USA > Vermont > Caledonia County > St Johnsbury > The town of St. Johnsbury, Vt. ; a review of one hundred twenty-five years to the anniversary pageant 1912 > Part 16
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XV
TAVERN STORE FARM
LORD'S INN-AT THE BEND-TODDY MIXER-A FAMOUS HOSTELRY
-TURKEY SHOOTS-SWAPPING HOTELS-INDIANS IN BAR ROOM-EARLY STORES-TIGER LETS GO-SUNDAY EVENING- FIXING A FISH HOOK-RUM AND MOLASSES-ROW OF BARRELS -WHISKEY FOR HOGS-COUNTRY PRODUCE-FARM JOURNAL- CATTLE FAIR-GEE UP AND GEE HO.
EARLY INNS AND TAVERNS
"No Sir," said Dr. Johnson, "there is nothing which has yet been con- trived by man whereby so much happiness is produced as by a good Tavern."
As early as 1790 Dr. Lord's house at the south end of the Plain was open for the housing of strangers in the settlement ; later it was enlarged and known as Lord's Inn. Sunday meetings were occasionally held in this house. In later years it was held for some time by Seth Ford as a tavern. Joseph Lord was one of the grantees ; the steep pitch up which the trail from Barnet ran to reach the Plain was known as Lord's Hill, the first house to be seen by one coming up was Lord's Inn. Scattered survivors of the original artichokes, lovage, horse radish and pig weeds were on the place when Joseph P. Fairbanks established his homestead there in 1841. The spot is now covered by the lawn of Brantview.
The old two story white house removed in 1897 to make way + for St. Aloysius church, which had successively housed Luther
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Jewett's apothecary stock, the Caledonian printing press and the Cross bakery, was originally built by Major Thomas Peck for a public house in 1799. In 1810 it was known as Willard Carleton's Tavern, and advertised for sale in the North Star.
Just when a tavern was opened at the Bend is not known, but its central location made it the approved tavern site on the Plain. The first house there was built by Henry Hoffman, a native of Germany and soldier in the revolutionary army, who came to this town in 1790. Seven years later he cleared off the forest trees that remained on the old Burial Yard where the Court House now is. Some time after 1810, Capt. John Barney built a new tavern on the site of Hoffman's, which he successfully conducted for several years. This Barney building was moved back in 1851 and con- verted into the rear part of the St. Johnsbury House.
During the twenties Abel Rice was the well known proprietor at this stand. Capt. Barney had sold the house to Presbury West ; Judge West sold it to Major Abel M. Rice, "who could not only beat him three games out of five at checkers, but also met all his payments on the hotel promptly, contrary to expectation !" Of this establishment Dr. Samuel Graves has given a vivid sketch :-
"On a high standard in front of the house hung and swung on creaking hinges the sign-A RICE HOTEL. Prominent on entering its hospitable doors was the indispensable bar, adorned with a wealth of decanters which invit- ingly contained a plentiful supply of good cheer, running thro' the gamut of beverages from potato whiskey to French brandy. The man who on due oc- casions did not step up and treat was voted a niggard or a churl by his neighbors. These were the brave old days when it was counted a good joke for an honest man to lose his way home of an evening, or to mistake his neighbor's home for his own. Abel mixed toddies with a mild satisfied air, and stabled horses in a determined way; while the ample and jolly landlady beguiled the traveler with fried sausage and gossip."
Abel Rice sold the tavern to Ezra Ide, 1836; Ide sold to A. H. Wilcox, 1838; Wilcox sold to Joseph Hutchinson, 1841; Hutchinson sold to Hull Curtis, 1847; Curtis sold to a syndicate who in 1851 built the St. Johnsbury House, with the old tavern in the rear.
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In 1838, William Boardman built his "House of Entertain- ment at the South End of St. Johnsbury Plain," which he conducted for some years on a strictly temperance basis. This building which is now the Academy Club House was moved to its present location in 1872 to make way for the erection of South Hall.
