USA > California > Yolo County > The Western shore gazetteer and commercial directory for the state of California Yolo County : one volume being devoted to each county of the state, giving a brief history of each county. > Part 8
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We have visited several beautiful fields of alfalfa lately, among which was the field of N. Wyckoff, Esq., near Wood- land, who has devoted much time to experimenting with this clover, and now has about sixty acres, as green and thrifty now (August 20th) as in the early spring when the ground was saturated with water. A portion of this-about fifteen acres-is kept Lor seed; the remaining portion is used for pasturage.
We will chronicle his experience, as that is of far more interest and value to our readers than any crude observa- tions of our own. First, regarding the necessary qualifi- cations of the soil: It should be deep, loose and strong, allowing the root to strike deep enough to reach perpetual moisture, to assure a good stand or growth. This requisite obtained, the ground should be carefully tilled, summer fallowed, if necessary to remove all foul weeds. The seed should be sown in the spring, and with no other crop, from fifteen to twenty pounds being sown to the acre. Great care should be taken in securing seed free from foul weeds, and otherwise of good quality. When the stand has reached
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a height of eight or ten inches, feeding can commence with- out injury to the plant, if not fed so close that the roots are injured. It seems to grow more rapidly in the very warmest weather, and to be insensible to the ills which affect other grasses in seasons of drought. During the month of June last, when the thermometer ranged from one hundred de- grees upward, the clover in the fields spoken of grew with marvelous rapidity. It seemed to delight in the excessive heat and take a new growth, covering the ground with a carpet of green that contrasted most favorably with the dry, parched fields adjoining. The amount of hay on the ground uncut was estimated by Mr. Wyckoff at five tons per acre. When cut for hay, four crops are easily gathered in one sea- son, and the fields are then pastured through the fall and winter. When grown for the seed, the fields are fed until the middle of April, and then two crops of seed are gath- ered, and the stock again turned on. From eight acres of clover in 1869, Mr. Wyckoff secured about five tons of seed, which sold readily for twenty-five cents per pound. From the same ground he will harvest six tons of seed this sea- son. He has been at great pains to secure perfectly clean secd, and has met with entire success. His arrangements for threshing and cleaning are brought to perfection, and the increased demand for the seed evinces the regard in which it is held, as compared with the imported article. This season the price has been fixed at twenty cents per pound, and a large supply will be kept there for home use.
In connection with this, we gathered many interesting facts regarding the culture of this plant, which we cannot refrain from giving a place in these pages. The clover that he cuts for seed paid him three hundred dollars per acre, before he made a specialty of it. He is now (August 15th) harvesting his first crop, which will yield three tons of seed. Other lands which were pastured yielded him seventy-five dollars per acre for the season. He estimates that one acre of this land in alfalfa will sustain as much stock as ten acres, when in its natural state, or with any other species of feed that can be successfully grown in this climate.
He first experimented with it in '55-6, but owing to the
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seed being foul he abandoned those fields and replowed them. Noticing the fondness of the stock for the few bunches that would not be killed, he concluded to try it again, being convinced that it was just the thing for dry seasons and stock. Some of the planting of '55 still re- mains, despite the continual wheat culture, annually reaching a growth of five feet and upward in height, showing that it is worthy of its German name-"Everlasting Clover." It shows moreover that when it once has taken root, it is extremely hard to eradicate, but continues to increase from year to year. Around Woodland are many fields of from one to fifty acres in extent, the owners of which speak in the highest terms of its value. About twelve hundred acres were seeded during the last spring, and the number will be largely increased this coming seeding season.
The successive cropping of wheat, as practiced by the farmers, has seriously impoverished their lands in many instances, and will eventually tell on the strongest soils. Aware of this, many are preparing for a change, and will proceed to plant alfalfa in lieu of grain, not alone for the profit, but to enrich their lands.
This clover, called by many Chile Clover, has long been grown with marked success in Chile. We have seen vast fields of it there, on soil similar-perhaps inferior-to thou- sands of acres in this county. With a climate similar to that, we have the same or greater advantages otherwise necessary to insure success. In that state it has almost entirely superseded all native grasses. It is supposed by many that it is a native of Chile, but this is an error. It is a native of Southern Europe, where it is known under the name of Lucerne, from a canton in Switzerland, where we first learn of it.
