USA > Virginia > A history of the valley of Virginia, 3rd ed > Part 34
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ICE MOUNTAIN.
This most extraordinary and wonderful work of God's creation certainly deserves the highest rank in the history of the natural curi- osities of our country. This mountain is washed at its western base by the North River, a branch of the Capon. It is not more than a quarter of a mile north of the residence of Christopher Heiskell, Esq., at North River Mills, in the County of Hampshire, twenty- six miles northwest of Winchester. The west side of this mountain, for about one mile, is covered with loose stone of various size, many of which are of a diamond shape. It is probably six or seven hun-
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dred feet high, very steep, and presents to the eye a most grand and sublime spectacle.
At the base of the mountain, on the western side, for a distance of about one hundred yards, and ascending some twenty-five or thirty feet, on removing the loose stone, which is easily done with a small prise, the most perfectly pure and crystal looking ice, at all sea- sons of the year, is to be found, in blocks from one or two pounds to fifteen or twenty in weight. * At the base of this bed of ice a beau- ful spring of pure water is discharged, which is by many degrees colder than any natural spring water the author has ever seen. It is believed that its natural temperature is not many degree sabove freezing. Near this spring the owner of the property has removed the stone, and erected a small log dairy, for the preservation of his milk, butter and fresh meats. When the author saw this little building, which was late in the month of April, thie openings between the logs (on the side next the cavity from which the stone had been taken out), for eighteen inches or two feet from the floor was completely filled with ice, and above, one-half the floor was covered with ice several inches thick. This is the most remarkable from its being a known fact that the sun shines with all its force from eight or nine o'clock in the morning until late in the evening, on the surface cov- ering the ice, but the latter defies its power. Mr. Deevers, who is the owner of the property, informed the author that milk, butter, or fresh meats of every kind, are perfectly safe from injury for almost any length of time in the hottest weather. If a fly ventured in, he is immediately stiffened with the cold and becomes torpid, If a snake in his rambles happens to pass over the rocks covering the ice, he soon looses all his motion, and dies. Christopher Heiskell, Esq., informed the author that several instances had occurred of the snakes being found dead among the rocks covering the ice. An intelligent young lady at the same time stated that she had seen instances of this character. In, truth it was upon her first suggesting the fact, that the author was led to make inquiry of Mr. Heiskill. Mr. Deevers stated that he had several times removed torpid flies from his dairy into a more temperate atmosphere, when they soon recov- ered life and motion and flew off.
Nature certainly never formed a better situation for a fine dairy establishment. But it will probably be asked by some persons, where is the milk to come from to furnish it? The time will proba- bly come, and perhaps it is not very distant, when our mountains
* The neighboring people assert, that at the setting in of the winter sea- son, the ice commences melting, and soon disappears, not a particle of which is to be found while the winter remains. If this be true, it renders this place still more remarkable and extraordinary. The order of nature, in this immediate locality, seems to be reversed ; for, when it is summer all around this singular spot, here it is covered with the ice of winter, and vice versa. We cannot account for this effect, except the cause be some chemi- cal laboratory under the surface, operating from the influence of the extern- al atmosphere, but in opposition to it.
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will be turned to good account. 'Their sources of wealth are not yet known ; but the spirit of enterprise and industry is abroad, and the present generation will hardly pass away before most astonishing changes will be seen in every part of our happy country.
THE HANGING ROCKS.
These, or, as they are sometimes called, "Blue's Rocks," are another wonderful work of nature. They are situated on the Wap- patomaka, about four miles north of Romney, the seat of justice for the County of Hampshire. The author has several times viewed this place with excited feelings and admiration. The river has cut its way through a mountain probably not less than five hundred feet high. By what extraordinary agency it has been able to do this, it is impossible to conceive, unless we look to that almighty power whose arm effects all liis great objects at pleasure. On the east of the river is a huge mass of rocks which forms a perpendicular wall several yards in length, and not less than three hundred feet high. The opposite point of the mountain is more sloping, and may be ascended by a man on foot. On the top of the mountain is a level bench of land, pretty clear of stone, and fine rich soil, upwards of one hun- dred yards in width ; but, from the difficulty of approaching it, it remains in a state of nature. It would, if it could be brought into cultivation, doubtless well reward the husbandman for his labors.
