USA > California > Humboldt County > History of Humboldt County, California, with biographical sketches of the leading men and women of the county who have been identified with its growth and development from the early days to the present > Part 18
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"The Chamber now has under consideration the matter of issuing a new pamphlet, or rather a series of separate pamphlets, upon its various industries, which may all be finally combined to make up one large pamphlet on Humboldt county. But the actual work along this line has not yet been begun, although it soon must be.
"In the way of entertaining distinguished visitors from abroad, the Chamber has always filled an important place and need. Space cannot be spared to enumerate them all, but, leaving out ancient history, mention may be made of the visits here of the principal officers of the Santa Fe Railway Company in 1905,
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and of the Promotion Committee later in the same year. And Government officials visiting here in the performance of their duties have always been well looked after by committees from the Chamber.
"Statistics of the exports from the county have always been kept up by the Chamber, and its records along this line go back to 1889. Ever since improve- ment work began on the bar, an annual synopsis of our trade has been furnished to the United States engineers in charge of this district, and has become a part of the engineers' reports, and of the archives of the Government.
"During the twenty-five years of its existence,the Humboldt Chamber of Commerce has had its periods of depression and inactivity, its times of strenu- ous action and accomplishment. It has been criticized by members and non- members because it has failed to do this, and because it has done that. But the majority of its critics, both without and within its ranks, fail to realize that such a public organization is at its best, a compromise ; that it is composed of a small percentage of the general community, and that its membership is seldom united in opinion upon any one particular matter of method of action.
"That in the main it has fairly represented the sentiment of the people of Humboldt upon such matters as have come before it, cannot be denied ; and that its work has in general been vastly beneficial to this community, is equally impossible of denial. It has room in its ranks for many more members; it is entitled to all the support that can be accorded it; and the greater its support, the more it can accomplish for the newer Humboldt."
It is with much satisfaction that this history can record the fact that the Humboldt Chamber of Commerce has always had a reputation for accuracy. Mr. Kellogg is a man of sterling character and he would rather understate than ex- aggerate regarding the resources of Humboldt county. IIe and the secretary of the promotion committee, which is a branch of the Chamber of Commerce, agree that the county does not need empty-handed men and women, and that nobody should visit any part of the State until he has made a thorough investiga- tion of its resources and opportunities. It is contrary to the principles of the Chamber and of the promotion committee to induce anybody to leap in the dark.
The following will give an idea of some of the work done by the Chamber of Commerce in whole or in part, in behalf of the entire county, since its organiza- tion in 1891 :
"Had the first jetty construction project placed on the continuing contract list, insuring appropriations aggregating $1,500,000.
"Secured the appropriations for the second jetty project, and its being placed under continuous contract, the full appropriation to be $1,037,400.
"Secured dredging appropriations as follows: First appropriation, $80,000; second appropriation, $50,000 ; third appropriation, $83,000; fourth appropriation, $15,000. Total, $228,000.
"Secured an appropriation for the construction of a coal shed at the light house reservation, which has not yet been constructed, $5,000.
"Secured the establishment of the light vessel at Blount's Reef.
"Secured the establishment of the Government wireless station at Table Bluff.
"Secured the establishment of the light house at Point Gorda, at a cost of $80,000.
"Secured the establishment of range lights on the bay channels and on the south jetty.
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"Secured the connection by telephone of the life saving station on the north spit with Eureka.
"Secured the connection by telegraph of the Wireless Station at Table Bluff with Eureka.
"Secured the construction of the Carnegie Library, and raised all the funds for that purpose, amounting to: For site, $5,700.00; for building, $26,100.88. Total, $31,800.88.
"Secured the construction of the Federal Building, at a cost of: For site, $17,434.37 ; for cornerstone laying. $82.00; for building, $130,000.00. Total, $147,516.37.
"Aided in directing the sentiment that caused the building of the City Hall.
"Was instrumental in securing the building of the woolen mill plant.
"Was instrumental in securing the building of the Harris road.
"Was instrumental in securing the building of the Klamath road.
