USA > California > Merced County > History of Merced County, California with biographical sketches of prominent citizens > Part 7
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FIRST SAN JOAQUIN RANCH.
I have now been more than ten years in this country, and have traveled over all the inhabited and most of the uninhab- ited parts of it. I have resided eight years where I now live, near the Bay of San Francisco, and at the point where the
*This interesting letter dlescriptis e of California dil much to call public attention to this then unknown region. The letter was written from the Marsh grant, at the foot of Mount Dialito, in Contra Costa county.
36
IMPORTANT DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.
rivers Sacramento and San Joaquin unite together to meet the tidr-water of the bay, about forty miles from the ocean. I possess at this place a farm about ten miles by twelve in extent, one side of which borders on the river, which is navigable to this point for sea-going vessels. I have at last found the far West, and intend to end my ramblings here.
I perceive by the public papers that this region of country, including that immediately north of it, which until lately was the most completely a terra incognito of any portion of the globe, is at length attracting the attention of the United States and Europe. The world, at length, seems to have beeome awake to the natural advantages of California and Oregon, and it seems probable that at the same moment I am writing, their political destinies are about being settled, at least for a long time to come. I mention the two countries together because I conceive the future destiny of this whole region to be one and inseparable. The natural conformation of the country strongly indicates it and a sympathy and fellow feeling in the inhabitants is taking place, which must soon bring about the consumination. Cali- fornia, as well as Oregon, is rapidly peopling with emigrauts from the .United States. Even the inhabitants of Spanish ori- gin, tired of anarchy and misrule, would be glad to come under the American Government.
The Government of the United States, in encouraging and facilitating emigration to Oregon is, in fact, helping to people California. It is like the British Government sending settlers to Canada. The emigrants are well aware of the vast superi- ority of California, both in soil and climate, and I may add, facility of access. Every year shorter and better routes are beiug discovered, and this year the great desideratum of a good and practical road for wbeel carriages has been found. Fifty- three wagons, with that number of families, have arrived safely, and more than a month earlier than any previous company. The American Government encourages emigration to Oregon by giving gratuitously some five or six hundred aeres of land to each family of actual settlers. California, too, gives lands, not by acres, but by leagues, and has some thousands of leagues more to give to anybody who will occupy them. Never in any instance lias less than one league been given to any individual, and the wide world from which to select from all the unoccu- pied lands in the territory. While Col. Almonte, the Mexican Minister to Washington, is publishing his proclamations in the Aineriean newspapers forbidding people to emigrate to Cali- fornia, and telling tbem that no lands will be given them, the actual Government here is doing just the contrary. In fact they care about as much for the Government of Mexico as for that of Japau.
ESTIMATED POPULATION.
It has been usual to estimate the population of Upper Cali- fornia at five thousand persons of Spanish descent, and twenty
thousand Indians. This estimate may have been near the truth twenty years ago. At present the population may be stated in round numbers at seven thousand Spaniards, ten thousand civilized, or rather domesticated Indians. To this may be added about seven hundred Americans, one hundred English, Irish and Scotch, and about one hundred French, Germans and Italians.
Within the territorial limits of Upper California, taking the parallel of 42° for the northern, and the Colorado river for the south-eastern boundary, arc an immense number of wild, naked, brute Indians. The number, of course, can only be con- jectured. They probably exceed a million, and may perhaps amount to double that number.
MUNIFICENT BARONIES.
The far-famed missions of California no longer exist. They have nearly all been broken up, and the lands apportioned ont into farms. They were certainly munificent ecclesiastical bar- onies, and although their existence was quite incompatible with the general prosperity of the country, it seems almost a pity to see their downfall. The immense piles of buildings and beau- tiful vineyards and orchards are all that remain, with the exception of two in the southern part of the territory, which still retain a small remnant of their former prosperity.
EARLY IMPRESSIONS OF CLIMATE.
