History of San Diego, 1542-1908 : an account of the rise and progress of the pioneer settlement on the Pacific coast of the United States, Volume II, Part 5

Author: Smythe, William Ellsworth, 1861-1922
Publication date: 1907
Publisher: San Diego : History Co.
Number of Pages: 442


USA > California > San Diego County > San Diego > History of San Diego, 1542-1908 : an account of the rise and progress of the pioneer settlement on the Pacific coast of the United States, Volume II > Part 5


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371


THE YEAR OF THE AWAKENING


In the spring of 1871, there was a slight revival of real estate activity following the passage of the Texas & Pacific Railroad bill, but delays ensued, and it was short-lived. In one week we read of Horton selling $3,000 worth of land, and in another $10,000 worth. A good many settlers came, and on June 20th a large party of excursionists arrived from Chicago-the first organized party of real estate excursionists to visit San Diego. Mannasse & Schiller's wharf was built during the summer, the first planing mill established in September, and the first skating rink in October. The total number of buildings erected in the vear was 51, which included a court house, the Presby- terian church, and a number of business blocks. The drought of the preceding year continued and materially affected condi- tions. The population was estimated at 2,500, and the number of business buildings was 69.


The year 1872 may be characterized as the Year of the Awak- ening. The effects of Colonel Scott's activities were felt in its closing months, and confidence in his transcontinental project began to grow in the far-off Pacific port. In August, "property is buoyant." In November, Horton's block on the southwest corner of Third and D Streets, for the use of the Texas & Pacific as an office building, was under way, and real estate began to be in brisk demand.


At the close of the year, the business houses in San Diego were as follows: Two commission houses; two wholesale liquor houses ; two millinery stores; seven hotels; three fancy goods stores; two saddlery stores; three dry goods stores; three him- ber yards; two furniture stores; four drug stores; two tin- ware stores, two book stores, five livery stables, two fruit stores; one bank; twenty-three saloons ("they dispense," says the World, "an excellent article of whiskey") ; one boot and shoe store; one sash, door, and building furnisher; two Chinese stores; two jewelry stores; four restaurants ; two breweries ; one foundry; twenty general merchandise stores; two steam plan- ing, turning, and scroll saw mills; and one steam flour mill.


Concerning the prevailing prices of real estate, the Union says: "Real estate during the last few months has been stead- ily appreciating in value. Lots situated on the city front within a couple of blocks on each side of the Pacific Mail Company's wharf have a market value of $500 to $2,500 per lot measuring 100x50 feet. On Fifth Street, the main business street of the city, lots range in value from $1,200 to $2,000; on Seventh Street from $800 to $1,200. Residence lots within the boun- daries of Horton's Addition are valued and selling at from $225 to $800 per lot. Outside of Horton's Addition, but within a mile and a quarter of the business center of the city, lots vary


372


HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO


in value from $50 to $100 each. One and one-half miles out lands are now selling at $150 per acre. Lands situated two and a quarter miles from the heart of the city can be purchased at $30 an acre." The sales of real estate during the year amounted to $466,404.


By the opening of 1873, the rising tide of excitement was run- ning strong. The newspapers urged the people to build more houses at once, saying the population had been increasing stead- ily for five months and that there was a scarcity of houses.


A list of Horton's enterprises, complete and pending, made in April, showed the following :


The Horton House was erected by him at a cost of $125,000. Built present residence of Thomas L. Nesmith at cost of $8,000 or $9,000. Building corner Sixth and G, containing present hall, cost about $8,000. Present residence corner A and Sixth, cost $4,500. Block bounded Second and Third, A and B, im- proved at cost of about $3,500. Lot corner Second and B, improved, $3,000. Lot J, same block, fronting on Third Street, $800. Lot J, on First between C and D, $1,500. Horton's Hall, Sixth and F, cost $10,000. Building corner Ninth and H, $1,500. Wharf now owned by Pacific Mail Company, $40,000. Two buildings on First Street between H and I, and a number of other smaller ones. Bank building now under way, $40,000 to $50.000.