"Was instrumental in securing the free delivery of mail by carrier.
"Was instrumental in securing various improvements in the mail service at various places throughout the county.
"Cared for the sufferers by the wreck of the 'Walla Walla.'
"Cared for the sufferers by the wreck of the 'Columbia.'
"Took charge of the Relief Fund for the sufferers by the San Francisco earthquake and fire.
"Entertained visiting Senators, Congressmen, Governors, San Francisco Promotion Committee, and various other distinguished persons and bodies.
"Made a County Exhibit at the Sacramento State Fair.
"Made a County Exhibit at the Midwinter Fair at San Francisco.
"Made a County Exhibit at the Epworth League National meeting at San Francisco.
"Made a partial exhibit at the Lewis and Clark Fair at Portland.
"Maintained an incomplete exhibit at the rooms of the State Board of Trade for the last ten or twelve years.
"Issued and distributed 16,000 copies of "In the Redwood's Realm."
"Issued and distributed 77,000 copies of "Humboldt County Pamphlet."
"Issued and distributed 23,000 copies of "Eureka Census Folders."
"Issued and distributed 20,000 copies of "Climate Folders."
136,000
"Distributed over 35,000 copies of Souvenirs, Sunset Pamphlets, Promotion Folders, Special Editions of Newspapers and miscellaneous advertising matter.
"Secured terminal rates for Humboldt lumber and shingles shipped to the East by rail.
"Was instrumental in securing the re-organization of the city of Eureka under a special charter.
"Aided in directing the sentiment that compelled the building of the bridge over Eel river at Weott."
During the year 1914, in spite of general dullness, Humboldt county has had its share of prosperity. It is well known that the banks of the county have always contained a large amount of money deposited by the people, but there has never been anything like a boom or false growth in the county.
A careful examination of general business conditions of the year 1914 con- firms the opinion that prosperity has been general. An increased volume of trade
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has been reported by merchants throughout the county. One exception might be made to the statement of general prosperity. Secretary Kellogg wisely said : "I cannot close my eyes to the fact that the leading business industry of Hum- boldt, lumbering, has not shared in the advance that has appeared general in other lines. For in this industry not only have the demand and production both fallen off, but prices have not been satisfactory; and it is certain that when the figures for the year have been made up, the totals of shipments and of valua- tion will both show a considerable decrease from the record figures of 1912. So far as I am able to judge, the principal reasons for these untoward conditions in this trade are the unfavorable weather experienced last winter and spring in southern and central California, with the consequent light crops tending to dis- courage country building ; and the increasing competition from the more cheaply produced fir and pine lumber of the Northwest. The first of these reasons-that of reduced crop production in the market land to the south of us-is transitory. For already has the present winter season progressed far enough to justify the prediction of full crops in the central and southern portions of the State, with a consequent increased demand for the lumber of Humboldt. As to the second reason-the increasing competition of cheaper lumber than is redwood-that will be always with us, or at least until the full commercial opening of the Panama Canal makes possible the increasing markets that are hoped for, and thus removes the sting from the competition of cheaper woods. I am firm in the opinion that when the country is made available to our lumber manufacturers through the opening of the 'big ditch' of Panama, ample and sufficient markets will be opened to redwood lumber to insure profitable returns therefrom. For redwood is a timber like unto itself only; its qualities give it a desirability for many purposes that cannot be fulfilled by any other wood; and the passing years cannot fail to see the demand for its increase, especially as additional markets are opened to it through improved transportation."
It should be said that the foreign trade has always been the great feature of the lumber business. The number of clearances of vessels averages about forty each year. and the average cargo carried by each vessel approximates a million and a half feet, the average value of the cargo being something more than $32,000.
August 16, 1913, stands out in the history of lumber shipments as the red- letter day. At that time the steamer Algoa, 4,897 net tons, cleared from the port with the largest cargo ever loaded in Humboldt hay. She carried 2,748,275 feet of lumber, valued at $83,670. The fact of this great load and the ease with which it was carried from Eureka led to much favorable comment in the news- papers of San Francisco and Oakland. The British steamer Iran, which took a great load from the port of Eureka in 1911, was almost as large as the Algoa.
