History of Alameda County, California : including its geology, topography, soil, and productions, Part 12

Author: Munro-Fraser, J. P
Publication date: 1883
Publisher: Oakland, Calif. : M.W. Wood
Number of Pages: 1206

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EARLY HISTORY AND SETTLEMENT.

rulers. He was doubtless the son of Rotscheff and his beautiful spouse, the Princess de Gargarin, in whose honor Mount St. Helena was named. The beauty of this lady excited so ardent a passion in the breast of Solano, chief of the Indian tribe of that name, that he formed a plan to capture, by force or strategy, the object of his strange love, and he might have succeeded had his design not been frustrated by General Vallejo.

We have thus set forth all the facts concerning the Russian occupancy, and their habits, manners, buildings, occupations, etc .; we will now trace the causes which led to their departure from the genial shores of California.

It has been stated that the promulgation of the Monroe Doctrine caused them to leave; but that is hardly the fact, for they remained seventeen years after this policy was announced to the countries of Europe; it is, however, probably true that European nations had something to do with it, for both France and England had an eye upon this territory, and both hoped some day to possess it. As long as the Russians main- tained a colony here, they had a prior claim to the territory; hence they must be got rid of. The Russians also recognized the fact that the Americans were beginning to come into the country in considerable numbers, and that it was inevitable that they should overrun and possess it. The subsequent train of events proved that their surmises were correct; one thing, however, is evident, and that is, that they did not depart at the request or behest of either the Spanish or Mexican Governments. It is almost certain that the Russians contemplated a permanent settlement at this point when they located here, as this section would provide them with wheat, an article much needed for the supply of their stations in the far north. Of course, as soon as the Spanish authorities came to know of their permanent location, word was sent of the fact to Madrid. In due course of time reply came from the seat of Government ordering the Muscovite intruders to depart, but to this peremptory order, their only answer was that the matter had been referred to St. Petersburg.

We have shown above that an interview had taken place between Koskoff and the Spanish authorities on board the Rurick, when anchored in the Bay of San Francisco, to consult on the complaints of the latter, but that nothing came of it. The com- mandants under the Mexican règime, in later years, organized several military expe- ditions for the purpose of marching against the intruders, but none in that direction was ever made. For more than a quarter of a century they continued to hold undis- turbed possession of the disputed territory, prosecuted their farming, stock-raising, hunting, trapping, and ship-building enterprises; and, whatever may have been the causes which led to it, there finally came a time when the Russian authorities had decided to withdraw the California colony. The proposition was made first by them to the Government authorities at Monterey, to dispose of their interests at Bodega and Fort Ross, including their title to the land, but, as the authorities had never recog- nized their right or title, and did not wish to do so at that late date, they refused the purchase. Application was next made to Gen. M. G. Vallejo, but on the same grounds he refused to buy. They then applied to Capt. John A. Sutter, a gentle- man at that time residing near where Sacramento City now stands, and who had made a journey from Sitka some years before in one of their vessels. They persuaded Sutter into the belief that their title was good, and could be maintained; so, after

HISTORY OF ALAMEDA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.

making out a full invoice of the articles they had for disposal, including all the land lying between Point Reyes and Point Mendocino, and one league inland, as well as cattle, farming and mechanical implements, also, a schooner of one hundred and eighty tons burthen, some arms, a four pound brass field-piece, etc., a price was decided upon, the sum being thirty thousand dollars, which, however, was not paid at one time, but in cash installments of a few thousand dollars, the last payment being made through ex-Governor Burnett, in 1849. All the stipulations of the sale having been arranged satisfactorily to both parties, the transfer was duly made, and Sutter became, as he had every right to expect, the greatest land-holder in California-the grants given by the Mexican Government seemed mere bagatelles when compared to his princely domain-but, alas for human hopes and aspirations, in reality he had paid an enormous price for a very paltry compensation of personal and chattel property ! It is apropos here to remark that in 1859, Sutter disposed of his Russian claim, which was a six-eighths interest in the lands mentioned above, to William Muldrew, George R. Moore, and Daniel W. Welty, but they only succeeded in getting six thousand dollars out of one settler, and, the remainder refusing to pay, the claim was dropped. Some of the settlers were inclined to consider the Muldrew claim, as it is called, a blackmailing affair, and to censure General Sutter for disposing of it to them, charg- ing that he sanctioned the pilfering process, and was to share in its profits, but we will say in justice to the memory of that large-hearted pioneer, that so far as he was concerned, there was no idea of extortion on his part. He supposed that he had purchased a bona fide claim and title to the land in question of the Russians, and always considered the grants given by the Mexican Government as bogus, hence, on giving the quit-claim deed to Muldrew et al. he sincerely thought that he was deeding that to which he alone had any just or legal claim.

