USA > Wisconsin > Rock County > Beloit > Past made present : the first fifty years of the First Presbyterian Church and congregation of Beloit, Wisconsin together with a history of Presbyterianism in our state up to the year 1900 > Part 19
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This boat is much larger and cleaner than the Ariel, but also slower. We shall probably take fifteen days for our journey on this side. The tables are better supplied in some respects than those of the Ariel. Instead of apples we have oranges. Green peas, beans and corn are in abundant supply.
Wednesday, Feb. 13th, 1861. The weather is very pleasant but warm. Our room opens out on deck. We sleep with the door ajar and even then are uncomfortable it is so hot. One poor fellow found a watery grave last night. He was a fireman and was not missed for some time. It is supposed that he fell or walked off the gang-way, as a place was found open contrary to ship rules at night. On my questioning one of the sailors about such events he replied, " We never pay any attention to a man overboard. Its no use, for before we could get to him some shark would have him."
To-day we saw a large school of porpoises, the water seemed alive with them. They were about six feet long, and some would jump out of the water their whole length, turn a full half circle or more and fall back again. They grunt much like a hog and appear to enjoy themselves.
We are sailing near the coast, and there is prospect that the weather will soon be cooler. The water we have to drink is as yellow as old rain water, that which has been standing a long while, and as warm as if it had been heated on the stove. It is kept in an iron tank and rust settles on the bottom of your tumbler. We can have ice (brought from New York or the Russian possessions) at 25 cents per pound. Four of us buy a pound for dinner which answers very well. Between meals we drink as little as we can and put some brandy in that little. Breakfast comes at half-past eight, lunch at noon, and at half-past four we have a meal which cannot be sur- passed This is the fashion, a way of living which does not suit me. Occa- sionally we drink ale or porter, as the doctor says that is better than so much water. Coming from such a cold climate as ours, if we escape the fever we shall be fortunate.
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February 14th, 1861. Awakened about midnight by a confused murmur of voices on deck, I arose and dressed, and on going out found that the shaft of one wheel of our side-wheel steamer was broken. In the morning at daybreak we started on again with the other wheel, but very slowly. Should a gale arise the engine must stop, as our remaining wheel would soon fail us and we would have to depend wholly on our sail.
The "California," which left San Francisco the same day we left New York, passed us yesterday bound for Panama. The "Ariel " is waiting for her passengers, and the " California " will wait for the "Northern Light," which sailed from New York the 11th. Some think we shall stop at Acapulco until the " California" returns, and then be towed by her. If no further accident occurs we expect to reach that port next Monday, the 18th. The captain says we shall go on if possible. It is to be hoped that we shall not have to stay there long, as the place will be hot and sickly. The passengers are gloomy and disconsolate, not knowing what our fate is to be, only that we have narrowly escaped an ocean grave. Had the heavy shaft broken a few inches either way from where it did break we should have been lost, as its thirty tons of metal falling through the bottom of the boat would cer- tainly have sunk us.
They begin to be careful of water and provisions. If we reach Acapulco, Mexico, we can recruit our supply of both, and with good luck may see California within twenty days. We are now making about eight miles an hour, and are considered to be doing as well as could be expected.
Friday, Feb. 15th, 1861. We are jogging slowly along, and the captain says we shall reach San Francisco in two weeks. "Uncle Sam" keenly feels the loss of his limb. By the boat's time table I see that we have made only 169 miles during the last twenty-four hours, seven miles an hour, slow progress. This is the real Pacific ; the sea is calm and plenty of fish are seen. We are now in the gulf of Tehauntepec, where sailors always expect a blow and rough sea. They are trying to strengthen our remaining wheel as much as possible. Captain says that if we escape a storm here we are safe, and that it will take twenty-four hours to cross the gulf.
Last evening we had quite a concert on the promenade deck. It was both vocal and instrumental, and continued till a late hour. Today we were invited to visit the steerage, cook-room, etc., and found everything very neat and clean. There are a number of Spanish cattle on board for beef. They do not look much like our stock, being quite small, but with broad spreading horns. We have also sheep and hogs. This boat is kept clean. Every morning just before daylight the deck in front of our room is scoured, or holy-stoned as the sailors say, which makes it look very white. The brass door-sills and the wood-work in our rooms are also scoured daily. The Jewess has one of the berths in our room, which contains three berths and a large sofa occupied by Mrs. Q.
