USA > West Virginia > Upshur County > The history of Upshur county, West Virginia, from its earliest exploration and settlement to the present time > Part 44
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BUCKHANNON AND SURROUNDING COUNTRY FORTY YEARS AGO.
BY ONE OF THE MUSES OF THAT PERIOD.
Through the kindness of Dr. and Mrs. G. A. Newlon, who preserved it for years as a precious souvenir, we are able to give our readers a bit of original poetry of that day and time that is well worth keeping.
Who lived here forty years ago? Doubtless some one would like to know, And if my memory'll serve me well, I'll undertake to try to tell; Who walked among us to and fro, Not far from forty years ago.
If I'm correct I do believe. The first we know was John B. Shreve; Adam, and Absolem on the ridge While farther east, lived Edmond Bridge ; And Henry Our down the road, And just between, lived Mr. Wood.
358
MISCELLANEOUS HISTORY.
Then Jacob Heavner east of town, Not far from Mr. Richard Brown; While going east-just to the right, We will remember Isaac White; Abram Hess-John Lewis' son-in-law, Lived very near to Levi Paugh.
Then westward traveling on our round, Was Major Reger, near the town; While Col. Westfall lived near by, And "Nathanial" Farnsworth was nigh, And now lest we should make mistake, We'll speak of John and Abram Brake.
Now, Isaac Cutright, a shining mark, Near Sago, too, was Mr. Clark ; Not far below was Ephriam Furr On French; also, Elbridge Burr ; On Childer's run lived Mr. Harper, And west of him was Adam Carper.
The Hinkles; Job, with all his brothers, Were living then, with many others ; Including all the Posts, you know, With two good brothers, called Mayo; And if you'd been upon the scene, You would have met with Mr. Dean.
The Keslings, too, not far away, And Pifers living at that day ; With Jacksons, Straders, Lorentzs, too; Castos, and Cutrights, not a few. While Mr. Trimble could be found Right in the superbs of the town.
Rollins, and Reases east of here, And up the river Mr. Beer ; Fogg, and Hopkins, too, we knew, And William Rexroad, too! Miller and the Middletons once dwelt by, To tell of all we'll cease to try.
We might have told right at the first, Of our neighbor, too, named Mr. Hurst .; Of Uncle "Alley" just in sight, A little east was William White, The Rohrboughs, too were living then ; "Len" Loudin, with the sons of men.
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MISCELLANEOUS HISTORY.
Then Thomas Chipps and Jacob Waugh, Upon our streets we often saw; And there was Uncle Dave Pinnell, And Doctor Spitler as well, These men were living as we know, Not far from forty years ago.
Others whose names to friens most dear, For whom they've shed the burning tear, We'd like to write of them as well, And of their virtue freely tell ; But memory fails us as you know, For they lived forty years ago.
Now, readers, who will walk these streets, Where you and I so often meet, And greet each other by the way, As we are passing day by day, From church and market to our home- Who'll know us forty years to come?
GOVERNORS OF VIRGINIA.
1776-Patrick Henry.
1779-Thomas Jefferson.
1781-Thomas Nelson.
1781-Benjamin Harrison.
1784-Patrick Henry.
1786-Edmond Randolph.
1788-Beverly Randolph.
1791-Henry Lee.
1794-Robert Brooks.
1796-James Wood.
1799-James Monroe.
1802-John Page.
1805-William H. Cabell.
1808-John Tyler. 18II-James Monroe. 18II-George W. Smith.
1812-James Barbour.
1814-Wilson C. Nicholas.
1816-James P. Preston.
1819-Thomas M. Randolph.
₹822-James Pleasants. 1825-John Tyler.
1827-Wm. B. Giles.
1830-John Floyd.
1834-Littleton W. Tazewell.
1835-Wyndham Robertson, (Lieutenant governor.) 1837-David Campbell.
1840-Thomas W. Gilmer.
1841-John Rutherford. (Lieutenant governor.) 1842-John M. Gregory. (Lieutenant governor.) 1843-James McDowell. 1846-William Smith.
1849-James B. Floyd. .
1852-Joseph Johnson.
1856-Henry A. Wise.
1860-John Letcher.
GOVERNOR OF REORGANIZED GOVERNMENT OF VIRGINIA.
1861-Francis H. Pierpont.
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MISCELLANEOUS HISTORY.
GOVERNORS OF WEST VIRGINIA.
1863-Arthur I. Boreman. 1890-A. B. Fleming.
1868-William E. Stevenson.
1871-John J. Jacobs.
1877-Henry M. Mathews.
1881-John B. Jackson.
1885-E. Willis Wilson.
1893-William A. McCorkle.
