USA > Massachusetts > Essex County > Municipal history of Essex County in Massachusetts, Volume I > Part 37
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What can be more reasonable than the supposition that Mr. Hum- phrey had caused this house to be built for the reception of himself and wife even before they arrived here? The land had been granted to him in 1633, he was apparently engaged in trade with the Colonies in' ships that he owned at least in part, he had been made an assistant to the governor before he arrived here, and had the wealth and official con- nection to accomplish all this. Admitting the evidence of the Winthrop map, which has been accepted as authentic, we have next to consider the date at which the notes and sketches were made. Newbury was made a town May 6, 1635, and Dedham September 8, 1636. Neither of these towns are shown on this map. Agawam was settled in 1633, and the name changed to Ipswich, August 5, 1634. On this map it appears as a cluster of three houses (one a half house), some Indian wigwams nearby, and under the name of Agawam. Newtown was named Cambridge, September 8, 1634. It appears as Newtown on this map. Weymouth, so named September 1, 1635, appears under the old name Wessagusans. Lynn, which received its present name November 20, 1637, appears as Saugus, which was the original name. The fish weir on the Saugus river which was authorized in 1633 is indicated on the map. Mr. Crad- dock's farmhouse at Medford is sketched as a "half house." The loca-
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TOWN OF SWAMPSCOTT
tion of Ten Hills farm, Governor Winthrop's farm, is shown, as is the windmill and the fort at Boston. A very careful study of the map and a careful consideration of the points above mentioned, as well as others, lead us to conclude that the map was marked and the margin notes writ- ten by Governor Winthrop in the summer of 1634, and that the map was then sent to England. While there are letters on record from Robert Ryce of England, asking Governor Winthrop to send him a map, there is nothing to connect those letters with this map, so far as we can ascertain. Even if this map was sent in response to those letters, it would prove that the John Humphrey house was standing in 1637; we are therefore quite satisfied that it was built four years earlier, or in 1634, which was in the fifth year of the settlement of Lynn.
We extract liberally from an article by Henry S. Baldwin, which presents a valuable and concise picture of Swampscott past and present:
With a shore line of three and one-half miles and well protected beaches, it has always been a favorite spot for fishermen, and the town has been noted for this industry from the time of the Pilgrims down to the present. Undoubtedly, the earliest settlers of Massachusetts Bay colony came to what is now Fisherman's Beach in their small vessels to obtain much-needed supplies of food. Records of the town show that all through the colonial days, and even after the Revolutionary War, this was the principal fishing port of New England. At one time there were more than 30 schooners, locally known as "jiggers," hailing from Swampscott. Residents of the town still living remember when ox carts were driven from all parts of New England and even from Canada to Swampscott, for the purpose of obtaining supplies of fish. These carts were loaded with geese, eggs, butter, cheese and produce, by the inland farmers, who disposed of their articles to the fishermen when Swampscott was reached. Here a return load of fish would be obtained. Jeremiah L. Horton, now eighty-seven years of age, states that he has seen piles of frozen cod resembling cord wood in the yard on Humphrey street where is now located the Swampscott Club. As the demand for fish became greater, warranting the use of large vessels, the Swampscott fishing fleet gradually disappeared, and today the industry is conducted on a small scale by the use of motor boats and dories.
The Swampscott dory is noted throughout the world as a type of small boat which especially meets the requirements of fishermen. It is so constructed that it is very seaworthy, and yet can be readily handled and drawn up on the beach. On account of its shape, it can be stowed in nests on larger vessels, and for this reason has played an important part in the fishing industry of New England. Mr. Horton, who has fished in Massachusetts bay since he was 13 years of age, states that the first dories were built by a man named Andrews. The distinction of designing this type of craft belongs to Mr. Theophilus Brackett of this town.
It may not be generally known that the Beach road, which follows King's Beach from the Lynn line, through Humphrey street and Puritan road, is the oldest highway in the country. Most New England coast towns have their stories of shipwrecks and tragedies of the sea. In January, 1857, a terrible storm drove the bark Tedesco on the rocks near the Ocean House. The ship was destroy- ed and her entire crew of 12 men were drowned, the bodies of six being recovered and buried together in the Swampscott cemetery. Up to the middle of the last century the population of Swampscott was made up largely of fishermen and farmers, but with the advent of better means of transportation, it gradually took on the character of a residential town and a delightful summer resort. Situated
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on Nahant bay, which tourists have likened to the Bay of Naples, the scenery is most attractive. As one leaves the shore, beautiful fields and woods appear before the eye.