During the last few years a steady improvement has gone on in the condition under which dairying products are produced. About 1912 the advantages of cleanliness and sanitary precautions became pretty well understood, and a move- ment to obtain the advantages of scientific management was fostered by the dairy association, the Farm Bureau, the newspapers, and the creameries of the county. Humboldt dairymen were also urged to greater precaution by the dairy inspector engaged with the State Dairying Bureau.
Humboldt county long occupied the place of first in dairy productions, but Stanislaus several years ago took the palm from her.
In noting the progress of material enterprises in Humboldt county during the last few years the historian cannot omit to mention the importance of the
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construction work on the south jetty of the bar. By January, 1913, almost 3,000 feet of rock work had been completed on the seaside of the spit, leaving about 2,400 feet to be completed. During the year 1913 almost 1,000 feet were finished, which left about 700 feet to be built. As the work progresses toward the sea the amount of rock required to bring the jetty up to its level increases, for which reason the work progresses more slowly. It requires about two hundred fifty tons of . rock to carry the work one foot toward the sea.
One of the problems now bothering the Humboldt Chamber of Commerce and the public at large concerns appropriations for the completion of the south jetty and for carrying on the work to the north. It is regrettable that a number of members of Congress are stubbornly opposing the appropriation of any further money for the improvement of Humboldt bar. The Chamber of Commerce is doing a heroic work to see that this attitude does not become the prevailing opinion in Congress.
One of the crying needs of the times is a dredger to clear out the channel of the bay and render effective aid during the storms of winter in the vicinity of the bar itself. Colonel Rees has been and is strongly of the opinion that the harbor should be deepened until it will take ships which draw almost thirty feet of water. By deepening and widening the present channel in accordance with move- ments now under way the shipping industry will be greatly increased.
There are a number of thriving towns in the county, each being supported by some industry peculiar to the immediate surroundings. No history of the county would be complete without some mention of these towns and their activity.
Next to Eureka, Arcata is undoubtedly the most important town in the county. As heretofore said, the establishing of a State normal school there in 1914 gave the town a wonderful impetus. It already had seven churches, three grammar schools, a union high school, a public library well stocked with books, a city hall, a Spanish plaza, a delightful park, and many lodges of all the leading orders-all these are features of the social, intellectual and municipal life of the place.
The city is exceptionally well lighted by electricity, its streets are macadamized and cleanly kept, the water system is good, the sewage and drainage scientific, the only municipal debt, now much reduced, being one incurred to perfect this system. Arcata is served with three lines of railroad. One of these, the Northwestern Pacific Railroad, is destined to give direct communication to San Francisco and the West. With its early completion Arcata's Chamber of Commerce expects to see a phenomenal development in many lines.
At present the city has a large tannery, a large cooperage manufactory and a shingle mill as its main local industries-not to mention the numerous creameries nearby, all doing a profitable and ever-increasing business-but by the time the railroad is completed the city looks forward to the establishment of many new industries.
Ferndale is the third city in size in the county, having a population of more than 1,000. Outside of the incorporated limits are many additional residents, the merchants supplying between 1,500 and 2,000 people. It is twenty miles south of Eureka, within three miles of the ocean and the same distance south of Eel river. It is three miles from the railway, auto stages connecting with all trains.
Dairying and allied interests support the town. Hundreds of level and fertile acres surround it on three sides. Eight thousand dairy cattle browse on this land, turning the abundant feed into butter fat which has given Humboldt the
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name of the premier butter county in the State. In North Ferndale is located a dry milk plant, one of three in the United States. In connection is a large creamery, and other creameries are located adjacent to the town. The pay roll for these creameries for the year is $800,000.
There are many other enterprises, such as moulding mills and iron works. There are two good hotels, a weekly newspaper, two banks, several large general merchandise stores. druggists, men's furnishings, shoe stores, millinery, confec- tioneries, livery stable, garages, a motion picture theater and other forms of amusement.
