USA > Massachusetts > Suffolk County > Boston > History of Boston, the metropolis of Massachusetts, from its origin to the present period; with some account of the environs > Part 12
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111
HISTORY OF BOSTON.
greatly widened and improved by building, and the whole ex- tent has been raised by art above its original level : other- wise the neck has undergone but little alteration. It is hard- ly necessary to state that the neck has been overflowed in many parts, within the recollection of people now living.'
On the west side of the neck we have the receiving basin of the mill-dam, and as we advance north from that we enter Charles River, which washes the western shore of the penin- sula, and empties itself into the bay between Copp's hill and Charlestown. There its breadth is about 600 yards : towards the south part of the town it widens into a bay of considera- ble extent, but the channel becomes narrow and innavigable by large vessels at low tide. Formerly also there was a spacious cove on the Boston side, still nearer the mouth of the river. This afterwards became the mill pond by the erection of the causeway from Prince-street G c to Leverett street Dd. The waters of ' the mill cove' came up to the south-west side of Prince-street below Thacher-street, where they took a turn northerly and up towards the bottom of Snow-hill-street. The northerly end of Thacher-street lay open till within a very few years. The south side of Prince street above this spot was marsh, and so was the west side of Back-street. A causeway was also erected on this side, for the convenience of passengers to the mill ; it lay east of the present site of the First Baptist meeting-house, and opened a few rods east of Thacher-street.
Until 1807, when the mill pond began to be filled up, about one half the Baptist meeting-house mentioned stood over the water, and the margin of the pond ran in a south by west line to the south mills, which stood at the entrance on Mill-pond- street, near the furniture warehouse of Mr. Beals. Verging thence a little more westerly, it passed across Union, Friends' and Portland-street towards the bottom of Hawkins', whence it took a westerly course across Pitt's and Gooch-street to the entrance from Leverett-street, which at one time bore the name of Mill-alley. Not far from this spot we find the record of a 'small creck,' as the west bounds of an estate, Alexan- der Beck's, which had ' the cove north, and John Leverit south,' from whom Leverett-street has probably derived its name.
The descent to the water here was very steep. The south- west side of Leverett-street, opposite this opening, stands on rising ground from which we may commence our ascent to . one portion of the chief of the three hills. A street was early laid out in the vicinity, if not in the very course of Temple-street, and those among us not very old can well re- member Beacon hill steps, which stood at the head of it, to
112
HISTORY OF BOSTON.
conduct us to a spot that we shall ever recollect with pleasure and regret.
The top of this beautiful hill was 138 feet and a half above the level of the sea. It afforded 'an extensive and most en- chanting prospect of the country round,' and of the islands in the harbour. The spirit of speculation has in an evil hour laid it low, and posterity must satisfy themselves with a dull description instead of enjoying the reality.
Beacon hill with its two eminences embraced about a hun- dred acres of ground, extending through the centre of the peninsula, from the river to the coves. The view given in page 46, exhibits as exact a representation of its original ap- pearance seen from Charlestown, as we have been able to ob- tain. Probably it was better wooded. Of late years, while it laid open as a pasture ground for cattle, the barberry and the wild rose grew upon it. The eminence almost contiguous to Beacon hill on the east, was rather higher than that on its western side. It reached towards Tremont-street (lately so called) and thence with a very slow descent in three di- rections led to the Springate, the Market cove, and the Mill pond, through Sudbury-street. The grounds occupied by the gardens of Messrs. Phillips, Green, and Lloyd, we conjecture to have been 'the three little rising hills,' from which arose the name of T'rea-Mount, as the street was first officially designated in 1708 .*
The westernmost eminence or left shoulder of this hill, as Johnson might call it, making no unapt comparison of the three to the head and shoulders of a man, was farther from the beacon, and occupied what is now called Mount Vernon. The highest points were probably between Sumner and Pinckney-streets, giving an easy descent towards Cambridge- street on the north, and a more rapid one to Beacon-street south. On the top, directly opposite the Charles-street meet- ing-house, there was, and continues to be, a boiling spring, which is now open in three places, at a height not less than cighty feet above the water. The west side of this hill ap- pears to have been rough and precipitous, though several streets are now constructed over it, which afford a more gen- tle, if not entirely safe approach to the river.
' A certain writer, in mentioning this river, quaintly says, the subject is dry though watery ; and is not considerable, otherwise than in settling the south line of the Massachusetts colony. It is, however, worthy of particular description, in an account of Boston.t
* Miscellanies in library of Historical Society.
t See Shaw, p. 60, 70, 73, 81, 101, 116. Winthrop, May, 1632. Hale's Survey, p. 20.
