USA > Virginia > A history of the valley of Virginia, 3rd ed > Part 33
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CAVES IN THE COUNTY OF JEFFERSON.
About seven or eight miles above Harpers-Ferry, on the west side of the Shenandoah, nearly opposite the Shannondale Springs, from a quarter to a half mile from the river, a limestone cave has been discovered, which contains several beautiful incrustations of stalac- tities formed from the filtration of the water.
Near Mecklenburg, (Shepherdstown), another cave has been found, out of which considerable quantities of hydraulic limestone is taken, and when calcined or reduced to lime, is found to make a cement, little of any inferior to plaster of paris. Out of this cave a concreted limestone was taken, which the author saw in the posses- sion of Dr. Boteler, of Sheperdstown, which at first view presents to the eye, in shape, a striking resemblance to that of a fish of consid- erable size. A smaller one was found at the same time, which has a strong resemblance to a mink. Several intelligent individuals were inclined to believe they were genuine putrifactions.
CAVES IN THE COUNTY OF FREDERICK.
In the County of Frederick are to be seen five or six of these caves. Zane's cave, now on the lands owned by the heirs of the late Maj. James Bean, is one described by the late Mr. Jefferson, in his "Notes on Virginia." This cave the author partially explored about eighteen months ago, but found it too fatiguing to pursue his examination to any extent. The natural beauty of this place has of late years been greatly injured from the smoke of the numerous pine torches used to light it. All the incrustations and spare are greatly darkened, giving the cave a. sombre and dull appearance. The au- thor was informed, on his visit to that place, that Major Bean, shortly before his death, cut out several of the spars, reduced them to lime, sprinkled it over some of his growing crops, and found that it produced all the effects of gypsum.
On the lands, late the residence of Capt. Edward McGuire, de- ceased, is another cave of some considerable extent ; but its incrus- tations and spars are of a muddy yellowish color, and not considered a very interesting curiosity.
Adjoining the lands of Mr. James Way, the former residence of the late Col. C. M. Thurston, an extensive cave of very singular and curious formation was discovered many years ago. On explor- ing it with the aid of a pocket compass, the needle was found run- ning to every part of it.
On the east side of the Shenandoah River, some two or three miles below Berry's Ferry, at the base of the Blue Ridge, a cave of
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considerable extent has been discovered, containing several curiosi- ties. About two miles below this cave on the same side of the river, is to be seen what was anciently called Redman's fishery. At the base of the rock a large subterraneous stream of water is discharged into the river. At the approach of winter myriads of fish make their way into the subterraneons stream, and take up their winter quarters. In the spring they returned in the river. By placing a fish-basket in the mouth of the cavern, great quanties of fine fresh- water fish are taken, both in the autumn and spring of the year. The author recollects being at this place upwards of fifty years ago, just after Mr. Redman had taken up his fish-basket, and can safely affirm, that he drew out of the water from two to three bushels of fish at a single haul.
On Crooked Run, near Bethel meeting-house, on the lands now owned by Mr. Stephen Grubb, is a limestone cave, which the author has more than once been in. It does not exceed one hundred yards in length, and is remarkable only for its production of saltpetre, and preserving fresh meats in hot weather.
The Panther Cave, on the north bank of Cedar Creek, owned by Major Isaac Hite, about a half or three-fourths of a mile west of the great highway from Winchester to Staunton, is a remarkable curi- osity. Nature here has formed a most beautiful and solid upright wall of a gray limestone rock, of about one hundred yards in length, near the west end of which is to be seen an elegant arch, of about sixty feet in front, ten or twelve feet high in the center, and ex- tending twenty-five or thirty feet under the body of the wall. There are two circular aperatures running into the body of the rock from the arch, one about twelve inches in diameter, the other some- what smaller. Whether these openings do or do not lead into large apartments or caverns in the body of the rock, is not and probably never will be known. Tradition relates that at the early settlement of the county this place was known to be the haunt and habitation of the panther, from which it derives its name.
