USA > Washington > Lincoln County > An illustrated history of the Big Bend country, embracing Lincoln, Douglas, Adams, and Franklin counties, state of Washington, pt 1 > Part 13
USA > Washington > Adams County > An illustrated history of the Big Bend country, embracing Lincoln, Douglas, Adams, and Franklin counties, state of Washington, pt 1 > Part 13
USA > Washington > Douglas County > An illustrated history of the Big Bend country, embracing Lincoln, Douglas, Adams, and Franklin counties, state of Washington, pt 1 > Part 13
USA > Washington > Franklin County > An illustrated history of the Big Bend country, embracing Lincoln, Douglas, Adams, and Franklin counties, state of Washington, pt 1 > Part 13
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So early as 1858 what is now Lincoln coun- ty was traversed by a party of miners on their way to the famous Fraser river mines. Hun- dreds of sanguine, stalwart men passed through the Territory of Washington and up the Okan- ogan river, that year, to the newly discovered gold fields which, at that period had created the wildest excitement, as did the Klondike country in the 90's. There is substantial evi- (lence that at least one party en route to the Fraser river made its way there via Lincoln county. A company of 350 men and several thousand head of stock left The Dalles, Oregon, bound for Fraser river. They traveled from The Dalles to Walla Walla where government officials were then building the fort. Here the company employed an Indian to guide them to the mouth of the Okanogan river. The guide lost the trail and the mining party struck the Columbia, opposite the mouth of the Sans Poil
river. From there they made their way to the Okanogan country. It required a number of days to cross the Columbia. In due time they won their way to the Fraser river, about thirty days out from The Dalles to the diggings.
Among the party who crossed the Big Bend plains in 1858 were J. R. Whitaker, who in 188I returned to Lincoln county and settled on a ranch near Harrington, and Hiram F. Smith, better known in politics and mining circles as "Okanogan Smith." Returning from the Fra- ser river country in 1860 Mr. Smith took up a ranch at the foot of Osoyoos lake, in what is now Okanogan county. Here he resided for many years and did much for the advancement of that northern country. In 1861 William Newman, after whom Newman's lake was named, came to the present site of Sprague. Here he became proprietor of a station for trav- elers and government express animals. At that early period Mr. Newman's nearest neighbors were a lone settler at the mouth of the Palouse river, and Mr. James Monaghan. The latter came to this country in 1860 and established a ferry on the newly completed military road where it crossed the Spokane river, some twen- ty miles below the falls. Mr. Monaghan sub- sequently had charge of what was known as the Lapray bridge.
One of the first permanent settlers-if not the first-to locate in what afterwards became Lincoln county, was R. M. Bacon. Mr. Bacon left his home in Boston in 1860 and headed for the west. Three years later he came to the Col- ville valley, in Stevens county, where he re- mained until 1871. He then came to the Crab creek country, in Lincoln county, and engaged in raising cattle. Save for an occasional band of Indians and the wild animals that ranged over the prairies, the entire country was a wildl waste, destitute of life and denounced by mili- tary authority as a howling desert. Mr. Bacon confesses that he was a trifle lonesome the first year he passed in the Crab creek country, but after that he was satisfied with his fot. He says
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that occasionally the Indians were a little ugly. but he was never molested, and did not think there was ever real cause for alarm. Within a few years after Mr. Bacon's arrival in this part of the country other hardy pioneers came and settled in his vicinity. In course of time a post- office was established on Crab creek, known as the Crab creek Post Office. Mr. Bacon became the first postmaster in Lincoln county. Mail was received once a week by stage.
When the first settlers ventured out upon the broad bunch grass plains of Lincoln county and other parts of Central Washington, only the bottom lands along flowing creeks were con- sidered of any value, and in such places these early pioneers sought to make themselves homes. For agricultural purposes the uplands were considered worthless ; fit only for roving bands of cattle, horses and sheep. But a few years later and it was discovered that the up- lands were the better, and settlers who located upon them soon found that they were more eligibly situated than those who had preceded them and chosen homes on creek bottoms.
