History of western Iowa, its settlement and growth. A comprehensive compilation of progressive events concerning the counties, cities, towns, and villages-biographical sketches of the pioneers and business men, with an authentic history of the state of Iowa, Part 44

Author: Western Publishing Company, Sioux City, Iowa
Publication date: 1882
Publisher: Sioux City, Western Publishing Company
Number of Pages: 586


USA > Iowa > History of western Iowa, its settlement and growth. A comprehensive compilation of progressive events concerning the counties, cities, towns, and villages-biographical sketches of the pioneers and business men, with an authentic history of the state of Iowa > Part 44


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The bottom lands usually slope towards the streams, and along the West Nishanabotany, which is one of the finest and most beau- tiful valleys in the State, average more than one mile in width, and are lined by narrow clumps of timber. All of the valleys in the county possess a soil of unsurpassed fertility, which, like most other portions of the county, is composed of a fine material known as the bluff deposit. The soil of the whole Northwestern Slope differs from that of the eastern and central portions of the State in that it has not the heavy sub-soil and under-stratum of clay. In Shelby County this peculiarity is quite noticeable, since, after a heavy shower or series of rain storms, plowing may be immediately re- sumed, the water which falls being soon absorbed by the earth, sinking rapidly away on account of the absence of clay to stop or impede its progress. The soil here is a rich, silicious loam, well adapted to the production of the usual western crops, with the single exception of the tame grasses. Corn, for which there is no better or more favorable soil than is found in these valleys, is probably the staple, while wheat, oats and other kinds of grains, as well as the different grasses and vegetables, grow to great perfection.


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The county is thoroughly well watered, the West Nishnabotany River, which flows southward nearly through the middle of the county, receiving from the east the waters of the Middle Nishna- botany, Whitt's and Indian Creeks, while the western part of the county is drained by the affluents of the Missouri and Boyer Rivers, the most important of which are Silver, Mosquito, Pigeon and Picayune Creeks. Mill Creek is a small stream in the north- west, which flows into the Boyer in Harrison County, and on which is Garland's Grove, a fine body of native timber embracing nearly one thousand acres. Besides this, there are several fine groves bordering some of the other streams, which embrace the varieties commonly found throughout this section of the State, such as burr and red oak, white and red elm, butternut, hackberry, black wal- nut, ash, linn and ironwood; while there is often found a heavy growth of sumac, hazel, thornapple, blackberry, gooseberry and grape. Where now may be observed a little outlaying thicket of hazel and sumac- the pioneers of forest increase-a few years hence, unless arested by the devastating fires, groves of thrifty saplings will have sprung up, and thus, within a comparatively short time, by the repetition of this process, the beautiful prairie slopes will be converted into forest-clad ridges and sombre thicket-dells, as wild and uninviting to the agriculturist as the native forests of the middle States. The apparent scarcity of timber in this county is in reality no serious drawback to its rapid settlement, as build- ing lumber can be easily obtained from the pineries of the north, and as these vast meadows of unbounded fertility hold out induce- ments to the settler such as no forest-clad region can boast.


The entire county is supposed to be underlaid by the upper coal measure, as the strata is known to exist in counties to the south and west, but is here concealed under the post teritary deposit not less than 250 feet beneath the surface. The supply of building material is limited, yet a fair quality of brick is made of the mate- rial of the bluff deposit. The only stone obtained for building are the boulders of the drift formation found scattered in various places.


Previous to any permanent settlements in the county, it was frequently visited by trappers and hunters, two men named Bow- man and Berry being among the number. The county was organ- ized in 1853. the following being the first county officers: James M. Butler, County Judge; V. Perkins, Clerk of the District Court; Andrew Foutz. Sheriff. The counties of Crawford and Carroll were at that time attached to Shelby for political, judicial and rey- enue purposes. Judge Samuel H. Riddle held the first session of the District Court for the three counties in the grocery of Solomon Hancock, at Galland's Grove. At this session the following attor- neys were present: H. P. Bennett, of Glenwood; L. M. Cline, A. C. Ford and David Price, of Council Bluffs. At the election which made choice of the first county officers, only thirteen votes were polled.


