USA > California > Mendocino County > History of Mendocino County, California : comprising its geography, geology, topography, climatography, springs and timber > Part 50
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HISTORY OF MENDOCINO COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.
kept running till 12 o'clock the night previous to the fire. On the 6th day of the next month ground was broken for a new mill on the opposite side of the river from where the old building had stood, and on the 4th of July following, the mill was ready for operations again. The new mill had a capacity of thirty thousand feet daily. The company owns one thousand eight hundred acres of timber land, and the mill has cut about eighty-six million feet according to the best estimates, which is thought is from one- quarter to one-half of all the lumber which the tract owned by the company will yield.
A sprightly correspondent of one of the Ukiah papers, in 1877, gives this interesting scrap of history concerning the mill at Little River: "In August, 1864, Messrs. Stickney, Coombs & Reeves began hewing timber for their mill, and on the evening of October 15th, of that year the whistle sounded a triumphant blast that rang out through the redwoods as a knell of their doom. The mill company began shipping lumber the following January. During the first year there were thirty-eight schooners loaded with lumber at their yard. On the 20th day of March, 1874, and only two days after the withdrawal of Mr. Stickney, the mill was burned down. On the 6th day of April following, a new site was chosen, and by the 24th day of June the steam whistle proclaimed the wonderful energy of the owners.
In February, 1869, William H. Kelley began the erection of a mill at Pudding creek. It is not known now what was the capacity of the mill or how long it run.
In 1870 A. W. Hall constructed the first mill at Cuffey's Cove or Green- wood creek, which had a capacity of sixteen thousand feet daily, and was run till 1873, when it was taken out.
In 1873 James Dixon, a saw-mill man who has had mills in almost every available place from the redwoods in Marin county to no one knows where up the coast, moved his machinery from Fort Ross, Sonoma county, to near Bridgeport, Mendocino county, and established a mill at that place. After running it one year as a saw-mill he disposed of it to James Lamoine, who converted it into a shingle mill. In 1876 A. Newfield came into possession of it, which he retained till 1878, when he disposed of it to Mr. Dixon again, who converted it again into a saw-mill. In June, 1880, Mr. Newfield again got possession of the mill, and is still its proprietor. Its present capacity is fifteen thousand feet daily, and there are about six hundred acres of timber land available to the mill. While it was a shingle machine it cut about twenty million shingles.
In 1874 Messrs. Philips Brothers & Welle built a shingle mill at Cuffey's Cove, which they continued to run there for three years, and in 1877 it was moved into the cañon. Its capacity was ninety thousand daily, and it is still in operation.
In the fall of 1875 James Dixon built a steam saw-mill on Greenwood
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BIG RIVER TOWNSHIP.
creek, just back of Cuffey's Cove. It had a capacity of twenty thousand feet daily, and while it was run cut about five million feet of lumber. In 1877 the mill was discontinued.
During the fall of 1875 and the spring of 1876, Fred. Helmke, a mill, man, also well known in Sonoma county, erected the second mill on Green- wood creek. This was a first-class mill in every respect, its capacity being fifty thousand daily. Poor Helmke, another one of those invincible spirits of energy and enterprise that will not down under the ban of adversity, just such a man as can see all the possibilities, but not all the contingencies, that are in an enterprise, and one that, being so constituted, is very apt to overstep the bounds of a perfectly safe investment, and let his hopes and am- bitions carry him out upon the sea of misfortune and dash his craft upon the rocks of disaster, sinking all that his economy and business tact had gar- nered during the days of prosperous ventures, and also all that his credit could avail him. Such a man was Helmke; generous to a fault; honorable and honest to a farthing, as long as he had the farthing to pay his debts with. But financial disaster overtook him, and all his grand business am- bitions were swept out of existence in a day. The mill is now owned by the " Redwood Lumber Company." It is estimated that this mill has cut about twenty-three million feet of lumber since its erection.
In August, 1876, the "Salmon Creek Mill Company " erected a mill at Salmon creek, with a capacity of twenty thousand feet daily. The machin- ery consists of one double circular, one single edger, one planer, one trimmer, and one slab-saw. The company owns about seven hundred acres of timber- land, and it is estimated that the mill has cut from eight million to ten mil- lion feet of lumber since it began operations.
In 1878 Messrs. Gray & White erected a shingle mill at Salmon creek, with a capacity of ninety thousand shingles per day.
In 1878 Messrs. Coombs & Perkins erected a mill at Stillwell Gulch, about one and a half miles south of Little River. The mill has a capacity of twenty thousand feet daily. Its machinery is complete, and is a first-class mill in - every respect, though small.
