USA > California > Humboldt County > History of Humboldt County, California, with biographical sketches of the leading men and women of the county who have been identified with its growth and development from the early days to the present > Part 4
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But more stirring events were soon to break the monotony of the journey. Mr. Wood says: "Toward evening of the next day, while passing over a sterile, rugged country, we heard what appeared to be the rolling and breaking of surf upon a distanct sea shore, or the roaring of some mighty waterfall. A halt was therefore determined upon, and we resolved to ascertain the cause of this before proceeding farther, and here we pitched our camp."
David A. Buck either volunteered or was detailed to make his way toward the sound of the breakers. He made his start the next morning. Just before night he returned to the camp, bringing with him a quantity of sand which, from its appearance, as well as that of the place from which he gathered it, he thought indicated the presence of gold. As the party was not on a gold-hunting expedition at the moment, but in search of the bay, it was decided to press toward the coast. But it should be explained that Mr. Buck really found the source of the noise. It was a stream which rushed with swollen violence over a steep descent. He had discovered the south fork of the Trinity river. The company found it impossible to cross until the junction of the stream with the Trinity was discovered.
The river was crossed, whereupon the company came suddenly upon an Indian ranch. Men, women and children fled. The scene was somewhat ludicrous all round, as the party itself had no suspicion that Indians dwelt there. The firearms of the party were wholly unfit for use, being soaked with rain. The narrative of Mr. Wood as to the episode with the Indians here follows :
"The scene that followed wholly divested our minds of all apprehension of danger, for as soon as they saw us, men, women and children fled in the wildest
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confusion, some plunging headlong into the river, not venturing to look behind them until they had reached a considerable elevation upon the mountain on the opposite side of the river, while others sought refuge in the thickets and among the rocks, leaving everything behind them. As soon as they had stopped in their flight, we endeavored, by signs, to induce those yet in view to return, giving them to understand, as best we could, that we intended them no harm; but it was all for a time to no purpose. They had never before seen a white man, nor had they received any intelligence of our coming; and to their being thus suddenly brought in contact with a race of beings so totally different in color, dress, and appearance from any they had ever seen or heard of, is attributable the over- whelming fear they betrayed.
"Our stock of provisions was now nearly exhausted, and what portion of our journey had been accomplished we were of course entirely ignorant. One thing, however, was apparent-that from then forward, upon Providence and our good rifles our dependence for food must rest.
"Having failed to induce the Indians to return, and observing that they had considerable quantities of salmon in their huts, which they had obtained and cured for their subsistence during the winter, we helped ourselves to as much as we wanted, leaving in its place a quantity of venison that had been killed by some of our party a short time previously, invoking as a justification for so doing the old adage 'a fair exchange is no robbery,' and pressed forward on our journey with all diligence.
"We had hoped that the Indians would not care to become better acquainted with us, and would allow us to pass unmolested. Imagine our surprise, then, when we were about camping for the night, there came marching toward us some seventy-five or eighty warriors, their faces and bodies painted, looking like so many demons, and armed and prepared for battle." The guns and ammuni- tion of the little company were soaking wet and worthless except as clubs. It was a grave question what to do, but it was quickly decided to assume an air of indifference. When they came within a hundred yards of us, however, we motioned to them to halt," says the narrator, "and they obeyed. Two of the company then advanced holding up to the view of the savages a number of beads and other fancy articles which the travelers were fortunate enough to possess. The warriors seemed greatly pleased with the articles, soon after which they were persuaded that the invaders were friendly and had no desire to hurt the Indians. The savages soon became friendly. They represented that their people were very numerous and that the travelers were at their mercy. They made it plain that they could at any moment slaughter the entire company. We soon started to convince them that they were mistaken and that a small company like ours could do wonders with our weapons."
Their curiosity was roused, and they wondered how the weapons were used. In order to accomplish their purpose, the white men gave them to understand that the guns could kill as many of them at a single shot as could stand, one behind another. They were not satisfied and expressed their doubts. They de- manded to see the effect of shooting at a mark. The white men, knowing of the unfit condition of their weapons, agreed to make a display of their power the next morning.
