USA > Iowa > Muscatine County > History of Muscatine County, Iowa, from the earliest settlements to the present time, Volume I > Part 6
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Thus the celebration was brought to an end. From every point of view it was a success. Probably never again will the state see the reunion of represen- tatives of all three constitutional conventions. Time must soon take away these lingering pioneers of two generations ago, but the state will not soon forget their services, for they have left their monument in the fundamental law of the commonwealth.
VIEW FROM HIGH BRIDGE IN 1900
CHAPTER II.
A BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY.
LIEUTENANT ALBERT M. LEA'S DESCRIPTION OF "IOWA DISTRICT OF WISCONSIN TERRITORY -GIVES TO THE STATE ITS NAME OF IOWA-HIS EXPLORATIONS 1 ALONG THE MISSISSIPPI IN 1835 BRING HIM TO "CASEY'S LANDING," NOW MUSCATINE-PROPHETIC FORECASTS FOR THIS REGION MORE THAN REALIZED.
Excerpts are given here from a very lucid and graphic description of the Wisconsin Territory, written by Lieutenant Albert M. Lea, of the United States Dragoons, in 1836. His reference to the Iowa district is particularly interest- ing and valuable, if for no other reason than that he is the first person to describe the country mentioned as "Iowa," and he is therefore given credit for having assigned the state of Iowa the name it always has borne. Lieutenant Lea's de- scription of a very interesting portion of the western country, especially of that part of it known as the "Iowa District," is very comprehensive, and noth- ing of importance pertinent to his subject is overlooked. He had an eye that was keen to recognize the beautiful in nature and his appreciation of the Crea- tor's lavishness when fashioning and completing this garden spot of the universe is given full rein in this narrative. He said truly "some of the most beautiful country in the world is lying immediately along this district on the west side" of the Mississippi river ; and his prophetic vision of the future capabilities and greatness of the country of his theme is simply marvelous.
From an article on Colonel Albert M. Lea, in the Muscatine Journal of June 4, 1879, the following is abstracted :
"We learn by a letter from I. Botsford, of Albert Lea, Minnesota, that the Old Settlers' Association of Freeborn County, Minnesota, which meets on Tuesday, June 10, have invited Colonel Albert M. Lea, now a resident of Texas, to visit them, and he will be there. He has not visited the north since 1841, and he is now eighty years of age. This will probably be his last visit. Mr. Botsford, who is secretary of the Old Settlers' Association of Freeborn county, informs us that Colonel Lea, for whom the town of Albert Lea was named, as well as Lee county in this state, although the spelling of the latter has been changed, 'was the first white man who traversed this region. In 1835 he was an army officer, and, in command of three companies of dragoons, left St. Louis, passing up through Iowa to the foot of Lake Pepin, in Wisconsin, then through southern Minnesota, to the Des Moines river. He passed down this river in a canoe under orders, to see whether supplies for a fort could be brought up. The river was meandered and mapped and a memoir written out, which became the basis of the appropriation by congress for the great work
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done on that river. The next year Colonel Lea published a map of the country traversed, including a description of the same. In this work the name Iowa was first given to the populous region now bearing that name. But five hun- dred copies of this work were ever put upon the market. In 1836 he went to Rock Island, and through his influence the arsenal was established there. Dur- ing that year he landed at the point now known as Muscatine, then only occu- pied by a squatter with a log cabin and a stack of hay, the whole of which was offered to Colonel Lea for $50. In 1837, at the request of General George W. Jones, then delegate in congress from the territory of Iowa, he accepted from President Van Buren the appointment of commissioner and astronomer to de- termine the southern boundary of the territory. In 1840-I he again visited Iowa, and was present in the third house of the first legislature assembled in Burlington.' "
The title of Lieutenant Lea's monograph reads as follows: "Notes on the Wisconsin Territory, particularly with reference to the Iowa District, or Black Hawk's Purchase by Lieutenant Albert M. Lea, United States Dragoons, with an act for establishing the Territorial Government of Wisconsin and an accurate map of the District. H. S. Tanner, Shakespeare Building, Philadelphia, 1836."
