USA > California > San Diego County > San Diego county, California; a record of settlement, organization, progress and achievement, Volume I > Part 15
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24 | Part 25 | Part 26 | Part 27 | Part 28 | Part 29 | Part 30 | Part 31 | Part 32 | Part 33 | Part 34 | Part 35 | Part 36 | Part 37 | Part 38 | Part 39 | Part 40 | Part 41 | Part 42 | Part 43 | Part 44 | Part 45 | Part 46 | Part 47 | Part 48 | Part 49 | Part 50 | Part 51 | Part 52 | Part 53
By the time the Americans began to settle at San Diego otters were not so common in the bay, but along the coast of Lower California and its adjacent islands there was still good hunting. Philip Crosthwaite was one of the earliest and best known otter hunters. He stated that there were two companies of hunters at San Diego, in 1845, which were fitted out each season by Captain Fitch. The hunting season was during the spring and summer months, when the otters could be found among the kelp, often asleep, and shot with rifles from boats. This work required a peculiar equipment of patience, keen sight, steady nerves and marksmanship. Each company sent out three canoes together which hunted in the day and lay up on the beach at night. There were places on the shore known to the hunters, where wood and water could be found and at night they landed at such spots through the surf and made their camp. As late as 1857, two otter hunters were drowned in the surf on the beach near Point Loma, while trying to land in a small boat. Otters are of course now extinct in this vicinity. In 1845 the skins were worth $40 each at Fitch's store. There are no statistics of the extent and value of the otter catch but it was very considerable.
That strange animal, the sea-elephant, was also a native of this coast, and for a short time was a victim of the chase. Very early settlers tell how, on stormy days, the yelps of the elephants lying on the sand at what is now Coro- nado Beach could be heard in San Diego above the roar of the breakers. They were also plentiful in the haunts of the otter, along the coasts and islands of Lower California. They seem never to have formed an extensive object of the chase by the population. The story of their destruction is short and sad. Some of the Yankee whalers heard of them and conceived the idea that there might be money in elephant oil. There was a rush for them; they were slaughtered by thousands and soon exterminated. It is said that some of these ships secured an entire cargo of elephant oil in a single season's chase. At any rate these curi- ous animals are gone forever from these parts. And does the reader ask "What is a sea-elephant?" Merely a big seal-the biggest of his family-with a snout so prolonged as to be suggestive of an elephant.
The Spanish population never pursued the chase, either by land or sea, with noteworthy daring and vigor. It was great sport for the expert vaqueros to lasso a bear now and then and lead him home, to be baited to death by dogs and bulls. It never occurred to their uncommercial souls that this sort of thing could be turned into a money-making enterprise. Cattle were plentiful and cheap. Why should a man incur fatigue and danger in the pursuit of articles of luxury which the state of society did not require? Such things were left to the restless and incomprehensible Americans. Cattle were something the Spanish could under-
115
HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO COUNTY
stand, and it was all very well to shoot an otter now and then as it lay asleep in the sun on beach or kelp; but to spend one's days amidst the toil and danger of the ocean chase was much too strenuous. The finest of otter skins were worth no more than the hides of four or five bullocks, and there was neither use nor sale for whale oil until the American ships came.
The story of the American whaling trade in the Pacific is one of the most picturesque and romantic in our history and the half has never been told. The enterprise, hardihood, daring and skill which made it possible, form a worthy sequel to the wonder tales of England's Elizabethan age. This chase began long before the Mexican war and still continues to a limited extent. The chief rendezvous of the whale ships was first at the Sandwich Islands and later at San Francisco. In 1855 their number had reached five hundred, but it was not until ten years later that San Francisco became the headquarters. Whales were known to exist on the coast from the time of the earliest settlements. Father Crespi has left it on record that upon his arrival at San Pablo bay, in March, 1772, he saw whales spouting, and there is no doubt the same phenomenon had been observed here, where whales were no less plentiful.
As late as the early '40s, San Diego bay was a favorite resort for female whales in their calving season, and at such times, on any bright day, scores of them could be seen spouting and basking in the sunlight. On North Island there was a spring which the inhabitants of La Playa were in the habit of visiting in canoes to get a supply of fresh water. Often when these whales were passing in or out, it was deemed unsafe to cross, and the boatmen had to wait for hours. But when the chase began in earnest and steamers began to visit the harbor, the whales abandoned the place and went farther down the coast. They still passed by near the shore, however, in the winter and spring months, and came in near Ballast Point in great numbers. Andrew Cassidy says he often counted as many as eleven whales inside Ballast Point, all spouting at one time, and in January, 1872, it is on record that fifteen were seen at one time.
