USA > Alaska > Alaska, the great country > Part 14
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From this hour Baranoff failed rapidly from day to day. His time was spent in bidding farewell to the Russians and natives- to many of whom he was sin- cerely attached -and to places which had become en- deared to him by long association. He was frequently found in tears. Those who have seen fair Sitka rising out of the blue and islanded sea before their raptured eyes may be able to appreciate and sympathize with the old governor's emotion as, on the 27th of No- vember, 1818, he stood in the stern of the Kutusof and watched the beloved city of his creation fade lingeringly from his view. He was weeping, silently and hopelessly, as the old weep, when, at last, he turned away.
Baranoff never again saw Sitka. In March the Kutusof landed at Batavia, where it remained more than a nionth. There he was very ill; and soon after the vessel had again put to sea, he died, like Behring, a sad and lonely death, far from friends and home. On the 16th of April, 1819, the waters of the Indian Ocean received the body of Alexander Baranoff.
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Notwithstanding his many and serious faults, or, pos- sibly because of their existence in so powerful a charac- ter - combined as they were with such brilliant talent and with so many admirable and conscientious qualities - Baranoff remains through all the years the most fasci- nating figure in the history of the Pacific Coast. None is so well worth study and close investigation ; none is so rich in surprises and delights; none has the charm of so lone and beautiful a setting. There was no littleness, no niggardliness, in his nature. " He never knew what ava- rice was," wrote Khlebnikof, " and never hoarded riches. He did not wait until his death to make provision for the living, but gave freely to all who had any claim upon him."
He spent money like a prince. He received ten shares of stock in the company from Shelikoff and was later granted twenty more ; but he gave many of these to his associates who were not so well remunerated for their faithful services. He provided generously during his life for his family; and for the families in Russia of many who lost their lives in the colonies, or who were unable through other misfortunes to perform their duties in this respect.
Born of humble parentage in Kargopal, Eastern Russia, in 1747, he had, at an early age, drifted to Moscow, where he was engaged as a clerk in retail stores until 1771, when he established himself in business.
Not meeting with success, he four years later emigrated to Siberia and undertook the management of a glass fac- tory at Irkutsk. He also interested himself in other industries ; and on account of several valuable communi- cations to the Civil Economical Society on the subject of manufacture he was in 1789 elected a member of the society.
His life here was a humdrum existence, of which his
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Copyright by Dobbs, Nome
A NORTHERN MADONNA
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restless spirit soon wearied. Acquainting himself with the needs, resources, and possibilities of Kamchatka, he set out to the eastward with an assortment of goods and liquors, which he sold to the savages of that and adjoining countries.
At first his operations were attended by success ; but when, in 1789, two of his caravans were captured by Chuckchi, he found himself bankrupt, and soon yielded to Shelikoff's urgent entreaties to try his fortunes in America.
Such is the simple early history of this remarkable man. Not one known descendant of his is living to-day. But men like Baranoff do not need descendants to perpetuate their names.
Bancroft is the highest authority on the events of this period, his assistant being Ivan Petroff, a Russian, who was well-informed on the history of the colonies.
Many secret reasons have been suspected for the sale of the magnificent country of Alaska to the United States for so paltry a sum.
The only revenue, however, that Russia derived from the colonies was through the rich fur trade; and when, after Baranoff's death, this trade declined and its future seemed hopeless, the country's vast mineral wealth being unsuspected, Russia found herself in humor to consider. any offer that might be of immediate profit to herself. For seven millions and two hundred thousands of dollars Russia cheerfully, because unsuspectingly, yielded one of the most marvellously rich and beautiful countries of the world - its valleys yellow with gold, its mountains green with copper and thickly veined with coal, its waters alive with fish and fur-bearing animals, its scenery sublime - to the scornful and unappreciative United States.
