USA > California > Yolo County > The Western shore gazetteer and commercial directory for the state of California Yolo County : one volume being devoted to each county of the state, giving a brief history of each county. > Part 5
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But a road of as much and perhaps of more importance to the interests of this county, because its business would be more centralized here, is the road projected from Wood- land, through Capay Valley and Cache Creek Canon, via Clear Lake, to the Mendocino Red Woods.
This road would give us the whole trade of Lake County and a large portion of Mendocino. It would centralize the business at Woodland, doubling its business and size within the first year after the road was completed. Lum- ber, which now commands such exorbitant prices, could be delivered in Woodland at rates enabling our farmers to fence and build at far less rates than they are now com- pelled to pay. The growing importance of the Lake County trade demands that an earnest effort be made on the part of the business men of this county to secure it. The lumber and wood interests alone would justify the
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venture. From Woodland to the mouth of the canon through Capay Valley is but forty miles, over a natural road-bed, presenting no obstacles but a level plain. From the outlet of the canon to the lake is twenty miles of heavy work, the route following the creek. From the lake to the lumber regions-forty miles-the route presents no serious obstacles, the spurs or slopes of the broken ridges being long and of easy grades: Through the cañon seems to be the only natural, feasible route for the road, as the range that intervenes between the lake and Capay Valley is from six hundred to one thousand feet above the lake, the ascent and descent very abrupt and probably insurmountable.
There are no long, sloping spurs by which a road could be carried up or down this range, without the expenditure of such sums as would forbid its construction in the present state of the counties affected thereby.
The prosperity of the county demands the establishment of these routes, especially the northern and northwestern portions, which are now dependent on freight teams as a means of transportation for the vast crops annually grown in those sections.
Clear Lake Wagon Road.
A very good wagon road has been constructed across the mountains, connecting with the Berryessa Valley and Clear Lake Road; but it is of little importance as a route over which to transport large amounts of freight, owing to the abruptness of the ascent from this side and the steep descent into Sulphur Creek Valley, where it unites with the road mentioned. From the foot of the mountains to the county line, or rather, all that portion of the road lying in Yolo, is a county road and free to travelers, but that por- tion in Lake County, from the ridge to the valley, is a chartered toll road, which has a great tendency to turn Lake County travel into Napa via of Berryessa Valley.
In this connection it may be well to consider the
Public Roads of the County.
We cannot speak in lavish praise of the road-system of
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the county, which has had the effect of furnishing very poor roads and very few at that.
In a county susceptible of having the very best of public roads, we find but few if any that would be classed as be- longing to that order. We find further, that many of the roads, asnow used, have never been laid out and declared pub- lic highways, and are liable to be shut up and closed to the public at any moment, when caprice or other causes on the part of the land-owners should determine them to do so.
This state of affairs is a great detriment to the prosperity of the county, for various reasons. Owners of lands ad- joining roads, not yet declared public highways, hesitate to fence, build, plant trees and otherwise improve their farms, fearful that some caprice or whim of their neighbors may remove the road, and they and their improvements be left isolated. Again, the farmer fears that a road may be forced through his lands at inconvenient points, and he forbears fencing, which might all have to be removed, to remain of any value, should the present roads be changed, as is frequently the case. These and many other considerations render it almost imperative that the public roads should be located permanently by the proper authorities.
There is another item to be considered in connection with roads, of equal importance to trade and travel. We refer to the public
Bridges.
In this department the county has done nobly, and, as far as at present constructed, her bridges are inferior to none. Two fine bridges span Cache Creek-one at Nelson's, near Woodland, and one at Cacheville. One is spoken of at the mouth of Cache Creek Canon, which would accom- modate the section north of the creek, and known as Hun- gry Hollow. A bridge at this point is an imperative neces- sity, and will doubtless soon be built by the county or by private individuals. It is absolutely necessary to bring the trade of that portion of the county to Woodland.
