USA > Virginia > Some prominent Virginia families, Volume II > Part 65
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accommodations. Mr. Wardrop did not return the next Day till Five in the Evening, in Company with Two Ship Captains. He received me very kindly, inviting me to stay a few Days with him; and one of the Captains assured me, if I would stay till Sunday he would conduct me more than 20 miles on my Road to Annapolis. I consented to wait for him a Day longer. My poor horses' hurt making me not the less yielding. Various Wines, Beer and Punch, with my good Eatables, we had here in great Plenty. On Saturday Evening I importuned my Captain Judd to ang- ment his favor of bearing me Company, by being very carly on Horse Baek; but he seemed dead to my importunity, saying only, he'd warrant we should be time enough; and as to my notion of avoiding the heat of the Day, he said I seemed not to understand the pleasure of sweating in this Country, which he assured me was very health; and he would I doubt not if it suited his humor have said the same of a Calendar or burning Fire. 4th Day travel 33 miles-living 7.4-Ferry. 13 s. In the morning about Eight of Sunday May 18th with much ado I got the Captain on Horse Back having taken leave of our old infirm but kind entertainer Mr. Wardrop. The Captain notwithstanding his promise of riding My Pace, betrayed more than onee an inclination to leave me, he being well mounted on a large able Horse: however with much ado, I kept up until we parted beyond Rawlin's. We came to Rawlin's in little more than Three Hours and tarried there until after One. oclock. London Town, (a great name) where I arrived about Three, stands upon the S W side of South River; is composed of a few Houses only. After Crossing this small river not more than half a mile in breadth, Two great Fellows in getting my Horse out of their (Browns) Boat, threw him upon his baek in the water; and tho' he lay at least a minute on his side in the water, the Boat beating on him, he received no damage. I came to Annapolis about Four in the Afternoon and as the Ferry Boat was just then setting out to eross the Bay, (a 12 mile passage) I had no time to observe this metropolis of Maryland which notwithstanding its seeming advantageous situation on the Bay: does not appear to me cven so large as Williams- burg, nor has the Publiek Buildings so good a look. We had a fair but very gentle gale over the Bay, which took us up more than Three Hours, yet it seemed a good passage; for tho' it is said a passage has been made here in an hour and a half, it as frequently happens, that a Day or Two or more is spent in crossing or waiting. On our arrival at Hutchings, in Kent Island, on the Eastern Shore, for want of convenience (a smaller flat for Instance) and it being near low water, we could not approach the firm Land, but being set upon a Marsh, within about a furlong or less, of Hutchings House, was obliged to go round upwards of Three miles, before we could come at the House. And in Crossing a small muddy gulley between the Marsh and the firm ground, the Person's Horse who was with me, was very near being mired; being got out with great difficulty. My horse likewise had several bad plunges and hard struggles. This way my 6th Day travel of 36 miles cost of living 6-9-and Ferry 1-6 pence. Monday Morning May 10th about Five, I left Hutchins-passed the Little Ferry and Queen Town (a small place of Three or Four Houses)
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and came to Dockrays about Nine Oclock where I refreshed myself and Horse near two Hours. I had as yet received no paper money, and the Land Lady here in charge of a pistole, gave me a Five Shilling bill much mangled and defaced, I a little scrupled it; and while the Land Lady was assuring me that it would currently pass, a Person dressed like a Gentleman in Company with others came up and took it out of my hand, and after viewing it, returned it very gravely, affirming, he had had that very Bill himself a long time, having offered it to more than Twenty People, who all rejected it, tho' at length he luckily got rid of it; upon which I renews my request to have other money in lieu of the Bill. But a sensible young woman of the House compassionating my ignorance of the Polite world took notice that she perceived I was a stranger who did not understand the wit of the Country, for, she assured me the Gentleman was only upon the Hum Bug, and had never seen the Bill before in his life. Tho' I credited the young woman and took the Bill this treatment made me angry, and with a visible contempt, I replyed; If that was the case, it was well enough, as it convinced me the Fellow was a Fool, for a Gentleman would disdain a Lie at any time, now especially as it could serve no other End or purpose than to abuse or mislead a stranger. The Buck who was in sight in the next Room and heard what I uttered, came out and swelled, but for reasons best known to himself, proceeded no further, but returned again quietly to his Company, and I set out on my journey. I dined at Hamors, a Tavern adjacent to a Church, in Company of a very Civil Person named Catts who