USA > California > Humboldt County > History of Humboldt County, California, with biographical sketches of the leading men and women of the county who have been identified with its growth and development from the early days to the present > Part 5
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Our camp was near the little spring, about two hundred yards from the east side of the Plaza, towards the woods. I have seen some of the old tent pins, still remaining there, within the last year (1872).
As soon as we had unpacked some of the party started in search of game, and soon came across a fine band of elk, a little north of our camp, about where the cemetery now is, and fired several shots, wounding two or three, but they succeeded in reaching the thicket in the edge of the redwoods, and dark setting in they could not be found. We therefore did not get any supper that night. The next morning, early, some went in search of the elk and found one of them in the brush, dead, and brought it to camp.
The next morning, December 25th, we roasted the elk's head in the ashes and this constituted our Christmas feast. This was my first Christmas in Cali- fornia, and, having been reduced so often to the point of starvation, we enjoyed this simple fare, yet, you may rest assured, it was not that "Merry Christmas" I had been accustomed to in Kentucky with the "old folks at home." This day we moved down to the point of high prairie, near the mouth of Freshwater slough at the east side of the bay, and there camped.
The next day we made our way through the woods, following an indistinct Indian trail, back of where the town (now city) of Eureka is situated, and came out at the open space in the rear of where Bucksport now stands, which place derives its name from one of our party. David A. Buck. We pitched our camp near the bluff, on the top of which is at present Fort Humboldt.
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The next day we followed down the bay, crossing Elk river, to Humboldt Point. Here we were visited by the chief of the tribe of Indians in the vicinity of the bay, who was an elderly and a very dignified and intelligent Indian. He appeared friendly and seemed disposed to afford us every means of comfort in his power. He supplied us with a quantity of clams, upon which we feasted sumptuously. The evening we arrived here some of the party went out on the slope of prairie to the east of our camp and killed an elk, and while there taking care of it we sent a note over to them and received one in return, by this chief, who would not allow any other Indian to carry it, but insisted upon being the bearer himself. He seemed anxious to arrive at the secret of this means of communication, and would watch to see what effect the piece of written paper would have on the one to whom he delivered it. This old man's name we learned was Ki-we-lat-tah. He is still (1872) living on the bay, and has always been known as a quiet and friendly Indian.
It had been our intention at the outset, if we succeeded in discovering the bay, and provided the surrounding country was adapted to agricultural pur- poses, and was sufficiently extensive, to locate claims for ourselves, and lay out a town, but the deplorable condition in which we now found ourselves, reduced in strength, health impaired, our ammunition nearly exhausted-upon which we were entirely dependent, as well for the little food we could obtain as for our defense and protection-and destitute of either farming or mechanical implements, induced us to abandon such intention, at least for the present, and use all possible dispatch in making our way to the settlements.
Accordingly, having remained at this camping place one day, we turned our faces toward the south. Our progress was extremely slow, as the rain was falling almost incessantly, rendering travel difficult and fatiguing.
The third day after leaving the bay we reached another river, which arrested our advance in that direction. Upon approaching this river we came suddenly upon two very old Indians, who at seeing us fell to the ground as if they had been shot. We dismounted and made them get up, giving them to understand that we were their friends; but it was with difficulty that we succeeded in quiet- ing their fears. They were loaded with eels, which they informed us they ob- tained from the river. Our appetites being in just such a condition that anything, not absolutely poisonous, on which a meal could be made, would be palatable, with- out asking many questions, we helped ourselves to nearly the whole of their load. Near where we met these Indians, we got them, with their canoes, to set us across the river, which was at this time a large stream, the water being high. We swam our animals as usual. The point where we crossed was just below the junction of Van Duzen's fork, which latter stream takes its name from one of our party. Here we remained two days, during which time we lived upon eels obtained from the Indians. In exchange for these we gave them some beads and some small pieces of iron. They seemed to value these pieces of iron more highly than anything else we had to dispose of. I took an old frying pan, that had been rendered comparatively useless, having lost its handle and being otherwise con- siderably damaged, and broke it into small strips. With these I kept the com- pany supplied with eels during our stay, often obtaining as many as three dozen for one piece. We gave to this stream the name of Eel river.
