Historical sketches of the ten miles square forming the District of Columbia : with a picture of Washington, describing objects of general interest or curiosity at the metropolis of the Union., Part 17

Author: Elliot, Jonathan, 1784-1846. 4n
Publication date: 1830
Publisher: Washington : Printed by J. Elliot, Jr.
Number of Pages: 1114


USA > Washington DC > Washington DC > Historical sketches of the ten miles square forming the District of Columbia : with a picture of Washington, describing objects of general interest or curiosity at the metropolis of the Union. > Part 17


Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).


Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24 | Part 25 | Part 26 | Part 27 | Part 28 | Part 29 | Part 30 | Part 31 | Part 32 | Part 33 | Part 34 | Part 35 | Part 36 | Part 37 | Part 38 | Part 39


" Point West" in the northern part of the town, including a large warehouse and wharf, called the Fish Wharf, producing a rent of about. .... $1,350 00.


" Point Lumley" in the southern part of the town. comprehending a wharf 115 feet front, also a large stone wardhouse, and study houses and lots, on Duke street, and the Strand, producing a.rent uf . 300 00.


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Alexandria.


Two brick warehouses, and an extensive wharf, formerly Rumney's wharf, producing a rent of One half square called the Market square, on which


275 00


have been erected several extensive buildings, comprehending the public offices, and therefore producing an inconsiderable rent, but which cost the Corporation upwards of $20,000.


The members of the Common Council, whose term of service expire in March 1831, were cho- sen on the Ed of March, as follows-


[John Roberts, Mayor. ]


First Ward-Benjandin T. Fendall, Reuben Johnston, The- mas Preston, Thomas Sanford.


Second Ward -- Presley Jacobs, George II. Smoot, JJames McGuire, Robert Anderson.


Fürd Ward -- Robert Brockett, Edmund I. Lee, Thomas Jacobs, William C. Gardner.


Fourth Ward-Robert I. Taylor, George S. Hough, Josiah H. Davis, Thomson F. Mason,


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Residence of Gen. Van Ness.


MANSION SQUARE.


'The residence of General J. P. Fun Ness.


This spot was formerly the residence of David Burnes, Esq. one of the principal original pro- prietors of the site of the City of Washington. His-valuable plantation, which descended to him through several generations of Scottish ancestors, consisted of a number of different tracts or grants of land, the smaller of which, had been success- ively united with, or, as it were, merged in, the main tract. The whole now contains the most valuable improvements, and business parts of the Metropolis.


In the plan of the City, this beautiful Square, containing about six acres of ground, was retain- ed by the proprietor, and was designated as a- bove, on a map made by N. King, Esq. formerly Surveyor of the City. It is handsomely situated at the junction of the classical Tiber with the majestic Potomac, who proudly pursues his course from the stupendous Allegany, to the Chesapeake and the Ocean. General Van Ness, formerly a Representative in Congress, from New York, ha- ving intermarried with Miss Burnes, sole heiress of her deceased father, in the year 1802, or 1803, they improved at great expense, the Square in '


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Residence of Gen. Van Ness.


the best modern taste. both as to buildings and grounds-the latter of which, in addition to their lofty, dignified, paternal trees, are abundantly supplied with the best native and foreign fruits, including figs and grapes, and adorned with a great variety of . rnamental shrubs and plants, hedges, quincunxes, gravel walks, vines, bowers, &c. The solidity, elegance and convenience, throughout the whole of the buildings and other improvements of this spot, combined with the na- tural beauty of location, justly excite great in- terest and admiration. The spacious Mansion itself, in the centre of the square, built in a style of the finest architecture, near the President's House, is probably not excelled by any private building in this country. The entrance into this walled square is through and iron gate between two lodges at the north east angle, fronting on the street and the President's Square. Thence there is a winding carriage way, skirted by orna- mental trees, shrubbery and flowers, ascending an artificial mound at the north front of the house, and rassing under an elegant, projecting stone portico at the door. This portico is the first of the kind, if not the only one, excepting that re- cently erected at the President's House, in the United States. Besides an extensive and inter- esting prospect from the south front. (at which there is a handsome Green House extending from


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Residence of Gen. Van Ness.


