USA > Virginia > Albemarle County > Albemarle County > Albemarle County (Virginia) A hand book giving a description of its topography, climate, geology, minerals, fruits, plants, history, educational, agricultural and manufacturing advantages, and inducements the county offers the industrious and intelligent farmer and manufacturer > Part 5
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This Phylloxera louse abounds with our native grapes, and consequently those now in existence are those whose consti- tution was strong enough to survive its ravages; all others
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have disappeared. This pest, together with a tenderness of foliage of the "Vinifera" not adapted to the climate of the United States east of the Rocky Mountains, save in New Mexico and portions of Texas, was the cause of continuous early failure of grape culture.
It was not till in the forties, that Nicholas Longworth, of Ohio, conceived the idea that this should be a wine-producing country, and to make it so, the native stock must be taken as a basis. This he encouraged most generously, searching for all favorable varieties. Developing the better, discarding the inferior. The Catawba was obtained from North Carolina, and is about the only one of that date still largely grown. A host of grapes then used have been cast aside and substituted by new varieties with better properties, either for table or cellar use. With proper cellars and vignerons he made wines in Cincinnati, Ohio, on a large scale, which subsequently resulted in grape-culture about Lake Erie, and extended throughout the country.
NATIVE GRAPES .- Thus started, this new industry, with varying success, but steadily advancing, by the erection of proper cellars throughout Lake Erie region, in Ohio, Lake Cayuga, and other places in western New York, up to 1865, when domestic (American) wines demanded some attention from the wine dealers of the country.
To the grape nurserymen in the United States from that day to this, too much praise cannot be awarded. Looking, it is true, to gain, they studied this most fascinating subject with a true devotion, as humble citizens, wholly unknown in the annals of grape-culture in Europe. Experimenting on the traditional system that the "Vinifera" (European grape) was a sine qua non for wines ; they adopted a system of hybridizing to obtain strength from the native, and quality from the Asiatic descendant. The result is, that most of these experi- mentors enjoyed a life of delightful anticipation, devoid of realized funds, for the substantial comforts of life. Others similarly fascinated, continue in the course yet, abandoning the Vinifera mixture, devoting themselves to the improvements
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of intermixed stock. Though delighted in his day (30 years ago), Mr. Longworth would be amazed at the present results of his initiatory movement on behalf of native grapes. With the exception of his Catawba-immortalized by the melodious verse of our genial poet, Longfellow-his then best varieties have been discarded for other standard native grapes, number- ing now over 400 varieties. New kinds are in vogue, produc- ing wines, giving satisfaction to the true European connoisseur.
This vast variety of our native developed stock is not all adapted to the same or any one section, however perfect they may be in some given locality. This but corroborates the grape history of Europe, where the removal of a given variety to a different section or country results either in a total failure, or such modification in the properties of the grape as to make it practically a different fruit, the result of climatic influence : for example, the grape of Burgundy transferred to Bordeaux yields no more a true Burgundy wine.
ALBEMARLE GRAPES .- With Thos. Jefferson's failure with his Vinifera as above stated, Albemarle county in the produc- tion of tobacco for transport, and raising corn and cereals to feed the negro slave, ceased to think of grape-culture. With the exception of a few scattered vines about country gardens, grapes were ignored, although its woods abounded with varie- ties of the Vitis Æstivalis, now recognized as the leading characteristic wine grape of the continent. Prior to this, the country gentry affecting style, followed their English ancestry, drinking at their homes, Port, Sherry and Madeira wines (so called). Later this habit decreased and the native Apple Jack, distilled from fine home-grown apples, and whiskey, usurped the place of wines entirely.
THE WAR .- With the little " sectional unpleasantness of 1861-'65," grapes were unthought of. Grapes and their pro- duct, wine, are reverently spoken of in the Bible as symbols of contentment, peace and social happiness. This unpleas- antness between the sections of the union promoted neither of these triad conditions. Self-preservation, simple existence in barbaric aspect was the utmost of our efforts.
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AFTER THE WAR .- Albemarle county had escaped the actual horrors of a battle field, but bordering on these, it became the hospital and nursery for the wounded and dying, the sepulchre for the dead, the granary for the fighting sol- dier. The actual clash of arms ceased in 1865-the laborers are freed and rioting in unknown realms of so-called liberty. This was recognized property now confiscated by the conquer- ing section. It means poverty and bankruptcy to the former master. With lands taxable and no labor ; farming imple-, ments, working stock, cattle all devoured in the past four years of civil strife and no money, the people are at a loss how to produce means for existence.