At this camp a controversy arose among us in relation to the course now to be pursued. Some contended that we should follow the coast down to San Francisco. Others again, urged as the shortest and most advantageous route
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to proceed up this river as far as its course seemed to suit, and then leave it and strike southerly for the nearest settlement.
Neither party seemed inclined to yield to the other. Not all the arguments that the most peaceably disposed members of the company could adduce could quell the storm that was gathering. Harsh words passed, and threats were inter- changed. As all prospects of a reconciliation had been abandoned, Seabring, Buck, Wilson and myself resolved to continue on our journey together, over the route we had advocated. Accordingly we separated, and although the rain was falling in torrents, we left the camp.
As before stated, our intention was to continue along the river, believing that by so doing our progress would be more rapid, and that the chances for obtaining food would be better. In this, however, we were sadly disappointed, for as we advanced, the country became more and more uneven, and at last moun- tainous. The spurs from the mountains extending down to the river's edge, became so abrupt and the ravines between so deep, as to render it extremely difficult to get our animals over them. We toiled along, however, until the third day when we determined to leave the river. Our hope was to find some moun- tain ridge leading in a southeasterly direction-that being about the course we desired to take-and with this view we ascended the mountain.
The day after we left the river it commenced snowing, which, in a short time, so completely obliterated all there was of a trail, and shut from our view every land mark that could guide us in our course, that we were compelled to camp. Our situation now was indeed deplorable. At no time before liad we been so completely destitute, and never had our prospects been so gloomy and dis- heartening. Fast being hemmed in with snow, without food either for ourselves or our animals, it seemed to us inevitable that our only alternative was to apply to that resource which we had with so much trouble and care preserved and kept with us-namely, our mules. We had for some time passed thought that a misfortune like that which now seemed imminent, might overtake us, and there- fore looked upon them as serving us in additional capacity of food, when neces- sity might compel us to resort to them.
While the snow was yet not too deep, the animals, with their feet, pawed the grass bare, and thus obtained all there was to eat. We, too, were fortunate enough to kill a small deer. Five days elapsed before we were able to move from this camping place, and then not in the direction we desired, for the great quantity of snow that had fallen presented an impassable barrier to our progress, conse- quently we were compelled to return to the river.
The small supply which the deer afforded us was not more than sufficient to soothe the hunger pains with which we had, with little interruption, been suffer- ing ; and by the time we had extricated ourselves from our unfortunate situation in the snow, nothing remained of the deer but the skin.
We continued our course up the river as best we could, sometimes aided by an Indian or elk trail, at others literally cutting our way along. Upon passing from the forest into a small opening, we came suddenly upon five grizzly bears. Wilson and myself immediately went in pursuit of them, but unfortunately met with no further success than to wound one of them severely. The day following this, while traveling over a piece of mountain prairie, and passing a small ravine or gulch, we espied a group of no less than eight more of these animals. Although exhausted from fatigue, and so reduced in strength that we were scarcely able to drag ourselves along, yet we determined to attack these grim customers.
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For several days all that we had or could obtain to subsist upon was the deer- skin which we had saved, and a few buckeyes. The former we cut up and boiled in water, and afterward drank the water and chewed the hide.
Wilson, Seabring and myself prepared for the conflict, which it was alto- gether probable we would have, before the matter ended, and advanced toward them. While yet a long distance from them Seabring sought shelter for him- self by climbing a tree, not wishing to hazard the chances of a hand to hand con- test with bruin. Wilson and myself advanced until within about one hundred yards of the nearest of them when a consultation was again held in relation to the mode of making the attack.