The original pamphlet is about four by six inches, in green pasteboard cov- ers, and is owned and in possession of the Wisconsin Historical Library, and is marked "very rare." In the preface given below he gives his reasons for writ- ing on the subject and in the text the reader will find matter relating to this immediate locality of intense interest and never before appearing in a history of Muscatine county.
Upon reaching the paragraph on "Kasey's" the reader will bear in mind that the place referred to by the author must be no other than the then future town of Bloomington, later to become Muscatine, for assuredly Kasey was living on the site of Muscatine, as shown by the present plat of the city, in 1836, the year the explorer touched at Muscatine and learned from Kasey his intention of starting a town. This would serve to put at rest the question as to who was the first man to have a habitation in Muscatine.
In the following Notes the author designs to place within the reach of the public correct information in regard to a very interesting portion of the western country, especially of that part of it known as the "Iowa District," one of the divisions of the new territory of Wisconsin. That the reader may know what degree of confidence he may place in these Notes, he ought first to be made acquainted with the means of information possessed by the author. He has been employed in his professional duties for more than a year, within the limits of the country represented in the accompanying map. During that time he has traveled extensively, and has been sedulous in collecting information from sur- veyors, traders, explorers and residents. The whole route of the dragoons dur- ing the summer of 1835, as designated on the map, was meandered with a com- pass and the distance estimated by the time and rate of traveling then; and in like manner, the Des Moines river was reconnoitered from Raccoon river to the mouth, and the route thence to Rock Island by the west side of the Missis- sippi. In addition to these sources of information he has procured from the proper bureaus at Washington, the maps sent by the surveyors of the several
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Indian boundaries laid down, and of the far famed half breed tract of the Sauk and Fox Indians. The author is under obligation to several gentlemen for valuable information. Among the number are Captain Boone, of the Dragoons ; Major William Gordon of Iowa District; and Hon. George W. Jones, of Wis- consin. They will please accept thanks for their kindness.
IOWA DISTRICT OF WISCONSIN TERRITORY.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION.
The Iowa District lies between 40° 20' and 43º north latitude, and 18° 10' and 15° 15' west from Washington, and is bounded by the neutral ground be- tween the Sauks and Sioux Indians on the north; by the lands of the Sauks and Foxes on the west; by the state of Missouri on the south; and by the Mississippi river on the east. It is about one hundred and ninety miles in length, fifty miles wide near each end, and forty miles wide near the middle, opposite to Rock Island; and would make a parallelogram of one hundred and eighty by fifty miles, equivalent to 9,000 square miles, or 5,760,000 acres, in- cluding Keokuk's Reserve of 400 square miles.
This country has been alternately in the possession of various tribes of In- dians but last in that of the Sauks and Foxes, of whom it was obtained by treaty at the close of the Black Hawk war in 1832. General Scott was one of the commissioners appointed by the president to make this treaty, hence the district under review has often been called Scott's Purchase, and it is some- times called the Black Hawk Purchase; but from the extent and beauty of the Iowa river, which runs centrally through the district, and gives character to most of it, the name of that stream being both euphonious and appropriate, has been given to the district itself.
In the year 1832, immediately after the treaty above named, several families crossed the Mississippi and settled in the Purchase. But as the time provided for the Indians to give possession was the first of June, 1833, these settlers were dispossessed by order of the government and hence the first permanent settle- ment of whites in the Iowa district did not take place until the summer of 1833. Since then nothing has happened to mar the peace, happiness and pros- perity of a rapidly increasing population, which has already given to many por- tions of the district the impress of a cultivated people. It is true that a few whites had been living somewhat longer on the tract of land belonging to cer- tain half breeds; but as they were very few and were living there only by sufferance, they need not be ranked as settlers of the district.