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About the time of the organization of the county, a town was laid out in the northwest corner township, to which the name of Shelbyville was given, and in 1854 this place was designated as the county seat, but the County Judge, being opposed to it, procured Hancock's grocery for holding the first court. The next term of the District Court was held, however, at Shelbyville. This was the first town laid out in the county, but is now known only in history, as the houses have all been removed to Harlan, and to the neighboring farms. Shelby County sent forty-seven soldiers into the war of the rebellion, though it had no organized company, the volunteers all joining organizations in the neighboring counties. Harlan, of which a lengthy description is given below, is the county seat, other settlements-more or less inconsiderable-in the county being Monteno, Mallory, Defiance, Westphalia, Kirk- man, Shelby and Elk Horn.


HARLAN.


This thriving city, one of the best located and most prosperous on the western slope of Iowa, is situated in Harlan Township, Shelby County, and is the county seat. It is somewhat south of the geographical center of the county, but nevertheless, as a county seat, it is well placed. The exact location is just below the con- fluence of the middle and west branches of the Nishnabotany River, on the west side of the latter branch. The railway facilities of the place are furnished by the Harlan & Northern Branch of the Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific Railroad. This branch is thirteen miles in length, and runs from Avoca, on the main line, to Har- lan. This line runs two mixed trains each way per day, and a large amount of produce is carried over the line. In addition to the railroad already existing, nearly the entire right of way for the building of an extension by the Chicago & Northwestern Rail- way Company from Kirkman to Harlan, seven miles, has been se- cured. The building of the line, however, seems to be surrounded by minor difficulties. The Iowa & Southwestern Railway, one of the Northwestern branch lines, now runs into Kirkman, and it is from this branch the proposed extension will, if present plans are carried out, be built. In addition to this, several other rail- way companies, among them the C., M. & St. P., give indications of probable future building in the same direction. In any event, the day appears not far distant when Harlan will have connection with eastern markets by one or two other routes than the branch line previously mentioned.


Harlan is a handsome place and handsomely situated on rising ground on the west side of the river. There are several slopes from the business portion of town, and the country is delightfully rolling for miles; therefore the drainage and water are excellent, and malarial complaints are almost unknown in the vicinity.


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The city is laid out in a different manner from most northern cities, and but for its life and enterprise, which are apparent at first glance, would give one the impression of a Spanish or Mexican town. Though the city has numerous streets and considerable traffic in all directions, yet the main business por- tion of the place faces the center of the square of about one block in size, in the extreme center of which is enclosed the court-house. The arrangement throws the heavier portion of the trade of the place around a common center, and makes easy of access any business house. The buildings centering around the square are remarkably good for a new city, and many of them are large brick structures that would be a credit to a place three times the size of Harlan. The merchants all seem to be thriving, and heavy and well-selected stocks of goods are the rule. That the business men are well patronized is evidenced by the hundreds of teams that may be seen in the public square on any fine day during the busy season.


The business houses of Harlan may be summed up as follows: Eight general merchandise stores, four drug stores, three banks, representing an aggregate capital of $150,000 or more. boot and shoe store, book and news store, three grocery and crockery stores, two merchant tailor shops, two clothing and hat and cap stores, three hardware stores, two furniture and undertaking establish- ments, three milliners, three dress makers, four agricultural im- plement dealers, three lumber yards, four coal dealers, two jewelers, five land and loan agents, two brokers, five grain dealers, four stock dealers, three newspapers, two photographers, three barbers, three hotels, six restaurants, billiard hall and saloon, billiard hall, four saloons, two livery stables, four blacksmith shops, two black- smith and wagon shops, five paint shops, ten contractors and build- ers of various descriptions, three harness makers, four boot and shoe makers, two bakers, two brickyards, each employing quite a number of men, two grist mills, one run by steam and the other by water, creamery, fence factory, three meat markets, nursery, two butter and egg dealers, house-mover, thirteen insurance agents. One of the blacksmith shops mentioned does considerable machine work. The professions are represented by eighteen attorneys,; eleven physicians, two surveyors, dentist and three music teachers.


Harlan has also become metropolitan enough to maintain a tele- phone exchange. This has thirty-three subscribers, and good use is made of it. This institution was established about a year ago, with twenty or more subscribers, and the list, through good man- agement, has been gradually increasing.