The superabundant lands alone are a burden; they are offered for sale at any sacrifice. This induces many from the Northern States and Europe to purchase and make their homes in this invigorating climate. Amongst these are Mr. W. Hotopp, purchasing "Pen Park" farm near Charlottes- ville, once the home of William Wirt, an orator and Attorney General of the United States.
GRAPE CULTURE .- Mr. Hotopp (at the suggestion of an old Swiss, Sol. Seiler, who had lived here for long years before, and who knew something of viticulture from his native land, followed up here by garden grapes with a Frenchman, Mr. Alphonse, a teacher of gymnastics at the University of Vir- ginia) conceived the idea that grape-culture would pay here as an industry. In 1866-'67, Mr. Hotopp planted out some grapes, with a view to shipping them, for table use to some of the Northern cities. Not having studied nor being familiar with the subject, he planted indiscriminately different kinds, with Concord grapes in the lead. Fine luscious grapes in abundance was the result, and prices from shipping were more than satisfactory. Here was a new product of agriculture brought to light! Eagerly grasping for something more re- munerative than corn, wheat, oats and tobacco, several Ger- mans, who had settled here, planted vineyards, and some of the old settlers pulled out of the ruts of antiquarian tradi- tions and embarked in this new pursuit. It grew successfully
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from year to year, until now it is estimated there are over 2,500 acres in vines within the county limits.
PLANTING .- Climatically we occupy the latitude and cli- matic conditions of some of the most favored vine countries in Europe. The season is ample for perfect maturation of the best wine grapes, exempt from serious spring. frosts and early frosts in autumn, with no excess of rainfall in the months of April, May and June, nor in the maturing months of July, August and September, seldom suffering from extended hail storms, a clear sky and dry atmosphere. The conditions pri- marily essential for successful grape-culture in perfection are combined here. The fact that the grape abhors wet, as Virgil taught, and still holds true, therefore a hillside is preferred to a low, flat location. The soil should be dry, calcareous loam, loose and friable, to facilitate self-drainage. Wherever there are any disintegrading rocks, that will be an advantage as a gradual feeder and mulch. Fresh lands preferable to those long cultivated.
Trenching is the mode advocated for planting in France and Germany. With the expense and scarcity of lands, and cheap labor there, that may hold good-not so here. Plow deep and thoroughly, following with subsoiler to make perfect. Then land perfectly loosened and deeply plowed to eighteen or twenty inches, is preferable ; the plants should be put out in the fall of the year, any time before a severe freeze. Spring planting is preferred by some, and often with equally good results ; yet with ampler time in the fall and perfect settling of soil, fixing the rootlets when spring opens, the fall is deemed to be the best time as a rule. Planting should be in rows from eight to ten feet wide, and the plants from six to ten feet apart in the row, depending on the kind and its habit of growth. Small growing ones like Delaware may be planted 6 x 8, the Concord and Ives 8 x 8, but such as the Norton and Cynthiana should not be nearer than 10 X IO.
The number required for an acre at above named distances would be 8 x 6, 907 ; 8 x 8, 680; and 10 x 10, 435. The plants should be first-class year old. Their cost will vary much as
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to kinds, times and places-from $20 to $75 per thousand prevails with regular nurseries. The first year the land is to be cultivated and kept clean, letting the young plants throw out one or two good shoots, no more. The second year this is repeated, cutting back to two eyes. Posts not smaller than 4 x 4 inches and 7 feet high, should be put in 2 feet this early summer, 20 feet apart, and one wire No. 12 stretched, to which the plant should be fastened taut, 2 feet above ground, to form a permanent stock, letting two branches grow above the wire to bear the fruit. The third year these two branches above the wire should be pruned back to four or five eyes on each side, and tied in a bowed position at the stem and extremity. An- other or two other wires should be stretched, to which the summer growth is fastened during early summer, and the land cultivated and kept clean. Some do not bear fruit until the fourth year, and it is thought preferable that none should be permitted to bear much, if any fruit, until the fourth year.
The cost of all this up to fourth year bearing, outside the land, should be from $50 to $125 per acre, depending on many surroundings and circumstances.