the principal floor, ) of the River, towards Alex- andria and Fort Washington, comprehending the Long Bridge with its Draws, and the numerous Davigating vessels of every description, to which will soon be added the Chesapeake and Ohio Ca- nal, passing immediately along the south wall of the enclosure; the whole bounded by the lofty banks and ridges on either shore-there is on the north and east a most advantageous view of the imposing public buildings, as well as of the mass of private improvements in the Capitol, extend- ing on one side to the heights of George Town .-- In the midst of the modern improvements and ar- rangements, and within doors some of the most elegant specimens of the fine arts, such as paint- ing and sculpture, of this delightful " Rus in urbe," one of the most attractive objects is the ancient family mansion, which, în times of yore, occupied by a happy and respected ancestry, whilst it is now a monument of the good feeling and good sense of the present proprietors, can never be beheld by them without the most inter- esting associations as well as useful reflections. - It always gives us the idea of a venerable and declining parent, anxiously and affectionate- ly watching the progress of her beloved posteri- ty, who, on the other hand, are constantly retros- pecting for her parental example and admonition.


276


Seat of S. H. Smith.


SEAT OF S. II. SMITH, ESQ.


Among the commanding sites that surround the City, is that of Samuel Harrison Smith, about three miles north of the Capitol. Approaching the dwelling through a long avenue of sycamores and locusts, we reach a point, elevated about three hundred feet above tide water, that commands a view of great extent and beauty, disclosing an amphitheatre of hills rising beyond each other, in which the natural forest and cultivation are hap- pily blended.


The grounds immediately adjacent to the house, are adorned by a luxuriant and variegated shrub- bery, which leads on a gradually descending area, to grounds containing a great variety of the choi- cest fruits, very successfully cultivated. Thence on ascending ground, and in full view from the dwelling, is an orchard, principally of Hughes' Crab, with vines, of numerous sorts, occupying alternate rows. The most complete success has so far attended the rearing of these valuable plants, as well those of foreign as those of domes- tic origin. They grow with great luxuriance, and the fruit seldom fails of attaining maturity. The mode of rearing them, merits from its peculiari- ty and success, more than a passing notice. --


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Seat of S. H. Smith.


Those, who are conversant with the subject, well know that it has been adopted as an axiom ever since the days of Virgil, if not from a more re- mote cra, that the vine hates the shade. In this case, one row of vines, at a distance of about six feet from each other, is planted between the lines formed by the apple trees, which, being thirty feet asunder, places the vines about fifteen feet from the trees. Independently of this circum- stance, the bed in which the vines are reared, is raised by successive ploughings towards the cen- tre, which has the twofold effect of giving depth to the soil, and of arresting the descent of the rain down the hill. To the latter circumstance, much of the success is probably owing. Some experiments, of rather favorable issues, have been tried in making wine; but the vines are yet too young to expect much success in this respect .- The soil is chiefly silicious and so light and deep as to adinit the roots to shoot with vigour.


In regard to soil, it may be remarked of this farm, as of many others in the District, that, with- in a small compass, almost every variety is to be found, so that in a tract of less than two hundred acres, we find, in different and adjoining fields, a decided predominance of either clay, sand or gravel, and in almost equal portions.


From this quality of the soil there is scarcely a single product, favored by the climate, that may


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Seat of S. H. Smith.


, not be raised in perfection. The peach and all the melons attain great perfection. The pear, of the finest sorts, including the most delicious beur- res, for a few years after it begins to bear, is pro- bably unsurpassed; but unfortunately, here, as in the whole southern country, it prematurely perishes under a blight, commencing with the ends of the branches, and soon destroying the body. No object is more worthy of the research- es and experiments of the orchardist than this in- explicable malady. The apple succeeds well; apricots, plums and nectarines only in favourable seasons. The great staple will probably be the vine, to which the soil and the gentle undulations of the ground are so highly favourable: thus con- firming the observation of the celebrated Voiney, that this region of country, from its aspect and soil, bore a striking resemblance to that surroun- ding Bourdeaux, in France.


Some curious specimens have been found on this farm, and among them agates of a handsome formation, petrifactions of great extent, Indian arrows and various feruginous productions. In. deed, iron forms so considerable an ingredient of the soil, that most of the wells partake of it in a sensible degree, from which, perhaps, in connec- tion with the purity of the air, and the elevation of the land, springs a salubrity, not probably ex- ceeded in any part of the United States.


276


Seat of George Calvert, Esq.


SEAT OF GEORGE CALVERT, ESQ.