Undoubtedly the oldest settler of Lincoln county, or of the whole Big Bend country, was Samuel Wilbur Condin ( sometimes spelled Condit. ) but who was better known through- out the northwest as "Wild Goose Bill." Feb- ruary 1, 1895. the Wilbur Register explained editorially, as follows :
"As there seems to be some question con- cerning the correct orthography of 'Wild Goose Bill's' name. the Register will state, on the au- ity of his own signature, that the proper spelling is Samuel Wilbur Condit. The surname was originally Condin, but some years ago it was erroneously spelled Condit in a patent from the government, and this orthography Bill accept- ed, and has since spelled his name accordingly."
Samuel Wilbur Condit, who was known personally or by reputation to almost every man woman or child in the Pacific northwest, as "Wild Goose Bill," was born in Orange, New Jersey, about 1835. Being from childhood of
an adventurous disposition he struck out early for the west in search of fortune. He stopped for a time in Illinois, but soon pushed on to the golden shore of California, where he ar- rived at an early day. Thence he drifted north- ward, and in the 60's he was engaged in freighting over the trackless plains of the Big Bend from Walla Walla to the placer camps along the Columbia river. The exact date that he came to this country is uncertain. In an interview in 1889 he made the statement that he had lived in the Big Bend thirty years which would make the period of his arrival in 1859. Condit, or Condin, was a "squaw man," and for years lived in a country where the face of a white man was seldom seen. About 1875 he became known to the few early settlers of east- ern Washington. At that period he was pro- prietor of a cayuse pack train engaged in trans- porting supplies from Walla Walla and other points which were then supply depots for the unsettled region embracing northern Idaho and northeastern Washington, to miners and pros- pectors scattered through the mountains, and to surveyors who were then exploring the coun- try, seeking a feasible route to the seaboard for the Northern Pacific railroad. Condin had made frequent trips through the Big Bend country to the mines of the north. It was one day, long ago, that he first saw the site where Wilbur now stands. He stood on the dividing ridge south of town. and saw the clear waters of the Little Ridge. fringed with a luxuriant growth of aspens. willows and cottonwood, meandering down the valley and off through a natural meadow to the beautiful lake nestling among the rocks a mile below. Then and there he resolved that at some future time he would call this charming spot his home, and he fre- quently made it his resting place during long and toilsome journeys.
At length, probably about 1875. becoming wearied of his nomadic life, he pitched his tent in this beautiful valley and made it his per- manent home. The land at that time was tin-
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surveyed, but he staked off his claim, built a ! cabin, disposed of his pack train, invested all of his available cash in horses and cattle and branched out into the stock-growing business. Later, when the land was surveyed, Condit made his filing, and afterwards made final proof and acquired title from the United States gov- ernment to the land on which is now located the town of Wilbur. It was at this time that the government made the mistake of engrossing the papers and land patent under the name of "Condit." According to the rude forms of marriage practiced among her tribe he took to himself an Indian maiden. His frontier ranch, marked on the early maps by hardy explorers as "Wild Goose Bill's Place," was the ground occupied by the site of the present flourishing town of Wilbur. Here, for many years, he continued to reside with his Indian wife by whom he had three sons. A mass of sensational stories have been floated concerning Condin's wild life. It has been asserted that he had killed innumerable Indians "for interfering with his domestic relations." His killing rec- ord, however, embraced five Indians, shot in a running fight while resisting arrest. The story which has been repeated many times, that he killed the man who first dubbed him "Wild Goose Bill," is untrue. The following, his last will and testament, made just prior to his tragic death, is of historical intererst :
"Condin's Ferry, January 19, 1895. Know all men by these presents that I Samuel Wilbur Condit being in my right mind & knowing that life is uncertain do make my last will and testament on this day of our Lord January the ninteant eightten hundred & nity five it is my desire to give my son george Conduit my prop- perty known as Condine fery & to will & be- queath to my son Willey Condit five dollars & fifty cents the balance of my property real & pirsinel to my cripple son Charles excepting my interest that myself & R. J. Reave Hold jointly on seteion eight I will my interest on the same to R J Reaves & his Heirs & assigease I