As early as the fifties it became rumored that Russia,
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forcseeing the entire decline of the fur trade, considered Alaska a white elephant upon its hands, and that an offer for its purchase would not meet with disfavor. The matter was discussed in Washington at various times, but it was not until 1866 that it was seriously considered. The people of the present state of Washington were among those most desirous of its purchase; and there was rumor of the organization of a trading company of the Pacific Coast for the purpose of purchasing the rights of the Russian-American Company and acquiring the lease of the lisière which was to expire in 1868. The Russian-American Company was then, however, awaiting the reply of the Hudson Bay Company concerning a renewal of the lease; and the matter drifted on until, in the spring of 1867, the Russian minister opened negotia- tions for the purchase of the country with Mr. Seward. There was some difficulty at first over the price, but the matter was one presenting so many mutual advantages that this was soon satisfactorily arranged.
On Friday evening, March 25, 1867, Mr. Seward was playing whist with members of his family when the Russian minister was announced. Baron Stoeckl stated that he had received a despatch from his govern- ment by cable, conveying the consent of the Emperor to the cession.
" To-morrow," he added, "I will come to the depart- ment, and we can enter upon the treaty."
With a smile of satisfaction, Seward replied :-
" Why wait till to-morrow? Let us make the treaty to-night."
" But your department is closed. You have no clerks, and my secretaries are scattered about the towll."
" Never mind that," said Seward; " if you can muster your legation together before midnight, you will find me awaiting you at the department."
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By four o'clock on the following morning the treaty was engrossed, sealed, and ready for transmission by the Presi- dent to the Senate. The end of the session was approach- ing, and there was need of haste in order to secure action upon it.
Leutze painted this historic scene. Mr. Seward is seen sitting at his table, pen in hand, listening to the Russian minister. The gaslight, streaming down on the table, illuminates the outline of " the great country."
When, immediately afterward, the treaty was presented for consideration in the Senate, Charles Sumner delivered his famous and splendid oration which stands as one of the masterpieces of history, and which revealed an en- lightened knowledge and understanding of Alaska that were remarkable at that time - and which probably sur- passed those of Seward. Among other clear and beauti- ful things he said : -
" The present treaty is a visible step in the occupation of the whole North American Continent. As such it will be recognized by the world and accepted by the American people. But the treaty involves something more. By it we dismiss one more monarch from this continent. One by one they have retired ; first France, then Spain, then France again, and now Russia - all giving way to that absorbing unity which is declared in the national motto : E pluribus unum."
There is yet one more monarch to be retired, in all kindness and good-will, from our continent ; and that event will take place when our brother-Canadians unite with us in deed as they already have in spirit.
For years the purchase was unpopular, and was ridi- culed by the press and in conversation. Alaska was de- clared to be a " barren, worthless, God-forsaken region," whose only products were "icebergs and polar bears"; vegetation was " confined to mosses " ; and " Walrussia "
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was wittily suggested as an appropriate name for our new possession - as well as "Icebergia "; but in the face of all the opposition and ridicule, those two great Ameri- cans, Seward and Sumner, stood firmly for the acquisition of this splendid country. They looked through the mist of their own day and saw the day that is ours.
CHAPTER XVII
SINCE Sitka first dawned upon my sight on a June day, in her setting of vivid green and glistening white, she has been one of my dearest memories. Four times in all have the green islands drifted apart to let her rise from the blue sea before my enchanted eyes ; and with each visit she has grown more dear, and her memory more tormenting.
Something gives Sitka a different look and atmosphere from any other town. It may be her whiteness, glisten- ing against the rich green background of forest and hill, with the whiteness of the mountains shining in the higher lights ; or it may be the severely white and plain Greek church, rising in the centre of the main street, not more than a block from the water, that gives Sitka her chaste and immaculate appearance.
No buildings obstruct the view of the church from the water. There it is, in the form of a Greek cross, with its green roof, steeple, and bulbous dome.
This church is generally supposed to be the one that Baranoff built at the beginning of the century ; but this is not true. Baranoff did build a small chapel, but it was in 1848 that the foundation of the present church was laid - almost thirty years after the death of Baranoff. It was under the special protection of the Czar, who, with other members of the imperial family, sent many costly furnishings and ornaments.
Veniaminoff - who was later made Archpriest, and still
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later the Archbishop of Kamchatka, and during the last years of his noble life, the Metropolitan of Moscow - sent many of the rich vestments, paintings, and furnish- ings. The chime of silvery bells was also sent from Moscow.