CENTRE VILLAGE TAVERNS
Capt. Samuel French the bridge builder put up the first tavern here about 1812, on the edge of the bog at the north end of the street. At that time the standing water was deep enough for the boys to fish in; he turned the course of the brook from above so as to wash in soil enough to cover most of the bog, which is now good grass land. £ Business increased and some years later French put up a new two-story building ; on the first floor was the bar room with a well furnished bar, also parlor and dining room; upstairs were sleeping rooms and a dance hall ; this hall was afterward made into small rooms and a new one of large floor space was built out over a shed extension toward the swamp. There was a commodious stable, for French had a six- horse team on the road all the time, a four-horse team part of the time, and others for jobbing work around town. To provide properly for the shoeing of so many horses he built a blacksmith shop on the west side of the street near the river.
French's Tavern was for many years a famous hostelry ; it became noted as a good place for holiday functions, on Training day, Fourth of July and Thanksgiving; prior to this last he always got up a "turkey-shoot"-the shooting was done with old style flint-lock muskets, the turkey being set up at a distance of about 25 rods. In those days a turkey-shoot was a popular ad- junct to the annual festival in which that bird held so prominent a place; the more humane public sentiment of later years finally banished it from the field.
In 1820 Capt. Walter Wright built the long low house near the lower bridge, in which he lived till his death at the age of 90 years. This house is still standing ; tho not large, it was arranged to accommodate travelers, and became one of the halting places
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for stage drivers "to get their rum so that they could drive bet- ter."
The large Ira Armington house, with inviting upper and lower piazzas, "an ornament to the village with fine Hall at- tached," stood on the corner opposite the Universalist Church, and was for several years known as Armington's Hotel ; it was burned in 1876.
INNS AT THE EAST VILLAGE
There were quite early two taverns at the East Village, Gage's and Hibbard's. Capt. Silas Hibbard built his of brick in 1828 ; it was on the west side of the street, the fourth building from the old grave yard; there was nothing on the east side of the street except the steep pitch descending to Moose River. The brick for Hibbard's house were made on the premises; clay was hauled on to the garden, where Elijah Jackson with two horses trod it in to suitable condition for making up in to brick. The house was forty feet square with four large rooms and a bar room on the first floor, and plenty of rooms up stairs. At the bar anybody could get a drink except Johnny Beaton, a well known toper, whose request for more brought the answer, "No, Johnny, you've had enough, you can't have another drop."
Josiah Gage's tavern was some distance up the river, a large building still standing, where the road turns up following Gage's brook to Lyndon. At that point a pitch had been made and a log hut built years before, when one going out after dark had to carry torches to scare off the wolves. Gage was in Jubal Harrington's store one day and remarked that he ought not to be taxed as high as Hibbard was who had a new brick house. "I'll swap with you," said Hibbard. "It's a bargain," said Gage. The swap was made and continued four years till Hibbard sold back to Gage. One day while Hibbard was in possession, a posse of thirty Indians came along and wanted to put up their wigwams near by. They got permission, but it was too late that afternoon to begin ; so the whole tribe was let in to sleep over night on the bar room floor. The next day they pitched near the river. Four school girls came up to see them. They wanted some baskets,
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but had no money. A squaw pointed to their mittens, enquir- ingly. Each girl pulled off her mittens, swapped the same for a basket and went back home with bare hands, swinging her Indian trophy.
STORES AND MERCHANTS
"I will buy with you, sell with you * * what news on the Rialto?"
"To the store he goes both for barter and for news."
Amaziah D. Barber is reported as the first store keeper on the Plain. He built the old Lucas house about 1799, and continued in trade for ten or fifteen years. Fred Phelps was one of the earlier store keepers; he left town in 1816. Tiger, a well known watch dog, belonged to Phelps. One day having left the store for some errand, on returning he found Tiger holding a man by the leg. "Why, Isaac Wing," said he, "what are you doing here?" "Trying to get out," said Isaac, "but Tiger won't let me." By order of Phelps, Tiger let go his hold and Wing shortly after went off to Canada. Chamberlin and Paddock followed Phelps, and next in order were the Clark brothers and Clarks and Bishop.
