USA > Virginia > Tazewell County > Tazewell County > Annals of Tazewell County, Virginia from 1800 to 1922 > Part 27
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The following remarks are taken from a work published by the Amer- ican Tract Society: "The sugar maple is a beautiful tree, reaching the height of seventy or eighty feet, the body straight, for a long distance free from limbs, and three or four feet in diameter at the base. It grows in colder climates, between latitudes 42 and 48, and on the Alleghanies to their
THE SUGAR CAMP.
southern termination, extending westward beyond lake Superior. The wood is nearly equal to hickory, for fuel, and is used for building, for ships, and various manufactures. When tapped, as the winter gives place to spring, a tree, in a few weeks, will produce five or six pailsful of sap, which is sweet and pleasant as a drink, and when boiled down will make about half as many pounds of sugar. The manufacturer, selecting a spot central among his trees, erects a temporary shelter, suspends his kettles over a smart fire, and at the close of a day or two will have fifty or a hundred pounds of sugar, which is equal to the common west India sugar, and when refined equals the finest in flavor and beauty.
"When the sap has been boiled to a sirup and is turning to molasses, then to candy, and then graining into sugar, its flavor is delightful, especially when the candy is cooled on the snow. On this occasion the manufacturer expects his wife, children, and friends, if near, to enjoy the scene." The person in the engraving on this page is represented as blowing the candy or
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BICKLEY'S HISTORY OF TAZEWELL COUNTY, VA.
wax, to ascertain how far the boiling has advanced. 41,341 pounds are annually manufactured in Tazewell county.
When the sugar-making season is over, spring has fairly begun; though few trees exhibit full grown leaves, those of the maple and buckeye, or horse-chestnut (Aesculus glabra), being earliest. The soft green foilage of these trees, the few spring flowers, the verdant meadows, the sweet warbling of forest birds, and general activity of the animal kingdom, make this the paradisian era of the year. By the first of June, nothing can exceed the beauty of this mountain region; the hill sides are variegated with a pro- fusion of flowers; sweet odors stimulate the olfactories at the inhalation of every breath, and these
"Pleasant breezes, and slight showers, And the sweet odor of flowers,"
produce a carelessness, and happy contentedness, known to few other than oriental lands.
SUMMER.
This does not differ much, in appearance, from spring; yet materially in its effects. The grains are now nearly ready for harvesting, except corn, which is not gathered till fall. The summers are warm for a country so elevated, yet not so warm as the surrounding counties; there is, too, less rain at this season. But little traveling is done, and business dull; the far- mers being closely engaged at home. About the fourth of July the harvest begins, and continues several weeks. This ended, the farmers begin to gather their cattle for the drovers, who carry from the county, annually, about 7,000 head, starting usually in the latter part of August and begin- ning of September. At times, the roads may be seen lined with cattle for miles, many of them passing through the county, from Kentucky and Ten- nessee, on their way to the eastern markets. The labors of the farm slacken till frost appears.
AUTUMN.
Fall is remarkable for the great beauty of the decaying foilage. Numer- ous plants are now in full bloom, and with the varied colors of the forest, present a sight of loveliness rarely seen. The nights become cooler, till fire is required, and soon in the month of October frost appears. Snow sometimes falls in this month, but most generally, not till November.
Soon after the appearance of frost, in October, the Indian summer sets in-a season as beautiful as its name. The air is pleasant, and a smoky haze fills the atmosphere.
This season, of all others, would be preferred for a perpetual climate. It lasts from ten days to three weeks. Many beautiful Indian love-tales are connected with this season, but are better suited to the pages of a maga- zine than this place. The seasons of Tazewell are objectionable only for one thing, viz: sudden changes, as mentioned under the head of Meteorology.
CHAPTER V.
METEOROLOGY.
Important as this subject is to the farmer, little attention has been paid to it. Few, I am persuaded, have appreciated its importance; and until our farmers avail themselves of the important laws, and consequent deductions which it has brought to light, we need not expect to see our land producing their proportionate amount of sustenance.
Meteorology, is the scientific designation of that science which treats of the atmosphere, and its varied phenomena. It is an essential part of a farmer's education, and without a knowledge of its principles, he must act upon the rude systems which have been conjured up by the wild super- stitutions of his fathers, in whose maxims he sees all science.