Saturday, Feb. 16th, 1861. Still calm and pleasant. Run during the last twenty-four hours, 196 miles, which is considered doing well. That is the distance in a straight line, but we have followed the coast, going about 220 miles.
We are sailing nearer the land here than a steamer has ever ventured before. The water is covered with what looks like saw dust and the sailors
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call "whale's feed." Today we have seen our first whales. They do not come very near, but we can distinctly see them in the distance spouting and jumping in the water. The scenery to-day is varied. Sometimes we are sailing so near shore that we have a delightful view of the mountains, and again we strike out to sea and they fade into distance. We have just passed two large volcanoes, which by the aid of a glass could be seen plainly. Some imagined they saw smoke ascending from their summits, but I am inclined to think it was a floating white cloud. Great numbers of birds are following in our wake to-day. By the sailors they are called "boobies," from the fact that when they light on deck they have not sense enough to fly away again. I have known some men like them.
We are looking for a rougher sea soon. The crowd seem for the most part cheerful, although last night our ship started to catch fire, and sprang a leak also, but no great damage was done.
Some of our ladies are distressed because the purser does not notice them so much as he does others. One lady seems anxious to secure the attention of a certain gentleman, and has at last engaged him for a promenade. Anoth- er, from the "ould counthry," was asked to take a walk and replied that she wished nothing said to her by gentlemen unless they had serious inten- tions. Consequently she is left to her own reflections.
Sunday, Feb. 17th, 1861. But few of our number are able to get out this morning on account of sea-sickness. At about dark last evening the wind rose and the sea became a little rough. Timid Mrs. Q. was sure our other wheel would break and we must go down, she having had a presenti- ment from the first that the steamer Uncle Sam would never reach port. I was not much alarmed, but as she could not sleep, got up and dressed and sat with her gazing out on the wide waste of waters revealed by moonlight. Soon after midnight I persuaded her to retire, promising if the wind rose to get up again. Two hours later she waked me and hastily dressing I went on deck and found her sitting in a chair by the ship's rail, a picture of des- pair. Her dress was wet with spray, and one side of her face covered with an incrustation of salt. The wind blew a strong gale, though the moon was shining. But she thought of our disabled vessel, of her children, of her dis- tant husband, and her heart failed her. Not until five o'clock did I succeed in quieting her fears so that she laid her head on my shoulder and went to sleep. Finally I persuaded her to lie down on the sofa where she slept until nine. At half-past ten the gong sounded for divine service. A small com- pany assembled on the leeward side of the ship with the Bishop dressed in his white robe. Above the roar of the tempest his voice was heard saying, "Deliver us from perils by land and sea," to which the audience faintly responded, "Good Lord deliver us." As it was difficult for him to be heard he spoke very briefly, and at seven o'clock preached in the steerage.
Our last day's run has been 160 miles. During the night little progress was made. The wind was dead ahead and the Captain stood at the helm until morning. He is said to be the best commander on the route. Whales are plenty and to-day we saw a number quite near.
Monday, Feb. 18th, 1861. It is pleasant to-day. We are making good progress and if nothing hinders will probably reach Acapulco tomorrow. Passengers are busy writing letters to be sent back by the Golden Age, which we shall pass to-night. We hope for no further accident.
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Tuesday, Feb. 19th. We were roused about midnight by a hail from the Age. Both steamers stopped, a boat was lowered and our captain went aboard of her, taking our mail. All eagerly watched his return, especially the gentlemen, who wanted to get the California news.
The moon shone brightly and as soon as the returning boat was within hail Gen. Colton called out, "What's the news?" The captain replied, "California has not seceded yet."
About 3 A. M. we entered the harbor of Acapulco, (a port of the province of Michoagan, and about 250 miles south-west of the city of Mexico.)
