USA > California > Mendocino County > History of Mendocino County, California : comprising its geography, geology, topography, climatography, springs and timber > Part 51
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CALPELLA .- Calpella is one of the oldest towns in Mendocino county, hav- ing been begun in 1858 by C. H. Veeder, as stated above. When the com- missioners were appointed to select two sites to be voted for for the county seat of Mendocino county, upon the organization of the county in 1859, Calpella was one of the places chosen; and, although we are unable to give the exact vote, yet we are informed that its competitor, Ukiah, did not carry off the honors with any very great majority. But that was its death knell. It is in too great proximity to Ukiah for the surrounding vicinity to support a town, and Ukiah serves only to draw away its very life blood, as all arteries of trade have long since been diverted from Calpella to the latter place. There is at present one store, one hotel, one blacksmith shop, and one saloon, and about a dozen dwelling-houses in the place. It is beau- tifully located, and has everything about it that would make it desirable for a town of some prominence except that it is overshadowed by its larger sister, Ukiah.
POMO. - This is a word of the old Indian dialect of the region, and means race, tribe or people. It is a small place located in Potter valley, comprising
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one store, two hotels, and about twenty dwelling-houses. There is a church building here which was built in 1872, and is owned by the Methodist South and Christian denominations conjointly ; the former owning three- fourths and the latter the remaining one-fourth. The building was paid for by subscriptions among the people of the valley, and certainly does credit to the town, and speaks very highly for the liberality of the people of that section. The building is thirty-five by fifty in size. The following is an outline history of the Potter Valley and Upper Lake Circuit, Pacific Annual Conference Methodist Episcopal Church South, from its organization down to the present time :-
" What is now Potter Valley and Upper Lake Circuit had its beginning in a mission established in the year - It was first called Little Lake mission ; since that time, however, it has been changed from a mission to a circuit; has also changed in name and boundary. The following are the names of the different ministers who have had charge of the work. Their names are given in the order of their labors, dating back to the year 1869 : W. L. Wilhite, 1869; Louis Hedgepeth; G. W. Fleming, two years; John F. Campbell, two years; J. C. Pendergrast. J. F. Campbell was returned to the work again, and died October 5, 1878. He was followed by J. G. Shelton, and J. S. Clurtse is now laboring in that field. The circuit has had quarterly visits from the different Presiding Elders of the circuit during the time, viz .: T. C. Barton, S. H. B. Anderson, J. C. Simmons, and W. F. Compton. Until the fall of 1874 the work embraced Round, Little Lake, Long, and Potter valleys, and was called Little Lake Circuit. At that time Round and Long valleys were cut off. In the fall of 1875 Little Lake valley was cut off, and the name of the circuit changed to Potter Valley Circuit. In the fall of 1876 the circuit was again changed so as to embrace the town and vicinity of Upper Lake, and it was then changed to its present name - Potter Valley and Upper Lake Circuit. No church property was acquired until the year 1872, when a neat and commodious church was built at Pomo, in Potter valley, at a cost of about $1,600. In the year 1875 parsonage property was obtained, valued at $430. When the Upper Lake portion of the circuit was added in 1877, it included a church valued at about $800. This property is still held by the circuit, and is now valued at about $2,500. The growth in membership has been steady all the while; so that from a beginning of ten or fifteen, it now numbers about one hun- dred and five, many of whom are leading citizens in the country included in this circuit."
CENTERVILLE. - This is a little town also in Potter valley, in which there is one store, two hotels, two blacksmith shops, one saloon, and one hall which was erected by the "Grangers" some years ago, when the " Patron of Hus- bandry" tidal wave piled in upon the State, flooding all the valleys and
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climbing to the very mountain heights, having its organizations in all the country school-houses and small villages in the land.
MILLS. - At the head of Russian river there is a stream known as Red- wood creek, lying about nine miles above Calpella. A saw-mill was built on it in 1858 by Thomas Elliott, which was driven by water and had a sash saw. Steam-power was put in in 1860, but it was always a small affair, never having a capacity above three thousand feet daily. The mill was dis- continued in 1864, as the body of timber was not very large.
In 1865, during the month of October, Mr. I. C. Reed put up a mill in Redwood valley. It was a water-power sash saw, and had a capacity of about four thousand feet.
