San Diego county, California; a record of settlement, organization, progress and achievement, Volume I, Part 41

Author: Black, Samuel T., 1846-
Publication date: 1913
Publisher: Chicago, S.J. Clarke
Number of Pages: 540


USA > California > San Diego County > San Diego county, California; a record of settlement, organization, progress and achievement, Volume I > Part 41


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Where in any other section of the United States is there to be found the innumerable different auto trips, each trip having an interest of its own? To illustrate. Take the forty mile trip from San Diego across San Diego's beautiful bay by ferry, thence through the city of Coronado, with its world-famed Coro- nado Hotel and many beautiful homes; thence along the peninsula two hundred yards in width, with the Pacific and its beautiful beach on one side, and San Diego bay on the other for a distance of eight or ten miles; then through South San Diego, Nestor, and up the Tia Juana valley through citrus orchards, alfalfa farms, etc., into the town of Tia Juana, Mexico. There you find absolutely an- other type of civilization and customs. Then returning by way of Nestor, our new highway lies through Otay valley, Chula Vista and National City, with their world-famed citrus orchards and pepper tree drives, etc., back to San Diego and you have during the trip circled San Diego bay.


Another trip, known as the "One hundred and forty mile drive," made easily in a day over magnificent roads, takes you past the State Normal School, El Cajon boulevard, to the thriving city of La Mesa, to Grossmont, where reside the famous artists' colony, including Mme. Schumann-Heink, Mme. Gadski, Terresa Carreno, etc., also the noted writers, Owen Wister, John Vance Cheney and others. Continuing, the road leads through El Cajon valley with its grape raisin vineyards, citrus orchards, etc., then through Bostonia and Alpine over hill and valley, step by step, higher and higher from the semi-tropical climate with its oranges and olives to Descanso and Julian, with its apples and cherries, mountain streams, beautiful pine and oak timber, and Cuyamaca lake. It is


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over this route you see the wonderful view of the famous Colorado desert and Salton sea to the east, while to the west a hundred miles of the sea coast with mountain and valley at your feet, to the north are to be seen the snow-capped peaks of "Old Baldy" and "Grayback" in the San Bernardino range. Nowhere in the United States is the atmosphere any clearer than here-on a bright day one can easily see a hundred and fifty miles with the naked eye.


PLEASURE PLACES AT JULIAN


The ride from San Diego to Julian can easily be made in a morning. Lunch- eon can be had at Julian or Pine Hills Inn. At Pine Hills can be seen one of the most beautiful forests of pine and oak in the country. A unique hotel has been built here called Pine Hills Lodge and operated by Mrs. W. L. Detrick. Many prominent San Diegans have invested in pleasure places there, including Hon. Lyman J. Gage, U. S. Grant, George W. Marston and others. This section of the country is an interesting place for a visit for a few weeks' rest, as the eleva- tion is more than 4,000 feet and it affords a delightful change from the sea coast.


Leaving Pine Hills, the trip takes you through rugged mountain scenery and timber, apple orchards and cultivated farms to Santa' Ysabel. Here one takes a side trip to the famous Warner's Hot Springs, twenty miles distant and con- tinue on out by way of Oak Grove toward Riverside, or one can follow the newly constructed road down the entire San Luis Rey valley and river, a wonderful trip, for forty-five miles from Warner's ranch to the ocean at Oceanside.


It has been said by many who have traveled through Europe that the scenic features of the canyon route through San Luis Rey valley from Warner's ranch down is equal to anything in beauty to be seen in the Alps.


Continuing from Santa Ysabel, our one hundred and forty mile drive takes us past the bewitching Witch creek, with its delightful little hotel, through apple orchards, grape vineyards, beautiful oaks and rugged scenery to and around the fertile Ramona valley and Santa Maria; thence down the winding, wonderful mountain grade many miles under spreading oak and wild grape vines in pro- fusion until the wild Pamo Gorge is reached-an interesting sight never to be forgotten. The road continues past the San Pasqual battlefield, a memory of the Mexican war; then through the delightfully interesting San Pasqual valley through walnut, apricot and fig orchards, alfalfa farms, etc., to Escondido, the "hidden vale." Here can be found one of the most interesting semi-tropical valleys in southern California, with its orange, lemon and olive orchards and grape vineyards.


