History of Alameda County, California : including its geology, topography, soil, and productions, Part 5

Author: Munro-Fraser, J. P
Publication date: 1883
Publisher: Oakland, Calif. : M.W. Wood
Number of Pages: 1206

USA > California > Alameda County > History of Alameda County, California : including its geology, topography, soil, and productions > Part 5

Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).

GEOGRAPHY, AREA, GEOLOGY, MINERALOGY, ETC.

knew that it meant 'Saint.' So, winding up a speech intended to be eulogistic of all the saints in the calendar, he said: 'Now, venerable fathers and laymen, allow me to propose that, on this memorable occasion, we add one more to the brilliant galaxy of sacred names in this beautiful land-one more saint to the glorious list that honors the Golden State; I propose, sirs, that the mountain on which we are now standing be hereafter and forever known as San Diablo.' It is recorded that the worthy fathers were for a moment in doubt whether to be indignant or pass 'Saint Devil' off as a joke, and the question was never fully settled; but the ambitious sponsor, somehow or other, never got the land, and would always insist that the priests were a stupid lot of humbugs."

TOPOGRAPHY .- Alameda County is shaped like an L, fronting thirty-six miles long on the eastern shore of San Francisco Bay, and extending back about the same distance till it reaches the western channel of the San Joaquin River. The county is about equally divided between level land and mountains, the former being on the Ala- meda Plain along the shore of the Bay; in Castro Valley in the Contra Costa Ridge; in Amador, Suñol and Livermore Valleys, and in that of the San Joaquin. The Contra Costa and Monte Diablo Ranges of the coast mountains cross Alameda County from north to south, running nearly parallel, and separated by a few miles, the former being the more westerly. Numerous spurs from each project, at various angles, forming a series of beautiful and fertile valleys, all connected with each other, but having differ- ent names where thus partially separated by these spurs. Among the most important of these valleys are Livermore, Suñol, Castro, Amador, and Moraga. The princi- pal stream in this county, and from which it derives its name, is the Alameda Creek. It rises in the Monte Diablo Range, near Livermore Pass, and running through a cañon in the Contra Costa Mountains, near the old Misson of San José, empties into San Francisco Bay, near Union City, supplying water-power for several grist and other mills on the way. The Alameda Creek was declared navigable by law, but it is such, in fact, to the extent of tide-water only. Between the northern limits of the county and the San Leandro Creek are many small streams, having their source in the San Pablo Hills and flowing a uniformly southwesterly direction to the bay. Of these the principal ones, commencing at the north, are Cerrito Creek, Cordonices Creek, Temescal Creek, of which there are two branches, in the southerly one of which the Contra Costa Water Company have a reservoir, Indian Gulch, Sausal or Fruit Vale Creek. San Leandro Creek, which is of some size and importance, from the fact of its being one of the sources of the water-supply of the city of Oakland, has its rise in Contra Costa County, flows in a southeasterly direction for about ten miles through gorges of the Coast Range, where it abruptly turns to the westward, crossing the valley and emptying into the bay. Its principal tributary is the Grass Valley Creek, near the junction of which with San Leandro is a reservoir of the Contra Costa Water Company. San Lorenzo Creek is made up of Cull, Eden, and Crow Cañons, and Palomares Creeks, and flowing in a southwesterly course traverses some of the best agricultural lands in the world. Segunda or Dry Creek, empties into the Alameda, near Decoto. Mission Creek, a stream of some size and importance, rises in the mountains at the back of the Mission, and flows through the town. Its waters were the first of the streams of the county to be utilized, a flouring-mill having been built

HISTORY OF ALAMEDA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.

here at an early day. To the east of the mountains the principal streams are: Corral Hollow Creek, which rises in San Joaquin County, flows westerly about ten miles, then returns in an easterly direction into the San Joaquin Valley. Arroyo Mocho flows from the extreme southeast corner of the county in a northwesterly direction near Livermore and becomes lost in the lagoon near Pleasanton. Arroyo Vallé flows from the same quarter in a nearly parallel course with the Arroyo Mocho, past Pleasanton, and empties into the lagoon. Calaveras Creek rises in Calaveras Valley, Santa Clara County, flows a northerly direction, joining the Alameda at Suñol. Its principal tributary is the Arroyo Honda (Deep Creek).