Near Bladensburgh, about six miles N. E. of Washington, on an extensive and beautiful lawn, stands the family mansion of George Calvert, Esq. the lineal descendant of an illustrious an- cestor, the Baron of Baltimore. The exterior of the house is not as magnificent as the wealth and consequence of its proprietor might lead a stran- ger to anticipate; but the inside is equal, if not superior in elegance, comfort, and convenience, to any of the wealthy planters of Maryland .- The East front commands a fine view of the road and forest scenery; from the West, opens a pros- pect of an artificial sheet of water, and island, terminating abruptly by tufts of trees, and a line of woods, which stretch rather too close- ly from East to West. Two neat lodges, on the Northern limits of the lawn, are erected at the en- trance leading to the house; and a fine stock of white deer. grazing on this highly cultivated spot, indicate to the passing traveller, that it is the re- sidence of a country gentleman of opulence and taste. It is to be regretted that there is not an en. tire view of the house from the turnpike, now one of the greatest thoroughfares in the Union; its ob- lique position viewed from this line, takes off'


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Seut of George Calvert, Esq.


something of the effect and symmetry which it is found to possess, on a closer inspection. The mansion is white, with wings and lofty porticos, about one hundred feet in length. Its appearance, on the whole, is elegant and pleasing: the drawing room and hall were formerly decorated with some fine cabinet pictures, by Breughell and other great masters, but as Mr. C. has, within a few years past removed them to Europe, agreca- ble to a family arrangement, we shall not par- ticularise them. Some family portraits, by Stew- art, are now the only remains of his valuable collection.


But it is as an indefatigable cultivator of the soil, that Mr. Calvert most excels; in agricultu- ral pursuits he has been preeminently successful : his artificial grasses, choice orchard trees, corn, tobacco, size and beauty of his stock, his ample granaries, barns, stables, out-houses, and, above all, the preservation and distribution of manure, . render his Bladensburgh estate of 2000 acres, well worth the examination and attention of the rural economist. Twenty years back the soil of this estate was generally poor and thin, but by ju- dicious and persevering efforts, it is now render- ed rich and productive. The contrast of a neigh- boring field, only divided by a fence, skirting the road on the West, is striking; cut up by gullies,


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Seat of George Calvert, Esq.


sterile, and hungry-looking, proves what has been done, and may be done, by good husbandry. Mr. Calvert intimated to the writer that he had an idea of making Mr. Bowie an offer for this worn-out field, and to tender what he conscien- tiously thought it is worth, with a view to place it in a similar state of improvement with those ad- joining it; however, as it now stands, it is worth but little.


The demise of Mr. C's amiable and excellent wife, took place in the fall of 1822. A few hun- dred yards N. E. of the mansion, a piece of rising ground marks the burial spot of the manor house, where her remains are deposited, within a white marble tomb; and those of four infant children. The graves of the children are arranged at the head of the sepulchre, on which is carved, by the masterly chisel of André, a resurrection piece, re- presenting the mother, preceded by the children, ascending to everlasting bliss. The principal figure is a good likeness of the original, and a fine specimen of Italian sculpture. The inscriptions breathe the real affection and feeling of a bereav- ed husband; and the care taken to preserve, in the neatest order, this consecrated spot, is wor- thy of remark. A scythe used in this affectionate duty, accidentally left by one of Mr. C's sons hanging on the railing enclosing the tomb, met-


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Lord Baltimore.


the eye of the writer. It was fall-the parent had been removing the autumnal leaves scattered from the forest trees, and the son had been cut- ting down the luxuriant grass. How emblematic the scythe-how admonitory the heaps of autum- nal leaves !- How exemplary, affectionate, and pious, the duty!


As the history of the ancestry of the proprietor of this seat, is interesting, and intimately con- nected with that of Maryland, the present Dis- trict of Columbia, and more particularly the neighboring monumental City of Baltimore, we subjoin a few facts, collected from Kilty, Bozman and Griffith, richly deserving notice, as they exhibit the pure and noble views of the an- cestors of Mr. George Calvert:


George Calvert, whose title of Baron of Balti- more, gave name to Baltimore, was a man equal- led by few in his day or nation, for industry, courage, love of country, or piety. Descended from a Protestant Family which had been-driven from Flanders into Yorkshire, during the perse- cution, George Calvert could have but little wealth or patronage to begin life. We soon find him, however, a Knight, Member of Parliament for Oxford, Secretary of the Council, and, in these situations, a strenuous advocate of coloni- zation. Becoming a convert to the Catholic re- ligion, at the time precisely when the reformers