The every-day experience of any farmer will satisfy him that light, heat, air, temperature, etc., play an important part in the vegetable, as well as in the animal worlds .*
The following remarks are based upon the observations of two winters and a summer. I have, also, availed myself of some of the current opinions which exist among the more learned farmers of the county. From the nature of the country-mountainous and much elevated, as mentioned in another place-almost every variety of climate, from 36° to 50° N. Latitude, is to be found in certain localities of the county. The climate of Quebec and Charleston alike exist; the former on the mountain-peaks, and the latter in the deepest valleys. Owing to this fact it is difficult to give correct meteorological information unless observations have been made at dif- ferent places.
I give the result at Jeffersonville, as being probably near the mean of the county.
The mean temperature for Winter months is 30° Fahr.
The mean temperature for Spring months is 52° Fahr.
The mean temperature for Summer months is 73° Fahr.
The mean temperature for Fall months is 61° Fahr.
The fall of rain in the Winter months is 272 inches.
The fall of rain in the Spring months is 163 inches.
The fall of rain in the Summer months is 8} inches.
The fall of rain in the Fall months is 62 inches.
Thus we have 54° as the mean temperature, and 583 inches of rain during the year; which gives to each season 143 inches, and to each day 0.1599 inches, or about 1 1-6 of an inch.
Snow falls in the valleys from the first of November to the first of April, and on the mountain tops, a little sooner and later. Its early fall, in autumn, destroys large quantities of timber, the leaves of which catch the snow till the weight becomes insupportable. The branches, and sometimes the body, giving way, fill the roads with fragments, rendering them impassable.
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BICKLEY'S HISTORY OF TAZEWELL COUNTY, VA.
The winds vary very much, with the direction of the valleys, and it is often difficult to determine their real course; every valley seeming to draw a current through it. West, N. W. and east winds, prevail; though south- erly winds sometimes blow for a short time. Northerly winds usually produce fair weather, while Easterly winds bring rain. Much rain is re- quired for the soil, hence, vegetation shoots with the greatest rapidity during the wet season of spring.
The general temperature seems to be higher than it formerly was, there being less snow, and ice, during the winters, as well as less rain, than during the first years of settlement. This no doubt, is owing to the loss of timber on the cleared lands; it is the only way in which we can account for this change of climate. This explanation has the sanction of Baron Von Hum- boldt (see his Cosmos), than whom no man was a better judge, or closer observer of this department of nature.
The dry season, in the beginning of summer, sometimes does much mischief, not only to vegetation, but to man's health. The effects of light upon the soil, are nowhere more perceptible than here. The number of rays of light, falling at right angles on the south sides of the mountains during a greater part of the year, seems to have quite exhausted the soil, especially near the summits. On the north sides of the mountains, even from the tops, the soil is of the finest quality, and very productive. From this we should conclude, that to preserve and foster the productive energy of the soil, it requires shading. Changes of temperature are very sudden, the thermometer sometimes sinking rapidly from 70° to 20° Fahr., re- maining so a few hours, and then rising as rapidly again, to 60° to 70°. This irregularity constitutes an objection to the climate, which, it is to be hoped, will be removed when the lands are entirely cleared up.
It is certainly a great pity, that meteorological investigations have not been instituted in this country; and it is still more unfortunate, that the farming community should have paid so little attention to a subject which so seriously affects their dearest interests.
"If a small portion of the talent and public patronage of this country could be turned to the study of vegetable and animal physiology, in their connection with farm economy, and to chemistry, entomology, agricul- tural geology, and meteorology, unquestionably, the average of our wheat, corn and cotton crops, would soon be doubled."*
The farmers of this region have long believed that a plain English education, i. e., to read, write, and cipher, was all sufficient for a farmer, and hence science has been discarded as useless. The truth is, we need a scientific farmer's school, founded upon Socrates' idea of useful knowledge- to teach that, which would admit of application. We have too many schools where the mere theory of life and its means are taught.
* Lee-Patent Office Report, Part II, 1849.
CHAPTER VI.
DESCRIPTIVE GEOGRAPHY.
MOUNTAINS.
The principal mountains of Tazewell are Clinch, Rich, East River, Brushy, Garden, Paint Lick, Deskins and Flat Top. They have an eleva- tion, above the valleys, of about eighteen hundred feet, and about three thousand above the level of the sea. For remarks upon their geological formation I would refer the reader to the Transactions of the Jeffersonville Historical Society. The general course of these mountains is N. 67º E.