In other parts of the county, the streams are smaller and generally well bridged. The road and bridge fund of the
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county is in good condition, and we may confidently expect an improvement in the public highways.
Toll Roads.
There are but two toll roads-the Putah Greek Turnpike and the Yolo Plankroad Turnpike Company's Road. The latter road connects the River Road with the Buckeye Road, via the Tule House. The Toll Road extends from the river to the Tule House, and is four and one-half miles long. It was built in 1855, under a charter granted to J. L. Lewis, William Green, J. P. Hopper, W. C. Wallace, George W. Foster, Joshua B. Tufts and Judge Ralston. The road is assessed at three thousand eight hundred dollars. It was built to enable the travel to cross the tules during the win- ter and spring months, but we believe there has been but two winters since it was built when travel was entirely un- interrupted by the floods. J. L. Lewis is gate-keeper.
Ferries.
The first ferry established in Yolo County was established by J. B. Lewis, who crossed the plains in '50 and settled in this county in May, '51. In the following fall, he started the first ferry across the tules, near where the present Toll Road is established. It was what is known as a rope ferry, the rope used being three miles long. Two trips were made daily, unless the wind prevented, as was frequently the case. The prices of ferryage was as follows: Two dollars per head for stock; one dollar for each passenger. Mr. Lewis records one season when the ferry was useless, there being no water in the tules. In '52-3 and 4, he run a ferry across Wash- ington Lake.
Smith's Ferry.
The ferries in present use in the county are four in num- ber. Smith's Ferry, the uppermost, is about fourteen miles north from Woodland, on the Marysville Road.
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Knight's Landing Ferry
Is one of the oldest on the river. It is owned by J. Snow- hall and others.
Sutterville Ferry,
Three and a half miles below Washington, connects Sutter- ville with the Yolo shore, at McGregor's Ranch. It is owned and run by Samuel Hawk.
Freeport Ferry,
Or Jackson's Ferry, connects the town of Freeport with the Yolo shore. It was established by George C. Jackson and others in 1852-Mr. Jackson being boss-builder of the first boat. This is a buoy ferry, with a large boat and excellent landings. It is thirteen miles below Washington, thirty- one miles southeast from Woodland. It is owned and run by its old proprietor, George C. Jackson.
We will now consider the natural divisions of the county, their general character, resources and value :
Natural Divisions of the County.
Owing to the peculiar location of the county and the varied character of its soil, it is divided by nature into five sections, which we have classed as divisions one, two, three, four and five, when locating the many farms and speaking of their qualities.
These divisions have not been made by us in such a manner as to include in one belt all land of equal value-far from it. We have taken the natural divisions and simply numbered them. For example: A farm may be located in division three, but owing to its proximity to division two it may be comparatively worthless, or it may be of far more value than the one in the same division immediately ad- joining it.
There are farms in division two which, owing to their peculiar location, their adaptability to peculiar phases of
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agriculture, and for many other causes, are held at high figures and will command them; while, on the other hand, there are farms in divisions one and three that are nearly worthless, owing to natural causes, still they are ranked in those valuable divisions because they come within the belts thus segregated by Nature.
In division five occasionally we find small and valuable farms, but not in division four, which presents but little difference in soil throughout its length and breadth.
This explanation may suffice to show why some farms in division three are valued at thirty, forty, fifty to one hun- dred, dollars per acre, while others in the same division are valued at from five to fifteen dollars per acre.
Quality of soil has been the first consideration, then the advantages of living water-soil being equal-in valuing lands. We then consider the proximity to market and large towns, which places a value on such lands (all other things being equal) far above the price of lands less favor- ably situated. For instance: Land in the immediate vicinity of Woodland sells readily at from sixty-five to one hundred dollars per acre, while land of better quality, thirty miles distant, commands but from twenty to thirty dollars. Again, very large farms are rated lower per acre than small ones in the same locality, our aim being to give a valuation that would be realized in case of forced sales of the whole quantity.