In a paper read before the American Institute Farmers' Club, by Mr. Curtis, we find the following description of the clover, in which the reader who is at all acquainted with alfalfa will recognize it at once. Mr. Curtis, in expa- tiating on the value of this plant for soiling, says:
" It will grow in the same climate and soil with red clover, but needs stronger land, and, being a native of
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Southern Europe, requires, to perfect itself, more sunshine and warmth; but this peculiarity can be remedied, to a considerable extent, by a rich soil, a warm exposure and stimulating manures. When furnished with these advan- tages its rapid growth and the amount of Lucerne which can be taken off from a small piece of ground is most as- tonishing-from four to six crops being cut in one season from the same land. For flesh-forming and nutritive ele- ments it is superior to red clover, containing 50.7 parts to 41.2 in clover. Like elover, it covers the ground with a dense shade, thus enriching the soil, while the roots strike down into the subsoil to the depth of several feet, defying drought and leaving the land in admirable condition for subsequent cultivation. Lucerne resembles elover in ap- pearanee, with a smaller leaf, and if left to ripen has a more woody stem. I would not recommend it to take the place of elover for general purposes; but I do most em- phatically indorse it for a soiling plant, to meet the great want of the dairy-man and stock-breeder. For horses it has special merits-not being soft and washy, they are not liable to scour on it. It is perennial; once get it rooted, and with a clean soil it will thrive for years, yielding its successive burdens of richness. The seed is larger than clover seed, and when ripe and fresh, glossy and yellow, as the sample shows. They can be obtained of any first- class dealer at fifty cents per pound. The crop may be sowed with grain-rye being the best-but it is preferable to sow it alone, from eight to ten pounds per acre."
Mr. Curtis was writing for another people and gave the experience of another climate; therefore, a portion of his remarks cannot apply to the cultivation of Lucerne or alfalfa here. We quoted them, however, to show the esti- mation in which the plant is held in the East, where the finest qualities of clovers and grasses arrive at perfection; also to show that alfalfa and Lucerne are one and the same, having its origin elsewhere than on the American Conti- nent. Germans readily recognize it as their "Everlasting Clover," and the Swiss welcome it as the Lucerne of their
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native valleys, where it is held in the highest estimation both as a fertilizer and soiling plant.
Thousands of acres in this county are peculiarly adapted to its growth, and vast wealth could be added to the county by turning these scantily-clad fields into alfalfa pastures. It must prove itself of immense value, as long as fresh- green feed is considered essential to successful dairying and stock-raising. Ere long many of the worn wheat-fields must be abandoned, unless sooner planted to that which will enrich, not impoverish them; and this plant seems to be the article required.
Creeks and Sloughs.
The water-courses of the county, aside from the river, are divided into creeks, sloughs and arroyos. The prin- cipal creeks are: Cache Creek, Putah Creek, Cottonwood Creek, Dry Creek and Buckeye Creek.
The principal sloughs are Sutter, Elk, Babel, Willow and Sycamore sloughs.
There are several deep arroyos, among which are: Salt Arroyo, Pine Arroyo (or Cañon), and several others having local names, and others that are nameless.
The Arroyos
Are deep mountain ravines-torrents in winter and dry in summer, with the exception of the few springs and pools found at intervals along their beds.
Salt Arroyo rises in the first range of high hills, or mountains, on Scott's Ranch, in Buckeye Township, and empties its winter's floods into Buckeye Creek.
Pine Cañon rises in the same range and on the same ranch, emptying its waters into Salt Arroyo. There are several arroyos heading in to the same range of hills, which, coursing northward, reach Cache Creek, well up in Capay Valley. The springs found in their beds serve as watering places for stock, there being but few found else- where in this range of hills.
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Deep Arroyo.
This arroyo, or slough, heads in the southeast corner of Buckeye Township, and follows a northeast course for about eight miles. It probably connected with Willow Slough at one time, and is doubtless the old bed of Buck- eye Creek. It is known as "Dry Slough," in Plainfield, where it approaches Willow Slough.