At daylight I dressed and went on deck to see what was to be seen. The natives are not allowed on board but come alongside in canoes, as we are anchored about half a mile out. They bring oranges, limes, eggs, cocoa- nuts, coral and sea shells. When you wish to buy they throw up a line attached to a basket. Down goes the money and up come your goods. Boats nicely cushioned and covered are ready to carry you ashore for two bits (25 cents). We are taking on coal and provisions for the rest of the voyage, and it is quite amusing to see them bring out the cattle. Sixteen were lashed by the horns to a large canoe, (eight on each side), brought alongside our steamer and then hoisted on board with tackles. The boat will stop here only a few hours so we have gone ashore to view the beauties of the place. That certainly does not mean the native women, who are dressed in a skirt and chemise. Some of the men wear simply a shirt, some only a girdle, and others their birth-day suits,* a race of beings inferior in some respects to those at Aspinwall. They are good swimmers and will dive after a dime in the water, never failing to bring it up in their teeth. One of our men got into a fight with a native and was arrested and placed in irons. The captain went over to the trial and he was released. We liave taken in a supply of fruit and a basket of shells.
Wednesday, Feb. 20, 1861. Here we are yet and likely to stay for awhile. The inspector, Mr. Coffee, has examined the boat and found the other shaft cracked. He says it is a miracle that we ever reached this port. We must now wait until the California returns, which will be ten days at least. If we do not succeed in getting upon that we will have to wait ten days longer for the Golden Age. What long faces ! At the table all are silent and each seems to have lost his appetite. This afternoon certain pas- sengers prepared fishing apparatus and caught and dragged on board a large shark. The men (not gentlemen) so crowd around the huge fish tliat a lady is in danger of being crushed if she attempts to see it. In response, how- ever, to several cries of "Clear the way for the ladies," a space is cleared and just as we are expecting a good view of the shark a rustle and bustle is heard, the Bishop rushes up, crowds in ahead of us and sees the fish to his complete satisfaction. Then comes our turn and the shark is beheaded and thrown overboard. Today also a large whale came in sight, swimming around the ship.
Thursday, Feb. 21st, 1861. The passengers seem to enjoy themselves, fishing and sailing. Many are imprudent about eating fruit and going out in the hot sun, for which carelessness they may get the fever. Oranges are no longer a treat. Natives brought some this morning just plucked from
*As Sterne would say.
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the tree and Mrs. Q. bought a branch with five on it, the largest I ever saw. Here also we find the pomegranate, spoken of in the Bible. Today we sent out the washing at $2.50 per dozen. Our ice is now gone. The water here is very warm but good. Natives make a porous earthen vessel, called a monkey, which keeps water quite cool. We bought one today for three bits and like it.
Friday, Feb. 22d, 1861. Hot this morning, but cooler after the breeze rises. This is called one of the finest natural harbors in the world. You enter through a narrow pass between high hills and mountains that rise grad- ually from the coast to the height of three miles. From the ship few build- ings can be seen, but on going to the city you find hundreds of huts made of cocoanut leaves and limbs and without doors or windows. Today we employed a guide and have taken a ramble among the Mexicanos. We were led first to the fort. Then we walked about two miles to a plantation where oranges and other kinds of fruit, new and curious, were growing in great abundance, like apples with us in Wisconsin. There also was a kind of pub- lic house, a shed covered with cocoa leaves, with clean swept stone floor and seats for visitors. The people appeared friendly and in return for some change brought us a branch of oranges, flowers, and a very pleasant drink called anisette. They also showed us growing pine-apple plants, odd look- ing to us with their long pointed thick leaves. After resting there an hour, on our way back we met a mule train, loaded with sacks of cocoa going to Mexico. The driver forms his animals into a line by fastening the halter of each mule except the leader to the tail of the mule before him. As we were leaving shore for the ship half a dozen little natives came swimming after our boat crying out, "Catch dimes." We threw a dime, down went the whole crowd, and very soon one of them caught the precious bit.
Several of the passengers are not feeling very well and seem to be much frightened. Well they may be for there are a number of cases of yellow fever on shore. As I raise my eyes from the paper I see plainly the white stone under a cocoa tree over there which covers the remains of our last American consul for this port. He died last summer with the black plague. Out of twenty Americans here then, sixteen fell victims to that disease. Our first mate is lying sick with sore throat, but is getting better. If we our- selves escape the fever it will be strange. We are expecting the California next Tuesday, but whether we shall get a berth in her or not we cannot tell.
