USA > Indiana > Allen County > Fort Wayne > Fort Wayne, Indiana, city directory, 1885-86 > Part 40
USA > Indiana > Allen County > Fort Wayne > Fort Wayne, Indiana, city directory, 1885-86 > Part 40
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Suddenly the order comes "Starboard," and as the steamer's bow gradually turns towards the shore, Cheboygan river unexpectedly opens up to view, and we plow our way among lumber piles and floating logs, which so block the harbor at times that the services of another tug is required to take us in and out. Propellers, with their wheels less exposed, make things lively, and take out logs, boom and all into the lake. Here is an instance where it would seem that "might makes right," the pleasure of the lumber kings being more potent at Cheboygan than the local government, which they are largely instrumental in creating. Were a lot of farm wagons to block their street, the owners would soon be brought to account from these same obstructionists, but the shipping, the best element of their prosperity, must bear these indignities without redress. On arriving at the wharf, many passengers for Petoskey leave us and take the pleasant inland route through the crooked lakes and rivers. It is a novel trip, without it those who make their first visit to Mackinac fall short of a complete tour, and in connection with the Detroit and Cleveland Steam Navigation Company, it forms the only attractive and comfortable route from the east and south to this paradise for rest and recreation. Some make their first visit to Mackinac and take the inland route from there, or go down by rail at their leisure.
As the whistle sounds the warning of departure, stragglers hasten on board, the gang plank is hauled in, and the steamer, tied to the wharf by a stern line, and laboring hard with the engine, slowly swings round in the narrow river, and works her way into the lake, or is towed out to the dummy light. Rounding this, we head for Mackinac Island, which looms up sixteen miles away. Its magnetic influence seems to be felt even at this distance. There is much to interest in this short run. A landscape of unrivaled beauty is spread out before us. On the port bow is seen Mackinac City, and farther on to the northwest looms up on the horizon the island of St. Helena
The many trails of smoke in the distance are from steamers passing to and from Lake Michigan. Directly ahead are Rabbit's Back and the highlands of St. Ignace, at whose feet lies the town, apparently walled in by the Martel iron furnace on the left and ore docks on the right. On the starboard bow we see what seems to be one long, continuous stretch of shore, but which breaks away as we approach, and proves to be Bois Blanc, (Bob-low) Round and Mackinac Islands. In justfifty minutes from the Dummy, the captain is on a sharp look-out for the glimpse of Bois Blanc Light, (or its flash by night) which, being on the farther side of the island, can only be seen for a moment as we pass the intervening water to Round Island. On its reappearance on the other side of Round Island, the course is changed, and Mackinac Island and village are distinctly seen, another change, and the steamer, with a sudden turn swings quickly and gracefully into the crescent bay, upon whose shores once dwelt the red-skinned Ottawa, and about whose island home, rising three hundred feet above the clear, blue waters, still cluster the mystic halo of song, romance and legend.
The first-class service of the Detroit and Cleveland Steam Navigation Company's
-
LAKE MICHIGAN
CHEBOYGAN !!
DOUGLASL
MULLET LAKE
BLACK LAKE
MULLET LAKE HOTEL.
ODEN
CROOKED
LAKEE
PETOSKEY
VAN SEY EN-GO SC.
CHARLEVOIX
Bird's Eye View of the Straits of Mackinac, showing the Inland route, Mackinac to Petoskey, and Sault Ste. Marie.
Steamers is unparalleled for Luxury, Comfort and Economy.
HMARQUETTE GRAND ISL
WHITE FISH BAY " ST.MARY'S RIVER
SUGART
HAY LAKEN
STE.MARIE
ST.JOSEP
NORTH PASS
PALMS
MILLE COQUINS.
MORAN
DRU MMUND
5
LES CHENAUX
7
MACKINAC ISL.
STRAITS OF MACKINAC
BOIS BLANC I
HURON
D.& C. S.N.CO'S LINE
BEAVERISL.
OMACKINAW CITY
LAKE
DETOURPAS
MANISTIQUE
ST.IGNACE
IS-
NEWBERRY
SAULT
MCMILLAN
MUNISING
MUDLAKE
AU TRAIN
PICTURED ROCKS.
