USA > Virginia > Tazewell County > Tazewell County > Annals of Tazewell County, Virginia from 1800 to 1922 > Part 28
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COUNTRY AROUND JEFFERSONVILLE.
The lands here are well improved, and will compare favorably with any in the county. There are many fine farms near the town, among which
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may be mentioned those of Thos. Peery, Esq., John Wynn, Esq., Col. John B. George, Kiah Harman, Henry, Elias, G. W., and William Harman, Joseph, and Thomas G. Harrison, A. A. Spotts, Hervey G. Peery, Esq., and Dr. H. F. Peery .... 50,000 acres of these lands, are worth from forty to fifty dollars an acre, and little could be purchased for even that sum.
These farms are well stocked, and laid down in fine grasses, among which may be mentioned, blue-grass, long English, timothy, and clover. The dwellings are good, and an air of ease, and opulence, is everywhere seen. The water is an excellent quality of blue limestone.
CLEAR FORK SETTLEMENT.
This is in the eastern part of the county, on the creek of that name. It has the reputation of being a fine farming country, and a place every way desirable. When Tazewell county shall be generally as well improved, as the places which have been mentioned, it may well be called a Mountain Garden.
JEFFERSONVILLE.
(See Frontispiece).
Jeffersonville is the seat of justice or capital of the county, and is situ- ated on an elevated plain in Clinch valley, about one mile from the river. It is centrally situated in the county, if regarded from east to west, but not so from north to south, being within ten miles of the southern line, and up- ward of forty from its northern boundary. The surrounding scenery is in- deed beautiful. Immediately south of the town rises Wolf creek knob, or the Peak, the summit of which, in winter, is frequently covered with snow, while verdant grass is seen lower down the mountain side, in beautiful con- trast with the dreariness of the snow-mantled top. In summer it is beauti- fully decorated with laurel and ivy blossoms; great quantities of these shrubs growing near its summit.
To the east are seen the three abrupt and rocky heads of East River mountain; to the west, like ends of Paint Lick and Deskins' mountains, which, however, are somewhat obscured by large hills. To get a good view a hill north of the town must be ascended; from this hill the view on the opposite page was taken.
In this view, the high peak to the left represents Morris's knob. The other two to the right, are the ends of Paint Lick and Deskins' mountains. In the distance are seen mountains in Russell county. North of the town a pleasant succession of hills rise, which give a beautiful aspect to the country, especially when the forests are covered with foliage.
The town contains about eighty houses, and numbers over three hun- dred inhabitants. Few villages anywhere in south-western Virginia, have a neater appearance, or present a more business-like scene. The streets are laid out at right angles, the principal ones running east and west. The main street is well paved and partially McAdamized; it will soon be com- pleted. The houses are usually well built, and painted white. A better
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site might have been selected for its location, but the land could not be purchased. The most objectionable feature to its present location is the difficulty of getting water. A single spring supplies most of the town with water, which is hauled in barrels. Considering the danger of the town in case of fire, it is a little strange why water has not been brought into the town by pipes from a spring of purest water three or four hundred feet above the town on the side of the mountain. The cost of doing so would not prob- ably exceed $1,000.
SCENERY WEST FROM JEFFERSONVILLE.
Jeffersonville was founded in June, 1800, and named from Thomas Jefferson. The name really signifying Jefferson's village.
The following is a business directory of the town:
NORTHWESTERN BRANCH BANK .- Main St., E. C. H.
Officers .- President, John W. Johnston; Cashier, Isaac M. Benham; Clerk, Rees B. Gillespie.
Directory .- John C. McDonald, John B. George, Kiah Harman, Geo. W. G. Browne, S. F. Watts, Samuel Graham, Isaac E. Chapman .- Capital $100,000.
Discount day, Friday.
JEFFERSONVILLE SAVINGS BANK .- Main St., nearly opposite Court House.
Officers .- Cashier or Treasurer, Addison A. Spotts; Secretary, William O. Yost.
Directory -Thomas Peery, Rees T. Bowen, A. A. Spotts, Granville Jones, William Cox, William O. Yost, John C. Hopkins .- Capital, by limi- tation, $100,000.
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Discount day, Saturday.
UNION HOTEL .- Main St., one door west of the C. H. Proprietors, R. W. & T. Witten.
VIRGINIA HOUSE .- Main St., three doors east of the C. H. Proprietors, McCarty & Bosang.
POST OFFICE .- Opposite C. H. P. M., A. A. Spotts. Deputies, Witten and Chapman.