Sometime after 1800 John and Luther Clark built the two small dwelling houses still standing on either side of the T. C. Fletcher property, and their store and horse sheds were spread along the street between. They were originally saddle makers and when buying certain equipments in Boston they added to their purchases miscellaneous goods that were put on sale. In a few years they built up a large business in dry goods, groceries and whatever else was in demand.
John was a Baptist, Luther a Congregationalist. With Luther the Lord's Day began at night-fall on Saturday, a practice not in vogue with the Baptists. This gave an opportunity for the story passed around among certain wags that, with an eye to profit, John kept open store on Saturday evenings and Luther gave out goods innocently on the evening of Sunday. As to which, says one who knew the two men well, "I will affirm that no light ever glimmered behind the shutters of that store of a Sunday even- ing." After some years the firm became Clarks and Bishop and the business was enlarged. Double columns on the pages of the
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Farmer's Herald set forth the large and varied assortments of goods, with explanatory pictures of napt hats, Leghorn bonnets, military equipments, tea chests and whatever else.
In 1827 Ephraim Jewett, son of Dr. Luther, was taken in as a clerk, sixteen years of age. "He showed me a little kindness," says Dr. Samuel Graves, "which I have kept fresh in memory for sixty-five years. I had bought a fish hook at the store. He asked me if I knew how to put it on the line properly. I said no, so he took my hook and deftly with much pains fastened it on to the line; then said-'now my boy, I guess you'll catch a fish.' That little act to me, a stranger boy, has lived in my remembrance as one of the small things that indicate the character of the man." Ephraim Jewett became one of the best known and most trusted merchants of the place continuing in business till his death in 1865. Clarks and Bishop sold out to Kittredge and Colby ; they sold in 1842 to Shedd and Jewett; later Shedd retired and Jewett and Frank Brown became in 1846, proprietors. The store was just south of Passumpsic Bank, and is still known as the Brown Block.
In 1849 Jewett and Brown built the largest store in town on the site now occupied by the brick block adjoining the St. Johns- bury House ; that building still stands in the rear unchanged in outline. Where the Union block now is Lovell Moore did a brisk business during the twenties in merchandise of all sorts in small quantities "from pins to codfish and from raisins to new rum." Painted in large black letters on the white shutters was the an- nouncement-"Lovell Moore, Dry Goods, West India Rum and Molasses."
In 1820 Moses Kittredge set up a store at the East Village with a thousand dollars worth of goods brought from Portland. More business was done there at that time, it is said, than any- where else in the town. Nine years later Kittredge gathered up his profits and removed to the Plain, "worth so many dollars and the richest man in St. Johnsbury." In partnership with J. W. Colby he built the old yellow store that stood where the Frank Brown block now is ; where he presided as merchant, speculator, judge, postmaster and general man of affairs. He also built the Brown block in 1850. In this store Samuel Jewett and Samuel
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Higgins each for a time carried a department of dry goods. In 1860 Frank Brown bought the building and continued business in it for some forty years. He was the last representative of the old time merchants. He came to town from Montpelier in 1841 with a dollar and a half in his pocket; this was his original capital ; the dollar piece was one of the old Spanish milled coins, and he carried it in his pocket as a keepsake or mascot until his death, at which time the coin was a hundred and five years old.
Emerson Hall, beginning in 1846, was in business on the west side of Main street for thirty years. He built the store that stood where the Athenaeum now is, the same building which had notoriety in after years as the liquor agency, adjoining St. An- drew's Church; first it was Hall and Higgins, after Ephraim Jewett's death it was Hall and Fletcher, in the Jewett block.
STORES AT THE CENTER VILLAGE
The following is taken from H. N. Roberts' reminiscences :-
"The first store in this village was Ezra Sanger's built in about 1810. It stood on the corner of the road that went East ; it was quite a large two- story Building ; the store was in the Lower Part and was filled with goods and diferent kinds of Liquor. The Liquor was not in the back store ethier, but in Front, where they could wait on the customers quicker. There would be a row of Barrels the whole length of one side, all Liquor ; it was sold by the glass or the gallon, three cents a glass and twelve cents a gallon.