It was arranged that I should approach as near as possible and fire, then make the best of my way to some tree for safety. The latter part of the arrange- ment I did not assent to, for one very good reason-I was so completely pros- trated from exposure and starvation that had I the will to run, my limbs would scarcely have been able to execute their functions. We continued to approach our antagonists until within about fifty paces, when I leveled my rifle at the one nearest me, and after careful aim, fired. The shot was, to all appearances, a fatal one, for the huge monster fell, biting and tearing the earth with all the fury of one struggling in death. As soon as I had fired, Wilson said to me, in a low tone of voice, "Run! run!" Instead, however, of yielding to his advice, I immediately commenced reloading my rifle. Wilson now discharged his gun at another with equal success.
When I had fired, five of the bears started up the mountain. Two now lay upon the ground before us, and a third yet remained, deliberately sitting back upon her haunches and evidently determined not to yield the ground without a contest, looking first upon her fallen companions and then upon us.
Wilson now thought it about time to retreat, and accordingly made the best of his way to a tree. Unfortunately for me, I could not get the ball down upon the powder, and in this predicament, so soon as Wilson started to run, the bear came dashing at me with fury. I succeeded, however, in getting beyond her reach in a small buckeye tree. I now made another effort to force the ball down my rifle but with no better success than at first, and was therefore compelled to use it to beat the bear off as she attacked the tree, for the purpose of breaking it down or shaking me out of it. She kept me busy at this for two or three minutes, when to my astonishment the bear I had shot down, having recovered sufficiently from the effects of the wound, came bounding toward me with all the violence and ferocity that agony and revenge could engender. No blow that I could inflict upon the head of the maddened monster with my gun could resist or even check her.
The first spring she made upon the tree broke it down. I had the good fortune to gain my feet before they could get hold of me, and ran down the mountain in the direction of a small tree, standing about thirty yards distant. Every jump I made I thought must be my last, as I could distinctly feel the breath of the wounded bear as she grabbed at my heels. I kept clear of her while running, but the race was a short one. On reaching the tree, or rather bush, I seized hold of the trunk of it and swung my body around so as to afford the bear room to pass me, which she did, and went headlong down the hill some twenty paces before she could turn back. I exerted all my energies to climb the tree, but before I could get six feet from the ground, the hindermost bear caught me by the right ankle and dragged me down again. By this time the wounded bear
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had returned, and, as I fell, grabbed at my face. I, however, dodged, and she caught me by the left shoulder. The moments that followed were the most critical and perilous of my life. Here, then, thought I, was the end of all things to me! That I must perish-be mangled and torn to pieces-seemed inevitable. During all the time I was thus situated, my presence of mind did not forsake me.
Immediately after the second bear had caught me by the shoulder, the other still having hold of my ankle, the two pulled against each other as if to draw me to pieces ; but my clothes and their grip giving way occasionally, saved me. In this way they continued until they had stripped me of my clothes, except a part of my coat and shirt, dislocated my hip, and inflicted many flesh wounds-none of the latter, however, being very serious. They seemed unwilling to take hold of my flesh, for, after they had divested me of my clothes, they both left me- one going away entirely, and the other (the wounded bear) walking slowly up the hill, about one hundred yards from me, and there deliberately seated herself and fastened her gaze upon me as I lay upon the ground perfectly still. After several minutes I ventured to move, which, I suppose, she must have seen, for the first motion brought her pell mell upon me again, roaring at every jump as loudi as she could roar. At this moment, I must confess, my presence of mind nearly forsook me. I knew that if she again attacked or took hold of me it must be upon my naked flesh. No sooner had she reached me than she placed her nose violently against my side, and then raised her head and gave vent to two of the most frightful, hideous and unearthly yells that were ever heard by mortal man. I remained perfectly quiet, hoping that by so doing she would leave me, and in this hope I was not disappointed, for after standing over me a short time she again walked away. I now thought she had left for good, and determined to place myself, if possible, beyond her reach, should she, however, return again.
