USA > Virginia > Tazewell County > Tazewell County > History of the Settlement and Indian Wars of Tazewell County, Virginia: With a Map, Statistical. > Part 8
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There is also silver, but to what extent I cannot say, on a string of ridges north of Clinch river.
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Iron is so abundant that it is hard to find a section desti- tute of it. The best specimen I ever saw, was lately placed in the cabinet of the Jeffersonville Historical Society, by Mr. Rufus Brittain. Ore, of this county, was worked at an early day, by a man named Johnson, which was pronounced to be of a good quality. The ore is, generally, specular and magnetic oxides, and would admit of being worked to ad- vantage.
The mineral wealth of the county, will likely not be known, till there is a greater demand for it. As soon as our lands are impoverished, gypsum will be taken from the earth and scattered over them. And when the demand is sufficient, we shall manufacture large quantities of sulphur. Many saline springs exist, from which salt will be manufactured at no distant day. There is, within four miles of Jeffer- sonville, on the lands of Mr. Thomas Witten, every indica- cation of a good salt stream. The county has already pro- duced much niter.
Coal exists everywhere, though wood is so plenty that it has not been used as fuel to any extent; hence, no search has been made for it. Bituminous, and, probably, cannel coal, exist in great quantity. The nearest to Jeffersonville, that has yet been discovered, is on the lands of G. W. G. Browne, in Poor valley, about four and a half miles from' Jeffersonville. It is generally thought that coal does not exist on the head branches of Clinch river, but I imagine the supposition has no foundation. It has been found below, and in every direction around, and no doubt, exists generally
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through the county. When shall we have an outlet for this coal ?
NATURAL CURIOSITIES.
There are, in the county, many natural curiosities, such as caves, precipices, bone caverns, etc. A cave, running under Rich mountain, has excited some curiosity. I am informed, by Mr. Thompson, who has explored it, that it is one of the most magnificent caves in the country, as yet known. The ceiling, in some places, being so high, that the best torch light will not discover it; nor will a stone, thrown from the hand, reach it. A fine stream flows through it, in which fish are said to exist. It is nearly destitute of those rugged cliffs, usually to be found in such places.
During winter, vast numbers of bats (Oreillard insecti- vora) are to be seen; some, fastening themselves to the ceiling, are seized on by others, and these again by others, till. they sometimes form lengthy bunches, resembling a swarm of bees after they have pitched. On placing the flame of a candle near them, they set up a piteous cry, which is generally plaintive enough to divert the destroyer's hand. It would be an endless task, to give a description of half the caves to be found in the county. There is much sameness about them. They are, frequently, the receptacle of vast numbers of human bones, of an extraordinary size, and thought to be those of an extinct race, formerly inhabiting this region.
Stalactites* are usually found in these caves, many of which
* From stalazo, to drop. Water, holding lime in solution, drops regularly at
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are beautiful. It is said that a cave, near Liberty Hill, ex- hibits the prints of human feet, in the solid rocks : this may, or may not be true, for I never had bravery enough to take . pleasure in examining caverns. If they are really to be seen, I think they may be accounted for, by supposing that some miner, in search of niter, had entered and left his tracks upon the mould usually to be found in such places. The abundance of iron existing in some kinds of clay, seems to keep the lapidifying, or rock-making process, constantly pro- gressing, so that what were mere tracks in the clay, sixty years ago, may now be impressions in solid rock. In confirm- ation, I beg to mention the following incident, related to me by Mr. William Thompson, a worthy citizen of the county. In 1805, Mr. Thompson killed a snake, which was thrown in a hollow, or bottom, on a large, exposed stratum of rock. Heavy rains caused the submersion of the rock, and when the water dried up, it was found that the rock was covered several inches in clay. In 1813, or eight years after, the clay was washed off by heavy rains, and behold, there was the ser- pent, which had become a part of the rock, as may be seen to this day. I ask, if some of our scientific gentlemen had seen this snake, without knowing the circumstances, would they not most likely have pronounced it an antediluvian work? That this conclusion of the present progress of lapid- ification is true, I offer another example. There are, in the
. one place, and deposits the lime in long rods, often hollow ; these are called stalactites.