The buyer would find it impossible to purchase eighty or one hundred and sixty acres of land from the owners of large tracts at the figures given, for the reason that the holders of large tracts of grain land do not desire to sell, unless they dispose of the whole body.
Again, in division two the value of the lands is but pros- pective, depending on the future.
But we leave this for a general description of each divis- ion, commencing with
DIVISION ONE,
Which is a narrow belt of land, bordering the Sacramento River the entire length of the county. In width, it varies
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from fifty rods to half a mile, rarely exceeding the latter. Besides the river belt a similar strip of land borders Babel, Elk and Sutter sloughs, as well as the sinks of Putah and Cache creeks. This land is entirely "made land;" or, in other words, it has been deposited by the streams in their annual overflow. In some localities, where the water has been "backed up " and over these lands, the sediment has accumulated very rapidly and attained a great depth. These sections are the choice garden lands of the county, and are remarkable for their fertility and the apparently inexhaustible nature of the soil. The clearing of these lands from the great growth of willow and " un- derbrush " which covers them is very difficult and expen- sive. The labor ceases not with the first crop. Great care must be exercised for several years, or until the roots have been quite eradicated; and then, if the land is suffered to lie idle for a few seasons, it is again covered with an almost impenetrable mass of vines and " underbrush."
This land, at the present time, rents readily for fifteen to twenty-five dollars per acre, according to the locality and quality. A great many Chinamen are employed in garden- ing, generally renting the land and working for themselves. About twenty-five hundred acres are cultivated in vege- tables, the annual value of the product being estimated at one hundred and thirty thousand dollars.
DIVISION TWO.
Under this head is classed the tule and swamp lands of the county. They are situated mostly in the southern and east- ern portions of the county, though the belt extends to the extreme northwestern corner. This tract of land, or divis- ion, contains two hundred and fifty sections, or about one hundred and sixty thousand acres. A large portion of this land can be grazed only during the summer and fall, for when the winter and spring floods appear it is mostly sub- merged. Great loss of property has frequently occurred from the sudden inundations of this section of the county. The valuation of this land is merely nominal, the taxes
4
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light accordingly. For the present year it is assessed at one and a quarter dollars per acre. Its real value in many cases is far greater, while in others it is all the land is worth at present.
The Tules
Which cover this section are simply immense rushes, which cover the ground with an almost impenetrable thicket. They reach an altitude unknown in other lands, frequently attaining the height of sixteen to eighteen feet. The aver- age height of these tules is about ten feet, growing less on the borders where the swamp land joins the other division. During the summer season these swamps afford good pas- turage, or "range" for numbers of cattle and horses. Hogs thrive remarkably well, finding a great variety of roots and bulbous plants suitable for food.
These immense rushes are annuals, and their decay in the fall is as rapid as their growth is remarkable in the spring.
From the decayed matter of this swamp growth, and the sediment annually deposited, the present soil has been formed. In some localities it is comparatively shallow, while in others it has been demonstrated to extend a depth of sixty feet, with no perceptible difference in the character or formation of the deposit.
Underlying this deposit is a strata of clay, resting upon a bed of sand and gravel, from which, in most cases, excel- lent water is obtained. The soil is apparently inexhaust- ible, and where it has been reclaimed has been proved of great productive powers.
Levees.
A system of levying was undertaken several years since, which so far has not produced the desired effect. The waters from the Sacramento River have been kept within their channel for some distance, but the back-waters over- flow the land at every flood. Still the damage is trifling, compared with what it would be if the river had full sway.
It is a question whether this land can ever be reclaimed,
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as a body. Apparently not, unless the streams which pour their winter floods thereon could be carried between levees until their waters reach the main channel or the bay.
Certain it is, that could this reclamation be effected, one of the finest bodies of agricultural lands in the State would be ready for occupancy, and become a source of immense wealth and prosperity.
Reclamation of Swamp Lands.
