USA > California > Contra Costa County > History of Contra Costa County, California; with biographical sketches of the leading men and women of the county who have been identified with its growth and development from the early days to the present > Part 8
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"On Friday, March 27th, with wondering eyes the motley band of Spaniards beheld for the first time the Golden Gate (it was not so named until 1848).
"On their march over San Antonio Valley, now Alameda and Oakland, great herds of deer, antelope and elk were encountered, and bear were daily camp visitors. In the evening smoke arose from hundreds of In- dian campfires among the oaks, a picture hard to reconcile with the noisy cities of today. Continuing on over the Richmond hills, following the line of least resistance, they traveled over what is practically the route of the popular boulevard skirting the base of Mount Diablo.
"Fray Crespi gave a detailed account of the fertile country over which the party traveled and tells with much disappointment of encountering. after so long and tedious a journey, a body of water (Carquinez Straits ), which prevented their going forward to Point Reyes (old Port San Francisco).
"A conference was held among the little band, and to push forward meant building boats ; so the project was abandoned. On the return trip they crossed the present site of Antioch, going eastward along the south-
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ern shores of Suisun Bay to a point just north of Diablo. From these hills Captain Fagis and Fray Crespi beheld before them the great rivers of the great central valleys, and Fagis named the nearest one the San Joaquin.
"Thus, to that expedition of 1772 stands the credit of discovering the Golden Gate and the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers; the naming of the dominating landmark, Mount Diablo; and acquainting the world with the splendid region on the eastern shore which Fray Palou calls 'Great Sea of the Mediterranean'."
A legend of Mount Diablo runs as follows :
There was once a time when there were no human inhabitants in Cali- fornia. There were two spirits, one evil and the other good. They made war on each other, and the good spirit overcame the evil one. At that period the entire face of the country was covered with water, except two islands, one being Mount Diablo and the other Eagle Point on the north. There was a coyote on the peak, the only living thing there. One day the coyote saw a feather floating on the water. As it reached the island it turned into an eagle, which flew upon the mountain. The coyote was pleased with his new companion; dwelling in harmony together, they 'made occasional excursions to the other island, the coyote swimming and the eagle flying.
After some time they counseled together and concluded to make In- dians, and as the Indians increased the water decreased, until where the water had been there was now dry land.
At that time, what is now known as the Golden Gate was a continuous chain of mountains, so it was possible to go from one side to the other without getting wet. Then there were only two outlets for all the waters on this side of the Sierras, the Russian River and the San Juan at Pajaro. A great earthquake later severed the chain of mountains and formed the Golden Gate. Then the waters of the ocean and Bay mingled and it was not long before the "pale face," or white man, found his way into Califor- nia ; and so as the waters decreased at the coming of the Indian, so have the Indians decreased at the coming of the white man, until the war- whoop is heard no more and the council fire is no more lighted. The In- dians, like shadows, have passed silently away from the land of the coyote and the eagle.
The following legend of the naming of Mount Diablo is told by Gen- eral Vallejo:
"In 1806 a military expedition from San Francisco marched against the tribe 'Bolgones,' who were encamped at the foot of the mountain. The Indians were prepared to receive the expedition, and a hot engage- ment ensued in the hollow fronting the western side. As the victory was about to be decided in favor of the Indians, an unknown personage, dec- orated with the most extraordinary plumage, and making divers move- ments, suddenly appeared near the combatants. The Indians were vic- torious and the incognito (Puy) departed towards the mountain. The defeated soldiers, on learning that the spirit went through the same cere-
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mony daily and at all hours, named the mountain Diablo, in allusion to its mysterious inhabitant, who continued to make his appearance until the tribe was subdued by troops in command of Lieut. Gabriel Moraga, in a second campaign of the same year. In the Indian tongue, Puy means evil spirit; in Spanish, it means Diablo; in Anglo-American, Devil."
The mountain is also said to take its name from a phenomenon wit- nessed amongst its gorges at a time when Indians were numerous. The story runs thus : Once, in an expedition against horse-thief tribes, who in- habited the valley as far down as the base of the mountain, the native Californians came up with a party of freebooters laden with spoils of a hunt, and immediately gave chase, driving them up the steep defiles which form the ascent of the mountain on one side. Elated with the prospect of securing and meting out punishment to the robbers, they were pressing hard after them, when from a cavernous opening in their path there issued forth such fierce flames, accompanied by so terrible a roaring, that, think- ing themselves within a riata's throw of the principal entrance to his in- fernal majesty's summer palace, the astonished rancheros forgot their hos- tile errand and, turning tail, went down the mountain faster than they went up. On reciting their adventure to their fellow ranchers, it was agreed that the Devil and his chief steward had fixed their abode in the mountain; and so they named it Mount Diablo.
