USA > Virginia > Tazewell County > Tazewell County > History of the Settlement and Indian Wars of Tazewell County, Virginia: With a Map, Statistical. > Part 4
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FORMATION, AND CUTLINE GEOGRAPHY.
somewhat in the following manner. . Simon Cotterel, who was the representative from Russell in 1799, having been authorized to apply for the formation of a new county, drew . up a bill, and proposed it on the 18th of December, 1799, but met with the most violent opposition from Mr. Tazewell, a member from Norfolk county, and a relative of L. W. Taze- well then in Congress. Cotterel rose in his seat, and begged · the gentleman to withhold his remarks till his bill was ma- . tured, to which he assented. Cotterel erased the proposed name and inserted that of Tazewell, and the next day (19th), presented his bill thus amended. Tazewell was silenced; the bill passed, receiving Tazewell's vote. To this stratagem the . county is indebted for its name.
The county is bounded on the north by the State of Ken- tucky, Logan and Wyoming counties, Virginia; on the east by Mercer and Giles; on the south by Wythe and Smyth, and on the west by Russell. It has a superficial area of about 1,920,000 square acres, or 3000 square miles, and is traversed by numerous ranges of the Alleghany and Cumber- , land mountains. Clinch, one of the principal mountains, passes through it in an easterly and westerly direction, about forty miles. This mountain was named, as will be seen in the chapter on mountains, in consequence of the Clinch river. Rich mountain passes through the county about twenty miles ; it is a branch of the Grinch." Garden and Brushy mountains are in the southern part of the county, the latter being the county line; they run parallel with Clinch mountain. Paint Lick and Deskin's mountains are also parallel and north of
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FORMATION, AND OUTLINE GEOGRAPHY. . 61
the Rich mountain. They are parts of the same range with East river and Elk-horn, being separated by the Clinch river, in the valley in which stands the town of Jeffersonville. There are no other mountains deserving of notice, at this place, except the Great Flat Top, in the north-east corner of the county.
The county is traversed by many streams; some of con- siderable size; the principal of which are Clinch river, Bluestone, La Visee, Dry, and Tug forks of Sandy river and their branches. The Clinch river rises from three springs; the first on the "divides," about ten miles east of the town of Jeffersonville; the second in the valley between Elk-horn and Rich mountains ; the third in Thompson's valley, about eight miles south-east of the county seat. The two first unite about one and a half miles east of Jeffersonville, and flow, in a westerly direction, about twenty-five miles, and unite with the Maiden-spring fork, and thence flow through Russell, Scott, Lee, and a part of Tennessee, and, after re- ceiving the Powell river, empty into the Tennessee about sixty miles above Kingston.
Bluestone creek rises in the eastern part of the county ; flows in a north easterly direction, and empties into the Great Kanawha. The different branches (see Map) of the Sandy river, rising in this county, flow in a northerly direction and empty into the Ohio. The county is well watered. The cli- mate and soil are treated of, in other places, under appropriate heads (which see) ; as also, the manners, customs, etc. Jef- fersonville is the county seat.
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CLIMATE.
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CHAPTER IV.
CLIMATE.
WINTER IN TAZEWELL.
OWING to its elevation, the climate, in winter, is more severe than in the surrounding counties. Snow appears generally before the commencement of the first winter month. The inhabitants, at this season, are much exposed in feeding and caring for their stock. Ice is seldom seen over six inches thick, and attains that thickness only a few times in the course of the winter. Less snow falls than would be sup- posed, from the latitude and elevation of the country. It lies but a short time, and is generally succeeded by rain, which is plentiful at this season. The water-courses are usually high during the winter, though seldom impassable, except for a short time immediately after long rainy spells. The reflec- tion of light from the mountains, when covered with snow, renders a sunny day remarkably light: and to this circum -. stance is owing the absence of that gloomy appearance so often seen in level countries during the winter; except, in- deed, when snow is falling, at which time the mountains are · obscured and a death-like shadow is cast over everything. During the winter season the country presents a business air to be seen at few other seasons of the year. This is owing to the return of the drovers, who supply the people with the almighty dollar, the influence of which is felt everywhere.
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CLIMATE.
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Its plentiful presence seems to instil life, energy, and action into those ordinarily lethargic and idle. Contracts, based upon the credit system, are now discharged and pledged faith redeemed.