said he lived at the Head of Elk River, and desired me to make his house in my way on my return from Philadelphia. Finding the gravel in some places a little troublesome to my Horses feet, who was as yet without shoes, I called at a Smiths shop about a mile or two beyond Hamors by the Road Side in order to get two shoes set on his four Feet. I staid here more than an hour, while the Smith pretended to be preparing the Shoes: but in talking with the Servant while the masters back was turned, he informed me that his Master who only married a Smiths Widow, knew nothing of the business, and that he himself the servant (a poor Irishman) had worked with an Anchor Smith at Woolwich, and had never set a Shoe in his Life; that tho' his Master had sent two miles for shoes (not having one of his own) to get my money, he would oblige him to put them on, tho' it was a hundred to one he should spoil my Horse. So giving the poor fellow a great Bill with thanks for his kind intelligence; on the Masters return, without acquainting him with my reasons, I demanded the money I had paid (half a crown) insisting I would wait no longer. But this he refused to comply with, talking very big tho' I threatened to go to a Magistrate; till he saw me get upon my Horse, and turn back towards Hamors. He then rather than expose himself, returned my money, and I pursued my Journey to Kingston. A Town of a tollerable appearance on the South Side of Chester River, not less I should think, than three quarters of a mile over, the Town consisting of 30 or 40 Houses, several not badly built, but it being early in the afternoon, I crossed the River to Newtown, which is
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seated just opposite on the north side of this River where I lay all night. This Town is larger than Kingston, and for number and neatness of Build- ings, I estcem it a little, if any thing inferior to the Metropolis. I inquired for a Smith herc, but it being Whitson Monday and Servants mostly drunk, nonc could he had. The Tavern I was at, the best in Town. had a very good appearance, yet on my calling for Madeira wine and English Rum, I was told they had none. Nor had I any other choice than Brumbo (vizt. Rum Water and Sugar) or English Cyder, so I chose the latter. The Host in here assumed very high airs, pretending to have been a Groom to his Grace the Duke of Bolton, and that several Gentlemen of Note. of whom he mentioned one or two, would give any money for him, but that his Master, who knew his value, would part with him upon no Consideration. This I mentioned to the Master, who said he was a most impudent Rascal, and was all a Lie, and he appeared indeed to me in every respect a very deceitful, Superficial Fellow. 7th Days travel, 30 mile. living 6-8-Ferry 6d.
May 20th : Sct ont as usual about Five Georgetown on the South and Frederickstown on the North side of Sassafras River, about half a mile over, which as well as the last, runs into Chesapeake Bay. Each of these Towns are composed of a pretty many Stragling Houses, and by the ap- pearance of vessels in the River, Sloops, Schooners &c, it may be supposed a tolerable trade is carried on here, as well as at Newtown. I break- fasted at Frederick. and passed Warwick about Two, a Town of Two or Three Houses only, and came to Witherspoons before Three; which is about a mile within the Province of Pennsylvania. Hereabouts, from, a landing on a branch of Chesapeake, to another, which runs into Delaware Bay, is not more than 8 miles, and that is said an exceeding good road. Here I lodged, tho' I met with poor entertainment. The owner of the House is a Justice of the Peace, but puts a poor Fellow into a part of the House which is kept as a Tavern, in the manner some of our great men do in Virginia. Here is a small bricked building close by the Road, which is called his Worship's Office, and as the poor Landlord of the Inn said, brings him in a Pretty Penny. How I dined with one Captain Swain of Phila- delphia, A Person remarkable a few years since for making an unsuccessful attempt to discover the North West Passage. This was my 8th days journey of 26 miles-living 6-4 and Ferry 4d. May 21st: Just as I set ont this morning at Five I was joined by a Person who said he was going to New Castle, and as that seemed to be my Course, proposed keeping me Company. to which I had no objection; but the apprehension of my Beast not being able to keep up with his; but this he civily amended, by assureing me hc would go my Pace. So we jogged on together very sociably, In our con- versation on the Road, he informed me his name was John Crenet, living near David Wetherspoon Esqr. in St. George Hundred, tho' he said he was best known by the name of the French Doctor, desired if I came back that way, I would make his House my Home. His House, he said was conveniently situated between the two landings, on the branches or Creeks which fell into Delaware and Chesapeake Bay; about 4 miles from
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each; and as he understood I lived at Williamsburg, he seemed to fancy an advantageous correspondence might be settled between us to our mutual benefit.