Dana tells this story regarding an adventure with a whale at San Pedro:
"This being the spring season, San Pedro, as well as all the other open ports upon the coast, was filled with whales that had come in to make their annual visit upon soundings. For the first few days that we were here and at Santa Barbara we watched them with great interest, calling out 'There she blows.' every time we saw the spout of one breaking the surface of the water; but they soon became so common that we took little notice of them. We once very nearly ran one down in a gig, and should probably have been knocked to pieces or blown sky high. We had been on board the little Spanish brig, and were returning, stretching out well at our oars, the little boat going like a swallow; our backs were forward, and the captain, who was steering, was not looking out, when all at once we heard the spout of a whale directly ahead. 'Back water ! back water, for your lives!' shouted the captain, and we backed our blades in the water and brought the boat to in a smother of foam. Turning our heads, we saw a great, rough, hump-backed whale slowly crossing our forefoot, within three or four yards of the boat's stem. Had we not backed water just as we did we should inevitably have gone smash upon him. He took no notice of us, but passed slowly. on, and dived a few yards beyond us, throwing his tail high in the air."
The whales passed south from December to February, and on their return
116
HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO COUNTY
trip north in March and April. The local whale companies were formed early in the '50s at San Diego and other places, notably at Monterey, and they con- tinued in business for many years and were very successful. The business began to assume importance here in 1853. In February, 1858, the company of whale- men at La Playa had killed "about a dozen" whales since they commenced opera- tions, "only five of which they have been able to get into port." These five yielded one hundred and fifty barrels of oil, worth about $2,000. Editor Ames expressed the opinion that if some means could be devised to prevent the whales from sinking, a good business could be done in catching them within ten miles of the harbor. A little later they captured five in as many days, each of which produced from thirty-five to forty barrels of oil. By 1868 the business had grown so that there were two companies with twenty men at work in the boats and a dozen rendering the oil, and it had become a favorite diversion of San Diegans to go out to the lighthouse and watch the chase.
In the season of 1870-1, the yield of oil was twenty-one thousand, eight hun- dred and eighty-eight gallons, and in 1871-2 it was estimated at fifty-five thou- sand gallons and two hundred pounds of whalebone were collected. In 1873-4, twenty-one thousand, six hundred gallons, and in 1874-5 four hundred barrels of oil were produced. As late as 1886 three hundred barrels of oil were made and about a thousand pounds of whalebone gathered. In the 'Sos the business was declining, however, and soon became unprofitable and was abandoned.
The trying works were on Ballast Point. The captured whales were towed in and cut up and the flesh thrown into two large iron pots, having a capacity of one hundred and fifty gallons each. At each pot was stationed a man with a large strainer, whose business it was to fish out the pieces of blubber as fast as they became sufficiently browned. These pieces were then pressed to extract the oil, after which the refuse was used for fuel. It seems to have burned very well but made a "villainous stench." The oil was ladled into casks and when cool was stored awaiting shipment.
The method of killing the whales was by a bomb lance from small boats. At first the work seems to have been unskillfully done, but in later years it was car- ried to great perfection. The whales were of the gray species. No reliable sta- tistics can be given as to the total output but it ran well into the thousands of barrels and was an important article of export. Among the older citizens of San Diego are several who came here to engage in this chase, and followed it for many years. The only remains now left of this interesting period are the verte- brae of whales which are used as ornaments and may still be seen in many San Diego dooryards. The Society of Natural History has also collected some valu- able relics, which are preserved in the public library building. Such were some of the principal commercial features affecting the early life of the place.
Following is a list of ranchos of San Diego county, showing the number of acres in each rancho, names of grantees, and date each grant was confirmed. The names of the grantees do not represent the present proprietors, the owner- ship having changed, in many cases, since the confirmation of the grant:
Santa Marharita and Las Flores-Owner, Pio & Andres Pico; 89,742.93 acres. Ex-Mission of San Diego-Owner, Santiago Arguello; grant confirmed, 1846; 58, 208.00 acres.
117
HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO COUNTY
San Jacinto Nuevo-Owner, Miguel de Pedrorena; grant confirmed, 1846; 48,823.67 acres.
El Cajon-Owner, Maria Antonia Estudillo de Pedrorena ; 48,799.34 acres.
Santa Rosa-Owner, Juan Moreno; grant confirmed, October 10, 1872 ; 47,815.10 acres.