During the middle of winter comes Christmas, with all its joys and pleasures. It is here celebrated as in England four hundred years ago. The young people 'commence the dance, which is kept up for several weeks. The figures are mostly the variety of reels. The violin, triangle, and tambourine, constitute the band.
Dancing is an amusement greatly loved by' the people of Tazewell and in which they excel. The intimacy and good cheer existing at these gatherings (in which even the older people sometimes participate), will doubtless account for the general good feeling which exists among the people of the county, and which is proverbial.
The, new year steals in amid . all their hilarity, and is welcomed with hearty good-will. The end of winter puts a stop to all these amusements, and the people return to the plow, the loom, and the anvil.
SPRING.
Spring, which succeeds the cold and amusements, is the most beautiful season imaginable. At the earliest dawn of spring, the sap begins to flow in the sugar-maple (Acer saccha- rinum), and then begins the process of sugar-making. This is effected by boring auger holes in the body of the tree, and introducing part of an alder stalk, or something of the kind, to
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OLIMATE.
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serve as a conductor for the sap, which falls in a trough, and is conveyed in pails thence to the kettles, where it is boiled . into sugar. The water is evaporated while the saccharine principle remains. It is a dark, compact sugar, which might be improved by slightly altering the mode of manufacture. . The following remarks are taken from a work published by the American Tract Society: "The sugar maple is a beau- tiful tree, reaching the height of seventy or eighty feet, the body straight, for a long distance free from limbs, and three or four feet in diameter at the base. It grows in colder climates, between latitudes 42 and 48, and on the Alleghanies to their southern termination, extending westward beyond lake Superior. The wood is nearly equal to hickory, for fuel, and is used for building, for ships, and various manufactures. When tapped, as the winter gives place to spring, a tree, in a few weeks, will produce five or six pailsful of sap, which is sweet and pleasant as a drink, and when boiled down will make about half as many pounds of sugar. The manufacturer, selecting a spot central among his trees, erects a temporary shelter, suspends his kettles over a smart fire, and at the close of a day or two will have fifty or a hundred pounds of sugar, which is equal to the common west India sugar, and when refined equals the finest in flavor and beauty.
"When the sap has been boiled to a sirup and is turning to molasses, then to candy, and then graining into sugar, its . flavor is delightful, especially when the candy is cooled on the
- snow. On this occasion the manufacturer expects his wife,' children, and friends, if near, to enjoy the scene." The
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THE SUGAR CAMP.
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CLIMATE. 67
person in the engraving on page 65, is represented as' blowing the candy or wax, to ascertain how far the boiling has advanced. 41,341 pounds are annually manufactured in Tazewell county.
When the sugar-making season is over, spring has fairly begun; though few trees exhibit full grown leaves, those of the maple and buckeye, or horse chesnut (Esculus glabra), being earliest. The soft green foliage of these trees, the few spring flowers, the verdant meadows, the sweet warbling of forest birds, and general activity of the animal kingdom, make this the paradisian era of the year. By the first of June, nothing can exceed the beauty of this mountain region; the hill sides are variegated with a profusion of flowers; sweet odors stimulate the olfactories at the inhalation of every breath, and these
"Pleasant breezes, and alight showers, And the sweet odor of flowers,"
produce a carelessness, and happy contentedness, known to few other than oriental lands.
SUMMER.
This does not differ much, in appearance, from spring; yet materially in its effects. The grains are now nearly ready for harvesting, except corn, which is not gathered till fall. The summers are warm for a country so elevated, yet not so warm as the surrounding counties: there is, too, less rain at this season. But little traveling is done, and business dull ; the farmers being closely engaged at home. About the
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CLIMATE.
fourth of July harvest begins, and continues several weeks. This ended, the farmers begin to gather their cattle for the drovers, who carry from the county, annually, about 7,000 head, starting usually in the latter part of August and beginning of September. At times, the roads may be seen lined with cattle for miles, many of them passing through the county, from Kentucky and Tennessee, on their way to the eastern markets. The labors of the farm slacken till frost appears.
AUTUMN.
Fall is remarkable for the great beauty of the decaying foliage. Numerous plants are now in full bloom, and with the varied colors of the forest, present a sight of loveliness rarely seen. The nights become cooler, till fire is required, and soon in the month of October frost appears. Snow some- times falls in this month, but most generally, not till No- vember.