The climate of California is remarkably different from that of the United States. The great distinguishing difference is its regularity and uniformity. From May to October the wind is invariably from the north-west, and during this time it never rains, and the sky is brilliantly clear and serene. The weather during this time is temperate, and rarely oppressively warm. The nights are always agreeably cool, and many of the inbab- itants sleep in the open air the whole year round. From October to May the south-east wind frequently blows, and is always accompanied by rain. Snow never falls excepting in the mountains. Frost is rare except in December or January. A proof of the mildness of the winter this moment presents itself in the shape of a humming-bird, which I just saw from the open window, aud this is in latitude 38° on the first day of February. Wheat is sown from October until March, and maize from March until July. As respects human health and comfort, the climate is incomparably better than that of any part of the United States. It is much the most healthy country I have ever seen or bave any knowledge of. There is no dis- ease whatever that can be attributed to the influence of the climate.
ESTIMATES ON SIZE OF CALIFORNIA.
The face of the country differs as much from the United
RESIDENCE.
YOSEMITE STABLE
JW.L.SILMAN
YOSEMITE
YOSEMITE STABLE. W.L.SILMAN PROP. MERCED, CAL.
REMARKABLE PREDICTIONS OF A PIONEER.
Staten as the chuste. The whole territory is traveren by range of mountain- which run parallel to each other and t. the coast. The high at points way to about six thousand foot alxove the sea, in mượt planes much lower, and in many part- they dwindle to low hills. They are everywhere covered with gran and vegetation, and many of the valleys and northern doeliv- ities almond with the finest timber trees. Between these ranges of mountains are level valleys, or rather plains of every width, from five miles to fifty. The magnificent valley through which flow the rivers St Joaquin and Sacramento is for kun- dred miles long, with an average width of forty or fifty. It is intersected laterally for many smaller, rivers, adoubling with salmon.
The only inhabitants of this valley, which is capalde of supporting a nation, are about a hundred and fifty Ameri- eans and a few Indians. No published maps that I have seen give any correct iden of the country, excepting the outline of the coast.
SAN FRANCISCO BAY DESCHIRED.
The Bay of San Francisco is considered by nautical men as one of the finest harbors in the world. It consists of two principal arms, diverging from the entrance in nearly opposite directions, and each about fifty miles long, with an average width of eight or ten. It is perfectly sheltered from every wind, has great depth of water, is ensily accessible at all times, and space enough for half the ships in the world. The entrance is less than a mile wide, and could be easily fortified so as to make it entirely impregnable. The vienity abounds in the finest timber for ship-builling, and in fact everything necessary to make it a great naval and commercial depot. If it were in the hands of a nation who knew how to make use of it, its influence would soon be felt on all the western coast of America, and probably through the whole Pacific.
A CHANGE PREDICTED.
I think it cannot long remain in the hands of its present owners. If it does not come into possession of Americans, the English will have it. This port in their hands, what will Oregon be worth to the United States? They loudly threaten to get possession of Cuba as an offset against Texas. Will they not be quite as likely to obtain California, as an offset against Oregon? A British ship of war was here last summer, whose captain was a brother of Lord Aberdeen, and one of her licu- tenants a son of Sir R. Peel. The gentlemen declared openly that this port would shortly belong to them. This I take to be only a slight ebullition of John Bullism, but that they want this port, and will have it if possible, there can be no doubt, a consummation most earnestly and ardently to be deprecated by every American. I hope it may direct your views to take an interest in this matter.
ESTIMATE ON CAPABILITIES OF CALIFORNIA.
The agricultural capabilities of California are but very imperfectly developed. The whole of it is remarkably adapted to the culture of the vine. Wine and brandy of excellent quality are made in consideralde quantities Olives, figs and almonds grow well. Appdes, pears and peaches are atumdant, and in the southern part, oranges Cotton is beginning to be cultivatal, and succeeds well. It is the tinest country for wheat I have ever seen. Fifty for one is an average crop, with very imperfect cultivation. One hundredl fold is not nucommon, and even one hundred and fifty has been produced. Maize pro- duces tolerably well, lait not equal to some parts of the United States Hemp, flax and tobacco have been cultivated on a small scale, and succeed well. The raising of cattle is the prin- cipal pursuit of the inhabitants, and the most profitable.