San Jacinto Viejo-Owner, Jose Ant. Estudillo ; grant confirmed, 1846; 35,504.00 acres.
Cuyamaca-Owner, Augustin Olvera; 35,501.32 acres.
La Nicion (National Rancho)-Owner, John Forster ; grant confirmed, August 3, 1858; 26,631.94 acres.
San Jose del Valle (Warner's Ranch)-Owner, J. J. Warner ; grant confirmed, 1846; 26,629.88 acres.
Pauba-Owner, Luis Vignes; grant confirmed, January 19, 1860; 26,597.96 acres. Temecula-Owner, Luis Vignes; grant confirmed, January 18, 1860; 26,608.94 acres.
Sobrante de San Jacinto-Owner, Miguel de Pedrorena and Rosario E. de Aguirre ; 22,195.00 acres.
San Bernardo-Owner, Jose Francisco Snook; 17,763.07 acres.
Santa Ysabel-Owner, Jose Joaquin Ortega et al .; grant confirmed, May 4, 1872; 17,719.40 acres.
Santa Maria (Valle de Pamo)-Owner, Jose Joaquin Ortega et al .; grant con- firmed, July 30, 1872; 17,708.85 acres. .
San Vincente-Owner, Juan Lopez; grant confirmed, 1846; 13,539.96 acres.
La Laguna-Owner, Abel Stearns ; grant confirmed, September 3, 1872; 13,338.80 acres.
Monserrate-Owner, Ysidro Maria Alvarado; grant confirmed, July 17, 1872; 13.322.90 acres.
Valle de las Viejas-Owner, Ramon & Leandro Osuna; grant confirmed, 1846; 13,314.00 acres.
Agua Hedionda-Owner, Juan Maria Marron ; 13,3II.OI acres.
Pauma-Owner, Jose Ant. Serrano, Jose Aguilar & Blas Aguilar ; grant con- firmed, August 29, 1871 ; 13,309.60 acres.
Guejito-Owner, George W. Hamley ; grant confirmed, May 24, 1866; 13,298.59 acres.
Rincon del Diablo-Owner, Heirs of Juan Bautista Alvarado; grant confirmed, May 3, 1872 ; 12,653.77 acres.
San Felipe-Owner, Juan Forster; grant confirmed, August 6, 1866; 9.972.08 acres.
San Marcos-Owner, Jose Maria Alvarado; 8,978.29 acres.
Jamacha-Owner, Apolinaria Lorenzana; 8,881.16 acres.
Jamul-Owner, Pio Pico; 8,876.00 acres.
La Jolla-8,872.00 acres.
San Dieguito-Owner, Juan Maria Osuna ; 8,824.71 acres.
Penasquitas-Owner, Francisco Maria Ruiz & Francisco M. Alvarado; 8,486.01 acres.
Otay-Owner, Magdalena Estudillo et al .; grant confirmed, 1846; 6,557.98 acres. Tecate -- Owner, Juan Bandini; 4,439.00 acres.
118
HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO COUNTY
Janal-Owner, Victoria Dominguez ; grant confirmed, June 30, 1872; 4,436.00 acres.
Los Encinitos-Owner, Andres Ybarra ; grant confirmed, April 18, 1871 ; 4,431.03 acres.
Island or Peninsula of San Diego-Owner, Archibald C. Peachey & William H. Aspinwall; grant confirmed, June II, 1869; 4,185.46 acres.
Guajome-Owner, Andres & Jose Manuel ( Indians) ; 2,219.41 acres.
Buena Vista-Owner, Felipe (an Indian) ; 2,219.08 acres.
Potrero San Juan Capistrano ; 1,167.74 acres.
El Cariso and La Cienega ; 1,167.00 acres.
Ex-Mission of San Luis Rey; Owner, Bishop J. S. Alemany ; grant confirmed, March 10, 1865; 53-39 acres.
Ex-Mission of San Diego; Owner, Bishop Alemany; grant confirmed, May 23, 1862; 22.21 acres.
CHAPTER XV
LOOKING BACKWARD
"Two years ago," wrote Major Ben C. Truman, in 1869, "San Diego seemed to be among the things that were. Only two families were living here and but three houses were left standing. About that time a Mr. A. E. Horton came this way and purchased from the city three quarter-sections of land adjoining the plot known as New Town; and, having it surveyed, called it Horton's Addition. A few months after, a -x- wiry, rusty-looking man might have been seen upon the streets of San Francisco with a long tin horn in his hand, containing New San Diego and Horton's Addition-on paper-purchased by the gentleman for the sum of $220. Lots of people laughed at the rusty-looking proprietor of the long tin horn and said he was a fool who had thrown away his money, and many a quarter-section had the trustees to sell to all such real estate spooneys. * Two years have passed away and the contents of that tin horn describe, in point of site, facilities for living, climate, etc., the most comfortable and one of the most flourishing towns in southern California, if not in the state.