WHAT TO PLANT .- A difficult question. No locality will suit all grapes. A slight variation in soil, exposure, &c., at but small intervals in space, adapts one kind of grape to a given spot, when two miles away this grape would not do so well, but another much better.
The natural and ultimate destination of the grape is the wine vat, yet there are varieties popular and profitable, to a certain extent, for shipping. These should be attractive either to the eye or the palate, when perfect, combining both prop- erties. The light-colored grapes excel in this respect. Of the large number of these now recognized as superior in quality, the finely pink-tinted, transparent Delaware has held the highest place in the New York market, for consecutive years, in price excelling the much larger bunched fine grapes of California. Of these, it must be borne in mind, that either the table market becomes glutted or there are a number of imperfect bunches which, if not put into the wine vat, are lost,
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and materially affects the profit derived. This county abound- ing, as it does, in a large admixture of iron in its soil, seems peculiarly adapted to highest perfection of red wine-grapes. This peculiarity is noted in the most favored claret-producing vineyards in France, the land of the finest light clarets. Many of the Labrusca species, such as, notably Concord and Ives, prevail here, making a good, sound, palatable wine. But the Astivalis are unquestionably the finest native wine grapes in America. The Norton's Virginia (miscalled seedling) origi- nated at Cedar Island, in James River, above Richmond city, and comes to the highest perfection in Virginia. Dense in color, abounding in tannin, it makes a characteristic wine of a heavy Burgundy nature. The Cynthiana, first brought from Arkansas, is so similar to the Norton that the two cannot be distinguished in foliage, seed or growth. It is claimed to make a finer wine, though that is questionable. The maturity of grapes for eating purposes opens generally about the first week in August, and for wine purposes they are gathered throughout September until as late as October tenth. When healthy and properly cultivated they yield a profit far exceed- ing that of any other agricultural product, when sold to the wine makers here at from $30 to $80 per ton delivered, while the finer table varieties pay still more, to the extent they can be shipped to the larger cities, all in easy reach by the diverg- ing railways intersecting at Charlottesville.
Although free from the effects of the scourge of Phylloxera devastating the fields of Europe, and the pourridie, a root rot, now making serious inroads on the Vitis in California, the grape is not exempt from all diseases. The black rot and mildew have of late years greatly affected the industry. These are two different though somewhat similar fungi. The mil- dew, long known in France, was there treated with considera- ble success by the application of sulphur. More recently the spraying of a liquid mixture of sulphate of copper, mixed either with lime or liquid ammonia, on the foliage has proved a perfect cure against this defoliaging fungus. Two years ago the black rot also made its appearance in France, and the gov-
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ernment, with its vigilant protection of agriculture in all its branches, is seeking for a remedy. None has yet been offici- ally reported. From present appearances (August, 1888) in a few of the local vineyards it is thought that the above named French mildew application is a promising preventive of the rot also, when spraying is early commenced and repeated at short intervals, May it not be that these two forms of fungi are so closely allied that the death of one affects the other, and a steady fight may gradually destroy them both ?
Oscar Reierson.
The Wine-Making Industry.
INE," means the fermented grape juice. Unfermented wines do not exist any more than undistilled brandy.
It has been in use in all ages and with all peoples of the globe, furnishing the elements of healthy stimulation, de- manded by the human race in some form, as we learn from the most ancient records and can observe at the present time.
Wines are to be divided into white and red, as to color, and dry and sweet as to their taste or sugar contents.
Except for family use (and they more properly cordials than wine) no mercantile wines were produced in this county till about 1870-1, when Mr. Hotopp utilized his common house- cellar for converting his cultivated grapes, not shipped for table-use, into dry wines-red and white. As grape-culture extended, the late W. W. Minor, Sr., and Oscar Rierson pro- cured casks, press, &c., and made their grapes into wine, in an ordinary house-cellar, at Charlottesville. The two latter gen- tlement then procured the cooperation of other fruit-growers and formed the Monticello Wine Company, which was char- tered in May, 1873. A good building was erected and properly furnished with all the necessary apparatus for the work, and placed under the charge of Mr. A. Russow. This structure, with its entire contents, was destroyed in 1881. It was re- placed in 1882 by a larger and more perfectly equipped build-
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ing, four stories in height, 44 x 100 feet inside measurement. The vaults of this building are fire-proof, and it is furnished with the best and latest appliances for the economic production and preservation of wines and brandy.
