History of Alameda County, California : including its geology, topography, soil, and productions, Part 9

Author: Munro-Fraser, J. P
Publication date: 1883
Publisher: Oakland, Calif. : M.W. Wood
Number of Pages: 1206

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HISTORY OF ALAMEDA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.

name of the King of Spain, Serra began the working out of the plan so long in his mind.

He first founded the Mission of San Carlos de Monterey, which always remained the central point of his operations. With this as his headquarters, he went out from time to time into various parts of the country, and one by one established and encour- aged into a flourishing condition all the other missions of California. As before stated, they were twenty-one in all. Taking into consideration the very small num- ber of white men who assisted him in these labors, the rapidity of his success was something remarkable. There is no doubt that it is to be ascribed to the kindness, gentleness, and ever-enduring patience which he invariably exhibited toward the Indians. In the construction of the churches, for instance, upon which we look with so much astonishment when told that they were built by the traditionally lazy Indian, it is very likely that he employed large numbers upon the work, in order that it should not bear too heavily upon individuals. He certainly employed methods of great wisdom in the management of these ignorant creatures, and could he have been endowed with a miraculous life of several hundred years, might well have given the lie to the oft-repeated complaints of Americans, that it is impossible to civilize the Indians. But it is too late now for us to study his methods. Only a handful of Indians remain to meet yearly on the day of San Carlos and raise their quavering chant over the grave of Junipero. As a natural result of his treatment of them, the Indians came to look upon Serra almost with adoration. They loved him for his gentleness, they respected him for his firmness, and they admired him for his ability. But every life, however valuable, must finally draw to a close, and in August, 1784, Junipero felt that his end was approaching. On the morning of the 27th, being very ill, he began to prepare for death.

He first confessed himself to his friend, Francisco Palou, and went through the ceremonies of the dying. Then, ill and suffering as he was, he went on foot to the church to receive the sacrament. The building was crowded with both whites and Indians, drawn thither by a common grief. At the beginning of the ceremony the hymn " Tantum Ergo" was sung, and according to the record Junipero himself joined in the singing with a "high, strong voice." We can easily realize that the congrega- tion became so much affected upon hearing him sing his own death chant that they were unable to sing more, and, choking with emotion, sat listening, while the dying man's voice finished it alone. He then received the sacrament upon his knees, and recited thanks, according to the ritual, in a distinct voice. This ceremony over he returned to his cell, but did not lie down nor take off any of his clothing. In the night he asked Palou to administer holy unction to him and join with him in the recital of the penitential psalms and litanies. The remainder of the night he passed in giving thanks to God, sometimes kneeling and sometimes sitting upon the floor. Early the next morning he asked Palou to give him plenary indulgence, and once more con- fessed himself. Shortly afterwards the Captain and the Chaplain of a Spanish vessel which was then in the harbor came in. Serra received them in his usual manner when in health, cordially, and embracing the Chaplain with warmth, he thanked God that these visitors from afar, who had traversed so much of land and sea, had come in time to throw a little dirt on his body. Conversing with Palou, he expressed some anxiety and asked him to read the recommendation of the soul.

EARLY HISTORY AND SETTLEMENT.

He then said that he felt comforted, and thanked God that he had no fear. After a time he asked for a little broth, and was supported into the kitchen, where he sat down and drank a little. He was assisted to his bed, and no sooner touched it then he fell back in death. Having been for some time expecting his end, he had ordered his own coffin to be made by the carpenter of the mission. This was now brought out, and the body placed in it without changing the clothing. It was then carried to the church to await burial. The church bell notified the people of the event, and all gathered within for a last look at the dead face of their beloved friend and benefactor. They gathered closely around the coffin and attempted to secure pieces of his clothing to preserve as sacred relics. They were with difficulty prevented from doing this by the promise that a certain tunic, which he had been in the habit of wearing in life, should be divided among them. A guard was placed over the body, but notwithstanding the close watch which was kept, some part of the vestment was taken away in the night. The funeral ceremonies were conducted with great state, people coming from every direction to take part in it. The solemn tolling of the church bells and the firing of salutes by the vessel in the harbor, added to the impres- siveness of the occasion. Such is the account of the life, death, and burial of Junipero Serra, as written in the records by his friend Francisco Palou, without comment or exaggeration. And now those bones, so solemnly laid to rest on that day, are once more brought forth to the light in order that the memory of such a character may not be entirely forgotten.