LAKE SUPERIOR
BURT LAKE
ACKINAC ISLAND, the rock girt, fairy isle, sitting like an emerald gem in the clear, pellucid wave, rises gradually and majestically from the crystal waters, which cover but cannot conceal the glistening, white pebbly depths beneath. It is the central point of VANI-CO. STARR'S ROUTE the three great lakes. It knows no land breeze, hence the winds are always cool and refreshing, and seem incessantly tossing balls at each other. They no sooner cease blowing from Lake Michigan than they come from Lake Huron, and Lake Superior is never behind in the contest. Mackinac Island con- tains two thousand two hundred and twenty-one acres, of which the national park comprises eight hundred and twenty- one, and the military reservation one hundred and three acres. The natural scenery is unsurpassed. Nature seems to have exhausted herself in the manifold objects of interest which meet the eye in every direction. The lover of Mother Earth will hardly grow weary of wandering through its shaded glens, and climbing over its rugged rocks, each day bringing to light some new object of beauty and interest. Longfellow, in his poem of " Hiawatha " has put into English verse some of its wild Indian legends, which people every rock and glen with spectral habitants. Hiawatha is the Mena-bosho of the Algonquins, and the Island of Mackinac was considered his birthplace.
If the poetic muses are ever to have a new Parnassus in America, they should certainly fix on Mackinac Island. Hygeia, too, should place her temple here, for it is one of the purest, dryest, clearest and most healthiui of atmospheres. The Island shows unmista kable evidence of the water having once been two hundred and fifty feet above its present line. It is a mooted question whether the lake has fallen from its original level, or the island has, from some cause, been lifted up. Springs of water, clear and cold, may be found at the base of the high cliffs, and scattered through other localities.
Mackinac village is a perfect curiosity in itself. Situated at the foot of the bluff, upon the brow of which stands the fort, it extends for a distance of a mile along the beach. The buildings are a mixture of the modern and antique, some of which were brought from Old Mackinaw when the town and fort were removed from that point after the massacre of June 4, 1763. Many of the fences are of the original palisade style.
Schoolcraft, who visited it in 1820, says: "Nothing can exceed the beauty of this island." It is a mass of calcareous rock, rising from the bed of Lake Huron, and reaching a height of more than three hundred feet above the water. Some of its cliffs shoot up per- pendicularly, and tower in pinnacles like half ruined gothic steeples. It is cavernous in some places, and in these caverns the ancient Indians were wont to place their dead. Por- tions of the beach are level, and well adapted to landing from boats. The harbor at the south end is a little gem. In it, vessels can anchor and be sure of a holding, and around it, the little old fashioned French town nestles in primitive style, while above frowns the fort, its white walls gleaming in the sun. The whole area of the island is one labyrinth of curious glens and valleys. Old fields appear in spots which were formerly cultivated by Indians. In some of them are circles of gathered stones, as if the Druids themselves had dwelt there. The soil, though rough, is fertile. The Island was formerly covered with a dense growth of rock maple, oak, iron wood, etc., and there are still parts of this ancient forest left, but all the southern limits exhibit a young growth. There are walks and winding paths of the most romantic character among its hills and precipices. From the eminences overlooking the lake can be seen magnificent views of almost illimitable extent.
You will make no mistake if you go a little out of your way
The late Dr. Drake says: "The island is the last, and, of the whole, the most impor- tant summer resort to which we can direct the attention of the infirm or the fashionable. The living streams of pure water, cooled down to the temperature of 44°, gush from the lime rock precipices, and an atmosphere never sultry or malarious, supersedes all necessity for nauseating iron, sulphur and epsom salts. As a health resort it is unsurpassed. Its cool air and pure water are just what are needed to bring back the glow of health to the faded cheek, and send the warm currents of life dancing through the system with youthful vigor." Its natural beauties and historic associations, together with the innumerable lesser attrac- tions which cluster round about, serve to furnish visitors with so much entertainment and variety for either the robust or weakly ones, that ennui which eventually is felt at most resorts need not be experienced here. In Mackinac you eat with a new relish, and sleep like a child. You row, or ramble, scarcely able to keep your buoyancy within bounds. Dr. Mills, once post surgeon at Mackinac, says: "No better place can be found for sickly girls and puny boys, for worn out men and women, whether from overworked brain or muscle, or for those inclined to hypochondria. A change from the tiresome sameness of home scenes cannot fail to benefit all. From the hour of entering Lake Huron, your feelings will indicate that you have passed beyond the reign of miasma, fever, dyspepsia, blue devils and duns, and you look back upon the whole of them with gay indifference, or a feeling of good- natured contempt, as every turn of the steamer's wheel carries you farther into the temperate and genial climate of the lakes, and away from your perplexities. Under these influences real diseases may abate, and the imaginary ones be forgotten. In the celebrated white fish (classical name, coregonus albus, signifying food of the nymphs), is found a native whose acquaintance is liable to but one objection, that of destroying the taste for any other fish, and which, with the trout and potatoes of the island render all foreign delicacies superfluous. We would caution the gourmand, however, against an excessive use of trout, which are said to produce drowsiness, for those who visit Mackinac should be wide awake, lest some scene of interest should pass unobserved.