We have two natural wells in this county ; one at what is called the Dry Marsh, a drain of the Opequon, about two miles east of the Creek, not more than a quarter of a mile north of the road leading from Winchester to Berryville. This natural well in dry seasons furnishes several contiguous families with water. It is formed by a natural circular opening in an apparently solid limestone rock. Its walls are undulating, and in times of dry seasons the water sinks some sixteen or eighteen feet below the surface, but at all times fur- nishes abundant supplies. In the winter, no matter how great the degree of cold, small fish are frequently drawn up with the water from the well. In times of freshets, the water rises above the sur- face, and discharges a most beautiful current for several weeks at a time. Tradition relates that this well was discovered at the first settlement of the neighborhood.
The other natural well is the one described by Mr. Jefferson.
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This natural curiosity first made its appearance on the breaking up of the hard winter of 1789-90. All the old people of our country doubtless recollect the great falls of snow and severity of this re- markable winter. The author was born, and lived with his father's family until he was about thirteen years of age, within one and-a- half miles of this natural well. The land at that period was owned by the late Fielding Lewis, of Fredericksburg, Va., but is now the property of the heirs of the late Mr. Thomas Castleman, in the neighborhood of Berryville. Nature had here formed a circular sink of a depth of some fourteen or fifteen feet, and fifty or sixty feet in diameter at the surface. In the spring of the year 1790, the earth at the bottom of this sink suddenly gave way and fell into the cavity below, forming a circular aperature about the ordinary cir- cumference of a common artificial well. It was soon discovered that a subterraneous stream of water passed under the bottom. There being no artificial or natural means to prevent the earth immediate- ly about the well from falling in, the aperature is greatly enlarged, forming a sloping bank, by which a man on foot can easily descend within eight or ten feet of the water. The current of water is quite perceptable to the eye. The whole depth of the cavity is thirty or thirty-five feet.
CAVES IN THE COUNTY OF SHENANDOAH.
Within two or three miles of Woodstock, on the lands of the late William Payne, Esq., is an extensive cavern, which it is said has never yet been explored to its termination. It contains many curi- ous incrustations, stalactities, &c. From the mouth of this cave a constant current of cold air is discharged, and the cavern is used by its owners as a place to preserve their fresh meats in the hottest sea- sons of the year.
On the east side of the South Fork of the Shenandoah River, three or four miles south of Front Royal, there are two caves but a short distance apart, which, like all other caves, contain beautiful curiosities. One of them many years ago was visited and explored by the late celebrated John Randolph, of Roanoke ; but the author has never been able to learn whether he committed to writing his observations upon it. One of its greatest curiosities is an excellent representation of the hatter's kettle.
Within about three miles northwest of Mt. Jackson, Shaffer's cave is situated. It has been explored about half a mile. It is not very remarkable for its production of natural curiosities. Tradition relates an amusing story in connection with it. A large human skeleton was many years ago found in this cavern, the skull bone of which a neighboring man had the curiosity to take to his dwelling house. This aroused the ghost of the dead man, who, not being pleased with the removal of his head, very soon appeared to the de- predator and harrassed him until he became glad to return the skull
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to its former habitation. The ghost then became appeased and ceased his visits. It is said there are many persons to his day in the neighborhood, who most religiously believe that the ghost did really and truly compel the offender to return his skull. The author saw in the possession of Dr. Witherall, of Mt. Jackson, one of the arm bones of the skeleton, that part extending from the shoulder to the elbow, which was remarkable for its thickness, but was not of very uncommon length. At that time he had not been visited by the ghost to demand his arm ; but perhaps he was not so tenacious of it as he was of his head.
In the County of Page, within about three miles of Luray, a cave, but little inferior to Weyer's cave, was some years ago dis- covered,a graphic description of which was written by W. A. Harris, Esq., and published in the Woodstock Sentinel of the Valley, and copied pretty generally throughout the Union.
EBBING AND FLOWING SPRINGS.
