USA > California > Mendocino County > History of Mendocino County, California : comprising its geography, geology, topography, climatography, springs and timber > Part 13
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The inflamable character of the bark and wood of the cedar renders the timber particularly liable to the ravages of the fires which sweep annually over Oregon. Many thousands of acres of this valuable timber have been thus destroyed, and the principal supply now comes from Coos bay, where, however, from fire and cutting, the quantity of available cedar is being rapidly diminished. There is a fine body on the Coquille river, but owing to the difficulty of passing the bar at the mouth, which is shallow and un- safe, very little has ever been shipped from that place. This cedar will, however, as the demand increases, find an outlet through Coos bay, by means of a canal and railway, or by the way of Port Orford by means of a tram- way or railroad. The cedar is a tree of comparatively rapid growth, and as
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the fires do not seem to have destroyed the seeds buried beneath the light soil, it is probable that a new growth will in time spring up to replace the old, which may be utilized by the next generation if not by this. In some of the districts back of Port Orford there may be seen acres and acres thickly covered with a heavy growth of young cedars which have sprung up since the fires of 1865.
In view of the immense destruction of this as well as the less valuable timber belts by annual fires, it seems to be the duty of the general and State governments to devise some method of preventing them. Were they started from accidental causes, or from spontaneous combustion, this would be impossible; but too often they proceed from willful carelessness on the part of settlers. A man wishes to clear a potato patch of a few acres, whose total yield would not equal in value a single cedar tree, but the fire set to his brush-pile spreads through the woods, perhaps hundreds of miles, and may only be checked by the fall rains. Often the careless hunter leaves his camp-fire burning. It spreads among the dry leaves, communicates to the bark of some resinous tree, and soon the whole forest is on fire, the flames leaping from tree to tree, and the strong north-west winds spreading the flames far and wide. In some instances, the woods are actually set on fire; sometimes by hunters who wish to rid the forests of the underbrush, and sometimes by herders, who wish to burn off the fallen leaves so that the fresh grass can grow uninterruptedly. There is, we believe, a law in existence in reference to this subject, but it is practically inoperative, and very mild in its punishment. Neighbors will not inform on each other even if they know that a fire was originated from design, and it would be difficult to secure conviction for the offense. This law should be amended, the provisions made very stringent, and a person appointed by the govern- ment to ferret out, and make a prompt example of these incendiaries.
In the enumeration of the more important timber belts, mention was omitted of several varieties, which, although valuable in themselves, yet are not extensively utilized. Of these, the principal are the white or chestnut oak, (Quercus densiflora) the poplar, alder, chittim-wood, bearberry, dog- wood, crab-apple, etc. The first named, chestnut oak, has a wide range, and is usually found growing in company with the coniferc. On the northern coast it is frequently found in large groves on the mountain slopes. It has quite a stately growth in Oregon, frequently attaining a height of one hundred feet, and a diameter of two or three. The bark is extensively used all along the coast for tanning purposes. There is, however, a preju- dice against the wood, as it is said to rot easily, and to be brittle. That this is the case with the trees grown in the hot interior valleys, is undoubt- edly true. Further experiments with timber grown near the coast may dem- onstrate that, like the ash, it attains a denser fiber, and is less liable to decay when exposed to sea air. Timber grown near the coast, of this variety, is
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close-grained, white, and tough. The poplar and alder are found on the banks of all streams north of latitude 41º, and in great quantities on the Columbia river. The wood of the former is light, tough, and is scentless, and contains no resinous matter, hence it is much used for staves, being especially adapted to sugar or syrup barrels, and for the manufacture of churns and butter firkins. The alder has some of the same qualities, but decays quickly. The chittim-wood is a small tree, with foliage not unlike dog- wood, and grows from latitude 40° to 43º. The wood is a bright yellow, is very tough and light, and is the favorite among farmers for stirrups. The bearberry grows quite large in the same latitude, but is only valuable for the medicinal properties of its bark. The dogwood and crab-apple are found on the banks of the streams in the same latitude as the former.