We have stated above that a range of lofty hills extends the entire length of the bay-front of the county, at an average distance of about five miles inland, and are designated by different names, as the San Pablo Hills, Contra Costa, and Coast Range. The highest elevation attained is at Mission San José, which is two thou- sand, two hundred and seventy-five feet above the level of the sea. These mountains are sparsely wooded with live-oak, manzanita, and chaparral. By deep cañons, which, at intervals, cut this range, trails and wagon-roads are practicable. Leading from the Mission de San José eastward is the old Stockton Pass, the highway of the pioneers; and a short distance to the north is the Alameda Canon, through whose majestic gorges the Central Pacific Railroad winds its tortuous way. By Hayward's Pass, which follows the course of the San Lorenzo Creek, San Ramon Valley is reached; while from San Leandro, the Moraga Valley is attained by a road following the bed of the San Leandro Creek. From the vicinity of Fruit Vale the redwood country of the San Antonio is reached by a road of easy grade. Through Indian Gulch is a toll-road, called the Thorn Road, leading into Contra Costa County. The northern- most road traversing the range is by the north fork of the Temescal Creek. Along the entire southern and eastern portions of the county are mountains and rugged hills, hardly fit for grazing purposes even. An exception occurs at the northeast corner of the county, where part of the San Joaquin Valley is included within the boundary.

The San Joaquin is accessible from Livermore and the interior valleys by two routes, the Middle Pass, or Patterson Road, and the Livermore, or Mountain House Road.

CLIMATOGRAPHY .- The climate of California varies with almost every locality, preserving but one feature that is in any sense uniform-wet winters and dry sum- mers. During the winter snow falls to a great depth in the Sierra Nevada and in small quantities upon the mountains of the Coast Range; but seldom any in the principal valleys. Along the sea-board, and wherever the country approaches the ocean level, the winters are warm and pleasant, showers alternating with sunshine, in agreeable contrast. In the summer, the cold, northern trade-winds set in about the first of May and sweep the coast regularly. The Spanish galleons, bound from Manilla to Acapulco, three centuries ago, steered for Cape Mendocino, where they would encounter the northwest trade, and run before it, with swelling sails, to their beautiful harbor. Cool, cloudless nights and delightful mornings attend these winds, but in the remote valleys, beyond their influence, the summer heat is intense and the

Wm Hayward

GEOGRAPHY, AREA, GEOLOGY, MINERALOGY, ETC.

air dry. In the valleys that lie near to the coast, like that of Alameda, Santa Clara, Napa, and the great Russian River country, the intervening chains of mountains break the blast and make the summers pleasurable-neither too hot nor too cold.

In Alameda County the winter, or rainy season, though ushered in by occasional showers, usually commences in the month of November, when vegetation starts. The summer winds have died away, save those that blow from the south and come laden with welcome rain. It must not be thought, however, that we wish to convey to the uninitiated the impression that this is a season of continuous rain. Such is not the case. It is a season of showers, sometimes of several days' duration, followed by weeks of fine, clear, balmy weather, during which the farmer tills his soil and sows his seed. By the month of March the heavy rains cease, and occasional showers infiltrate the earth until May, when the verdure attains its fullest perfection and the country looks its best. Snow seldom falls in the valley, but it frequently is to be seen upon the summits of the hills, where, however, it remains but a few days, and frost occurs, severe enough to destroy the more tender plants, but not to interfere with the growth of grasses and many kinds of vegetation.

We might here observe that the winter of 1882-83 was an unusually cold one, both snow and frost being severely felt. On December 30, 1882, there was the heav- iest fall of snow ever experienced in California.

Except alfalfa the grasses are annuals. This particular species is a coarse variety of clover, with deep roots, sometimes extending from ten to fifteen feet into the earth. It has a hard, woody fibre, about an inch in diameter, retains its verdure from year's end to year's end, and affords excellent pasturage for cattle. Roses remain in foliage throughout the winter, blossoming in sheltered places, while various species of evergreen shrubs and trees, unknown to the Eastern climate, at once lend a cheerful aspect to the landscape. The apple, pear, peach, plum, and other varieties, are denuded of their leaves, as at the East.