The general appearance of the country is one of great beauty. It may be represented as one grand rolling prairie, along one side of which flows the mightiest river in the world, and through which numerous navigable streams pursue their devious way toward the ocean. Taking this district all in all, for convenience of navigation, water, fuel and timber, for richness of soil, for beauty of appearance, and for pleasantness of climate, it surpasses any portion of the United States with which I am acquainted.
Could I present to the mind of the reader that view of this country that is now before my eyes, he would not deem my assertion unfounded. He would
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see the broad Mississippi, with its ten thousand islands, flowing gently and lin- geringly along the entire side of this district, and as if in regret at leaving so delightful a region. He would see half a dozen navigable rivers taking their sources in distant reigons, and gradually accumulating their waters as they glide steadily along to pay their tribute to the great "Father of Waters"; he would see innumerable creeks and rivulets meandering through rich pasturages, where now the domestic ox has taken the place of the untamed bison; he would see here and there neat groves of oak and elm and walnut, half shading, half concealing beautiful little lakes that mirror back their waving branches; he would see neat looking prairies of two or three miles in extent, and apparently enclosed by woods on all sides and along the borders of which are arranged the neat hewed log cabins of the emigrants with their fields stretching far into the prairies, where the herds are luxuriating on the native grass ; he would see villages springing up as if by magic, along the banks of the rivers, and even far in the interior ; and he would see the swift moving steamboats as they ply up and down the Mississippi to supply the wants of the settlers, to take away their surplus produce, or to bring an accession to this growing population, anx- ious to participate in the enjoyment of nature's bounties, here so liberally dis- pensed.
The products of this district are chiefly mineral and agricultural, though manufacturers will undoubtedly take their place in due time. Bituminous coal, the oxides and sulphurets of iron, limestone, sandstone and fire clay are found in numerous places. But the chief mineral wealth of this region consists in its lead mines. The finest mines in the United States are those near Dubuque, in the northern part of the district. The galena has been found throughout an extensive tract, and I have little doubt it will be found extending entirely across the district, running in a southwest direction toward the mines of Missouri.
The agricultural products consist chiefly of maize, wheat, rye, oats and po- tatoes. The large white corn of the south may be produced as far north as Rock Island and yields from fifty to one hundred bushels per acre; but the yellow flint corn grows well anywhere and yields from forty to seventy-five bushels per acre. The latter is the more certain crop. Wheat is produced with a facility unknown except in the west. I have known the sod of the prairies to be simply turned over, the seed harrowed in, and thirty bushels per acre to be harvested. But the usual crop after the first is from twenty-five to forty bushels per acre, with negligent farming. Oats yield usually from sixty to sev- enty-five bushels per acre and seventy-five bushels have been cut at Dubuque. Potatoes grow abundantly and are famous throughout the west for their fine quality. The growing of stock will undoubtedly be extensively pursued, as few countries afford more facilities for such purposes, and in consequence of the abundance of excellent timber along the rivers and creeks, those towns on the Mississippi, even as far down as St. Louis, will probably in a great measure be supplied with that article from the forests of Iowa. Already numerous mills have been put in operation but lumber for exportation has not yet been thought of by the settlers.
The larger game will of course soon disappear from the settlement, but at present there is a great deal of deer, some bear, and some buffalo within reach.
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HISTORY OF MUSCATINE COUNTY
Turkeys, grouse and ducks will long be abundant, and of fish there can never be any scarcity. Every stream is filled with them and among them may be found the pike, the pickerel, the catfish, the trout and many other varieties. Immense quantities are taken about the several rapids, where they may be easily speared.