On May 22d, the Union published the following review of building operations :


The list includes new residence of Mr. Horton, residence of Captain A. H. Wilcox; Mr. Gerichten's residence; new brick store for McDonald & Company; Backesto's brick building on Fifth Street; Hiscock's brick building on south side of Horton House square, corner of Third Street; brick building of Veazie & Shuler, northwest corner D and Third, now occupied by Com- mercial Bank; Bayly's San Diego Foundry and Machine shop, corner Eighth and M Streets; Hanlon & Fulkerson's steam plan- ing mill; Dievendorf's new store on Sixth Street; brick addi- tion to store of J. Nash; D. Cleveland's new office on Sixth Street ; addition to Young's furniture factory corner Third and G Streets ; residence of Mr. Josse, beyond Bay View Hotel ; new Market House fronting on Fifth and Sixth Streets; Horton's iron and brick bank building, corner Third and D Streets ; large brick addition to S. W. Craigue's wholesale liquor house ; Veazie and Russell's large double house, residence building on Third Street ; residence of L. B. Willson ; residence of Mr. G. Geddes on C Street; Mr. Phipp's residence in Chollas Valley; Mum- ford's building on Fifth Street; Captain Knapp's residence on First Street; residence of D. O. McCarthy on Spring Avenue ;


VIEW OF SAN DIEGO IN 1873, SIX YEARS AFTER HORTON CAME From a lithograph drawn by A. L. Mathews, published by A. L. Bancroft & Co., San Francisco


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374


HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO


and new residence building on Eighth Street-twenty-five build- ings in all, total cost about $147,000.


Notwithstanding the anxiety and suspicion due to delay in the building of the Texas & Pacific Railroad, yet within the year Colonel Scott held his famous meeting in San Diego, the sur- veys were made, the old San Diego & Gila subsidy lands were transferred to his company, and work was actually commenced on the construction of the road. The failure of Jay Cooke & Company occurred early in December, as well as Scott's failure in Europe, and the new year in San Diego begun in gloom, but considerable progress had been made.


"In 1867," says the Union, whistling cheerfully to keep up courage, "less than 100 people lived here, and there were not more than a dozen houses. Today, it is a city of nearly a thou- sand houses and a population of over 4,000." A total of 4,050 passengers had arrived by sea and land, and 2,381 departed, giving a net gain of 1,669 in the population. The agricultural development was quite remarkable, the total acreage of farm lands assessed being 825,263, and the total valuation $1,263,542. But the rapid growth of both city and country was sharply checked by the Scott failure, population declined, and doubt, uncertainty, and discouragement prevailed. Mr. L. A. Wright says, in a newspaper sketch :


The population of San Diego had grown until it was quite a busy city, but Scott's failure stopped almost every enter- prise and the population dwindled down to about 2500. Many poor people had purchased land of Mr. Horton, having made a payment of one-fourth or one-third down, the rest to be paid by installments. Of this class a great many were thrown out of employment and were compelled to leave town. They met Mr. Horton on the street every day and offered to let him keep the money already paid if he would only release their contracts so that they could get away. Every man who thus approached the founder of the town was whirled into Mr. Horton's office, his contract surrendered, and every cent paid upon the contract was returned, dollar for dollar.


An old citizen, referring to this period, says: "Following this, there were eight or ten quiet years here, years of real enjoyment for the people who had come here for their health and wanted to live here. The business men had no competition, there were no political bosses; the people were generally united and there was very little wrangling. The town grew slowly, but there was no boom."


That the years were quiet, the historian, from an examination of the records, can testify. A year's file of the newspapers scarcely furnishes a single item for this chapter. At times great despondency prevailed. The county was prosperous in 1876.


375


ENCOURAGING PROGRESS


A few events of commercial importance occurred. In March, 1873, the Commercial Bank, the second bank in San Diego, was opened for business. The Julian mines continued to prosper. The San Diego River was permanently turned back into False Bay, and the destruction of San Diego's harbor by it stopped, in 1877.


Douglas Gunn writes :


The prospects of the harbor as a railroad terminus consti- tuted the leading stimulus to the growth of the new city; but the people soon began to give attention to the development of the resources of the country; and when it was found that pa- tience must be exercised under delay in railroad affairs, the people were prepared to exercise that virtue. No community has ever exhibited greater courage and stronger faith than that of San Diego. . The commerce of the port has steadily increased; roads have been built to the interior; farms and orchards have been cultivated; mines have been opened; and in spite of "hard times," the county has con- tinually grown in population and wealth.


CHAPTER V


SOME ASPECTS OF LOCAL LIFE


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T


HE first hotel of the Horton period was known as "New San Diego Hotel" and was kept by Captain S. S. Dunnells. It was located in one of the ready-framed buildings of 1850, and still stands on the northeast corner of State and F Streets. Mrs. Dunnells says of the town at the time of their arrival :


"The only water in the place was in a well near where the court house now stands. The soldiers' burying ground was back of where the Horton House was afterwards built. The bodies were later moved to the military cemetery. Some Indians had their huts on what is now Florence Heights. Mrs. Mathew Sherman was our only neighbor; she lived near her present residence. There was also a German in charge of Mannasse & Schiller's lumber yards. One day Mrs. Horton took me out to show me the great improvements that were being made. It was a party of two men, cutting brush up near where the Horton House stood in later days."