Messrs. Britt & White have erected a mill during the present season (1880) at Salmon creek, which has a capacity of thirty thousand feet per day.
It will be seen by counting up, that there have been twenty mills, includ- ing the shingle mills, in Big River township, extending their time of erection from 1852 till 1880. This, of itself, is sufficient to give a good idea of the importance of the lumber business in the township and along the coast. It may be possible, that in gathering the facts and notes for these annals, that a few mills have been overlooked ; and also, that as full a history could not be obtained from some mills as of others. In a work of this kind it is impossi- ble to get all the facts that everybody knows concerning events and indus-
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HISTORY OF MENDOCINO COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.
tries, as in many cases the principal actors have long since passed away, and what has come down in tradition is all that can be gathered now.
RAILROADS .- When railroads for the transportation of logs or lumber have been directly connected with mills, mention of them has been made in connection with the mills; but there are two roads that have been constructed as a private enterprise, in one sense of the word, in that they serve the purposes of several mills.
In 1875 the Mendocino Railroad Company was organized and incorpor- ated, and the road constructed extending from the chutes at Cuffey's Cove, a distance of three and a half miles into the woods along the banks of Green- wood creek. The track'is the regular T rail, and is laid in the usual narrow- gauge measure. Two locomotives, not geared, each having forty-two inch drivers, and twenty-nine flat cars, constitute the rolling-stock of the com- pany. Mr. A. W. Hall, an enterprising citizen of that section, was one of the prime movers in the project, and is one of the principal stockholders.
In May, 1877, the Salmon Creek Railroad Company began operations, and by the following January had completed eight miles of narrow-gauge road, ex- tending from the Salmon creek wharf back into the woods along the bank of that stream. The rolling-stock consists of one engine and twenty flat cars. The road is complete in all its details, and certainly speaks in high terms of commendation of the enterprise the gentlemen displayed who had its build- ing in charge. It is owned by the "Salınon Creek Railroad Company," of whom Mr. L. E. White, of San Francisco, James Townsend, of Salmon creek, and others are the principal stock owners.
SHIP BUILDING .-
"'Build me straight, O worthy master! Staunch and strong, a goodly vessel, That shall laugh at all disaster, And with wave and whirlwind wrestle!' *
* *
" Thus, with the rising of the sun, Was the noble task begun. And soon throughout the shipyard's bounds Were heard the intermingled sounds Of axes and of mallets, plied With vigorous arms on every side; Plied so deftly and so well, That, ere the shadows of evening fell, The keel of oak for a noble ship, Scarfed and holted, straight and strong, Was lying ready and stretched along The blocks, well placed upon the slip. Happy, thrice happy, every one Who sees his lahor well begun, And not perplexed and multiplied By idly waiting for time and tide! * * *
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BIG RIVER TOWNSHIP.
" They fell-those lordly pines! Those grand majestic pines !- 'Mid shouts and cheers The jaded steers, Panting beneath the goad, Dragged down the weary, winding road Those captive kings so straight and tall, To be shorn of their streaming hair,
And, naked and bare, To feel the stress and the strain Of the wind, and the reeling main, Whose roar Would remind them forevermore
Of their native forests they should not see again. And everywhere the slender, graceful spars Poise aloft in the air,
And at the mast head
White, blue and red,
A flag unrolls-the stripes and stars. *
" All is finished! and at length Has come the bridal day Of beauty and of strength; To-day the vessel shall be launched! * * *
*
" The ocean old,
Centuries old, Strong as a youth, and as uncontrolled, Paces restless to and fro Up and down the sand of gold. His beating heart is not at rest, And far and wide With ceaseless flow His beard of snow Heaves with the heaving of his breast. He waits impatient for his bride.
There she stands With her foot upon the sands, Decked with flags and streamers gay,
Iu honor of her marriage day, Her snow-white signals fluttering, blending Round her like a veil descending, Ready to be The bride of the gray old sea. * * *
" Then the Master, With a gesture of command, Waved his hand; And at the word, Loud and sudden there was heard All around them, and below, The sound of hammers, blow on blow, Knocking away the shores and spurs, And see! She stirs!
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HISTORY OF MENDOCINO COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.
She starts, -she moves,-she seems to feel
The thrill of life along her keel,
And, spurring with her foot the ground,
With one exulting joyous bound, She leaps into the ocean's arms! And lo! from the assembled crowd There rose a shout prolonged and loud,
That to the ocean seemed to say,
'Take her, O bridegroom, old and gray,
Take her to thy protecting arms, With all her youth and all her charms!'
