The Western shore gazetteer and commercial directory for the state of California Yolo County : one volume being devoted to each county of the state, giving a brief history of each county., Part 6

Author: Sprague, C. P; Atwell, H. W. (H. Wallace)
Publication date: 1870
Publisher: Woodland, [Calif.] : C.P. Sprague & H.W. Atwell
Number of Pages: 626


USA > California > Yolo County > The Western shore gazetteer and commercial directory for the state of California Yolo County : one volume being devoted to each county of the state, giving a brief history of each county. > Part 6


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Many of those lands which are now in use as gardens along the river, are still suffering from the effects of the frequent overflows. On some, the wash and sediment has been deposited to such depths as to destroy the fertility of the land, for some years at least. In some places, where, but a few years since, luxuriant crops of vegetables were grown, and where fine orchards were standing, every ves- tige of cultivation has passed away, and nothing is to be seen now but a dense growth of willows and briers, among which one may occasionally see the tops of fence-posts pro- truding six or eight inches above the soil, where but a few years ago they stood five feet above the ground. That depth has been filled in by the deposits of the numerous floods which have washed away the top-soil off some farms only to deposit it on others.


Again, we find farms sadly neglected - abandoned, in fact, by their former owners, and now occupied by China- men, who rent and cultivate each a fow acres. The owners having become discouraged by the frequent losses from floods, have ceased to improve their lands, and, being un- willing to dispose of them at ruling prices, have ceased to cultivate them, nor will any effort be made to restore them to their former position, until some system of leveeing shall be devised and carried into effect that shall guarantee them security against future devastation.


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That portion of the river lands now under cultivation commands a high price and rental per acre. Good garden land near Washington sells from fifty to two hundred dol- lars per acre, and rents at fifteen to twenty-five dollars, cash, rent.


The general products are vegetables of various varieties- the principal being corn, melons, cucumbers, sweet pota- toes and peanuts. The amount of land annually under cultivation in vegetables or garden, including that in other portions of the county, amounts to about twenty-five hundred acres-yielding an annual income to the owners or culti- vators, of one hundred and thirty thousand dollars, and affording employment to about three hundred men, a large proportion of whom are Chinese. The remainder are mostly Portuguese and Italians-a few French, Germans and Americans, being engaged in the same occupation.


With a proper system of levees, that would afford secu- rity against the floods, the number of acres and working force would soon be quadrupled, and an almost incalcu- lable source of wealth added to the county.


The effects of the floods are not alone devastated farms. In many localities where the lands have been submerged but uninjured by wash-owing to the water backing up over them without a current-the lands have been left in a foul state-the seeds and roots of foul growth from other places having been deposited thereon by the water and taken firm hold of their new location as soon as the floods subsided. Once established, it is found to be very difficult, if not impossible, to eradicate them by cultivation - in fact, the morning glory, a vine of rapid growth, seems to thrive under the severest system of cultivation. Every joint of root which is broken by the plow, if left on or in the soil, takes a new start and soon becomes another vine, spreading its branches far and wide and choking all other growth around it. The joint-grass thrives still better, when disturbed and broken up by the plow or hoe. Every joint, when separ- ated from the parent stem, throws out roots and attaches itself to the soil immediately, and as its roots extend but a


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few inches below the surface, the drought has no effect upon it. In fact, this troublesome visitor thrives equally well above or beneath the water. The cultivation of grain, fruit or vegetables, will not eradicate these troublesome parasites that fatten on the ruins of fine gardens.


The only remedy left by which to escape their ravages seems to lie in seeding the land to alfalfa, the rapid growth of which effectually chokes out the foul interlopers. Many of the farmers are adopting this system, and many more will follow their example.


Among the dairy farms we find the introduction of this plant becoming general, and the farmers express themselves as being well satisfied with the results. Under another head we shall treat more fully of this matter.


The dairy farms on the Sacramento are worthy of especial notice, and several of them will be mentioned under the head of dairy farms.