The town is governed by a mayor and council. Saloons are licensed, but run under strict regulation. Modern comforts, such as electric lights, telephones, water and sewer systems, are provided. There is an efficient fire department. Grammar and high schools contain all grades, and the latter an agricultural course. A Carnegie library is maintained.
There are seven churches maintained in Ferndale: Methodist, Congrega- tional, Catholic, Danish Lutheran, German Lutheran, Episcopal and Adventist. The predominating class of residents are Danish, Swedish and Italian-Swiss. There are thirty secret societies in Ferndale, all of the usual fraternities being represented.
Adjacent to the town is Salt river, emptying into Eel river near the latter's mouth. In season salmon, steelhead and salmon trout abound in those streams, providing employment for commercial fishermen and sport for rod and reel fisher- men. A short distance from town is located a salmon cannery.
Back of the town is a rich, gradually developing country whose trade goes to Ferndale. On the coast oil indications are being prospected. The productivity of the soil is due largely to continuous high fogs which provide needed moisture the year 'round. Land sells on an average of $400 per acre, though exceptionally well located tracts sell at $500 and even $600 per acre.
Fortuna is located twenty miles south of Eureka on the Northwestern Pacific Railroad, Eel river, the main county road and the projected state highway. It is the fourth largest town in the county. The last census enumerates 883 within the incorporated limits. Outside are 300 to 500 other residents served by the merchants.
Immediately surrounding the town are fertile bottom lands with low lying, heavily timbered hills forming a background. The lowlands are used for grain- raising, dairying, truck gardening, and other raising of cereals and small fruits. Redwood growing on the hills will supply timber for several decades for the two milis which help to support the town, one within the city limits, the other at Newburg at the outskirts of the town.
During certain seasons of the year Eel river abounds with king salmon, steelheads, and salmon trout, also eels. Commercial fishermen annually take out thousands of dollars' worth of the first two named and the steelhead and salmon trout afford the finest sport known for rod fishermen.
Fortuna maintains grammar and high schools, containing all grades, a free library, and Christian, Methodist, Catholic and Christian Science churches. Prac- tically all of the fraternal orders are represented with lodges. There are several active social clubs and the usual church societies. There is a Men's club and a boat club.
The town is governed by a city council of five. There is an efficient fire department with modern equipment. A public water system and several private
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companies furnish spring water, providing an abundance of pure water and ample fire protection. The Fortuna Board of Trade is an active organization and a member of the Federated Commercial bodies.
Fortuna has a good hotel, a bakery, a restaurant, four general merchandise stores, two jewelry stores, drug, hardware, furniture, confectionery, men's fur- nishings, ladies' furnishings, harness and vehicle stores, millinery, butcher, barber and blacksmith shops, stables and garages, two weekly newspapers, a bank, laundry, real estate offices and an undertaking establishment. There is a public hall and a motion picture theater. The Humboldt Beacon and the Fortuna Ad- vance are the papers.
The town owns a fine five-acre park. In 1912 the residents by a large ma- jority voted "dry." Both before and since the election the town has grown steadily, many residences and business houses being erected. The people are law- abiding, optimistic, healthy, sociable, and welcome newcomers.
Fields Landing or South Bay is but six miles south of Eureka. Its location on the bay shore and the Northwestern Pacific Railway makes it a great vantage point. It is next to Eureka so far as shipping is concerned. The Pacific Lumber Company and the Eel River Valley Lumber Company have extensive wharves there, and millions of feet of redwood are shipped annually, much of it to Australia. The railway maintains its shops at South Bay and many men are employed there. The lumber and shipping industries also employ many men. There is a good hotel, several stores and a good school.
Loleta is thirteen miles south of Eureka on the Northwestern Pacific Rail- way and has a population of about 500. It is surrounded by rich dairying land which supports many hundreds of head of cattle, this industry being the main support of the town. Libby, McNeill & Libby have a large milk condensing plant there and are building a dry milk plant in connection. There is one other creamery and a number of skimming stations are maintained. During the fall months the large fish buyers from San Francisco congregate in Loleta and annually the sum of $50,000 is paid out for the salmon catch from Eel river, near by. The town has good schools, water supply, and a sewer system. There is a hotel, a bank, some general merchandise stores and the usual amount of small business enterprises, churches and fraternal societies. Loleta is in no- license territory. Its citizens are prosperous and law abiding.