Pretty high up Cedar Creek there is a beautiful spring of clear mountain water, issuing from the western side of Little North Mountain, in a glen, which ebbs and flows twice in every twenty- four hours. It rises at ten o'clock in the morning, and ebbs at four in the evening. It is in a perfect state of nature, has considerable fall immediately from its mouth, so that it cannot conveniently be ascertained precisely what is its greatest rise and fall. When the author saw it it was down, and he could not conveniently spare the time to wait and see it rise. But the author's informant (Mr. J. Bond) went with him to the spring, and assured him that he had repeatedly seen it rise. The author is also informed that there is a salt sulphur spring on the land, late the property of Mr. John Lee, but a short distance from where the Staunton stage road crosses Cedar Creek, which has a dairy erected over it. The respectable widow of Mr. Lee informed the author that this spring ebbs and flows twice in every twenty-four hours, and that if care is not prop- erly taken at every flow, its current is so strong as to overset the vessels of milk placed in the water.
FALLING RUN.
Some thirteen or fourteen miles southwest of Winchester, and within about two miles of the residence of Moses Russell, Esq., in the County of Frederick, is to be seen what is called the Falling Run. Between what the neighboring people call Falling Ridge (the commencement of Paddy's Mountain) and the Great North Mountain, pretty near the summit, on the east side of the mountain, a fine large spring rises, forming a beautiful lively stream of suffi- cient force to work a grist mill. This stream pursues its serpentine course through a glen several hundred yards in width, of gradual
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descent, between the mountain and Falling Ridge. Pursuing its course in a northerly direction from its fountain, for about one and- a-half miles, it makes a pretty sudden turn to the east, and shoots over a solid granite rock probably not less than one hundred feet high. The first eighteen or twenty feet of the rock over which the water passes is a little sloping, over which the water spreads and covers a surface of fifteen or sixteen feet, from which the fall is en- tirely perpendicular, and strikes on a mass of solid rock ; it then forms an angle of forty-five degrees, rushing and foaming over an undulating surface of about ninety or one hundred feet ; from thence is a third fall of about the same length, and then pitches into a hole of considerable depth ; from thence it escapes down a more gradual descent, and suddenly becomes a gentle, sinooth, placid cur- rent, as if it is pleased to rest from the violent agitations and tur- moils through which it had just passed. At the first base reached by the water, a perpetual mist arises, which, viewed on a clear sun- shiny day, presents to the eye a most interesting and beautiful sight. The whole fall is little if any less than three hundred feet.
A short distance from the south of this place, at the junction of the Falling Ridge with the North Mountain, is to be seen what the neighboring people call "the Pinnacle." The apex of this pinacle is a flat, broad table, supported on a pivot, and can be set in motion by the hands of a man, and will continue to vibrate for several min- utes. There are several small caverns in this rock, and is known to be the abode of the turkey buzzards in the winter, where they remain in a state of torpitude. Mr. Russell informed the author that he once took out a torpid buzzard in the winter, laid it on the sunny side of the rock, and it very soon regained life and motion.
TROUT POND.
In the County of Hardy, about eight or nine miles south of the late residence of James Sterrett, Esq., deceased, and a little east of Thornbottom, is situated a most beautiful minature lake, called the Trout Pond. A large spring rises near the summit of the Great North Mountain, descending on the west side into a deep glen, be- tween the mountain and a very high ridge immediately east of Thornbottom, in which glen nature has formed a receptacle of un- known depth for this stream of water. This stream forms an area of about one and-a-half acres, nearly an oblong square. Nature never presented to the eye a more perfectly beautiful sheet of water. It is as transparent as crystal, and abounds with fine trout fish.
The late Col. Taverner Beale, upwards of forty years ago, de- scribed this place to the author, and stated that he could safely affirm that he believed he had seen ten thousand trout at a single view in this pond. Col. Beale also informed the author that him- self and a friend of his once made a raft, and floated to the center of
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the pond, where they let down a plumb and line, (the author does not now recollect the length of the line, though, it was certainly not less than forty feet, ) but did not succeed in reaching the bottom. A Mr. Gochenour, who resides near this place, informed the author that he had heard it was fathomed many years ago, and was found to be sixty feet deep, but did not know the certainty or truth of this report. The water is discharged at the north-east corner of the pond, and after descending about two miles, works a saw mill, and thirty or forty yards from the mill falls into a sink and entirely dis- appears. This sink is in the edge of Thornbottom, a pretty narrow strip of limestone land, which affords between the mountains a residence for four or five families, each of whom has a fine spring of water, all which, after running a short distance, also disappear. The stream of water from the pond, doubtless considerably increas- ed by the waters of Thornbottom, again appears at the northern termination of a very high ridge called "the Devil's garden." It bursts out in one of the largest springs the author has ever seen. It is said that this subterranean passage of the water is fully eight miles in length. This spring is within about one-quarter of a mile from Mt. Sterrett's dwelling-house, and forms a beautiful stream of water called Trout run, which is a valuable tributary of the Capon River.