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Lord Baltimore.


were about falling into dogmatical extremes, he sacrificed all his profitable offices at Court, and sought a refuge on this continent. Having ob- tained a grant of part of New Foundland, from King James, he came out to the colony, he called Avalon, with considerable force; and, war ex- isting between that King and the French, he took or dispersed numbers of their ships, and se- cured the English Fisheries. Finding, however, the coast to be inhospitable, he returned to Eng- land, and, in consideration of his services, was made a Peer of Ireland, with a grant of several valuable estates in the Province of Connaught, near the town of Baltimore, from whence he de- rived his title of Baron.


Lord Baltimore resided in Ireland occasion- ally, and, from his former conduct, we may in- fer, that he did all that depended upon him to improve the condition of his tenants and neigh- bors, but, as if enough could not be done there, he embarked for Virginia, being one of that com- pany for several years, with the rank of a Mem- ber of Council in the colony. The Governor, however, and other zealots in matters of religion, imposed insurmountable obstacles to his activity, and he cast about for lands unsettled, and, where he could afford that refuge to others which was refused to himself, After exploring the Bay and Rivers North of the settlements, he returned to England again, and obtained the promise of that territory, which he intended to call Creceutia, but did not live to receive his patent, which was received immediately after his decease, by his eldest son, Cecilius, from Charles the First, af


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Lord Baltimore.


whose instance, and in honor of Henrietta Maria, his consort, and daughter of the Great Henry the Fourth, of France, was called Maryland.


A better compliment to; Cecilius, could not have been devised, than that which is paid in the charter of 1632, where, it is stated, that Mary- land was granted him, among other reasons, be- cause he was treading in the steps of his father. It must be supposed that, after the expenditures required by the expeditions of his father, the proprietary could not abound in means for the establishment of the new colony, and that his presence in England during its commencement, could not be dispensed with on that account, while the difficulties which overtook the whole British Empire in a few years after, rendered his presence in England more useful to his colonists than it could have been amongst them, so that he never realized the intention which he expressed, of visiting Maryland. His good sense fixed upon a plan of sailing from England, and of arriving in America early in the Spring, and thus procure the colonists a season to plant, and cultivate pro- visions successfully as they did.


His instructions were carefully prepared, and they remain with us, monuments of his justice and liberality.


Certain quantities of land were to be given to every emigrant at a low rent, and all English- men and Irishmen were invited, without respect to sect or denomination; they were to enjoy the rights, liberties, and franchises of natural born subjects, and called, upon true democratic prin- wiples, to make laws for themselves, which he


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Lord Baltimore.


'would consider and sanction, if advisable, without reference to the Council or King of England, in any manner whatever. He had a brother, Leon- ard Calvert, whom he sent with about two hun- dred colonists, every way qualified to represent him as Governor General or Judge, in the first instance, and there are none of his acts which were reversed. The Governor did not land among the natives until he was invited. It is doubtful whether he gave any valuable consideration on that occasion, for the red men received into their huts and divided their stores with the colonists, in the most friendly manner. They thus contin- ued to harmonise until the factious spirit theu existing in the parent country, was transplanted, and united, with the selfish interest of a few Vir- ginians, and the Dutch Government on the North River brought on hostilities from the more distant Indians. From these circumstances, and the at- tempts of Cromwell's government to usurp the Province, distress was brought upon the colo- nists, and the Governor, after the most heroic exertions, was obliged to fly; insurrections took place; certain sects were persecuted, and they did not settle down in peace, until after the res- toration of the king of England. In 1660, the proprietary became possessed of his lawful autho- rity. From that time until the period of Inde- pendence, comprising above a century, no dis- turbance was given to the natives, with whom treaties were made, from time to time, on mutual and satisfactory terms. The proprietary extend- ed his invitation to emigrants from the continent of Europe; he frequently exchanged with them


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Lord Baltimore.


good lands for their marshes and wastes, and never enforced the forfeitures incurred by widows or children.


It was the happiness of Cecilius to enjoy the love and gratitude of his colonists several years before his death, in 1676, and after he had sent his son Charles, and future heir, to represent him in Maryland.