The public road, leading from Romney into the great western1 highway, passes between the margin of the river and the great natural wall formed by the rocks. The center of the rocks for about eighty or one hundred yards, is composed of fine gray limestone, while on each side are the common granite mountain stone.
The reader will recollect that this is the place where a most bloody battle was fought between contending parties of the Ca- tawba and Delaware Indians, noticed in a preceding chapter of this volume.
One other natural curiosity remains to be noticed, and that is, what is called the "Butterfly Rocks." These rocks are to be seen in Fry's Cap, on Cedar Creek, in the County of Frederick. The whole mass of rocks are intermixed with petrified flies, of various sizes. The entire shape of the wings, body, legs, head, and even the eyes of the flies, are distinctly to be discovered. The rocks are of deep brown color, and of the slate species.
The author will conclude this section with a brief notice of an avalanche or mountain slide, which he has omitted to notice in its proper place. In the month of June, in the remarkable wet spring and summer of the year 1804, during a most tremendous and awful flood of rain, near the summit of the Little North Mountain, a vast volume of water suddenly gushed from the eastern side, and rapidly descending, with its tremendous current, tore away every tree, of whatever size, rocks of eight or ten tons weight, hurling them into
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the level lands below, and threatening desolation and destruction to everything which was within the limits of the vortex. In its pas- sage down the mountain it opened a chasm from ten to fifteen yards in width, and from eiglit or ten to twelve or fifteen feet in depth. The farm of Mr. David Funkhouser, which the flood took in its course, was greatly injured, and a beautiful meadow covered over with the wood, stone, and other rubbish. The flood ran into the lower floor of his dwelling-house, the foundation of which is elevat- ed at least three feet above the surface of the ground. This rent in the side of the mountain, at the distance of five or six miles, pre- sented for many years the appearance of a very wide road. It is now grown up thickly with young pine timber, and so crowded that there is scarcely room for a man to pass between them.
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CHAPTER III.
MEDICINAL SPRINGS-WATERING PLACES.
Our country abounds in medicinal waters. Numerous Sulphur Springs exist, particularly in the slate lands and mountains. Springs, of various qualities of water, are also to be seen, several of which are remarkable for their superior virtues in the cure of the various disorders of the human body.
It is not within the plan of this work to notice all the medicinal springs which the author has seen and heard of. He will content himself with a brief account of those deemed most valuable, begin- ning with Bath in the County of Morgan.
This is doubtless the most ancient watering place in the Valley. Tradition relates that those springs were known to the Indians as possessing valuable medical properties, and were much frequented by them. They were anciently called the " Berkeley Warm Springs," and have always kept their character for their medical virtues. They are much resorted to, not only for their value as medical waters, but as a place (in the season) of recreation and pleasure. Bath has be- come a considerable village, is the seat of justice for Morgan coun- ty, and nas several stores and boarding houses. It is too publicly known to require further notice in this work.
SHANNONDALE.
It is not more than twelve or fourteen years since this spring was first resorted to as a watering place, though it was known for some years before to possess some peculiar medicinal qualities. A few extraordinary cures were effected by the use of the water, of ob- stinate scorbutic complaints, and it suddenly acquired a high repu- tation. A company of gentlemen in its neighborhood joined and purchased the site, and forthwith erected a large brick boarding- house, and ten or twelve small buildings for the accommodation of visitors. For several years it held a high rank among our water- ing places.
SALUS SPRINGS, COMMONLY CALLED BOND'S SPRINGS.
These are situated between the Little North Mountain and Paddy's Mountain, forming the head fountain of Cedar Creek, and
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about twenty-eight or thirty miles southwest of Winchester, and seven or eight miles northwest of Woodstock. These springs are acquiring a high character for their valuable medical qualities, though it is only four or five years since they have been resorted to. It is well ascertained that the water from at least one of them has the powerful quality of expelling the bots from the horse.
Another of the springs is called " Tlie Poison Spring," and it is asserted by the people of the neighborhood that by drinking the water freely, and bathing the part wounded, it will immediately cure the bite of any poisonous snake.