The red cedar, a variety of the cupressus (cypress) family, is found grow ing in the same latitudes as the white, but extends farther northward. It is usually found scattered or in small clumps, and is valueless for lumber purposes, owing to the numerous limbs. The sugar pine, the most valuable of the soft woods of the Pacific coast, is sometimes found in scattered groups on the summits of the mountains near the coast, but rarely grows in any quantities until a distance of at least fifty miles from the sea is reached. The main forest bodies of the coast-line are comprised under the redwood, cedar, and fir families, and these timber belts will play a very important part in our commercial prosperity during the next score of years. There will come a time however, sooner perhaps than even mill owners will allow, when our supply must seriously diminish. No one who has witnessed the immense destruction of timber in cutting for a mill can have any idea of it. This is especially true of the redwood forests. Towering to such an immense height, and having a large diameter, when this tree is felled it not infrequently crushes others, and on striking the earth shivers large portions of it into waste wood. The fires alluded to before, are a potent agent for the destruction of the timber, and the prediction may safely be ventured that there are men living to-day, who will see a large percentage of our lumber brought from the distant shores of Alaska."
As all the coniferce which grow in California are represented in Mendo- cino county, we append the following list, more as a matter of reference than anything else, feeling that it will serve a good purpose for all of our readers who are at all observing of the different trees which grow in their county :-
1. Picea nobilis, a magnificent tree, growing up to two hundred feet in height, flourishing principally in the Shasta mountains. It has dark green leaves, which appear silvery underneath. It yields excellent timber, and is cultivated largely in Europe for ornamental purposes, being grown there from the seed.
2. Picea amabilis, a similar tree, growing especially near Truckee, where
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large forests of them exist, called by lumbermen red fir; it has, however different cones and lighter foliage than the fir.
3. Picea grandis, a fine tree, rising up to two hundred feet in height, called by lumberman white or balsam fir. The lumber is, however, not much esteemed, being soft and coarse-grained; but it is exceedingly hand- some as an ornamental tree.
4. Picea cracteata, perhaps the handsomest of all conifers. It is found growing in the Santa Lucia mountains, Monterey and San Luis Obispo counties. It is a tree of surpassing beauty, and highly esteemed in England, where young trees of this species are growing. The seed is extremely valuable, on account of the fact that many years pass by before the cones become perfect and produce seeds capable of germination. There is in San Luis Obispo county a grove of one hundred of these trees, worth a trip any time to see. Nowhere else are many found. Unless this grove is protected it will soon become extinct, as no young trees are growing in it. The tree would seem to have ceased to reproduce itself, here. It must have aid and protection. No one has laid eyes on the handsomest cone-bearer who has not been so fortunate as to look up at the Picea cracteata, the beautiful tree, as they call it in Europe, where they consider it a rare gem.
5. Abies Douglasii, a most valuable tree of California, growing easily in almost any soil, excellent for timber, and found largely in northern Cali- fornia and north to British Columbia.
6. Abies Menziesii, and seventh, Abies Williamsonii, grow chiefly in northern California. The lumber is used only for rough purposes, and is not very valuable. The first four are of the true firs, while the fifth, sixth, and seventh are the spruces of the coast.
8. Pinus Lambertiana, the sugar-pine, the grandest tree of the country, cultivated in northern Europe now largely because of its excellent timber qualities, and most of the growth there is from seeds sent from here, especially from British Columbia, and by the Hudson Bay Company during the last twenty-five years.
9. Pinus Jeffreyii, a beautiful pine growing especially thick near Carson, Nevada. It is esteemed highly in Europe because of its foliage, its usefulness for lumber, and its applicability for ornamentation, and because it will grow upon the meanest soil. It reaches an average height of one hundred and fifty feet. It is one of the hardiest of evergreens. It has large cones, with pyramidal hooked scales.
10. Pinus Coulteri, found only in the Coast Range; rises about sixty or seventy feet; distinguished as having the heaviest cones of any of the family of conifers.
11. Pinus Manchesteri, named after the Duke of Manchester, who dis- covered it in the Yosemite valley. Botanists believe it to be only a variety of Pinus ponderosa. It has, however, larger cones.