There was a small saw-mill in Potter valley in the early days, but little or nothing seems to be known of either of the last-named mills, except that they existed.
The Coyote Valley Flour-mill was built in 1860 by a company, and for a while it did tolerably well; but the great flood of the winter of 1861-2 played such havoc with it that it was abandoned for awhile, remaining an unoccupied wreck for two years. On the 9th day of June, 1864, William J. Cleveland purchased it, and after giving to it much-needed repairs, and increasing its capacity, he put it again in operation, and it has continued ever since at work under his management. It had a capacity of five tons of wheat a day ; but its average work was about four tons, and there has never yet been a lack of wheat to keep it busily engaged. This mill was run by a twenty-foot water-wheel, which could be increased six feet more. The motive power-water-was conveyed in a flume a distance of one and three- fourths miles, from the east side of Potter valley out of a branch of the Russian river. Its machinery was substantial, and staunch, and its internal arrangement perfect. But the mill was destroyed by fire in June, 1866, being evidently the work of an incendiary, as the water in the flume was found diverted so that there would none get to the mill and be of any assist- ance in quenching the flames. The mill was rebuilt in October in the same year, and it is now driven by steam. It is a complete grist-mill, and does excellent work, and has a capacity of eighteen barrels of flour per day.
In 1864 Mr. S. Wurtenberg erected a flour-mill at Calpella, using water- power at first, but adding steam afterwards. He disposed of his interest to H. Wickelhausen, some time previous to 1867. . In that year the last-named gentleman moved the mill to Ukiah, where it has since continued in operation.
MINES AND MINING .- For years it has been known that there was gold in the mountains and valleys adjacent to Calpella, and many bright hopes and flattering prospects have been blasted 'by the non-realization of the indica- tions of precious metal to be found in that section. The influx of new life
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was felt in the old veins of that place as long ago as 1863, as the following extract from a Ukiah paper of that date will signify: "Of late Calpella has become one of the liveliest places in the county. Its immediate proximity to the newly-discovered mines gives it an importance it has not before aspired to. Improvements are rapidly going on there. All seems to be excitement and bustle, much resembling that attending the settlement of new mining towns in 1851-2." The indications are certainly good for some fine placer diggings to be found in that immediate vicinity at some future time, but it is not possible to predict whether or not the prospects will ever be real- ized. It is said that there is more or less platinum in the black sand found there, and great hopes are built upon the possible future developments of mines of that metal.
ROADS .- There is a road leading from Ukiah northward which passes through the western portion of the township, Calpella and Walker valley lying upon its immediate routes. There is a road extending from Cal- pella to Potter valley, and the people of that section have also two more outlets, viz., one to Willitsville and one to Round valley. Stages pass each way daily over the first-named road. These roads are all of easy grade, and kept in good order.
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HISTORY OF MENDOCINO COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.
LITTLE LAKE.
GEOGRAPHY .- Little Lake township is bounded on the north by Hum- boldt county, on the east by Round Valley township, on the south by Calpella township and on the west by Big River and Ten-mile River townships. Its boundary line follows the sinuosities of mountain chains and streams. There are no streams of any importance in the township, the South Eel river which lies on its eastern boundary being the nearest approach to anything of the kind. The township is entirely inland, and surrounded and covered with mountains.
TOPOGRAPHY .-- Hill and dale, mountain and vale; that is about all that can be said of the topograph of this township in a general way. Special mention should be made of Little Lake, Sherwood, Long and Cahto valleys. The first named lies in the southern end of the township, and is a perfect gem. It is almost circular in form, and is perhaps four miles in diameter. To the northward lies the next two named, one to the right and the other to the left, as you pass up to the last-named which lies at the head of Long valley.
SOIL .- The soil of the valleys is very fertile and productive, but they are most too elevated to grow fruits to any advantage. Vegetables, and the cereals thrive well in the soil here, which in the valleys is a sandy loam, ana on the hill-sides is argillaceous clay, and oftentimes adobe.
