USA > California > San Diego County > San Diego county, California; a record of settlement, organization, progress and achievement, Volume I > Part 16
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Concerning the prevailing prices of real estate, the Union says: "Real estate during the last few months has been steadily appreciating in value. Lots situ- ated on the city front within a couple of blocks on each side of the Pacific Mail Company's wharf have a market value of $500 to $2,500 per lot measuring 100x 50 feet. On Fifth street, the main business street of the city, lots range in value from $1,200 to $2,000; on Seventh street from $800 to $1,200. Residence lots within the boundaries of Horton's Addition are valued and selling at from $225 to $800 per lot. Outside of Horton's Addition, but within a mile and a quarter of the business center of the city, lots vary in value from $50 to $100 each. One and one-half miles out lands are now selling at $1.50 per acre. Lands situated two and a quarter miles from the heart of the city can be purchased at $30 an acre." The sales of real estate during the year amounted to $466.404.
By the opening of 1873. the rising tide of excitement was running strong. The newspapers urged the people to build more houses at once, saying the popu- lation had been increasing steadily for five months and that there was a scarcity of houses.
A list of Horton's enterprises, complete and pending, made in April, showed the following :
The Horton House was erected by him at a cost of $125,000. Built present residence of Thomas L. Nesmith at cost of $8,000 or $9,000. Building corner Sixth and G, containing present hall, cost about $8,000. Present residence cor- ner A and Sixth, cost $4.500. Block bounded Second and Third, A and B,
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improved at cost of about $3,500. Lot corner Second and B, improved $3,000. Lot J, same block, fronting on Third street, $800. Lot J, on First between C and D, $1,500. Horton's Hall, Sixth and F, cost $10,000. Building corner Ninth and H, $1,500. Wharf now owned by Pacific Mail Company, $40,000. Two buildings on First street between H and I, and a number of other smaller ones. Bank building now under way, $40,000 to $50,000.
On May 22d, the Union published the following review of building opera- tions :
The list includes new residence of Mr. Horton, residence of Captain A. H. Wilcox, Mr. Gerichten's residence, new brick store for McDonald & Company ; Bacesto's brick building on Fifth street; Hiscock's brick building on south side of Horton House square, corner D and Third street; brick building of Veazie & Shuler, northwest corner D and Third; Bayly's San Diego Foundry and Machine Shop, corner Eighth and M streets; Hanlon & Fulkerson's steam planing mill ; Dievendorf's new store on Sixth street; brick addition to store of J. Nash; D. Cleveland's new office on Sixth street ; addition to Young's furniture factory, cor- ner Third and G streets; residence of Mr. Josse, beyond Bay View Hotel; new Market House fronting on Fifth and Sixth streets; Horton's iron and brick bank building, corner Third and D streets; large brick addition to S. W. Craigue's wholesale liquor house; Veazie and Russell's large double house, residence build- ing on Third street; residence of L. B. Willson; residence of G. Geddes on C street ; Mr. Phipp's residence in Chollas Valley; Mumford's building on Fifth street ; Captain Knapp's residence on First street; residence of D. O. McCarthy, on Spring avenue ; and new residence building on Eighth street-twenty-five build- ings in all, total cost about $147,000.
Notwithstanding the anxiety and suspicion due to delay in the building of the Texas & Pacific Railroad, yet within the year Colonel Scott held his famous meet- ing in San Diego, the surveys were made, the old San Diego & Gila subsidy lands were transferred to his company, and work was actually commenced on the con- struction of the road. The failure of Jay Cooke & Company occurred early in December, as well as Scott's failure in Europe, and the new year in San Diego began in gloom, but considerable progress had been made.