" The Devil's Garden," is truly a wonderful work of nature. Between two lofty ridges of the Sandy Ridge and North Mountain a strip of ground about a mile in width, commences rising gently from the head of Trout Run, and pursued its regular ascent for three miles, when it abrutly terminates, at its southern extremity, in a vast pile of granite rocks, having a perpendicular height of some four or five hundred feet. This immense pile is entirely separated from and independent of its neighboring mountains, having a vast chasm on its two sides and southern termination. At its south end it is covered with nearly level rocks, forming a floor of about an acre. This floor is curiously marked with fissures on the surface of various distances apart. On the eastern side stands a statue, or perhaps it may more appropriately be called a bust, about seven feet high ; the head, neck and shoulders bear strong resemblance to those of a man, and from the breast downwards it gradually enlarges in size from two and-a-half to three feet in diameter. It is without arms. It stands on a level table of rock, is of a dark color, and presents to the eye a frowning terrific appearance. When this singular curiosi- ty was first discovered, some superstitious people concluded it was the image of the Devil ; and hence the name of " The Devil's Gar- den." Near his satanic majesty anciently stood a four-square stone pillar, about two and-a-half feet in diameter, and ten or twelve feet high. This pillar is broken off at its base, crosses a chasm, and reclines, something in the form of an arch against the oppo- site rock.
About one hundred feet below the stand of the statue, a door
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lets into the numerous caverns in the rock, the first of which forms a handsome room of moderate size, the floors above and below being tolerably smooth and level. From this room there is a handsome flight of stone steps ascending into a room of larger size, until twelve different apartments are passed through, and then reaches the top of the rocks. The late Mr. Sterrett, in riding with the author to view this extraordinary work of nature, said that it was difficult for an old man to get access to the inlet, of course I did not attempt it. Mr. Babb, who resides into its neighborhood, informed the author that he had frequently explored the cavern ; and the young people of the neighborhood, male and female, frequently, in parties of pleasure, visit and pass through its various apartments.
LOST RIVER.
Here again the eye is presented with another evidence of the all-powerful arm of God ! This river heads in several small springs, on a ridge of land on Brock's Gap, which divides the waters of the North Fork of the Shenandoah from the waters of the Lost River. This water courses mneanders through a beautiful valley of fine allu- vial land, a distance of about twenty-five miles. On the west side, some ten or twelve miles below its head spring, is a cavern at the eastern base of "Lost River Mountain," which has been explored about one hundred yards (some say more) from its mouth. Over the inlet is a handsomely turned arch twelve or fourteen feet wide, and six or seven high. From this cavern is discharged a stream of beautiful water, remarkable for its degree of coldness. It is called " the cold spring cave." The mouth of this cave effectually preserves fresh meats of every kind from injury in the hottest seasons. This cave exhibits but few curiosities.
Some ten or twelve miles further down, the river comes in con- tact with Lost River Mountain, (which is of considerable magni- tude), has cut its way through the mountain, and about two miles further down has to encounter a second mountain called Timber Ridge, through which it has forced its way, and one and-a-half or two miles further has to contend with Sandy Ridge, a mountain of considerable height and width. Here the water and mountain appear to have a mighty struggle for the ascendency. In flood times, Mrs. River, despising all obstructions, forces her way through a yawning, frowning chasm. But at times of low water, when her ladyship is less powerful, his giantship, the mountain, defies all her power to remove a large mass of adamantine rocks, which obstructs her pas- sage in the gap; but to remedy this evil, Mrs. Rivers has adroitly and cunningly undermined the mountain, formed for herself a sub- terraneous passage, and generously supplied her sister Capon with all the water she has to spare. It is impossible for the inquisitive eye to view this mighty work of nature without being struck with the idea of the great obstruction and mighty difficulty this water had
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to contend with in forcing a passage through this huge mountain. The author viewed this place with intense interest and curiosity. At the western base of the mountain, the water has found various aperatures, one of which is under the point of a rock, of seven or eight feet wide, which appears to be the largest inlet. For the dis- tance of about a quarter of a mile from the sink, not a drop of water is to be seen in times of drought. There are several large springs which issue from the mountain in the gap, forming a small stream, which always runs through it. The water of the river has a subterraneous passage of full three miles, and is discharged in several very large springs at the eastern base of the mountain. These several springs from the great fountain head of Capon River.