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northern part of the county, rocks bearing the impressions of buffalo tracks, too plain to be mistaken.
Petrifactions constitute no small share of our natural curiosities. I have elsewhere referred to a spring, in the northern part of the county, having the property of petrify- ing. In the western part of the county, about eighteen miles from Jeffersonville, is a location where great quantities of petrified turtles, snakes, lizards, etc., etc., are found. On the road leading to Abingdon, at what is known as Thomp- son's Gap, petrified or fossil ducks, frogs, and a variety of other reptiles were found, when grading the road across the mountain. Fossil remains are so abundant that it is useless to attempt to describe them. At Maiden Spring, on the lands of the Messrs. Bowens, 'are limestone rocks containing great quantities of fishes. I have in my possession the major part of a fish much resembling a dolphin, which is pure flint of hardest texture.
While searching for Indian paintings on Paint Lick mountain, in company with Col. Rees T. Bowen, we dis- covered a thin stratum of Medina sandstone, composed almost entirely of fossil fucoids. The larger and less solid parts of the stems are not so well preserved. We traced the stratum about one and a half miles, along the mountain, and know not how much farther it may extend. I suppose the stratum to be about two hundred feet below the surface, with an inclination of 60°. It can be reached only by entering the clefts of the mountain. Myself and the Col. were fatigued, and accidentally sat down to rest near a cleft from which a
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few fragments of the rock had broken, and rolled down the mountain side. The discovery of a small piece, led us into the search; specimens of this rock may be seen in the cabinet of the Historical Society. As I have been often asked to account for this collection of fucoids, perhaps the most re- markable in the world, I beg to offer the following remarks, premising, that as I am not writing for the information of geologists in particular, I shall avoid technicalities:
Fucoides Harlani is only one species of the family Algea. It occurs almost invariably in, and is, therefore, a type of, Medina sandstone. The stratum here referred to, is found upon the ridge of the Alleghany or Appalachian chain of mountains during their whole course, and even farther than these extend. It is to be found in New York, Pennsylvania, Virginia, N. Carolina, Georgia, and many other sections remote from this chain of mountains.
Let us suppose that at a remote period, the surface of the earth was nearly level, and, as is most likely true, the sea covered the continent, and that the Fucoides Harlani, which is a native of the sea (hence its common name, sea- weed), was beaten down by the force of the waves, or dying, became specific- ally too heavy to keep upon the surface. It was then deposited on the bottom of the sea, and other matter depositing itself over this, it became lapidified; and upon the lapidification of other strata, in the course of a long series of years, the Fucoides Harlani became an under stratum; and hence we find it now deep in the bowels of the earth. Then, the same convulsion of nature which caused the upheaving of the mountains, raised this stratum to its present elevated position, which is about 1400 feet above the bed of the Clinch river.
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WATERS.
CHAPTER XVI.
WATERS.
THE waters of Tazewell are both numerous, and of fine quality. White, blue, red, salt, sweet and warm sulphur springs; chalybeate, iodureted, carbonated, alum, lime, and freestone springs are abundant. Perhaps no county in the state exhibits such a variety of waters as this; yet so little has been done to inform the valetudinarian of our mineral waters, that they are almost a useless appendage to our county. In truth, mineral waters are so common, that it excites no interest to speak of them. Only a few of our springs have been analyzed, a circumstance to be regretted.
The Tazewell White Sulphur springs, now owned by Thos. H. Gillespie, are four miles west of Jeffersonville. Those wishing to spend a season in retirement, can find no more suitable place than at the Tazewell White Sulphur. When I say retirement, I do not mean that they will see no one else, or never hear the enlivening ring of the violin, for a considerable number are to be found here every season; the dance is as- sumed at the pleasure of the company ; in fact, most amuse- ments usually found at watering-places, are here offered to the visitor. But the visitors are mostly ladies and gentlemen from the adjoining counties, who are seeking to restore lost health, rather than. to find pleasure. The little expense, the
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good fare, the beauty of the mountain scenery, the purity and salubrity of the air, the excellent quality of the water, and conveniences. of the establishment, render it at once attractive to the valetudinarian.