From Escondido into San Diego, a distance of thirty-four miles, the road leads through the Bernardo and Poway valleys, over the Poway hills, where another beautiful view of ocean, valley and mountain are obtained; then across the Linda Vista mesa, past the oldest mission in California, into San Diego. It is this drive that is unequalled in the state for good roads and variety of scenery.


The trip of a hundred and forty miles is easily made in a day and is one never to be forgotten.


Many other delightful trips can be made, along the coast to Oceanside, forty miles, then past the famous San Luis Rey mission, up the San Luis Rey valley


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for twenty-five miles to Pala and its interesting mission and Indian reservation ; then continuing up the San Luis Rey valley with its streams of living water the year round, it is about ten miles to reach the Rincon Indian reservation. Along the river for miles are to be found delightful spots for luncheon under spread- ing live oaks and sycamore trees.


Continuing, the road will take you by way of Bear valley, Valley Center and back through Escondido to San Diego. During every mile of the way is to be found something of interest.


Numerous short trips out of San Diego include a drive up the San Diego river to Lakeside and Lakeside Hotel for lunch and back by way of El Cajon valley. Then there are rides to the Otay lakes and Moreno dam, to Campo and Buckman Springs, to the Monte and to Point Loma and that government wire- less station, and last but not least, a trip to La Jolla, the caves, the Torrey pines and Del Mar. At Del Mar is found Stratford Inn, a delightful country hotel with things good to eat, a hot or cold salt plunge if desired, fishing, hunting and withal a delightful spot for rest and to live.


All these places that I have mentioned are connected with good roads, already completed.


And now comes that which is dearest to the hearts of the citizens of San Diego city and county-a road over the mountains to tap the great Imperial val- ley, Arizona and the east. Thanks to our state highway commission, we have just been awarded the "plum" which gives us a state highway for seventy-five miles along the coast to connect Los Angeles and San Diego and one hundred and twenty-nine miles of state highway from San Diego east to El Centro, the county seat of Imperial county. California has bonded itself for $18,000,000 to build 2,000 miles of magnificent roads and we will have the benefit of approxi- mately $1,000,000 for good roads spent in San Diego county.


It has been a great fight to secure the state highway from San Diego to El Centro. Los Angeles wanted it to go by way of Riverside and Indio, cutting us out entirely. San Diego citizens were awake, however, and built six miles of road to the east line of San Diego county, over a mountain range as a step in the right direction. But we went further than that. The citizens of San Diego raised $50,000 more and are now building approximately twelve miles of roads in Impe- rial county as a donation and to assure the citizens of that county of our desire for a closer connection in business and friendship. Imperial county already did its part in helping along the good work, with the result that we secured the state highway, San Diego to El Centro, a permanent road with a sub-base of concrete four inches in thickness and a top surface of two inches. The completion of this highway will give us one of the most delightful drives in the United States. Where in the world can one, in a machine, leave a semi-tropical climate and the grand old Pacific and in five hours pass over a mountain range elevation 4,000 feet from citrus orchards and perpetual summer, through wooded forests, inter- esting scenery, mountain streams, and, slipping down on the east side of the divide, behold the wonderful coloring of the desert range of mountains, the Colo- rado desert and the Salton sea; then the desert itself, seventy-five feet below sea level? Continuing, the road leads to El Centro, through the irrigated section with its cotton fields, date palms, alfalfa and grain fields, fruit orchards, practi- cally a tropical climate, all within a five hours' run of San Diego. This is to be-


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come, we hope, a part of the great ocean-to-ocean highway soon to be constructed from New York to the Pacific coast.


Six millions have already been raised toward the ocean-to-ocean highway by private subscription. It is intended to raise many millions more and to have the road completed by 1915, in time for the expositions here and at San Francisco. Again we find Los Angeles against us. Different reports indicate that an attempt is being made to bring the ocean-to-ocean highway by way of Tonopah and Salt Lake; also by way of Needles and northern Arizona. The adoption of either route would leave San Diego off the map. . It is high time the citizens of San Diego organize and in conjunction with Imperial valley, Yuma valley and Phoe- nix, see that our case is properly presented to the ocean-to-ocean highway com- mittee and use every effort within our power to have our route adopted.