About one mile from Putah Creek, and extending paral- lel with it for about three miles, is another arroyo, or slough, possessing many of the remarkable features of Willow Slough, such as large ponds of fresh, pure and cold water, fed, doubtless, from the same source.
Willow Slough.
This remarkable stream differs from all others within the county, inasmuch as its waters are supplied by springs clear and cold as those flowing from the mountain gorges. It first makes its appearance on the farm of Abram Barnes, about nine miles southwest from Woodland, rising from a large spring, or pond, whose waters cover an arca of per- haps one-fourth of an acre. From this spring, or pond, a succession of pond-holes occur for about six miles, united with each other only during the rainy season. The general course of the stream is southwest until it reaches Grayson's Ranch, where its course is about due east for two miles further.
At Grayson's, the springs, or pond-holes, become more numerous, and are united at all seasons-in summer, by a shallow rivulet, in places ten to fifteen feet wide. From Grayson's east two miles we come to the head of the slough proper, near Merritt's Bridge, where it deflects to the north, and, following a northeasterly course, discharges its waters in the tule marshes, about fifteen miles from the first large spring mentioned, including the sinuosities of its course.
At Merritt's Bridge, or near there, the first large body of water begins, and extends in one unbroken sheet-aver-
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aging about fifty yards in width-for a distance of two and one-half miles. Its greatest depth, so far as has been ascertained, is seventy-five feet, and in no place is it less than from six to ten feet. As a general rule, the banks are abrupt and the bed composed of gravel.
Two and one-half miles from the bridge the slough passes through Dr. Ruddock's Ranch, where the main body of water is divided by a riffle of about one hundred and eighty or two hundred rods in length. In this distance the water falls several feet, there being a fall of nearly or quite eight feet on the Doctor's place.
At the foot of the riffle the slough again assumes the proportions of a river, and continues so for about two and one-half miles further, or until it reaches Ryon's Crossing, nearly east from Woodland. This second division has the same general appearance attributed to the division already described, though it lacks some of the charms which char- acterize the other.
From Ryon's Ranch toward the tules, its fair proportions are somewhat curtailed, the character of its bed and banks materially changed, owing to the different kinds of soil through which it passes; and thence through the marshes the slough presents but little of interest or beauty. Pass- ing by the lower division, we will briefly glance at the two portions separated by the riffle. These two large bodies of water are clear, cold, and well supplied with many varie- ties of fish. In bathing in the stream, one finds the pres- ence of large and strong currents of chilly water-so cold, in fact, that during the warmest part of the season the tem- perature of the whole body is too cold for pleasure a few feet beneath the surface; and if a vessel be sunk to any considerable depth, the water so obtained will be found cold as the mountain springs.
The volume of water passing over the riffle at Dr. Rud- dock's place will probably reach one hundred thousand gallons in twenty-four hours at the lowest stage of water. From this, one can form some idea of the number and size of the springs which supply this remarkable stream. That the sources of supply have not their origin in the land
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immediately surrounding or bordering on the sloughi, is evident from the vast difference observable between the taste and properties of the water obtained by boring, or that which is taken from the slough. The water obtained from wells-and especially those at some distance from the sloughi-is hard, heavily charged with minerals, and in some instances brackish and saline, while the waters of the slough are the reverse. It is evident that the numerous springs which are to be found at intervals along both banks of the slough take their rise far away-their hidden channels being above the present water-line of the sur- rounding plains.