Up to this time I was unconscious of the extent of the injury I had received ; that an accident had befallen my leg I was well aware, but not until I attempted to get up was my true situation manifest to me. I then found that I could not use my right leg, and supposed it was broken.
Turning to look about me, to assure myself that my enemy had retired, imagine my surprise at seeing her again not more than one hundred yards distant, sitting back upon her haunches and her eyes glaring full at me. With my leg in the condition I have related, I dragged myself to the buckeye bush, from which I had been pulled down by the bear, and after much difficulty suc- ceeded in climbing up about eight feet. So soon as Wilson had discovered me up the tree, he left his tree and came to me. The bear seeing him, came bounding toward us with great ferocity. Wilson cried. "What in the name of God shall I do?" I replied that he could come up the limb of the adjoining tree, and he was barely able to get beyond reach, before she arrived. She deliberately seated herself immediately beneath us, and kept her eyes steadily upon us, and as either one or the other of us happened to move, she would utter an angry growl. I observed Wilson present his rifle at her, and not shooting immediately, I said : "Shoot her-for God's sake, shoot her-for she is the beast that did me all the injury I have received !" He watched her eyes closely for a moment with his aim still fixed upon her, and when I again repeated my request for him to shoot, he replied : "No, sir ; let her go-let her go, if she will."
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After having detained us in this situation for a few minutes, she went away, and disappeared altogether, much to our joy and relief-thereby giving me an opportunity to get down from the tree.
Now that all fear of further interruption from our late visitor was passed, I began fully to realize my true condition. The wounds I had received became momentarily more painful. As soon as the remainder of the party came up, I was carried some distance down the mountain to a place suitable for camping. Here we remained twelve days, subsisting entirely upon the meat afforded by the bear Wilson shot in the late encounter.
It now became a source of much anxiety to know when and how we should leave this place, or what disposition they would make of me, as I seemed to grow worse, instead of better. It was thought by remaining in camp for ten or twelve days my wounds would have so far healed as to enable us to resume our journey ; but no one, not even myself, supposed that the injuries I had received were of so serious a character as they now proved to be. Finding, how- ever, at the expiration of that time, that my condition had in nowise improved, they consulted me in relation to the course that should be adopted. That it was necessary, absolutely so, that no more time should be lost, all insisted, as we were entirely stripped of clothing and without shoes to protect our feet from the thorns and briers that were ever in our path. All were becoming aware of the fact that their strength and health were fast failing, and although we had, from the outset, been gradually trained to bear cold, hunger and pain, yet it was too evident that our powers of endurance were seriously impaired. They urged, as a further reason, that our ammunition was now nearly or quite exhausted, upon which our sole dependence rested for the scanty supply of food that we could obtain. The meaning of this was obvious to me, and in reply I said to them, that they had remained with me as long as I could expect or ask ; that they were bound to save themselves if they could, and that they ought not to allow me to be in their way; but as they had seen proper to speak of the matter, I would ask of them one other favor. I suggested two ways in which they could dispose of me, either of which I would prefer to being abandoned to my fate in the con- dition and place in which I now was. The first, was to induce the Indians, who had visited us during our stay here, to take care of me until they could go to a settlement and return ; and the second was, to put an end to my sufferings. They cheerfully sought the chief of these Indians, and explained to him what they desired to do, and in turn what they required of him, to all of which he appar- ently readily assented, and promised faithfully to attend to me and supply me with food until they could return. He agreed to come the next morning and convey me to his ranch, which was about three miles distant, and situated upon the river.
At the appointed time the old chief presented himself, together with three of his men, and expressed his readiness to fulfill his agreement. One of them gave me several varieties of herbs, which I accepted and ate, and gave him to understand that they were very good. Before taking me, however, they de- manded some presents as a compensation for the services they were about to render. All the beads and trinkets in our possession were gathered together and given them. These, however, were not sufficient, and more were required. Their demand for more was repeated, and compliance on our part yielded, until every- thing we had, save such things as necessity absolutely required us to retain --- even blankets that had been allotted to me-were given up to him, in order, if
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possible, to avoid offending them. At length they seemed satisfied that they had gotten all they could, when the chief very cooly turned to his men and bade them to return to their homes, he following after them, leaving us to regret the folly and indiscretion committed, in reposing too much confidence in a race of beings known by all experience to be totally unworthy of it.