There are parts and portions of this land, such, for ex- ample, as Merritt's Island and those portions bordering the sinks of Cache and Putah creeks, that could be readily reclaimed; but those parts lying within the "deep tule " range, though perhaps reclaimable, would, doubtless, re- quire a greater outlay of capital than the present condition of affairs would justify. Hence, we can see no reasonable ground for believing that the main body of the tules will be reclaimed for many years to come.
A plan is now under consideration whereby the tule lands in the northeastern portion of the county may be reclaimed, and a petition has been laid before the Board of Supervisors, asking that legal steps may be taken for that purpose. It is proposed to take in, in one district, all that body of tules lying north of Knight's Landing and south of the Colusa line, and inclose it, where necessary, with levees. It is claimed that by thus segregating it, the work of recla- mation will be very light.
DIVISION THREE.
Under this head is classed the grain lands of the State, or that portion of the county lying between the foot-hills and the belt of swamp land of which we have been speak- ing. In it are included the valleys, such as are large enough to be of any note. This body of land, with one exception, is treated as a whole in classifying farms, though it is far from possessing an equal value.
The exception referred to is the red, gravelly belt, which extends through a portion of the main grain-growing sec-
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tion. This will be spoken of under division four, with which we have classed it.
Where the grain lands join the tules the quality of the soil is frequently very different from that which lies but one section further inland. A narrow belt of lands, often strongly impregnated with alkali, generally unites the two divisions. This land, lying above the overflows, and gen- erally cultivated, is located among the grain lands. Owing to the prevalence of alkali on some farms, their value is very materially decreased. This explanation will suffice to afford a reason why some farms are valued at low figures, while others immediately adjoining them are valued very high. The quality of the soil and the improvements thereon have determined the valuations of farms, while nature determines the divisions.
Again, where the grain lands border on the foot-hills, and include in their compass broken lands, rolling hills, gulches and ravines, they are naturally of less value than where the same quality of soil is well situated.
All these points have been considered in connection with these lands, and the main peculiarities of each section have been noted and will be briefly alluded to.
DIVISION FOUR.
This embraces the red, gravelly belt, referred to, and the first range of foot-hills. This gravel ridge and alkali belt begins about four miles west from Woodland, extending to within about three miles of Cottonwood. It has a width of from one to four miles, including in its limits, alkali, adobe, gravel-beds, and many other peculiar features of soil, that are more. marked than valuable. There are a few good farms within this district, but they are the exceptions. The foot-liills included in this division are those bordering the entire length of the county, or rather those that are suitable for and have been devoted to grain culture.
DIVISION FIVE.
In this is included the mountainous part or western
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YOLO COUNTY.
division of the county. It is used only for grazing, and has for that purpose a nominal value, equivalent to the tule lands in taxation, though these lands will sell more readily and bring a better price.
Value of the Grazing Lands.
These lands, where convenient to water, have been rated at five dollars per acre, and of those which are not watered and claimed we have made no mention. There is quite a body of grazing land among the mountains yet unclaimed and unsurveyed. It is worthless to any one but those who have secured the water-courses and springs.
It is highly probable that many years will elapse before the mountains will be surveyed and sectionized, if ever they are; and until then those who have stock ranges will hold them to the exclusion of new-comers. There is no inducement whatever for stock-men to seek Yolo County, as every available stock ranch is claimed or occupied-gen- erally the latter. Unless he wishes to purchase locations, and expects to pay a round price for them, it is unneces- sary for the stock-man to visit Yolo with the intention of locating.
Having glanced at the divisions thus naturally formed, we will consider some of the main features of the localities thus divided, and take a general view of the different va- rieties of farming lands found in division three, com- mencing with those bordering the Sacramento River-the main body of division one.
Sacramento River Land.