Orders were sent to the settlers at Fort Ross to repair at once to San Francisco Bay, and ships were dispatched to bring them there, where whaling vessels bound for the northern fishing grounds had been chartered to convey them to Sitka. These craft arrived at an early hour in the day, and on the orders being shown to Rotscheff, the commander, he ordered the bells in the chapel towers to be rung, and the cannon to be fired, this being the usual method of convocating the people at an unusual hour, or for some especial purpose, so, everything was suspended just there-the husband- man left his plow standing in the half-turned furrow and unloosed his oxen, never again to yoke them, leaving them to wander at will over the fields; the mechanic dropped his planes and saws on the bench, with the half-smoothed board remaining in the vise; the tanner left his tools where he was using them, and doffed his apron to don it no more in California. As soon as the entire population had assembled, Rotscheff arose and read the orders. Very sad and unwelcome, indeed, was the intelligence, but the edict had emanated from a source which could not be gainsaid, and the only alternative was a speedy and complete compliance, however reluctant it might be-and thus four hundred people were made homeless by the fiat of a single word. Time was only given to gather up a few household effects with some of the choicest mementoes, and they were hurried on board ship. Scarcely time was given to those whose loved ones were sleeping in the grave-yard near by, to pay a last sad visit to their resting-place. Embarkation was commenced at once;

EARLY HISTORY AND SETTLEMENT.

"And with the ebb of the tide the ships sailed out of the harbor, Leaving behind them the dead on the shore,"

And all the happy scenes of their lives, which had glided smoothly along on the beautiful shores of the Pacific and in the garden spot of the world. Sad and heavy must have been their hearts, as they gazed for the last time upon the receding land- scape which their eyes had learned to love, because it had been that best of places- HOME.

"This is the forest primeval; but where are the hearts that beneath it Leaped like the roe, when he hears in the woodland the voice of the huntsman ? Waste are the pleasant farms, all the farmers forever departed! Scattered like dust and leaves, when the mighty blasts of October Seize them and whirl them aloft, and sprinkle them far over the ocean, Naught but tradition remains. Still stands the forest primeval; but under the shade of its branches Dwells another race, with other customs and language, While from its rocky caverns the deep-voiced neighboring ocean Speaks, and in accents disconsolate, answers the wail of the forest."

At this stage of our remarks it may, perhaps, be well to introduce the reader to a few of the characteristics, manners, customs, and mode of living of the native Californians. These were for the most part, a half-caste race between the white Castillian and the native Indian, very few of the natives retaining the pure blood of old Castile; they were consequently of all shades of color and developed. the women especially, into a handsome and comely people. Their wants were few and easily supplied; they were contented and happy; the women were virtuous and great devo- tees to their church and religion, while, the men in their normal condition were kind and hospitable, but when excited, they became rash, fearless and cruel, with no dread for either knife or pistol. Their generosity was great, everything they had being at the disposal of a friend, or even a stranger, while socially, they loved pleasure, spending most of their time in music and dancing; indeed such was their passion for the latter that their horses have been trained to cavort in time to the tones of the guitar. When not sleeping, eating, or dancing, the men passed most of their time in the saddle and naturally were very expert equestrians. Horse-racing was with them a daily occur- rence, not for the gain which it might bring, but for the amusement to be derived therefrom; and to throw a dollar upon the ground, ride at full gallop and pick it up, was a feat that almost any of them could perform.