Upon landing at Sitka, one is confronted by the old log storehouse of the Russians. This is an immense building, barricading the wharf from the town. A nar- row, dark, gloomy passage-way, or alley, leads through the centre of this building. It seems as long as an ordi- nary city square to the bewildered stranger groping through its shadows.
In front of this building, and inside both ends of the passage as far as the light reaches, squat squaws, young and old, pretty and hideous, starry-eyed and no-eyed, saucy and kind, arrogant and humble, taciturn and voluble, vivacious and weary-faced. Surely no known variety of squaw may be asked for and not found in this long line that reaches from the wharf to the green-roofed church.
There is no night so wild and tempestuous, and no hour of any night so late, or of any morning so early, that the passenger hastening ashore is not greeted by this long line of dark-faced women. They sit like so many patient, noiseless statues, with their tempting wares clus- tered around the flat, "toed-in " feet of each.
Not only is this true of Sitka, but of every landing- place on the whole coast where dwells an Indian or an Aleut that has something to sell. Long before the boat lands, their gay shawls by day, or their dusky outlines by night, are discovered from the deck of the steamer.
How they manage it, no ship's officer can tell ; for the whistle is frequently not blown until the boat is within a few yards of the shore. Yet there they are, waiting !
Sometimes, at night, they appear simultaneously, flut-
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tering down into their places, swiftly and noiselessly, like a flock of birds settling down to rest for a moment in their flight.
Some of these women are dressed in skirts and waists, but the majority are wrapped in the everlasting gay blankets. No lip or nose ornaments are seen, even in the most aged. Two or three men are scattered down the line, to guard the women from being cheated.
These tall and lordly creatures strut noiselessly and superciliously about, clucking out guttural advice to the squaws, as well as, to all appearances, the frankest criti- cism of the persons examining their wares with a view to purchasing.
The women are very droll, and apparently have a keen sense of humor ; and one is sure to have considerable fun poked at one, going down the line.
Mild-tempered people do not take umbrage at this ridi- cule ; in fact, they rather enjoy it. Being one of them, I lost my temper only once. A young squaw offered me a wooden dish, explaining in broken English that it was an old eating dish.
It had a flat handle with a hole in it; and as cooking and eating utensils are never washed, it had the horrors of ages encrusted within it to the depth of an inch or more.
This, of course, only added to its value. I paid her a dollar for it, and had just taken it up gingerly and shud- deringly with the tips of my fingers, when, to my amaze- ment and confusion, the girl who had sold it to me, two older women who were squatting near, and a tall man leaning against the wall, all burst simultaneously into jeering and uncontrollable laughter.
As I gazed at them suspiciously and with reddening face, the young woman pointed a brown and unclean finger at me ; while, as for the chorus of chuckles and
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cluckings that assailed my ears - I hope I may never hear their like again.
To add to my embarrassment, some passengers at that moment approached.
" Hello, Sally," said one ; "what's the matter ? "
Laughing too heartily to reply, she pointed at the wooden dish, which I was vainly trying to hide. They all looked, saw, and laughed with the Indians.
For a week afterward they smiled every time they looked at me; and I do believe that every man, woman, and child on the steamer came, smiling, to my cabin to see my " buy." But the ridicule of my kind was as nothing com- pared to that of the Indians themselves. To be "taken in " by the descendant of a Koloshian, and then jeered at to one's very face !
The only possession of an Alaskan Indian that may not be purchased is a rosary. An attempt to buy one is met with glances of aversion.
"It has been blessed!" one woman said, almost in a whisper.
But they have most beautiful long strings of big, evenly cut, sapphire-blue beads. They call them Russian beads, and point out certain ones which were once used as money among the Indians.
Their wares consist chiefly of baskets; but there are also immense spoons carved artistically out of the horns of mountain sheep; richly beaded moccasins of many different materials; carved and gayly painted canoes and paddles of the fragrant Alaska cedar or Sitka pine; totem-poles carved out of dark gray slate stone ; lamps, carved out of wood and inlaid with a fine pearl-like shell. These are formed like animals, with the backs hollowed to hold oil. There are silver spoons, rings, bracelets, and chains, all delicately traced with totemic designs; knives, virgin charms, Chilkaht blankets, and now and then a
Copyright by Dobbs, Nome ESKIMO LAD IN PARKA AND MUKLUKS
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genuine old spear, or bow and arrow, that proves the dearest treasure of all.