Along the Sacramento River, extending . from the lower end of the county on the south to Knight's Landing on the north, is a strip of arable land which is separated from the main body of grain lands by a belt of tule or marsh lands. This belt of land, which we have classed as division one, varies in width from one-eighth to one mile, and extends, including the sinuosities of the river, about forty or forty-
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five miles in length. From Knight's Landing, where the belt is broken, it continues to the Colusa line, but bearing the same general character. This portion of the belt, includ- ing Grand Island, being more properly under the head of grain lands, has been generally so designated, though the marsh lands bordering it have been classed with similar land in the county. All of that portion which lies below Washington is included in the gardens of the county. But very little grain is grown below that point-the land being better adapted to growing vegetables and garden products. Besides, it has been found to be more profitable-a surer source of, income-when cultivated in that manner, than when planted to grain. The uncertainty of the grain mar- ket, the constant and increasing demand for vegetables and fruits, and the peculiar adaptability of the soil for this par- ticular branch of industry, has had the effect of almost totally excluding grain culture from this division of the county.
Another cause works strongly in favor of gardening, as compared with the culture of the cereals. We refer to the annual overflows, which, for a limited portion of the year, hold these lands completely locked in their embrace. Al- though large and strong levees have been constructed along the river banks, they are security against the river floods alone, and are powerless to prevent the inroads of the wa- ters which accumulate in the tule marshes, having been dis- charged there from the mighty torrents which annually find their way from the mountains to the plains, through the swollen channels of Cache and Putah creeks, their numer- ous tributaries and the many creeks and gulches which, though dry and dusty in the summer, are roaring torrents in the winter. This water, not finding an available outlet to the sea of sufficient capacity to readily discharge its vast volume, "sets back " over the lands adjoining the river, and almost completely submerges them, for months at a time.
The quantity of land thus submerged, which is afterward made available, varies in bulk according to the severity of the winter; but, until the rainy season has passed, it is un-
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YOLO COUNTY.
safe and unwise to cultivate any portion of the land which is subject to inundation.
The bed of the river has, doubtless, underwent many changes, as the valley is one vast deposit. It can hardly be supposed that the river has known only its present chan- nel, though the trees which line its banks are indications that many years have elapsed since the present channel was formed.
But in many places the channel has shifted very materi- ally, within the memory of the old settlers. Close by where Mr. Conrad's house is standing, the proprietor hauled his seine, in '49 and '50, over one of the best fishing grounds on the river. Now the river is three hundred yards dis- tant, and the intervening space is overgrown with large willows, vines and a dense undergrowth.
Older evidences of changes are not wanting; also evi- dences tending to show that the southern end of the county has all been made from the annual deposits of the river.
A few years since, Mr. J. C. Ray, while sinking a well on his place, a hundred yards or more from the river, came on the body of a tree, twelve inches in diameter, bedded in a strata of gravel twenty-four feet below the surface. Four feet above this, he passed through a strata of blue clay, and above that still was a sand-bed. At seventy feet, a bed of gray or ocean sand, thickly interspersed with large ma- rine shells, was found. Beneath this, good water was ob- tained, and the well was dug no farther. We might enu- merate many instances where it has been demonstrated that a large portion of these lands, and probably the whole body, has been formed by deposits from the main river and its tributaries, but it is unnecessary.
This class of lands, or most of them, have been reclaimed at great cost. Originally, covered with a dense growth of scrub-oak, willow, briers, wild grape and other vines, the expense attending on clearing the lands and fitting them for cultivation, was very great, ranging from one hundred to one hundred and eighty dollars per acre.
After the underbrush had been cleared and burned off, the roots were "grubbed" or dug out, before a plow could
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be put in the ground. Not only for one year, but for sev- cral years, after the first clearing, must the grubbing process be repeated, until the green sprouts are thoroughly eradi- cated, and the remains of the old roots are entirely de- stroyed.
The labor on these lands ceased not with the eradication of the first growth of brush and vines. Frequently the floods would wash over them, destroying orchards and gar- dens, and, in a few days or hours, obliterate every trace of years of patient toil; and the orchards must be planted again, the fences rebuilt, the garden reclaimed again-or the farm be abandoned. In several cases, the latter course has been adopted, but not until after repeated trials, which left the unlucky gardener hopelessly involved-completely ruined.
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