4
113
HISTORY OF BOSTON.
The source of the principal branch of this river, is a pond, bordering on Hopkinton. It passes through Holliston and Bellingham, and branches of it divide Medway from Medfield, Wrentham and Franklin, Dover from Sherburne, and passing in a north-easterly course through the S. E. corner of Natick, it there turns to the eastward, and separating Needham and Dover, pursues its way into Dedham; where at about nine miles from Boston, a stream called Mother Brook runs out of this river into the Neponset, and forms a sort of canal between the two. From this place the course of the Charles is north- erly between Needham and Newton to the bounds of Weston, whence bending eastward it separates Weston and Waltham from Newton. From the south-east corner of Waltham, it has Watertown and Cambridge on the north, Newton, Watertown (at the village), Brighton and Brookline on the south, till it reaches the harbour of Boston. The junction of the Charles and Neponset by the medium of Mother Brook, forms a beauti- ful island of the towns that lie within them, to wit, Brookline, Brighton, Newton, part of Dedham, Dorchester, Roxbury and Boston. These rivers are interrupted by several elegant falls, and afford a number of seats for mills and manufactories.
Besides the hills and water spots mentioned there was one of each, of which nothing now remains to be seen ; Fox hill which is delincated on our old plan at the bottom of the com- mon, and the town's watering place, which was afterwards called ' the pond,' on the north side of Bedford-street, near the opening into Chauncy-place. It is most likely that ' Mr. Coddington's swamp' was situated in that vicinity, farther down the street. There was also a considerable extent of marsh on the north side of Cambridge street below Blossom street. The plans of the town so late as 1796 exhibit no land west of a line from the foot of Centre, (No. 69 in Bf,) to Brighton street, in B d.
An enumeration of the islands in the harbour will now com- plete our design of bringing into one view the original appear- ance of Boston. The following table was made in 1793 by that distinguished antiquary Mr. Thomas Pemberton, with great care. 'The distances are from actual survey according to Des Barre's excellent chart. Although not all the islands in the table belong to Boston, the propriety of inserting it en- tire will be manifest. The bay or harbour extends from Nantasket to Boston, and spreads from Chelsea to Hingham, containing about 75 square miles. It is bespangled with up- wards of 100 islands or rocks, and receives the waters from Mystick, Charles, Neponset and Manatticut Rivers, with sev- eral other smaller streams.'
15
114
HISTORY OF BOSTON.
Islands and Rocks.
Distance from Long Wharf, Boston.
Situation.
In what place.
Apple Island
2 3-4 miles.
Between Snake andGreen islands
Boston.
Apthorp's, a part of Calf Island
9
1 1-12 "
Between Noddle's and Governour's island -
Boston.
Bird Island. Soil washed away, but dry at low water
7 3-4
Between Lovell's and
Hull.
Middle Brewster. Rocks, with a small portion of soil
8 1-8
Between the Great and Outer Brewster
Hull.
Outer Brewster
8 1-4
East from the Middle Brewster
Hull.
Bumkin Island
9 1-4
Between Nantasket and Little Hog island - Between Sailor's island and Hingham
Hingham.
Button Island
11 1-4 "
Calf Island. A rock,cover- ed in some parts with soil.
7 3-4
"
Between the GreatBrews- ter and Green island - Between Thomson's island and Boston
Boston.
Castle Island, (Fort Inde- pendence) -
10 3-4
"
Between Bumkin island and Ilingham
Hingham.
Chandler's Island, called Langley's, in Des Barre's Chart
4 1-4
"
Between Shirley point and Lovell's island -
Boston.
Deer Island. Wasting to- wards the sea, and gain- ing on the inside, and at the East point
8 3-4
"
East from Light-House Between Lovell's and
George's Island
6 1-2
Between Lovell's and Pettick's islands - -
Hull.
Governour's Island, con-
1 7-8
"
Between Deer and Bird islands
Boston
taining about 70 acres -
8 7-8
Between Bumkin island and Weymouthı
Graves. Bare rocks -
9 1-4
E. by N. from Green island
Green Island. Rock, cov- ered with soil in most parts
7 7-8
"
Between Calf island and the Graves rocks
Hull.
Half Moon Island
6 1-8
"
Between Nut island and
A small Island
4 8-4
"
Squantum - Near Half Moon island Between Pettick's and
Dorchester.
Ilangman's Island
5 7-8
"
Moon islands -
Hull.
2 1-3
"
Egg Rock. A bare rock. Gallop's Island
6
"
Rainsford's islands -
Grape Island
Great Brewster. Contains about 25 acres. A high cliff, towards the sea ; it is lessening every year.