The foreign commerce of Upper California employs from teu to fifteen sail of vessels, mostly large ships, Somewhat more than , half of these are Amerienn, and belong exclusively to the port. of Boston. The others are English, French, Russian, Mexican, Peruvian and Hawaiian. The French from their islands in the Pacific, and the Russians from Kamtschatka, and their establishments on the north west coast, resort here for provis- ions and live stock. The exports consist of hides and tallow, cows, lard, wheat, soap, timber and furs. There are slaughtered anmially about one hundred thousand head of cattle, worth $800,000. The whole value of the exports annually amounts to abont $1,000,000. The largest itent of imports is American cotton goods. The duties on imports are enormously high, nmounting on the most important articles to one hundred and fifty per cent on the original eost, and in ninny instances to four or five hundred. Thus, as in most Spanish countries, a high bounty is paid to encourage sinnggling. Whale ships visit St. Francisco annually inconsiderable numbers for refresh- ments, and fail not to profit by the facilities for illicit commerce.
CALIFORNIA WILL BE A STATE.
California, although nominally belonging to Mexico, is about as independent of it as Texas, and must ere long share the same jute. Since my residence here, no less than four Mexican Gov- ernors have been driven from the country by force of arms. The last of these, Micheltorena, with abont four hundred of his sol- diers and one hundred employés, were driven away about a year ago.
This occurred at the time that the rest of the nation was expel- ling his master, Santa Ana, although nothing of this was known here at the time. The new administration, therefore, with a good graee, highly approved of our conduct. In fact, the suc- cessive administrations in Mexico have always shown a dispo- sition to sanction and approve of whatever we may do here, from a conseious inability to retain even a nominal dominion over the country by any other means. Upper California has
38
HABITS AND LIFE OF THE ABORIGINES.
been governed for the last year entirely by its own eitizens. Lower California is in general an uninhabited and uninhab- itable desert. The scanty population it contains lives near the extremity of the Cape, and has no connection and little inter- course with this part of the country.
GOLD MINES BEFORE SUTTER'S DISCOVERY.
Upper California has a productive gold mine, and silver ore has been found in many places. A mine of quicksilver has been very lately found in this vicinity, which promises to be very valuable.
INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA.
"I know not, since you have been so long engaged in more weighty coneerns, if you take the same interest as formerly in Indian affairs, but since I have supposed your personal identity to remain, I shall venture a few remarks on the Aborigines of California. In stature the California Indian rather exceeds the average of the tribes east of the mountains. He is heavier limbed and stouter built. They are a hairy raee, and some of them have beards that would do honor to a Turk. The color similar to that of the Algonquin race, or perhaps rather lighter. The visage, short and broad, with wide mouth, thiek lips, short, broad nose, and extremely low forehead. In some individuals the hair grows quite down to the eyebrows, and they may be said to have no forehead at all. Some few have that peculiar conformation of the eye so remarkable in the Chinese and Tartar races, and entirely different from the com- inon American Indian or the Polynesian ; and with this unpromising set of features, some have an animated and agree- able expression of countenance. The general expression of the wild Indian has nothing of the proud and lofty bearing, or the haughtiness and ferocity so often seen east of the mnonntains. It is more commonly indicative of timidity and stupidity.
"The men and children are absolutely and entirely naked, and the dress of the women is the least possible or conceivable remove from nudity. Their food varies with the season. In February and March they live on grass and herbage ; elover and wild pea-vine are among the best kinds of their pasturage. I have often seen hundreds of them grazing together in a meadow, like so many cattle. [Descendants of Nebuchadnez- zar .- ED.]
"They are very poor hunters of the larger animals, but very skillful in making and managing nets for fish and food. They also colleet in their season great quantities of the seeds of various grasses, which are particularly abundant. Acorns are another principal article of food, which are larger, more abundant, and of better quality than I have seen eleswhere. The Californian is not more different from the tribes east of the mountains in his physical than in his moral and intelleetnal qualities. They are easily domesticated, not averse to labor,
have a natural aptitude to learn mechanical trades, and, I believe, universally a fondness for musie, and a facility in acquiring it.
INDIANS OF THE MISSION.