While dealing with the march of Captain Juan Bautista, of the Portala party, from Monterey, when seeking for San Francisco, Father Palou, California's first historian, makes mention of the region in which Alameda County is now located, in these words: " In the valley of San Jose, the party coming up by land, saw some animals which they took for cattle, though they could not imagine where they came from; and, supposing they were wild and would scatter the tame ones they were driving, the soldiers made after them and succeeded in killing three, which were so large that a mule could with difficulty carry one, being of the size of an ox, and with horns like those of a deer, but so long that their tips were eight feet apart. This was their first view of the elk. The soldiers made the observation that they could not run against the wind by reason of their monstrous antlers."

It is but reasonable to suppose that the valley called San José by Father Palou is that portion of our county situated at its southern end, and where was subsequently erected the mission bearing that name. It is not likely that the Santa Clara Valley was meant, for that district was then called San Bernardino, and the Pueblo of San José was not established until November 29, 1777, while the holy father speaks of the year 1773; besides we know that a portion of Murray Township is still known as El Valle de San José, and the gentle slope in what is now the district of Washington Corners, the Mission and Harrisburg is not unfrequently designated the San José Valley. Palou goes on to remark that "after the presidio and before the mission was established (in San Francisco) an exploration of the interior was organized, as usual, by sea (the bay) and land. Point San Pablo was given as the rendezvous, but the Captain of the presidio (Moraga), who undertook in person to lead the land party, failed to appear there, having, with a desire to shorten the distance, entered a cañon

HISTORY OF ALAMEDA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.

somewhere near the head of the bay, which took him over to the San Joaquin River. So he discovered that stream." Thus it is plain that one party had proceeded down the San Mateo side of the bay, crossed over to its eastern shore, where, coming to the . spot where now stands the hamlet of Niles, and, following the rocky banks of the Alameda Creek, ultimately came into the Livermore Valley, crossing which they emerged into the wide expanse of territory through which flows the San Joaquin, which Moraga named in honor of his brother.

Let us now turn to another portion of the history of this section of the State anterior to the establishment of the Mission San José, and which treats us to the first official prominence of our county.

During the Gubernatorial regime of Don Felipe de Neve, which commenced in December, 1774, and closed September, 1782, reports on the topography, character, and condition of Upper California, and what situations were most suitable for estab- lishments, were frequently made to His Most Catholic Majesty, the King of Spain, through the Viceroy in Mexico. The country from north to south, from San Diego to San Francisco, then the Dan and Beersheba of our State, was carefully examined and permission sought to locate two pueblos or towns, viz .: That tract of land, now Los Angeles, which lies contiguous to the river La Portincula, one hundred and twenty-six miles from San Diego, and six from the Mission of San Gabriel, and also that tract on the margin of the river Guadalupe, seventy-eight miles from the Presidio of Monterey, forty-eight from that of San Francisco, and two miles and a quarter from the Mission of Santa Clara. The Pueblo of San José became subject to annual inundations, and, after protracted delays (during the administration of Don Diego de Borica between the years 1794, and 1800), the village was moved to higher ground, in 1797. To effect this relief, as well as to establish another pueblo, to be called Branciforte, Borica dispatched Don Pedro de Allerni, with instructions to examine the country and report to him those sites that he thought most convenient for the purpose. This he duly transmitted, as follows :-