"Prudence and due regard for our safety compelled us to keep a careful watch during the night," runs the story of Mr. Wood, "but notwithstanding this, and the fact that some of the company felt little inclined to sleep, one of their
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expert thieves, aided by the pitchy darkness, crept to the spot where we were camped and took from beneath a pair of blankets a Colt's revolver without detec- tion. This was surprising to all, especially to the owner of the revolver, who could not sleep and was doubtless awake while the Indian was at his side."
It was the intention of the company to escape at dawn, but the Indians, anticipating this course, had gathered in great numbers, bringing their women and children to the spot. It was then decided, as the ammunition had been dried and the guns prepared, to give the promised demonstration. Here is the way the event culminated :
A piece of paper some two inches in diameter was handed to an Indian, who was asked to fasten it on a tree about sixty paces distant. It was explained that the marksman would shoot and that the ball would strike the paper. The Indians were arranged in a circle, full of curiosity. It was purposely not explained that the weapon would make any noise, so when the explosion occurred the entire party was panic-stricken. The women and children set up a terrific shrieking, at the same time dispersing in all directions. They feared that the warriors had been slain, but when they saw that nobody was hurt they returned to see what had happened to the tree. They carefully examined the hole in the paper, noting also that the bullet had penetrated the tree and disappeared in its depths.
"They now seemed disposed to treat us with greater respect," says Wood. "Taking advantage of the impression thus created, we tried to convince them that our small company was able to cope with all they could bring against us, and explained the force of a bullet thrown from one of our guns." It was also explained that the power of the gun was as much greater than the power of an arrow as its noise was louder.
The Indians then warned the company that the course it was pursuing would bring it in conflict with Indians who would interfere. It had been intended to go along the river, but the Indians advised the party to strike for the west. This advice was taken, and the party at once began the ascent of the mountain that lay in its patlı.
The only provisions left by this time were flour and a paste made therefrom. It was devoured with avidity, but on the night of November 13 the party went to bed dinnerless. The animals had been without food for two days, but were now eating grass.
Marching under these conditions, hungry and tired, it was sometimes thought best to try to return, but the suggestion was always overruled, for it was believed that the coast must be closer than the old camp. After picking their way carefully for a day, through a dense forest, a prairie was discovered. On the morning of the next day every member of the party started in search of game. Several deer were killed, and the half-famished company broiled the steaks in the ashes of the camp. It was determined to rest a few days to recuperate. During the stay a good quantity of venison was cured.
This venison was consumed during the march, and three days of fasting followed for men and beasts. Now and then trees were cut down in order to give the animals a chance to eat the leaves. Two of the horses were so famished that they were abandoned to die. At this apparently hopeless stage of the march a fertile prairie was again discovered. It afforded rich food for the horses, while plenty of venison was obtained for the men. A delay of three days was decided upon, during which a quantity of venison was prepared to be taken along.
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As two animals had been left behind, it was necessary to load those remaining pretty heavily with provisions.
At the end of ten days the food was again exhausted and no living game was in sight. For several days the party lived on bitter nuts which looked like acorns. Only a few could be eaten, however, as they proved an emetic in larger doses. Mr. Wood says: "Not one experience for days was without its hard- ships, privations, and almost starvation. At last we reached another opening in this wide forest, and without first selecting a camping place, as was usual with us, we hastened to search for food."
It was not long before a band of elk was observed, likewise deer in another direction. The party separated and resolved to attack the elk from different directions.
Mr. Wood soon heard some shots in quick succession, whereupon he hastened to the spot and found that Van Duzen had killed two grizzly bears and broken the back of a third one which lay near at hand. Two other grizzlies snarled and growled close at hand. These two were killed, one by Wood, one by Wilson, who had come upon the scene after hearing so much firing. The elk were lost, but several deer were brought to camp before nightfall. A delay of five days for rest and the curing of venison saw the party ready to proceed on its perilous journey once more.