"The rest of the goods was salt Codfish, Mackeral, West India Molasses ; a verry few shelf goods and a few Groceries. After a few years Sanger sold out to Horace Evans, he ran it a few years and then took in a partner Ephraim Paddock of St. Johnsbury. They thought it would be a good plan to put up a Whiskey Still for making Whiskey out of Wheat, Corn, some Rye and some Barley. After getting out the Whiskey, what to do with the remainder, the swill as they called it. They thought they would try feeding it to Hogs, but it proved a failure ; in a short time the Hogs be- gun to get sick and lame; they wanted something besides Whiskey swill. Then they tried Cattle and no better results, it wanted to be used with some- thing els mixed with it. They ran the still only a few years for Whiskey went down and their business went up, so they sold out the Buildings and Contents to various Persons; the Granary seperate from the main Building they sold to the Methodist who moved it up and finished it in to a Meeting House ; the Still used to stand where John Danforth has a garden on the East road. This old Sanger Store was sold at last to Goodhue of St. Johns-
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bury, and Goodhue sold to David Goodhall, and Goodhall to Ira Armington who moved it across the road to make a Lot for to Build a Hotel. He Built a fine House and it was an ornament to the Villiage, and a fine Hall attached.
"Samuel Humphrey built a store, he did not live long, and it was sold to Jonas Flint ; Flint died and it was sold to Hiram Weeks and he owned it till the Fire.
"John Bacon ran the Farmer's and Mechanic's Store for three years be- ginning in 1847, and then bought out and ran it for himself. John Bacon was a large dealer in Butter, Hops, Starch, and other kinds of Produce. In the first years of trade he would buy Cattle and Hogs; people would trade in the summer, get in to Debt not having much money ; then they would sell some of their Cattle or Hogs to pay the Debt. The Cattle he would buy in the fall and drive them to market. Hogs he would buy them when it came freezing up time and take them to Portland. The teams would Load back with salt mostly ; the Cattle he would sell for money, and then buy his Store goods."
DOINGS ON THE FARM 1831
In 1791 a young man from Charlestown No. 4 followed the blazed trail that brought him to St. Johnsbury. The next year he bought 150 acres of land on Moose River for which he paid £67-10s. Two years later he married, and lived here 57 years. His death in 1848, in his eightieth year, took away "the last sur- vivor of the band of pioneers who turned the once howling wilder- ness into fruitful fields." A journal which he kept in 1831-1834 has come to light, extracts from which are here given. They will illustrate the every day farm doings of that period, and inci- dentally the simplified spelling of a very intelligent and prosper- ous farmer-Asa Lee.
May 17, 1831. Begain to Plant Corne.
May 26. I woshed my sheep and boochered my Pig.
June 7. Plainted potatos and went to Training.
July 7. All hands to mowinge.
July 8. Drawd in 3 Lods hay in to my new Barne.
July 20. I gave my note for $3 to Kitrig and Moril.
Aug. 2. 2 tin pedlars poot up at our house.
Aug. 5. Begain to cut up Corne and moe Clover seed.
Aug. 7. Sunday. Attended Meeting.
Aug. 8. Drawd in our rye. Surkus on the Plain.
Aug. 15. Begain to make Baskets. Aug. 31. Finished 2 Baskets.
Aug. 18. Begain to reap oats and oiled our harnis.
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Aug. 19. Boroed Mr. Work's Scraper.
Aug. 21. Sunday Meeting at our School house.
Aug. 22. Mother traided with a pedler.
Aug. 24. Borowid 11 lbs. of pourke of John.
Aug. 27. I went to Center Village and got the old horse shod. Sept. 6. Freeman's Meeting.
Sept. 7. A. and L, rode tantrom to Clarks store.
Sept. 10. Caried tools to Senter Meeting house.
Sept. 16. Lynda rode to Danvil in the Stag. Raised Corn house.
Sept. 18. Mr. Wheeton dyed.
Sept. 20. Drawd in two lods of Clover seed.
Sept. 25. Mam and the girls to Meetinge.
Oct. 7, 1831. Three days Meeting begain at the Center.
Oct. 12. A snowstorm. 15th. Plesant and Sun Shines.