Besides the agreeable change of climate on reaching Mackinac, there is the new sensation to one who has not before enjoyed the novelty of an insular life, of having found an island retreat. To his jaded sensibilities all around him is fresh, a feeling of security comes over him, and when, from the rocky battlements of the fort, he looks down on the surrounding waters, they seem a bulwark of defense against the host of annoyances from which he has sought a refuge. Thus the curative state of mind begins to act on the body from the first moment, and this salutary mental excitement will not soon die away, for the historic associations, not less than the surrounding scenery, are well fitted to maintain it, and to make the invalid forget his ailments. Dr. Mann says, "A few whiffs of the air would make your lungs give a hygienic laugh. This air must have been left clear out of Eden, and did not get cursed. Children are crazy with animal spirits, and eat in such a way as to demonstrate the paradox that the quantity contained may be greater than the container." These extracts will no doubt meet with a hearty response from thousands who have visited Mackinac.
At watering-places generally, all the features of the surrounding scenery are soon familiarized to the eye, which then merely wanders over the commingled throngs of coquettes, dandies, dancers and idlers, and soon returns to inspect the real or fancied in- firmities of its possessor. A visit to Mackinac reverses all this. The attractions of the sur- rounding region are of a different and more wholesome kind, and draw to them those who seek health and recreation, and offer a delightful hot weather asylum to all who need to escape from crowded cities or a sultry climate. Besides this, the voyage imparts a pleasing excitement to the faculty of observation, curiosity is stirred up to the highest pitch, and pleasantly gratified by the hourly unfolding of fresh scenes of nature, some new blending of land and water, a group of islands different from the last, or a shifting series of painted clouds seen in the kaleidoscope of heaven afford constant variety, while the frequent trips of the Detroit and Cleveland Steam Navigation Company's steamers enable you to return as soon as desired.
Constance Fennimore Woolson knew the charm of the place when she made it the scene of so many romances, among them being the novel "Anne," and the short sketches, " Flower of the Snows," "The Old Agency," "Jeannette," and " Fairy Island."
To reach the Detroit & Cleveland Steam Navigation Co.'s Steamers.
AULT ST. MARIE, via Petoskey and Mackinac Island. One of the grandest trips in the world. How B. and W. spent a wock. The beautiful steamer "City of Mackinac" left Detroit at 22 o'clock Saturday night, landing us in Cheboygan Monday morning, at 5 o'clock. A stroll through the town gave an appetite for breakfast, which we obtained at the hotel near by. The steamer " Mary" came in from Mackinac Island, and left the adjoining wharf, at 9 o'clock for a trip to Petoskey, by the wonderfully novel and attractive Inland Route, through crooked rivers and beautiful lakes. Our baggage was transferred to this landing without expense, and we boarded the little steamer, which headed up the Cheboygan, picking her way through logs, which generally obstruct the river. An industry peculiar to northern Michigan was indicated by busy sawmills; and though piles of lumber obstructed our view, we caught glimpses of our winding course, in time to save a dawning conviction that the trip must end there. A sharp angle brought to view a lock, the rear gate of which was closed. On our entering, the water from the river, ten feet above, was gradually let in from the bottom, and our craft lifted to the upper level.
Three miles above this point, Black river empties into the Cheboygan, and is the outlet of Black lake, which is twelve miles from the junction of the two rivers, and covers an area of six by four miles. Rapids, within a few miles of the lake, make further navigation by steamer impossible. A panorama of beautiful landscape is opened as we proceed, and Mullet lake, with its placid waters, wooded shores and attractive spots for camping was reached before noon. The lake is six miles above Cheboygan, and is a beautiful body of water, twelve miles long, and from five to eight wide. It is full of fish, and its borders abound in game. Into it empty Pigeon, Indian and Sturgeon rivers. On the right, nearly across the lake, is Toppinabee. The Northern Hay Fever Association, Pike's Hotel, Railway station, telegraph office and stores are located here. Three miles farther on is the Mullet Lake House, where we stopped for dinner. This fine summer hotel, which is situated on a beautiful spot overlooking the lake, cost $50,000, has seventy-five large, airy rooms, ele- gantly furnished, and is especially attractive for families, being a paradise for children. The house opens June 20.