While these preliminaries were being arranged, I was busied in dragging myself upon a litter that had been prepared for me. This was a difficult task. I could not endure assistance, my leg was so much swollen and inflamed, and so exceedingly sensitive in getting upon it. I, however, finally succeeded, and had prepared myself to bid farewell, most likely forever, to my companions who had so patiently submitted to the great delay to which they had been subjected, through the misfortune that had overtaken me, and who had so calmly and quietly, without a single murmur, endured intense sufferings. When, however, I saw these treacherous villains leave us with their ill-gotten booty, my heart for a moment ceased to beat. The first thought that possessed my brain was that my fate was sealed-that death awaited me. Either I should be abandoned in these desolate solitudes, to endure the gnawing pangs of hunger, and at last to perish alone, a victim of starvation, or they would release me from these accumulated tortures by shooting me ; for in this light I viewed it, and therefor preferred the latter alternative.
A solemn and profound silence now prevailed with all-a silence which no one seemed disposed to interrupt. I turned my face from my companions, that they might not be embarrassed in their consultation, or in carrying into exe- cution any determination that they might arrive at, particularly if it should be to relieve me of my sufferings by shooting me.
The conversation was carried on in a low, indistinct tone of voice, for some time. Occasionally detached portions of sentences would reach my ears; enough, however, to satisfy my mind that there was a difference of opinion in relation to the course they should now adopt. At length, Wilson's voice rose above the rest, saying, "No! I will not leave him! I'll remain with him, if it is alone, or I will pack him if he is able and willing to bear the pain!" This terminated the conversation, and a few moments after Seabring came to me and inquired what should be done. I told him they might pack me to the river, where they had hacked out a canoe for the purpose of crossing, and I would then tell them whether I could continue with them, and in the event of my being unable to endure being packed further, all I had to ask of them was to leave me in the canoe to drift whither fate might direct.
He said, "We cannot pack you, for you have never allowed us to touch you even ; how then can you bear to be placed upon a horse and packed?" "You are not to consult my wishes in the matter," I replied. "If you have decided not to abandon me, you must do with me as you will. Much longer delay in this place and at this season of the year, may prove fatal to all ; self-preservation, there- fore, must demand an immediate resumption of our journey, if it be at the risk, and even expense of the life of one."
Wilson then requested me to select whichever animal I preferred; I, how- ever, chose my own. They now lifted me into the saddle, and spent much time in placing me in a position that would give me the least pain. None, however, seemed to suit, and I asked Seabring, as a particular favor, to exchange saddles, for I thought his would make me more comfortable, and was certain that it could not be worse than mine. They laid me upon the ground, changed the saddles, and
.
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again placed me upon my horse. I said nothing, but the agony I suffered no language can describe. The exchange of saddles aggravated my misery, but I had determined to be satisfied with this, let it be as it would. Seabring led my horse down the mountain, and after a long and tedious march, we reached the river. Here we camped.
When the bear that Wilson had killed in the late encounter had been cut up and brought into camp, the entrails were likewise brought in, carefully cleaned and preserved ; the blubber or fat was boiled out and put in these skins and laid aside. On resuming our journey these were taken along, and this we were com- pelled to drink, as a substitute for other food, before we reached the settlements.
The next morning I was again consulted, and asked if I were able to con- tinue on with them. I replied that as long as I lived, if it so pleased them, I desired to have them pack me, and should I die, that they could cut the cords that bound me to my horse and pass on. I could not ask or expect them to bury me, for there were no tools among the company with which to dig a grave.
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