CLIMATE .- The climate of this section of Mendocino county is unexcelled in the State. It is sheltered from the heavy fogs and strong winds of the coast section, and yet lies close enough to the sea-board to reap the full benefit of the cool fresh breezes which are wafted far into the interior, bearing coolness and refreshing on their wings. Itis true that there are some days in midsummer when the mercury will indicate a high degree of heat, but the entire section is so elevated that the heat is not felt to be at all oppressive. But on the other hand the elevation which it has causes it to be quite cold during the winter season, but those terms do not last long, for the sea breezes, which were so cool and refreshing during the summer season now laden with warmth, absorbed from that great reservoir of heat, the ocean, come up over the mountains and through the valleys making everything glad from very warmth. The extremes of heat and cold are not so very great, and they are not felt to be grievous, owing to circumstances, all of which are favorable for the advantageousness of the section.
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LITTLE LAKE TOWNSHIP.
PRODUCTS .- The products of this section are quite varied, ranging through all the grades usually found in the temperate zone. The cereals and grasses thrive very well indeed, and vegetables and fruits are to be found in abun- dance. Little Lake and other valleys are especially productive. As the native grasses grow so thriftily here, the industry of stock-growing and sheep raising is carried on quite extensively. No great amount of labor is produced in the township, and no ties, fence-posts, cord-wood or tan- bark is exported, at least only in very limited amounts, if at all. But with its wonderfully fine climate, beautiful scenery, healthful air, bright skies, high mountains, lovely and fertile valleys; with all this and much more beside combined, it is hard to find any place where more natural qual- ities and circumstances combine to make up a spot perfectly adapted to man's existence. Surely the Garden of Eden could not have been a much lovelier spot than Little Lake valley, and happy indeed should be the resi- dents of that thrice-favored spot.
TIMBER .- There is quite a variety of timber in this township, but still no great bodies of real economical timber such as redwood, pine or fir. Border- ing on the western side of the township there is more or less redwood, it being where the great forests of the coast have lapped over the mountain tops and extended down the sides and into the valleys below on the eastern side, just as mighty waves of ocean dash high against the beetling cliffs, sending volumes of spray far over their tops, which courses down into the de- pressions on the other side, forming into pools and ponds. And as these pools are not the mighty ocean, nor do they resemble it in any respect except that it is sea-water, so it may be said of these interior redwood forests, they are not in any manner like the monster masses of woods fronting the ocean on the western slope of the Coast Range, except that they are redwoods. There are here and there straggling trees of yellow pine which make excel- lent lumber, but there is no considerable body of it. All the other varie- ties of timber which are indigenous to this section abound here, but not in large bodies.
EARLY SETTLEMENT .- As the valleys of this township divide it into sueli distinct and entirely separate sections, it is thought best to give the settle- ment of the township by valleys rather than as a whole. Beginning, tlien, at the southern end of the township Little Lake valley first claims the reader's attention. The three Baechtel brothers, Samuel, Harry S. and Martin, known all over Mendocino county as the "Baechtel boys," although the snows of many winters are beginning to leave their traces on their heads, were the first permanent settlers in this valley. In September, 1855, they brought a band of cattle up from Marin county and located in this lovely little mountain glade. Of course, there had been white men in the valley previous to that, though how many it is hard to tell now, but in all
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HISTORY OF MENDOCINO COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.
probability not any great number of them. The Baechtel brothers did not remain the sole occupants of the valley for any great length of time, for the following named settlers came in and located during that and the following year: Thomas Carson, well known to all old settlers as "Tom Punch," Thomas Duncan, John Greenberry, Alvin Potter, Frank Shondrean, Benja- min Dougherty, James G. and Robert S. Rawlison, Thomas Parton, B. Arnett, Levi Felton, J. Darby and William Fulwider, all of whom were single men, and as yet the eyes of a white woman had not rested on the lovely landscape of Little Lake valley. Alvin Potter located a claim where Mr. De Camp now resides. Shondrean located on lands now owned by H. Willits, and his old house is still standing on the original site where it was erected nearly a quarter of a century ago. Greenberry had a claim that joined Potter's tract on the south. Potter left about 1875, but is still alive. Greenberry left the valley about ten or twelve years ago and went to Sher- wood valley, where he remained a year or two, and then went to the Cache creek country and died. Shondreau went to Santa Barbara county, where he died some twelve years ago. After this the settlers caine in rapidly, and the valley soon filled up. Among those who came in during the early days not already named may be mentioned Rev. J. L. Broaddus, W. C. James, H. Willits and others. The last three had families, and their wives were the pioneer women of the valley. In December, 1856, the pioneer baby of Little Lake was born to Mr. and Mrs. W. C. James, and was a boy. The first girl to try her babyhood fortunes in the township was born to Mr. and Mrs. Philip Upp.