Old wooden, or bone, gambling sticks, finely carved, polished to a satin finish, and sometimes inlaid with frag- ments of shell, or burnt with totemic designs, are also greatly to be desired.
The main features of interest in Sitka are the Greek- Russian church and the walk along the beach to Indian River Park.
A small admission fee is charged at the church door. This goes to the poor-fund of the parish. It is the only church in Alaska that charges a regular fee, but in all the others there are contribution boxes. When one has, with burning cheeks, seen his fellow-Americans drop dimes and nickels into the boxes of these churches, which have been specially opened at much inconvenience for their accommodation, he is glad to see the fifty-cent fee at the door charged.
There are no seats in the church. The congregation stands or kneels during the entire service. There are three sanctuaries and as many altars. The chief sanctuary is the one in the middle, and it is dedicated to the Archi- Strategos Michael.
The sanctuary is separated from the body of the church by a screen - which has a " shaky " look, by the way - adorned with twelve ikons, or images, in costly silver and gold casings, artistically chased.
The middle door leading into the sanctuary is called the Royal Gates, because through it the Holy Sacrament, or Eucharist, is carried out to the faithful. It is most beautifully carved and decorated. Above it is a magnifi- cent ikon, representing the Last Supper. The heavy silver casing is of great value. The casings alone of the twelve ikons on the screen cost many thousands of dollars.
An interesting story is attached to the one of the patron
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saint of the church, the Archangel Michael. The ship Neva, on her way to Sitka, was wrecked at the base of Mount Edgecumbe. A large and valuable cargo was lost, but the ikon was miraculously cast upon the beach, uninjured.
Many of the ikons and other adornments of the church were presented by the survivors of wrecked vessels; others by illustrious friends in Russia. One that had paled and grown dim was restored by Mrs. Emmons, the wife of Lieutenant Emmons, whose work in Alaska was of great value.
When the Royal Gates are opened the entire sanctuary -or Holy of Holies, in which no woman is permitted to set foot, lest it be defiled - may be seen.
To one who does not understand the significance of the various objects, the sanctuary proves a disappointment until the splendid old vestments of cloth of gold and silver are brought out. These were the personal gifts of the great Baranoff. They are exceedingly rich and sumptuous, as is the bishop's stole, made of cloth woven of heavy silver threads.
The left-hand chapel is consecrated to "Our Lady of Kazan." It is adorned with several ikons, one of which, "The Mother of God, " is at once the most beautiful and the most valuable object in the church. An offer of fifteen thousand dollars was refused for it. The large dark eyes of the madonna are so filled with sorrowful tenderness and passion that they cannot be forgotten. They follow one about the chapel; and after he has gone out into the fresh air and the sunlight he still feels them upon him. Those mournful eyes hold a message that haunts the one who has once tried to read it. The appeal which the unknown Russian artist has painted into them produces an effect that is enduring.
But most precious of all to me were those objects, of
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whatsoever value, which were presented by Innocentius, the Metropolitan of Moscow, the Noble and the Devoted. If ever a man went forth in search of the Holy Grail, it was he; and if ever a man came near finding the Holy Grail, it was, likewise, he.
From Sitka to Unalaska, and up the Yukon so far as the Russian influence goes, his name is still murmured with a veneration that is almost adoration.
Historians know him and praise him, without a dissent- ing voice, as Father Veniaminoff ; for it was under this simple and unassuming title that the pure, earnest, and devout young Russian came to the colonies in 1823, carry- ing the high, white light of his faith to the wretched natives, among whom his life work was to be, from that time on, almost to the end.
No man has ever done as much for the natives of Alaska as he, not even Mr. Duncan. His heart being all love and his nature all tenderness, he grew to love the gentle Aleutians and Sitkans, and so won their love and trust in return.
In the Sitka church is a very costly and splendid vessel, used for the Eucharist, which was once stolen, but afterward returned. There are censers of pure silver and chaste design, which tinkle musically as they swing.