The first school was taught by Mrs. H. H. Dougherty, in the old government barracks building. The first religious service was also held in the same place, in 1868, by Rev. Sidney Wil- bur. A number of the early comers lived in this old building for a short time after their arrival, until accommodations could be provided for them elsewhere.


The "Exposition Circus Company," which arrived January 19, 1869, gave the first exhibition of the kind at new San Diego. They pitched their tent on State Street, near the New San Diego Hotel.


Joseph Nash opened the first general store in new San Diego. in a building still standing on the southeast corner of State and G Streets, now occupied by H. Kerber. The first drug store was also in this building. Mr. Nash, on his opening day, gave each lady in new San Diego a dress pattern. Among his clerks were Charles S. Hamilton, George W. Marston, and A. B. Mckean. He continued in business at San Diego many years, and is well remembered by old inhabitants. He is supposed to be still liv- ing, in San Francisco.


377


FIRST BIG CELEBRATION


The first building erected in Horton's Addition was the one- story frame building still standing on the east side of Sixth Street below J, numbered 357. It was first used by Mr. Horton as an office, and is now used as a Chinese laundry.


The postoffice at Horton's Addition was established in May, 1869, and Dr. Jacob Allen was the first postmaster. The post- office was a one-story frame building, on Fifth below F. It was officially known as "South San Diego" for several years. The change to plain San Diego was due to John G. Capron, who per- sonally saw the assistant postmaster-general at Washington, and the manager of the express company, at New York, and had the change made, and at the same time changed Old San Diego to "North San Diego." The people were surprised when these


CITY BREWERY.


FIFTH AND B STREETS IN 1875


The large building shown in the picture stood on the northwest corner and faced south on B Street


changes were made, and it was a long time before it was known how they were brought about.


The first public gathering of importance in new San Diego . was the celebration of the Fourth of July, in 1869. This was an occasion long remembered by the inhabitants. The celebra- tion was kept up for three days and nights, and "commenced on Saturday last at South San Diego and terminated in danc- ing and merrymaking at Monument City and Old Town on Mon- day night, or rather, on Tuesday morning. From the commence- ment to the close there has been, so far as we could hear, but one idea prevailing-to express genuine feelings of patriotism and have a good time. We believe the people of this city have


378


HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO


given more time and had more real pleasure the past three days than has ever been known here before."


The celebration at South San Diego was held in the large warerooms of Mr. Horton. Cannon were fired and there was a procession. G. W. B. McDonald was president of the day, Rev. Sidney Wilbur offered the prayer, the Declaration of Inde- pendence was read by Captain Mathew Sherman, and the ora- tion was by Daniel Cleveland. The Union says :


The oration of Mr. Cleveland was at once calm, dispassion- ate, thoughtful, and scholarly. Rapidly reviewing the history of the country from its first settlement to the war for inde- pendence, and thence on up to the present time, he clearly stated the lessons taught us in the birth agonies and fearful


ʻ


NORTH SIDE OF K STREET Between Fifth and Sixth in the early '70's


life struggles from time to time of our noble war-scarred Re- public; and in setting forth Patriotism, Love of Country, and fidelity to her constituted authorities, as a religious duty, im- posed by God himself, and from which no earthly power can free us, he struck a chord which met with an answering re- sponse in every true patriot's heart.


In April, 1870, there were ten stores in new San Diego: Joseph Nash, J. S. Mannasse & Co., McDonald & Co., A. Pauly & Sons, Bush & Hinds, Lowenstein & Co., J. Connell, Whaley & Crosthwaite, Steiner & Klauber, and A. B. McKean & Co.


In May of this year occurred the opening of Horton's Hall as a theater .. In the following July, Rosario Hall was opened, with a ball.


On April 27, 1871, the Union says :


379


LARGE PROPERTY-OWNERS


We are called upon to chronicle this week the first wreck which has ever occurred in San Diego Bay. During the gale on Sunday afternoon, the "Cosay" bath house broke from its moorings at Horton's wharf and drifted out to deep water, where it foundered and went to pieces in a very few moments.


In October, 1871, the city cemetery, Mount Hope, so named by Mrs. Sherman, was set aside for its use by the trustees. The tract contains about 200 acres, and is on the mesa east of the end of M Street.