"The Mission of St. Joseph, when in its prosperity, had one hundred plough-men, and I have seen them all at work in one field each with his plough. It had also fifty weavers, twenty tan- ners, thirty shoe-makers, forty masons, twenty carpenters, ten blacksmiths, and various other mechanies. They are not nearly so mueh addicted to intoxication as is common to other Indians. I was for some years, of the opinion that they were of an entirely different raee from those east of the mountains, and they certainly have but little similarity. The only thing that caused me to think differently is that they have the same Moccasin game that is so common on the Mississippi, and what is more remarkable, they accompany it by singing precisely the same tune! The diversity of language among them is very great. It is seldom an Indian ean understand another who lives fifty miles distant; within the limits of California are at least a hundred dialeets, apparently entirely dissimilar. Few or no white persons have taken any pains to learn them, as there are individuals in all the tribes which have commu- nication with the settlements who speak Spanish.
INDIANS EASILY DOMESTICATED.
The children, when eaught young, are most easily domesti- cated, and manifest a great aptitude to learn whatever is taught them; when taken into Spanish families, and treated with kindness, in a few months they learn the language and habits of their masters. When they come to maturity they show no disposition to return to the savage state. The mind of the wild Indian, of whatever age, appears to be a tabula rasa, on which no impressions, except those of mere animal nature, have been made, and ready to receive any impress whatever. I remember a remark of yours some years ago, that " Indians were only grown-up children." Here we have a real race of infants. In many recent instances when a family of white people have taken a farm in the vicinity of an Indian village, in a short time they would have the whole tribe for willing serfs. They submit to flagellation with more humility than the negroes. Nothing more is necessary for their complete subjugation but kindness in the beginning, and a little well- timed severity when manifestly deserved. It is common for the white man to ask the Indian, when the latter has eommit- ted any fault, how many lashes he thinks he deserves.
INDIAN SIMPLICITY.
" The Indian, with a simplicity and humility almost ineon- eeivable, replies ten or twenty, according to his opinion of the magnitude of the offense. The white man then orders another
39
INCREASED IMMIGRATION TO CALIFORNIA.
Indian to inflict the punishment, which is receivel without the icast sign of resentment or discoutent This I have myself witnessyl or I could hardly have believed it. Throughout all California the Indians are the principal laborers; without thein the business of the country could hardly be carriedl on.
" I fear the unexpected length of this desultory epistle will be tulious to you, but I hope it will serve at least to diversify your correspondence. If I can afford you any information, or be servicalde to you in any way, I beg you to cominand me. Any communication to me can be sent through the American Minister at Mexico, or the Commanding Othicer of the Squad- ron in the l'acilie, directed to the care of T. O. Larkin, Esq .. American Consul in Monterey, I am, sir, very respectfully,
" Your obedient servant,
" HON. LEWIS CASS. JOHN MARSH."
Dr. Marsh was murdered on the 24th of September, 1856 It occasioned much excitement at the time, as the Doctor was one of the oblest residents of the State. The murderers were Mexicans, who followed him as he was on the road towards home from Pacheco. The discovery of the horse and buggy in Martinez at early daylight was the first knowledge of the affair. One of the murderers was arrested the next day. He was tried, but escaped from jail and eluded pursuit for ten years. lle was again arrested with his accomplice, P. Moreno, who was sentenced to State prison for life, while the first was discharged,
INCREASED IMMIGRATION TO CALIFORNIA.
1840,-In the first five years of the decade commencing with 1840, there began to settle in the vast Californian valleys that intrepid band of pioneers, who, having scaled the Sierra Nevadas with their wagons, trains, and cattle, began the civil- izing inthiences of progress on the Pacific coast. Many of them had left their homes in the Atlantic and Southern States, with the avowed intention of proceeding direct to Oregon. On arrival at Fort Hall, however, they heard glowing accounts of the salubrity of the Californian climate and the fertility of its soil; they therefore turned their heads southward and steered for the wished-for haveu. At length, after weary days of toil and anxiety, fatigued and foot-sore, the promised land was gained. Aud what was it like ?
CALIFORNIA IN A STATE OF NATURE.
The valleys were an interminable grain field; mile upon mile, and acre after acre, wild oats grew in marvellous profu- sion, in many places to a prodigious height-one glorious green of wild waving corn-high overhead of the wayfarer on foot, and shoulder-high with the equestrian; wild flowers of every pris- matic shade charmed the eye, while they vied with each other in the gorgeousness of their colors, and blended into dazzling splendor.