The population of Harlan, by the census of 1880, was 1,303, but the growth of the city has been very rapid since, and the number of residents now variously estimated at from 1,600 to 2,000. The latter figure has been estimated on the vote of last fall, and is probably not far from the correct one. The town is still growing


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at a good rate, and numerous improvements are being made. Among the most worthy of note of these is the brick opera house being erected by J. M. Long, one of Shelby County's old citizens and Harlan's enterprising men. The building will be a two-story brick structure, 44x120 feet in dimensions. The lower story will be divided into stores, and the upper story will be the opera house proper. The cost will be something over $25,000. The work of excavation for the foundation has been nearly completed. and the opening of spring will see building commence. The appointments of the structure will be first-class.


Harlan was named after Iowa's ex-senator of that name.


The survey of the original plat of Harlan was begun April 14th, 1858, by N. M. Kinney, surveyor. The plat comprised eighty acres, and was surveyed for Dr. A. F. Ault. This original plat is now known as "Old Harlan." Previous to this, Dr. Ault and oth- ers had platted a town on the opposite side of the Nishnabotany, which town rejoiced in the euphonious name of "Simoda." Dis- sensions occurred in the ranks of the proprietors of the site, and it was this which led to the laying out of Harlan by Dr. Ault. On July 15th, 1859, James M. Long platted an addition to Harlan of 160 acres. This addition now comprises the central portion of the city. Mr. Long platted a second addition of eighty acres on Sep- tember 16th, 1879. On January 15th, 1880, D. M. Wyland plat- ted the portion of the town known as McDonald's addition. This addition was bought by Wyland after McDonald had platted the land and made arrangements for its recording; hence the reten- tion of the name. On September 7th, 1880, Samuel L. Ganser and D. Z. Ganser platted a small addition of fifteen lots. August 10th, 1SS1, another small addition known as Davis' addition, was plat- ted by J. W. Davis. Wyland's addition of about sixty acres was recorded by C. J. and D. M. Wyland on September 8th, 1SS1. These numerous additions now give a space to the town plat of about a section.


The first settler on the town site of Harlan was Isaac Plum, who came about the time the town was laid out. Of the old settlers living here at present, the second in length of residence is H. C. Holcomb, Clerk of Courts. David Randall is another old settler, as is also Peter Barnett. There were other settlers who came prior to the advent of these gentlemen, but they have moved away. Those named all came in the spring of 1858, as did Dr. Ault who platted the town.


Harlan made no particular growth after the first two years until the railroad was built. In fact, it is stated on good authority that there were more people in the place in 1860 than there were in 1868. The breaking out of the civil war took away a large number who never returned, and various other causes also induced a heavy emi- gration. Since the advent of the railroad, however, the growth of the city has been rapid and uniform, especially during the last two years.


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The buildings of Harlan are mainly of recent construction; but there are one or two that date back almost to the time the orig- inal town plat was made. Among these is E. Bergstresser's dwell- ing house, which was the second dwelling erected in Harlan. This building was originally erected as a store in the spring of 1858. It has since been enlarged and remodeled. The next oldest build- ing standing is William Errett's dwelling, erected by Isaac Plum in 1859. The Court House, though it had two predecessors, one of which was burned and the other turned into a tenement house, is also an old building. The last named structure, it must be stated, is a frame building of very indifferent character, and does not do an enterprising city like Harlan any great amount of credit. There is, however, a probability that a better building will be erected. This is greatly needed and will be hailed with gratitude by the majority of the people in Shelby County.


Harlan was incorporated in May, 1879, as a city of the second class. The first officers of the city were: Wm. Wyland, Mayor; Cyrus Beard, Recorder. The Trustees were, J. M. Long, Thomas Ledwich, D. M. Wyland, Peter Brazie, John Coenen, J. B. Stuts- man. G. S. Rainbow was the first Marshal, and G. S. Gibbs the first City Treasurer. The present officers are: Thomas Ledwich, Mayor; Cyrus Beard, Recorder; D. M. Wyland, G. S. Gibbs, T. J. Robinson, John Coenen, J. B. Stutsman, E. J. Trowbridge, Trus- tees. L. D. Frost is City Treasurer; G. W. Watkins, Marshal; H. M. McGinnis, Street Commissioner.