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12. Pinus tuberculata, a small evergreen found mainly in the Shasta mountains. The cones do not, often, open for years, and in order to'get out the seeds a high degree of heat has to be applied, such are the resinous qualities of the cone.
13. Pinus insignis, the Monterey pine, one of the handsomest of the whole species. It has beautiful light green foliage, which is too tender for Europe, where it fails under cultivation.
14. Pinus ponderosa, or heavy wooded pine. It is the pitch-pine of the mountains above the altitude of four thousand feet.
15. Pinus monticola, grows at an altitude of from six thousand to eight thousand feet. It is a. tall and erect sugar pine, and is used largely for railroad ties because of its durability.
16. Pinus aristata, grows rarely in California. It is called the awned cone-pine. Some of the trees are to be found near the Calaveras Grove. It reaches fifty or sixty feet in height.
17. Pinus contorta, an exceedingly tough wood, and does not rot. It has recently been introduced into Europe. Douglas found it on swamp ground on this coast, near the ocean. It is found in many northern parts of the continent. It is very hardy.
18. Pinus edulis, a small tree found largely in the lower country, and yielding edible nuts.
19. Sequoia gigantea, the big trees of California. Its synonym is Wellingtonia gigantea, and it is also known as Washingtonia gigantea, The cones are described as about two inches long, ovate, terminal, solitary, and with numerous prickled stipitate scales. The honor of the discovery of the great trees is in dispute, as is also the derivation of the name sequoia.
20. Sequoia semperviren. This is the half-brother of that last named, and is the redwood tree of the coast.
21. Libocedrus decurrens is the California white cedar. The trees grow very large, reaching a height of two hundred feet. It is excellent timber for use underground. Many of the trees are affected by dry-rot.
22. Cupressus fragrans, or the fragrant cypress. It grows principally in Oregon, and is there called the ginger pine, because of its aromatic flavor. It is a fine wood, and is used largely in the best furniture in Oregon.
Of all the trees mentioned in the foregoing pages let us now look and see what ones are indigenous to Mendocino county. Beginning with the coniferc, the coast redwood (Sequoia sempervirens) naturally and rightfully heads the list. The geographical extent of this tree in Mendocino county is from the Gual- ala river on the south to the northern boundary line, lying along the coast and extending inland from five to twenty-five miles. There was originally quite an extensive grove of them in what is now known as Redwood valley. This is the only known body of them lying east of the Russian river or the series of valleys extending north from its head. Redwood grows in heavier
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and more extensive bodies in this county than any other tree. In fact the county lies in the very heart of the great redwood belt of the Pacific coast. The next coniferce in importance for its usefulness is the yellow fir (Abies Williamsonii), which grows all through the redwood belt, and extends east- ward in clumps and groves to the county limits. It makes excellent lumber and several interior mills work on it principally. It grows tall and straight in Mendocino county, reaching the height of two hundred feet, and making a very stately tree. A congener, white fir (Picea grandis), grows right in the heart of the redwood forests on the coast, and is a much more beautiful tree in appearance, growing lithe and straight to a lofty height, and having a beau- tiful smooth light-colored bark, not so very dissimilar to the ash tree. The stranger going for the first time into a redwood logging camp wonders that such fine specimens of treehood are passed by and left standing by the woodsman, and is more surprised when told that the beautiful tree is very coarse grained, and that one year's exposure is sufficient to rot it almost completely. This tree extends well over the county in groves and separately. Another congener is the red fir (Picea amabillis), commonly known by the name of Oregon pine. This is not so generally spread over the county as either of the other two brothers, it being confined mostly to the coast, and growing best in the redwood belt. It is not considered as good lumber here as it is farther north, although it is prized for its toughness, but not for its durability or fineness of grain,-in both of which qualities it is sadly lack- ing. Of the remaining coniferce the sugar pine (Pinus Lambertiana) is by far the most important, and in fact it is the only kind of pine of which any use can be made at all. As stated above, this is the choicest of all the soft woods which are produced on the Pacific slope. Its fiber is compact and its grain fine, while it works very easily, and beyond the fault of season " checking " is altogether a desirable lumber. It is used principally for doors, sash, blinds, counters, shelving, and similar purposes. While it does not grow to any great extent in Mendocino county, there is quite a body of it about ten miles east of Point Arena on the ridge of the mountains lying between the north fork and the main branch of the Garcia river. In the course of time it will probably become accessible to the Garcia mill, and thence find its way to market, but at present it cannot be reached to any advantage at all. The trees are as large and make as good lumber as the Sierra mountain product. A few of these trees are scattered along the mountain spurs all along the Mendocino coast. The last of this family of trees which we will mention is what is locally known as "bull pine" (Pinus Coulteri), the scraggy, worthless pine-tree growing down on the mesas facing the ocean shore. The wood of this tree is not available for any pur- pose except kindling-wood or cheap fire-wood, and is being piled up and burned off the land to get rid of it. No attempt is made to make lumber of it as the trees do not grow to a sufficient size for that purpose.