He was taken Prisoner at the close of the last war, but finding the Country agreeable, and being pleased with his situation, he chose to con- tinue and has found he says very good encouragement; tho' he is generally obliged with goods instead of money. We baited at the Red Lyon Tavern, a House tho' of newer appearance, where we were well entertained with extraordinary good house hold bread, excellent Butter and good Tea, as well as good Oats for our Horses. The people too were Quakers. Here a morning's Bait for myself and Horse cost me lld. only; in my other place Is-4 at the least. The entertainment here too was, by much the best. It is very remarkable, that men in the high Roads, thro' Maryland, there is an infinite number of gates standing in the way, which renders it very inconvenient and troublesome to a Traveller, as one is obliged to alight to open many of them from this ill contrivance, or dragging hard on the ground; whereas when one enters the Province of Pennsylvania; it is as rare to meet with one, tho' all sorts of improvements are far Superior to anything to be met with in Maryland or Virginia. In Pennsylvania where the Roads are not entirely open, it is generally left wide and Straight between the Fences, and when uneven levelled with a Plough; but no interruption of gates: and on each hand of Such Roads, it is very common to See Fruit and other Trees in Orchards and Fields, as regularly planted and kept in order, as in any part of Herfordshire. There was two other Persons, natives of Maryland, at dinner with Mr. Swain and I at Weatherspoons.
When I mentioned this Publick grievance of blocking up the Kings High- way with Gates, Mr. Swain readily owned it was Scandelous and insuf- ferable; but the Marylander agreed that it was very hard a Person who had Lands on each side a Road should be put to the charge of a double Franc; and that the trouble of opening a few gates was inconsiderable, compared with the benefit which accrued to the owners of the lands thro' which such Roads lay; and the mentioning of the Right of Property which every Traveller has to claim a free Passage on the Kings Road; and the unreasonableness of Publick advantages or Benefits giving way to private Interest, appeared mere nonsense to them; even not to be convinced. To do Virginia Justice, They Cannot be justly accused of this great and very unreasonable Trespass upon the Peoples Liberties, or rather Right and Property. Tho' the Ferries, both in Virginia and Maryland, are in very great disorder, attended, not only with difficulty, but great danger, in Horses getting in and out of Boats; Whereas, herein, the greatest order and regularity is observed in the Province of Pennsylvania. The reason if any can be given, I take to be there are considerable Ferrys and usually engrossed by some great man or other in the neighborhood; who lias the greatest interest in the respective Courts, and whatever mischiefs or dissapointments may happen thro' bad Boats, bad attendance, or the want of truckles, or other proper conveniences for taking Horses in or out; it
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would be estecmed the utmost arrogance, and presumption to suppose a Coln. Major, or a Captain; who keeps the Ferry, Should be obliged to keep any other Conveniences, than what he himself is inclined to. But Ferrys in Pennsylvania are generally rented of the Publick who take care that every thing is done in order.
We got to New Castle about Eleven. It being Court time there was a good deal of company in Town. I was obliged to wait here till Five, to get my Horse shoed, which was not done but by great entreaty; and I was at last obliged myself to attend the doing it. This Town, on the South Side the River or Bay of Delaware, covers a good deal of ground but the Houses in general are very straggling. One street leading from the Court House to the Water-side, is more uniform and closer built; about a furlong in Length. We dined at a Tavern kept by one Mrs. Brag, a widow, where we were entertained with as good, and as Fine Beef, Veal, mutton and Poultry as I would ever wish to see; not I think in general to be exceeded in any Market in London. Good Wine, Beer and Punch was in plenty before, at, and after Dinner; and tho' our Company at Table was numerous; yet none was incommoded; and after all I was surprised to see the whole expence,, ordinary and extraordinary, amounted to no more than Two shillings and six pence, that currency, or Twenty Pence Sterling.
Observing to my friend the French-Man, that I conceived the People of the House must be considerable Sufferers by us; he replyed, Provisions were cheap here, as well as good, however, he confessed, there was a emulation between the Two principal Taverns in Town who should give the best and cheapest entertainment. When I was about to depart, my Great Coat was missing, lost I presume or rather Stolen thro' the care- lessness of a drunken Hostler who had Charge of it. He swore hastily he delivered it to his Mistress, who as he also avoud, put it among many others. They were all produced and every one disowned by me. Yet the Hostler offering to depose, and the Mistress concuring in opinion that a particular one, which they fixed upon tho' of a quite different colour, was mine, I chose to take that rather than none, nor as mine as well as this, was an old one, did I think myself much injured and the mistress was inclined to make me entire satisfaction. I set out hence between Four and Five, and crossing Christen Creek or River, turned half a mile out of my way to lodge at a pretty considerable Town on the left. Called Wilmington, tho' I might I believe have been better accommodated at the Ferry House. Wilmington-upon the North Side of Christen Creek tho' tollerably large, with two Small Market Houses, and many other Houses built with Brick, makes none but a desolate appearance. The people say some time since they enjoyed a very brisk Trade, but a stop in a great measure being put to the illicit trade with the French, upon which they chiefly depended, the Town of late has been upon the decline. Travel for this 9th Day was 32 miles-Cost 3.9- and Ferry 5d.