Horses and cattle gave them their chief occupation. They could use the riata or lasso with the utmost dexterity; whenever thrown at a bullock, horseman, or bear, it rarely missed its mark. The riata in the hand of a Californian was a more dan- gerous weapon than gun or pistol, while, to catch a wild cow with it, throw her and tie her without dismounting, was most common, and to go through the same per- formance with a bear was not considered extraordinary. Their only articles of export were hides and tallow, the value of the former being about one dollar and a half in cash, or two in goods, and the latter three cents per pound in barter. Young heifers of two years old, for breeding purposes, were worth three dollars; a fat steer, delivered to the purchaser, brought fifty cents more, while it was considered neither trespass nor larceny to kill a beeve, use the flesh, and hang the hide and tallow on a tree, secure from coyotes, where it could be found by the owner.

HISTORY OF ALAMEDA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.

Lands outside of the towns were only valuable for grazing purposes. For this use every citizen of good character, having cattle, could, for the asking, and by paying a fee to the officials, and a tax upon the paper upon which it was written, get a grant for a grazing tract of from one to eleven square leagues of land. These domains were called ranchos, the only improvements on them being usually a house and corral. They were never inclosed; they were never surveyed, but extended from one well- defined landmark to another, and whether they contained two or three leagues more or less was regarded as a matter of no consequence, for the land itself was of no value to the Government.

It was not necessary for a man to keep his cattle on his own land. They were ear-marked and branded when young, and these established their ownership. The stock roamed whithersoever they wished, the ranchero sometimes finding his animals fifty or sixty miles away from his grounds. About the middle of March commenced the " Rodeo" season, which was fixed in advance by the ranchero, who would send notice to his neighbors around, when all, with their vaqueros, would attend and par- ticipate. The rodeo was the gathering in one locality of all the cattle on the rancho. When this was accomplished, the next operation was for each ranchero present to part out from the general herd all animals bearing his brand and ear-mark and take them off to his own rancho. In doing this they were allowed to take all calves that followed their mothers, what was left in the rodeo belonging to the owner of the rancho, who had them marked as his property. On some of the ranchos the number of calves branded and marked each year appears to us at this date to be enormous, Joaquin Bernal, who owned the Santa Teresa Rancho, in the Santa Clara Valley, having been in the habit of branding not less than five thousand head yearly. In this work a great many horses were employed. Fifty head was a small number for a ranchero to own, while they frequently had from five to six hundred trained animals, principally geldings, for the mares were kept exclusively for breeding purposes. The latter were worth a dollar and a half per head; the price of saddle horses was from two dollars and fifty cents to twelve dollars.

In the month of December, 1865, a writer under the nom de plume of "Yadnus," thus writes to the San Jose Mercury :-

" Not many years ago, in the agricultural counties, or, as they are more ele- gantly termed in the parlor language of California, 'Cow Counties,' prevailed to a great extent the custom which has given rise to the following rough verses. Until the heavy floods and severe weather of the memorable winter of 1861, had more than decimated their herds, it was the practice (in accordance with law, I believe), for the wealthy rancheros-men who counted their cattle (when they counted them at all) by the thousands-to hold twice a year, a rodeo (rodere), to which all who owned stock within a circuit of fifty miles repaired, with their friends, and often with their families. At the appointed time, the cattle, for many leagues around, were gathered up by the horsemen, or vaqueros (buckaros), of the different stockmen and driven into a large corral, where the branding, marking, and claiming of stock occupied some- times a week. At the largest rodeo I ever witnessed there were gathered together some thirty thousand head of cattle, and at least three hundred human beings, among whom were many of the gentler sex. These rodeos were usually presided over by a 'Judge

EARLY HISTORY AND SETTLEMENT.

of the Plains,' an officer appointed in later years by the Board of Supervisors, and whose duty it was to arbitrate between owners in all disputes that might arise as to cattle-property, overhaul and inspect all brands of stock being driven from or through the county, and to steal as many 'hoobs' as he possibly could without detection. In fact, the 'perquisites' constituted pretty nearly the entire pay of this valuable officer, and if they all understood their business as well as the one it was my fortune to cabin with for a number of months, they made the office pay pretty well."

The following poetic description of a rodeo is well worthy the perusal of the reader :-

EL RODEO.

Few are the sunny years, fair land of gold, That round thy brow their circlet bright have twined; Yet, each thy youthful form hath still enrolled In wondrous garb of peace and wealth combined. Few are the years since old Hispania's sons Reared here their missions-tolled the chapel bell; Subdued the natives with their priestly guns, To bear the cross of God-and man as well.