One breath of wind and the wide emeraldl expan ~. ripplel itself into space, while with the liavier breeze came a well whose rolling waves beat against the mountain sidles, and, being burlel back, were lost in the far-away horizon; shadow pursued shadlow in a long, merry chase.
The air was filled with the hum of bees, the chirrup of kins, and an overpowering fragrance from various jdants. The hill- sides, overrun as they were with a dene max of tangled jungle, were hard to penetrate, while in some portions the deep dark gloom of the forest trees but relief to the eye. The almost bonneless range was intersected throughout with diver- gent trails, whereby the traveler moved from point to point, progress being, as it were, in darkness ou account of the height of the oats on either sule, and rendered dangerous in the valleys by the bands of umtamed cattle, sprung from the stock introduced by the missions and early Spanish settlers. These
GEN. JOHN A. SUTTER.
found food and shelter on the plains during the night; at dawn they repaired to the higher grounds to chew the cud and bask in the sunshine.
THE HARDY PIONEERS.
What a life was that of the carly pioneer, and how much of life was often crowded into a year, or, sometimes, even into a day of their existence! Now, that the roads are all made, and the dim trail has been supplanted by well-beaten and much-traveled highways, how complacently we talk and write and read of their deeds and exploits. The writer of fifty years hence will be the man who will have the license to color up the heroic deeds of valor, and set forth in fitting words a proper tribute to the valor and prowess of the generation that is just now passing from our midst. We of to-day cannot, dare not, say it as it should he, for there are fiving witnesses who would say it was too highly colored-too romantic, too fanciful.
40
ARRIVAL OF CAPTAIN SUTTER AND OTHERS.
TOU, AND PRIVATIONS OF PIONEERS.
It has been theirs to subdue the wilderness and change it into smiling fields of bright growing grain. Toil and priva- tions, such as we can little appreciate now, was their lot for years. Poor houses, and even no houses at all, but a simple teut or even an Indian wickeup sheltered them from the rigors of the storm and the iuclemency of the weather. The wikl hearts of the woods were their night visitors, prowling about and making night hideous with their unearthly noises, and working the nerves of women, and often, perhaps of men, up to a tension that precluded the possibility of sleep and rest. Neighbors lived many miles away, and visits were rare and highly appreciated.
LAW AND ORDER PREVAIL.
Law and order prevailed almost exclusively, and locks and bars to doors were then unknown, and the only thing to fear in human shape were the petty depredations by Indians. For food they had the fruit of the chase, which afforded them ample meat, but bread was sometimes a rarity, and appreciated when had as only those things are which tend most to our com- fort, and which we are able to enjoy the least amount of. But they were happy in that life of freedom from the environments of society and social usage. They breathed the pure, fresh air, untainted by any odor of civilization; they ate the first fruits of the virgin soil, aud grew strong and free on its strength and freedom.
ARRIVAL OF CAPTAIN SUTTER.
The southern portion of California was essentially Spanish and Mexican in its population, while the northern part was left to the occupation of foreigners. The Sacramento valley was comparatively unnoticed until after the settlement of Captain John A. Sutter at New Helvetia, but following that event, it became the theater for grand operations and achievements. Sutter's Fort was the neuclens about which congregated nearly all of the early emigrants, and the annexation of California is largely due to the influence of that gentleman aud those associated with him. Ever hospitable and generous, he was a friend to whom the early settlers and explorers repaired for advice and sustenance.
1839 .- Captain John Augustus Sutter was born in Baden, Germany, at midnight, February 28, 1803, of Swiss parents. After the completion of his education he became a captain in the French army, but becoming tired of the superficial nature of French society and customs, he set out for America, to find some secluded spot where he might surround himself with a home and associations more in consonance with his ideas and tastes. New York was reached in July, 1834, and from there, after a sojourn of only one month, the Captain went to the far-
famed " West." From here he journeyed to New Mexico and having heard of the marvelous beauty and fertility of Califor- nia, he joined a party of trappers, expecting soon to reach his destination. But the journey ended at Fort Vancouver, and Captain Sutter's only way to reach California was to go to the Sandwich Islands and from there to take a sailing ship to Mon- tercy. After waiting a long time in Honolulu he took passage in a ship bound for Sitka. By singular good luck the vessel was driven into San Francisco bay, July 2, 1839.
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