How beautiful she is! How fair She lies within those arms that press Her form with many a soft caress Of tenderness, and watchful care! Sail forth into the sea, O ship! Through wind and wave, right onward steer!"
The above extract from the beautiful poem entitled, "The Building of the Ship," written by Henry W. Longfellow, that patriarch of American bards, is so apropos and fitting that we were constrained to quote from it at length.
There have been a number of vessels built in the Big River township harbors, but the date of their construction or their tonnage burthen is unknown, as it was impossible to get at the records or to see the builder, or to hear from him. Capt. Thomas H. Peterson, at present a resident of Little River, has probably built more vessels than any other builder. The follow- ing list comprises all the information obtainable concerning them: Schooner Sue Merrill, three masts, was built at Russian Gulch, and lost at Noyo about her first trip; schooner James Townsend, three masts, built at Noyo in 1870, and is still alive; schooner Phil Sheridan, two masts built at Little River; she was run down by a steamer up north; schooner Little River, two masts, built at Little River, and is still alive; schooner Napa City, two masts, smallest of them all, was built at Little River, and is still alive; large tug Brannan, built at Noyo, and is still alive; schooner Sea Foam, two masts, built at Big River, and is still alive; schooner Uncle Sam, two masts, built at Big River, and is still alive; schooner Alice Kimball, two masts, built at Little River; schooner Brescot, two masts, built at Little River, and lost at San Miguel Island; schooner Silas Coombs, two masts, built at Little River, and lost in that port; schooner Emma and Louisa, two masts, was built at Little River, and is still alive; schooner S. M. Coombs, two masts, and still alive; schooner Johanna Brock, two masts, built at Little River, and capsized during the winter of 1879-80, up the coast near Humboldt bay; schooner Electra, two masts, built at Little River; schooner Gallatee, two masts, built at Little River, and is still alive; schooner Hannah Madison, two masts, built at Little River, and is still alive; schooner
Philip Upp
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BIG RIVER TOWNSHIP.
Barbara, two masts, built at Little River, and is still alive; schooner Mary D. Pomeroy, two masts, built at Little River, and lost off Point Reyes, with all on board.
Charles Fletcher, at Nevarra, is another shipbuilder, and the following list comprises those he has built: Schooner Nevarra, fifty tons burthen, built at Nevarra, and sold to parties in Mexico; schooner Sina, one hundred and forty tons burthen, built at Nevarra, and sold also to parties in Mexico; schooner Ocean Pearl, three hundred tons burthen, built at Nevarra, and lost up the coast in 1878. Capt. Fletcher has also built the following schooners, but not at Nevarra: Schooner, Ocean Spray, one hundred and forty tons burthen ; schooner Ino, one hundred and forty tons burthen ; and schooner Maggie Johnson, one hundred and fifty tons burthen. All these schooners are still alive. Capt. Fletcher's shipyard is located at the mouth of the Nevarra river, and the timber he has used in their construction all grew upon the adjacent hill-sides. The California fir, which grows in that vicinity, and which is known in the market as Oregon pine, if cut in the fall of the year, makes stronger and tougher timber than the regular Oregon fir (pine).
SHIPWRECKS .- It is utterly impossible to give a detailed account of all of the vessels which have gone ashore along the coast of Big River township, hence a few prominent wrecks, with some general statements, must suffice. Mention has already been made of the silk-laden vessel that went ashore at the mouth of the Noyo river, in the winter of 1851-2, which was the first vessel to strand upon the Mendocino shore. In the winter of 1855 a Chil- ian vessel and two schooners, which were loading lumber in the Mendocino City harbor, were driven ashore and lost, and several lives lost. The day was bright and clear, and no one thought of any impending danger, but suddenly great waves began to roll in, breaking clear across the harbor from point to point. The vessels were driven from their moorings, and soon dashed upon the beach or against the rocks. One of the schooners went into the famous " blow hole," as a seam in the rocks of the shore of the bay is called, and was never seen or heard from afterwards. She made three attempts to enter before she effected her purpose, if we may so speak of an inanimate object, but displayed such pertinacity in her efforts that she almost seemed endowed with intelligence and definite purpose. The first plunge she made her foremast was carried away, and the second time she dashed into the hole the main mast was snapped like a pipe-stem and the rigging carried away, and upon the third attempt she dashed directly into the hole, and there was never a trace of any kind of her discovered afterwards. How far this hole extends into the rock is a mystery, but it is known to extend for some distance, as parties have passed into it as far as feasible for the tides. One sailor went into the hole with the vessel, the others on board
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HISTORY OF MENDOCINO COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.
having jumped overboard were picked up out of the surf and saved. The steamer Fideleter went ashore in 1875, at Cuffey's Cove, and was a total wreck. The ports and harbors are not at all secure along the Mendocino coast, and the great number of small crafts which ply in the lumber trade make it a matter of no wonderment that scores of vessels have been dashed to pieces.