"In 1867," says the Union, whistling cheerfully to keep up courage, "less than one hundred people lived here, and there were not more than a dozen houses. Today, it is a city of nearly a thousand houses and a population of over 4,000." A total of four thousand and fifty passengers had arrived by sea and land and two thousand, three hundred and eighty-one departed, giving a net gain of one thousand, six hundred and sixty-nine in the population. The agricultural development was quite remarkable, the total acreage of farm lands assessed being eight hundred and twenty-five thousand, two hundred and sixty-three, and the total valuation $1,263,542. But the rapid growth of both city and county was sharply checked by the Scott failure, population declined, and doubt, uncertainty and discouragement prevailed. L. A. Wright says in a newspaper sketch :
"The population of San Diego had grown until it was quite a busy city, but Scott's failure stopped almost every enterprise and the population dwindled down to about 2,500. Many poor people had purchased land of Mr. Horton, having made a payment of one-fourth or one-third down, the rest to be paid by install- ments. Of this class a great many were thrown out of employment and were
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compelled to leave town. They met Mr. Horton on the street every day and offered to let him keep the money already paid if he would only release their con- tracts so that they could get away. Every man who thus approached the founder of the town was whirled into Mr. Horton's office, his contract surrendered, and every cent paid upon the contract was returned, dollar for dollar."
An old citizen referring to this period says: "Following this there were eight or ten quiet years here, years of real enjoyment for the people who had come here for their health and wanted to live here. The business men had no com- petition, there were no political bosses ; the people were generally united and there was very little wrangling. The town grew slowly but there was no boom."
That the years were quiet, the historian, from an examination of the records, can testify. A year's file of the newspapers scarcely furnishes a single item for this chapter. At times great despondency prevailed. The county was prosperous in 1876. A few events of commercial importance occurred. In March, 1873, the Commercial Bank, the second bank in San Diego, was opened for business. The Julian mines continued to prosper. The San Diego river was permanently turned back into False bay, and the destruction of San Diego's harbor by it stopped in 1877.
Douglas Gunn writes: "The prospects of the harbor as a railroad terminus constituted the leading stimulus to the growth of the new city; but the people soon began to give attention to the development of the resources of the country ; and when it was found that patience must be exercised under delay in railroad affairs, the people were prepared to exercise that virtue. No community has ever exhibited greater courage and stronger faith than that of San Diego * * The commerce of the port has steadily increased; roads have been built to the interior ; farms and orchards have been cultivated; mines have been opened ; and in spite of 'hard times,' the country has continually grown in popula- tion and wealth."
CHAPTER XVI EARLY DAYS IN SAN DIEGO
By Mrs. Matthew Sherman.
When I was a very small girl I used to say that when I grew up I was going to California to teach school, and when I was grown up my dream was realized, for I came to California and after residing in the vicinity of San Francisco a year or two, fortune or fate led my steps to San Diego, there to take charge of the only school in the county. My friends thought I was going out of the world, but there was something about this far away, almost unknown southern country that seemed to have a charm for me, and on September Ist, 1866, I left San Fran- cisco on the steamer Pacific, Captain Thorn master, and on the morning of Sep- tember 4th we rounded Point Loma, steamed into San Diego bay and dropped anchor off shore in the vicinity of what is now known as F street. There were no wharves then and we were put into small boats, rowed as near the shore as possible and then the sailors waded the rest of the way, carrying the passengers in their arms and landing them safely upon dry land. There was one vehicle upon the beach awaiting our arrival and in it I took my seat and was driven to Old Town. The settlement was at Old Town, as what is now San Diego was simply to me that morning a long stretch of brush covered land. The houses around the plaza were in good repair and the ruins one sees at the present time were thrifty looking places and were filled with people. Such a change! It makes one sad to contemplate. There were very few women beside the native population, less than a dozen all told. The school children all numbered about forty, mostly of Spanish origin. There were no steam laundries in those days-most of that kind of work was done by Indian women. They would take the clothes to the bed of the San Diego river and then dig in the sand until they found water, which was very near the surface, and they would sit by this miniature well and wash all day long. I used to say "What patient creatures !"