1897-Geo. W. Atkinson.
1901-Albert B. White.
1905-W. M. O. Dawson.
A STORY OF PERSONAL STRENGTH.
The settlers, brought together and held by the paramount feeling of mutual protection against savage forays for so many years, and inured to hardships indescribable, were very remarkable in their endurance and strength. The fireside conversations of the early, bold and hardy inhabitants consisted mainly in relating each to the other and to the members of their respective families their trips of bold adventure, successes or failures of hunting expeditions and per- sonal feats of strength and endurance. Numerous were the instances, when a band of hunters would return from the chase with a deer, a piece on their strong backs held in position by either hand grasping either leg of their game. One man, alone, is said to have killed a deer for every day in the month of January of which record he was justly proud and gave him good reasons to boast of his hunting ability. But the most remarkable authentic story of personal strength we have from tradition is this :: Philip Reger, who had done some very valuable scouting work for the settlement, and his companion, Samuel Jackson, on an occasion after the year 1795 went out to Big Skin creek for the twofold purpose of ascertaining the possibility of savage presence and incidentally killing what game might cross their path. Hidden in the thick underbrush on these waters to evade observation, Reger was bitten by a rattle snake which is very venomous; these dangerous serpents were very numerous among the rocks and thickets of this woody country. Soon after the fangs of the poisonous reptile had entered Reger's flesh he became blind and fearing that exertion on his part would cause a dangerous state of heat to his body and facilitate the fatal spreading of the poison, the two scouts were in a dilemma how the snake-bitten man should get back to the fort. Jackson was an exceedingly bold strong man, knowing on limita -. tions of his endurance and power and he proposed to take no chances and carried Reger to the fort. On the back of this strong man, Reger with their two guns, and the snake which had thrown its deadly fangs into him, rode triumphant for eight miles into the fort. Arriving at the fort and pursuing the superstitious remedy known to them for snake bite, the reptile was cut open and applied to the poisonous wound. The remedy failed. Reger says, "I threw it away. It was so cold it seemed painful." Another and better cure of removing poison was adopted. But history can furnish fewer instance of greater strength and endurance than that of Jackson on this occasion.
BEAN'S MILL.
This rare remnant of an almost former civilization, at least of a prior genera- tion, was first constructed out of logs by Jonathan Cutright on the site of the present mill in 1845, and was run by waterpower, carried through a race and tumbled into a bin, containing a tub wheel.
GOV. D. D. T. FARNSWORTH.
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MISCELLANEOUS HISTORY.
The present mill was erected about twenty-five years ago by Henry Bean, the father of the present owner, Charles A. Bean, and grinds wheat on the old- fashioned buhrs still. Its principal trade is grinding corn and buckwheat for which it has a capacity of five tons per day, when in good running condition.
CRITES' MILL.
This mill is located at Selbyville, one-half mile north of the B. and O. station of Newlon. It was first built in 1854, by Mr. Meredith, the site having been given by Leonard Crites, the owner of the land on which it now stands. It was a frame mill, the lumber having been sawed by hand. It did custom work only, grinding corn, wheat and buckwheat, the last two of which, through a home-made swiss cloth, by hand. In 1856, Abram C. Crites bought it and run it practically as he found it until 1883, when it was rebuilt. On account of sick- ness and the death of Mr. Crites it was not finished until 1886. It was then run by his son, Phillip Crites, for several years, but now is not in operation.
LIST OF FREE NEGROES IN THE COUNTY OF UPSHUR FOR THE YEAR 1859.
Cochran, Wilson, male, laborer.
Dean, John, male, chairmaker.
Martin, John. H., male, laborer.
Martin, Richmond, male, laborer.
Martin, Mariah, female, housekeeper.
The above is a list of the free negroes in the county of Upshur who are over twelve years of age.
LIST OF ALL NEGROES OVER TWELVE YEARS OF AGE IN THE COUNTY OF UPSHUR FOR THE YEAR 1860.
Dean, John, male, chairmaker.
Cochran, Wilson, male, laborer.
CHAPTER XXII.
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THE BIRDS OF UPSHUR COUNTY
BY EARLE AMOS BROOKS, A. B.
Upshur county is rich in bird life. Lying, as it does, near the center of the state and having considerable variation in altitude, and a consequent variation in plant and insect life, we may expect to find here nearly all the birds which ever cross the borders of our state. Buckhannon river and its tributaries afford feeding places for many water birds, the elevated portions of the county are favorable to northern species, and the lower cleared and wooded areas are the homes of nearly all the birds which may be expected in this latitude. Our county is near the borderland between the north and the south. Most of it is in the transition life zone. Consequently, we have many southern birds in the summer and frequently stragglers from the north in winter.