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CALPELLA TOWNSHIP.
CALPELLA.
GEOGRAPHY .- Calpella township is bounded on the north by Little Lake and Round Valley townships; on the east by Lake county; on the south by Ukiah and Anderson townships; and on the west by Big River township. The boundary lines are very crooked, following the sinuosities of mountain chains and valleys. There are no streams of any importance in the town- ship, although the Russian river has its source in the mountains of this township.
TOPOGRAPHY .- This township presents very much the same topographical features of the other townships in Mendocino county, except, that possibly, the valleys are a little more extensive than in some of the others. The Russian River valley, which passes up northward through the west center of it, is quite broad and fertile. In the eastern portion of the township, are the Redwood, Potter, Walker, and Coyote valleys, the two first named, are quite extensive, and Potter valley is especially productive. The trend of the Russian River valley and its bordering mountains is north and south, while all the others have a trend in a north-easterly and south-westerly direction, as the drainage is all towards the Russian river.
SOIL .- The soil of this section varies from the rich sandy loam of the valley to the heavy adobe and clays of the hill and mountain sides, passing through several grades. In the Russian River valley, there is more or less of morainal deposit, consisting of cobble stones, extending from coarse sand to boulders of gigantic size. A fine display of this morainal deposit may be seen on the road from Little Lake to Calpella, where there is a large body of cobble stones, the interstices of which are filled with argillaceous clay, highly impregnated with aluminum, which gives to it a wonderfully adhesive property, and causes the entire mass to appear now as one solid body. In the other valleys, the soil is a sandy loam, and as stated above, very pro- ductive, and well-adapted to the production of grains, vegetables and fruits.
CLIMATE .- The climate of all of that section of Mendocino county, that lies eastward of the Coast Range, is simply perfectly delightful, and too much cannot be said in commendation of its wonderful salubrity and health- fulness. Here the sun never shines but to gladden the face of nature, and to make the valleys paradisiacal, and a happy and lovely spot for man to locate his habitation, and to build up homes that he and his children after him may enjoy in unalloyed measure. The summer's sun sends his rays
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HISTORY OF MENDOCINO COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.
down in direct lines, raising the temperature, oftentimes, to above 100° Fah- renheit, but the air is pure, and to quite a degree, rare, hence the heat is not so oppressive and debilitating as in the lower levels, or in a denser atmosphere. In the winter, the snow sometimes falls in these valleys to a depth of from a few inches to a foot or two, but it does not remain on long at a time, and does not serve to lower the temperature to any deleterious degree. The snows of winter rests upon the adjacent mountain tops, until late in the sea- son, serving as great refrigerators, absorbing the heat of the sun, and send- ing forth cooled currents of air to settle down upon the arid valleys below, which reduce the temperature, especially at night, changing the scorching mid-day siroccos to delightful evening zephyrs. And thus it is with all our blessings-they are wafted out upon the fevered, famished world from above.
PRODUCTS .- The products of these valleys are multifarious, ranging through all the various productions of the temperate and semi-tropic zones. The cereals all thrive well, and produce handsomely ; vegetables grow very large, yielding immense quantities; while orchards, vines, and small fruits find their native home in the rich, warm soil. Hops do well along the Russian River val- ley. There is only one draw back to the development of these grand and fertile valleys, and that is the means of transportation. Markets are too remote for it to be profitable to the producer at present, but the time will come, and it is not now far distant, when access to the city markets will be had by rail, bringing at least Ukiah within six hours of the city. Then will all these valleys bloom like flower gardens, and the producer can realize well and amply upon his products. The products of these valleys, being so varied, an unexcelled opportunity for making beautiful and thrifty homes is offered and he who locates in them has never a cause for regret.