Rohnerville is twenty miles south of Eureka and two miles from Fortuna. It is the oldest town in the southern part of the county. In early days it was the end of the road and settlers outfitted there to pack into the hills of Humboldt andi Trinity. Its two general merchandise stores still furnish supplies to many ranchers there. The town is surrounded with rich prairie land which is very productive and valued highly by its owners. Hay is a big crop and garden truck, berries and orchard fruits help to support the town. Rohnerville has good schools, a teachers' preparatory school, churches, secret societies, numerous small busi- ness enterprises, and electric light and telephone service. It has a good water supply and a population of about 500.
Trinidad, the oldest town in California but one, is a picturesque village of 250 population. It is twenty-eight miles from Eureka, to the north, being a spot of rugged sea-cliffs and magnificent marine view. It was at one time the post where Captain Grant, afterwards the famous general and president, was sta- tioned. In addition to these facts, Bret Harte wrote his first newspaper story there-a description of an Indian war that took place where the town now stands.
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It has two general stores, two hotels, a good school, a beautiful city park, and other interesting features of community life. A new school building, to cost $8,000, is now among the certainties of the near future. There are two trains daily to and from Eureka, while an auto stage connects the town with Crescent City.
Hydesville is an inland town twenty-five miles southeast of Eureka. Located on a high plateau, it is in the midst of the finest berry land in the county and thousands of boxes of strawberries are harvested annually. Dairying is conducted on a small scale and the town supports a cheese factory. General ranching is also followed to some extent. There are schools, churches and secret societies. The population numbers several hundreds.
Alton is located twenty-one miles south of Eureka at the junction of the Northwestern Pacific Railway with the branch line running to Carlotta. It has a population of about 500, which is supported by the rich ranch lands surround- ing the town. The town has a fine water supply, schools and a number of secret societies. There is a good hotel, a large general merchandise store and a number of small enterprises. A number of fine orchards lie adjacent to the town. Gen- eral ranching, fruit raising and dairying are the principal industries.
Metropolitan is a lumber town twenty-three miles south of Eureka, on the Northern Pacific Railway. The Metropolitan Lumber Company operates a miill there and this supports the town. Adjacent logged-off and open lands are used for ranching. School facilities are provided and there are several small stores. The population is nominal.
Rio Dell is twenty-five miles south of Enreka on the opposite side of the river from the railroad. It has a small population. The town is surrounded by rich land producing grain crops, orchard fruits, and garden truck. It is on the main road passing through the county. There are a hotel and a number of stores, also a public hall. Good schools are provided.
Scotia is twenty-eight miles south of Eureka on the Northwestern Pacific Railway and has a resident population of several hundred and a very large transient population, owing to its principal industry, lumbering. The mills of the Pacific Lumber Company are located at Scotia and this company owns the entire town and conducts all of the business enterprises. There are two big mills and the annual lumber cut is enormous. Many hundreds of men are employed in the woods, camps and mills of the company. The company maintains cottages for its employes, a school and a large general hospital. A church is supported, there are a number of fraternal societies, and a men's club having a large membership is encouraged by the company. Surrounding lands that have been logged off are being sold and cleared and are very productive.
Shively is located thirty-eight miles south of Eureka on the Northwestern Pacific Railway, and has a population of about 300. Logged-off lands surround the town and these are being cleared and planted to orchards and garden truck. There are a number of small Italian hotels and two others. There are a general merchandise store and several smaller stores.
Fepperwood is a small settlement about thirty-five miles south of Eureka and on the opposite side of the river from Shively. Surrounding it is extremely rich bottom land and here are raised great crops of garden truck, particularly tomatoes. There is a number of stores and school facilities are provided. Near the town is located the Laurel mill, which is employed in converting a large grove of that timber into commercial lumber.
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