Clinch mountain, which receives its name from Clinch river, extends through the entire length of the county. It has several gaps, through which wagon-roads pass.
Rich mountain, so called from the character of its soil, is a branch or spur of Clinch mountain, running parallel to its entire length.
East River mountain, so called from a stream of that name flowing along near its base, begins a few miles east of Jeffersonville, and runs parallel to the Rich mountain to the county line on the east.
Brushy mountain, receiving its name from the brushy character of its growth on the south side, runs in the same direction as the Clinch, and forms the southern boundary line of the county.
Paint Lick mountain is a continuation of the House and Barn mountain in Russell county, and is separated from it by the Maiden Spring fork, of Clinch river. There was once a great elk and deer lick, near its western end, and there are many paintings (still visable), supposed to have been executed by the Shawanoe Indians, or perhaps, by the Cherokees. The paintings represent birds, women, Indian warriors, etc. From these paint- ings, the lick was named, which was soon applied to the mountain. It rises near the western county line, and runs in the general direction to near Jeffersonville: it here sinks, to admit the passage of another fork of Clinch river, and again rises, forming Elkhorn mountain.
Deskins' mountain, so called from an early settler, runs parallel, and near the Paint lick, for about the same distance.
The Great Flat Top, rises from a spur of the Cumberland mountains, which traverse the county. It is in the northeast corner of the county, and on it, corner Tazewell, Mercer, and Wyoming counties. It receives its name from a large level area on its summit.
To notice the remaining small mountains and great ridges, would occupy too much space. The northern part of the county is much cut up with them and renders it almost valueless for farming purposes. For grazing, however, it cannot be excelled.
Har-23
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BICKLEY'S HISTORY OF TAZEWELL COUNTY, VA.
VALLEYS.
The principal valleys, are the Clinch, Abb's, Poor, Baptist, Thompson's, and Deskins'. They are not so wide as those of the adjoining counties, yet sufficiently broad, to afford room for some beautiful farms.
Clinch valley, through which flows the north fork of Clinch river, and from which it was named, is the most important, and perhaps, contains the best lands in the county. In it is located the seat of justice, and through it passes the Fincastle and Cumberland Gap turnpike.
Abb's valley, so called from Absalom Looney, the first white settler, is a narrow, but beautiful and fertile valley, under which runs a creek of considerable size, its entire length of about twelve miles-it is much cele- brated, in consequence of the horrible massacres which were perpetrated in it.
Poor valley, is between Clinch and Brushy mountains: it is narrow, and the lands poorer, than most of the surrounding country; yet in point of mineral wealth, it is one of the richest valleys in the county. It is several hundred feet lower than the adjoining valleys.
Thompson's valley, between Rich and Clinch mountains, is one of the most beautiful in the county. The lands are good and in a high state of cultivation. It is from two to three miles wide, and was so called from a large family residing in it, and who were among the earliest settlers.
Baptist valley, was so named from the number of persons belonging to the Baptist denomination of Christians, who settled in it. It is a valley of some importance, the Tazewell C. H. and Kentucky turnpike passing through its entire length.
Deskin's valley, between a range of hills, and Deskins' mountain, re- ceived its name from an early settler. There are some fine farms in it, though the valley is small.
RIVERS AND CREEKS.
Clinch is the principal, and Sandy, the most important in the county. The latter heads in the county, and is navigable to the county line, for flat-boats. East river, Tug, and Bluestone creek, are considerable streams.
Clinch river heads in this county, and receives its name from an inci- dent which occurred on it in 1767. A hunter named Castle, left Augusta and went to what is now Russell county, to hunt with a party of friendly Indians, who were living on it. This tribe made frequent visits to the settle- ment, carrying off horses, and such other stock as they could get hold of. A man named Harman, who was robbed of some things, and believing Castle to be the instigator to these acts, applied to a Mr. Buchanan, a justice of Augusta, for a writ to arrest Castle and bring him to trial. The writ was issued, and a party raised to arrest him, among whom, was a lame man named Clinch. The party went to Castle's camp, and attempted to arrest him, but the Indians joined Castle, and Harman's party was forced to retreat across the river.
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BICKLEY'S HISTORY OF TAZEWELL COUNTY, VA.
In the hurry of the moment, Clinch got behind, and while fording the river was shot by an Indian, who rushed forward to secure his scalp, but was shot by one of Harman's party. The vulgar tradition is, that an Indian was pursuing a white man, who clenched, and drowned the Indian in the stream.