"Having examined the points set forth in the foregoing Superior Official Com- munication, as well as those requiring me to set forth all that I might think necessary, I might reply as follows: The principal object and view of the whole matter may be reduced to the project formed by Don José Maria Beltram, and forwarded by the Royal Tribunal de Mentas to the Most Excellent Viceroy, in relation to the establish- ing of a villa, or poblacion; and its being necessary to remember that in order to attain the desired end an eye must be had to such favorable circumstances as are required to give the inhabitants of the same the necessary advantages, such as a plentiful supply of water, wood, irrigable and arable lands, forest, pastures, stone, lime or earth for adobes; and having been commissioned to this end for the examination, which I made with the Señor Governor, Don Diego Borica, of the country, from the Mission of Santa Cruz, Arroyo del Pajaro, and the Mission of Santa Clara, to THE PLACE OF THE ALAMEDA, and the country around the Presidio and the Fort of San Francisco, and the mission of the same name. After a careful and scrupulous exam- ination of these places with the Engineer Extraordinary, Don Alberto de Cardoba, I found that THE PLACE OF THE ALAMEDA, although it contains a creek, still that it affords but little water, and that the channel is so deep * that it is difficult to obtain

*Don Alberni must here refer to the precipitous banks of the stream, and not to the depth of its water.

EARLY HISTORY AND SETTLEMENT.

water therefrom for irrigating the extensive plains of what appears to be good lands; but as the place is without fuel, timber, and pasturage, which cannot be obtained save at the distance of many leagues, it is clear that it is unsuitable for the project under consideration."

We have not the faintest hesitation in claiming "the place of the Alameda " as the Alameda Creek of to-day, for its wooded banks when first seen by these explorers might easily have led them to suppose it an avenue or grove of graceful willows and silver-barked sycamores. But how it was that he found no water for irrigating pur- poses, no wood, and no site for a village, is to us incomprehensible, when it is consid- ered that now there is enough water the year round for both agricultural and pastoral purposes. The present sites of Alameda and Oakland were densely covered with fine old oaks, the giant redwoods reared their tall heads to the sky in the hills near where now East Oakland stands, while since that time no less than four prosperous villages have risen on the river's banks, viz .: Alvarado, Centreville, Niles, and Suñol.

In following the chronological order of events, it now becomes our duty to notice the founding of the Mission de San José, aptly termed " the cradle of Alameda County." While Diego de Borica was yet Governor of Upper California, on June II, 1797, this grand old relic was established on as fair a site as is to be found under the blue canopy of heaven, and how, and 'by whom, the following statement, to be found in one of the huge calf-bound Spanish tomes in which were entered with the most scrupulous care and neatness the births, marriages, and deaths and the general spiritual and temporal welfare of the community under its jurisdiction, will explain :-

" The Mission San José was founded at the expense of the Catholic King of Spain, Charles IV .- God save him-and by order of the Marquis of Branciforte, Vice- roy and General Governor of N. S. The San José Mission commenced on Sunday, IIth of June, 1797, the feast of the Most Holy Trinity. I, the undersigned, President of these Missions of New California, placed by His Majesty under the care of the apostolical college of the propaganda fide of St. Fernando de Mexico, blessed water, the place, and a big cross, and with great veneration we hoisted it. Immediately after we sang the litanies of the Saints, and I celebrated the holy sacrifice of the mass and preached to the army and to the native Indians who were there, and we ended the ceremony singing solemnly the Te Deum. At the same time I appointed for the first missionaries Rev. Fr. Ysidoro Barcenilla and Rev. Friar Augustine Merino, A. M. [Signed] FRIAR FRANCISCO LAMEN."

Thus was the Mission San José established, ten miles to the north of the pueblo of that name and forty to the east of San Francisco, on a plateau indenting the Contra Costa Hills and facing the southern extremity of the Bay of San Francisco. Behind it were the beautiful Calaveras and Suñol Valleys; Mission Peak rose imme- diately in its rear like a giant sentinel indexing its location; while, in its vicinity, nature had abundantly supplied every want. Here was a pellucid stream of sweetest water perennially running from never-failing springs; here, too, were the paramount advantages of climate; wood was abundant for building purposes and for fuel; killing frosts were unknown; an embarcadero was not far distant, and within an hour's walk were warm springs, possessed of the most effective healing qualities. What more was needed? From this point of vantage a view of unsurpassed loveliness lay before

HISTORY OF ALAMEDA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.

them-a vast level plain promising the rarest fertility. At their feet was the wide expanse of the glorious bay, and to the right and left the splendid chains of the Contra Costa and the Coast Range. The first building erected was a chapel, a small adobe edifice which was enlarged by seven varas in the second year of its exist- ence. A wall forty-seven varas long, four high and six wide, thatched with tules, was constructed, water flumes laid, and, being in the presidial jurisdiction of San Fran- cisco, soldiers were sent from there to keep guard over it, and bring the natives in for purposes of education.