alsor appoint R J Reave my Adminesterater & exectuor without bonds stipulating that he see to my eripple son Charles & that he is well taken care of as long as he Lives my propperty known as the Mitchell place I bequeath to R. J. Reaves provided he pays the Mortgag on the same it is my de- sire that R. J. Reaves rents my proper- ty & aplyes the rents to the maintence of my cripple son Charles in case of His Death it is my desire that my sole property shall be aplied to the School fund of Wilbur, & also that theree Be enoughf sold to pay all of my Just debts. Hoping & trusting that R J Reaves will act in good faith I revoke all former wills up to this date witness my Hand & Seal
"(My Hand & Seal) "Samuel Wilbur Condit "Witness George G. James "Burt D. Woodin"
"Wild Goose Bill" had his good traits, but, raised in a rough school, in which self-reliance and the unbounded freedom of the frontier that inculcates the impression that might makes right, endow a man with unconventional char- aeteristics that would not be regarded as en- tirely the pink of propriety, Bill, had, also, his weaknesses. Condin located and lived on the land now embraced in the townsite of Wilbur. He also owned a ferry on the Columbia river, that was operated for many years, and other col- lateral that made him a comparatively wealthy man. There were no white women in the land when Condin first settled therein, and he took tinto himself an Indian wife. By her he had several children. Later in life he married an- other squaw and a child was born that developed into a helpless cripple. In his later years the whole affection of the old man was concentrated in this deformed, epileptic, speechless offspring. His intese love for the unfortunate child was a redeeming feature in the rough, frontiersman's life. The manner in which S. W. Condin se- cured the cognomen, "Wild Goose Bill," is told by the Lincoln County Times :
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"It is said that Mr. Condin received his pic- turesque nickname when he was a callow youth of twenty summers. The Big Bend country was, as yet, unsettled. Condin was out on a hunting expedition and he wanted game. Sud- denly he espied a large flock of geese on a lit- tle rivulet. His heart stood still. Cautiously he crept closer and closer to the unsuspecting quarry. The geese rose and fell on each little ripple, and with the proverbial stupidity of geese imagined themselves in safety.
"The huntsman drew nearer and nearer.
"Suddenly the sport commenced. Condin began shooting, and in a short time had bagged the entire flock. Then a woman who had set- tled on a neighboring clearing, approached and viewed the scene of slaughter.
"What business have you killing my pets ? she yelled in a voice pitched in C alt.
"The story got out, and the man who mis- took a flock of tame birds for wild ones, wore the original title, 'Wild Goose Bill,' until his death. The virago was appeased by the pay- ment of several pieces of silver, but the incident came down from mouth to mouth to the present generation."
Many years previous to the advent of white men in the Big Bend country it is known that Chinamen carried on placer mining along the upper Columbia river. These Celestials have worked the gold from the sands of that river. ever since, in a primitive way and undoubtedly fortunes have been secured. One of many spots visited in the early days by the Chinese was in Lincoln county, opposite the mouth of the Sans Poil river.
Sam Wow, an aged Chinaman and a pio- neer miner of the Columbia bars, in this vicin- ity, is now a resident of Wulbur. Sam claims to have first done placer mining here about 1864, and travelers through the country ten years after this date state that he was engaged in work there. Sam is uncertain of the exact date when he came to the country, but he re- members that he was ushered in by the worst
snowstorm that ever visited the locality. Ac- cording to his description any storm of later years would certainly have to take second place in the climatology of Washington. He came in from the east and states that in places the snow was ten feet deep and the cold terrible. As a consequence of that first trip to the Colum- bia placer fields Sam Wow lost the first joint from each one of his ten fingers, and, also, suffered the separation between himself and several of his toes. But he was not to be de- terred by such a calamity. He had entered upon a prospecting tour which included a visit to the upper Columbia, and thither he went. Age and continual stooping while shoveling the gravel from placer beds have imparted a permanent twist to his body; his manner of walking im- parts the impression of an animated corkscrew.
Captain John McGourin, an early settler of Lincoln county, came about 1875.