These curious springs have been the cause of many conjectures, arguments and theories regarding their real source, as by that is determined the source of Willow Slough. By some they are supposed to belong to the gen- eral body of water underlying the plains around Woodland, at an average depth of about fifteen feet; but this theory is untenable, as has been shown by the vast difference in the qualities of the two divisions of water. Another and more reasonable theory is, that Willow Slough is the continua- tion of Cottonwood Creek, which, in summer, sinks at the foot of the hills, some eighteen miles west from the first springs, or pond-holes. And yet again another theory gives to Cache Creek the credit of furnishing Willow Slough with its limpid waters. That Cache Creek has at various times lad other than its present channel is evident. Old beds are plainly discernible in several places, and other channels have been found beneath the surface, when sink- ing wells, that gave no evidence of their presence by the formation of the upper soil. From the first pond, on Barnes' Ranch, to the old El Dorado Ranch, on Cache Creek, the evidences of the old creek bed are numerous and plain. The distance-some eight or nine miles-is marked at intervals with beds of gravel and deposits of sand stratas, and at points the old banks have not been entirely obliterated. The level character of the country, and the fact that the volume of water materially decreases from the time that it leaves the canon and debouches on
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the plains, lends additional strength to the theory. In the summer the waters of Cache Creek disappear at intervals, or sink in the sand; and it is but reasonable to suppose that they follow the old channels far beneath the present surface. The hidden waters of Cottonwood Creek doubt- less mingle with those of the larger stream, whose under- ground currents are not affected by the change of seasons.
During high water, when the heavy rains have swollen Cottonwood Creek to the dimensions of a powerful stream, and Cache Creek to a formidable river, their waters are united in the overflow, and Cache Creek discharges a large volume of water through the Cottonwood Plains, which finds an outlet to the tules through Willow Slough. At such times the slough is a mighty river, bearing on its tur- bulent bosom driftwood from the mountains, as well as fences which have been swept from the surrounding plains. When the floods have subsided, and Cache Creek has set- tled down within its regular channel, and Cottonwood Creek does not venture further than the shadows of the hills, Willow Slough resumes its placid expression, and re- mains with unchanged aspect until the floods again visit it.
During one of these periodical floods, in March, 1847, Joe Buzzy got into his canoe at the north door of Sutter's Fort and sailed through the tules and up Willow Slough to Gordon's Ranch, on the north side of Cache Creek, meeting no greater obstructions than the strength of the current. Along the slough, or the two large bodies of water composing the main portion, the banks are well wooded, the trees and undergrowth thickly interlaced with wild grape and other vines, forming a pleasant, shady re- treat, where one can enjoy the sport of angling to his heart's content.
The fish, with which the stream is well furnished, con- sists of pike, chub, dace, sunfish and a species of perch, very palatable and easy of capture. No trout is found in the stream, though it is evident that they could be culti- vated to great advantage, especially the Lake Tahoe varie- ty. Fish have been taken from the slough weighing five pounds, though the average are much smaller. No effort,
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as we have learned, has been made to demonstrate whether the slough contains large fish, though there is every indi- cation that such is the case. The depth of the water, rarely disturbed by natural or artificial agencies, is favor- able in the extreme to the various kinds of California fish which are invariably found on the bottom of deep streams, their habits never bringing them within range of shallow fishing.
On the farm of Dr. Ruddock, which embraces the rip- ple and the lower end of the first large body of water, are some very singular springs or wells, situated at some distance from the main slough and separated therefrom by high, firm grain land. These wells are circular in form, about sixty feet in diameter and three in number. Their depth has never been ascertained, but it is known that- they reach at least to the level of the bottom of the slough, by which they are doubtless fed with water. These wells are supplied with fish, some of them being very large, of the same varieties as those found in the main stream. The general appearance of these wells is similar to the far- famed Humboldt wells, while the water is much superior to the taste and for all uses. To those who imagine the plains present no objects of curiosity or interest worth ex- amining we would recommend a visit to Willow Slough and the natural wells on Dr. Ruddock's farm, premising that, having done so, their minds would be disabused of their first and erroneous impression.
The sinuosities of the slough probably extend it to about fifteen miles in length, that is, that portion which is com- prised within the limits spoken of-the first large spring and its final discharge into the tule swamp. For the distance it abounds in pleasing features- murmuring rivulets, deep and broad sheets of water, shady nooks and cosy, vine- laced bowers. A sail on the waters or a plunge in their cool and bracing depths will well repay one for visiting this locality.
At certain seasons of the year the wild duck can be found here in great numbers, as well as different varieties of the wild goose. At no season of the year is the slough
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destitute of ducks, but the wild goose only remains through the rainy season.