Light-House island
115
HISTORY OF BOSTON.
Islands and Rocks.
Distance from Long Wharf, Boston.
Situation.
In what place.
Harding's Rocks. Visible at low water
10 3-4 miles.
Hog island
2 1-2
"
S. E. 1-2 S. from the Light-House Between Noddle's island and Chelsea
Boston.
Little Hog island
3 7-8
Between Nantasket and Bumkin island
S. 69 deg. E.
Hull.
Light-IIouse island. Rock, with 3-4ths of an acre of soil. A bar, dry at low water, connects it with the Great Brewster
Long island
4 3-4
"
Lovell's island
6 1-4
"
Between Nick's Mate and Spectacle island - - Between Long island and the Great Brewster - Between Thomson's and Hangman's islands - Between Long island and Gallop's isiand
Between Boston and Hog island
Nut island. Joins the main at half tide
7 1-4
Between Pettich's island and Germantown - Between George's island and Braintree Great Head
Hull.
Rackoon island
8 1-4
"
Ragged island
10 3-4
Rainsford island
5 7-8
Rainsford rocks
6
"
S. S. W. from Rainsford island
Sailor's island.
Called
11
"
Between Bunihin island and flingham
Barre's chart
Sheep island -
8 3-8
"
Slate island
9 3-8
">
Snake island
3 1-4
"
Boston.
Spectacle island
8 5-8
"
Between Castle and Long islands
Boston.
Sunken island
6 1-12
"
Between Long island and Pettick's island
Thomson's island
3 1-2
"
Between Moon island and Dorchester Near Malden bridge
Charlestown.
A small island Marsh in Mystick river
2 1-4
"
Shirley point
4 1-2
Alderton point
9 1-2
Chelsea. Ilull.
Dorchester.
Moon island
4 3-4
Nick's Mate. Nearly waslı- ed away by the sea
5 3-4 "
Boston.
Boston.
Noddle's, or Williams's island
3-4
Pettick's island
6 7-8
Between Sheep island and Germantown Near Chandler's island - Between Gallop's and Hangman's islands
Quincy.
Hingham. Hull.
Hingham.
Saralı's island in Des
Between Bumkin and Pet- tick's islands Between Bumkin island and Weymouth river Between Apple island and Shirley point
Dorchester.
Hull.
8 1-2
Between Point Alderton and the Middle Brews- ter
Boston.
Boston.
116
HISTORY OF BOSTON.
=
CHAPTER XX.
-- It would be no unprofitable thing for you to pass over the several streets and call to mind who lived here so many years ago. Increase Mather.
SHAW introduces the above quotation from a lecture preach- ed in 1698, entitled the Bostonian Ebenezer, and adds ‘who does not regret that the learned preacher has not given us the result of these profitable inquiries ? Retrospection lingers with melancholy delight on the spot to which talents and learning and piety once gave importance.' Presuming that our readers partake in some degree of this feeling, we have been the more minute in our researches regarding the early period of our history. We have incidentally noticed the places where Cotton and Winthrop and Vane resided. The book of possessions to which we have referred, enables us to point out those of other eminent characters, about the period of 1645.
Gov. Winthrop's neighbour on the opposite corner of the springate was Elder Thomas Oliver, who from several notices in the town records and in the Governour's journal, appears to have been an experienced and skilful surgeon. He came to Boston quite early, and was a right godly man, and his wife also a very godly woman that could bear the severest of afflictions with much patience and honour .* Elder Thomas Leverett, who prior to his removal hither had been an ancient and sincere professor in Mr. Cotton's congregation in England, had his house and garden on the east side of the old meeting- house, with the street on the north, and the marsh of Mr. Winthrop on the south. That part of Congress street north of Water street was long called Leverett's lane or street, in remembrance of him. He was father to John Leverett, who became a very distinguished man in our annals. This last resided at the south-east corner of Court street.
His next neighbour on the south was Richard Parker or Brackett, whose name we find on the colony records as prison keeper so early as 1638. He had ' the market stead' on the east, the prison yard west, and the meeting house on the south. The other corner of Cornhill square, which used to be called Church square, was owned by Valentine Hill, a
* Magnalia, ii. 306. Winthrop. Jan. 9, 1633. Sept. 17, 1644. Town Records, Sept. 1644. Jan. 1647.
-
!
117
HISTORY OF BOSTON.
man of eminence in town affairs. From these data we ascer- tain the fact, that the county prison was originally located about the spot where the jail lately stood, and that the spot now oc- cupied by the Old State-house was the ancient market-place.