Soon after dinner, we proceeded by a smaller steamer, the " Northern Belle," which though drawing but thirty inches of water, often gets very near the bottom. At the bend in the river one could easily jump ashore from bow or stern. This species of miniature navi- gation presents many little surprises to the tourist, which serve to while away the hours and fill the mind with pleasant recollections.
Soon after leaving the Mullet Lake house, we entered Indian river, which some poet has likened to a "silver thread on Nature's carpet." Seven miles of beautiful river scenery, and Indian river village is reached, five of these crooked miles, which cover all points of the compass, would make only three as the crow flies. Fishing and shooting parties in boats, were met, and towed by our accommodating captain to points farther on. After leaving this romantic little village, we had fallen into a quiet contemplation of our novel surroundings, when we were startled out of our reveries by a shrill whistle, seemingly coming but a few feet away from the bank of the river, and the next moment we were hardly less surprised to see the small steam yacht " Louie " suddenly shoot out from behind a bend just ahead. It seemed a saucy affair, both the whistle and the sudden appearance; the little craft as much as saying: "Look out there! I claim the right of way here!" She contained a pleasure
The Detroit & Cleveland Steam Navigation Company have adopted
party, and the engineer, some eight years of age, sat unconcernedly by the boiler, answer- ing signals given by the captain at the wheel. It seemed at times impossible to navigate so crooked a stream, the steamer going at the bank as if it meant to jump it, but a clever turn of the wheel brought us out all right, causing little damage-to the shore.
A conspicuous sign on the bank indicated that the cluster of Indian huts, settler's cabins and tents of tourists was styled "Columbus Landing," and while gazing at it, the steamer shot into Burt's lake, unnoticed. An odd looking steam craft seen off at a distance, proved to be a floating saw-mill, which ties up to the farmer's docks, and saws their lumber almost at their doors. At the small wharves along the shore, the steamer, if signalled, will stop. In case there is no landing, passengers frequently come out in small boats. Burt's lake is ten miles long and five wide. It is fed by Crooked, Maple and Sturgeon rivers, all large streams. Maple river is also the outlet of Douglass lake, which lies two miles north. Once across this lake we suddenly swung in apparently for the shore, but no; it proved to be for the mouth of a river, narrower and more crooked than we had yet seen. The passage of Crooked river, seven miles long, was the most highly interesting and novel portion of the trip. We wondered how the steamer would be able even to enter, as floating logs filled all the space, the very mouth being closed by a boom to keep them in. A rope was hitched to the . stake, which the steamer pulled out, letting the boom go, and we went at the jam of logs at full speed, jumping some, pushing others with pike poles, and so making our way in amongst them. The river drivers, with red pantaloons and spiked boots, skipped around on the logs with a careless indifference to their uncertain footing, that would have sent a novice into the water at short notice. With their pike poles they rendered efficient aid, and after much pushing, pulling and butting, we finally got clear. Once more well into the river, our at- tention was absorbed with the navigating of the little steamer. Owing to the narrow, wind- ing course, at times it seemed impossible to go farther, but by making very short turns and winding around abrupt angles, we threaded the labyrinth, being able, quite often, to pick evergreens from the shore on either side. Bump she would go into the bank, her stern swinging in, and off again for the opposite bank, and so on for miles. A short distance beyond the jam of logs, a lighter, containing kitchen and bunks, was being floated along, to be within easy reach for meals and shelter for the men on the drive just passed. Farther on was the tail end of the drive, a single man gathering stray logs into a raft, his boat tied astern. It was all very interesting, the scenery beautiful and the whole affair novel in the extreme. We shortly entered Crooked lake; which is five miles long, and famous for bass fishing, and numerous delightful locations for camping along its shores. In a few moments we were landed in the woods at Odin, at the head of the lake; and we bade good bye to the little steamer and its good natured captain with regret.
The Dummy, another novelty, was waiting at the station to take us the last eight miles of our journey, over the G. R. & I. R. R. track, to Petoskey. Its open cars afforded a splen- did view en route, of the Bay View, Harbor Springs and Point resorts for cottagers. As we looked across the beautiful bay, the whole scene reminded us of an amphitheatre on a grand scale. Our train stopped at the Arlington hotel in time for supper, and a stroll about the young but famous town, before the departure of the train for Mackinac City, 33 miles away. We then took the ferry steamer "Algomah " for Mackinac Island, 7 miles distant. Some of our fellow passengers stopped at Mackinaw City over night, at the Wentworth house, which is over the railroad station, and went over to the Island in the morning.