May 22nd. Left Wilmington about five; came to Chester about 8 where I breakfasted extremely well; and my Horse as well refreshed with good
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Hay and Oats. Just as I had ordered my Horse to be brought to the door, a Gentleman to my great surprise Saluted me by my name, and he seemed no less amazed, that I could not recolect his, tho' he quickly relieved my perplexity by letting me know that he was my old neighbor, Mr. Osborn the merchant who (as well as I) had been so great a sufferer by the Fire at Williamsburg. He left Williamsburg on the 14th, two days after me; and when he crossed the Bay of York and came all the way up the Eastern Shore of Virginia (esteemed the shortest and I believe the best road,) I marvelled he had got no further; for excluding the two days I rested at Mr. Wardrops, he had spent as many days in Traveling as I. But this he said was owing to his Boy, who alighting upon some necessary occasion, and mistaking a turning, occasioned his riding at least 40 miles before he could meet with him again; all which time he said, his anxiety un- speakable, his Boy having in the mortmain behind him in Cash and Bills, upwards of £500. I offered to wait an hour or two for Mr. Osborn's Company; but he saying it was his choice, not to enter Philadelphia till the dusk of Evening, I proceeded alone, dined at Darby and arrived at Phialdelphia about Three in the afternoon. He was he said going to Philadelphia with the view of settling there.
I arrived at Philadelphia in the afternoon of May 22nd 1755-the 10th day on horse back from Williamsburg Virginia. I put up at the "Indian King" in the Market Street, kept by one Mr. John Biddle, a very Civil Courteous Quaker. This person and his Wife not one jot behind him in rational benevolence, or what may be very properly esteemed true polite- ness, Confirmed in me the favorable opinion I had long entertained this peacable innofensive Society. For tho' this House is one of the greatest business in its way, in the whole City: Yet everything is transacted witlı the utmost regularity and decorum. There is a regular ordinary every Day, of the very best provisions and well dressed a 12d a head; that is Eight pence Sterling, the best of liquors proportionably moderate; and the best use taken of horses. Yet there is one odd custom attends this House, which tho' agreeable to me, may not perhaps be so to all people. For whoever remains here after eleven of the Clock in the Evening is very Civilly acquainted with the time by a Servant, and that after that hour, it is the invariable Custom of the house to serve no more liquor that night to any Body; and this custom I am told never is infringed, And this I think is a true specimen of what every House of entertainment should be. Having been ten days at this house, my Courteous Host placing him- self in a chair by me, desired I would walk into the next room and drink a dish of Tea with his Wife; but first, says he, thou appearest to us a Stranger; and what is very agreeable to us a sober one; for which reason we are apprehensive it may not be so pleasing to thee to Continue in a Publick House, so hurried as ours sometimes is, tho' we do believe ours is not the worst of the sort. If it is so, pray be free and let us know, for my Wife in that Case, will very easily enquire out a private lodging for thee in some reputable sober family in the neighborhood, thee will be pleased to take notice, the desire of making things most easy and agrecable
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to thee, is the occasion of this motion; and if thee should like best to continue still with us, or to dine only at the ordinary, thee will be welcome; but before thee determinest, thee will consider thereupon. 1 immediately replyed, the thing required no consideration; for tho' his was the most agreeable Publick House I had ever lived in, a private one, such as he proposed, would be more to my satisfaction; that I had myself, tho' without effect, made such enquiry, but should now be thankful if Mrs. Biddle would take the trouble upon her; which she cheerfully accepted; recommending only to a very worthy Family. As my stay in Philadelphia was 11 weeks and my observation of what passed at the time somewhat particular, it was once my intention to have made them Publick as they would be in my humble apprehension have tended towards a manifestation of the Quakers integrity while they were a part of the Legislature; and by a recapitulation of a number of clear and incontestable Facts, have also exploded the malicious calumnious falsehoods and absurditics con- tained in two invidious Pamphlets, instituted "A brief State and a brief view of Pennsylvania published in the years 1755 and 1756," but I shall suspend this design for the present; as I am given to hope this task will be more effectually executed in long, by a far abler hand.