Six miles east of Jeffersonville, are Taylor's springs. Here, as at the Holston springs, are a variety of waters; six kinds, clearly different, rise from as many springs within a few feet of each other.
There is a spring in Baptist valley, about eighteen miles west of the C. H., belonging to Mr. Spotts, somewhat im- pregnated with alum. When I examined this spring, it had but a short time before been cleaned out, and had rather an earthy taste-the water is strongly tinctured with iron, a circumstance which has led some to question the existence of alum in it at all. There is, however, a small quantity of alum, yet not enough to render the springs notable.
A spring, said to contain iodine, rises upon the lands of Mr. Crockett, near Jeffersonville.
A sweet spring, without any trace of sulphur, but con- taining much iron, breaks out from the south side of Clinch mountain, in the Poor valley; but as few know even its loca- tion, its medicinal properties have not been properly tested. It is known to be highly cathartic, and my guide to its location, declares it cured him of dropsy when the phy- sicians failed. It was a very cold day in winter, and the snow falling, fast, when I visited it, so my observations were imperfect.
Springs slightly salty are so common, that no attention has
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been paid to them. Their existence might yet prove to be the index to the existence of vast quantities of salt.
I am informed by Mr. Wynn, that a warm spring gushes from the base of Round mountain, in the south-east corner of the county, and that on the summit of the mountain, there is a spot the temperature of which is so high, that snow never lies on it half an hour after its fall, and generally melts while falling.
That kind of water used for culinary and ordinary pur- poses, is more important, however, to the people of the county, than any other; I mean the common blue limestone. This kind of water is used in all parts of the county, except that which is drained by the Sandy river. This blue lime- stone water has only one objection: it is rather hard, and is thought, by some, to operate to the injury of both the digestive and urinary organs. (See further remarks upon this opinion, in the chapter on General Health.)
The springs usually have a temperature of 45° to 50° Fahr., during the summer, and about the same in winter. The average for a summer and a winter month was 49° Fahr. . Except in a few instances, the occurrence of heavy rains, seems to affect the amount of water discharged, very slightly. I think that the quantity of lime in our water is, perhaps, less than in some other sections in the south-west. To the taste, no water can excel ours; it is true, that when persons formerly in the habit of using freestone water, commence using ours, it proves pleasantly aperient; this is owing to the presence of magnesia.
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HEALTH OF TAZEWELL.
HEALTH OF TAZEWELL.
This county is not at present so healthy as one would sup- pose from its character in other respects. This, I imagine, may be easily accounted for. One of the most prominent causes of disease in any mountain country, where disease prevails, will be found to be the want of comfortable buildings. Some are too close-others too open-others want light, and .others are too damp. The country being incapable of producing malaria, is, of course, exempt from miasmatic diseases. The only disease worthy of particular notice, is what is known among our physicians as typhoid fever, but which will most generally answer to some form of pneumonia. It seems to be generated entirely from exposure, and does not assume a serious form except in inclement seasons.
Here is to be met with a greater variety of disease than I have anywhere seen. The quality of the water may account for the numerous cases arising from derangement of the digestive apparatus. I know that my position will be dis- puted by those who have cherished, from their cradles, the idea that no waters are so healthy as those of the mountains; yet, this should not prevent me from stating my opinions, and the reasons why I entertain them.
There are living in the town of Jeffersonville, five physicians, who get a reasonable amount of practice; and, so far as I have conversed with them, they all de- clare, that if the diseases arising from the digestive ap- paratus be discarded, that there will not remain sufficient practice for two of the five. Now what should impair
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the digestion in this region more than any other, if it be not the water?
That this county, naturally, is superlatively healthy, no one will doubt; and as soon as a little more attention is paid to the laws of life, and the quality of our mountain water, we may expect to see a decided improvement. It is high time that my brethren of the grade-glass and mortar, were investi- gating this subject.
CHAPTER XVII.
MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.
UNDER such a general head, I could say but little for the information of my readers, I shall therefore, introduce several subjects, properly belonging to this place. And I must ask such of the sons and daughters of the noble people whose habits form a theme for my pen, who are either vain or proud, to forgive me for exhibiting their fathers and mothers, in such a light as I necessarily must. I too, am of these people, and hope I am as sensitive of my ancestors, as the vainest or the proudest.