In this month occurred the first murder in the history of new San Diego. Alexander J. Fenwick shot and killed Charles Wil- son, in Mannasse's lumber yard. Wilson had an Indian wife whom he accused of infidelity with Fenwick. The murderer was tried, and found guilty; the case was appealed, and early in 1873 the Supreme Court affirmed the decision. Fenwick found means to secure poison, which he took, and died in the jail March 24, 1873-the day set for his execution. Mrs. Wilson also killed herself with poison.


In February, 1872, the assessor's books showed the following list of substantial citizens :


A. E. Horton was assessed for $124,971


John Forster


87,681


Kimball Bros. 52,849


Sublett, Felsenhield & Co. 42,156


San Diego & Gila R. R. Co.


41,899


Heirs of Miguel de Pedrorena, deceased. 36,766


Louis Rose 36,330


P. W. Smith 35,700


J. S. Mannasse Co 38,566


Cave J. Couts.


26,122


Bank of San Diego


20,000


A. F. Hinchman.


16,195


Joseph Nash


15,720


Refugio Olivera (Santa María rancho)


15,374


E. W. Morse.


14,840


John Wolfskill


14,559


Levi Chase


14,100


Hawthorn & Wilcox.


13,465


Estate of José Antonio Aguirre, deceased. 21,500


Robert Allison


13,238


Estate of James Hill, deceased.


11,616


S. S. Culverwell.


11,113


McDonald & Co


10,165


Juan Salazar


10,000


Louis Hauck


9,099


As an interesting picture of conditions at the time, the fol- lowing list of business men advertising in the World in its first number (July 25, 1872), has been preserved :


380


HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO


R. R. Morrison, watchmaker and jeweler.


E. D. Switzer, dealer in watches, etc.


J. A. Shepherd, Notary Public and Insurance Agent.


A. P. Frary, proprietor of Frary's Addition to New San Diego. John H. Richardson, painter and carpet upholsterer.


A. E. Horton, proprietor of Horton's extension of New Town. Briant & Lowell, feed and sale stables.


J. A. Allen & Son, pioneer drug store.


J. M. Matthias, general merchandise and commission.


C. P. Fessenden, photographs.


VIEW TAKEN FROM THE CORNER OF SEVENTH AND A STREETS IN 1875


The one-story building in the foreground at the left is still standing. The present site of the B Street School adjoins it on the south


The Horton House. Steiner & Klauber, general merchandise. Dr. D. B. Hoffman, has resumed full practice. J. C. Hayes & Co., real estate agents. Hathaway & Foster, dealers in house builders goods.


Smith & Craigue, wholesale wines, liquors and cigars.


Linforth, Kellogg & Co., San Francisco, hardware & machinery. Collins, Wheaton & Luhrs, San Francisco, provisions. Marshall & Haight, San Francisco, provisions.


Murphy, Grant & Co., San Francisco, dry goods.


381


MEN WHO ADVERTISED


J. W. Gale, general merchandise.


United States Restaurant. J. Nash, general merchandise.


Culverwell & Jorres, commission, feed and grain.


E. W. Morse, insurance agent.


Era House, Wm. Townsley, proprietor.


Luckett's Station on the Julian Road; George Kendall, prop. Allen's Lung Balsam; Redington, Hostetter & Co., agents San Francisco.


PANTECH


LOOKING UP FIFTH STREET FROM K ABOUT 1875


This very interesting picture is a good representation of the main thoroughfare as it appeared some thirty years ago. It also shows that part of the business section of the city east of Fifth Street, as it then appeared


Gordon & Hazzard, general merchandise, National City. A. Pauly & Sons, general merchandise. A. J. Chase, real estate.


Clark & Harbison, bees.


Pacific Mail Steamship Co., C. P. Taggart, agent.


N. P. Transportation Co., Culverwell & Jorres, agents.


Smith & Craigue, wines and liquors.


The Florence Sewing Machine, Samuel Hill, agent, San Francisco.


Grover & Baker's Sewing Machine, H. B. Hirschey, agent for San Diego.


382


HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO


Major Ben. C. Truman, writing in the World, states a num- ber of matters humorously, thus :


The bulk of our population are invalids; the rest realize Burke's description of the French revolutionists. He char- acterized these worthies as "calculators, sophists, and econo- mists."' The phrase "sophisters" may be justly elided, be- cause our people have all come here with a sagacious pro- vision of the future.