An old man and his son, (their names not recollected), whose dwelling is very near the sink, related a very singular occurrence which they represented as having happened a few days before the author's visit to this place. They stated that several dogs were in pursuit of a deer on the inountain, that the deer ran to the brink of a rock, at least one hundred feet high, which is very near the sink, and the poor animal being pretty closely pursued, leaped from the rock, and falling on a very rough, stony surface, was terribly crushed and bruised by the fall, and instantly expired. They im- mediately ran to it and opened the large veins in the neck, but little blood was discharged. They took off the skin and cut up the flesh ; but most parts of it were so much bruised and mangled as to be un- fit for use.
Capon River exhibits several great natural curiosities. Near its head waters is a rock called "The Alum Rock," from which exudes native alum, and forms a beautiful incrustation on its face, which the neighboring people collect in rather small quantities, but often sufficient for their domestic purposes of stain- ing their clothes.
About two miles above the Forks of this River is situated "Caudy's Castle," a most stupendous work of nature. It is said by tradition that in the time of the wars between the white and red people, a man by the name of James Caudy, more than once took shelter on the rock from the pursuit of the Indians, from whence its name. It consists of a fragment of the mountain, separated and in- dependent of the neighboring mountains, forming, as it were, a half cone, and surrounded with a yawning chasm. Its eastern base, washed by the Capon River, rises to the majestic height of four hun- dred and fifty to five hundred feet, while its eastern side is a solid mass of granite, directly perpendicular. A line drawn round its base probably would not exceed one thousand or twelve hundred yards. From its western side it may be ascended by man on foot to within about ninety or one hundred feet of its summit. From thence the rock suddenly shoots up something in the form of a comb, which is about ninety or one hundred feet in length, eight or ten feet in thickness, and runs about north and south. On the eastern face of
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the rock, from where the comb is approached, a very narrow undu- lating path is formed, by pursuing which, active persons can ascend to its summit. The author called on Mr. John Largent, (from whom he received much kindness and attention) and requested Mr. Largent to be his pilot, which request was readily acceded to. Mr. Largent's residence is less than a half a mile from the spot. In his company the author undertook to ascend this awful precipice. Along the path a few laurel shrubs have grown out of the fissures of the rock. With the aid of the shrubbery, the author succeeded in following Mr Largent until they reached within twenty or twenty- five feet of the summit, where they found a flat table, four or five feet square, on which a pine tree of five or six inches in diameter has grown some ten or twelve feet high. This afforded a convenient resting place. By supporting myself with one arm around the body of the tree, and a cane in the other hand, I ventured several times to look down the precipice, but it produced a disagreeable giddiness and painful sensation of the eyes. From this elevated situation an extensive view of what is called the White Mountain presents it- self for a considerable distance, on the east side of Capon River. The beautiful whiteness of this mountain is produced by a consider- able intermixture of fine white sand with rocks, which almost exclusively form the west side of the Capon Mountain for several miles.
Nine or ten miles below this place, in a deep rugged glen three or four miles east of Capon, on the west side of the mountain, the "Tea Table" is to be seen, than which nature in her most sportive mood has seldom performed a more beautiful work. This table pre- sents the form of a man's hat, with the crown turned downwards. The stem (if it may be so termed) is about four feet in diameter and about four feet high. An oval brim, some seven or eight feet in diameter, and seven or eight inches thick, is formed around the top of the stem, through which a circular tube rises twelve or fourteen inches in diameter. Through this tube a beautiful streanı of transparent water arises, and regularly flows over the whole surface of this large brim, presenting to the eye one of the most beautiful fountains in nature's work.
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