And now comes the season of harvesting, which the farmers perform at their lei- sure, leaving their stacks unprotected and their grain in sacks piled in the open fields for months at a time. No rain ever disturbs their labors. It is the finest harvest weather imaginable. The days are uniformly cool, with rare exceptions, enabling man and horse to accomplish the largest amount of work with the least fatigue. Dur- ing the forenoon, a good breeze springs up from the north, blowing steadily till night; but unlike the cold winds of the sea-board, it is tempered to a genial mildness by the fervid rays of the sun. From May until October the sky is usually cloudless, save with an occasional fogbank hovering over the valley, in the early morning, which is soon dispelled by the sun. There is but very little dew; vegetation dries up; the fields become sere and brown; the roads are exceedingly dusty, and a universal drought prevails. Yet, though dry, the grasses retain their nourishment and the stock thrive thereon until the winter's rain again descends and a new growth commences.

These lengthy, dry summers are truly the perfection of this climate; the desiccated, cool atmosphere being a sure protection against malaria, hence fevers are almost unknown. The nights are positively sublime. Invariably cool enough to require thick covering. Sleep becomes a luxury rarely enjoyed in other lands. It is this peculiarity of climate that gives such perfection to the cereals, such luster and lusciousness to the summer fruits produced in Alameda County.

HISTORY OF ALAMEDA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.

Next come the hazy autumn days. The trade-winds have ceased; the atmos- phere grows thick with gathering moisture; the changing currents whirl the dust and leaves into weird columns; the south wind settles down to its work, and the drama of the seasons is repeated.

In concluding our subject of the climatography of Alameda County let us quote from Lieutenant Maury, that eminent scientist whose fame is world-wide. He says: "The calm and trade-wind regions or belts move up and down the earth, annu- ally, in latitude nearly a thousand miles. In July and August the zone of equatorial calms is found between 7º N. and 12º N; sometimes higher; in March and April, between latitude 5° S. and 2º N. With this fact, and these points of view before us, it is easy to perceive why it is that we have a rainy season in Oregon, a rainy season and a dry season in California, another at Panama, two at Bogota, none in Peru, and one in Chili. In Oregon it rains every month, but about five times more in the winter than in the summer months. The winter there is the summer of the southern hemisphere, when this steam-engine is working with the greatest pressure. The vapor that is taken by the southeast trades is borne along over the region of northeast trades to latitude 35° or 40° N., where it descends and appears on the surface with the southeast winds of those latitudes. Driving up on the high lands of the continent, this vapor is condensed and precipitated, during this part of the year, almost in constant showers, and to the depth of about thirty inches in three months. In the winter the calm belt of Cancer approaches the equator. This whole system of zones, viz .: of trades, calms, and westerly winds, follows the sun; and they of our hemisphere are nearer the equator in the winter and spring months than at any other season. The southeast winds commence at this season to prevail as far down as the lower part of California. In winter and spring the land in California is cooler than the sea air, and is quite cold enough to extract moisture from it. But in summer and autumn the land is warmer, and cannot condense the vapors of water held by the air. So the same cause which made it rain in Oregon makes it rain in California. As the sun returns to the north, he brings the calm belt of Cancer and the northeast trades along with him; and now, at places where, six months before, the southwest winds were the prevailing winds, the northeast trades are found to blow. This is the case in the latitude of California. The prevailing winds, then, instead of going from a warmer to a cooler climate, as before, are going the opposite way. Consequently, if under these circumstances they have the moisture in them to make rains of, they cannot precipitate it. Proof, if proof were wanting, that the prevailing winds in the latitude of California are from the west- ward, is obvious to all who cross the Rocky Mountains or ascend the Sierra Madre."

It will thus be seen that the wind, which has so general an influence upon our climate, comes directly from the Pacific Ocean, forces its way through the Golden Gate, and, striking the Contra Costa Hills, is wafted into the many delightful valleys of the conterminous counties.

SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS .- The following remarks have been culled from "The Natural Wealth of California," by Titus Fay Cronise :-

The soil of the plains in this county is generally a rich, black, sandy loam, from six to fifteen feet deep, resting on a substratum of sand and gravel, and is sufficiently

GEOGRAPHY, AREA, GEOLOGY, MINERALOGY, ETC.

moist to growany description of fruit, grain, or vegetables, without irrigation. The soil on the foot-hills and mountains is somewhat lighter in color, not so deep, but gravelly and dry, and everywhere fertile.

With so fine a soil and climate, and with so many facilities and inducements for its cultivation, the greater portion of this county, adjacent to the Bay of San Fran- cisco, has been converted into continuous gardens, orchards, and grain-fields; but much of the best land in the southeastern part of the county, east of the Contra Costa Mountains, including portions of the Amador and Suñol Valleys, is but partially cul- tivated.