Soon after the appearance of frost, in October, the Indian summer sets in-a season as beautiful as its name. The air is pleasant, and a smoky haze fills the atmosphere.
This season, of all others, would be preferred for a per- petual climate. It lasts from ten days to three weeks. Many beautiful Indian love-tales are connected with this season, but are better suited to the pages of a magazine than this place. The seasons of Tazewell are objectionable only for one thing, viz: sudden changes, as mentioned under the head of Meteorology.
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METEOROLOGY.
CHAPTER V.
METEOROLOGY.
IMPORTANT as this subject is to the farmer, little attention has been paid to it. Few, I am persuaded, have appreciated its importance: and until our farmers avail themselves of the important laws, and consequent deductions which it has brought to light, we need not expect to see our lands pro- ducing their proportionate amount of sustenance.
Meteorology, is the sicentific designation of that science which treats of the atmosphere, and its varied phenomena. It is an essential part of a farmer's education, and without a knowledge of its principles, he must act upon the rude systems which have been conjured up by the wild super- stitions of his fathers, in whose maxims he sees all science.
The every-day experience of any farmer will satisfy him that light, heat, air, temperature, etc., play an important part in the vegetable, as well as in the animal worlds .*
The following remarks are based upon the observations of two winters and a summer. I have, also, availed myself of some of the current opinions which exist among the more learned farmers of the county. From the nature of the country-mountainous and much elevated, as mentioned in another place almost every variety of climate, from 36° to 50° N. latitude, is to be found in certain localities of the
* The importance of this subject, is set forth by Daniel Lee, M. D. See Report of Commissioner of Patents-part II, 1849; art. Agricultural Meteorology.
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METEOROLOGY.
county. The climate of Quebec and Charleston alike exist; the former on the mountain-peaks, and the latter in the deepest valleys. Owing to this fact it is difficult to give correct meteorological information, unless observations had been made at different places.
I give the result at Jeffersonville, as being probably near the mean of the county.
The mean temperature for the Winter months is 30° Fahr.
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Summer 66
78 66
66 66
66 Fall 66 61
The fall of rain in the
Winter months, is 274 inch.
Spring
16g
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Summer 66 84
66 1 66
Fall
6₺
66
Spring 66
52
66
Thus we have 54° as the mean temperature, and 58g inches of rain, during the year; which gives to each season 14} inches, and to each day 0.1599 inches, or about { of an inch.
Snow falls in the valleys from the first of November to the first of April, and on the mountain tops, a little sooner and later. Its early fall, in autumn, destroys large quantities of timber, the leaves of which catch the snow till the weight becomes insupportable. The branches, and sometimes the body, giving way, fill the roads with fragments, rendering them impassable.
The winds vary very much, with the direction of the valleys, and it is often difficult to determine their real course;
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METEOROLOGY.
every valley seeming to draw a current through it. West, N. W. and east winds, prevail; though southerly winds sometimes blow for a short time. Northerly winds usually produce fair weather, while Easterly winds bring rain. Much rain is required for the soil, hence, vegetation shoots with the greatest rapidity during the wet season of spring.
The general temperature seems to be higher than it formerly was, there being less snow, and ice, during the winters, as well as less rain, than during the first years of settlement. This, no doubt, is owing to the loss of timber on the cleared lands; it is the only way in which we can account for this change of climate. This explanation has the sanction of Baron Von Humboldt (see his Cosmos), tham whom no man was a better judge, or closer observer of this department of nature.
The dry season, in the beginning of summer, sometimes does much mischief, not only to vegetation, but to man's health. The effects of light upon the soil, are nowhere more perceptible than here. The number of rays of light, falling at right angles on the south sides of the mountains during a greater part of the year, seems to have quite exhausted the soil, especially near the summits. On the north sides of the mountains, even from the tops, the soil is of the finest quality, and very productive. From this we should con- clude, that to preserve and foster the productive energy of the soil, it requires shading. Changes of temperature are very sudden, the thermometer sometimes sinking rapidly from 70° to 20° Fahr., remaining so a few hours, and then
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METEOROLOGY.
rising as rapidly again, to 60° or 70°. This irregularity con- stitutes an objection to the climate, which, it is to be hoped, will be removed when the lands are entirely cleared up.