Among the most prominent of the dairymen who have located in Merritt Township, we might refer to J. B. Green, whose ranch lies in Yolo and Sacramento counties, being divided by the river. The location is one of the pleas- antest on the river, being situated on the island formed by Elk Slough on one side and the river on the other. On the same island are the dairy ranches of Mr. Cave, Mr. Childs and several others.


The Sacramento River lands possess much of interest, ยท notwithstanding the fact that in many cases the farms have been neglected and permitted to become overrun with weeds, briars and bushes, while the buildings have fallen into disuse and consequent decay. These lands were the very earliest settled in the county, with one exception, and many are still living on the ranches they occupied in 1849 and 1850. The mulberry orchards, the cocooncries, with but one or two exceptions, are situated on the river. The only chickory-growing and manufacturing establishment in the State is on one of these river farms, and the finest orchards and vegetable gardens of the county are located here. As a general rule, the water along the river is excel- lent, being much colder than that found further back and


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on those plains not subject to overflow. Grain does not succeed as well on the river farms as it does on the plains, excepting in very dry seasons. It grows too rank, and is apt to fall without ripening, when a new crop grows imme- diately, mixing with that which has partially ripened, ren- dering it unfit for harvest and difficult to save.


Vegetable gardens line the river bank for miles, inter- spersed with orchards' and occasional grain fields. No- where in the State do vegetables grow in greater profusion, or attain a larger size. Mammoth squashies, melons, beets, etc., under a liberal system of cultivation, are the rule- the dwarf, shrunken specimens being rarely found. The result of the numerous overflows has been, in most cases, beneficial to the gardening interest. In many places the soil is but sediment-a loose, fine sand, in which the foot sinks to the ankle whenever placed upon the yielding surface. This sand is thoroughly mixed with a fine loam, of exceed- ing fertility, rendering it very productive. Sweet potatoes grow to an unprecedented size, possessing a flavor second to none raised elsewhere. Berries of different varieties are successfully cultivated and yield handsome returns. The mulberry grows very rank in this soil, and requires but little, if any, care beyond the planting and cultivation necessary to keep down the weeds.


Peaches, pears, apricots, nectarines, plums, cherries, quinces, figs, and many other varieties of fruit, reach their greatest perfection along the river, but grapes fail of reach- ing the high excellence attained in other parts of the county and State, though they are rather extensively culti- vated. The apple thrives better along the river than else- where in the county-the fruit being more crisp and juicy, and growing to a larger size. The extreme heat of the summer is injurious to this fruit in the more exposed plains. Along the river there is generally a breeze, cooler and more invigorating than that which sweeps the plains at certain periods, which has a tendency to preserve the apple from the effects of the sun's rays. But, with this in its favor, we find no apples which, for solidity of texture, flavor or general appearance, can compare favorably with


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those grown in the mountains either of the Coast Range or the Sierras. The apple requires a colder climate, a rocky soil, frosts, snows and marked changes of seasons, to en- able it to reach its perfection. For the earliest varieties- those which ripen and are gone ere the long-heated term is fairly upon us-the river farms will do as well or better than any portion of the county; for those varieties of later growth, that require a season in which to ripen, the river farms as well as the plains present no qualifications nor inducements to orchardists.


Grapes fail from over-moisture, probably, as the wood grows very rank and rapidly. The vines appear to be well sheltered during the growing season; the fruit sets finely and presents the most encouraging aspect until a certain period, when the mildew or blight seizes upon it, and the stand becomes worthless. Such is not the case at all times, but so frequently does it occur that grapes cannot be con- sidered a sure crop along the river, and many have either destroyed their vines entirely, or suffered their vineyards to go to decay and consequent ruin. We do not wish to convey the idea that this is the case in all parts of the county which borders on the river, for some localities, where the land along the river bank is high, the grape flourishes very well, but still not on an equality with those grown on the plains, the foot-hills or the mountains.


Grapes, like the apple, thrive best on ruder soil, where the bed-rock is near the surface, and the roots of the vine can readily feed on its peculiar properties. These facts will be further treated under the head of vineyards.