The people of all mountain-countries have some customs peculiarly their own. The same pastoral simplicity which · characterizes the people of the Scotch highlands, the moun- tainous regions of Europe, and the hill country of ancient
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Judea, may be here clearly traced. The same industry, love for stock, determination to be free, hatred of oppression, pure sentiment, etc., are found here.
DRESS OF THE EARLY SETTLERS. .
That worn by the men, has already been described; that worn by the women, is well described by Dr. Doddridge, in the words, "linsey coats and bedgowns," which he says "were the universal dress of women in early times," and further suggested "that they would make a strange figure at the present day."
The garments made in Augusta, Botetourt, and other older settlements, had worn out, and a different material was brought into use. The weed now known among us as wild nettle (Urtica dioica), then furnished the material which served to clothe the persons of our sires and dames. It was cut down while yet green, and treated much in the same manner in which flax is now treated. The fibrous bark, with the exception of the shortness of the fibers, seemed to be adapted to the same uses. When this flax, if I may so term it, was prepared, it was mixed with buffalo hair and woven into a substantial cloth, in which the men and women were clothed. It is a true maxim, "necessity is the mother of invention."
HOUSE FURNITURE.
"The furniture for the table, for several years after the settlement of this county, consisted of a few pewter dishes, plates, and spoons; but mostly of wooden bowls, trenchers, 10
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and noggins. If these last were scarce, gourds and hard- shelled squashes, made up the deficiency. Iron pots, knives and forks, were brought from the east, with the salt and iron, on pack-horses."
"These articles of furniture corresponded very well with the articles of diet. 'Hog and hominy,' were proverbial for the dish of which they were the component parts. Johnny-cake and pone were, at the first settlement of the country, the only forms of bread in use for breakfast and dinner. At supper, milk and mush was the standing dish. When milk was not plenty, which was often the case, owing to the searcity of cattle, or the want of proper pasture for them, the substantial dish of hominy had to supply the place of them; mush was frequently eaten with sweetened water, molasses, bears' oil, or the gravy of fried meat."
"In our whole display of furniture, the delft, china, and silver, were unknown. It did not then, as now, require con- tributions from the four quarters of the globe, to furnish the . breakfast table, viz: the silver from Mexico; the coffee from the West Indies; the tea from China; and the delft and porce- lain from Europe or Asia. Yet, a homely fare, and un- sightly cabins and furniture, produced a hardy race, who planted the first footsteps of civilization in the immense regions of the west. Inured to hardship, bravery and labor from their early youth, they sustained with manly fortitude the fatigue of the chase, the campaign and scout, and with strong arms 'turned the wilderness into fruitful fields,2 and have left to their descendants the rich inheritance of an
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immense empire, blessed with peace, and wealth, and pros- perity."*
THE WEDDING.
A wedding is thus described by Dr. Doddridge, and from what I have seen and can learn, a more faithful picture could not be drawn of a pioneer wedding:
"For a long time after the first settlement of this country, the inhabitants in general married young. There was no distinction of rank, and very little. of fortune .. On these ao- counts, the first impression of love, resulted in marriage, and a family establishment cost but. little labor, and nothing else. " A description of a wedding, from beginning to end, will serve to show the manners of our forefathers, and mark the grade of civilization which has succeeded to their rude state. of society, in the course of a few years.
"In the first years of the settlement of & country, a wedding engaged the attention of a whole neighborhood; and the frolic was anticipated by old and young, with eager expectation. This is not. to be wondered at, when it is told that a wedding was almost the only gathering which was not accompanied with the labor of reaping, log-rolling, building a cabin, or planning some: scout or campaign .. On the morn- ing of the wedding-day, the groom and his attendants, assembled at the house of his father, for the purpose of reaching the home of his bride by noon, which was the usual time for celebrating the nuptials; and which, for certain' reasons, must take place before dinner ..