We had a mail once a week, and steamer once a month. Our mail was brought by stage from Los Angeles and was supposed to come and depart once each week, but sometimes it would be delayed on account of storms, as it was impossible to cross the streams and there was not a bridge between here and Los Angeles, and in the rainy season we sometimes received our mail in a very wet condition, but of course that did not often happen. We were so glad to see the mail stage come that we never thought of making complaints. There was but one church, the Roman Catholic, where services were held occasionally. The same church building and bell are still in use. Father Ubach came late in that same year, 1866, and remained permanently, and once in each month he used to hold services in the English
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language. I used to attend, for then I could understand. The feast day for San Diego is on the 6th of December and then they used to celebrate, and I witnessed my first bull fight on that day. The plaza was fenced in for the Arena, the animals were turned loose in the enclosure and then the fun, if fun it could be called, began. This generally lasted two or three days but the festivities were kept up till after the new year with the different kinds of Spanish sports. One could hear the violin and guitar in all directions, for the Spanish people are very fond of music and dancing.
After my marriage in May, 1867, I came to New Town to live, as this por- tion of the town was called at that time. My husband and myself were the only inhabitants, my nearest neighbor being four miles away at Old Town. There were four houses besides the Barracks. The Barracks, it might be interesting to know, was framed in the state of Maine and brought around Cape Horn in a sailing vessel and put up in San Diego I think in the year 1852, soon after California became a part of the United States. In April of 1867 Father Horton came and made his purchase of land and returned to San Francisco. In the autumn of the same year our population increased two in number, an old gentle- man and his wife, so that I had near neighbors.
In 1867 our "fathers" at Washington got the idea that smuggling was being carried on at this port. I never knew what it was that was being smuggled. So they sent the Revenue cutter Reliance for our protection. She sailed around the Horn and arrived here early in 1868. The vessel remained here a number of months, but finding that there was nothing for them to do, she was ordered to Alaska.
I will speak of our water system. Of course we had one. The idea had always prevailed that there was no water to be had in this portion of San Diego, but during the Civil war the soldiers dug a well and found water at a depth of, about twenty-four feet. The location of this well was below what is now known as K street, between Fourteenth and Fifteenth streets. They put up a primitive windmill and used to haul water in barrels. This was the way the soldiers at the Barracks were supplied with water. But our own water system was a burro and two ten gallon kegs. These kegs were fastened upon the back of the little animal. We gave him the name of "Patient Peter," he was so patient and wise. This little fellow used to bring his load of water for more than a mile. One day a stranger came along and was talking with my husband about the possibilities of the place, and he asked, "Where do you get your water?" My husband in reply said, "I will show you where we get it." Just then little "Patient Peter" came in view led by an Indian, and my husband continued, "There are our water works." This stranger must have left, for we never saw him afterward.
As you will remember, "Father" Horton came to San Diego and made his purchase of land and then returned to San Francisco. Early in 1868 he returned with his family to reside. He soon commenced the survey in laying out the future city of San Diego. Now and then a settler came to make the new place his home. On the Fourth of July we held a picnic in Rose Canyon about four miles from Old Town. There was a stranger in our midst and of course curios- ity was on tiptoe, for it was such an unusual occurrence that we all wondered. He was an Englishman and came here from Australia. We soon knew why he was there, for he erected a store building on the corner of G and State streets,
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and opened a store. His billheads read in this way: "J. Nash, General Mer- chandise. Established in 1868. Population twenty-three." You would think that one had plenty of courage to open a store under such conditions, but that is the material that pioneers are made of. Later he moved to Fifth and J streets. About the same time Captain Dunnells came with his family and pur- chased one of the four houses above mentioned, situated at the corner of F and State streets, and opened a hotel called the New San Diego Hotel. We began to feel by this time that with a store and a hotel, even if our population was only twenty-three, that we were getting to be quite a commercial town. In the spring of 1868 we built a house and moved into it in the month of May. Then my nearest neighbor was over a mile away, as at that time there were no buildings of any description on Horton's Addition. We built the house before the streets were laid out, but we were fortunate to build a house upon a lot and not in the street. But we were more unfortunate with the well we had dug, for we found it to be in the street, and we had the trouble of filling it up again. This house is still standing on the northwest corner of Nineteenth and J streets.