It is certainly a great pity, that meteorological investiga- tions have not been instituted in this country; and it is still more unfortunate, that the farming community should have paid so little attention to a subject which so seriously affects their dearest interests.
"If a small portion of. the talent and public patronage of this country could be turned to the study of vegetable and animal physiology, in their connection with farm economy, and to chemistry, entomology, agricultural geology, and meteorology, unquestionably, the average of our wheat, corn, and cotton crops, would soon be doubled."*
The farmers of this region have long believed that a plain English education, i. e., to read, write, and cipher, was all sufficient for a farmer, and hence science has been discarded as useless. The truth is, we need a scientific farmer's school, founded upon Socrates' idea of useful knowledge -- to teach that, which would admit of application. We have too many schools where the mere theory of life and its means are taught.
* Lee-Patent Office Report, Part II, 1849.
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DESCRIPTIVE GEOGRAPHY.
CHAPTER VI.
DESCRIPTIVE GEOGRAPHY.
MOUNTAINS. -
THE principal mountains of Tazewell are Clinch, Rich, East River, Brushy, Garden, Paint Lick, Deskins, and Flat Top. They have an elevation, above. the valleys, of about eighteen hundred feet, and about three thousand above the level of the sea. For remarks upon their geological formation I would refer the reader to the Transactions of the Jefferson- ville Historical Society. The general course of these moun- tains is N. 67º E.
Clinch mountain, which receives its name from Clinch river, extends through the entire length of the county. It has several gaps, through which wagon-roads pass.
Rich mountain, so called from the character of its soil, is a branch or spur of Clinch mountain, running parallel to it its entire length.
East River mountain, so called from a stream of that name flowing along near its base, begins a few miles east of Jeffer- sonville, and runs parallel to the Rich mountain to the county line on the east.
Brushy mountain, receiving its name from the brushy char- acter of its growth on the south side, runs in the same direc- tion as the Clinch, and forms the southern boundary line of the county. j
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74 DESCRIPTIVE GEOGRAPHY.
Paint Lick mountain is a continuation of the House and Barn mountain in Russell county, and is separated from it by the Maiden Spring fork, of Clinch river. There was once a geat elk and deer lick, near its western end, and there are many paintings (still visible), supposed to have been executed by the Shawanoe Indians, or perhaps, by the Cherokees. The paintings represent birds, women, Indian warriors, etc. From these paintings, the lick was named, which was soon applied to the mountain. It rises near the western county line, and runs in the general direction to near Jeffersonville: it here sinks, to admit the passage of another fork of Clinch river, and again rises, forming Elkhorn mountain.
Deskins' mountain, so called from an early settler, runs parallel, and near the Paint lick, for about the same distance.
The Great Flat Top, rises from a spur of the Cumberland mountains, which traverses the county. It is in the north- east corner of the county, and on it, corner Tazewell, Mercer, and Wyoming counties. It receives its name from a large level area on its summit.
To notice the remaining small mountains and great ridges, would occupy too much space. The northern part of the county is much cut up with them, and renders it almost valueless for farming purposes. For grazing, however, it cannot be excelled.
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VALLEYS.
The principal valleys, are the Clinch, Abb's, Poor, Baptist, Thompson's, and Deskins'. They are not so wide as those
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DESCRIPTIVE GEOGRAPHY.
of the adjoining counties, yet sufficiently broad, to afford room for some beautiful farms.
Clinch valley, through which flows the north fork of Clinch river, and from which it was named, is the most important, and, perhaps, contains the best lands in the county. In it is located the seat of justice, and through it passes the Fincastle and Cumberland Gap turnpike.
Abb's valley, so called from Absalom Looney, the first white settler, is a narrow, but beautiful and fertile valley. under which runs a creek of considerable size, its entire length of about twelve miles-It is much celebrated, in con- sequence of the horrible massacres which were perpetrated in it.
Poor valley, is between Clinch and Brushy mountains: it is narrow, and the lands poorer, than most of the surrounding country ; yet, in point of mineral wealth, it is one of the richest valleys in the county. It is several hundred feet lower than the adjoining valleys.
Thompson's valley, between Rich and Clinch mountains, is one of the most beautiful in the county: The lands are good and in a high state of cultivation. It is from two to three miles wide, and was so called from a large family residing in it, and who were among its earliest settlers.