Thirteen miles southeast from Oakland, on the northern bank of the San Lorenzo Creek, is the garden from which Oregon obtained its best apple and other fruit trees. In 1846, John Lewelling, the pioneer nurseryman of the Pacific Coast, took a wagon- load of fruit trees raised here, into that State, which were among the first ever planted there. In this vicinity are several other extensive nursery and seed gardens, the soil and climate being peculiarly well fitted for horticultural purposes. Here, Daniel L. Perkins raised the hundred and thirty varieties of vegetable seeds exhibited at the Paris Exposition in 1867, for which he obtained a premium, and what proved more profitable, numerous orders for suppiles from the Atlantic States, France, England, Germany, Russia, China, Japan, and several other countries. The products of this gentleman's little patch, is singularly suggestive of the silent but effective influence the productions of California are exciting abroad.

To illustrate the richness of the soil in this locality, and the proportions of the vegetables raised here, we mention the following facts: A beet raised in Mr. Lewelling's garden, weighed two hundred pounds; in 1867, R. S. Farrelly raised a carrot which measured thirty-six inches in length and thirty-one inches in circumference, weighing thirty-one pounds after the leaves were cut off. These mammoth proportions are not confined to the vegetables alone, but extend to fruits, flowers, and berries. Cher- ries of the Graffan variety, grown in Lewelling's orchard, in 1867, were selling in the streets of San Francisco, which measured three inches in circumference; pears raised here frequently weigh three and a half pounds; strawberries, which are extensively cultivated, also grow to an extraordinary size. Mr. Pancoast, who in 1867 cultivated a patch of eighty acres, raised many berries weighing from one and a quarter to one and a half ounces each.

Amador Valley, formerly the valley of San José, where the padres of that old mission pastured their cattle, is now the great grain district of this county. It is of a triangular form about eighty miles in diameter, and nearly surrounded by low, grassy hills, being spurs of the Monte Diablo and Contra Costa Ranges. Its soil is a moist, sandy loam, producing good crops of wheat, barley, and corn, when less favored dis- tricts suffer from drought. Where not under cultivation, its surface is covered with thick crops of wild oats and burr clover, the most nutritious of all the native grasses. Less than twenty-five years ago this valley was a cattle ranch-twenty thousand cattle, fifteen thousand sheep, and three thousand horses finding abundant pasturage in the vicinity. But it is all fenced in now and no cattle except milch cows, working oxen, and horses, graze on the surrounding hills.

The increase in the value of land in this valley, since it has been brought under

HISTORY OF ALAMEDA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.

cultivation, and its productiveness ascertained, has been very considerable. In October, 1867, three thousand acres of the rancho El Valle de San José (at the lower end of it) were purchased for seventy thousand dollars; two years previously the purchaser had declined the same property when offered for thirteen thousand five hundred dollars. .

In Livermore Valley are located some of the largest grain-fields in the State. In 1867, Richard Threlfall cropped here four thousand acres, all embraced in one field, and averaged twenty-four bushels to the acre; some portions as much as forty bushels averaging sixty-two pounds per bushel. On the eastern side of this field, where the rays of the sun reached the grain in the early morning, while the dew remained upon it, it appeared almost solid enough to walk upon. The tall straw, nearly four feet high, was perfectly straight, and the compact growth of the ears rendered it impossible for the heavier to droop. When threshed, almost every grain in the immense field was of the same size and color, pale and plump, as good California wheat always is. This grain farm gives employment to sixty men, one hundred and forty horses and mules; uses three headers, five reaping machines, and two steam threshers. In the plowing season, eighty acres are plowed, sowed, and harrowed daily.

In reference to the products of this valley, the yield above stated, although quite large as compared with that usually obtained in other countries, is not quite up to the average in this locality, such large fields not being as well managed as smaller ones. On the Santa Rita Ranch adjoining, one hundred acres yielded seventy-five bushels per acre; a field of sixty acres, in the same valley, producing sixty bushels to the acre.

Connected with the Amador Valley are two smaller valleys-the Alamo and Tassajara, both equally fertile. The whole of these valleys, and a considerable tract lying adjacent, were included in the rancho once owned by José Maria Amador, whose name it now bears. Amador, in 1850, sold this property to Americans for a trifle. In 1866, one of his sons obtained a precarious living as a squatter among the hills that surrounded the valley in which he was born, and which, under American enterprise and energy, has since produced many million dollars' worth of grain.