The government of Charles, the third Baron of Baltimore, was distinguished not only by the continueil peace with the natives, but a most en- ergetic defence of the privileges of the people, against the exactions of the crown, and the en- croachment of the Pennsylvanians, under the charter granted to Mr. Penn, in 1680; in both of which he was eminently supported by his rela- tive, Colonel George Talbot, who traversed the wilderness to warn Mr. Penn from the neighbor- hood of his capital; drove the Dutch from Lewis- Town, at the mouth of the Delaware, and killed a Collector of Customs in the Patuxent. When the British suspected the fidelity of James the Second, Lord Baltimore was also charged with abusing the Protestants, and though he complete- ly refuted the charge by showing how many there were, and how much liberty they enjoyed in the colony, where, in fact, they had acquired the preponderance, the Government of Maryland was taken out of his hands by William and Mary, in order to secure the ascendancy. These contests took him to England several times; and in the year 1715, he died there, leaving an infant son, Benedict, whose guardians brought him up in the Protestant Religion, and, though he received the


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Bladensburg.


government of his Province from George the First, it was his son Charles, the fifth Lord Baltimore, that enjoyed the benefit of his conversion.


This proprietary visited Maryland, in 1732, for the express purpose of settling the limits of the two Provinces of Maryland and Pennsylvania, with the heirs of Mr. Penn; and, if his just pre- tensions had not been overruled in England, the obstructions in the navigation of the Susquehan- na river, would have been within his line and control. However, the claim of the Pennsylva- nians to the mouth of that river, and head of the bay, were defeated, and the proprietary returned to England, leaving at Annapolis the portrait which is yet exhibited, and the regrets of the in- habitants.


BLADENSBURGH, near Mr. Calvert's seat, was, before the revolution, a place of commercial con- sequence, but it is now reduced to a thorough . fare village. The navigation of the Eastern Branch, terminates at this place; only a few small vessels of light tonnage, find their way up. The trade is very limited; fish and tobacco are the principal articles. The chalybeate spring of strong medicinal properties, mentioned at page $6, is visited by strangers in the Summer season. This village was the principal theatre of action during the incursion of the British, in 1814.


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Residence of II. Dunlop, Esq.


HAYES-the residence of HI. Dunlop, Esq. near Georgetown.


This ancient house was built about the break- ing out of the revolution, or immediately prece- ding that event, and of the very best and most substantial materials. The bricks it is said, by the old inhabitants of the neighborhood, were im- ported from London, as well as the mechanics that worked upon it. Of the excellence of the materials and fidelity of the workmanship, no better evidence can be given, that the fact, that the main building has ever since stood the effect both of weather and of time, without repair. It was built by the Rector, parson Williamson who was at the time the pastor of Rock Creek parish, and had two churches, the one in the District of Co- lumbia, called at Rock Creek, and the other near Rockville, called Rock Creek Chapel, and was perhaps at the time one of the richest coun- try livings in the state, his income being about ninety hogsheads of tobacco, which may be some reason for his building such a house. Wil- liamson himself, is described as a fine specimen of the clergy of that time, under the British sys- tem, he is said to have been learned, witty, and eloquent in the pulpit, but addicted to all the vices then too common among the gentlemen of his profession, such as hunting, horse racing. drinking, gaming, &c.


Mr. D'; extensive farm at Hayes, is in a high state of cultivation and very productive.


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Residence of Col. Bomford.


KALORAMA.


This was the seat of the late Joel Barlow-now in the possession of Colonel Bomford. Its natu- ral situation is beautiful and romantic. The pre- cipitous banks of Rock Creek, on the West; the magnificent Potomac winding in front towards the South; Washington, and its Capitol, on the left; and Georgetown and its hills, on the right, afford a vast variety of town and country, wood and water scenery. This seat stands near the West- ern termination of the heights which flank our city, towards the North. The building is in good taste, of two stories elevation, porticoed, and surrounded with a flourishing and choice shrub. bery.


Passing to the East, on this beautiful ridge, Mr. Pairo, and Colonel Michael Nourse, pos- sess snug little country seats. The former has a fine thriving vineyard of the choicest vines.


MERIDIAN HILL.


MERIDIAN HILL, was formerly the residence of Commodore Porter, and adjoins the Colum- bian College grounds. J. Florentius Cox, Esq. formerly of New York, has recently purchas- ed this establishment. The house rises due


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Aillum's Vineyar 1.




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