Woodland Farms


In the immediate vicinity of Woodland, the soil is mostly composed of a sandy loam, with a gravelly subsoil. The depth of soil is not as great as in some localities, owing to the fact that a gravelly elevation extends for some distance around the place on which the town is located. Yet these lands possess a strong soil, and, with proper cultivation, yield handsome returns. The gravelly elevation spoken of


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is, however, better adapted to fruit and vines than grain- the former growing most luxuriantly.


Within one and a half miles of Woodland are some very valuable grain farms, among which may be mentioned


Clanton's Farm.


This farm contains six hundred and forty acres of excel- lent grain land, well fenced and improved. It is peculiarly adapted to grain-raising, and ranks among the best grain farms in the vicinity of Woodland.


To the north of Woodland, the land slopes away to Cache Creek, increasing in fertility and materially changing in quality of soil, becoming more mixed with sand on the sur- face, and changing to a clayish subsoil. With the excep- tion of a narrow strip of cold, swampy ground, which ex- tends up toward the town from the sink of Cache Creek, a fine body of grain land is presented, which is all under suc- cessful cultivation.


The average yield of wheat for this section can be safely estimated at thirty bushels per acre, in favorable seasons, though frequent cases are mentioned where the yield is much higher-forty to fifty bushels per acre having been harvested.


Immediately west from town, we find the lands of excel- lent quality, until we arrive at the gravelly, red soil referred to, which will be spoken of in another article.


Willow Slough Farms.


Along the banks of Willow Slough are some of the finest and most valuable farms in the county. Their value is not enhanced from the supposition that they are of a better quality of soil (which is not always the case) than those farms situated in other parts of the county, but rather from their superior location, their proximity to the railroad, and the great advantages arising from having a plentiful supply of living water convenient of access for stock. This con- sideration alone is sufficient, in the minds of many, to induce them to pay or ask a price for those lands far above that


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realized for other lands of equal qualities of soil, yet lack- ing the great desideratum-water-living, running water.


The farms immediately bordering the slough, and situated on its, eastern bank, of which we propose to speak, with but few exceptions, possess a soil superior, in many respects, to that found a few miles away from the bank of the stream. Especially is this the case in considering much of the land lying to the eastward of the lower body of water, and dis- tant a few miles therefrom. The loam, comprising the top- dressing of the slough lands, is deeper and more mixed with sediment from former wash and overflow, which gives the land a lighter, looser bearing, especially protecting it against drought. In the immediate neighborhood of the last division of the slough, as soon as the higher land bor- dering the stream is left, the whole aspect of the soil is changed entirely. One would hardly suppose that two classes of land, so entirely opposite in their nature and properties, would be found in such close proximity. The one possessed of a clear, lively, warm and strong soil-a mixture of clay-loam and sand-sediment, capable of pro- ducing the most luxurious crops of cereals, well adapted to gardening, vines or orchards-while the other is cold, heavy and backward, composed more of decayed vegetation than other material; entirely different though from regular tule or adobe soil; thickly splashed with barren, alkali spots, on which no vegetation grows-the whole comprising land of but little value for aught else than grazing purposes.


This difference in quality, when understood, will account for the great difference in the valuation of farms which are situated in the same neighborhood-in fact, joining each other. On some of the farms bordering Willow Sloughi, on the east side, these alkali patches occur occasionally, de- stroying several acres in a farm, while the land immediately surrounding these barren places is of excellent quality, and produces good erops.


Dr. Ruddock's Farm.


In following up the slough on the west or Woodland side, we find some farms worthy of especial mention, as being


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peculiarly adapted to various branches of farming. The farm of Dr. Ruddock, embracing one hundred and sixty acres of land, owing to the remarkable manner in which it is watered, is unsurpassed in its adaptability to be rendered a small model farm. As now arranged, about ninety-five acres are in grain, the remainder being used as pasturage. The farm is divided by fences in four fields, in each of which is living water-the slough, and those three remarkable wells or springs spoken of in the article on Willow Slough. The Doctor has about two acres of sweet almonds, which are doing finely, yielding a good crop each year. They are seedlings, and were planted by him but a few years since. As a grain, fruit or stock-ranch, it is equal to the best and inferior to none. A farm of this size, when properly pre- pared for stock grazing, by seeding down in alfalfa, well watered as it is, would become of far more profit to the owner than it can possibly be while under grain cultivation; or, used as a garden, with the advantages possessed by this particular farm for irrigation, it could be rendered very val- uable.