Baptist valley, was so named from the number of persons belonging to the Baptist denomination of Christians, who settled in it. It is a valley of some importance, the Tazewell C. H. and Kentucky turnpike passing through its entire length.
Deskins' valley, between a range of hills, and Deskins'
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DESCRIPTIVE GEOGRAPHY.
mountain, received its name from an early settler. There are some fine farms in it, though the valley is small.
RIVERS AND OREEKS.
Clinch is the principal, and Sandy, the most important in the county. The latter heads in the county, and is navigable to the county line, for flat-boats. East river, Tug, and Blue- stone creek, are considerable streams.
Clinch river heads in this county, and receives its name from an incident which occurred on it in 1767. A hunter named Castle, left Augusta and went to what is now Russell county, to hunt with a party of friendly Indians, who were living on it. This tribe made frequent visits to the settle- ment, carrying of horses, and such other stock as they could get hold of. A man named Harman, who was robbed of some things, and believing Castle to be the instigator to these acts, applied to a Mr. Buchanan, a justice of Augusta, for a writ to arrest Castle and bring him to trial. The writ was issued, and a party raised to arrest him, among whom, was a lame man named Clinch. The party went to Castle's camp, and attempted to arrest him, but the Indians joined Castle, and Harman's party were forced to retreat across the river.
In the hurry of the moment, Clinch got behind, and while fording the river was shot by an Indian, who rushed forward to secure his scalp, but was shot by one of Harman's party. The vulgar tradition is, that an Indian was pursuing a white man, who clenched, and drowned the Indian in the stream.
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DESCRIPTIVE GEOGRAPHY.
I had the former statement, however, from a grandson of the magistrate who issued the warrant for Castle's apprehension.
As before stated, the river rises in the county, east of Jeffersonville, running in a westerly direction, and receiving numerous small streams, till it reaches what is known as New Garden, in Russell county. It is then joined by the Maiden Spring fork, which rises in Thompson's valley, flows a short distance, sinks several miles, and rises again near what is known as Maiden Spring, owned by Col. Rees T. Bowen, and one of the loveliest places in Tazewell. This spring is named also, from an incident which happened to Rees Bowen, the earliest settler near it, and grandfather of its present owner.
When Mr. Bowen first saw the spring, he discovered a fine young female deer, feeding on the moss within the orifice from which gushes the spring. He shot it, and when he went to get his deer, saw a pair of elk horns standing on their points, and leaning against the rocks. Mr. Bowen, was a very large and tall man, yet he had no difficulty in walking upright under the horns. He chose this place for his home, and the spring and river, have since been known as Maiden Spring and Fork.
The Sandy river has several branches heading in this county, the most important of which, are the La Visee, Dry, and Tug Forks.
La Visee, has many branches in Tazewell, and is navi- gable for flat-boats, to the county line. The first white man who ascended it, was a Frenchman, who found a well-executed
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DESCRIPTIVE GEOGRAPHY.
design, or painting upon a peeled poplar; hence its name- "la," translated, meaning the, and " visee," meaning a de- sign, aim, or representation. It is sometimes called Louisa fork, from Louisa C. H., Kentucky, near its junction with the Tug river.
The Dry fork, heads about six miles N. W. from Jeffer- sonville, and flows into the Tug river. So named, because the waters on it get very low during the summer.
The Tug river, is named from an incident which took place in 1756. "Maj. Andrew Lewis was appointed to command this expedition (one ordered by Gov. Dinwiddie, to march against the Shawanoes on the Ohio), and directed to proceed against the Shawnee villages, near the mouth of the Great Kanawha. Maj. Lewis led his men, through great peril and suffering, within a few miles of the Ohio, when a messenger, ordering a return of the expedition, reached him. The whole party suffered intensely during this march, and once were reduced to the necessity of cutting their buffalo- skins into tugs, and eating them; hence the name Tug River."* The river is in the northern part of the county, and abounds in fine fish. It is too much obstructed by falls, to be navigable at any stage of water.
East river, so called from the direction which it flows, is a small stream, emptying into the Kanawha.
Bluestone creek or river, also, flows east, and is re- markable for the clear blue color of its waters; hence its
* De Hass's History of Western Virginia, pages 202-3.
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