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Of the other varieties of trees which grow in Mendocino county the chestnut oak (Quercus densiflora) is the most important, and affords quite an income yearly. It is that variety of the oak which yields the tan bark of commerce, and is very familiar to all residents of the county. It seems to thrive best in the redwood belt, and, as is said above, it is generally to be found growing in company with the coniferc. In this county but little use is made of the wood after the bark is stripped from it. It makes quite a fair quality of fire-wood, but it hardly pays to ship it so far. It is not thought worth while to prepare it for market in any other shape, and it is not known whether it would be suitable for economical purposes or not, but it is to be presumed that it is not so considered by the woodsmen themselves or it would be put upon the market in that shape. The laurel, (Oreodaphne Californica), is a wood much prized, and some very fine trees of this grow in Mendocino county. It is scattered pretty much all over the county, and will eventually be a staple article of export, when the demand for it will justify the labor and other expense requisite to get it to the San Francisco market. The live-oak (Quercus virens) is the most prized of any of the oaks which grow in Mendocino county, for its wood, not for lumbering pur- poses, however, but for fire-wood. It is considered the best wood for fuel on the coast, and always commands an advanced price in any market where it is offered for sale. It is to be found on all the mountain sides in the county, and as the most of the county is comprised of mountain sides it stands to reason that the trees are pretty generally diffused over the country. There are several other varieties of oaks, such as the black oak, valley oak, etc., none of which are, however, of any importance either for lumber or wood. Probably the widest diffused tree and of least value in Mendocino county is the madroña (Arbutus Menziesii). Go where you will the madrona meets you on the wayside, until its face becomes so familiar, that should you miss it for a mile or two, and come suddenly upon it you gaze with kindly eyes, somewhat as you would upon a long-lost friend. There is a tree, the soft maple, (Acer rubrum) which grows in Mendocino county, and is not seen in the counties south of it. It extends northward and is found in large bodies in Oregon. It is a beautiful lawn or avenue tree, and there can be nothing more lovely than the multi-colored leaves of a grove of maples in the autumn season, after "Jack Frost" has touched them with his icy brush, and changed the sombre chlorophyl to the bright-hued colors of the rainbow. Another rare tree for California, the chestnut, (Castanea Califor- nica), is found occasionally in Mendocino county. The tree has every out- ward appearance of the Eastern chestnut, of which every person reared east of the Alleghany mountains has such fond childhood reminiscences, but the nut is a great deal smaller. It is encased in a bur just as competent to prick the barefoot of the small boy out chestnuting, as its congener at the East. he writ er is not aware that there are any other trees of this kind in Cali-
Das Or Townsend
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fornia growing wild in the forests. A few of them can be seen on the road- side just north of Sherwood valley, between there and Cahto, and south of there also. Quite a considerable alder (Alnus) grows along the streams of the county, and on the low flat lands. It is used for nothing except light summer fire-wood. It is never exported, as the shipper would come out badly in debt on each cargo. There is an occasional white ash (Fraxinus alba) and rarely a white poplar (Populus alba) growing on the mountain sides, but not in any bodies at all.