Merritt's Farm.


Another class of farms-i. e., large grain farms-is well represented on the slough by the farm of Merritt Brothers, containing about seventeen hundred acres of the finest quality of wheat land. This fine body of land is well watered, lying on both sides of the slough, and is devoted to raising grain. Taken as a whole, it ranks among the most valuable farms in the county. It is improved in ad- 'vance of many, with orchard and vineyard. The dwelling- house is one of the best in the county, and adds much to the value of the place. This farm is peculiarly adapted to alfalfa, and could readily be transformed into a stock farm of great value.


Bullard's Farm.


Further up the slough we find the farm of Mr. F. Bul- lard, one of the best-improved grain farms in that part of the county. The annual product per acre is above the general average-partly owing to superior soil, but more to


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superior cultivation. This farm is also well adapted to alfalfa and stock, and could be rendered very productive and profitable in connection therewith.


It is evident that those farms possessing the advantages of running water and a good soil combined-and there are but few in the county thus situated-are and will be of far more value than those farms deficient in this particular. Where water must be raised by pumps for stock purposes, it adds no small item to yearly expenses-consequently de- tracting from the value of a farm, when compared with one possessing the advantage of living water. This may serve to show why, in the valuations of land, we have placed the Willow Slough farms in advance of others whose soil is equally rich. There are other portions where the soil is as rich and as deep-perhaps better for general farming -- but they lack the essential advantages enumerated above. This body of land, though well watered, is safe from over- flow-an exception to most of the lands bordering the streams. The quality of soil which characterizes this sec- tion is not confined to this locality, but extends for some distance south and north of the slough, embracing some of the best farming lands in the county. Of these we will speak in other articles, beginning with the


Plainfield Farms.


Plainfield, or Plainfield Schoolhouse, is situated on the north side of Dry Slough, seven and one-half miles south from Woodland, in the midst of a very fertile portion of the county. There are two blacksmith shops, one store, and one saloon, on the south bank of the slough. As its name indicates, the slough is but a dry ravine, excepting during the prevalence of heavy rains, when it drains a large tract of the plains of their surplus waters.


It is intended by the citizens adjacent to this place to apply to the Department for the establishment of a post- office at the Corners, on the south side of the slough. They certainly need one at that point, as their nearest post-office is Davisville, about five miles distant.


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That portion of the county commonly designated as " Plainfield," and lying south of Dry Slough, possesses many of the advantages and peculiar properties which char- acterize the Willow Slough lands. Though not possessing the advantage of running water, these lands are easier sup- plied with this needed element than the average grain lands of the county.


The water is found very near the surface, a plentiful sup- ply being obtained at from nine to twelve feet. An ordi- nary, cheap windmill, in connection with a Douglass pump, is found to be sufficient for all farming purposes and even the watering of large bands of stock.


The soil of these lands is deep, the top dressing being generally a gravelly, sandy loam, easily cultivated and in ordinary seasons producing bountiful harvests. Wheat is the principal production, but few, if any, of the farmers raising more barley than is sufficient to feed their teams. Summer-fallow is not resorted to in this section as much as in many other parts of the county, for two reasons: 1st. The natural looseness of the soil enables the farmers in this locality to start their plows in the fall, when but little rain has fallen-not enough to enable the farmers on clay land to begin work. And again, when excessive rains have rendered clay land too wet for immediate cultivation, these lands are but little affected thereby, and it is seldom that the plows cease running for that reason. The second rea- son is, that a large part of the soil of the Plainfield lands is very rich, and when fallowed before a favorable season the grain grows so luxurious that it generally falls, or be- comes " lodged," while the berry is in the milk, causing a shrinkage of the kernel, besides entailing an additional expense and loss in harvesting. Taking this part of the county as a section, it is second to none in its resources or in its productiveness. Some of the largest farms and wealthiest farmers of the county are to be found in this district.