Saturday, Feb. 23d, 1861. Time drags heavily with most of us. Yellow fever is raging on shore yet passengers still continue going to the city. We have one case of Panama fever on board, a child three years old. The doc- tor thinks it may get well.
The weather is very warm, but most of the time there is a pleasant sea breeze. Some of our smart young men have been gambling with the natives and have lost all their money. There are a number of stores here. Calico is two bits per yard, lawn the same excepting linen lawn, which is three bits. Other goods are in proportion.
Sunday, Feb. 24th, 1861. We have service on board as usual at half past ten. A few of our company are going on shore to attend church. The cap- tain and crew early this morning went fishing with a seine and brought back about two bushels of all kinds of fish. The most singular was the porcupine
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fish. It was round like a ball and covered all over with spines resembling porcupine quills, each spine sharp pointed and three or four inches long. This kind is said to be poisonous. They caught a number of small fish which are fine eating.
Monday, Feb. 25th, 1861. A very sultry day, and the heat alınost intol- erable. Last night is said to have been the warmest ever known by Ameri- cans living here. We went on shore today, visited the burying ground and made a short call at a house near by. Two little naked girls were swinging in a hammock. The mother was sewing ; one of the daugliters seemed to be making bread ; two boys were pounding corn, while the father was sleep- ing on the ground. They gave us flowers, coral and shells. We asked the madre how many muchachos she had. She held up both hands, meaning ten. One of the boys tied a rope around his waist, ran up a cocoa tree, and down came a dozen or more of the half ripe nuts. He opened one and gave us the milk to drink. Dogs are great favorites with the natives I asked one of the boys, who could speak a little English, how many he had. He replied, "Only eleven."
Tomorrow we expect the California, and great excitement prevails. That is a smaller boat than this and probably we shall not all of us be able to get on it. Some think we shall cast lots ; others that those first on the ticket list will have the first chance. If we do not secure passage on her we inust wait for the Golden Age. Rather than be jammed in with six in a room I shall wait.
Tuesday, Feb. 26th, 1861. All are busy packing trunks and writing let- ters to be left here. My trunk will not be packed until I am sure of going. As the California runs in connection with the Northern Light, the best boat on the other side, it is more than likely that she will be well loaded.
Wednesday, Feb. 27th, 1861. At seven last evening her signal gun was heard and she slowly entered the harbor. Then began the strapping of trunks and packing of satchels in case the trunks must be left. Prompt- ly our captain with a few others went on board, and minutes seemed hours as we watched for their return. At last they came back with sorrowful countenances. There are three hundred passengers on the California and only four vacant berths. Those holding the first nine tickets can go and the steerage passengers, not including women or children. Names are called off. One man is told that he can go while his wife cannot. Some of the first cabin passengers try to exchange tickets with the steerage passengers. Women beg the captain to let them go but in vain. The mail and the steerage people are taken off first. Soon the last boat is announced as ready, and with feelings of mingled sorrow and joy the chosen few of our number embark. One young lady, a favorite with us all, entreats her broth- er to wait or else let hier stay with us. But his business being urgent he feels obliged to go, and as to leaving her that cannot be. When they left we felt as though we were bidding farewell to old friends.
At 2 o'clock P. M. a signal gun announced the departure of the Califor- nia, which, groaning with her additional burden passed quite near us. We gave three cheers, which were answered from the deck. Miss C. waved her handkerchief and called out, "I want to come back. This is the dirtiest place I ever saw. There's small-pox and no place to lie down." The men
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shouted, "Good bye, Uncle Sam. Hope when we see you again you will have two legs. If we reach San Francisco will meet you at the dock when you enter port." As they passed us another gun was fired and the Uncle Sam replied twice in tones that made the mountains ring. When all was over, however, we retired with sorrowful hearts.
I arose this morning with a nervous headache, caused by the excitement of last night. The captain says, "You are all comfortable here, which you could not have been there, had you gone. They lost six passengers with the small pox."
We must content ourselves another week here and then the Age will come and tow us. This is a pleasant place, but is fast losing its charms for us. We are getting tired of seeing only dark Spanish faces, and long for the society of our own people.