I had the former statement, however, from a grandson of the magis- trate who issued the warrant for Castle's apprehension.
As before stated, the river rises in the county, east of Jeffersonville, running in a westerly direction, and receiving numerous small streams, till it reaches what is known as New Garden, in Russell county. It is then joined by the Maiden Spring fork, which rises in Thompson's valley, flows a short distance, sinks several miles and rises again near what is known as Maiden Spring, owned by Col. Rees T. Bowen, and one of the loveliest places in Tazewell. This spring is named also, from an incident which happened to Rees Bowen, the earliest settler near it, and grandfather of its present owner.
When Mr. Bowen first saw the spring, he discovered a fine young female deer, feeding on the moss within the orifice from which gushes the spring. He shot it, and when he went to get his deer, saw a pair of elk horns stand- ing on their points, and leaning against the rocks. Mr. Bowen, was a very large and tall man, yet he had no difficulty in walking upright under the horns. He chose this place for his home, and the spring and river, have since been known as Maiden Spring and Fork.
The Sandy river has several branches heading in this county, the most important of which, are the La Visee, Dry, and Tug Forks.
La Visee, has many branches in Tazewell, and is navigable for flat- boats, to the county line. The first white man who ascended it, was a Frenchman, who found a well-executed design, or painting upon a peeled poplar; hence its name-"la", translated, meaning the, and "visee," mean- ing a design, aim or representation. It is sometimes called Louisa fork, from Louisa C. H., Kentucky, near its junction with the Tug river.
The Dry fork, heads about six miles N. W. from Jeffersonville, and flows into the Tug river. So named, because the waters on it get very low during the summer.
The Tug river, is named from an incident which took place in 1756. "Maj. Andrew Lewis was appointed to command this expedition (one ordered by Gov. Dinwiddie, to march against the Shawanoes on the Ohio), and directed to proceed against the Shawnee villages, near the mouth of the Great Kanawaha. Maj. Lewis led his men, through great peril and suffering, within a few miles of the Ohio, when a messenger, ordering a return of the expedition, reached him. The whole party suffered intensely during this march, and once were reduced to the necessity of cutting their buffalo-skins into tugs, and eating them; hence the name Tug River."* The river is in the northern part of the county, and abounds in fine fish. It is too much obstructed by falls, to be navigable at any stage of water.
East river, so called from the direction which it flows, is a small stream, emptying into the Kanawha.
* DeHass's History of Western Virginia, pages 202-3.
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BICKLEY'S HISTORY OF TAZEWELL COUNTY, VA.
Bluestone creek or river, also, flows east, and is remarkable for the clear blue color of its waters; hence its name. In addition to these rivers (which are but large creeks), there are quite a number of creeks, only a few of which will here be noticed.
Great Indian Creek, rises in what is known, as the Sinking waters, and flows southerly, into Clinch river, sixteen miles west of Jeffersonville. A man named Ray, was killed on it, by some Indians. At its head is a spring, said to possess the property of petrifying nuts, twigs, etc., some of which are in my possession.
Cove Creek, rises in the Cove, and meanders under ground through it, coming out at Maiden Spring, numerous openings from the surface enable stock to get water from it.
Wolf creek, rises in Burk's Garden, flows into the Kanawha (here called New River), and was named from an encounter with a wolf on its margin.
There are hundreds of others, each one of which, by its name, perpet- uates some traditional incident; but I have not space to notice them.
DESCRIPTION OF PARTICULAR LOCALITIES.
COVE.
This is a large area of nearly level land, containing about fifteen square miles, and situated at the west end of Thompson's valley, between Clinch
COVE AND MAIDEN SPRING FARMS.
and Short mountains, which was evidently, at one time, connected with the Rich mountain. The waters seem to have accumulated, and forced a way
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BICKLEY'S HISTORY OF TAZEWELL COUNTY, VA.
through that spot now known as Maiden Spring. The land is very fertile, well timbered and watered, and the surrounding farms in fine order. Add to it the adjoining lands and residence of Maj. H. S. Bowen and Col. Rees T. Bowen, and I know of no place or section in Tazewell county, of the same extent, so desirable. The society is good, and the inhabitants very hos- pitable. I hesitate not to call this the garden-spot of Tazewell county. It was settled in 1772, by John Craven, who was followed, the next year, by Rees Bowen, David Ward, and William Garrison. The latter, however, settled on its very edge. The descendants of these men are still living in the Cove. The Wards, Bowens, Gillespies, Barneses, and Youngs, con- stitute a major part of its population. The scenery from here is fine, and the climate warmer, than other parts of the county.