Swampscott is fortunate in that three main roads of the North Shore pass through the town. The outer road, or boulevard, which follows the shore closely and extends through Humphrey and Orient streets and Atlantic avenue to Marble- head or Salem, affords the most charming and varied scenery; while Paradise or State road, located more centrally in the town, is a direct route to points on the coast and the northern part of New England. The westerly highway lies in Essex street, which is the old county road and is still much used, particularly for com- mercial traffic. There are more than 30 miles of modern roads in the town, which, combined with the many beaches, attract hundreds of visitors in the summer season.
One of the earliest hotels was the Ocean House, which formerly stood on Galloupe's Point. This was demolished, and later the New Ocean House, which now extends the entire length of Whale's Beach, was erected. This popular hotel has expanded until it is now one of the largest and best equipped summer hotels on the New England coast. It has become a favorite resort for people from all parts of the United States and foreign countries. Many professional societies hold their annual meetings here. Hotel Preston, near the Marblehead boundary, is also an establishment enjoying a wide reputation for superior service. There are a number of well-appointed retail shops, located for the most part on Humphrey street. The population of the town in 1852 was about 1000, while the last census, taken in 1920, shows a total of 8101. The town is supplied with excellent water of the metropolitan system, and is considered a very healthy locality.
Swampscott has a fully motorized fire department, efficient police protection, postal delivery; and, in fact, most of the advantages usually found only in large cities. Educational facilities are exceptional, there being five modern school build- ings, with 52 teachers. At the recent annual town meeting, the sum of $131,000 was appropriated for educational purposes for the current year (1921). There are six churches, representing various denominations, and many fraternal and social organizations. The Tedesco Club, Neighborhood Club, Masonic Club, Swampscott Club, Catholic Club and the Woman's Club afford an opportunity for citizens to meet socially. Recently a co-operative bank has been opened in the town.
Among the many prominent residents may be mentioned the name of Prof. Elihu Thomson, a founder of the General Electric Company, president of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology for the second time, and a man of world- wide scientific reputation. His residence is located on Monument avenue, and the residence of Andrew W. Preston, president of the United Fruit Company, whose wonderful foresight has brought this company to be recognized as the greatest industrial organization in the West Indies and Central America. His beautiful home, The Arches, on Atlantic avenue, is one of the finest on the North Shore.
[Abednego Ramsdell, the picturesque figure of Lynn in the Concord fight, re- sided in Swampscott near the junction of Cherry and Essex streets. Hearing of the Paul Revere alarm, while shooting birds at the shore, he returned home, seized his equipment and a little food and (according to tradition) ran to Concord and arrived in season to take part in the fight, and there paid the supreme sacrifice upon the altar of liberty. He was buried in the Eastern burial ground.]
From the days of the Revolution down to the World War, Swampscott has al- ways furnished her full quota of soldiers and sailors. Even though the town was small during the period of the Civil War, Swampscott sent out more than 200 men to preserve the Union. In the World War 512 men and women answered the call to the colors, many serving at home and abroad with distinction.
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TOWN OF SWAMPSCOTT
A memorial shaft has been erected in Monument square for those who gave their lives in the Civil War, and a boulder and bronze tablet were dedicated on November 11, 1920, to the heroic dead of the World War.
We now draw upon certain town statistics, for the purpose of in- dicating the steady development in the growth of the town's material concerns :
Building Inspector John T. Lee reported to the board of selectmen that 154 building permits were issued during the year 1921, with esti- mated cost of construction of $474,275. Of this amount, $361,000 repre- sented the cost of 46 dwellings. The permits for erection of garages called for an expenditure of $35,000.
Assessors' property report. Valuation of the town of Swampscott, April 1, 1921. Table of aggregate of polls, property and taxes assessed April 1, 1921:
Number of residents assessed on property
1,976
Number of firms, corporations, etc., assessed on property.
52
Number of non-residents assessed on property
375
Number of non-resident firms, corporations, etc., assessed on property
30
Number of persons assessed on property
2,433
Number of persons assessed on poll tax only
1,370
Total number of persons assessed
3,803
Number of male polls assessed
2,366
Value of assessed personal estate
$1,391,298
Value of assessed buildings, excluding land
8,360,183
Value of assessed land, excluding buildings
5,866,327
Number of dwelling houses assessed
1,846
Note: These items appear in the tabulation below.