The value and importance of a body of water like that of Willow Slough can hardly be overestimated, especially so when we consider the general absence of pure, living sur- face water on the plains of this and other counties of the State. There is enough flowing over the riffle to supply two or three such towns as Woodland with pure, sweet, wholesome water, and, should that supply prove inade- quate to the demand, nature has provided reservoirs which are capable of supplying half the county with water during the dry season. Perhaps, when Woodland shall have at- tained to the dignity of an incorporated city, and counts her inhabitants by thousands instead of hundreds, she will look toward this point as the source from whence she will draw a supply of wholesome water with which to provide for her population's comfort.
Elk Slough.
This slough is one of the outlets of the tule marshes, and is supplied entirely from their waters. During the summer there is no running water in it, and then it pre- sents a series of long, deep ponds, unconnected with each other. The head of the slough approaches the river near the brick school-house, about nineteen miles below Wash- ington. After various meanderings, and having main- tained a southerly course, it reaches the river near the head of Sutter Slough, about six miles from its source. Along both banks of the slough is a narrow strip of garden and grain land, varying in width from fifty yards to one- half a mile. Between the river and the slough the tule marshes are shallow and could readily be reclaimed. Be- yond the slough the marshes are deep, the water standing in large bodies all the season. This portion of the tules will probably remain in its present state for many years, and it is extremely doubtful whether any effort will ever be made to reclaim it.
The principal occupation of those who reside on the
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slough is stock-raising and dairying. But little grain is grown and but few gardens cultivated. Messrs. Hindsdill, Krull and Waterbury are engaged in dairying on a mod- erate scale. Further down the slough we find the King brothers, engaged extensively in stock. They also possess some fine grain fields. Still further down are several small ranches, where excellent crops of barley were raised this season.
At the ranch of Mr. Feran, where the arable belt is very narrow, we find an extensive aviary. Mr. Feran informs us that bees thrive exceedingly well when located on any part. of the high lands bordering the slough. The dense under- growth bordering its banks, the multitude of wild flowers and vines with which the undergrowth abounds, and the vast tule marshes filled with water plants, vines and flowers, afford a luxuriant harvest to the tiny laborers. At certain seasons of the year the honey-dew is deposited in large quantities on the belt of upland, affording another source from which they gather their sweet stores. There is some- thing singular and at present unexplainable regarding the annual fall of this remarkable dew. We do not know of this phenomena existing elsewhere than in California, and we have never learned of any satisfactory reason for its annual appearance. Perhaps some of our savans will investigate the matter, and advance some theory regarding its origin. The honey-dew is found on the banks of the main sloughs of the river, also on the Sacramento, San Joaquin, and other rivers of the State, after they have entered the vast plains which form the great inland basin of California. The same feature may exist elsewhere in the State and out of it, for aught we know to the contrary; but if so, we have seen no mention made of the fact.
The wild blackberry grows in great profusion along both banks of the slough, attaining the finest flavor of any we have seen in the State. Thousands of gallons are annually gathered here and along the river for the Sacramento and San Francisco market, where they find ready sales and fair prices. It is probable that a profitable source of industry could be inaugurated by cultivating and improving the wild
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blackberry. The fruit arrives at maturity in its wild state in advance of any of the varieties now cultivated, and doubtless careful cultivation would improve both the quality, quantity and the time of maturity. The experiment is cer- tainly worth trying.
Bable's Slough.
This slough connects the tule with the Sacramento River, having its outlet in the marshes, about five miles from Bable's Ranch, where it leaves the river. Its course is southwest for about half its length, when it turns to the southeast, and follows that course until lost in the marshes. Along its banks are some good grazing, and, in ordinary seasons, grain farms. The breadth of land is wider than that of Elk Slough, though its average height is less, sub- jecting it more frequently to overflow. As it approaches the river, the land rises considerably, and at the river the banks have never been submerged. On the fifteenth of May, 1849, Mr. F. Babel settled at this point, and has remained there since. He was the first settler in this part of the county, and from him the slough derives its name. It has long been a noted point on the river-one of the old land-marks which has not changed with the intervening years. The old sycamore tree fronting the farm house can be seen for a long distance either way from the decks of the passing steamers. At the foot of this old sycamore, the bodies of two men were recovered, who were drowned in the floods of '62, and their bodies were buried near the roots of the old monarch of the river.
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