While this is only Monday night, we have seen so much, and every moment has been so thoroughly full of enjoyment, it seems a week since we left our busy cares behind. A stay on Mackinac Island until Wednesday morning affords an opportunity of seeing the wonders of the place, so wisely reserved by the government as a national park, about which so much has been written, and to which so many pilgrimages are annually made, increasing steadily each year, as returning tourists tell of the sights seen, and the invigorating influences of the delightful trip.
On this trip, however, our time being short, we hunted up the "charioteer" before re- Aring, and engaged a seat in the chariot for a morning ride over the "Star Route," which comprises the most wonderful of the many wonders to be found. Fifty cents was the charge for this ride of about 7 miles. Another trip is made in the afternoon, or one can take a car- riage and go farther. A walk over the by-paths will also be interesting. Here, invalids,
The common sense plan of making separate charges for Meals and Berths.
who would hardly think of doing so at home, walk long distances in the bracing air without fatigue. One of the ferry steamers generally makes the trip to Hundred Islands (Le Che- neaux) for the day. This disposed of Tuesday, and the following morning, after breakfast, one of the day steamers called, on her way from Cheboygan, and we jumped aboard for a trip up the beautiful Soo river (Sault St. Marie). Skirting the rocky cliffs of the Isle, we passed down the west shore of Lake Huron. At noon a landing was made at Detour, just at the entrance to the land locked waters of the Soo, whose repeated changes from a narrow entrance to a broad lake. then to a narrow, rapid river, and again to lakes, rivers and rapids, and its crooked courses around islands, which the currents have thus far failed to wash away, form a varied and charming experience scarcely ever surpassed. The passage of the Soo river must be made by daylight, and vessels are timed accordingly. Should they arrive at night, they anchor until the early dawn. The steamers of this line are the only ones that make the passage by mid-day. The channels are narrow, shallow and crooked. Boulders and shoals hidden just out of sight, lie all about, and sailors keep a sharp look-out here. The Sault St. Marie river connects lakes Superior and Huron, is sixty-two miles in length, and forms the boundary between the United States and Canada. Its mouth is a mile wide. Drummond's Island lies on the east, the main shore of Michigan on the west of the entrance. Pipe Island is four miles; St. Joseph's Island, Canada, with its old fort, eight miles; Lime Island ten miles; and Round Island eleven miles from the entrance. Potagannissing Bay, dotted with numerous small islands lying to the eastward, communicates with the north channel. Mud lake, six miles farther on, is four miles in width. Sailor's Encampment Island is twenty miles from Lake Huron, and is a famous camping place. There is excellent fishing and shooting; and supplies, small boats and small steam craft can be readily obtained. Here are found families, parties and fishing and shooting clubs, who for a short period seek relief from the strain of business, social and domestic cares, and the stifling atmosphere of closely packed cities. With a simple outfit consisting of wall tent, rubber and woolen blankets, a few tin dishes, and a compliment of cast-off clothing, they leave their homes, offices and school-rooms; and come out to this delightful region, assume the free habits of the natives, eat, sleep and are merry as seldom before, gain health and strength from the first breath of the pure, dry air of this wonderful Mackinac region, and return to their various callings with renewed vigor and a new lease of life. Hay fever sufferers, who are wise, come before the appearance of the annual attack, and wholly escape the malady, while even the tardy ones find their sufferings at once mitigated.
Continuing our course, the steamer seems to be heading straight for the shore, until a narrow outlet comes suddenly into view, and we enter the Nebish Rapids, passing between Sailor's Encampment and St. Joseph's Islands. From this on is to be seen the most varied and charming scenery. Indian villages, settlements and beautiful farms, serve to make a most interesting panorama. Lake George, six miles farther on, is an expansion of the river, nine miles long and four wide. It has thirteen feet of water over the shoals, and terminates at Church's Landing. Squirrel Island, Canada, lies opposite. Garden River Settlement, three miles distant, is an Indian town in Canada. Little Lake George comes next, then Point Aux Pines. Three miles farther, we pass around the head of Sugar Island, and eight miles beyond reach Sault St. Marie, fifty-five miles from Lake Huron at six o'clock in the evening, having supper on the steamer. Sault St. Marie is fifteen miles from Lake Superior, and there is much that is interesting about the odd old place. Here is situated the famous ship canal, built by the State of Michigan for the purpose of passing the rapids. The U. S. Govern- ment enlarged this canal, and constructed a new ship lock 615 feet long and 80 feet wide, having a lift of 18 feet. The scene witnessed on passing through the canal locks, is most interesting and exciting. The ship canal, river, island, and the two villages are in sight on either side of the stream. The Indians in their birch canoes are engaged in taking white fish below the rapids.
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