One thing in our favor is that the ocean-to-ocean highway by way of Ari- zona and New Mexico will be open the year around. No other route can make this claim. We are at a disadvantage of nearly two hundred miles in distance but by hard work, both on the part of the state of Arizona and the people of Imperial and San Diego counties, I am satisfied we can win. Nothing, unless it can be a transcontinental railroad, can help us as much and San Diego must im- mediately take prompt action, or we are in danger of losing the coveted prize.


1


CHAPTER XLIV


SAN DIEGO-PANAMA EXPOSITION


On July 19, 1911, ground was broken for the exposition to be held in San Diego, commemorative of the opening of the Panama canal. The pageantry, exercises at the exposition grounds and noted men and women taking part therein, were all described in a felicitous manner by John S. McGroarty, editor of the West Coast Magazine. His article is given below :


"On July 19th last, ground was broken for the Panama-California Exposi- tion at San Diego. On the day of the ground breaking and for three days following, the event was fittingly celebrated in a most unique, unusual and impressive manner by the people of San Diego and many thousands of visitors from other parts of California and the world. Pageantry by day and by night, carnival that revived the old Spanish spirit of care-free and pleasure-loving California, music, color and gaiety held sway.


"Historically, epoch-making, and from a serious point of view the celebration was distinctly important. The success of it all, which was very notable, indeed, is regarded as a certain indication that San Diego's Exposition in 1915 will prove the most attractive as well as the most unique show ever given on the American continent.


"The San Diego Exposition will be entirely different from the world's fair to be held in San Francisco in 1915. The San Diego show will be a Pan- American affair. Congress has recently authorized the president to request the republics of South and Central America to participate in the Exposition at San Diego. As a consequence, these nations will make great efforts to be splen- didly represented. In addition to all this, our own southwest will be exploited in a fascinating manner, its ancient life and history will be shown-antedating as it does, the civilization of any other portion of the United States-and its pro- gress in mineral, agricultural and commercial lines will be brought out in an original and vivid manner. Irrigation will be particularly exploited with all the miracles that have been wrought in its name.


"The San Diego Exposition will be a floral and a horticultural wonder. It will be an archaeological and ethnological marvel. Every flower that grows, every tree that man has known, the prehistoric races of man, the ancient temples in which they worshiped, the sacrificial altars, the pueblos, the cliff dwellings and the tepees of the nomads-all these will appear. No exposition of such fascinat- ing possibilities has ever been planned or dreamed of before anywhere in the world.


"The ground-breaking for the Exposition was fixed to take place practically


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on the anniversary of the foundation of San Diego, which is also the date that marks the beginning of California as an integral part of the civilized world. California was discovered in the year 1542. only fifty years after Columbus had discovered the New World, but it was not until July 1, 1769, that the Fran- ciscan Padres came to San Diego bearing with them the Cross of Christianity and the stakes of the white man's civilization. On July 16, 1769, the Mission San Diego was founded-the first of that marvelous line of Mission Hospices that were builded along El Camino Real, the 'King's Highway' between San Diego and Sonoma, a distance of 700 miles, the remains of which now constitute the only historical ruins of any extent existing within the borders of the United States.


"It was fitting and entirely consistent, therefore, that the ground breaking for San Diego's Exposition which is to celebrate the completion of the Panama Canal, should be held in the month of July, the month of the first miracle per- formed one hundred and forty-two years before on the same spot, under the same blue sky and on the shores of the same bright Harbor of the Sun. And it was no wonder that the people gathered from far and near by the thousands and hundreds of thousands to witness an event at once so stirring and fascinat- ing, appealing as it did to the imagination of even the dullest beholder.


"The first act which the first white men who settled in California performed was the celebration of a military mass on the shores of San Diego bay. It was done by the Franciscan Fathers, assisted by the Spanish military forces which accompanied the expedition from Old Mexico.


"In order, then, to preserve the atmosphere of history, the Exposition ground breaking began also with the celebration of a military mass celebrated by Fran- ciscan Fathers on the same historic spot. Thus was the pendulum of history swung backward across the dusty pathways of nearly a century and a half of time on the morning of July 19, 1911, in San Diego.


"On the shores of the Harbor of the Sun the same Te Deum was sung that Junipero Serra chanted when he came up from La Paz with Don Gaspar de Portola, footsore and weary, but with a heart bursting with joy as he plucked a wild rose from its stem and said: 'This is a beautiful land. The roses are like the roses of Castile.'