Our birds have been neglected. There is, perhaps, no state east of the Mississippi river in which so little ornithological work has been done. Celebrated bird-students have visited a few of our counties, for a brief season, but much of our territory is still unexplored by this class of scientific workers. And, to tell the truth, West Virginia is a rich field for the researches of scientific students of almost all classses.
These remarks concerning the state at large apply equally well to Upshur county. Mr. Wm. D. Doan, who was, a few years ago, ornithologist at the West Virginia Experiment Station, while hurriedly compiling a list of the birds of our state, spent several days in Buckhannon. In his list he mentions a few species that have been taken near that town. Aside from this, it seems that nothing has ever been published on the birds of Upshur county.
The writer has studied the birds of this county, at odd times, for the past ten or fifteen years, and has found much pleasure in pioneering in the region with such an interesting avifauna. Nearly all the observations, upon which the following list is founded, were made on a farm near French Creek-a small village in the west central portion of the county. As might be expected, and as may be seen by a glance at the list, the land birds only have received much attention. It has been inconvenient for the writer to work up the water birds of the county. If it were possible, at present, to make a thorough study of our birds at all seasons of the year and in every section of the county, the list could, in all probability, be increased so as to number two hundred species.
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THE BIRDS OF UPSHUR COUNTY.
This list is merely provisional. However, it will serve as a basis for future investigations, and may lead some one to take an increased interest in this sub- ject. No one must understand that this list is intended to be a complete one. It is far from it. Only those birds which have been observed by the writer and those which have been reported to him by perfectly reliable persons are admitted to the list.
Special attention has been given to migration in the brief consideration of the various species. As is well known by many readers, a great majority of our birds pass southward in the fall to some warmer region where they spend the winter. In the spring, a flight is made in the opposite direction. To do this, long journeys must be made. To those who have not studied birds, it will seem strange that these flights of thousands of miles are made in the night. Only a few of our species migrate in the day time. If any one will go to some high hill, at any time in the night, during the spring or fall, he may hear the faint chirps of the myriad hosts of birds as they pass over on their long, dark journey. The migration of birds is a wonderful phenomenon. Scarcely any thing in all nature is so interesting.
"Quam multa in silvis autumni frigore primo Lapsa cadunt folia, aut ad terram gurgite ab alto Quam multae glomerantur aves, ubi frigidus annus Trans pontum fugat et terris inmittit apricis." -Vergil's Descent into Hell.
On the 27th day of April, I can go to the woods or even step from the road- side into some neighboring orchard and see hundreds of birds, joyous in song and gorgeous in plumage, which have just returned from their winter homes in the southern states, Mexico, Central America, or even South America. Small pilgrims of the night which have braved all sorts of perils by sea and land ! Rare visitors from the islands of the ocean! Again in the fall, I go into the woods and see the birds returning with their young. They have put on a more somber hue and sing less. Yet, when I see the Black-throated Blue Warbler, which has just come from his home among the coniferous forests of our northern states and Canada, I experience scarcely less pleasure than when the birds returned in the spring. Bird migration can be studied anywhere, and whoever takes up this study will find in it a scource of endless pleasure and an inspiration akin to that which came to Bryant when he wrote his famous lines "To a Waterfowl."
It is specially desirable that the agricultural classes of our county should learn something of the birds which are so common. In view of the enormous amount of insects which are consumed daily by the birds, we must conclude that they play a great part in the economy of nature. They must either do much good or much evil.
It is most earnestly desired that these introductory remarks and the brief notes on our birds may lead some of our farmers or farmer's boys to become students of birds and other forms of life. It has been said that the farmer is the best naturalist in the world. Whether this is true or not, it is very certain that he might be such.
A few weeks of careful study is all that is necessary to convince any one of the interest, and use, and the importance of the birds of this county. Stimulated
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THE BIRDS OF UPSHUR COUNTY.
by this first work on the birds of Upshur county, let someone take it up and carry it on to perfection.
French Creek, Upshur County, W. Va. August 21, 1897.
PROVISIONAL LIST OF UPSHUR COUNTY BIRDS.
ARRANGED ACCORDING TO THE AMERICAN ORNITHOLOGISTS' UNION CHECK-LIST OF NORTH AMERICAN BIRDS.
(NOTE .- For description of species that are barely mentioned in this list, readers are referred to Ridgway's Manuel of N. A. Birds or to Key to N. A. Birds, by Dr. Coues.)
I-PIED-BILLED GREBE. Podilymbus podiceps.