Thursday, Feb. 28th, 1861. Mrs. M-br-y invited us to an outing on shore with her. Taking a basket of provisions and a bottle of wine we started for a cocoa grove about a mile from the steamer. Tliere we sat down to rest in a cabin while natives brought us cocoanuts to eat and the milk of them to drink. Near us was a well said to be tliree hundred years old. Sev- eral native women were washing clothes without any wash-board. For a tub they have a wooden bowl about three feet in diameter and three inches deep. They use cold water and a great deal of soap, and never boil the clothes, yet succeed in making them very white and clean.
Not daring to go on alone we hired three native young inen, sixteen to twenty years of age, to go with us. They were gentlemanly and seemed pleased with the idea of escorting Americans. One of them suddenly dis- appeared in the grove but soon returned riding what he called a burro, an ass, guided by a small cord tied around its lower jaw. The young man rode up to us and sitting as far back as possible invited me to ride. I mounted the donkey in front of him and took hold of its long ears to steady myself .* He held the rein and off we started with half a dozen little boys running behind and lashing the poor animal. The delighted natives laughed, shout- ed, rolled over on the ground, and in various other ways expressed their enjoyment at the sight. Mrs. Q. and Mrs. M. laughed 'till they cried, and said this last day of February would long be remembered by them. After my riding as long as I wished the young man politely assisted ine to dis- mount and then let four little boys get on the burro and gave them a merry ride. Observing a little path through the buslies we motioned our guides to follow it. They walked along laughing and talking lit e young gentlemen, but for us it was "No sabe," as the Mexicans say. Emerging from the grove we came to a spring where a large company of women were engaged in washing clothes. They had us sit down on inverted baskets, examined our jewelry, patted our shoulders and seemed really pleased to see us. One old lady was at a loss to know how to express her admiration. Finally she led ine by the hand to a large bowl, rolled up my sleeves, washed my hands and arms and wiped them neatly and then thanked me for the privi- lege. Many of theni followed us to the shore and invited us to come again tomorrow. We have learned a few words of their Spanish and can under- stand many things that they say to us. We returned to the ship for supper,
*At home Mrs. Twist was considered a fearless and skillful horsewoman.
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fatigued but pleased with our ramble. After tea we went over to the city. The streets were filled with crowds, sitting on the ground, smoking or gab- bling like a flock of geese. At the Eldorado House the Spanish landlord could speak English and gave us an account of his adventures. Many years ago he and his wife came here (as he said) from a distance of twenty-four hundred miles, most of the way on mules. She also talks English, a little, and wears pants and shirt like a man. Says it is more covenient and saves washing. She seems very kind and pleasant, looks neat and clean and is a superior cook.
Friday, March 1st, 1861. Weather very sultry. Going on shore again today we landed at a beach where the waves rolled high so natives had to carry us from the boat to dry land in their arms. The captain has ordered that all fruit must be thrown overboard and talks of forbidding us the shore on account of the fever. Several passengers are sick but not with fever as yet. Mrs. Q. says she must go ashore, she is so delighted with the country and its inhabitants. They are an ignorant people but happy. While return- ing to the ship today our row boat passed certain rocks which were covered with pelicans. They were quite tame and allowed us to get very near. To see them dive after fish was amusing.
Night before last we were aroused by that sound of civilization, the booming of cannon. The St. Louis arrived with 150 passengers on board, bound for Panama. She left in the morning, and next Wednesday we shall look for the Age.
Saturday, March 2d, 1861. The heat excessive. We are learning Span- ish fast. Tried the shore again today and saw the palm and the bread fruit tree. Every day reveals new curiosities. While walking on the beach we found beautiful shells and coral.
Sunday, March 3d, 1861. Many of the ladies and gentlemen have gone on shore to mass. The bells are ringing a merry peal. Acapulco has two churches, built of stone with bars across the windows instead of glass, which is not used. The floors are stone and the roofs of tile. They are very neat inside and the altar is decorated with flowers. It is said that the ancient city of Acapulco was destroyed by an earthquake about forty years ago, excepting only these churches and the fort. Others contradict the state- ment, but these churches look as though they had been built a century. They are moss grown and owls hoot by night in their belfries.
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