"From far away Santa Barbara, San Luis Rey, and the still more distant missions of the Sierra came, cowled and sandaled, the brown priests of St. Francis. In the heart of the hills that overlook the Sunset Sea and the purpled isles of the Coronados they reared an altar hard by the old Presidio Hill on which Father Serra had builded the first Christian shrine ever erected on these western shores. Not far away they could see the ruined towers and crumbled walls of the ancient Mission of San Diego de Alcala which signalized the first victory of civilization over heathenism in California. Almost at their feet trickled the waters of the first irrigation ditch ever made by white men within the borders of the United States, as at present constituted. Down in the quiet, peaceful Mission Valley stretched the sacred fields where was shed the blood of California's first martyr.


"The celebration of the Solemn Pontifical Military Field Mass was a most entrancing and colorful spectacle. It was carried out with not only all the pre-


Private Grounds of T. T. Hillman Surf at Coronado Wilde Electric Fountain in Plaza


Residence of U. S. Grant, Jr. Caves at La Jolla. near San Diego Theosophical Homestead


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cision of military discipline, but also with the perfect organization of the Roman liturgy. The swing of the centuries was behind it.


"The magnificent altar, set in a natural amphitheater with the blue sky for its dome, was an exact replica of an old altar of Loreto. An immense painting of Our Lady of Carmel formed the background. The floors were of spotless white and the enclosures were of Roman pillars adorned with gorgeous wild flowers and cut roses from the magic gardens of San Diego.


"Twenty-five thousand people were gathered on the open hillsides as the pro- cession of acolytes, friars, secular clergy, distinguished guests, the Bishop and the military filed across the new made trails down to the altar. A hush fell upon the multitudes for a moment; they then broke into a deep murmur of admira- tion that sounded like the tones of some mighty organ.


"Franciscan priests were in full charge of the mass, the celebrant being Father Benedict, Provincial of the Order, who came from St. Louis for the occasion. Rt. Rev. Thomas James Conaty, Bishop of Monterey and Los Angeles, occupied a purple throne. Fully one hundred clergymen attended him. Within the sanctuary were seated Hon. John Barrett, representing the president of the United States, and Joseph W. Sefton, representing the director-general of the Exposition, recipients of the most unusual honors to non-Catholics.


"After the bugles of the troopers ceased to ring their wild music across the sun swept hills, the band played 'Nearer my God to Thee,' and then the stately bishop in his resplendent vestments arose in Cappa Magna and delivered the historical address of the day. It was a notable oratorical effort and was received with cheer after cheer by the people present, who represented all shades of religious belief.


"The actual ground breaking ceremonies took place in the same spot where the Military Field Mass had been celebrated. The program began in the early afternoon in the presence of another monster throng of people.


"When the procession arrived at the site selected for the future exposition buildings, U. S. Grant, Jr. introduced Rev. Edward F. Hallenbeck, pastor of the First Presbyterian church, who delivered an invocation. This was followed by the exposition ode, '1915,' sung by a triple quartette. Mr. Grant then presented Joseph W. Sefton, Jr., acting director-general, as master of ceremonies. Mr. Sefton made a short welcoming speech and introduced Acting Mayor P. E. Woods. The latter in turn presented Lee C. Gates, the representative of Gov- ernor Johnson. Mr. Gates spoke eloquently of the glories of California. Hon. John Barrett, as the representative of President Taft, made a brief address.


"Then came the actual ground breaking. Mr. Sefton first loosened the earth with a silver pick. He then handed a silver spade to Mr. Barrett, and the latter turned the first sod. The spade was then passed in succession to Mr. Grant, Acting Mayor Wood, Mr. Gates, President Charles Moore of the Panama- Pacific Exposition, John D. Spreckels, Governor Richard E. Sloan of Arizona, Will H. Parry, representing the governor of Washington, and to several prom- inent San Diego citizens. Each turned a spadeful of earth, the implement being finally passed back to Mr. Sefton, who turned the last sod.


"Mr. Barrett again addressed the gathering, this time in behalf of the Pan- American republics. Then followed the unfurling of the American flag to the strains of the 'Star Spangled Banner.' Next the President's flag was broken out Vol. 1-23


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amid a great cheering, the release being effected by President Taft touching an electric button at the White House. The band greeted the President's flag with 'Hail Columbia.'