The subjoined tabulation, interesting for the comparisons it affords, gives valuation of real and personal property by five-year periods from 1880 onwards, along with the tax rates. The figures for 1921 are also appended :
Year.
Real Estate.
Personal Property.
Total Valuation.
Tax Rate Per $1,000
1880
$1,991,880
$1,133,247
$3,125,127
$7.00
1885
2,365,280
1,130,863
3,496,143
9.00
1890
3,001,550
1,857,777
4,859,327
10.00
1895
3,756,900
1,444,947
5,201,847
12.00
1900
4,446,900
1,138,275
5,585,175
11.00
1905
6,030,185
2,117,442
8,147,627
14.50
1910
8,489,200
2,698,340
11,187,540
$15.00
1915
10,810,305
5,028,193
15,838,498
17.80
1920
14,007,916
1,316,938
15,324,854
23.00
1921
14,226,510
1,391,298
15,617,808
24.00
Following is the list of elected town officers for the year 1921 :
Selectmen-Henry S. Baldwin, chairman; William E. Carter, John B. Earp.
Moderator-Daniel F. Knowlton. Town Clerk-George T. Till. Town Treas- urer-James W. Libby. Collector of Taxes-Philip E. Bessom.
Assessors-Edward A. Maxfield, chairman, term expires 1923; Oscar G. Poor, term expires 1922; Clarence B. Humphrey, secretary; term expires 1924.
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ESSEX COUNTY
Water and Sewerage Commissioners-George D. R. Durkee, chairman, term expires 1922; Harold G. Enholm, term expires 1923; Charles E. Hodgdon, term expires 1924.
Park Commissioners-James T. Lyons, chairman, term expires 1922; Stuart P. Ellis, secretary, term expires 1923; Archibald Miller, term expires 1924.
School Committee-Rev. Edward Tillotson, chairman, term expires 1923; Rev. John Vannevar, term expires 1922; Mabel E. Hardy, term expires 1924.
Trustees of Public Library -* Frank F. Stanley; fElihu Thomson, term expires 1922; Louise C. Stanley, term expires 1923; F. Keeler Rice, term expires 1924.
Overseers of the Poor-Joseph F. Crowell, chairman, term expires 1922; Harry E. Cahoon, term expires 1923; Edmund Russell, secretary, term expires 1924.
Board of Health-Dr. Loring Grimes, chairman, term expires 1923; John B. Cahoon, term expires 1924; Harold H. Bartol, term expires 1922.
Surveyor of Highways-Michael J. Ryan, term expires 1924.
Tree Warden-Everett P. Mudge.
Constables-Frank H. Bradford, Clarence W. Horton, Charles Walter Burrill.
Commissioners of Trust Funds-Henry B. Sprague, term expires 1922; George H. Lucey, term expires 1922; Granville Ingalls, term expires 1922.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
TOWN OF NAHANT
Nahant is a peninsula extending out into Massachusetts Bay, to the south of Lynn. Originally, this tract of land (almost an island), to- gether with Lynn, included a township adjoining the town of Salem, the first landing place of the Puritans. In this large territory the Puritans made their first homes, at long distances from one another, "in con- venient spots, each family occupying large tracts of land. A few families gathered at Tower Hill, Breed's End, Sagamore Hill and Swampscott, as well as at Nahant."
Although Nahant is one of the smallest in population and area of any town within the limits of Essex county, it was without question one of the very earliest places to be settled by the white race. Its history reaches away back more than five hundred years before the landing of the Pilgrim Fathers at Plymouth Rock; at least, it has been blended by both history and tradition that far back. Before taking up the actual recorded history of this most interesting locality, it may be well to men- tion some of the early traditions, including the stories of the Norsemen voyagers, which say that "Thorwold, in 1004, A.D., spent the winter in Narragansett Bay, and in the spring set sail to find his way back to the coast of Greenland. Working his way around Cape Cod, which he called Kilararnes, he sailed northward to the main land, and came to anchor near a bold promontory, which projected into the sea, covered with a forest to the water's edge. He was so delighted with the place that he
* Deceased. ยก Appointed.