The mountain itself is one of the most conspicuous and best-known landmarks in California, and as such was naturally selected as the basis of the survey systems of the State this side of the Tehachapi. It is not its great elevation which has given it its preeminence, for other peaks in the Coast Range are higher. Its height is only 3896 feet. But it is com- paratively isolated and towers grandly up from the level of the sea al- most unimpeded by foothills, save some on the south and west, where it is somewhat dwarfed. Its symmetry and its grandeur, its fine double sum- mit and conical outline, all make it a mountain among mountains and the natural point of departure for eye and measurement.
From its summit there is spread a view that seems illimitable. The eye ranges over an extent of 400 miles from north to south, and to the east over the whole extent of the Sacramento-San Joaquin basin. Shasta and Lassen Buttes are visible in clear weather to the north, and to the south the vast uplift which culminates in Mt. Whitney. To the west, all . that great tumble of ridges and valleys that make up the Coast Range, and even the streets of San Francisco, through a good glass, and beyond, the Pacific Ocean, are visible-truly a noble prospect. It is estimated that this comprehensive view embraces an area of 40,000 square miles and that of as interesting a country as lies anywhere under the sun and stars. Mount Diablo is worthy of a pilgrimage around the world to see.
Mount Diablo Scenic Boulevard, which winds through the Mount Diablo Estate, was built in 1916 by R. N. Burgess and associates. Its total length is twenty-three miles, in its two branches that run through the Mount Diablo Country Club and to Walnut Creek. The climb rises 3849
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feet, with a seven per cent to eight per cent grade. The features are the Garden of Jungle Gods (giant freak rocks) and Devil's Slide. From the top of Mount Diablo, in favorable weather, can be seen the State's heart north and south, and the entire range of the Sierra Nevadas.
On October 25, 1926, in the presence of a large throng on the sum- mit of Mt. Diablo, Glenn B. Ashcroft of Alameda, president of the So- ciety of Engineers of San Francisco, dedicated the northerly pinnacle to the memory of Colonel Leander Ransome, pioneer engineer, who in 1851 es- tablished that point as the base meridian for all surveys in California.
The Mount Diablo Estate of 10,000 acres belongs to the Mount Diablo Park Club and to Mount Diablo Park, which is open to guests and members. This organization grew out of the Oakwood Park Stock Farm owned by Seth Cook, a retired miner and horseman. He was a royal entertainer and had a race course of his own, with a row of euca- lyptus trees all around the track. It is now owned by the Country Club as a community farm of forty acres, with Diablo the business center of the community.
VALLEYS IN CONTRA COSTA COUNTY
The chief valleys in the county are known as the Alhambra, Pacheco, Ygnacio, Clayton and San Ramon. These actually constitute one valley, however, and are continuous for almost thirty miles, varying in width from one-half mile to fifteen miles. There are smaller separate valleys, known as Stone, Lone Tree, Pinole, Rodeo, Franklin and Briones, all well watered by running streams. In the eastern part of the county begins the great San Joaquin Valley, with an average width in Contra Costa County of twenty miles, and with a beautiful stretch of country sloping from Mount Diablo to the San Joaquin River.
Ygnacio Valley lies at the foot of Mount Diablo on the northwest, and reaches to the Sacramento River and Suisun Bay. Walnut Creek flows through this valley.
Diablo Valley is separated from Ygnacio Valley by Lime Ridge, and extends southeasterly. It contains about fifty square miles of arable land and is drained by a small creek which has its source in the ridge.
Stone Valley is a small valley east of and adjoining San Ramon.
Pacheco Valley lies on the northern side of Mount Diablo and extends to Suisun Bay. It is a central valley of the county and is six miles wide by fifteen miles in length. It merges into Ygnacio Valley and is watered by Walnut Creek. Mount Diablo Creek drains the eastern portion and, ad- joining Walnut Creek, empties into Suisun Bay.
San Ramon Valley extends towards the south and merges with Liver- more Valley in Alameda County. It is about one mile wide and twelve miles long, with Contra Costa hills on one side and on the other the spurs and foothills of Mount Diablo.
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Alhambra Valley lies to the south of Martinez, where it opens up to Carquinez Straits, and is about six miles long and one mile wide. The famous Alhambra Mineral Springs are in this valley.
Franklin Valley, better known as Franklin Canyon, is a spur of Al- hambra Valley and runs back into the Contra Costa hills about three miles. It is one of the show places along the Santa Fe Railroad.