This bird is commonly called the Diedipper or Dabchick. It has been seen occasionally on French creek and is not uncommon along the Buckhannon river. Like all divers, lives principally on fish and other water animals. Upper parts, brownish-black ; under parts, ashy.
2-LOON.
Urinator imber.
The Loon, or Great Northern Diver, is found in this county during cold weather only. It breeds in the north and spends the winter in various parts of the United States. This great bird is so generally known that no description need be given.
3-MALLARD. Anas boschas.
This is our most common duck. It may be seen along any of our larger streams and may be known by its close resemblance to some of our domestic ducks.
4-CANADA GOOSE. .
Branta canadensis.
The common wild goose passes us twice each year on its semi-annual migra- tion flight. In the spring, flocks may be seen passing north at any time from February 15 to the last of March. In the fall they may be observed from the 20th of October to the 15th of December as they pass to the south. This bird breeds in Canada and the northern part of the United States.
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THE BIRDS OF UPSHUR COUNTY.
5-GREAT BLUE HERON.
Ardea herodias.
Very frequently these birds are called cranes. The writer has never seen a true crane in this county. These large herons may be observed occasionally along any of our water courses. A fine young bird of this species was taken in a fish pond by Mr. A. B. Brooks in August 1897, and is now in my possession
6-GREEN HERON.
Ardea virescens.
A common bird along all our streams, where it feeds on fish, frogs, and other forms of aquatic life. It can be easily recognized by its long neck and legs. Blue and chestnut-brown are the prevailing colors-the green being of a bluish cast.
7-BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT HERON. Nycticorax nycticorax naevius.
This large bird may be heard, once in a while, in the night, as it migrates. While flying, it utters a peculiar guttural note.
8-SORA.
Porzana carolina.
This species passes in autumn and spring and is rare even then. I have seen only one specimen. That was observed a number of years ago in a large corn field on the waters of Big Bush run.
9-AMERICAN WOODCOCK.
Philohela minor.
The Woodcock, or "snipe," is abundant in marshy places and along water courses. Its long bill and the peculiar position of its eyes give it a strange appearance. It is sometimes used for food.
IO-SPOTTED SANDPIPER. Actitis macularia.
Clear, cool streams are the special resort of this beautiful little bird. As its name implies, it has a spotted breast and this, with its continuous "teetering" motion, will generally serve for identification.
366
THE BIRDS OF UPSHUR COUNTY.
II-KILLDEER.
AEgialitis vocifera.
In the meadows and upland pastures, near Buckhannon, this species is found more abundantly than in the higher portions of the county. Its song, which is heard frequently at night, can be easily recognized.
12-BOB-WHITE.
Colinus virginianus.
The abundance of this species varies greatly according to the mildness or severity of the winter. During this season-1897-it seems more common than for years before. This bird remains throughout the year and is of great importance to farmers because it is most excellent as a game bird and, on the other hand, it feeds, to some extent, on the smaller grains, and is sometimes injurious. In this county it has never become sufficiently common to be destructive to grain, and the law protecting it should be most rigidly enforced.
13-RUFFED GROUSE. Bonasa umbellus.
This species is generally called "Pheasant." In Pennsylvania and the northern states it is called "Partridge." It is a true grouse, and might as well be called by its name in order to avoid confusion. This game bird is too well known to need any description.
14-WILD TURKEY.
Meleagris gallopavo.
A few Wild Turkeys may still be found in the southern, or upper, end of our county along the Randolph and Webster lines. A flock of three or four was seen on Little Bush run, a tributary of French creek, in the winter of 1892-3. The common domestic turkey is decended from a Mexican specie and not from the species found in this section.
15-PASSENGER PIGEON.
Ectopistes migratoria.
This wonderful bird, so common in past years, is rapidly approaching extinction. During seasons when acorns, chestnuts, and beechnuts are very abundant, small flocks may be seen. The writer observed a small flock about five years ago on the head waters of French creek. A flock of about thirty was seen in March, 1897, by Mr. Cecil L. Coburn near French creek. Indiscriminate slaughter has been a most effective cause in limiting the number of these game birds. By the ignorance and wantonness of man, many valuable species of birds
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THE BIRDS OF UPSHUR COUNTY.
and mammals have been entirely destroyed and are known to us only by their bones. The pigeon will soon share this fate. All laws which protect animals in any way whatsoever should be enforced, and we should use some judgment, at least, in our "dominion over the creatures."
16-MOURNING DOVÉ.
Zenaidura macroura.
A bird that is found over nearly all the world, as few of our species are. Very common. Often called "Turtle Dove."
17-TURKEY VULTURE.
Cathartes aura.
A most beneficial scavenger which is commonly called "Turkey Buzzard." Remains here throughout the year, and is always present when its services are needed.