· Doddridge:
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"Let the reader imagine an assemblage of people, without a store, tailor, or mantua-maker, within a hundred miles; and an assemblage of horses, without a blacksmith or saddler within an equal distance. The gentlemen dressed in shoe- packs, moccasins, leather breeches, leggins, linsey hunting- shirts, and all home-made. The ladies dressed in linsey petticoats, and linsey or linen bedgowns, coarse shoes, stock- ings, handkerchiefs, and buckskin gloves, if any. If there were any buckles, rings, buttons or ruffles, they were the relics of olden times; family pieces from parents or grand- parents. The horses were caparisoned with old saddles, old bridles or halters, and pack-saddles, with a bag or blanket thrown over them: a rope or string as often constituted the girth as a piece of leather.
"The march, in double file, was often interrupted by the narrowness of our mountain paths, as they were called, for we had no roads; and these difficulties were often increased, sometimes by the good, and sometimes by the ill-will of neighbors, by falling trees, and tying grape-vines across the way. Sometimes an ambuscade was formed by the way- side, and an unexpected discharge of several guns took place, so as to cover the wedding company with smoke. Let the reader imagine the scene which followed this discharge; the sudden spring of the horses, the shrieks of the girls, and the chivalrous bustle of their partners to save them from fall- ing. Sometimes, in spite of all that could be done to pre- vent it, some were thrown to the ground. If a wrist, elbow, or ankle, happened to be sprained, it was tied up
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with a handkerchief, and little more ,was said or thought about it.
" The ceremony of the marriage .preceded the dinner, which was a substantial backwoods' feast of beef, pork, fowls, and sometimes venison and bear meat, roasted and boiled, with plenty of potatoes, cabbage, and other vegetables. During the dinner, the greatest hilarity always prevailed ; although the table might be a large slab of timber, hewed out with a broadaxe, supported by four sticks, set in auger- holes ; and the furniture, some old pewter dishes and plates; the rest, wooden bowls and trenchers : a few pewter spoons, much battered about the edges, were to be seen at some tables. The rest were made of horn. If knives were scarce, the deficiency was made up by the scalping knives, which were carried in sheaths, suspended to the belt of the hunting-shirt. Every man carried one of them.
" After dinner the dancing commenced, and generally lasted till the next morning. The figures of the dances were three and four handed reels, or square sets and jigs. The commencement was always a square form, which was followed by what was called jigging it off; that is, two of the four would single out for a jig, and were followed by the remain- ing couple. The jigs were often accompanied with what was called cutting out ; that is, when either of the parties be- came tired of the dance, on intimation, the place was sup- plied by some one of the company, without any interruption to the dance. In this way the dance was often continued till the musician was heartily tired of his situation. Toward the
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latter part of the night, if any of the company, through weariness, attempted to conceal themselves, for the purpose of sleeping, they were hunted up, paraded on the floor, and the fiddler ordered to play 'hang out till to-morrow morning.'
" About nine or ten o'clock, a deputation of young ladies stole off the bride, and put her to bed. In doing this, it frequently happened that they had to ascend a ladder, in- stead of a pair of stairs, leading from the dining and ball- room to the loft," the floor of which was made of clap-boards, lying loose. This ascent, one might think, would put the bride and her attendants to the blush ; but the foot of the ladder was commonly behind the door, which was purposely opened for the occasion, and its rounds, at the inner ends, were well hung with hunting-shirts, dresses, and other articles of clothing. The candles, being on the opposite side of the house, the exit of the bride was noticed but by few.
" This done, a deputation of young men, in like manner, stole off the groom, and placed him snugly by the side of his bride. The dance still continued; and if seats hap- pened to be scarce, as was often the case, every young man, when not engaged in the dance, was obliged to offer his lap, as a seat for one of the girls; and the offer was sure to be ac- cepted. In the midst of this hilarity, the bride and groom
" I have italicised this word, because, even now, the second stories of some of our most costly mansions are termed "lofts," by the older persons.
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were not forgotten. Pretty late in the night, some one would remind the company that the new couple must stand in need of some refreshment: black Betty, which was the name of the bottle, was called for, and sent up the ladder; but some- times, black Betty did not go alone. I have many times seen as much bread, beef, pork, and cabbage sent along, as would afford a good meal for half a dozen hungry men. The young couple were compelled to eat and drink, more or less, of whatever was offered.
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