The population of the whole district, exclusive of Indians, was about 16,000 at the end of 1835, a time little more than two years after the first settlement was made. During the year 1835, the chief part of this population arrived, and there is every indication of a vast accession in 1836. Indeed, large portions of the states of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois and Kentucky and Missouri seem to be about to emigrate to this region. There are now here emigrants from all these states, and every other state in the Union, as well as many foreigners. Whole neighborhoods are moving from Indiana and Illinois to this land of promise. During a ride of one hundred and fifty miles through the district, in the month of January, 1836, I was surprised at the number of improvements then being made for occupation as soon as the warm season should set in. The character of this population is such as is rarely to be found in our newly acquired terri- tories. With very few exceptions, there is not a more orderly, industrious, active, painstaking population west of the Alleghanies than is this of the Iowa district. Those who have been accustomed to associate the name squatter with the idea of idleness and recklessness would be quite surprised to see the sys- tematic manner in which everything is conducted. For intelligence, I boldly assert that they are not surpassed, as a body, by an equal number of citizens of any country in the world. It is a matter of surprise that about the mining region there should be so little of the recklessness that is usual in that sort of life. Here is a mixed mass of English, French, German, Irish, Scotch and citizens of every part of the United States, each steadily pursuing his own busi- ness without interrupting his neighbor. This regularity and propriety is to be attributed to the preponderance of well informed and well intentioned gentle- men among them, as well as to the disposition of the mass of the people. It is within but a few years past that persons of high and cultivated character have emigrated, in great numbers, to our frontiers. Formerly it was, with some notable exceptions, the reckless in character, the desperate in fortune, or the bold hunter, that sought concealment, wealth or game, in the wilds of the west. Now it is the virtuous, the intelligent and the wealthy that seek in the favored and flowery regions beyond these wilds a congenial abode for themselves and their posterity.
This district, being north of the state of Missouri, is forever free from the institution of slavery, according to the compact made on the admission of that state into the Union. So far as the political wealth and strength is concerned, this is a very great advantage, for the region is too far north for negroes to be profitable. Besides, all experience teaches us that, caeteris paribus, free states grow far more rapidly than slave states. Compare for example, the states of Ohio and Kentucky, and what would not Missouri have now been had she never admitted slavery within her borders?
The population of the surrounding country is very various, whites on one side and Indians on the other. That of Wisconsin and Illinois being immediately
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HISTORY OF MUSCATINE COUNTY
east of the northern part of the district, is very similar to that already described as belonging to the district itself. These people take their tone from the active and enterprising people from the northern and eastern states, while those of the more southern part of Illinois and Missouri partake much more of the char- acter of the middle states.
On the west and the north are the Sauk and Fox, and the Sioux tribes of Indians. These people have become so much reduced in number and are so perfectly convinced of their inferiority, that they will never have an idea of again making war upon our settlements. Their proximity will indeed be rather an advantage to the district than otherwise, as a profitable trade may be carried on with them.
The trade of this district is confined almost entirely to the grand thorough- fare of the Mississippi. By it the produce of the mines is carried away, and all the wants of a new population are supplied. St. Louis is the port through which all the exchanges at present are effected, though the town of Alton on the east side of the Mississippi just above the mouth of the Missouri river, is now setting up a rivalry for this trade. The only important article of export as yet is lead, the amount of which is not correctly ascertained, even for one year, and as it is daily increasing and capable of indefinite extension, it is enough to say that it is a profitable-a very profitable source of trade. The town of Quincy, forty miles below the mouth of the Des Moines, derives its supply of coal from the banks of that river and it is almost certain that a large trade will be carried on in that article, as the demand for it increases.
All kinds of agricultural products have heretofore found ready consumers in the increasing population of every neighborhood, and this cause will continue to afford a market at every man's door for years to come. After the emigration shall have abated, the mines will afford always a ready market for whatever can be produced within reach of them. But should this market fail, there are nu- merous navigable rivers intersecting the district, and leading into the broad Mississippi an ample highway to any part of the world. There are ten or twelve steamboats continually plying between St. Louis and the various ports on the Upper Mississippi, as far up as the Falls of St. Anthony. The usual trip is from St. Louis to the lead mines, a distance of four hundred and fifty miles, to make which requires about three days and an equal time to load and return. This would give an average of more than a boat daily each way, after making allowances for the casualties of trade. But while I am now writing, this thing is all changing; for such is the rapidity of growth of this country and such is the facility with which these people accommodate the wants of the public, that I would not be surprised to find the number of boats doubled within the cur- rent year.