POMOLOGY .- Let us now take a retrospect of another division of pioneer labor, in the fields of horticulture, which, though not so pretentious in its growth, at the same time exercises not less abiding influences on our well-being. It has been said, " Fine fruits are the flowers of commodities." A tree planted is an heirloom for future generations; it is a sign of expanded culture and civilization ; its shade as grateful to the wayfarer as to its owner, without diminishing his substance. The mission fathers early planted orchards of such kind as it was then possible to transplant from Mexico or old Spain; they had several varieties of pears, a few apples and almonds. Pome- granates, figs, olives, and grapes were more assiduously cultivated. The grapes, mashed and fermented in large rawhide vats, yielded an amber juice celebrated for its sugary and fruity flavor. With the expansion of settlements, such trees and vines were sparsely planted by the rancheros. On the advent of the Americans, fruit of any kind, and especially grapes, bore fabulous prices, inducing many, from the innate love of the occupation, others carried by the money point, to bend all their energies, sup- ported by capital, untiring industry and perseverance, to obtain from foreign coun- tries the choicest and best varieties, and acclimate them in our midst. Unfortunately

GEOGRAPHY, AREA, GEOLOGY, MINERALOGY, ETC.

the majority of trees thus obtained at exorbitant prices proved worthless, as not true to name, or not suited to the climate, or not satisfactory to public taste; many were planted in improper locations, some dried up, and more were killed by irrigation or overflows.

A few fruit trees planted in the years 1851 and 1852 still survive. Alameda County, within hail of San Francisco, with the most perfect climate, possesses also the richest of soils, and admirable locations. Here a slope, basking in the full sunshine, fit to distill the sugar-essence of grapes; there a low, moist, cool valley, the home of the apple and plum; or a rich, mellow, alluvial soil, sheltered, cosy and warm, where the peach blushes as a rose, and gives challenge for its sugary juiciness. All this ground, if well cultivated, is abundantly watered by the dews of heaven, carried on soft wings to this their resting-place. The choicest varieties of grapes grow to perfection. Pomegranates, olives, figs, and almonds find a congenial home. Oranges require but little shelter when young, not more than in Italy or Spain, soon get acclimated, and the golden fruit ripens well.

The experience now gained in the manner of cultivation, the selection of favor- able locations, the knowledge of varieties desirable for certain uses, the way of pre- paring them for market, and the ready foreign demand now created for these products, make the venture now certain of pecuniary profit, and is soon to be considered indispensable in mixed and advanced husbandry-which we must now diligently cultivate, if not wishing to be left behind in the race for prosperity and advancement. Thus, from five to twenty acres on each farm, planted with fruit suitable for drying, raisins, or wine, will make a gradual transit from the old ways of farming, without jeopardizing present sources of income, and will create a demand for Alden factories, raisin camps and co-operative wine cellars. Then it will be apparent how long we have remained in an indolent, Rip Van Winkle slumber of grain-growing to supply cheap bread to distant nations, and impoverishing ourselves for their sakes.

SALT-MAKING .-- Among the many productive resources of Alameda County that of marine salt-making is one of the most important. The natural advantages for prosecuting this industry are nowhere better than on the eastern shore of the Bay of San Francisco. A vast extent of land, designated on maps as "salt marsh," lies between San Leandro Bay on the north and the Warm Springs Landing, or Har- risburg, on the south, and between these points the salt works of Alameda County are located. These marshes are traversed in all directions by estuaries or sloughs putting in from the bay, very many of which are navigable, thus affording easy access to the salt fields and means for cheap transportation.

In the " Second Report of the State Mineralogist of California, from December 1, 1880, to October 1, 1882," we find the subject most elaborately treated. It informs us that in 1848-49, on the shores of San Francisco Bay, native Californians gathered solar salt from natural reservoirs, which at high tides overflowed. The salt accumu- lated in these basins until it had formed a deposit of eight inches or more. When the natural deposit became exhausted, advantage was taken of the lesson taught by nature, and salt works of the crudest forms were commenced, which led to the present extensive works. The lands were taken up first by launchers, mostly Swedes, who.

Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.

History of Alameda County, California : including its geology, topography, soil, and productions, Part 5

Author: Munro-Fraser, J. P Publication date: 1883 Publisher: Oakland, Calif. : M.W. Wood Number of Pages: 1206

Author: Munro-Fraser, J. P
Publication date: 1883
Publisher: Oakland, Calif. : M.W. Wood
Number of Pages: 1206