The first postoffice established in the vicinity of Harlan was at the original town site, Simoda, in the summer of 1858. Samuel Dewell, at present postmaster at River Sioux, Harrison County, was the first appointed to the office. After some squabbling, the county seat was removed to Harlan in 1859, and the postoffice fol- lowed a few days after. The first postmaster, after the removal of the office to Harlan, was A. L. Harvey. Mr. Harvey was succeeded by D. H. Randall, still a resident of Harlan. At that time official red tape was not interwoven in the postoffice so closely as at pres- ent, and the mail, which was extremely small, was kept in a nail- keg or candle-box and stowed away in a corner. As occasion re- quired, the box or keg was emptied out on the floor and the "boys" told to pitch in and sort the letters for themselves. The business of the office is now very large, and the candle-box system cannot well be continued. The present postmaster is B. I. Kinsey, who has held the office about fourteen years. The office was made a money order office July 1st, 1877.


The first mercantile business in Harlan was carried on by Dr. Ault, the founder of the town, who, about the time the town was platted, put in a small stock of general merchandise. The greater portion of the goods was carried in his arms by the Doctor from some neighboring town. This, though the first store in Harlan, did not pay well, and it was soon closed out.


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The newspapers of Harlan are three in number and all are paying property. The date of the establishment of the first newspaper in Harlan or Shelby County is somewhat obscured by the dust of an- tiquity, but the "oldest inhabitant" sets down a paper known as the Courier, published at Shelby, as the first paper issued in the county. The publisher's name is not given. Several papers were started in Harlan before either of the present ones, but none of them "came to stay." In regard to those now in Harlan, we quote the following from a local writer:


The Harlan Herald was established in December, 1874, by Geo. Musgrave as a Republican journal, and has continued steadily on in that line to date. In 1875 George D. Ross purchased the office, and in 1876 he also bought the Shelby County Record, merged it into the Herald, continuing its publication until July 16th, 1877, when he sold the office and real estate to R. W. Robins. January 17th. 1880, C. R. Pratt, of Essex, Connecticut, bought a half-in- terest, sold out in December, 1880, to E. R. Parmelee, and March 1st, 1881, bought R. W. Robins' half interest. E. R. Parmelee came to Harlan in October, 1880. An interest in the office was recently pur- chased by a brother of Mr. Pratt, the firm now being Pratt Brothers.


Up to 1880 the paper was a seven -column quarto, when it was enlarged to nine columns, and served to a complete new dress, and an excellent cylinder power press ad led to the office. It is the largest paper ever published in the county, and has a large circula- tion. It is issued weekly, on Thursdays.


The Harlan Tribune, the first Democratic newspaper in Harlan, was established in June 1880, by U. S. Brown and A. D. Tinsley.


U. S. Brown commenced the newspaper business about thirteen years ago as editor of the Moberly Daily, at Moberly, Mo. From there he went to Lawrence, Kansas, as city editor of the Kansas Daily Tribune. About eight years ago he came to Iowa-first to Burlington as city editor of the Gazette; from there to Indianola, Warren county, as local editor of the Indianola Tribune. In Jan- uary, 1879, he came to Harlan and engaged with George D. Ross as editor of the Herald, continuing about four months. In the latter part of May he commenced canvassing for the establishment of the Tribune, and succeeded in working up for it a liberal patronage. In March, 1881, he was elected city assessor.


The Tribune is now published by A. D. Tinsley.


The Harlan Hub was established in December, 1880, by Webb M. Oungst, who commenced the newspaper business about twelve years ago, at the case, in Grand Junction. He was afterwards em- ployed by Mills & Co., of Des Moines, and with State Printer G. W. Edwards, and still later as foreman and local editor of the Cres- ton Gazette, owning a half-interest therein. He came to Harlan, June 6th, 1879, and was foreman about two months in the Trib- une office, and thereafter foreman in the Herald office, until he es- tablished the Hub. The Hub, like its contemporaries, is flourishing.


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The stage facilities of Harlan are very adequate. Daily trips are made between Harlan and Kirkman, semi-weekly between Harlan and Denison, and tri-weekly between Harlan and Dunlap and intermediate points, weekly between Harlan and Logan. There is no trouble in obtaining transportation to almost any neighbor- ing point on either of the railroads in this section of Iowa.


CHURCHES, SCHOOLS AND SOCIETIES.