"I saw Mr. Horton yesterday. He looks just as he did two years ago. I should judge that he had on the same suit of clothes now as then. But he no longer packs about that tin horn. He rides behind a good horse and resides in an elegant mansion, with a garden adjoining containing all kinds of vegetables and flowers, and all kinds of young fruit and ornamental trees and shrubs. There are 226 blocks in Horton's Addition, each containing twelve lots 50x100 feet. Early in the history of this town, Mr. Horton gave away some twenty odd blocks and sold twice that number for a few hundred dollars a block. During the past year he has sold over $100,000 worth of blocks and lots at large figures. He has been very generous and has helped many a poor man to get along, provided he seemed inclined to help himself. He has given each of the religious denomina- tions a piece of ground upon which to erect a church and has subscribed toward the putting up of a pretentious edifice."
The means which Horton used to encourage building in his town and to stimulate the sale of real estate have been described. His success was phe- nomenal from the beginning. The first number of the Union, October 3, 1868, contains the following notes of the progress of improvements in the new town:
"Culverwell's wharf has reached into the bay about 150 feet since we were on it last. It was covered with freight, landed from the schooner John Hunter, through the assistance of a lighter. We noticed a large amount of feed, house- hold and kitchen furniture, agricultural implements, etc *
* also a great number of doors and window frames for the large hotel Mr. Dunnells is about erecting on the corner of Fifth and F streets-also some fine lumber for Judge
119
120
HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO COUNTY
Hyde, who is about erecting two or more fine buildings one of which is to be built opposite the site of Dunnells hotel ; also a large lot of lime, lumber and other merchandise for Messrs. Mannasse & Company, who are now engaged in building two frame sheds near the wharf * * * Near the wharf Mr. Elliott has about completed a new building A little farther back stands a building belonging to a Mr. Hooper, which has recently been opened as a billiard saloon. Mr. Nash had added twenty feet to his store, which gives it a fine appearance and makes one of the largest store rooms in San Diego. Passing around to Mr. Horton's wharf, we observed families of emigrants, who had just arrived, camping out upon the ground they had cleared for future homes. Hor- ton's wharf now reaches out into the bay five hundred feet and the piles have been driven * * some eighty or ninety feet beyond. We discovered some twenty new buildings in the course of construction.
"On November 21st, the Union found that 'the evidences of improvement, progress and prosperity are visible on every side * * * Buildings are in process of erection in all directions. Lots are being cleared rapidly in the Hor- ton Extension *
* * Mr. Horton is selling from $600 to $1,000 worth of lots every day. Restaurants, bakeries, livery stables, furniture stores, black- smith shops, hotels, doctors' offices, wholesale and retail storerooms, saloons and residences are going up-while the wharves are only lagging for the want of the necessary material.'"
The Sherman Addition was laid out and placed on the market in this year, and the Frary Addition in June, 1869. In May, 1869, the Episcopalian Society erected the first house of religious worship in new San Diego, at the northeast corner of Sixth and C streets. The Baptists followed with a building on Seventh street below F, in October. The Methodists were third, with a church on the corner of Fourth and D, which was dedicated February 13, 1870. Each of these societies received a gift of two lots each from Horton.
The hotel kept by Captain Dunnells soon proved inadequate to support the traffic, and late in 1868 Mr. Case began the construction of the hotel on the cor- ner of Fifth and F streets known as the Bay View Hotel-the second hotel erected in new San Diego and the first in Horton's Addition. By December, 1869, the newspapers were complaining of inadequate hotel accommodations, and on the 18th the Bulletin was able to make this proud announcement : "The great need of this town is about to be supplied by A. E. Horton, Esq., who will immediately erect on the northwest corner of Fourth and D streets, a palatial brick edifice, for hotel purposes. It is to contain a hundred rooms and to be fitted up with elegant furniture and all modern improvements." The Horton House, the best hotel of San Diego for many years, was opened October 10, 1870.