TIMBER .- The timber of this township embraces nearly all the varieties indigenous to the county, such as pines, firs, oaks and redwood. Redwood valley received its name from the fact that there was quite a body of red- wood timber lying in it. This is the farthest inland that redwoods grow in any body in Mendocino county, although there are stragglers here and there for several miles inland. When the first mills were located on the coast, it was thought that the redwood belt extended entirely across to the Sacramento valley. It is really a curious phenomenon that this body of redwoods should grow so far from their congeners and, apparently, under different circum- stances. As the redwood is considered to be a creation of the fogs so prevalent where it grows the strongest, it would seem that at sometime away back in the history of the world the conformation of the valleys and mountains was such that large bodies of fog drifted into and banked up in that section so that the young redwoods got at least a good start, if not a full growth, before the change came. When it is remembered that it has taken several centuries for
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CALPELA TOWNSHIP.
these trees to grow, it will be seen that there has been ample time for all the necessary changes to effect this end.
EARLY SETTLEMENT .- In September or October, 1852, Thomas and Wil- liam Potter, L. Anderson, Al. Strong, Moses C. Briggs, and two Spaniards started from near Healdsburg, Sonoma county, on horseback, for a trip to the source of the Russian river; and in the course of time found their way into what is now known as Potter valley, doubtless being the first white men who had ever gazed upon its lovely bosom. The party remained about three weeks, being engaged in spying out the land, and choosing a location to settle upon. At last three claims were decided upon as being the most eligible, and the two Potter brothers and Mr. Briggs located on them. In the spring of 1853, William Potter and M. C. Briggs took the first wagon into the valley and the former located permanently on his claim, while the latter put stock on his, and passed back and forth from Sonoma county till April, 1857, when he took his family there and located perma- nently. In 1856 Thomas Potter located permanently on his claim, which made Mr. Briggs the third settler in the valley. Briggs built a log-house, and whip-sawed the lumber for the first floor ever laid in the valley. This floor is still serving its purpose, and is in a high state of preservation. In the fall of 1857 Richard Swift moved in and settled permanently. Samuel Chase went into the valley with Mose Briggs and in the spring of 1858 Samuel Mewhinney moved in and settled. There were three single men, namely : Berry Wright, John H. Gardiner and - Williams. During 1858 quite a number of families moved in, and the valley settled up very fast.
Walker valley is situated in the northern part of Calpella township and contains an area of about two hundred acres. The first settler in the valley was Joseph Walker, who came in with a band of cattle as early as 1856, and for whom the valley was named. The land was located upon by J. G. Pooler, who soon after disposed of it to others, among whom was J. W. Mor- ris, of Ukiah. At times it gets very cold in this valley, and the last-named gentleman had the misfortune to lose a large portion of a band of cattle he had in the valley in 1858. Some winters are extremely severe, and others very mild indeed. The entire valley is now the property of Mr. Ranch Angle, an extensive sheep-rancher, who owns, in connection with it, about seven thousand acres.
To C. H. Veeder doubtless belongs the honor of being the first settler in the vicinity of Calpella. He came in and settled on the site of the present town in 1857, and having foresight and hoping for grand things in the future for the location, he laid out a town plat. The name Calpella, he took from the chief of the tribe of Indians which was located there, the name signifying, in the native dialect, a shell bearer. Mr. Veeder was accom- panied by his son-in-law James E. Pettus. Both of these men have been
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HISTORY OF MENDOCINO COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.
enterprising and active, in all matters that tended to the upbuilding and prosperity of their adopted home. Soon after their arrival they opened a store, which was probably the first place of business established in the Russian River valley within the limits of Mendocino county, or at least the second. Mr. A. T. Perkins sold goods at the present site of Ukiah, in 1857 but it is questionable now which began operations first, and moreover, Mr. Perkin's real business was blacksmithing, hence selling goods was only a secondary consideration with him, hence it seems that the laurels should, of a right, rest upon the brows of the first-named gentlemen. During 1858 Messrs. S. Wurtenberg and H. Wickelhausen located at Calpella, and started a general merchandising business, and also during this year John Corbet began blacksmithing, Benjamin Knight carrying on the wood-working department of the business. William H. White was then engaged in dress- ing deer skins and making gloves and clothing out of the leather. Other early settlers in the vicinity of Calpella were, Berry Wright, William Wiley, C. H. English, James L. Hughes, E. M. Mallory, James and Calvin Nuckolls, C. Ashley, T. Elliot, William Pitts, L. Hays and E. M. Howard. The last named was hunting in the valley before there were any settlers there. The following named gentlemen came in and settled in the years set opposite their names, but their locale is not known. In 1857, William P. English, B. F. Forsyth, H. P. McGee and Pierce Asbill. In 1858, A. C. Perry and Thomas O'Conner. In 1859, Ranch Angle, Dennis Qunliven, Isaac Y. Grif- fiths and T. W. Dashiel. This list does not comprise all who settled in the township in those pioneer days, but it is as complete as we are able to make it at this remote period.
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