18-MARSH HAWK.
Circus hudson icus.
The Marsh Hawk is one of our rarer species and is seldom noticed away from large streams. It may be easily recognized by its conspicious white upper tail coverts.
19-SHARP-SHINNED HAWK. Accipiter velox.
It is difficult to write of the hawks, with any degree of fairness, because of the universal prejudice which exists against them. The fact that some of our hawks are very beneficial is not believed by the average farmer, and he never hesitates in killing them. Some hawks are pests, others are not so. From a long series of investigations based upon the actural examination of many hundreds of stomachs from hawks of all kinds, the Division of Ornithology-now Biological Survey-at Washington, has determined the status of all our species of hawks, eagles, and owls. The result is surprising. Nearly all the hawks are beneficial, some are not positively beneficial, and only three are really injurious. The Sharp-shinned Hawk and the two following species are the harmful ones. While these destroy many animals that are injurious to the farmer, the chickens and birds of many kinds which they destroy throw the balance against them. This species is one of our smallest hawks and is quite common.
20-COOPER'S HAWK.
Accipiter cooperi.
Resident throughout the year; tolerably common. Larger than the last- named species. This hawk is probably the worst enemy to our poultry.
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THE BIRDS OF UPSHUR COUNTY.
21-AMERICAN GOSHAWK.
Accipiter atricapillus.
The Goshawk is a large northern bird which visits us only in winter.
22-RED-TAILED HAWK. Buteo borealis.
The Red-tailed Hawk is very large and may be known by its brownish-red tail. The female is not so marked. The food of this species consists of small quadrupeds-squirrels, mice, etc., and occasionally, chickens and turkeys.
23-RED-SHOULDERED HAWK. Buteo lineatus.
Another large hawk but not so common as the last species.
24-BROAD-WINGED HAWK. Butco latissimus.
This buzzard is smaller than the last-named species. It remains here throughout the year.
25-GOLDEN EAGLE. Aquila chrysaetos.
Several specimens of the Golden Eagle have been seen in Upshur county. It is always rare. While young this bird is sometimes called the "Gray Eagle." The legs are covered with feathers as are the toes to the very tips. This character will always serve to distinguish the Golden from the Bald Eagle.
26-BALD EAGLE.
Haliacctus leucocephalus.
The Bald Eagle is so called because of the white feathers which cover the head and neck of the adult bird. The writer has seen a number of these birds near French Creek as they were wandering over the country in search of food, or during their local migrations. This species is the emblem of our country. It probably breeds in the mountainons districts of our state. I have been informed that Mr. A. D. Page took a fine bird of this species near his home on Mulberry Ridge a year or two ago.
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THE BIRDS OF UPSHUR COUNTY.
27-AMERICAN SPARROW HAWK.
Falco sparverius.
This is the smallest of all our hawks, and is frequently found breeding in old trees. It is a very beautiful bird, both in color and form. The food of the Sparrow Hawk consists, for the most part, of mice, grasshoppers, crickets, beetles, and small birds.
28-BARRED OWL. Syrnium nebulosum.
I saw one specimen, a number of years ago, that was killed in midwinter. It is probably common, but as all of our owls are nocturnal in habit, they are not often seen. This is a beneficial species as its food consists mainly of mice.
29-SCREECH OWL. Megascops asio.
A small, familiar owl that frequents our orchards and woodlands. Screech Owls-both red and gray phase-are common everywhere. They are too small to attack poultry.
30-GREAT HORNED OWL. Bubo virginianus.
Our largest owl. It remains throughout the year, and is sometimes destructive to poultry. Inclined to remain in heavy woodland.
3I-SNOWY OWL. Nyctea nyctea.
A number of years ago a Snowy Owl was seen by Mr. A. E. Heck on the waters of Little Bush run. This owl may be expected in severe winters only, since it is a northern bird and comes this far south only in very cold weather. It is nearly white, marked on the head, neck, back, and wings with brownish- black.
32-YELLOW-BILLED CUCKOO.
Coccyzus americanus.
There are two species of cuckoos in this part of the United States, and both occur in this county. They are often called "Rain Crows." The two species are scarcely to be distinguished by a casual observer. In both species the upper part of the bill is black, but in the yellow-billed species, the under part of the beak is yellow, while in the other it is black. Both are very beneficial birds, as they feed largely on caterpillars which are injurious to fruit trees.
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THE BIRDS OF UPSHUR COUNTY.
33-BLACK-BILLED CUCKOO.
Coccyzus erythrophthalmus.
A common bird in orchards and in the woods. It comes during the first week of May and remains till the last of September or the first of October.
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