November 4, 1868, was a memorable day for the whole country, for it was the presidential election, the day that General Grant was elected president of the United States, and an interesting day for San Diego, as it was steamer day and the steamer arrived on that morning. Every one who could, went to see it. On this particular morning there were more passengers than usual, and among them was an Episcopal minister. He established a mission and our first Protestant services were held in the Barracks the following Sunday. Everything was very primitive. A very common table covered with a white cloth served as an altar, and the seats were boards resting upon boxes and oil cans. Mrs. Dunnells was the proud possessor of a musical instrument-I think it was called a melodeon- which she kindly loaned, and it was taken to the place of meeting in a wheel- barrow and returned in the same manner. The beautiful service of the church never sounded more sweetly to me than it did in these plain surroundings. It was not long before we had a building erected, in which services were held. The following year nearly all denominations had their church societies organized and two years later our Episcopal mission held their first Sunday School Christmas Festival. There was neither paint nor whitewash but we covered the studding and rafters with green boughs that grew on the little hills. There were only eight scholars and four of that number belonged to the rector's family. We had a very small organ and the children sang their Christmas carols and enjoyed the . Christmas tree, and the older folks enjoyed it too.
On Christmas Eve, 1868, we had a grand gathering at the Barracks, as that was our town hall. We had a Christmas tree and there were gifts and good wishes for every one. J. Nash, our merchant, gave all the ladies living in the new settlement, calico for a dress. I always thought it was very generous, for com- mon calico sold at twenty-five cents per yard at that time. A collection was taken up to purchase a bell for the school that we hoped so soon to establish. We had a bountiful supper and closed with dancing. Everybody was invited and every- body who could be, was there.
During the year 1868-69 we made quite a rapid stride forward. A stage line to Fort Yuma was inaugurated by the government and the San Diego Union was first published, both with offices at Old Town, and the court also convened at
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the latter place. We had mail service twice instead of once a week and steanı- ers twice a month. A postoffice was established at New Town, called South San Diego. You see we were a suburb of Old Town.
We petitioned to the supervisors for a school district and succeeded in get- ting one. J. S. Mannasse & Company, merchants, gave lumber, we gave land and money and built a schoolhouse on the corner of Twenty-first and N streets. We hired a young girl to take charge of the school and paid her with money sub- scribed for the purpose. The following year an appropriation was made in regard to school money. I do not remember the exact number of pupils but there were less than a dozen. That was the beginning of our school system. When I see the children coming out of the school buildings now, I think to what large proportions small things can grow.
In March, 1869, I gave a party to my niece on her birthday and invited all the little girls. There were nine, including the recipient of the party. One little girl said to me, "Mrs. Sherman, I've come all around the world to get here," and no doubt it did seem a very long way from Union and B streets to Nineteenth and J, with no direct road. Our streets had been surveyed but had not been traveled, and as they were covered with brush, walking was not very easy. One of the girls now grown up, said to me not very long ago that she remembered it so well and what a lovely time they had. That was the first social event that ever was held in San Diego among the younger set.
On the Fourth of July, 1869, we had a celebration. The exercises were held in a warehouse at the foot of Fifth street where the Pacific Coast Steamship Com- pany's depots are now. It was a small structure built by Mr. Horton, and was afterwards used by A. Pauly & Sons as a store for general merchandise. We had a very modest procession. G. W. B. McDonald was president of the day. Rev. Sydney Wilbur offered the prayer, Captain Matthew Sherman read the Declaration of Independence and Daniel Cleveland was orator of the day. We had good singers in those days, the same as we have now, and the patriotic songs were sung with truly patriotic spirit. Our celebration was enthusiastic. It was not such a large gathering but it was an animated one, and the fact that we were here in this far away town of San Diego did not keep us from feeling our joy and expressing it at the anniversary of our nation's birth. Tables stood on one side, spread with many good things to eat. There was plenty for all. After the dinner was served, the tables were cleared and a good old-fashioned dance was indulged in. Our celebration lasted three days, the second day at Old Town by horse racing and fancy riding, and the third day at Monument City, the latter place situated somewhere in the vicinity of what is now South San Diego. I do not think it is in existence now, but then they had a hotel, a number of dwell- ing houses, and were very large in hopes and expectations, but like many similar places, their anticipations were not realized. We have had many celebrations since, but none more enjoyable than this of 1869.