MAIL ARRIVALS.
Northern mail, via Wytheville, Tuesdays and Fridays.
Northern mail, via Fincastle, Tuesdays and Saturdays.
Southern mail, via Broadford, Wednesdays.
Western mail, via Lebanon, Mondays and Saturdays.
Western mail, via Richlands, Wednesdays.
MAIL DEPARTURES.
Northern mail, via Wytheville, Wednesdays and Saturdays.
Northern mail, via Fincastle, Mondays and Saturdays.
Southern mail, via Broadford, Wednesdays.
Western mail, via Lebanon, Tuesdays and Saturdays.
Western mail, via Richlands, Thursdays.
PHYSICIANS.
H. F. Peery. Office, west end Main St.
R. W. Witten. Office, Union Hotel.
Jas. R. Doak. Office Main St., West C. H.
G. W. L. Bickley. Office, Union Hotel.
Jno. M. Estill. Office, Main St.
Thos. G. Witten. Office, Main St. opposite Va. House.
LAWYERS.
Joseph Stras. Office, Main Street.
John A. Kelly. Office, Main Street.
John W. Johnston. Office, Main Street. Wade D. Strother. Office, Main Street.
Wm. Henry Maxwell. Office, Court-House room.
Sterling F. Watts. Office, Main Street.
CLERK SUPERIOR AND COUNTY COURTS.
G. W. G. Browne. Office, C. H.
JAILER.
William J. Crutchfield.
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PRINTING OFFICE.
S. W. Advocate. Geo. Fred. Holmes, Editor.
MERCHANTS.
Witten & Chapman, Main Street, Groceries and Dry Goods. A. J. Dunn, Main Street, Groceries and Dry Goods.
F. P. & W. Spotts, Main Street, Groceries and Dry Goods. W. W. Dunn & Bros., Main Street, Groceries and Dry Goods. John C. McDonald, Main Street, Groceries and Dry Goods.
St. Clair & Hopkins, Main Street, Groceries and Dry Goods.
W. Page & Co., Main Street, Jewelers. A. McPhatridge, Main Street, Tinware.
W. O. & H. A. Yost, Main Street, Saddlery.
William Cox, Back Street, Saddlery.
Eldred R. Baylor, Main Street, Clothing Store.
P. Ingoldsby, Main Street, Clothing Store.
W. O. Yost, Back Street, Tannery.
W. Cox, Back Street, Tannery.
G. G. Hickman, Court Alley, Boots and Shoes.
Tho Witten, Back Street, Tannery.
W. J. Crutchfield, Jail Building, Boots and Shoes.
BLACKSMITHS.
Granville Jones, Main Street. S. G. Huddle, Main Street.
CHURCHES.
Methodist, Main Street, Rev. G. W. G. Browne, Pastor. Presbyterian, Main Street, Rev. Mr. Naff, Pastor.
Catholic, Near Main Street, , Priest.
Masonic Lodge, Main Street, Tuesdays.
Floyd Lodge, 84, I. O. O. F., Main Street, Wednesdays.
B. U. (H. F.) C. A. Circle, Jail Buildings Saturdays.
Sons Temperance-Hall, Main Street, Fridays.
Jeffersonville Hist. Society-Library Room, Main Street, Quarterly.
There are several industrial establishments, which are not noticed.
LIBERTY HILL.
Situated on the Fincastle and Cumberland Gap turnpike, eight miles west of Jeffersonville, is a flourishing little village, and would soon grow to importance if it was located as to afford building-ground: but situated
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in a narrow valley, between high hills, there is little room for expansion. It has one hotel, three stores, and several industrial establishments. Not- withstanding its proximity to Jeffersonville, it has considerable trade.
It was founded in 182-, and named from a church used by all denomi- nations of Christians. "Hill" was added to distinguish it from Liberty in Bedford county, Va. It is well supplied with water, and is a pleasant place.
CHAPTER VII.
SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS.
There are three kinds of land in Tazewell, which will be noticed in order. It is generally known that it is the celebrated blue-grass soil, strongly im- pregnated with lime, and very productive. It is a clay loam, very tana- cious in its nature, and easily resuscitated. But to the description of the different kinds.
1st. The bottom lands, generally limestone, soil stiff, and very pro- ductive. The soil of the bottom lands may be regarded as slightly alluvial, for it is generally deposited from the hill-side and water during the wet seasons of winter and spring.