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TOWN OF NAHANT
exclaimed "Here it is beautiful, and here I should like to fix my dwell- ing." Continuing, the story goes on in this wise:
While at anchor near the promontory, and while preparing to go ashore, the Norsemen discovered three small canoes, each containing three natives, whom they pursued and killed, all but one, who escaped to his tribe. He, with a just indigna- tion, soon returned with others of his tribe to destroy, if possible, the Norsemen, who had so cruelly betrayed their confidence. But the arrows and the frail birch canoe of the natives were as nothing compared to the battle-screens of the ships of the Norsemen, so that the natives soon retired, but not until they had killed or at least mortally wounded Thorwold, who only had time to say, "This is my death- blow; I desire you to depart as soon as possible, but first take my body to the shore and bury it upon the promontory before you where I had intended to make my abode. I shall now dwell there forever. Place a cross at my head and also one at my feet, and call the place Krossanes."
Abbot in his "History of Maine" gives place to this story, saying that it occurred at some point near Boston Harbor; doubtless "it was the first conflict between the Europeans and the Indians of North America in which the White race was outrageously in the wrong." After Thorwold's death, his crew returned to Narragansett Bay, where they spent the winter, and in the spring set sail for Greenland with a cargo of wood and furs.
While this story is interesting, the objection has been raised that it lacks any authenticity as to the persons, their deeds and the exact location in New England where such a scene is supposed to have been staged. That it should have been Nahant is a theory supported by sundry writers. Historian Abbot admits it to have been in Boston Har- bor, and Lewis in his "History of Essex County" favors Nahant.
To connect up closer with established facts in recorded history, it should be added that John Smith, in his voyages along the New England coast, noticed Nahant, which he called the Mattahunt Isles, and here he made a landing. He also referred to the cliffs on the northeast coast as the iron mines, as they much resemble iron-ore. Other records call the same place Nahant, so named after an Indian chief Nahanton.
In 1622 Robert Gorges obtained a grant of lands (according to the public records) in Massachusetts Bay, in which grant Nahant was in- cluded. Before Blackstone and Johnson made their home in Boston, settlers had been cultivating the soil of Nahant, and chopping down its forests, with which to erect their humble cabins and increase their farms. It is believed that this settlement was not far from 1630, a belief based upon dates and facts included in the deposition of one William Dixey, who under oath, in 1657 wrote as follows:
Sworne saith, that about twenty-eight years ago, Mr. Isaak Johnson, being my master, Writt to the Hon'rd Govern'r as now is Mr. Endicott for a place to sitt downe in upon which Mr. Endicott gave me and the rest leave to go where we wee would, upon which I went to Saugust, now Linne, and there we mett with Sagamore James and some other Indians, whoe did give me and the rest to dwell there or thereabouts.
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whereup I and the rest of my masters company did cutt grass for our cattell and kept them upon Nahant for some space of time, for the Indian, James Sagamore and the rest, did give me and the rest, in behalf of my master, Johnson, wt land wee would, whereupon wee sett down in Saugust and had quiet possession of it by the above said Indians and kept our cattell in Nahant the summer following.
Desposition given May 1, 1657.
Isaac Johnson left Lynn for Boston in 1630, becoming one of the first to settle there. The first settlement made in Nahant was with the full consent of the Indians, both races living in peace together up to that time. Thus it is established that the original settlers first obtained a title to their land from Governor Endicott to go where they would, and afterwards from the Indian Sagamore James.
Notwithstanding there was far more land than could be used by the first settlers, disputes yet arose over boundary lines of the several tracts-human nature then being identically the same as today. Finally an allotment was made by vote in the town meeting. The minority, how- ever, were displeased, and picked out the choicest tracts and purchased them from the Indians, as they believed the latter were the only true owners. Among these purchases was one by Thomas Dexter, who bought Sagamore Hill and Nahant, claiming them as his own to till and pasture upon within enclosures which he built. The Lynn people would not agree, and trouble arose, resulting in a law-suit. "Nahant was especially valuable as a pasture for cattle, as a fence had been put across the north- west end of Long Beach, protecting all the peninsula, keeping the cattle safely enclosed, besides serving as a barrier to keep out the wolves and bears." These great advantages were not overlooked by the settlers at Nahant, who believed them worth fighting for.