San Pablo Valley, one of the largest in the county, faces San Francisco Bay and contains about 18,000 acres of land.
Briones, Pinole and Rodeo are smaller valleys that extend back into the hills. Deer Creek Valley is in the eastern part of the county.
TASSAJARA VALLEY
This extensive valley lies on the southeastern slopes of Mount Diablo, and is a beautiful region of more or less high ridges and large expanses. It is a land of cattle ranges and dairy farming, although much grain and hay are also grown.
This section is somewhat cut off from the rest of the county, and as a consequence much of the business of the region gravitates to Livermore and Pleasanton, nearby towns in Alameda County. It is a rich country, possessing resources of immense potential value.
This valley was settled by many Irish ranchers and is a grain-raising locality. Abner Pearson was one of the first American settlers. Then came Gillette Brothers in 1851; they raised the first grain in 1852. Mark Elliott, Wilson Coats, and Levi Maxey were also among the pioneers. Philip Mendenhall was a large property owner in the valley, as is also Thomas Carneal. There has been but little advancement made beyond grain-raising, although some fruit is being raised at this writing.
SAN RAMON VALLEY
The largest, the richest in natural resources, and one of the most favored valleys for the country homes of San Franciscans and other city dwellers is the San Ramon. It stretches from the waters of the Sacra- mento River at Suisun Bay to the southern extremity of the county, and ranges in width from fifteen miles in its lower part to a mile or less in some parts of its upper reaches. It possesses every variety of soil, and taken all in all, is considered one of the richest and most beautiful pieces of land in the State.
In point of scenic beauty, it is unsurpassed. On one side is the Contra Costa range, a rare aggregation of beautiful peaks and slopes, grand heights and deep, dark canyons, that present a kaleidoscope of changing loveliness with the procession of the seasons.
On the other side is Mount Diablo and its wonders, bright and glad when the sun shines bright, sombre and forbidding when shrouded with storm' clouds, beautiful always.
San Ramon has many tributary valleys. In the early times San Ramon was a famous cattle country.
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It is a region where horses and other animals thrive well. Some of the fastest and best horses in the country have been raised in this valley -horses that have carried off the biggest money.
But now-a-days fruit orchards, grape vineyards and intensive cultiva- tion are coming to the fore.
Dairy farming, likewise, is an expanding industry and very profitable. People are adding to their herds every day, and prosperity is visible on every hand.
In San Ramon Valley are some of the most beautiful country homes in the West, where art and nature vie with each other to create a charmed environment.
ALHAMBRA VALLEY
Contra Costa County may be called a Jewel Box, containing gems of value, all beautiful, all brilliant, all blessed with perennial virtue, but of different qualities and possessing an endless variety of settings. Among these Alhambra shines with brightest luster, every acre of its length pre- senting a charm to sight and memory.
Alhambra Valley is all the lovelier because it is small. It is only five miles in length, and is nowhere more than a mile wide. The mountains crowd up close on every side. Trees crown their eminences often, and mark the course of their canyons; great oaks dot the landscape. The soil of the bottom lands is the richest loamy mold, and bears bumper crops. The hillsides have lighter, more pliable soils, which for some kinds of vines and trees are unexcelled. El Hambre Creek flows down through the valley.
On a knoll in the lower part of this valley John Muir, the famous na- turalist and lover of the Sierras, made his home; and John Swett, premier educator of the State, also selected this valley for his home.
The famous Alhambra water, which is bottled at Martinez and shipped over the world, comes from copious springs about a mile below the head of the valley. It is piped to the bottling depot at Martinez.
Alhambra is the nearest valley to the city of Martinez, which in fact is built in its mouth. The Santa Fe railway crosses it, a mile or so up, over a viaduct that has been admired for its elegant and substantial construction.
YGNACIO VALLEY
This fertile valley has been aptly styled the Dreamland of California. the soil of this valley, which lies at the northwestern foot of Mount Diablo, is of that peculiarly rich, dark loam which has always been found the very best for fruits of every kind. There are large orchards here of pears, prunes, peaches, almonds, apricots and walnuts which yield unfailing crops. Where the valley has not been transformed into orchard and vine- yard, it is still dotted with the great oaks that beautify so much of the county. Beautiful estates cover the whole area of this valley-the homes, most of them, of wealthy people who spend a portion of the year, at least, away from the distractions of the cities and the cares of business.