Oct. 16. Sunday I heared Mr. Bugby Preach.
Oct. 20. Begun to Boile Cyder.
Oct. 24.
Dug potatos in rain. 28th. Finished Diggin.
Oct. 31. To hopeing 3 Barils, Fifty cents.
Nov. 4. I went on to the Plain with the pedler.
Nov. 10. I cut Pine Logg for a water trap.
Nov. 12. Swopt horsis with Mr. West.
Nov. 18. I gave my Note to Kitrig for a Bras Kitle.
Nov. 22. Brought home Brass kitle.
Dec. 1. Thanksgivinge Day-over to Brother Johns.
Dec. 13. Hard Luck a Login. Brok one wipltree.
Dec. 28. I broke my ax handles. I went to mill.
Dec 22. A. rod over to Capt. Stilesis, Caried a Pigg.
July 19, 1832. Went to the Plain and traided with Juet. Cow to Boot. July 20. I hopt our old cheese tub.
July 22. Elder C. Preach his fur well Sermon to the Center.
July 25. Clouday. I churnd Buter.
July 27. Good hay Day. Put up 125 Cocks.
Aug. 18. Finished hayinge. 20th. Begain to reap our rye.
Aug. 22. I made a piggin. Caried 2 bush. wheat to mill.
Aug. 27. All hands to reaping oats. Finished.
May 7, 1833. Baugt 1 Dung forke. Sod My Onion seed.
May 24. War declared betwixt John H. and my son.
May 29. I shered my Sheep in 2 hours, piled up old Sleds.
June 1. I went to Plain. Baugt 1 fish, of Kitrig.
June 5. Bgan to worke on the Rhode, Myself and oxen and plow.
June 14. Attended to Mr. Fog's Funeral on the Plain.
June 15. I went to East Vilage and got pint of Brandy.
June 25. Made grindstone frame. Dyantha comes to work. 4 July 1. Finished my hogg Yeard. Scalt my Buckits.
July 8. A Call to help move the printinge Ofice on the Plain.
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July 9. Paid to Erastus Fairbanks 50 cents for New Sainge and for Mending my plow. He had begain to ho his corn 3rd time.
July 13. The old fox took the old hen Bag and Bagige.
July 18.
July 21. I Mod thissels and lost my ho.
Sunday. Met in our School house.
Aug. 2. I can attst to the truth that Shaler Buel has shoen his Ignorence.
Aug. 12. The old Mare in the oats, a grate Noise.
Nov. 6. Let to my son 6 sheep for 1 year at 1 1b. of wool for each sheep.
Dec. 19. Thrashed wheat. Baught a Dixshonary.
Mch. 9, 1834. Sunday. All hands to Meetinge. Snow squals.
Mch. 18. I went to town Meetinge.
Mch. 20. 55 1bs of Shuger this Day.
April 19. Fire broke out. We had a hard scrable.
May 14. I lost my whip. 24th. I swengled Flax.
June 15. Frost last night. 30th. Corn toseled out.
July 6. Bees swarmed. We attended Meetinge to the Center.
Mch. 19, 1811. This day Mr Mann left My old Log House.
Apl. 20, 1811. This day Mr. Pouers moved into My House.
Jan. 30, 1812. Mr. Peter Pouers moved out of My House.
The items above given are a sample of some 1200 entries covering sixty pages of the journal. The book in which they are recorded was bought at Clark's store on the Plain, Jan. 1812. Across the first leaf is written in clear hand the word "Righteous- ness." It is deposited in the Athenaeum.
CALEDONIA CATTLE FAIR OF 1838
This was the fourth annual meet of the Caledonia Cattle Fair, and the first but one that ever met in this town. A ringing an- nouncement was sent out, saying
"Come, every body ! Come to St. Johnsbury Plain ; bring the produce of your flocks and fields ; bring the old ox and the young ox ; the Yankee sheep, Merino sheep, Saxon sheep, Irish sheep ; bring your Durham and Devonshire cow, short horn or no horn, cow, calf or heifer ! Bring Byfield and Yankee pig; Yankee, English, French and Morgan horse or pony ! We want to see your big pumpkin, your great squash, your melons worth a dol- lar, your beets and carrots, and dont forget your onions! Mechanics bring your leather, your saddles and harness, your boots and shoes, your iron, steel and brass and wood work, and whatever else you've made.