Mr. Coggan, who set up the first shop in Boston, lived on the north side of the market, at the corner of State street. He probably purchased of Mr. Wilson the minister, who own- ed north and east of him. On this lot Mr. Wilson had a house, two gardens, a barn and a yard : out of this he sold a lot of 45 feet in front, between him and Mr. Coggan, to John Da- vies, which makes it quite likely that his dwelling house was very near the new Branch bank, and that Wilson's lane takes its name from him. We may be permitted to add the hope that the name will always be retained. It can do posterity no harm to be reminded that there were good men, though it may be irksome to imitate them.
Capt. Keayne lived on the other corner of State street, op- posite the market-stead : Major (so they called Major Gene- ral) Edward Gibbons' dwelling house, with other housing and a garden, were situated on the bend opposite the lower end of Market street, so as to give him the street on the west and the north. William Pierce owned an estate, extending from State street north to the cove, in the direction of Flagg alley, which a long time bore his name. Samuel Cole, who in the name of Richard, figures so demurely by the side of his wife in the Peep at the Pilgrims, lived on the west side of Merchants' row, mid-way from State street to Faneuil Hall, and there kept his tavern ; which it will be remembered was the first in the town, . and which Lord Leigh declared was so well regulated, that he could be as private there as he could have been at the Gover- nour's own house .*
Capt. William Tyng, sometime treasurer for the country, had a house, one close, a garden, one great yard and one little yard before the hall windows, bounded with Mr. Richard Bel .. lingham and the street that goes to the dock southwards. This sets him on the tongue of land between Brattle and Washing- ton streets, now known as Market Row, and gives Mr. B. an estate about the end of Market street. The latter probably resided there, but he had also a garden plot next but one to Mr. Cotton's on Common (late Tremont) street.
Mr. Henry Dunster, first president of Harvard college, owned the north east corner of Court street. Daniel Maud, one of the earliest schoolmasters, lived next south of Mr. Cot- ton, now the noble mansion of Lt. Gov. Phillips. The corner of Beacon street opposite the chapel was Mr. Coggan's estate, and had then the burying place adjoining it on the east. On
* Winthrop, June, 1637.
٠
118
HISTORY OF BOSTON.
the other side of this burial ground, fronting south on School street, was the house and garden of Thomas Scottow, joiner, who, in Feb. 1644, was appointed to superintend the graves, gates and fences. He and Mr. Richard Hutchinson divided the north side of School street. Zaccheus Bosworth lived at the corner on the west end, and those southward of him had the cominon on their west. The south-east corner of School street was the estate of Mr. Atherton Hough, ( sometimes spelt Hoffe :) he was often a representative of the town in the gene- ral courts. His neighbour on School street was Arthur Perry, worthy of note as town drummer on all important occasions. His services entitled him to a salary of £5 in 1638, and pro- vision was made in 1643, for the instruction of such as were candidates to become his successors. A barber by the name of Francis Lisle* kept opposite to where the Old South stands, and three doors above him was William Aspinwall, who was a notary publick and recorder, after his return from banish- ment. His estate extended from the main or high street, to the common, and we find the name of Bomsted near him.
At the south-east corner of Winter street was the widow Jane Parker, and on the opposite corner, Robert Blott. Boylston market place belonged to an Oliver, and the opposite corner to Robert Wing. Deacon Colburn westward of whom there were six lots, Belcher, Talmage, Snow, Walker, Brisco, Flacke, lived on the high street at the northerly corner of Elliot street, and deacon Jacob Elliot, from whom the street derived its name, was his neighbour on the south corner. We find no private property south of this : and the next allotment on the east side of the high street was Garret Bourne's, at the head of Essex street, but so far down as to give him the cove on the south. His next neighbour was Edward Rainsford, whose name is still retained for the lane that was afterwards opened in the vicinity of his estate. Griffith Bowen was on the north corner of Essex street, and Mr Thomas Fowle's possession was one house and garden five estates north of him. Robert Wood ward lived at the south and Thomas Wheeler at the north corner of Bedford street, the latter having the lane S. the high street W. the watering place E. and Wm. Blaintaine N. who also had the watering place east. The widow Eliza- beth Purton lived at the south-west corner of Summer street, and Nath. Woodward, sen. who had a numerous family, op- posite to her. Robert Reinolds owned the corner of Milk street opposite the Old South, and two estates below him was Nath. Bishop, from whom came the name of Bishop's alley, once appropriated to Hawley street.
* It is not certain whether he was the barber chirurgeon, who lost his life in a snow storm, while on his way to Roxbury to draw a tooth. W. W. P. b. 2. ch. 15.