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PIONEERS OF CONTRA COSTA COUNTY
NO. 1. ALBERT W. GLASS NO. 2. JOHN KING NO. 3. MILTON LABAREE
NO. 4. WILLIAM MEESE
NO. 5. LEVI MAXEY
NO. 6. EDW. MCCAULEY
NO. 7. SAMUEL RAMAGE
NO. 3. LEE PARKER NO. 9. EDWARD SHUEY NO. 10. ALBERT STONE
NO. 15. DAVID GLASS
NO. 21. GEORGE McCAMLEY
NO. 22. ELISHA C. HARLAN
NO. 11. SAMUEL MORE
NO. 17. NATHANIEL HOWARD
NO. 18. R. O. BALDWIN NO. 19. JAMES BOONE NO. 20. WILLIAM COX
NO. 12. C. G. GOOLD NO. 13. J. P. CHRISMAN NO. 14. MYRON HALL
NO. 16. WILLIAM Z. STONE
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CHAPTER III EARLY COUNTY HISTORY
On December 15, 1849, an act was signed dividing the State into counties. It was passed on February 18, 1850, and confirmed on April 25, 1850.
The original boundary of Contra Costa (Opposite Coast) County was as follows: Beginning at the mouth of Alameda Creek and running northeasterly to the middle of the Bay of San Francisco; thence north or northwest following as near the middle of the bay as possible, to the Straits of San Pablo; thence up the middle of the straits to Suisun Bay and up the middle of said bay to the mouth of the San Joaquin River; thence, following up the middle of said river, to a place known as Pesca- dero or Lower Crossing; thence in a direct line to the northeast corner of Santa Clara County, which is on the summit of the Coast Range, near the source of Alameda Creek; thence down the middle of said creek to its mouth, the place of beginning, including the islands of San Pablo, Core- acas and Tesoro. The county seat to be at Martinez.
On March 25, 1853, an act was passed by the legislature creating Alameda County from the south portion of Contra Costa County, and a part of Santa Clara County.
The present boundary of Contra Costa County was then established, viz. : Beginning at the Bay of San Francisco at the northwest point of Red Rock, being the common corner of Marin, Contra Costa and San Fran- cisco Counties, as established in Section 3950 of the Political Code of the State of California ; thence up the straits and Bay of San Pablo, on the eastern boundary of Marin, to the point of intersection with the line bearing south 261/2 degrees east, about 614 miles from the southwest corner of Napa County as established in Section 3958, Political Code, forming the common corner of Marin, Solano, Sonoma and Contra Costa Counties as established in Section 3955; thence to Carquinez Straits ; thence up said straits and Suisun Bay to the mouth of San Joaquin River ; thence up said river to confluence of the west and main channels thereof, as laid down in Gibbe's map; thence up west channel to a point about ten miles below Moore & Rhodes' ranch, at a bend where said channel, run- ning downward, takes a general course north, the same being on the west line of San Joaquin County and forming the northeast corner of Alameda County and southeast corner of Contra Costa County; thence on the north line of Alameda County, as laid down in Higley's map and estab- lished in Section 3953, to the easterly line of San Francisco City and
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County, as established in Section 3950; thence due northwest along the easterly line of San Francisco, 41/2 miles, more or less, to place of begin- ning. The county seat to be at Martinez.
On May 13, 1850, by order of County Judge E. M. Warmcastle, the court of sessions convened at Martinez. There were present Judge Warm- castle; Absolom Peak and Edward G. Guest, associate justices; T. A. Brown, county clerk, and N. Jones, sheriff. It was ordered that there be assessed and collected for ordinary county expenditure from the real and personal property taxable by law to the amount of twenty-five cents on each $100; and that in the same manner a like sum should be levied for constructing public buildings for use of the county. The county clerk was ordered to procure a suitable building for location of the court house and clerk's office, to fit up same, and supply all necessary books and stationery. A State poll tax of $2.50 was made collectible from those whom the law required to pay it. On June 3, the county clerk was ordered to receive sealed proposals for the erection of a jail. On July 20, certain accounts for labor performed on temporary buildings were allowed. A sum not to ex- ceed $50 was also allowed to procure an official seal.
On August 17 the following licenses were levied: To vend goods, wares, merchandise, with a capital of $5000 or less, $20 per year. To vend spirituous, malt and fermented liquors in less quantities than one pint, $50 per year.
An application was made and a license granted Oliver C. Coffin to establish a ferry between Martinez and Benicia upon his filing a $2000 bond. Fares limited by the court: Each man, $1; each man and horse, $2.50; each single horse or mule, $2; each wagon, $5; each carriage, $4; each head of sheep or hogs, etc., 50 cents. -
On May 11, 1852, the court of sessions ordered one-half of the reve- nue collected for county purposes, fixed for the year at fifty cents on $100, should be set apart as a public building fund; also a call for bids to build a court house in court house square, Martinez. The latter was recalled by the supervisors on August 10.