"Flags of the southern republics were next thrown to the breeze as the band played a medley of the airs of all nations.


"G. Aubrey Davidson spoke on 'The Inauguration of the Panama-California Exposition.' He was followed by Charles C. Moore, whose theme was 'San Francisco and Her Great World's Fair.'


"Several San Diego gentlemen followed with remarks. The band played a medley of national airs and the ground breaking ceremonies were ended.


"During his address Mr. Barrett read the following letter from the president of the United States :


'THE WHITE HOUSE, WASHINGTON, July 11, 19II.


'MY DEAR MR. BARRETT: I have yours of July II, in which you advise me that in response to an invitation to you as director-general of the Pan-American Union you are going to the ground breaking ceremony of the Panama-California Exposition, to be held in San Diego from January I to December 31, 1915. This ceremony, I believe, is to take place from the 19th to the 22d of the present month.


'I beg that you will acknowledge for me the courtesy of the management in having extended an invitation to me to attend this ceremony. I cannot myself be present, but I should be very glad to have you represent me there and make appropriate remarks on the occasion.


'San Diego is so situated that she is necessarily very much interested in the opening of the Panama Canal, and the fact that this exposition is to give particu- lar attention to the relations between this country and Central and South Ameri- can countries is sufficient reason why the American public should be especially interested in its success.


'You will convey my compliments to the managers and to the people of San Diego and say to them what you know- of my interest in our Central and South American relations and in the usefulness and successful issue of the exposi- tion.


'Sincerely yours,


'WILLIAM H. TAFT.


'HON. JOHN BARRETT, DIRECTOR-GENERAL, PAN-AMERICAN UNION. 1


'P. S .- I know San Diego because I have been there twice, my father and mother and sister lived there for years, and my father died there. I appreciate the singular beauty of its situation and the wonderful character of its climate. And all these circumstances give me a personal interest in promoting its welfare and in helping to assure the success of an enterprise like this. W. H. T.'


"On the evening of the first day of the celebration the long looked for arrival of 'King Cabrillo' and the crowning of 'Queen Ramona' nearly approached the dignity of pageantry although conceived wholly in a spirit of pleasantry. The light on the waters of the bay and the costumes of the queen and her ladies in waiting were quite gorgeous.


"The affair was handled with admirable care and success. A Spanish caravel


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was seen to come across the waters of the harobr just at sunset. As the ancient vessel slowly crept from North Island toward the pier in San Diego the tremen- dous throngs on shore seemed to grow excited. Lights flashed out from all kinds of craft in the harbor-here, there and everywhere. The caravel sailed on and on and at length reached the shore.


"In the prow of the ship a strange figure appeared who announced that he was Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, the discoverer of California, and that he had returned to revisit the scene of his exploits in the year 1542, when he first came to San Diego. Cabrillo seemed to doubt that the magnificent city he saw before him could possibly be the San Diego of old. He was assured that it was the identical spot and he was urged to come ashore and accept the freedom of the city which he had put on the map nearly four hundred years ago. A golden key to the city's gates was placed in the old sailor's hands and he was told that the people were eager to declare him king in preference to Colonel Collier or anybody else.


"His welcome seemed so genuine that Cabrillo was delighted, and he stepped ashore, whereupon he was placed in a sedan chair and born by a band of Indian carriers up the main street of the town until the courthouse was reached. There at the doorway of the temple of justice, he found Queen Ramona sitting on a golden throne. The mob wildly demanded that Cabrillo should crown the queen. The immortal navigator gladly complied, performing the ceremony with all the traditional chivalry of his nation.


"Ten thousand people then swept both Cabrillo and Ramona before them to 'The Isthmus,' which was a wonderful place similar to the Pike at St. Louis or the Midway at Chicago. There were endless noises from countless horns and a din that would raise the padres from their graves in the Old Mission churchyard.


"The Queen, who in private life is Miss Helene Richards, of Point Loma, was chosen for her exalted position by vote of the people, her popularity out- running all rivals. Tall, and possessed of a brunette beauty, she graced her position and became the most acclaimed personage of the carnival. Wherever she went she was greeted with salvos of cheers. Prominent ladies and gentle- men of San Diego formed Her Majesty's court and did much to make it the striking success that it was.




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