119
HISTORY OF BOSTON.
Jeremy Houchin, who was a tanner by trade, was located at the corner of Hanover and Court streets (Concert hall) and had his tan-pits and tan-yards there. Down that side of Court street were the families of Makepeace, Thwing, Joshua Scottow, (of whom we have a memoir in the fourth volume of the Hist. Coll. 2d. Series.) Beck, Brown and Biggs. Thomas Marshall, who was a shoemaker besides being ferryman, owned a lot which falls near the block between Union street and Marshall lane. He had the street S. W. and N. W. and the marsh south-east : the extent of his lot was about half an acre. At the north end the whole sea board was lotted out, beginning at the mill creek and following the shore to the north end of Snow-hill-street : we shall have occasion to name the families hereafter. Sudbury street was occupied on both sides, and lots extending from the cove on the north to the lane (Green st.) on the south were improved with dwelling houses and gardens as far as 'Mill alley.' The rest of the north and west parts of the town was owned in large lots, . said to be in the mill field and new field. Among others we notice Thomas Buttolph who had about five acres in each of those fields, an acre and a half between Essex and Bedford streets, besides his house and garden midway between Market and Court streets. The name of Buttolph street may proba- bly be traced to him. Capt. Christopher Stanley was also a large owner of estates in various parts, and was Buttolph's neighbour on the north. Ensign Thomas Savage at one time owned in the same neighbourhood, and a little above them Capt. Thomas Hawkins, which last had also an estate in the vicinity of the street that bears his name. Near Fort hill we find among others the names of Richard Gridley and Edward Belcher. Part of Purchase street formerly was called by the name of the latter, and we have now in that quarter a Gridley lane.
These researches have informed us of the number and ex- tent of most of the high ways, which existed at the period of twenty years after the settlement of the town. The first or- ders on record upon this subject were passed in October, 1636: we have given some extracts on page 83, and shall be the more copious here, to save the labour of future inquirers.
There was a high way, sometimes called the high street, laid out from the head of the dock to Mr. Colburn's field, a little south of Elliot street, and beyond that was the ‘foot way unto Samuel Wilbour's field next Roxbury.' On the east side of this high way Essex street was laid out, but had no particular name : so was it with Bedford street, which was afterwards called Pond-street, with reference to the watering place to which it led. Summer street and High street had the name of Mill street or lane, because they led to the widow
120
HISTORY OF BOSTON.
Tuttle's mill. Milk-street was called the Fort street, it being the thorough fare from the high street to the works at Fort hill. State street is called the Water street in Mr. Wilson's deed. Court street as far as Market street had the name of Centry hill street. From the chapel burial ground north and from Market street west to the bottom of Sudbury street, the way was known as Sudbury street, doubtless in reference to the part of England from which many of the Boston people emigrated. In March 1640 it was ordered that the street from Mr. Hough's to the Centry hill should be kept open for- ever : this was School street and part of Beacon street. Winter, Boylston and Elliot streets were at that time lanes. The first has at some period borne the name of Blott's lane, from Robert Blott, the first proprietor of one of the eastern corners. Hanover street north from the mill-creek, and also Marshall's lane, we think are described in the following pro- vision : 1636, October. 'The streete waye from the gates next James Everill's, toward the Mylne, is to runne straight along in an even line to John Pemberton's house, and to rainge betweene Thomas Marshall's house and Serjeant Sav- age's, and to bee within the street betweene payle and payle on each side, two poles broad .*
'A layne to goe from cove to cove, between . Thomas Paynter and Thomas Marshall's, one pole and a half between payle and payle.'
We can trace nothing of Hanover street farther north : in a decd from Thomas Clarke of Dorchester, merchant, to Christopher Stanley we find something like the original of Fleet and Tileston st. though it surprises us to see one of them ' thirty six foote broad unto the lowermost highway and from thence to low water marke thirty foote,' whereas the other ' going towards the mill hill,' was only twelve foote. This lowermost highway was Ann Street 'upon the sea bank,' and before Walter Merry's at the North battery it was 16 ft. broad. It followed the shore, as we have supposed, to the mill creek inlet, and was completed in the following order.
' The land at the head of the cove, round about by John Glover's, Geo. Burden's, Hugh Gunnison's, Capt. W. Tyng's, Wm. Franklin's, Robert Nash's and eight foot to eastward of it, is high way-as also from the eastward side of the 8 feet, and round about by the corner of Edw. Bendall's brick house, . and so by S. Cole's house, as also to E. Tyng's wharf
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