In Sherwood valley, which lies next to the north of Little Lake, the first settler was Alfred E. Sherwood, from whom that beautiful little glade took its name. This pioneer came up the coast from San Francisco in 1853, by the way of Bodega and the mouth of the Russian river. At Noyo he heard the Indians telling what beautiful valleys there were back in the interior, and was at last induced to go and visit them upon the representation of the Indians. After making quite an extended tour through several of the valleys Mr. Sherwood determined to locate in the one now bearing his name, which he did in September, 1853, and has since resided there. Samuel Watts was the next settler in this valley, coming in 1856. He was killed by the Indians in September, 1858. His claim joined Sherwood on the west, and embraced the land now occupied by J. M. Standley. John Greenberry, an old Rocky Mountain hunter, and James Crenshaw settled in the valley in 1857. E. P. Jewett, Moses Stopper, a member of the famous Stevenson's regiment, came in and located in 1858. Among other early settlers there may be mentioned William Fenwick, John Ingraham, J. A. Treadway, Paul Rill, an ex-soldier in the United States service, David Son, Sylvester Hatch, William Host, D. Merrifield, the Gruell brothers, - Brock and Benjamin Henderson. The last named was a man of family,
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and his wife was the first white woman to live in the valley. Paul Rill also had a family. Of all of these pioneers only A. E. Sherwood and D. Son remain in the valley at the present time. . Those old fellows had a wonder- ful taste for roaming about.
Long valley may be considered to include Cahto also, at least we will so consider it for our present purposes. The first actual settlers in the valley . were Robert White and John P. Simpson, who came early in 1857. Those who followed without families were Jackson Farley, George Woodman, Harry Schroeder, George and Edward Dutton, and William Poe. The first family was that of Dr. G. W. Sargeant, who came to the valley in 1857, and settled near Cahto, but soon after located on the place where his relict Mrs. Henry, still resides in Long valley proper. The next family that came was that of Jerry Lambert, consisting of his wife and three children, who arrived in the spring of 1858. On the 19th of September of that year J. G. Wilson arrived, having with him his wife and two children. They settled on the place where they now reside. . Shortly after the Wilson family came A. E. Requa with a wife and one child, and settled in the south end of the valley. During this same fall Clement Beattie and Thomas Smith came in and settled in the valley. Beattie is dead, but the others all reside just where they located years and years ago. Early in 1859 came Benjamin S. Barnes and Rufus Ward, and later during the same year Seth Toney and -- McChristian came in and settled. All of these people were engaged in stock-raising at that time. A number of settlers came into the township between the years of 1856 and 1860 whose locale we have been unable to determine. As far as we have been able to collect them their names are as follows: Leonard Dodge settled in 1855, J. W. Morris in 1856, James L. Burger in 1857, W. J. Hildredth in 1858, A. Redemeyer in 1858, James O. Toney in 1858, William E. Willis in 1859, and William H. White in 1859. Of course there were others who settled in the township in an early day, but the above list is as complete as we are able to make it at the present time.
The first murder committed in the county after its organization was in this township, as will be seen by referring to the chapter on Homicides in this work. The first natural death which occurred in Long valley was James Moore, who died in 1861. The first death in Little Lake valley occurred at the residence of Alvin Potter in 1857, and the deceased was named Abner.
The first marriage in the Long valley section was in 1860, and Miss Abi- gail Lambert, daughter of Jerry Lambert, and Richard Kenney were the contracting parties. The first school was taught by a Mr. Dennison in 1860, who boarded at B. Burns'. The first minister to preach the Gospel of Jesus Christ in the valley was the Rev. Cox, and the services were hell at the resi- dence of Jerry Lambert. This was in 1859.
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In those early days the women became inured to danger and often developed wonderful traits of bravery and grand heroism. We find the following in one of the local papers which will show the truth of the abovestatement: "A woman by the name of Bowman residing in Long valley was attacked in her home by Indians. In fighting for her life and the defense of her children she shot two of them dead, and then made her children walk in front of her four miles to a place of safety, keeping the Indians at bay with her rifle, She has also killed a grizzly bear."