A visit to the building of the Russian Orthodox Mission is also interesting. There will be found some of the personal belongings of Father Veniaminoff - his clock, a writing-desk which was made by his own hands, of massive and enduring workmanship, and several articles of furniture; also the ikon which once adorned his cell - a gift of Princess Potemkin.
Sir George Simpson describes an Easter festival at Sitka in 1842. He found all the people decked in festal attire upon his arrival at nine o'clock in the morning. They were also, men and women, quite "tipsy."
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Upon arriving at Governor Etholin's residence, he was ushered into the great banqueting room, where a large party was rising from breakfast. This party was com- posed of the bishop and priests, the Lutheran clergyman, the naval officers, the secretaries, business men, and masters and mates of vessels, -numbering in all about seventy, - all arrayed in uniforms or, at the least, in ele- gant dress.
From morning till night Sir George was compelled to "run a gantlet of kisses." When two persons met, one said, "Christ is risen "-and this was a signal for prolonged kissing. "Some of them," adds Sir George, naïvely, "were certainly pleasant enough ; but many, even when the performers were of the fair sex, were perhaps too highly flavored for perfect comfort."
He was likewise compelled to accept many hard-boiled, gilded eggs, as souvenirs.
During the whole week every bell in the chimes of the church rang incessantly - from morning to night, from night to morning; and poor Sir George found the jan- gling of "these confounded bells " harder to endure than the eggs or the kisses.
Sir George extolled the virtues of the bishop - Veni- aminoff. His appearance impressed the Governor-in-Chief with awe; his talents and attainments seemed worthy of his already exalted station ; while the gentleness which characterized his every word and deed insensibly moulded reverence into love.
Whymper visited Sitka in 1865, and found Russian hospitality under the administration of Matsukoff almost as lavish as during Baranoff's famous reign.
" Russian hospitality is proverbial," remarks Whymper, " and we all somewhat suffered therefrom. The first phrase of their language acquired by us was 'petnatchit copla' - fifteen drops." This innocently sounding phrase
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Copyright by E. A. Ilegg, Juneau
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SCALES AND SEMMIT OF CHILKOOT PASS IN 1898
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really meant a good half-tumbler of some undiluted liquor, ranging from cognac to raw vodhka, which was pressed upon the visitors upon every available occasion. A refusal to drink meant an insult to their host; and they were often sorely put to it to carry gracefully the burden of entertainment which they dared not decline.
The big brass samovar was in every household, and they were compelled to drink strong Russian tea, served by the tumblerful. Balls, banquets, and fêtes in the gardens of the social clubs were given in their honor ; while their fleet of four vessels in the harbor was daily visited by large numbers of Russian ladies and gentlemen from the town.
At all seasons of the year the tables of the higher classes were supplied with game, chickens, pork, vege- tables, berries, and every luxury obtainable ; while the food of the common laborers was, in summer, fresh fish, and in winter, salt fish.
Sir George Simpson attended a Koloshian funeral at Sitka, or New Archangel, in 1842. The body of the deceased, arrayed in the gayest of apparel, lay in state for two or three days, during which time the relatives fasted and bewailed their loss. At the end of this period, the body was placed on a funeral pyre, round which the relatives gathered, their faces painted black and their hair covered with eagles' down. The pipe was passed around several times ; and then, in obedience to a secret sign, the fire was kindled in several places at once. Wailings and loud lamentations, accompanied by ceaseless drumming, continued until the pyre was entirely consumed. The ashes were, at last, collected into an ornamental box, which was elevated on a scaffold. Many of these monuments were seen on the side of a neighboring hill.
A wedding witnessed at about the same time was quite
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as interesting as the funeral, presenting several unique features. A good-looking Creole girl, named Archi- manditoffra, married the mate of a vessel lying in port.
Attended by their friends and the more important residents of Sitka, the couple proceeded at six o'clock in the evening to the church, where a tiresome service, lasting an hour and a half, was solemnized by a priest.
The bridegroom then led his bride to the ballroomn. : The most startling feature of this wedding was of Russian, rather than savage, origin. The person compelled to bear all the expense of the wedding was chosen to give the bride away ; and no man upon whom this honor was conferred ever declined it.
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