In the establishment of missions the three agencies brought to bear were the military, the civil, and the religious, being each represented by the Presidio, or garri- son; the Pueblo, the town or civic community; and the Mission, the church, which played the most prominent part. Says one writer: "The Spaniards had then, what we are lacking to-day-a complete municipal system. Theirs was derived from the Romans. Under the civil Roman law, and the Gothic, Spanish and Mexican laws, municipal communities were never incorporated into artificial powers, with a common seal and perpetual succession, as with us under English and American laws; conse- quently, under the former, communities in towns held their lands in common; when thirty families had located on a spot, the pueblo or town was a fact. They were not incorporated, because the law did not make it a necessity, a general law or custom having established the system. The right to organize a local government, by the election of an Alcalde or Mayor, and a Town Council, which was known as an ayun- tamiento, was patent. The instant the poblacion was formed, it became thereby enti- tled to four leagues of land and the pobladors, citizens, held it in pro indivisa. The title was a natural right.

" The missions were designed for the civilization and conversion of the Indians. The latter were instructed in the mysteries of religion (so far as they could compre- hend them) and the arts of peace. Instruction of the savage in agriculture and manufactures, as well as in prayers and elementary education, was the padre's busi- ness. The soldiers protected them from the hostility of the intractable natives, hunted down the latter and brought them within the confines of the mission to labor and salvation."

In his able history of the Catholic Church in California, Father Gleeson tells us that the missions were usually quadrilateral buildings, two stories high, inclosing a court-yard ornamented with fountains and trees, the whole consisting of the church, father's apartments, store-houses, barracks, etc. The quadrilateral sides were each about six hundred feet in length, one of which was partly occupied by the church. Within the quadrangle and corresponding with the second story was a gallery running round the entire structure and opening upon the work-shops, store-rooms, and other apartments.

The entire management of each establishment was under the care of two Relig- ious; the elder attended to the interior and the younger to the exterior administra- tion. One portion of the building, which was called the monastery, was inhabited by the young Indian girls. There, under the care of approved matrons, they were carefully trained and instructed in those branches necessary for their condition in life. They were not permitted to leave till of an age to be married, and this with

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Henry Vivoman.

EARLY HISTORY AND SETTLEMENT.

the view of preserving their morality. In the schools those who exhibited more talent than their companions were taught vocal and instrumental music, the latter consisting of the flute, horn, and violin. In the mechanical departments, too, the most apt were promoted to the position of foremen. The better to preserve the morals of all, none of the whites, except those absolutely necessary, were employed at the mission.

The daily routine at each establishment was about the same as that followed by the Jesuits in Lower California. At sunrise they arose and proceeded to church, where, after morning prayer, they assisted at the holy sacrifice of the mass. Break- fast next followed, when they proceeded to their respective employments. Toward noon they returned to the mission and spent the time from then till two o'clock between dinner and repose; after which they again repaired to their work and remained engaged till the evening angelus, about an hour before sundown. All then betook themselves to the church for evening devotions, which consisted of the ordinary family prayers and the rosary, except on special occasions, when other devotional exercises were added. After supper, which immediately followed, they amused them- selves in divers sports, games, and dancing, till the hour for repose. Their diet, of which the poor of any country might be justly envious, consisted of an abundance of excellent beef and mutton, with vegetables in the season. Wheaten cakes and puddings, or porridges, called "atole and pinole," also formed a portion of the repast. The dress was, for the males, linen shirts, pants, and a blanket to be used as an over- coat. The women received each, annually, two undergarments, a gown, and a blanket. In years of plenty, after the missions became rich, the fathers distributed all the surplus moneys among them in clothing and trinkets. Such was the general character of the early missions established in Upper California.