This, with the now large wine cellar of Mr. Hotopp, to- gether with a few smaller establishments, furnish, at all times, a safe and sure home market for the grapes raised in this and adjoining counties.
The products of these cellars are of the highest excellence, and if they were allowed to acquire the "bouquet," that age alone can give, they would stand comparison with some of the noted wines of Europe. As it is, they are far superior to the average wine placed on the market.
From the four to six thousand gallons produced by the Monticello Wine Company and Hotopp in 1873-4, the pro- duct has steadily increased to some 50,000 gallons annually by each; besides a goodly quantity, of two or three barrels to the family, made for private use by many of the grape- growers.
In the beginning it was no easy task to find a market for these wines. Wines were not a general beverage. It was a kind of luxury indulged in by men of means, and these had acquired a real or fancied taste for European wines. They adhered to the prejudiced idea that America could make no good wines. Wine dealers shared the same opinion and even now wine importers boldly maintain such is the case. They are excusable, because they make larger profits of importa- tions ; or they buy a good native wine, put foreign labels on it and sell at imported prices.
That there were good, sound meritorious native wines made, were acknowledged at the Vienna Exposition, in 1876, when a Missouri "Cynthiana" wine was awarded a first prize and this was followed by the award of a silver medal for red wines to the Monticello Wiue Company, or the Paris Exposition in 1878, subsequently followed by two first-class medals at the Word's Exposition, at New Orleans, in 1884-5.
But the Albemarle wines did not have to wait or rest their
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claims for merit on exposition medals. Fighting its way up hill, against long established prejudice, it gradually forced its passage into good society, gaining a recognition by the public of real intrinsic worth, till now it stands at the head of all native wines in all the large northern cities. It is a demon- strable fact that Albemarle County wines sell at a higher price to dealers and consumer than any wines made in America.
Of course, it will be understood that we do not claim to have produced wines equal to the Grand Vins of France, the Rhine and the Hungarian Tokay. These are produced in but limited quantities, from grapes raised at particular points, and their price places them far beyond the reach of all except a few. But for sound, clear, pure wine of a grade generally used by the world and at prices of a popular standard, our wines compare favorably in every respect with similarly classed European wines.
With the persistent efforts of America in producing higher- classed grapes, and continuous exertions to advance the quali- ties of wines, it is not improbable but that we may yet produce wines superior to the finest wines of Europe.
The general character of the Albemarle wines may be briefly indicated as follows :---
Catawba, made from the grape of that name, is probably the most extensively used of all American Wines. It has a strong flavor, and possesses less acid than the western wines of the same name. Its color is pale amber, like the Rhine wines, and it contains 13 per cent. of alcohol, by weight.
The Delaware is of a yellow color, fine flavor, great body and an alcoholic strength of 12 per cent.
Claret is mainly made from the Concord grape, and for a light table wine is superior to the imported clarets. Its low price places it within the reach of all. Its alcoholic strength is from 9 to 10 per cent.
Ivės Seedling is a claret with some astringency, fine color, improving greatly with age. Its alcoholic strength is 10 to I I per cent.
The Alvey wine is made, to a limited extent, from the grape
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of the same name. It resembles, in character and flavor, the finer wines of Bordeaux.
Cynthiana is considered the most characteristic of our native wines. It resembles the strongest Burgundy, very dark, great body and exquisite flavor, alcoholic strength 10 to 12 per cent.
Norton's Virginia is another wine of a Burgundy nature, possessing decided medicinal properties. Its color is nearly black, very heavy and of strong flavor. It is known to be a preventive of intermittent fevers and other malarious diseases, as well as for chronic diarrhœas and summer complaints in children. It is fully appreciated in Europe as one of the best red wines of the world. Age improves it greatly. Its alco- holic strength is from 10 to 12 per cent.
Clinton is a claret with wintergreen taste not liked except by a few. This taste disappears with age and is then quite popular as a claret.
Grape brandy is produced from the juice of all these grapes of a high class. Its distillation is the old plan still pursued in Cognac, France. 2
Hermann is a native sherry of good properties as a cooking wine, as well as a beverage for those partial to this class. Its alcoholic strength is 14 to 17 per cent., being nearly the same as that of the natural Sherry of Spain, ere it is fortified to 30 per cent. in the London Docks, from whence it is delivered to the consumer as pure. Oscar Reierson.
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ALBEMARLE COUNTY.
What Albemarle Can Do.