There are five or six beautiful transparent springs within a cir- cumference of one hundred and fifty or two hundred yards, several of which are yet unimproved. Nature has seldom done more for an advantageous watering-place than she has exhibited at these springs. No place the author has ever seen presents more conveniences for the construction of baths. One of the springs is discharged from an ele- vated point of a ridge, and has fall and water enough to construct any reasonable number of shower baths. It is asserted by those who attend the springs, that several great cures of obstinate scor- butic complaints have been made by the use of the water. One remarkable instance was related to the author. A little boy, of eight or nine years of age, had become dreadfully disordered by eruptions all over his body, which formed large running ulcers. The complaint baffled all the efforts of the most skillful physicians in the neighborhood, and continued for about twelve months, when the child's life was dispaired of. An uncle of the child, who was acquainted with the valuable quality of these waters, took him to the springs, and by repeatedly washing his body with the water of the poison spring, and also has freely drinking it, in ten or twelve days the child was perfectly cured, and has ever since remained in fine health. Within one and-a-quarter miles from this place there is a fine white sulphur spring, which is said to possess very active cathartic qualities. It is also said that the water has a sweetish taste, and is by some called the sweet sulphur spring. The water has a pure crystal look, and is discharged from a spring at the base of Paddy's Mountain. Plunging baths may be multiplied at pleas- ure. The waters are pretty cool ; a handsome bath-house is erected, and the visitors use it freely.
Sixteen neat looking dwelling-houses have been erected by as many proprietors within the last four or five years ; but unfortun- ately there is no regular boarding-house established, which has here- tofore prevented much resort to this place. In the hands of a man of capital and enterprise, it doubtless might be made one of the most charming rural summer retreats west of the Blue Ridge. It has the advantage of a most beautiful summer road much the greater part of the whole route from Winchester ; what is called Frye's Gap, within twelve miles of Winchester, being by far the worst part of it ; and an excellent road can be made at inconsiderable expense
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across the Little North Mountain. Travelers passing up and down the Valley, would in the summer season find this a delightful rest- ing place, if it was put in a proper state of improvement for their accommodation, nor is it more than seven or eight miles out of the direct road. The present buildings are arranged so as to leave in the center a beautiful grove of young oak and other timber, which af- fords a lovely shade in hot weather. Near Capt. J. Bond's dwelling- house, within three hundred yards of the mineral springs, there is fine large limestone spring.
ORKNEY SPRINGS, COMMONLY CALLED YELLOW SPRINGS.
These Springs are near the head waters of Stony Creek, about seventeen or eighteen miles southwest of Woodstock. The waters are composed of several lively springs, are strong chalybeate, and probably impregnated with some other mineral besides iron. Every thing the water passes through or over is beautifully lined with a bright yellow fringe of moss. The use of this water is found very beneficial for the cure of several complaints. There are ten or twelve small buildings erected by the neighboring people for their private accommodation.
The author visited this watering place about four years ago. A Mr. Kaufman had brought with him, the day preceding, the material for a small framed dwelling-house. He reached the place early in the day, raised his house, and the shingles and weatherboarding nailed on, the floor laid, and doors hung, and ate his dinner in it the next day at one o'clock. The author had the pleasure of dining with the old gentlemen and lady, when they both communicated the foregoing statement of facts to him. A free use of this water acts as a most powerful cathartic, as does also a small quantity of the fringe or moss mixed with any other kind of water.
CAPON SPRINGS, MORE PROPERLY FRYE'S SPRINGS.