Apropos of coming here, pretty much everybody has come to San Diego some time or other. In the innocence of your heart, you mention some illustrious or notorious name to a San Diegan; and, instantly, he begins, "When so-and-so lived here," etc. The stranger is astonished at the range of this inventory of famous people. It includes such names as those of Sher- man, Thomas, Rosecrans, Kearny, Magruder, and an endless list of other military celebrities. Wm. H. Seward has hob- nobbed with our citizens, and Old Town is still redolent of the jokes of the brightest spirits that have lived in the land, from "John Phoenix" to J. Bankhead Magruder and his cor- poral, Johnny Murray. We have the old time peo- ple, who used to sit 'round with John Phoenix and crack royal quips. Many of these old stagers don't believe in their souls that we shall ever have a railroad. They play "pitch" and "seven-up" and look pityingly upon the poor dupes who ex- pect to ever see a railroad approach our bay. They have seen so many fizzles that they really believe that the mighty Railroad King is as big a "Jeremy Diddler" as John Charles Frémont. They have all obeyed the injunction to "laugh and grow fat," and they are all repositories of the juiciest stories ever told on earth. On the whole, San Diego has a good, strong, humorous, cultivated, and devil-may-care popu- lation, which is worthy of the best fortune can do for them, and can sustain the worst.


Probably the genial Major was thinking, at the time he wrote this, of a few of the more convivial residents of Old Town, who were somewhat noted for their ability to drink long and deep.


Mrs. F. L. Nash wrote concerning her experience in San Diego, during the "Tom Scott" boom:


A more congenial, delightful class of people would be hard to find. Out-of-door excursions were even more common than at present, and the picnic basket was always within easy reach, ready to be filled at a moment's notice. Point Loma, Coronado, La Jolla, Rose Canyon, and El Cajon were just as popular resorts as at present.


Early in December, 1875, a gang of Sonorran bandits made a raid on the town of Campo and tried to plunder the store of the Gaskill brothers. A bloody fight ensued, in which the Gas- kills killed one of the robbers, wounded three others, and were themselves badly wounded. (Bancroft says that Luman H.


383


COUNTY SEAT REMOVAL


Gaskill was killed; as a matter of fact, he is alive and well, : today.) The citizens of Campo hanged two of the captured bandits. This attack was so bold and in such force, that con- siderable excitement was caused throughout San Diego County. A public meeting was held in San Diego, and a guard sent for the protection of the settlers at Campo. A few days later, Gen- eral Scofield sent a company of cavalry there, and the trouble blew over.


In February, 1876, little Grace Frary, daughter of Captain A. P. Frary, became lost while the family were moving, and remained out wandering about all night. The next day she was found by a company of cavalry which had been ordered out to aid in the search, asleep at the foot of the bluffs, near the salt works.


The Chinese came to San Diego in considerable numbers, at an early day. From the early 70's, they were practically the only help employed in the hotels, and, as is their custom, they soon built up a "Chinatown." At the time of the anti-Chinese riots in other parts of the state in 1877, an effort was made to provoke an attack upon the Chinese quarters in San Diego. A written agreement pledging the signers to assist in ridding the town of the Chinese was circulated, and persons refusing to sign were threatened and even assaulted. The better class of citizens, becoming aware of this, took prompt action. A meet- ing was held, addresses made, a committee of public safety enrolled, and a watch kept. General McDowell ordered that this committee should have the use of any government arms they might need. These energetic measures entirely squelched the threatened riot.


One of the earliest elements in the rivalry between old and new San Diego was the question of the removal of the county seat, and the seat of the city government, to the new town. This agitation began early in 1869. On June 23d, the Union, which was then published at Old Town, said that "the county is $90,000 in debt and there is not a decent public building in it." There was a general agreement that new public buildings were needed, but the question was, where should they be built? The contest grew hot. On the one side were the residents and prop- erty owners of Old Town, who felt that such a change meant ruin for them, and on the other, the ambitious newcomers to Horton's Addition, who soon began to outnumber their oppo- nents. On July 9, 1870, the board of supervisors ordered the removal of the county records from the old town to the new. Judge Morrison, of the district court, immediately required the clerk to make all writs issued from his court returnable in Old Town. County Judge Thomas H. Bush issued an order direct-


384


HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO


ing the sheriff to use force, if necessary, to prevent the removal of the records, and a posse of citizens was summoned to aid the sheriff, a cannon planted and guard mounted in front of the jail. The Union put it that Old Town had seceded, and that "Lieut .- Gen. Bush, in command of the artillery, threw up earth- works in front of the jail and placed the field piece in position, and now the immortal Bush, seated astride of the plaza cannon, his soul glowing with heroic emotion, exclaims: 'This rock shall fly from its firm base as soon as I!' "'


The supervisors at the time were Joseph C. Riley, E. D. French, and G. W. B. McDonald. In September, 1870, Judge Bush removed them from office and appointed Charles Thomas,




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