Late in 1869, the paper says that "people are coming here by the hundreds- by steamer, by stage, and by private conveyance." And, "from a place of no importance, the home of the squirrel a few months back, we now have a city of three thousand inhabitants. Houses and buildings are going up in every direc- tion. The most substantial improvements are being made * *
* Every steamer from San Francisco averages two hundred newcomers, who are to make their permanent home here. One wharf has not been able to accommodate all the shipping, so another one is in course of construction. The government has
121
HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO COUNTY
decided to make this point headquarters for Lower California and Arizona, and troops are filling the barracks. Fortifications will be built at the entrance to our harbor. The Memphis and El Paso Company will soon have their road open to Arizona, and San Diego will be the natural deport for that country. A branch mint to work out the products of that section, together with our own, will have to be built at San Diego." In this year David Felsenheld built the first brick building at the northwest corner of Sixth and F streets.
In November it is recorded that more than a dozen buildings were erected between the two issues of the newspapers (weekly) ; and a workingman writes to complain of the scarcity of houses and the high rents, which "eat dreadfully into the earnings and wages of mechanics." At the close of the year there were four hundred and thirty-nine buildings and the volume of business transacted in December was over $300,000.
The year 1870 opened with business brisk and real estate active. In March, four weeks' sales aggregated over $50,000. One of the most encouraging fea- tures was the opening of telegraphic communications with the outside world. The need for this convenience had been debated in the newspapers for some months. In the spring, the agents of the Western Union Telegraph Company came and raised by canvass a subscription of $8,000, the amount of the subsidy required. The largest givers were Horton, Morse, San Diego Union and J. S. Mannasse & Company. The whole sum was given by twenty-three individuals and firms. Work was begun upon the line immediately. The poles were dis- tributed from a steamer, being floated from the vessel to the shore-a dangerous service, performed by Captain S. S. Dunnells. The line was completed and the first dispatches sent on August 19, 1870. The event caused much rejoicing.
Many other important enterprises were undertaken and much progress made. The Julian mines were discovered in February, and soon assumed importance. The first gas works were constructed and began operations early in the summer. A daily mail between San Diego and Los Angeles was established in December. School buildings were erected and a high-school building talked about. In June the first bank, the Bank of San Diego, was organized. A long list of substantial buildings, including Horton's Hall and the really remarkable Horton House, were completed. The assessed valuation of the town's real estate rose to $2,282,000, and its personal property to $141,252, all of which had been brought in, or created, in a period of three years. The national census taken in this year showed that the town had a population of two thousand three hundred and one and nine hundred and fifteen occupied houses.
Nevertheless, the year as a whole was considered a discouraging one and closed in gloom. The boomlet soon reached its limit and within a few short weeks was cruelly nipped in the bud. The collapse of the Memphis, El Paso & Pacific project, which occurred early in the year was a blow which it could not withstand. Besides, there was a drought, which added to the discouragement. By May, the Bulletin acknowledged editorially that "times are hard and money scarce," and many men were out of employment. In August, the Union took a philosophical view of the situation: "In spite of the failure of the railroad bill this year, our real estate holds its own, and sales are made at very little reduc- tion (sic) from the rates which have ruled for months past."
In the spring of 1871 there was a slight revival of real-estate activity follow-
122
HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO COUNTY
ing the passage of the Texas & Pacific Railroad bill, but delays ensued, and it was short lived. In one week we read of Horton selling $3,000 worth of land and in another $10,000 worth. A good many settlers came, and on June 20th a large party of excursionists arrived from Chicago-the first organized party of real estate excursionists to visit San Diego. Mannasse & Schiller's wharf was built during the summer, the first planing mill established in September, and the first skating rink in October. The total number of buildings erected in the year was fifty-one, which included a courthouse, the Presbyterian church, and a number of business blocks. The drought of the preceding year continued and materially affected conditions. The population was estimated at two thousand, five hun- dred and the number of business buildings was sixty-nine.
The year 1872 may be characterized as the Year of the Awakening. The effects of Colonel Scott's activities were felt in its closing months, and confidence in his transcontinental project began to grow in the far-off Pacific port. In November, Horton's block on the southwest corner of Third and D streets, for the use of the Texas & Pacific as an office building, was under way, and real estate began to be in brisk demand.
At the close of the year the business houses in San Diego were as follows: Two commission houses, two wholesale liquor houses, two millinery stores, seven hotels, three fancy goods stores, two saddlery stores, three dry-goods stores, three lumberyards, two furniture stores, four drug stores, two tinware stores, two book stores, five livery stables, two fruit stores, one bank, twenty-three saloons, one boot and shoe store, one sash, door and building furnisher, two Chinese stores, two jewelry stores, four restaurants, two breweries, one foundry, twenty general merchandise stores, two steam planing, turning and scroll sawmills, and one steam flour mill.
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.