Passing from trees to shrubs we find the manzanita growing everywhere, its bright red bark and deep green leaves contrasting beautifully, and producing a charming effect on the landscape. Here and there in clumps and clusters, the buckeye (Aesculus pavia) grows all over the county, and in the time of blooming they make the air in their vicinity redolent with rich odor. Another shrub which is the chief of all flowering shrubs in the county is the wild oleander, (Rhododendron Californicum). This is described by Volney Rattan in his " Popular California Flora " as follows : " R. Californicum, Hook, is a large evergreen shrub, with large bell-shaped rose-purple flowers; a true Rhododendron, probably not found south of Mendocino county." The beauty of these flowers cannot be described, they must be seen to be appreciated. The shrub sometimes attains a height of twenty feet or more, and is laden to the bending of the limbs with great clusters of roseate flowers. But the shrub of all shrubs in the mountains of Mendo- cino county is the chemissal (pronounced sheméese). Go where you will and there is chemissal to the right, left, fore and aft of you, and it grows so thickly that a mountain sheep cannot get through it. It must have been on the top of a chemissal mountain where the patriarch Abraham was sent by the Lord to try his faith, at least such a mountain would be a good place to find a sheep fastened by the horns.
There are other trees and shrubs growing within the limits of Mendocino county, but those of major importance have been mentioned and described. Another shrub is the wild hazel, which is perhaps not found south of Men- docino county. The writer has given the subject a great deal of research and is convinced that for all practical purposes all the trees and shrubs of importance have been touched upon, not with the master hand of a profes- sional botanist, but rather by a close and careful observer of facts and things as he passed by the wayside. Months would be required for the former, while weeks suffice for the latter.
SOILS .- The soil of Mendocino county is characteristically mountain, or in other words, that kind which is formed by the direct action of the soil-making machinery, so to speak, of a mountainous region. There may be said to be three classes of soil here, viz .: argillaceous, adobe and loam, and in all of these there is more or less of sand and cobble stones. The first named is quite
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widely diffused, and is found on all the mountain sides, and is, of course, not very prolific; trees, shrubs and grasses growing only indifferently in it. Adobe is to be found on the hill-sides and in the valleys. It is much given to land-sliding in the winter season, and gives much trouble in the way of obstructing roads. It is not apparently so rich here as in some of the other counties of the State where it predominates, but is considered very fair wheat and grazing land. The loam is the best of all soils in the county, and is found on the mesas fronting the ocean, and along the rich alluvial river bottoms of the county. In it all manner of fruits and vegetables thrive very well indeed, and in fact anything that will grow anywhere, will grow in the rich soil of the beautiful valleys of Mendocino county. There is a peculiar " half-and-half" kind of soil which predominates on the " second bottom," or benches of land lying at the foot of the mountains, which is known locally as " manzanita soil." It is composed of clay, adobe and loam in spots, with here and there an alkali or "scald " spot. It grows a most excellent quality of wheat, but not much can be said of the quantity. Ukiah City is located on just such soil, while just to the east, beginning in the very sub- urbs, lies the true valley, but with adobe soil in it. In all mountainous sections the effect of water is to carry off the lighter particles of richer loam to the valleys below, and perhaps far away near the months of the streams, while the heavier, coarser materials are left, and those soils which do not wash away easily; hence near the foot of the mountain we find boulders, further away cobble stones, and further on coarse gravel, then fine until the margin of the stream is reached, where there is a fine bed of loam. Should there be a body of adobe or clayey soil near the foot of the mountain, the most of it will be found still there, as the water rushing in madcap torrents from the gorges of the mountains to the river in the valley below, can have but little effect on it. There is a small amount of another kind of soil in this county, which, though forming no considerable portion of the soil of the county, must not be overlooked. This is the bog or peat soil, formed by the decaying vegetation in the swamps of overflowed and tule land in Cahto and Round valleys, and perhaps in other places in a limited amount. This soil is composed of decayed vegetation, guano, detritious and sedimentary deposits from the overflow of streams, mixed with a large percentage of preserved roots, the principal preservative agent being tannic acid. This is the richest soil known in the county, and the yield of grain and vegetables from fields of this character is simply marvelous.
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