June 14, 1877. Chief Joseph's band of Nez Perces took up arms, their field of operations being Camas Prairie, in Idaho. The United States government at once proceeded with vigor to suppress the uprising, but the troops did not arrive in time to prevent the murder by Indians of many defenseless and inoffensive settlers. Reports gained currency that the Palouses. Couer d' Alenes, and Spokanes had gone on the war-path, and that Chief Moses was on his way south to join the hostile warriors. A general feeling of uneasiness prevailed among the set- tlers of eastern Washington. Then the people were thrown into a panic and the wildest and most ludicrous excitement prevailed. Utterly unfounded rumors of massacres and depreda- tions were passed from person to person and, as is usual in such cases, they lost nothing of their hideous aspect in the course of their trav- els. In Whitman county fear assumed the pro- portions of a panic. Reason appeared to have temporarily surrendered hier citadel and wild fancy ruled. The stock, which at the time lap- pened to be in corrals, were left without food or drink, while the animals fortunate enough
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to be at liberty when the "scare" developed, wandered about at will. Settlers hastily re- paired to Colfax. Wagons were driven down the steep hills heading to the Whitman county seat town at a gallop. Never before or since have the streets of Colfax witnessed such a scene of turmoil. It is certain that had there been any Indians in the vicinity disposed to make an attack but feeble resistance could have been offered under the circumstances. Many of the fugitives dared not trust even Colfax or Palouse for protection, but pushed on until Walla Walla or Dayton had been reached. Rifles, revolvers, shotguns and weapons of all kinds were hurridly made ready for use. Men rushed about excitedly while women and chil- dren greeted each new report of butcheries with loud lamentations and wailings. The Indians, many miles away, were no doubt totally un- conscious of the commotion they were causing. and, as was afterwards discovered, the northern Indians were somewhat perturbed, believing the whites were meditating offensive rather than defensive warfare.
Settlers on Crab creek, now within the ter- ritory comprising the counties of Lincoln and Douglas, like the settlers in Whitman and other portions of eastern Washington, abandoned their homes so soon as the first danger note had been sounded. They set out for Walla Walla and other points, but before proceeding far on their journey some of the bolder ones decided to return to their homes and brave all dangers. Meanwhile a small band of Columbia river In- dians on their way from the camas grounds, had discovered that everything was deserted and had helped themselves to whatever they could find in the way of provisions, clothing and stock. The returned farmers saw these depredations, and not remaining to ascertain their true extent, fled in haste, circulating all sorts of exaggerated reports. Their stories had the effect of confirming the general impres- sion of an uprising of the northern Indians. Among the many settlers who rushed to Col-
fax there were a few logical enough to desire some certain evidence of the presence of Indians in their section. About twenty of these organ- ized themselves into a scouting party, and on the second day of the scare set out on an expe- dition. They saw no traces of hostilities. None of the farms which they visited had been in any way disturbed, but the cattle in the corrals were beginning to feel the pangs of hunger and thirst, and were endeavoring to make their wants known by brute signals. At Fort How- ard, Idaho, the party was informed that Joseph's band had not crossed the Clearwater, a bit of news which, no doubt, proved very soothing to the friends at home. It was said by some one that the Catholic missionary, Father Cataldo, was being detained at his mission by the Coeur d' Alene Indians, and two of the party, D. S. Bowman and James Tipton, set out for that place to investigate, while the rest returned to Colfax. Messrs. Bowman and Tipton found the Indians greatly excited, believing the "Bos- tons," as they called the Americans, were pre- paring to attack them. They had construed the warlike preparations as evidence of hostile in- tent on the part of the whites and were prepar- ing to defend themselves if assaulted. The same was true of the Palouse and Spokane tribes. There can be no doubt that the service of the two dauntless white men in this matter was of inestimable value. They allayed the fears of the red men, explaining the true situa- tion and convincing them of the pacific dispo- sition of the whites. The account which they brought back to Colfax had a pacifying influ- ence there, and as further evidence that no harm was intended they bore certificates of peaceful intentions from the chiefs. These had been procured by Father Cataldo. The arrival of these two men at Colfax was most opportune. The settlers returned to their homes and found that in some instances the Indians, far from en- tertaining a hostile thought, had even protected the crops from damage by loose cattle and taken care of the deserted property.
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June 30th, Rev. H. T. Cawley, a mission- ary stationed at Spokane Falls, wrote concern- ing the attitude of the Indians in that vicinity : "I hasten to give assurance of the pacific dis- position of the Spokanes, also of the Snake River, Nez Perce and Palouse Indians camped here. In public council held last Monday at the 'Falls,' they unanimously declared their friend- liness toward the whites, and we have found them thus far unusually careful to avoid giving offense. The Spokanes, have, of course, been somewhat alarmed both at the gathering of the whites at Colfax, and at the 'Falls,' but now that all have returned to their homes every- thing has quited down."