The late Henry Frye, of Capon, upwards of forty years ago, informed the author that he was the first discoverer of the valuable properties of this celebrated watering place. He stated that he was hunting, and killed a large bear on the side of the mountain near the springs, and becoming dry, he descended the glen in search of water, where he found a large spring, but it was thickly covered with moss and other rubbage; on removing which, he drank of the water, and found it disagreeably warm. It at once occurred that it possessed some valuable medical qualities. The next summer his wife got into bad health, and was afflicted with rheumatic and probably otlier de- bilitating disorders. He went and cleared out the spring, erected a small cabin, removed his wife there, and remained four or five weeks, when the use of the waters had restored his wife to a state
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of fine health. From this occurrence it took the name of "Frye's Springs," and was called by that name for many years. By what whim or caprice the name was changed to that of "Capon," the author cannot explain. It is situated four miles east of Capon River, and with what propriety it has taken the name of that River, the reader can as readily determine as the author. This place is too publicly known to require a minute description in this work ; suffice it to say, that it is located in a deep narrow glen, on the west side of the Great North Mountain. The road across the mountain is rugged and disagreeable to travel, but money is now raising by lot- tery to improve it. The trustees for several years past have imposed a pretty heavy tax upon visitors for the use of the waters. This tax is intended to raise funds for keeping the baths, &c., in repair. There are seventeen or eighteen houses erected without much regard to regularity, and a boarding establishment capable of accommodating some fifty or sixty visitors, which is kept in ex- cellent style.
The waters at this place are a few degrees cooler than the waters of Bath ; but it is believed by many that they possess some qualities far more powerful. There is no fact better known, than that exclusive use of the water for five or six days, (like the waters of Salus), will expel the bots from horses. The place is twenty-two miles southwest of Winchester.
WHITE SULPHUR SPRING, HOWARD'S LICK.
This fine White Sulphur Spring lies about four miles west of Lost River, in a most romantic retired glen in the mountains. It is almost wholly in a state of nature, the nearest dwelling-house to it being about two miles, and is but little known and resorted to as a watering place. The spring has been cleaned out, and a small cri- cular wall placed around it, and a beautiful lively stream of water discharged. It would probably require a tube of one and-a-half inches diameter to vent the water. Every thing the water passes over or touches is pretty thickly incrusted with pure white sulphur. The water is highly impregnated as to be quite unpleasant to the taste, and can be smelled thirty or forty feet from the spring. The use of the water is found very efficacious in several complaints, par- ticularly in autumnal bilious fevers. The people in the neighbor- hood say, that persons attacked with bilious complaints, by a single dose of Epsom Salts, worked off with this water, in three or four days are entirely relieved and restored to health. The author can- not pretend to express his own opinion of the valuable properties of this water, merely having seen it as a transient passenger. But he has no hesitation in saying that it presents to the eye the appearance of by far the most valuable sulphur water he has ever yet seen. There is level land enongh around it for the erection of buildings sufficient for the accommodation of a great many visitors. A fine
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and convenient road can be had to it from Lost River, a gap in the mountain leading to it being generally quite level, and wide enough for the purpose. It is probably twenty-three or twenty-four miles southwest of Capon Springs.
PADDY'S GAP, OR MAURER'S WHITE SULPHUR SPRING.
This is a small pure White Sulphur Spring, and is said to pos- sess valuable medicinal qualities, It lies in Paddy's Gap, about half way between Capon and Salus Springs.
PEMBROKE SPRINGS.
These are situated about one mile south of the residence of Moses Russell, Esq., seventeen miles northwest of Winchester. The water are considered too cool to bathe in. A bath house has been erected, but it is little used. The waters are pure and salubrious, discharged from the base of the North Mountain, and if good accom- modations were kept, it would doubtless become a resting place for travelers in the season for visiting the Capon Springs. Mr. George Ritenour has lately erected a tannery at this place, and it will proba- bly become a place of business.
WILLIAMS'S WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS, FORMERLY DUVALL.
These are situated about six miles northeast of Winchester. A commodious boarding-house has been erected by Mr. Williams, who is going on yearly with additional improvement, to meet the increas- ing popularity of the establishment.
There are three or four other sulphur springs which were forni- erly places of considerable resort, but they have fallen into disre- pute. The author therefore considers it unnecessary to give them any particular notice in this work. Many chalybeate springs are to be met with in our mountains, but it is not deemed necessary to describe them.
GRAY EARTH.
The author will conclude with a brief notice of a light gray earth of singular texture, and probably containing some highly valuable properties. A considerable bank of this earth or clay is to be seen about two miles below Salus Springs. When dissolved in water it makes a beautiful whitewash, and is said to be more adhe- sive than lime. It is remarkably soft, being easily cut with a knife, has an unctuous or rather soapy feel when pressed between the fing- ers, and when mixed with a small quantity of water, forms a tough adhesive consistence, very much resembling dough made of wheat flour.