Few rocks appearing above the surface renders it easy to cultivate, and enables the farmer to do so with most advantage.
Corn is mostly grown on the bottom lands, because it is easier to plow. It makes fine meadows.
2d. The hill, or upland. This is to be found on the base of mountains, and over small hills. This class of land is quite as valuable as the bottom lands; it is generally laid down in meadow grasses. It is somewhat dis- figured by rocks, occasionally near the surface, or jutting through the soil. They really injure the land less than one used to rockless lands would sup- pose. The soil near them is richer than it is in a few yards from them; hence, the grass is ranker, and produces as much to a given area as if no rocks appeared. Experiment has tested this.
Very many acres of this upland is destitute of rocks, and then nothing can exceed, in agricultural beauty, the soft, luxuriant blue-grass with which it is covered.
The 3d class, or mountain land, is generally used for pasturage. It is found on the mountains, above an elevation of 600 feet. It is equally as rich as either the first or second classes, but is too cold to mature grains, unless it be rye. It is also too steep for cultivation, or even for growing grass, had it to be mowed. The stock, however, succeed in climbing the mountain-sides for it, and during the summer keep fat. It was formerly but little valued; it now bears a good price.
There is a strange phenomenon here (as in other mountain countries), effecting the difference of lands found on north and south hill-sides. The cause, or explanation, has been given under the head of Meteorology. The soil on the north sides of the mountains and hills is a dark, loose loam, and extremely rich; the rocks (though few) are the finest quality of limestone. On the south, they are essentially different in kind and quality, being flint and clay slate, often pulverized so as not much to impede the plow. It will require some geological speculations to account for this difference in rock, and to such works I refer the reader. The growth on the south sides, above
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600 feet, is shrubby, and generally oak and chestnut; and the land does not produce, by any means, as well as the valley or north side lands. The south side land, below 600 feet, was formerly but little valued, being gritty, but it is now looked on as the finest wheat land.
I remarked that the soil of the land in Tazewell was "Tenacious;" I mean by this that it wears well. A field on the Crab-orchard farm, cleared in 1775, upward of seventy-five years ago, has not had a year's rest, and now produces equally as well as any land in the county. With anything like care, the farmer here can never impoverish his lands.
I have never known a judge of land to examine those of Tazewell with- out passing the highest encomiums upon them, and I hope I shall not be ac- cused of partiality when I say-I have seen lands in most of the states and territories, and have found none, anywhere, more deserving enomiums than those of Tazewell county, Virginia. To the farmer it will be gratifying to know, that our lands, though broken, do not wash.
[List of Plants and Trees are Omitted.]
The botanist will find many plants not generally supposed to grow in mountainous districts; while the medical gentleman will agree with me, that nature seems to have made this county the home of the most important medicinal plants in her materia medica. The following remarks, I quote from an address to the public, by the author, prefacing the constitution and by-laws of the Jeffersonville Historical Society, and published in 1851.
"The Botany of western Virginia is not surpassed by that of any other section in the temperate zones. 'This region,' as Torrey says, 'may be called a garden of medicinal plants."
Ornamental, as well as medicinal plants, are here scattered with a pro- fuse hand. To every disease of this region, nature seems to have furnished a remedy. If in any country botany can be studied with advantage, it is here; for flowers of the same class, genera, and species, are blooming for several months. Those in the valleys first, and those found upon the ascent of the mountains, later. Many have been the pleasant days which I have spent in botanical rambles on these mountains, where from frost till frost flowers are ever found.
CHAPTER VIII
LIVE STOCK
I have not space to treat this subject at that length, which its import- ance demands, nor is it necessary to go into details, as the people of Tazewell seem awake to their interest, which is closely connected with this subject* When the stock markets of the east are dull, business is seriously affected in this county; the export of stock, constituting a principal source of wealth (see Commerce). The live stock of the county, is valued at 517,330 dollars, and it probably greatly exceeds that sum. My calculations are based upon the census returns for June 1850, since which time, a year and a half has passed, and, of course, has proportionally increased, so that if their val- uation was now stated to be 600,000 dollars I should perhaps be within the bounds of truth. There is no subject more interesting to a majority of farmers, but want of space compels me to leave its perfect elucidation to others better qualified for the task.
HORSES.
Tazewell has long been celebrated for its fine horses. The principal breeds in the county, are the Tamoleon, Yorick, Packalet, Cooper, and Trueblue.