On May 3, a board of supervisors was created for the county; an election was held on June 14, 1852, and William Patten, S. H. Robinson, Victor Castro, R. Farrelly, and T. J. Keefer were elected. Patten was chosen chairman. On July 5 committees were duly appointed and matters arranged for the full organization of the board, who at once assumed the reins of civil government. Their earliest order was the laying out of a road between Oakland and San Pablo.
In 1854, L. R. Townsend submitted plans; and H. J. Childers & C. Chipman a bid to build a court house for $27,000, which was accepted. The site chosen was on a hill fronting the bay, Lot 4, Block 2, Martinez.
On March 20, 1855, the county clerk, assessor and surveyor divided the county into three districts. On April 30 an election was called to choose a supervisor for each district. John H. Livingston was elected in the first district; L. E. Morgan in No. 2; and W. R. Bishop, in No. 3.
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For the first fiscal year, 1850-1851, the assessed valuation of land within the boundaries of the county, as at present defined, was $408,756; value of improvements, $10,225; personal property, $237,266; total, $656,247. In 1875-1876 the assessed valuation of land had increased to $4,593,910; improvements, $522,973; personal property, $1,820,480. Value of town lots, $139,426 ; improvements, $211,448. Total valuation of property, $7,368,312.
In 1853, according to the assessor's report, there were 40,000 apple, 20,000 peach, 10,000 pear, 7000 plum, 4200 cherry, 1500 quince, 1250 apricot, 1000 fig, 3500 mulberry, 1000 almond, 500 prune, 1000 orange, 50 lemon and 100 olive trees in the county ; and there were 600,000 grape vines, with a sprinkling of almost every other kind of fruit grown in the middle zone.
SPANISH FAMILIES AND EARLY LAND CLAIMS
In 1852 there were living in Contra Costa County the following Span- ish families: Alvarado, Castro, Sepulveda, Estudillo, Moraga, Briones, Martinez, Sunol, Soto, Peralta, Altemerano, Amador, Miranda, Berry- essa, Pacheco, Boca, Higuero, Alviso and Naviaga.
The following is a list of land claims in Contra Costa County :
Elam Brown for Alcalanes, 1 square league, granted August 1, 1834, by José Figueroa to C. Valencia. Claim filed February 2, 1852 ; confirmed February 14, 1853; appeal dismissed November 26, 1856. 3,328.95 acres, patented.
Salvio Pacheco for Monte del Diablo, granted March 30, 1844, by José Figueroa to S. Pacheco. Claim filed February 27, 1852, confirmed by district court January 14, 1856; appeal dismissed November 24, 1856. 17,921.54 acres ; patented.
Robert Livermore, claimant for Cañada de los Vaqueros, granted Feb- ruary 29, 1844, by Manuel Micheltorena to Francisco Alviso et al. Claim filed February 27, 1852; confirmed by committee September 4, 1855 ; by district court December 28, 1857; appeal dismissed December 28, 1857.
Joseph Swanson, administrator of the estate of William Welch, for Las Juntas, 3 square leagues, 13,324.29 acres ; granted February 9, 1844, by Manuel Micheltorena to William Welch. Claim filed March 23, 1852; confirmed by committee December 20, 1853 ; dismissed November 3, 1857.
Heirs of Juan Sanchez de Pacheco for Arroyo de Las Nueces y Bol- bones, granted July 11, 1834, by José Figueroa to Juan Sanchez de Pa- checo. Claim filed April 6, 1852; confirmed by committee April 11, 1853; by district court December 22, 1856. Decision of United States Supreme Court as to right to appeal in 20 Howard, 261. Decree of district court affirmed by U. S. Supreme Court in 22 Howard, 225. 17,734.52 acres.
Rafaela Soto de Pacheco et al. for San Ramon, granted June 10. 1833, by José Figueroa. Claim filed April 13, 1852; rejected by com- mittee November 22, 1853 ; confirmed by district court February 8, 1858.
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Teodora Soto for Cañada del Hambre and Las Bolsas del Hambre, granted May 18, 1842, by Juan B. Alvarado to Teodora Soto. Claim filed April 29, 1852; confirmed by committee May 15, 1855; by district court April 16, 1857; appeal dismissed August 11, 1857. Two square leagues, 13,312.70 acres.
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