It was found that the party had not averaged more than seven miles a day in its traveling, but the mountains were less steep and it was believed that a level country was not far away. The journey was resumed with lighter hearts and more buoyant hopes than for some days. It was believed that the coast must be within twelve or fourteen miles of the last camp, and this surmise was correct. Heavy redwood forests were encountered, and it was found that some of the trees were fully twenty-two feet in diameter. It was found impossible to travel more than two miles a day through the forests. Fallen trees were the chief impediment. No animals were encountered in the deep forests.
On the evening of the third day from our bear camp, as we called it, our ears were greeted with the welcome sound of the surf rolling and beating upon the sea shore. There was no doubt or mistake about it this time. The lofty tops caught the sound, which the deep stillness of a night in a forest rendered the more plainly audible ; and echoed it back to our attentive ears.
The following morning Messrs. Wilson and Van Duzen proposed to go to the coast in advance of the company, and at the same time to mark out the best route for the animals: to which proposition all agreed, and accordingly they left camp. In the evening of the same day they returned, bringing the glad tidings that they had reached the sea shore, and that it was not more than six miles distant.
At an early hour in the morning we resumed our journey with renewed spirits and courage. For three long days did we toil in these redwoods. Ex- haustion and almost starvation had reduced the animals to the last extremity. Three had just died, and the remainder were so much weakened and reduced that it constituted no small part of our labor and annoyance in assisting them to get up when they had fallen, which happened every time they were unfortunate enough to stumble against the smallest obstacle that lay in their path, and not one single effort would they make to recover their feet until that assistance came. At length we issued from this dismal forest prison, in which we had so long been
2
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shut up, into the open country, and at the same instant in full view of that vast world of water-the Pacific ocean.
Never shall I forget the thrill of joy and delight that animated me as I stood upon the sandy barrier that bounds and restrains those mighty waters.
It seemed like meeting some dear old friend, whose memory with joy I had treasured during long years of separation, and as the well spent surf glided upon the beach, bathing my very feet, a thousand recollections like magic flooded my mind. I felt as though there was yet some hope of deliverance from these sufferings. What a precious gift to man is hope! To no one is it denied, nor under any circumstances ; it throws a ray of light over the darkest scene; it is a pleasure as lasting as it is great-it may be deferred but it never dies. To me, at times, its rays were as bright as the beams of a noonday sun, and anon obscure as the faint and uncertain glimmering of a dim and distant light.
Our appetites, having again been sharpened by more than two days of fasting, soon awakened 11s from our pleasing reveries, and reminded us of the necessity of immediately going in search of food. Not long after we had separated for that purpose, Van Duzen shot a bald eagle, and Southard, a raven which was devouring a dead fish thrown upon the beach by the surf. These they brought into camp, and all. eagle, raven and half-devoured fish, were stewed together for our supper, after partaking of which we retired to our blankets and enjoyed a good night's rest.
Our prospects for a meal the next day were anything but flattering. Dr. Gregg therefore requested me to return to my mule which had fallen down the day before and been left to die, and take out his heart and liver and bring them to camp. I accordingly went, but judge of my surprise, when approaching the spot where I had left him, to find him quietly feeding. I determined at once not to obey my orders, and, instead thereof, drove him into camp.
The point at which we struck the coast was at the month of a small stream now known by the name of Little river. From this point we pushed on northward, following the coast line about eleven miles, when a small lake or lagoon arrested our progress. Finding it impossible to proceed further without encountering the redwood forest, which we were not in the least inclined to do, it was determined that we should retrace our steps and proceed south, following the coast to San Francisco, if such a course was possible. Traveling south about eight miles, we made a halt at a point or headland, which we had passed on our way up from where we first struck the coast. This we called "Gregg's Point", and is now known as Trinidad.