The Tamoleons are celebrated for their riding qualities, and when crossed with the cultivator, are, perhaps, equal to any in the United States. They are very docile, and easily kept in good order. They are sorrel, with flax mane and tail, and with the exceptions of a few defects about the head, are fine specimens of the species.
The Yorick breed, are generally black, rather small, well muscled, fiery and make excellent saddle-horses. They are remarkable for having sprung from Yorick, the bitter foe of the Indians (see History of Moore Family- Book, III).
The Packalet was introduced into Tazewell from Botetourt county, Va. Most of the fine grays, seen in our county, are of this stock. They are fine harness horses, and are not much inferior to others, if used under the saddle.
The Coopers and Trueblues are, also, quite numerous, and with many are favorite breeds.
If we except the Arabians, no people are fonder of fine horses, than those of Tazewell. Boys, from an early age, manifest great partiality for them. They are generally good judges of a horse, and have them well used. From the character of the country, the labors of a horse are slavish. They bear a good price, first class horses selling from one hundred and fifty, to one hundred and sixty dollars, and second class selling from one hundred, to one hundred and twenty-five dollars. There are upward of 5,000 in the county:
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about 200 are annually driven south and east. Much money is made by buying and selling in the county; but those who drive them off, generally lose, prices being too high, at home, to admit of speculation, when driven to a distance.
MULES.
There are but few in the county, though their culture is beginning to engage public attention. Our climate and pastures seem every way calcu- lated to produce as fine mules, as any part of Kentucky. They require little or no feeding, and will, therefore, yield greater profits than horses, which require more or less grain, during the entire winter. It seems difficult to convince the older farmers, that they are as able to perform the labors of the farm as the horse. Time will, however, convince them that this object- ion is futile. They should be raised for exportation, as they require as little care as cattle, and yield much greater profits.
CATTLE.
There is nowhere to be found, a country better adapted to grazing cattle than this county. The grass is said to be superior, both in abundance and quality, by all stock dealers. About 7,000 head are annually driven to market; but on which, like all other live stock, great losses are sometimes sustained. This could not be otherwise, while markets are at such a dis- tance.
The improved, are the long and short horned Durham and Devon. A majority of the cattle in the county are, however, of the unimproved, or native stock, which are less, and do not bear so good a price as the improved.
Three year old steers, are worth from twelve to sixteen dollars, accord- ing to the scarcity, and the reported demand in market. There are some- where in the neighborhood or 1800 in the county. A part of those driven from the county, are bought up in Kentucky and Tennessee during the fall, wintered and kept till September, when they are taken to market.
SHEEP.
There are only about 20,000 head of sheep in the county, and these suf- fered to run at large on the mountains, without shepherds, subject to the mercy of the wolves and dogs. It is no unusual thing for great numbers to be killed in the spring. The owners pay but little attention to them, and do not even make them as profitable as they might be made.
There are few improved flocks: but the small, unimproved, are here a superior sheep. About 25,000 pounds of wool are annually taken, and a a major part exported. It is to be regretted, that our farmers have paid so little attention to wool growing. I am well convinced, that the same amount of capital invested in sheep, that is invested in cattle, would pay a much better profit. No county in the state is better adapted to the rear- ing of sheep, than this-a poor sheep being seldom seen.
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BICKLEY'S HISTORY OF TAZEWELL COUNTY, VA.
HOGS.
There are 21,000 in the county, though not over 500 are annually driven to market. 10,000 pounds are baconed, a portion of which is sold to the adjoining counties of Washington and Smyth. Hogs do not seem to thrive so well here as formerly, owing, no doubt, to the uncertainty, and some- times scarcity of the chestnut and acorn crops. The markets are in Eastern Virginia. There are not goats sufficient to require notice.
CHAPTER IX.
COMMERCE OF TAZEWELL.
Considering the population of Tazewell, its commerce is rather exten- sive. To give a correct idea of its growth I shall be compelled to turn back from the present to an early period. It has been elsewhere stated, that during the first years of settlement, all goods were brought from the east on packhorses. The goods then imported were pottery, and hardware, consisting of axes, knives and forks, pocket-knives, hammers, saws, chisels, ect. Neither groceries nor dry goods, found a place on the list of import- ations. After the peace of 1783, the list was enlarged. Hitherto almost everything had been paid for in peltries, a currency much easier acquired by the frontiermen, and much less liable to depreciation, than the continen- tal money then in circulation.