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The author, when he first heard of this bank of earth, conclud- ed it was probably Fuller's Earth, so highly prized by the manufac- turers of cloth, &c., in England ; but upon an examination of it, it does not appear to answer the description given by chemists of that earth. It is highly probable that it would be found a most valuable manure, and in all likelihood would on trial make a beautiful ware of the pottery kind for domestic use. It would in the opinion of the writer, be well worth while for manufactures and others to visit this place, and examine for themselves. The author has 110 preten- sions to a knowledge of chemistry, and therefore cannot give any- thing like an analytical description of the singular and curious kind of earth.
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CHAPTER IV.
DESCRIPTION OF WEYER'S CAVE.
BY R. L. COOKE, A. M.
Weyer's Cave is situated near the northern extremity of Augus- ta county, Va., seventeen miles northeast of Staunton, on the east- ern side of the ridge running nearly north and east parallel to the Blue Ridge, and some what more than two miles distant from it.
The western declivity of this ridge is very gradual, and the visi- tor, as he approaches from the direction, little imagines from its ap- pearance that it embowels one of Nature's masterpieces. The eastern declivity, however, is quite precipitous and difficult of ascent.
The Guide's house is situated on the northern extremity of this ridge, and is distant eight hundred yards from the mouth of the Cave. In going from the house to the Cave, you pass the en- trance of Madison's Cave, which is two hundred and twenty yards from the other. Madison's Cave was known and visited as a curi- osity, long before the discovery of Weyer's, but it is now passed by and neglected, as unworthy of notice, compared with its more in- posing rival, although it had had the pen of a Jefferson of describe its beauties.
Let me remark here, that the incurious visitor, who goes because others go, and is but slightly interested in the mysteries of Nature, may retain his usual dress when he enters the Cave which I am at- tempting to describe ; but if he is desirous of prying into every re- cess, climbing every accessible precipice, and seeing all the beauties of this subterranean wonder, I would advise him to provide himself with such habiliments as will withstand craggy projections, or re- ceive no detriment from a generous coating of mud.
The ascent from the bottom of the hill to the mouth of the Cave is steep, but is rendered less fatiguing, by the zigzag course of the path, which is one hundred yards in length.
Before entering the Cave, let us rest ourselves on the benches before the door, that we may become perfectly cool, while the Guide unlocks the door, strikes a light and tells the story of its first discovery.
It seems that about the year 1804, one Bernard Weyer ranged these hill as a hunter. While pursuing his daily vocation, he found
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his match in a lawless Ground Hog, which not only eluded all his efforts, but eventually succeeded in carrying off the traps which had been set for his capture. Enraged at the loss of his traps he made an assault upon the domicil of the depredator, with spade and mattock.
A few moments labor brought him to the ante-chamber of this stupenduous Cavern, where he found his traps safely deposited.
The entrance originally was small and difficult of access ; but the enterprise of the proprietor has obviated these inconveniences ; it is now enclosed by a wooden wall, having a door in the center, which admits you to the Ante-Chamber.
At first it is about eight feet in height, but after proceeding a few yards, in a S. W. direction, it becomes contracted to the space of three or four feet square.
At the distance of twenty-four feet from the entrance, descend- ing at an angle of nineteen degrees, you reach the Dragon's Room, so called from a stalactitic concretion, which the nomenclator un- doubtedly supposed to resemble that nondescript animal.
Above the Dragon's Room there is an opening of considerable beauty, but of small size, called the Devil's Gallery.
Leaving this room, which is not very interesting, you proceed in a more southerly direction, to the entrance of Solomon's Temple, through a high but narrow passage, sixty-six feet in length, which is by no means difficult of access. Here you make a perpendicular descent of thirteen feet, by means of an artificial bank of earth and rock, and you find yourself into one of the finest rooms in the whole cave. It is irregular in shape, being thirty feet long and forty-five broad, running at nearly right angles to the main course of the cave. As you raise you eyes, after descending the bank before mentioned, they rest upon an elevated seat, surrounded by sparry incrustations, which sparkle beautifully in the light of your candles.
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