To show what can be done in Albemarle we publish the following sketch of Ellerslie, the home of Eolus :
This farm is about eight miles from Charlottesville, and is on the eastern slope of Carter's Mountain.
The lands now known as Ellerslie were originally taken up in colonial times by the Carters, and afterwards passed into the hands of Mr. James Ross, a wealthy citizen of Fredericksburg, Va. Mr. John O. Harris purchased Ellerslie, not then so named, in 1841. The farm, which consisted of 1,500 acres of land, was named by Mrs. Harris after William Wallace, the Knight of Ellerslie, whom she greatly admired. She imagined the two Ellerslies similarly situated.
Captain R. J. Hancock married a daughter of Mr. John O. Harris, and at the close of the war took charge of the place. Then the stock, fencing and agricultural implements were not in the best condition-for Sheridan had passed through the country. Additions have been made to the place until now it comprises 1,800 acres of land, a merchant mill, excellent barns, stables, &c. Every field and paddock is supplied with an abundance of pure water, while there is not an acre of marsh land upon the tract. In spite of the vicissitudes of war and other pestilences, the farm for forty-seven years has made its own corn and provender, not a dollar's worth of either being purchased in that period.
Captain Hancock's adventure in thoroughbred horses began by the purchase of Scathelock, a son of imported Eclipse and Fanny Washington, of Major Thomas W. Doswell in 1871. The next year he purchased of A. Keene Richards the chestnut mare, War Song, daughter of War Dance and Eliza Davis. From these he bred Lizzie Hazlewood, Mib McGee, Blenheim and Mevlock. His ideal, however, was Eolus, the son of Leamington and Fanny Washington, and as soon as he could he exchanged Scathelock for him. Eolus is a dark bay. with a star and two white hind heels, fifteen hands three inches high and splendid in bone and muscle. He ran two-mile heats over Pimlico course in 3:40, 3.3914, 3.3634 , the fastest third heat and the best average three heats, with 118 pounds up, on record. From him and War Song he bred Eole, Eolist, St. Saviour, Eola, Eolee, Eolo and Eon ; from Lizzie Hazlewood, Knight of Ellerslie, Thomasia, Charley Arnall and Charley Dreux. He afterwards made other purchases of brood mares. From Calash he bred Etha and Eolian ; from Sans Souci, Souvenir, Souci and Sourire; from Ninon, Sam Keene, Eleve and Eleveur; from Grace Darling, Miss Grace, Diable and Diablo; from Tillie Russell, Charley Russell, Harry Russell, Eolite and Rustic; from Jennie Belle, Ada Belle and Michael, and from Vigiliene, Vigilante.
The sales have been very satisfactory. Eole, 3 years old, sold for $4,500 ; Eolist, 2, $4,000; St. Saviour, 3, $12,000; Knight of Ellerslie, 3, $10,000 ; Eolo, 3, $6,000 ; Thomasia, 3, refused $4,000 ; Charley Dreux, 3, $4,000; Eon, I, running qualities, $2,000 ; Eolian, 3, $2,000 ; Sam Keene, 4, $2,000; Harry Russell, 3, $1,400; Michael, 3, $1,200 ; Souci, 3, $1,100, etc.
Eole while on the turf beat Long Taw, Getaway, Blue Lodge, Girofle, Lida Stanhope, Miss Woodford, Thora, Aella, Drake Carter, Glenmore, Bushwhacker, Parole, General Munroe, George Kinney, Iroquois, Monitor, etc. Captain Han- cock is convinced that he was the best race horse of modern times, as he beat everything he was ever matched against except Hindoo, and he ran him to earth .
No more race horses will be trained, and the stock business at Ellerslie will be confined hereafter to breeding and to annual sales of yearlings. The stud consists of three stallions and twenty-five brood mares.
There is also on the farm a splendid herd of Shorthorns of the best blood and milking families, which were collected by Mr. Lewis F. Allen, editor of the American Herd Book, (an uncle, by the by, of President Cleveland); pure Cots- wolds and Berkshires; in fact, everything on the farm is thoroughbred except work horses, even to setter dogs, Maltese cats and game chickens,
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Educational Facilities.
Free Schools.
O OTHER COUNTY possesses educational advantages equal to those of Albemarle. Its free school system has almost overcome the prejudices engendered by the great changes wrought by the war, and is rapidly attaining to that high standard of excellence and efficiency which has always characterized its numerous private schools for males and females.
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