Methodist Church Society .- This was the first religious society established in Harlan, and was organized in 1859 with one member, Aaron Bergstresser. The church was organized by Rev. J. J. Stewart, Presiding Elder. Harlan was formerly called Harlan Mission of the Council Bluffs District, Iowa Annual Conference. The records of the church are not in a very complete condition, but from them it is learned, that the first preacher to introduce worship in Shelby County, under the auspices of the M. E. church was Rev. H. A. Tarkington, not long before the establishment of the Harlan society. The first regular Methodist pastor appointed for Harlan was Rev. Kirtland Card, who came in the early part of 1859. The present pastor is Rev. D. C. Franklin, who is now serving his third year. The church edifice was erected in 1872. It is in size 30x50 feet, but a contract has been signed for enlarging the building. The church has in connection a flourishing Sabbath School of about 100 members. The school started shortly after the establishment of the church. The present Superintendent is J. M. True.


The Christian Church .- This society was organized February 18th, 1876, by Rev. C. W. Sherwood. The first regular pastor was Elder T. V. Berry, who was installed some time during the organ- ization year. The society was organized with thirty-one members, but thirty-two names were sent in during the organization meet- ing, which made a total of sixty-three. The highest membership attained by the society was 122. The present membership, though over 100, is not quite up to this point. The church has a Sabbath School in connection, with an average attendance of about seventy. The school was started the same year. 'The present Superinten- dent is Mrs. M. Nance. The church building was erected in the early part of 1880. Previous meetings were held in the Court House and elsewhere. The size of the building is 34x56 feet. Prayer meetings are held on every Wednesday evening. The present pastor is Elder J. P. Lucas, who came in October, 1881.


Congregational Church Society .- A Congregational Society was organized in Harlan in July, 1871. There were seven members at the outset, but six more names were eventually added, making thirteen in all. This society, which had at no time a regular pas- tor, fell into decay. A small Presbyterian Society, which had also been organized in Harlan, was likewise in a poor condition, and in October, 1878, the society held a joint meeting with a view to re-


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organizing both societies as one. The result of the meeting was the disbanding of both societies, and the formation of a new one. A vote was taken as to the question of denominational precedence, and the result was a Congregational Society, which was organized November 10th, 1878. This society had twenty-three members. Prayer meetings were held on and after February 26th. 1879. The society was dependent on supplies for its preaching till July 1st, 1879, when Rev. J. G. Sabin was appointed regular pastor. The church is at present served by Rev. E. L. Sherman, who has been in charge since August, 1881. Meetings are at present held in the Court House, but a frame church, 32x50 feet, is in course of con- struction, and will be completed within a few weeks. There is also a Sabbath School of about 125 members, of which M. K. Campbell is Superintendent. This school has been in existence since July 6th, 1879. The church has at present sixty-two mem- bers, and is in a healthy condition.


Reorganized Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints .- The Harlan branch of this society was organized during the year 1872. The first regular pastor in Harlan was Elder Frank Rey- nolds, who came in 1872. The society was organized with fifteen members. Meetings have been usually held in the Court House, but now school houses in the suburbs are considerably used. The present pastor is Elder John Hardman. The present membership is forty-eight. It is still growing. The ladies of the society have organized for the purpose of raising a fund to be devoted to the erection of a church building, and a considerable sum of money has already been secured. It is expected that work will be com- menced on a building the coming summer. The church has no Sabbath School, though one is being organized.


Baptist Church Society .-- This society was organized in the year 1868. Rev. James Lambert was the first pastor. The first meet- ings of the society were held in the school house, but in the sum- mer of 1870 a frame church 25x50 feet in dimensions, was erected. The present membership of the society is about 125, and it is in a prosperous condition. Rev. A. Jacobs is the minister.


Independent School District of Harlan .- This district was or- ganized as an independent district in March, 1875. Previous to this it was a sub-district of Harlan township. The first School Di- rectors were: H. C. Holcomb, J. W. Chatburn, F. A. Bayer. Since then the law has been changed so as to require six Directors. The Secretary and Treasurer are also independent of the Board. The following are the present members of the Board: N. W. Macy, President; C. J. Wyland, E. B. Moore, M. M. Bechtel. W. A. Gray, G. W. Cullison. F. A. Bayer is Secretary and O. P. Wy- land Treasurer. The present school building is a four-room frame structure, built in 1875. Two other rooms are rented. Six teach- ers are employed. The Principal is A. K. Lind, and the surbordin- ates W. K. Colburn, Mrs. M. E. McArthur, Miss A. George, Mrs.




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