RICHLANDS.
This locality is in the western part of the county, on Clinch river, and is noted for its fine lands. It is a pretty place, and in every sense of the word, desirable.
BLUESTONE.
Here is to be found another fine farming country; the people moral and prosperous, and blessed with "peace and plenty." It is in the eastern part of the county, on Bluestone river. The Fincastle turnpike passes through it. The settlement contains a division of the Sons of Temperance, which speaks much for its population.
BURK'S GARDEN.
The following description of Burk's garden, was written by Thomas G. Harrison, a gentlemen of Jeffersonville, and published in the Jeffersonville Democrat, in September 1850, which, polished in novel style as it is, is in the main correct.
"Burk's garden, in Tazewell county, Virginia, considered in its geo- logical and geographical character, abounds with a beauty perhaps unpar- alleled by any other scope of land, of equal area, on the American conti- nent. It is about ten miles in length, from east to west, and five in breadth, from north to south; entirely surrounded by lofty mountains, save a narrow pass, through which flows Wolf creek, a small, rippling rivulet, which derives its name from the number of wolves caught in traps, and otherwise extermi- nated on its margin.
"Seventy years ago, a man named Burk ascended the Garden mountain on the south side, and from its summit beheld, for the first time ever civil- ized man did, this enchanting vale, rich in the exuberance of nature's virgin dress. According to a well-authenticated tradition, Burk descended the mountain late in the evening, accompanied by his dogs and gun, and erected his camp near a tinkling fountain; breaking, for the first time, the primeval solitude that had reigned in this dell since creation's birth, the undisturbed
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BICKLEY'S HISTORY OF TAZEWELL COUNTY, VA.
genius of the woods. At every stroke of his ax in the gnarled oak and smooth poplar, echo, aroused from her lair, answered loud, and flew shrinking back into her covered recess, as if mad at the rude invasion. The branching antlered buck, and screaming panther, stalked around his camp with an air of curiosity, as if wondering what his presence could mean, yet proud of their native freedom, and unconscious of their deadly foe. What a beau- tiful prospect was spread out before Burk on that solitary evening. Flowers of every hue and odor, and bright speckled trout, flirting the crystal waters with their glittering fins, and anon skimming the surface of the pearly rill birds of gaudy plumage and silvery sound, apparently sporting in an ecstasy of glee at the idea of having for an auditor, a fair visaged biped of stately step and comely form; and perchance they poured from their mellow throats a thousand varied choruses of harping melodies, soothing and charming the wrapped sense of the astounded Burk, until he fancied himself in a very Jehosaphat, or an elysium, in which every fleeting zephyr was freighted with a tuneful intelligence, whispering happiness, or, as Milton would say
"It seemed a fit haunt for the gods,"
As, in truth, it was a real haunt for the wild gods of Columbia-the red men of the forest. Two Indian tribes, the Cherokees and Shawanoes, frequented south-western Virginia, at the time Burk explored these wilds. He was an excellent hunter and pioneer, of the Daniel Boone style; and buffalo, elk and deer, were quite numerous, at this period, in Burk's garden (I under stand that buffalo were scarce. B.)-for wild pea-vine, and blue-grass, grew four or five feet high, from mountain to mountain-making it a perfect paradise for the grazing species."
In 1848, the legislature of Virginia granted a charter for the construc- tion of a road, called Fancy gap and Tazewell C. H. turnpike, which will pass through the interior of the garden, and which, when completed, will add greatly to its importance."
I have not space for the insertion of the whole article, and hence have been compelled to partially mutilate it. There is some dispute about Burk having discovered the garden; some contending that it was discovered by Morris Griffy, a stepson of Burk. The garden is located in the south-east part of the county, about sixteen miles from Jeffersonville. It was evidently at one time, nothing more than a pond, which eventually, forced its way through Wolf creek pass. The soil is certainly alluvial. I beg to differ with Mr. H. about its being the most desirable part of the county, for two reasons, first, its climate is too cold to mature corn well, and secondly, it is hard of access. It is 900 feet higher than Jeffersonville, or 1000 feet above the bed of Clinch river. Its winters are four weeks longer than those of the country around the C. H., and six weeks longer than those of the Cove. Small grain and grass do exceedingly well upon its soil.
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