Green's Ranch.


Among the farms located here, we mention that of 5


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Charles E. Green, as being one of the largest, and we think the best improved, in this section. In improvements it ranks second to no large farm in the county. It contains twelve hundred and eighty acres of land, of superior qual- ity, all inclosed with a five-board fence with redwood posts. It is divided into several fields, containing, respectively, ten acres, eighty acres, thirty acres, forty acres and four hundred acres-the remainder of the farm being in one large field. For the purpose of comparing the present appearance of the county, or portions of it, with the past, we will note the general appearance of this farm and com- pare it with its appearance a few years since.


The first dwelling-house erected on the ranch is still standing, a low, one-story, wooden structure, twelve by twenty feet. In that house the first settler on the farm lived for some years, while pursuing his labors, and doubt- less considered that he had a very good and comfortable mansion. It was also occupied by the present owner of the farm before he felt himself able to improve the place according to his ideas of comfort and convenience.


The dwelling-house now occupied by the family is a two- story frame, twenty-four by seventy-two feet, with an L, twenty-four by forty-eight feet; hard-finished and well fur- nished throughout, and ornamented with front and rear piazzas. A large and deep cellar, with brick walls and floor, laid in cement, and brick foundation, complete the lower division of the building. Rats or mice can find no refuge around the building. By perfect ventilation the cellar is kept cool and sweet, where the milk is kept in the warmest weather, enabling them to make butter alike in the warm or cool seasons. For the rainy or cool season, a pantry above ground is used for dairy purposes, where the temperature can be regulated, by artificial means, to any required degree.


A rain-water cistern, brick, laid in cement, holding six thousand gallons, receives the water from the house-roof, and stores it, from whence it is raised by a pump as needed. The stock of groceries and provisions to be seen


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in the store-room is sufficient to furnish an ordinary gro- cery store with more than an average stock.


In addition to the main dwelling, and but a few yards from it, is the headquarters of the men employed on the place. This building cost twelve hundred dollars, and has ample accommodations for all employed-the sleeping apartments being superior to those of many farmers' fami- lies.


The main barn is sixty-four by ninety-six feet. The main body of the building will 'store two hundred tons of hay, besides containing the mill in which all the horse-feed and hog-feed required are ground.


The stables have room for twenty-two horses, and are light and airy.


The improvements on this place have cost about twenty thousand dollars, including orchard and shade trees. Eight hundred and fifty locust trees have been planted, and the owner of the place intends to plant several acres more, during the coming winter, as a future supply of wood and also to break the force of the winds which at times do much damage. There being no timber on this portion of the plains, it becomes almost a necessity that timber be grown; if not for its beauty and shade, the scanty supply of wood demands it.


Where these improvements now are, twelve years ago the plains were bare of aught save the little frame house we referred to and a small shelter for stock. Twenty years ago no signs of improvement or progressive life were vis- ible. Mark the change, and draw your own inferences regarding the rapid growth and development of Yolo County.


Buckeye Grain Lands.


The farming lands of Buckeye Township are varied in character and value-or, to use the common term, they are "spotted." There are some of the best grain lands in the county in that township, and some of the poorest. The main body of grain land bordering the foot-hills and ex- tending eastward is generally of excellent character until it


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unites with the red gravel belt which extends through a portion of this and Cottonwood townships. The general character of the soil is very different from that which sur- rounds Woodland, and the change is for the better, as far as grain raising is concerned.


East of the Town of Buckeye the gravel, alkalied belt ap- proaches within a few miles, cutting off the first-class grain lands very abruptly. Southward the grain lands extend unbroken until the border of the county, or Putah Creek, is reached. Within this section are many valuable farms, prominent among which is


Ely's Farm.


This farm contains fourteen hundred and sixty acres of excellent grain land, all in cultivation. The soil is deep and lively, partaking in a large degree of mountain wash and deposits. It is the representative farm of the district, and in ordinary seasons has thus far proved very pro- duetive.




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