There being at this time, no roads over which wagons could pass, of course the task of importation was tedious, and sometimes uncertain. From all appearances, none thought it scarcely creditable, that in the short space of half a century, so great a change would have been made. An incident related to me by Mr. Samuel Witten, seems to the point :-
James Witten, one of the early settlers, whose keen judgment had led him to expect that this county was, at some future time, destined to be the seat of a free, happy, and independent people, one day at a house-raising jocosely inquired of his comrades, what they would think, if in twenty-five years, wagons actually came into the county, and passed along the very valley in which they were at work? The rest of the company laughed at the idea, nor could the old man persuade them, that such a thing would take place even in fifty years. Yet, in a few years-much less than twenty-five, the road was made, and wagons passed over the very spot predicted by Mr. Witten, to the no small wonder of the older people, and terror of the children.
The road, however, was not what would now be expected by the name. From this time, the roads continued to improve, and the importation of goods to increase. They were then wagoned from Philadelphia, one wagon- load generally supplying the whole county. About the year 1800, a sack of coffee, for the first, time was brought into the county. It was kept by Mr. Graham, the merchant, a year and a half, and sent back as being alto- gether unsaleable. Yet the sons and daughters of these very people, now consume not far from 50,000 pounds in a single twelve-month.
The opening of the Fincastle and Cumberland Gap turnpike in 183-, furnished another market to the merchant; goods were now purchased in the northern cities, and shipped to Lynchburg, and were thence brought to the county by wagons. About fifteen days is the usual time which elapses from the day of loading in Lynchburg, to the time of arrival in Jeffersonville. Freight is about two dollars and fifty cents per cwt. There is now brought
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into the county annually, dry goods and groceries to the amount of one hundred and twenty-five thousand dollars. The percentage on goods sold here is considerable, owing partly to the freight, and to the credit system which prevails.
Feathers, beeswax, ginseng, hides, tallow, butter, and wool, are usually bought by the merchants, or bartered for goods. We have no market for wheat, corn, potatoes, oats, hay, buckwheat, or barley.
Cattle are driven to the north-eastern part of the state, and sold to speculators, who fatten and dispose of them in Baltimore, and the nothern cities. Hogs are usually driven to the east and south-east part of the state. Horses are driven south and east-generally into North Carolina. Much of the live stock is bought on credit, and paid for upon the return of the drovers. This accounts for the credit system of the county. The merchants have claims upon the people of the county, for upward of one hundred and forty thousand dollars, but this is a small sum, when we consider that the stock trade alone, brings to the county every year upward of one hundred and ten thousand dollars.
As soon as the Virginia and Tennessee railroad has been completed to Wythville (which will be during the year 1852), this over-balancing will be in favor of the farmer, in place of the merchant. The percentage on im- portations will not be so great, and the expense of exporting will likewise be lessened. The grains will find a market, and many farmers will buy most of their necessaries themselves. Instead of driving cattle to the N. E. counties of Virginia, they will, most likely, be driven to Saltville, slaugh- tered, pickled up, and sent to a different market. It is to be greatly lament- ed that efficient steps have not been taken to get a branch from the main road extending into Tazewell county. Could the central road pass us and go to the mouth of Big Sandy river, as it should, we should also find a market for our coal, which is exhaustless, and of the finest qualiry.
There is at no time over twenty thousand dollars, in active circulation in the county. Large amounts of small bills, issues of the Tennessee, Kentucky, Washington City, and North Carolina banks, are to be seen; and though it is a violation of the laws, to receive or pass them, no attention is paid to it, either by the people or the commonwealth.
HOME MANUFACTURES.
Linsey, jeans, tow-linen, flax-thread, hose, and carpets, are the principal home manufactures of this county: the value of which, according to the census report, is twenty-five thousand four hundred dollars. I have no data from which to estimate the amount of either, but am satisfied that jeans linsey, stand first in valuation. Tow-linen, which sells for about ten cents per yard, does not cost the Tazewell manufacturer far short of thirty cents. A like statement might be made about the whole list.
These articles are manufactured at the houses of the farmers, their planations supplying all the material, except cotton, which is imported from North Carolina, spun and put up in bales. Wool is carded by machines in the county, and spun by hand. The weaving is done on the common hand-
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BICKLEY'S HISTORY OF TAZEWELL COUNTY, VA.
loom. House furniture, of nearly all kinds, is manufactured in the county. Saddles, boots, shoes, iron-work, etc., is also done here. Lumber of the finest quality, may here be had, for the trouble of cutting it.
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