Let us now briefly consider what was the character and condition of the Indian on the arrival of the Spanish fathers. For veracity's sake we must aver that the Californian Indian was anything but an easy subject for civilization. Knowledge he had none; his religion or morals were of the crudest form, while all in all he was the most degraded of mortals. He lived without labor and existed for naught save his ease and his pleasure. In physique he was unprepossessing; being possessed of much endurance and strength; his features were unattractive, his hair in texture like the mane of a horse, and his complexion as dark as the Ethiop's skin. His chief delight was the satisfying of his appetite and lust, while he lacked courage enough to be warlike and was devoid of that spirit of independence usually the principal character- istic of his race. The best portion of his life was passed in sleeping and dancing, while in the temperate California climate, the fertile valleys and hill-sides grew an abundance of edible seeds and wild fruits, which were garnered and by them held in great store. Such means of existence being so easily obtained is perhaps a reason for the wonderful disinclination of Indians to perform any kind of labor. Indeed, what need was there that they should toil, when a beneficent Nature had, with a gen- erosity that knew no stint, placed within their grasp an unlimited supply of health- giving food!

As we have said, the aboriginal Californian's life was a roving one, for they had no fixed habitation, but roamed about from place to place, fishing, hunting, and gathering

HISTORY OF ALAMEDA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.

supplies. In every stream were fish, and on every mountain-side and valley, game; acorns and pine-nuts, roots and wild oats, were included in the category of their edibles, while, it is said, their tastes precluded them not from feasting upon vermin. Their dialects were as various as those of China to-day, and the natives of San Diego could not understand those of Los Angeles or Monterey.

These Indians had as dwellings the meanest of huts, built of willows and thatched with tules, or rushes. They were fashioned by taking a few poles and placing them in a circle, which were woven together to a conical point, giving them, when com- pleted, the appearance of inverted baskets. They were small and easily warmed in winter, and, when swarming with vermin, could readily be reduced to ashes and others built in their stead. Their cabins or "wickeups " were usually constructed on the banks of streams, or in the dells of mountains, but always near some running water-course. There, without a vestige of covering, they slept like "sardines in a tin," those on the outer edge quarreling, as in more civilized circles, for an inside place. On rising from their litters, be it summer or winter, the first performance would be to plunge into the river; after which they would dance and play around a huge fire, when, with a healthy appetite, they would relish a hearty meal. This was their custom in the cold mountain regions as well as in the more temperate valleys. The skins of beasts made them a covering comfortable enough, but the males gen- erally wore absolutely nothing upon their persons save an arrow passed through the hair-something like the mode of hair ornament in vogue with many fashionable belles. One of these warriors, thus clad, on one occasion paid General Vallejo a visit at Sonoma. As the day was cold the General asked his guest if he was not cold. "No," was the answer, "is your face cold ?" "Not at all," replied the veteran Commandante, "I never wear anything on my face." "Then," rejoined the Indian, triumphantly pointing to his body, "I am all face!" The toilet of the women, as in other parts of the world, was more pretentious. It consisted of a scanty apron of fancy skins or feathers extending to the knees. Those of them who were unmarried wore, in addition, a bracelet around the arm near the shoulder, or a band around the ankle, which was generally made of bone or fancy wood. Polygamy was a recognized insti- tution. Chiefs generally possessed eleven wives, sub-chiefs nine, and ordinary indi- viduals two or more, according to their wealth or property. Indian like they would fight among themselves, and bloody fights these often were. Their weapons were bows and arrows, clubs and spears, with which they were very adroit. Their head- dress was a helmet composed of skins. They were remarkable athletes and unex- celled as swimmers and runners. In times of peace they kept up their martial spirit, little though it was, by sham fights and tournaments, their women participating in their battles, not as actual belligerents, but as a sanitary brigade they followed their warriors and supplied them with provisions and attended them when wounded, carry- ing their pappooses on their backs at the same time.

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History of Alameda County, California : including its geology, topography, soil, and productions, Part 9

Author: Munro-Fraser, J. P Publication date: 1883 Publisher: Oakland, Calif. : M.W. Wood Number of Pages: 1206

Author: Munro-Fraser, J. P
Publication date: 1883
Publisher: Oakland, Calif. : M.W. Wood
Number of Pages: 1206