Oft have the holy Fathers careless stood Within thy valleys, then a blooming waste: Or heedless, toiled among the mountain flood, That rich with treasure, downward foamed and raced. Those times and scenes have long since passed away, Before the white man's wisdom-guided tread, As fly the shades before the steps of day, When in the east he lifts his radiant head.

But still thy valleys and thy mountains teem With customs common to the race of old, Like Indian names bequeathed to lake and stream, They'll live while Time his restless reign shall hold. 'Tis of one such that I essay to sing, A custom much in vogue in sections here, Till flood and frost did such destruction bring That scarce since then was needed a rodere.

Last night, at sunset, down the stream, I saw The dark vaqueros ride along the plain, With jingling spur, and bit, and jaquima, And snake-like lariats scarce e'er hurled in vain; The steeds they rode were champing on the bit, The agile riders lightly sat their "trees," And many a laugh and waif of Spanish wit Made merry music on the evening breeze.

Far out beyond the hills their course they took, And where there lies, in early-summer days, A lake, a slough, or chance a pebbly brook, The coyote saw the camp-fire wildly blaze. All night they lay beneath the lurid glare, Till had upsprung morn's beauteous herald star, And then, received each here the needed care, Quick o'er the plains they scattered near and far.

They come! and thundering down the red-land slope, The fierce ganado madly tears along, While, close behind. urged to their utmost lope, The wild caballos drive the surging throng. At headlong speed the drivers keep the band, With yells, and oaths, and waving hats and coats, Till in the strong corral they panting, stand, And rest is gained for horses and for throats.

Then comes the breakfast; soon the steer they kill, And quickly is the dressing hurried through; The meat is cooked by rude, yet well-liked skill, And -- all do know what hungry men can do. The Padron sits beneath yon old oak tree, Encircled by a group of chatting friends; For at rodeo, all one can eat is free, So all around in greasy union blends.

The breakfast finished, cigarettes alight, Unto the huge corral all hands proceed; The strong-wove cinches are made doubly tight, And the riata's noose prepared for need. The fire is kindled, and the iron brand, Amid its coals, receives the wonted heat; The Padron waves assent, with eager hand, And the dark riders bound to saddle-seat.

Where yon dark cloud of dust is rising high, The swart vaquero like the lightning dart, And singling out their prey with practiced eye, Rush him from the affrighted herd apart, Then whirls the lasso, whistling through the air, In rapid circles o'er each horseman's head, Till round the yearling's throat is hurled the snare Burning like a huge coil of molten lead.

Then heedless of its struggles to get free, They drag it to the Mayordomo's stand, Who, though of tender heart he's wont to be, Now, merciless, sears deep in its flesh the brand. The Spanish mother, at her youngling's cry, Comes charging down with maddened hoof and horn, While far and wide the crowd of gazers fly, And hide behind the fence-posts till she's gone.

HISTORY OF ALAMEDA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.

In faith, it is a sight well worth to see,

For those who like excitement's feverish touch, And he who can look on and passive be,

Has ice within his nature overmuch.

What frantic bellowings pierce the startled air, What clouds of dust obscure the mid-day sky,

What frenzied looks the maddened cattle wear, As round and round, in vain, they raging fly!

These things, and many more, tend well to fill The eager cravings of the morbid mind, Akin to passions that full oft instill

Feelings that prompt the torture of its kind;

But he who rashly seeks a closer view Of tortured calf, to mark each groan and sigh,

Receives, full oft, rebuke in black and blue, Pointed with force to where his brains most lie.

By the time the rodeo season was over, about the middle of May, the "Matanza," or killing season, commenced. The number of cattle slaughtered each year was commensurate with the number of calves marked, and the amount of herbage for the year, for no more could be kept alive than the pasture on the rancho could sup- port. After the butchering, the hides were taken off and dried; the tallow, fit for market, was put into bags made from hides; the fattest portions of the meat were made into soap, while some of the best was cut, pulled into thin shreds, dried in the sun, and the remainder thrown to the buzzards and the dogs, a numberof which were kept-young dogs were never destroyed-to clean up after a matanza. Three or four hundred of these curs were to be found on a rancho, and it was no infrequent occurrence to see a ranchero come into a town with a string of them at his horse's heels.