During our journey over the mountains the old Doctor took several obser- vations in order to prevent as much as possible a departure from the general course given us by the Indians. As we advanced, and our toil and sufferings accumulated, we gradually cultivated a distaste for such matters, and at an early day regarded his scientific experiments with indifference, while later in our journey they were looked upon with contempt. It was not unusual, therefore, for us to condemn him in most unmeasured terms for wasting his time and energies about that which would neither benefit him nor us in the least, or be of any service to others.
From an observation taken on this plateau, where the town of Trinidad is now situated, this point was found to be in latitude forty degrees, six minutes north. This the old gentleman took the trouble to engrave upon the trunk of a tree standing near by, for the benefit, as he said. of those who might hereafter
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visit the spot, if perchance such an occurrence should ever happen. Here we remained two days, living on mussels and dried salmon, which we obtained from the Indians, of whom we found many.
Again we resumed our journey. In crossing a deep gulch, a short distance from the point, the Doctor had the misfortune to have two of his animals mire down. He called lustily for assistance, but no one of the company would aid him to rescue them. We had been annoyed so much, and detained so long, in lifting fallen mules (some remembered the treatment they received when in a similar predicament) that one and all declared they would no longer lend assistance to man or beast, and that from this time forward each would constitute a company by himself, under obligations to no one, and free to act as best suited his notions.
In obedience to this resolve I immediately set about making arrangements in regard to myself. Having for some time noticed the rapid strides the com- pany were making toward disruption, and anticipating a result similar to that which had just transpired, I visited the chief of a tribe of Indians who lived close at hand, and explained to him as best I could what I wanted and intended to do, provided we could agree. I gave him to understand that I desired to remain with him awhile, and that if he would protect me and take care of my mule, and give me a place in his wigwam, I would furnish him with all the elk meat he wanted. To this he readily acquiesced, and in addition returned many assurances that nothing should harm either me or mine.
When the company were again about starting-for they all seemed bound in the same direction, whether in conformity to an agreed plan, or involuntarily, I did not know-they discovered that I was not prepared to accompany them, and demanded to know why I did not get ready. I then informed them of my determination, and the agreement I had made with the Indian chief. All were violently opposed to the agreement, and urged as a reason why I should not persist in such a determination that when all together we were not sufficiently strong to pass through this Indian country in safety, should they see fit to oppose us, and that to remain with them would be to abandon myself to certain destruction, while at the same time it would lessen the probability of any of them reaching the settlements in safety. I told them I had no horse that could travel, that I was not able to walk, and that I would as soon be killed by the Indians as again to incur the risk of starvation, or, perhaps, that which was worse, fall a victim to cannibalism.
Truesdell, who had two animals left, offered to sell me one of them for $100 if I would continue with them. I finally accepted the offer and proceeded with them.
Little river was soon recrossed, after which nothing occurred to interrupt our progress until we reached another stream, which was then a large river, being swollen by the heavy rains. Its banks ran full, and its waters, near the mouth, appeared deep and moved so slowly and gently that we concluded it must be a navigable stream. Our next difficulty was to cross this river. Here the harmony that had existed for so short a time was again disturbed.
The Doctor wished to ascertain the latitude of the mouth of the river, in order hereafter to know where it was. This was of course opposed by the rest of the company. Regardless of this opposition, he proceeded to take his observation. We were, however, equally obstinate in adhering to the determina- tion of proceeding without delay. Thus decided, our animals were speedily
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crossed over, and our blankets and ourselves placed in canoes-which we had procured from the Indians for this purpose-ready to cross. As the canoes were about pushing off, the Doctor, as if convinced that we would carry our determination into effect, and he be left behind, hastily caught up his instruments and ran for the canoe, to reach which, however, he was compelled to wade several steps in the water. His cup of wrath was now filled to the brim, but he remained silent until the opposite shore was gained, when he opened upon us a perfect battery of the most withering and violent abuse. Several times during the ebullition of the old man's passion he indulged in such insulting language and comparisons that some of the party, at best not too amiable in their disposition, came very near inflicting upon him summary punishment by con- signing him, instruments and all, to this beautiful river. Fortunately for the old gentleman, pacific councils prevailed, and we were soon ready and off again. This stream, in commemoration of the difficulty I have just related, we called Mad river.