Friday May 23d-about 8 in the morning I walked down to Mr. Allins, who was not yet arrived from his Country House about eight miles out of Town, where it seems he generally is all the summer time. I called again at Ten, when I met with and delivered him my Letter from the Honourable Mr. Nelson, which when he had looked over, He turned to me and said he had a very great regard for the Gentleman who wrote that Letter; but did not perecive he had it in his power to do any thing for me; as to the Sugar Works, and Distillery, they were now in other hands, and he had little or no Interest in them, or indecd in any thing else. He advised me to look about myself, and if I found any one inclined to employ me in any shape, on my applying to him, he would inform them of the character Mr. Nelson had given me. This I own was a reception, I was not prepared for; Yet Mortified and confounded as I was; I begged he would reflect, I was an utter Stranger in the place; to which I observed, he was Sensible, I had travelled merely at the instance and advice of the Honourable Mr. Nelson. That I was even so destitute of acquaintance, that I did not know where or to whom to apply for a private Lodging for want of which advantage, I shall be obliged, both Horse and Self, at a large expense, to continue at a Publick Inn. But this instead of exciting in him any feeling of my distress or anxiety, only increased his impatience to get rid of me, Keeping me Standing, and moving divers times towards the Door, as if he apprehended, that I did not know the way; however, at the 3rd or 4th motion, I took the hint walking out of the Room into. the passage, he very civilly keeping me company, to the Street Door; but before we parted, I interested to know whether I might have the liberty of waiting on him again, when he had considered my Case: and I might have the happiness of finding him more at leisure. As to that, he said he might generally be spoke with about 9 in the morning. I went to my
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Inn very melancholy, but sat down in the afternoon and on paper stated my misfortunes and unhappy circumstances, with my view in taking this fatigueing journey, and the next morning sent it to Mr. Allen to consider on til Monday when I proposed waiting on him again.
Saturday May 24th being the Chief Market Day, (Wednesday is the other) I took a view of it, good part of the Town I had seen yesterday evening. There seems to be a good supply of most kinds of Provisions and a vast coneourse of People, Buyers as well as Sellers. Meat in the Shambles (some at least) of each sort very good and might even vie with the best in Leader Hall Market. Fish and Poultry, the market don't seem over well supplied with, tho' in cool weather, a Fine sort of large Sea Pereh of about six pounds called the Sheeps Head, from its teeth resembling those of a sheep, are frequently brought from the Sea Coast quite through the Province of New Jersey, not less than 70 miles land carriage; and are sold for 18d each; Butter in great plenty and very good, at about &d per pound. Vegetables plenty enough tho' not so many good or handsome Gardens about Philadelphia as one might expect, and with all iny enquiry I could not find a Plant deserving the name of Cauliflower, nor did I ever see or hear of a good one within Virginia or Maryland ; and the best at either of those places, are raised in Autumn, even so late as November. As there are sueh fine Rivers in Pennsylvania as well as in the other Provinees; their Markets not abounding in Fish, I should attribute to their want of skill than want of Fish; but sometimes, I liave seen a good many Fish in the Market. Sturgeon in the Spring abound in every River I have seen in America, and Ten or Twenty miles above Philadelphia, in the Delaware, the Curing of Sturgeon is become a Manufacture. The first green Peas seen in this Market, was the 24th of May, and they sold very dear. In Virginia, as before observed. I had them in plenty at Trapiers Ferry on the 12th, and at Williamsburg I heard of their being at tables a fortnight at the least before that. Good milk at a penny a pint (or an English half Penny) as in London is brought Morning and Evening to Peoples doors; and it generally stands all Day to be sold in the Market place. But to go on with my Journel. Sunday May 25th Mr. Osborne leaving word he would call on me at Eleven this morning, I staid at home till three, then went to the Lutheran Church, a neat Briek Building where there is a good organ to which I heard them sing Psalms, agreeably enough, tho' I was a stranger to the Language, (High Duteh).) Then I walked about Two miles out of Town to the Proprietor's Garden but viewed first that of the late Governor, James Hamilton Esqr. I made half a mile short of the other. Mr. Hamilton's was mueh the largest, but not disposed with judgment, not that I could find, did it contain any thing that was eurious, unless what is by some gazed at and spoke of may be esteemed so, a few very ordinary statues. A shady walk of high Trees leading from the farther end of the Garden, looked well enough; by the Grass above knee high there and spoiling for the want of the Seythe, rendered it too troublesome to walk to the top. The Proprietor's tho' much smaller, was laid out with more Judgment, tho'
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