Let us consider one of the habitations of these people. Its construction was beautiful in its extreme simplicity. The walls were fashioned of large, sun-dried bricks made of that black loam known to settlers in the Golden State as adobe soil, mixed with straw, measuring about eighteen inches square and three in thickness, these being cemented with mud, plastered within with the same substance, and white- washed when finished. The rafters and joists were of rough timber, with the bark simply peeled off, and placed in the requisite position, the thatch being of rushes or chaparral, fastened down with thongs of bullocks' hide. When completed, these dwellings stand the brunt and wear of many decades of years, as can be evidenced by the number which are still occupied throughout the country. The furniture con- sisted of a few cooking utensils, a rude bench or two, sometimes a table, and the never-failing red camphor-wood trunk. This chest contained the extra clothes of the women-the men wore theirs on their backs-and when a visit of more than a day's duration was made, the box was taken along. They were cleanly in their persons and clothing; the general dress being, for females, a common calico gown of plain colors, blue grounds with small figures being most fancied. The fashionable ball- dress of the young ladies was a scarlet flannel petticoat covered with a white lawn skirt, a combination of tone in color which is not surpassed by the modern gala cos- tume. Bonnets there were none, the head-dress consisting of a long, narrow shawl or scarf. So graceful was their dancing that it was the admiration of all strangers; but as much cannot be said for that of the men, for the more noise they made the better it suited them.

The dress of the men was a cotton shirt, cotton drawers, calzonazos, sash, serate, and hat. The calzonazos took the place of pantaloons in the modern costume, and differed from these by being open down the sides, or rather, the seams on the sides were not sewed as in pantaloons, but were laced together from the waistband to the hips by means of a ribbon run through eyelets; thence they were fastened with large silver bell-buttons. In wearing them they were left open from the knee down. The

EARLY HISTORY AND SETTLEMENT.

best of these garments were made of broadcloth, the inside and outside seams being faced with cotton velvet. The serape was a blanket with a hole through its center, through which the head was inserted, the remainder hanging to the knees before and behind. These cloaks were invariably of brilliant colors, and varied in price from four to one hundred and fifty dollars. The calzonazos were held in their place by a pink sash worn around the waist, while the serape served as a coat by day and a covering by night.

Their courtship was to the western mind peculiar, no flirting or love-making being permitted. When a young man of marriageable age saw a young lady whom he thought would make a happy help-mate, he had first to make his wishes known to his own father, in whose household the eligibility of the connection was primarily canvassed, when, if the desire was regarded with favor, the father of the enamored swain addressed a letter to the father of the young lady, asking for his daughter in marriage for his son. The matter was then freely discussed between the parents of the girl, and, if an adverse decision was arrived at, the father of the young man was by letter so informed, and the matter was at an end; but if the decision of her parents was favor- able to him, then the young lady's inclinations were consulted, and her decision communicated in the same manner, when they were affianced, and the affair became a matter of common notoriety. Strephon might then visit Chloe, was received as a member of her family, and when the time came the marriage. was celebrated- by feasting and dancing, which usually lasted from three to four days. It may be mentioned here that when a refusal of marriage was made, the lady was said to have given her lover the pumpkin -- Se dio la cabala.

The principal articles of food were beef and beans, in the cooking and pre- paring of which they were unsurpassed; while they cultivated, to a certain extent, maize, melons, and pumpkins. The bread used was the tortilla, a wafer in the shape of the Jewish unleavened bread, which was, when not made of wheaten flour, baked from corn. When prepared of the last-named meal, it was first boiled in a weak lye made of wood ashes, and then by hand ground into a paste between two stones; this process completed, a small portion of the dough was taken out, and by dexter- ously throwing it up from the back of one hand to that of the other the shape was formed, when it was placed upon a flat iron and baked over the fire.

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History of Alameda County, California : including its geology, topography, soil, and productions, Part 12

Author: Munro-Fraser, J. P Publication date: 1883 Publisher: Oakland, Calif. : M.W. Wood Number of Pages: 1206

Author: Munro-Fraser, J. P
Publication date: 1883
Publisher: Oakland, Calif. : M.W. Wood
Number of Pages: 1206