We continued on down the beach a short time, when night overtaking us, we camped. So long a time had elapsed since our departure from the Trinity river, and so constant the suffering, toil and danger to which we had been exposed, that the main object of the expedition had been quite forgotten, and our only thought and sole aim seemed to be, how we should extricate ourselves from the situation we were in, and when we might exchange it for one of more comfort and less exposure and danger.
Immediately after halting, Buck and myself went in search of water. It had been our custom, whenever night happened to overtake us, there to camp- the almost ceaseless falling of the rain affording us a continual supply of water. This night, however, we camped in some sand hills, about a mile back from the beach without giving a thought how we should get water. A short distance from camp we separated, Buck going in one direction and I in another. I soon found slough water, which, although not altogether agreeable and pleasant to the taste, I concluded would answer our purpose, and returned with some of it to camp. Not long after, Buck came in and placed his kettle of water before us without anything being said. The Doctor, not relishing the water I had brought, and being somewhat thirsty, was the first to taste the other. The suddenness with which the water was spat out, after it had passed his lips, was a sufficient warning to the rest of us. The Doctor asked Mr. Buck where he got that water. Buck replied, "About half a mile from here." The Doctor remarked, "You cer- tainly did not get it out of the ocean, and we would like to know where you did get it." Buck answered, "I dipped it out of a bay of smooth water." This excited our curiosity and Buck seemed, at the time, to be rather dogged and not much disposed to gratify us by explanations. It was dusk, and he could not tell the extent of the bay. This was the night of the 20th of December, 1849, and was undoubtedly the first discovery of this. bay by Americans, notwithstanding a Capt. Douglass Ottinger claims to have first discovered it .* We gave it the name of Trinity bay, but before we could return to it, Captain Ottinger, with a party by water, discovered it and gave it the name of Humboldt bay.
The next morning, by daylight, we were up and moved our camp over to the bay, and stopped there during the day. This was opposite the point where Bucksport now stands. We encamped, the night previous, under a group of sinall trees in the sand hills lying between the bay and the ocean, on the strip :
*See chapter on discovery by Captain Winship in 1806.
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of land now known as the Peninsula or North Beach. The reason we had not discovered the bay the day previous, in traveling down from the mouth of Mad river, was because we followed the beach-it being hard sand and easy traveling- and the low hills and timber on the strip of land, lying between the ocean and the bay, shut out the latter entirely from our view.
During the day we remained here, the Indians came to our camp, and we learned from them that we could not follow down the beach on account of the entrance of the bay, which was just below us. Mr. Buck, however, to satisfy us, took an Indian with him and started down to the entrance. When he returned he reported quite a large and apparently deep stream connecting the bay with the ocean, and considerable swell setting in, which he thought would make it dangerous to attempt to cross. The Indians also represented that it was deeper than the trees growing on the peninsula were tall; so we abandoned the idea of attempting to cross it.
Where we camped was the narrowest part of the bay, being the channel abreast of Bucksport, and the Indians assured us that we could swim our animals across there, and offered to take us over in their canoes. Most of the party, including Dr. Gregg, were of the same opinion, but some of the company opposing the project, we packed up next morning and started northward, keep- ing as near the bay as the small sloughs would permit, for the purpose of heading it. After making the way through brush and swamp, swimming sloughs and nearly drowning ourselves and animals, we arrived toward night on the second day, after leaving our camp opposite Bucksport, on a beautiful plateau near the highland and redwoods, at the northeast end of the bay. At this point, which commands a fine view of the bay, stretching out to the southwest, we made a halt, and it being nearly night, pitched our camp. This plateau is the present site of the town of Union (now Arcata).
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