We will now retrace our steps to the Little Lake section. The early settlers came into the valley over a trail which passed through Walker valley and thence down the Russian river to Sonoma county. Their wagons were brought over the mountains at a sort of a divide, but it was a very difficult task to accomplish. Wild oats grew in abundance, reaching to a man's knees on horseback. Game both large and small sought and found shelter in the fastnesses of the adjacent mountain cañons. The land belonged to the Government hence no troubles grew out of its settlement, and the titles have always been good except where shadows have crept in through the negligence of the settlers themselves.
The first celebration of our National holiday occurred in 1859, and the site chosen for the affair was near the residence of the Baechtel brothers. The entire celebration was in the hands of a committee on arrangements, consisting of Mesdames Margaret J. Upp, Susan Upp, and Margaret Willits, assisted by William Munroe. A collection of provisions was made by this committee, and articles ranging from half a veal to a chicken were donated, and the table made up fully in the essentials of life all that it lacked in the way of delicacies; and the appetites of those pioneer patriots were suffi- ciently whetted up by the bracing mountain air of their homes to cause them all to relish the viands spread before them that day with a zest which the epicurean never dreams of realizing while mincing over the rare culinary products of the present day. Harry Baechtel read the Declaration of Independence; other literary exercises were had, but the most pleasure to all present was afforded by the chance for social intercourse and visiting. In those days neighbors were miles and leagues apart instead of rods and fur- longs as now, and a general gathering together of all the settlers in the country round about gave them an opportunity for a grand old visit. We of to-day can have but little conception of the true pleasure which such a gathering afforded those pioneers. The following year the celebration was on a far more extended plan ; there being a regular old-fashioned barbecue, and a dance at night in the then new hall at the old town of Little Lake.
The first school at Little Lake was taught by William Munroe, and the school-house was on the place now owned by James Case. The first relig- ious services were held by Rev. Mr. Blair. A number of queer stories have come down as sort of legends of the early settlers of this township. It is
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related that Thomas Carson, alias " Tom Punch," sowed several bushels of corn meal, hoping therefrom to be able to reap a rich harvest of golden corn; but we are sorry to have to record the fact that his fond hopes were never realized. It is said that old Capt. R. Rundle had better success with his agricultural venture. He sowed two acres of split peas, and they grew and flourished, much to the surprise of all who saw him planting them, and the yield was simply enormous.
A very amusing reminiscence of the pioncer days comes down to the present about as follows: Benjamin Dougherty, one of the very earliest set- tlers in that section was the proud possessor of a mule, which he fairly doted upon. Wherever Ben went that mule was sure to go, and they seemed almost inseparable. In those old days bears were quite numerous, and very familiar on short acquaintance withal. On one occasion a hunting party was made up, composed of William Fulwider, James G. Rawlison, Jefferson Estes, and Ben Dougherty, who was as usual accompanied by his famous mule. When the shades of nightfall had settled over the valleys a camp was struck, and the evening repast enjoyed as only hunters can appreciate a meal of victuals. After supper, of course, came the inevitable pipes and the long yarns, narrating daring exploits, hair-breadth escapes, and bugaboo stories generally. Wrapped up as they were in their more than Arabian Night's stories, all thoughts of their present surroundings had passed from their mind, and they reveled in the mystic land of romance. Suddenly a crackling, crashing noise was heard amid the adjacent bushes, and "to arms !" was the immediate exclamation of all. It is stated that Dougherty started to climb a tree, and in his excitement slid down to the ground instead of ascending it, and when he felt the sure foundation under him he imagined himself securely seated in the forks of the tree, and far above the reach of the claws of old Bruin. He then shouted out to the others to shoot quick and not let the bear get into camp. Taking him at his word they fired a full volley of rifle bullets in the direction of the approaching enemy. A short groan, a heavy thud as the carcass of the animal struck the ground, a few death struggles and all was as still as night. Dougherty then arose from his lofty perch on the ground and was the bravest of the brave. Tak- ing a lighted faggot from the camp fire he dashed along in the direction of where he expected to find the huge carcass .of a monster bear, but his con- sternation and dismay can be better imagined than described when he came upon the dead body of his famous mule.
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