It is evident that no real danger ever exist- ed and that the scare was utterly baseless in fact. The northern Indians never contempla- ted an outbreak and the hostile tribes returned east over the Lolo trail, utterly ignoring the Palouse country. Ludicrous though the white stampede may seem, a momentons crisis exist- ed, for such were the conditions prevailing among both whites and Indians that an indis- creet act on the part either might have precipi- tated a barbarous and sanguinary war.
In 1878 O. B. Parks, one of the pioneer settlers of Lincoln county, came from Califor- nia and settled one mile north of the present site of Davenport. The same year J. G. Keth- roe located on a homestead in the neighbor- hood of Reardan, and Barney Fitzpatrick set- tled on a stock ranch and engaged in the busi- ness of raising cattle. Soon after the establish- ment of Fort Spokane he contracted with the United States government to supply the troops with fresh beef.
Among the very earliest to make a home in Lincoln county were Mr. and Mrs. A. D. Strout. They secured a homestead four and one-half miles southeast of Davenport in 1879. Taking the limit of the number of acres a muni- ficient government grants to every bona fide settler, Mr. Strout's original possession con- sisted of 160 acres. When he settled on his
homestead his property consisted of three horses, a dilapidated wagon and only a few dol- lars. One of the horses was killed by an acci- dent the first winter. His nearest neighbor lived fifteen miles distant. After erecting a small "shack" Mr. Strout drove to Colfax for his winter's supplies and seed for the fol- lowing season. Upon reaching home he had remaining in money just ten cents. Undaunt- ed, himself and wife started in to build up a home in the new country. Their many make- shifts are amusing to talk of at the present day, but were, indeed, trying at the time. They drove a long distance to a neighbor's and made an arrangement by which Mr. Strout took a sow to feed and winter for half the pigs. Mrs. Strout secured a hen, half of the brood to be paid for the use of the bird. During the winter the couple managed to get hold of a Mexican dollar; in the spring it was pawned to a sheep lierder for a mutton. Mr. Strout was unable to redeem the pledge. For flour they dried wheat in the oven and ground it in a coffee mill. The shifty expediences to get along were only similar to the experience of many of the early settlers. However, Mr. Strout never despaired. Serious accidents he encountered, once accident- ly shooting himself from which he barely re- covered. He was treated by physicians from Sprague and Fort Spokane; at another time he suffered from a fearful kick in the face. But adversity did not remain with him always. Gradually he accumulated land and personal property until he became independent.
The original settler to locate a homestead in the "Egypt" country was Joseph M. Nichols, who came there in 1879.
Mr. C. C. May, president of the Big Bend National Bank, Davenport, came to Lincoln county in the earliest days of its eventful his- tory in 1879. At that period he was a member of a government surveying party. He was pleased with the country and decided to locate here. Securing a homestead within five miles of the present site of Davenport he erected a
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small house consisting of one room, measuring from the ground to the ceiling seven feet. A year or two later he added a second room and again a third. Concerning the condition of the country at that pioneer period Mr. May said : "Why, we could travel for weeks and not see a white man. The only white person I remem- ber was "Wild Goose Bill,' who was holding the fort at what is now the town of Wilbur."
Mr. May has left his impress upon the com- munity in which he resides, and has labored assiduously to build up the country. In 1880 he was chosen one of the commissioners of Spo- kane county, which then comprised the present counties of Lincoln and Douglas. Although he has been pressed to accept many other offices this is the only one he ever held in this locality.
In 1879 A. G. Courtright settled on a farm a short distance east from where Mondovi now stands. In company with his son he conducted the stage station there for many years. It was an inn, or caravansary, for all travelers who passed back and forth from the Big Bend pre- vious to the advent of railroads. Among other early pioneers were Mr. and Mrs. L. A. Ken- nedy who came to the country in 1879, settling on a homestead a few miles southeast of Dav- enport. T. M. Cooper, who became prominent as a business man and active politician, came also in 1879, settling near the present site of Creston. The same year Byron Richards lo- cated on a homestead near old Mondovi. Among others who "spied out the country" the same year and found it good were James ITurlbert, who made his residence one and one- half miles west of Davenport; Horace Parker, locating in the Crab creek country near the pres- ent town of Lamona; and Mr. and Mrs. John Oakley who pitched their tent in Egypt, coming here from California.
Major John Worts, now a resident of Day- enport, is a pioneer of Lincoln county, having paid his first visit to the country in 1879. He traveled over the greater portion of the pres- ent Lincoln county, and his description of the
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