After our house and Mr. Nash's store were built, the next improvements were made on Fifth street. Here and there a store and a few private dwellings were erected. Very soon the street took on quite a business air. It was not long be- fore the San Diego Union and stage offices, also the court, were removed to the new town. Our postoffice was changed from South San Diego to San Diego, and the Old Town office was given the name of North San Diego. So the mat-
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Copyright, H. R. Fitch
SAN DIEGO IN 1873
10
Copyright, H. R. Fitch
SAN DIEGO IN 1886
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ter was reversed. We were the main town and Old Town had become our suburb.
We also had our bank, which was a small brick building on Sixth street be- tween J and K streets. In 1870 the Horton House was built by Father Horton.
Ever since California had become part of the United States it had been one of the dreams of San Diego to have a direct railroad to the east. Then later the possibility of this railway made the little band of citizens an enthusiastic body for its construction. Many meetings were held, speeches were made showing forth the benefit to be derived, of the cotton which would be shipped to the Ori- ent at this port, and the Oriental goods received in return. The Texas & Pacific Railway was organized. Tom Scott was president. The city of San Diego gave a princely domain of land and the citizens generally subscribed very liberally. In Washington a bill for this railway was before congress, and on March 3, 1871, the bill passed both houses and was signed by the president. The telegraph line had been extended to our place and the news came over the wires. Of course we were all jubilant. We could almost hear the locomotive whistle. The following year, in 1872, Tom Scott came here and he was given a very warm welcome. A mass meeting was held and plans for the future were made. Everything seemed bright and promising. We felt that San Diego's prosperity was assured. The following year ground was broken for the road and the road bed graded for a short distance. But, alas! the money panic in New York stopped further prog- ress and we fell back into the old groove and started again building railroads. In the meantime a local company had been organized to build a railroad to San Bernardino. Ground was broken in 1872 and about ten miles of road bed graded, but for some reason it was never finished. From now on we improved slowly, but although we missed the railroad, we never lost faith. Then came the time when the Santa Fe built into the city and although it was not what we had hoped to have, a direct line to the east, yet it gave us means of communication with the outside world.
Then came the boom in 1886 with its influx of people and rush and excite- ment. Improvements were now rapid and San Diego commenced to take on its present aspect. The years have passed and San Diego has grown to be what you see it today.
There are many pleasant recollections of those early days and of the warm- hearted pioneers whose hands of good fellowship were extended to everyone who came. When I look at the picture hung on memory's wall and see the San Diego of those early years, with the brush covered hills, with the flocks of sheep grazing contentedly without fear of molestation, and the San Diego of today, with so many improvements, its fine homes, lovely gardens, beautiful buildings, electric cars, with all the improvements of the present time, and our lovely Coro- nado set like a gem by the sea, I feel that I have stepped into another world. But the same broad ocean and beautiful bay, the old familiar form of Point Loma standing like a sentinel, and the same bright California sunshine is just the same today as it was then. I have always been glad indeed that it has been my destiny to live in this, to me, delightful spot.
Vol. I-9
CHAPTER XVII
SAN DIEGO COUNTY CREATED AND ORGANIZED IN 1850
The constitutional convention met at Monterey in September, 1849, Miguel de Pedrorena and Henry Hill representing San Diego. The legislature met the following winter and launched the great American state of California. San Diego was the first county created under the act of February 2, 1850, and San Diego and Los Angeles made up the first judicial district. The first legislature also provided for a custom house at San Diego. Two voting precincts were established under a law providing for the first elections in the new state, one at Old Town, the other at La Playa-and the official record of the election held here April 1, 1850, reads as follows :
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