The Mississippi is and must continue to be the main avenue of trade for this country, but there is a reasonable prospect of our soon having a more direct and speedy communication with our brethren of the east. New York is now pushing her railroad from the Hudson to Lake Erie, where it will be met by another from Pennsylvania. Thence the united railroad will be continued around the southern shore of Lake Erie and across the states of Ohio, Indiana and Illinois, to the Mississippi, near the mouth of Rock river, touching upon the
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southern end of Lake Michigan in its route and receiving the tribute of the various local works which it will intersect. This work would place the center of the Iowa district within sixty hours of the city of New York; and if any of the "down-easters" think this project chimerical, let them take a tour of a few weeks to the Upper Mississippi, and they will agree with me that it is already demanded by the interests of the country.
From the Ist of June, 1833, to the 30th of June, 1834, the settlers in this district were without any municipal law whatever. At the latter date congress passed a law attaching it to the territory of Michigan "for judicial purposes," and under that law the legislative council of Michigan extended her laws over the district, dividing it into two counties and providing for the regular adminis- tration of justice. But when Michigan determined to assume her place as one of the states of the Union, she could no longer govern any district as territory. Accordingly, she cast off what was then called Wisconsin, together with this district, directing them to form a government for themselves, and providing that her own laws should continue in force until superseded by others. . Under this provision, the authorities of Iowa district have continued to act, and all the ordinary local business has been transacted regularly under the laws of Michigan though the judge of the district court of the United States has refused to consider any cases of appeal taken to his court from the west side of the Mississippi. It is a matter of some doubt, in fact, whether there be any law at all among these people. But this question will soon be put at rest by the organ- ization of the territory of Wisconsin, within which the Iowa district is by law included.
Though the district may be considered for a time as forming a part of Wis- consin territory, yet the intelligent reader will have little difficulty in foreseeing that a separate government will soon be required for Iowa. Already it has a population of nearly 20,000, which will swell to 30,000 by the close of 1836.
By casting an eye on the map, it will be seen that some of the most beautiful country in the world is lying immediately along this district on the west side. From this country the Indians are now moving over to the Des Moines, and finding the country on the Wabesapinica (Wapsipinicon), the Iowa, the Bison and the Chacagua rivers of no use to them, they are already anxious to sell and the press of population along the border has already created a demand for its purchase. A short time, then, will cause the western boundary of the district to be extended, and with this extension will come corresponding increase of population. It is hazarding little to say that this district will have a population sufficient to entitle it to a place among the states of the Union by the time that the census of 1840 shall have been completed. * * *
The Mississippi river washes one-half of the entire circumference of the district, no part of which, from its peculiar shape, is more than fifty miles from the river. In a country so open as this, where no artificial roads are necessary, this common contiguity of such a river as the Mississippi places every part of it within convenient reach of the balance of the world.
The Mississippi is continually navigated, except when obstructed by ice, by steamboats drawing three feet of water, as far up as Prairie du Chien, and frequently they run up to the Falls of St. Anthony, a distance of eight hundred
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miles from St. Louis. There are only two permanent obstructions to easy navigation, except at very low water, throughout this whole distance, and they occur opposite to different points in the district. The first is the Des Moines rapids, beginning a few miles above the outlet of the river of that name and extending up about fourteen miles to a point nearly opposite the town of Com- merce. In this distance there is a fall of twenty-five feet but the current is never too rapid for boats to stem it, and there is seldom less than three feet of depth in the channel. When the water becomes very low, it is the practice to unload the steamboats, pass them light over the rapids and take the freight over in keelboats of less draught. These keelboats when ascending are towed up along the western shore by horses moving along the natural beach. This rapid is a source of great annoyance, expense and delay, and yet it is so susceptible of being easily improved as to be a matter of surprise that it has not already been done.
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