"O yes ; and there across the way from Wilcox's Inn, you'll see the La- ides' Fair; not only fair faces but fine things you've never dreamp't of
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silks, worsteds, woolens, linens, carpets, rugs, quilts, counterpanes ; here you may buy your collars, bosoms, stocks, caps, or any kind of jimcracks, with cakes, coffee, tea, crackers and raisins to your heart's content. This will be your chance to buy, to sell, to swap, to give away ; to do any clever, honest, good natured thing you please."
When the day arrived, Sept. 27, the movement of population was toward St. Johnsbury Plain. Five hundred and eighty wheeled vehicles rolled in, troops of horsemen galloped along the roads and many trudged their way on foot ; upwards of 1500 in all. The plowing match was on a field where the Methodist church now is ; the trotting course was "the street," now called Main Street. Every wagon became a lunch counter for the family, and the Wilcox tavern had sumptuous fare-not a man got drunk. After dinner, Henry Stevens of Barnet gave the address of the day in the meeting house; this was followed by music from the organ played by John H. Paddock, and a Farmer's Song of thirteen stanzas, sung by Mr. Wood; four stanzas of this production are here quoted ; set to the tune Star Spangled Banner.
"Ye brown bonnie rustics and Lords of the Soil, Come, let a short ditty amuse you awhile ; For Farmers who live by the sweat of the brow, Oft join in a song as they follow the plow.
CHORUS With Gallant and Golding and Dobbin we go, While our fields loud re-echo GEE-UP and GEE-O !
Time was when the plow with its hoggle and jog, Just turned up the turf like the snout of a hog ; But modern improvement with stout sturdy team Goes the depth of the soil, tho it reach to the beam.
John Bull calls us pumpkins-what argufies that? But to prove that our soil is both mellow and fat : He may rail if he please, but I guess 'tis agreed, That John has found pith in a small pumpkin seed.
John Glover, he wedded the sweet Molly Bean, Who learned of her mother to knit and to spin ; To milk and to churn, to make cheeses and such, They managed with prudence and throve like the Dutch ;
With Gallant and Golding and Dobbin we Go While our fields loud re-echo GEE-UP and GEE-HO!"
The concluding stanza exhorts us all to go and do as John and Molly did.
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That year as so uniformly since, the Waterford oxen were at the front, Ezekiel Cutler's four-year-olds taking the premium. Jacob Ide of Barnet had the best cow ; John Ide of St. Johns- bury the best three year old heifer; Geo. Ayer the best yearling steers, Dennis May of Waterford the best bull. Hial Bradley of Wheelock brought the best potatoes ; Simon Stevens of Barnet the best sugar beets; John Ide the best butter, Willard Hawkins, best cheese.
Capt. Harris Knapp raised in St. Johnsbury eighty bushels of shelled corn on one acre ; Dr. Beniah Sanborn raised 1038 pump- kins on 84 square rods and 4040 ruta-bagas on 42 square rods. The weight of Alexander Blair's Barnet turnip is not recorded ; but William Hall of the Center Village produced a squash of 55 lbs., and another of 59 1bs. Amos Belknap's hand vise and plyers were of superior workmanship, and so was the splendid and beautiful mahogany work-table made by Col. Ira Armington.
The award committee found many nice things, as was prom- ised, in the Ladies' Fair : "Colored sewing silk by Miss Electa Skinner and white silk by Miss Sophia Stevens of Barnet, not in- ferior to the best Italian for evenness and strength of thread and for brilliancy of color-demonstrating the importance of this do- mestic industry essential for our national wealth and for inde- pendence of foreign fabrics. Three pieces of Cassimere of fine fabric, one from the clip of Hon. Ephraim Paddock, a most beauti- ful article ; creditable alike to the producer and the manufacturer. Also a shawl of excellent fabric in imitation of Highland Plaid, made by Susannah Grout." ERASTUS FAIRBANKS, Chairman.
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