Thus it will be seen that there sprung up several classes of claimants for this most valuable plot of ground, almost surrounded by the waters of the Atlantic Ocean. Thomas Dexter claimed it by right of purchase from the Indians. There seems good evidence to prove that he pur- chased Nahant, fenced it in, and that a suit of clothes was a part of the consideration paid. Another claimant was the town of Lynn, whose settlers claimed it by their right of being "first settlers," and who had given it to others, to be used in common.
Still a third class laid claim thereto, on account of having taken their lands there, and refused to be held for rental by two parties-the town of Lynn and the Dexter family interests. On account of these differences, many moved to other parts, rather than longer be annoyed; still others, of a more stubborn make-up, refused either to leave or to pay rent. One writer says: "The contest for Nahant seems to have been both severe and stubborn, so much so that after the town of Lynn had voted to allot the land at Nahant equally to the several proprietors, it was voted at a subsequent town meeting, 'that the soil should be sown down to English grass, and that no house should be left standing.' Such an act it is hardly possible to find elsewhere; but in spite of it, the ad-
301
TOWN OF NAHANT
ministrators of Thomas Dexter appealed to the decision of the court. In 1676, the case was decided against them in favor of the town of Lynn."
The next heard of Nahant in 1687 was when the notorious Edward Randolph, English commissioner of Charles II, petitioned "His Excel- lency, Sir Edward Andros, Knight, Governor, etc.," for a grant of Nahant. In 1706, Lynn voted to divide its lands among the town's people, and received from the court legal right to hold and divide all common lands. Before this act of the town, a deed of Nahant had been procured by Lynn from the Indians, bearing date of September 4, 1686, thus making the title of Nahant satisfactory after a seventy-year contest at law.
A town committee met and divided Nahant into two hundred and eight lots, the largest containing four acres and six rods; the smallest was thirty-eight rods. This division was easily made by making eleven strips, or ranges running across the peninsula from northeast to south- west, each strip being forty rods wide.
August 14, 1819, "The Patriot" published this description of Nahant, and the same is worthy of reproduction :
Nahant possesses advantages as a watering-place superior to any in New Eng- land. It is a peninsula stretching two miles into the sea. You approach it by land, over a most excellent turnpike road, surpassed by none in the United States; and across a beach of unsurpassing smoothness, on whose hard level the wheel leaves no mark, and which may be justly considered as one of the curiosities of the country.
From its bleak bluffs the ocean spreads itself before you in all its grandeur, now bearing on its broad and beautiful bosom the white sails of commerce, and now roaring in rage and breaking its wild wave on the shore. You have here the sublim- ity of a sea voyage, with the security of a residence on the land. The rocky shore of the peninsula presents another appearance of sublimity and grandeur; the rude magnificence and gigantic outline of one part is relieved by the beauty and regular- ity of others; and in the cells and caverns which diversify the scenery, an admirer of nature may find abundant amusement in exploring the innumerable traces of her workmanship.
On the high grounds of Nahant the air is most pure, refreshing and salubrious. The heat of the summer's sun is moderated by luxuriant sea-breezes which never fail, from some quarter, to alleviate its intensity.
Its waters afford abundant sport for fishermen; small fish are caught in sur- prising quantities from the rocks; and a short distance in the bay cod, haddock, mackerel and halibut reward the labor which pursues them."
The first hotel was opened here in June, 1823, known as the Nahant Hotel. This house was sold and rebuilt in 1853-54. The new hotel had a dining room service for six hundred persons at one time. Telegraph wires connected with Boston, and a special steamer plied the waters be- tween Nahant and Boston. In September, 1861, this hotel, costing over $100,000, was burned to the ground.
The first steamboat to enter Boston Harbor was the "Massachu- setts," of which the "Columbian Sentinel," July 19, 1817, had this to
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say : "The new and beautiful steamboat 'Massachusetts' has by per- severance so far overcome the prejudices of the public, and on Thursday afternoon, in her excursions around the harbor, she was filled to over- flowing with ladies and gentlemen. This boat is one hundred feet long on the deck, and measures one hundred and twenty tons." Doubtless this boat made frequent excursions to Nahant in 1817. In 1820 she made her regular runs there from Boston; the steamboat route was really established from Boston to Nahant in the season of 1818, the steamboat "Eagle" being the popular steamer at that date.
The citizens of Nahant tried in 1846 to have the town incorporated, and petitioned the legislature to grant such corporation, but owing to opposition from the people of Lynn, this was denied them. Then Na- hant asked Lynn to appropriate certain funds with which to protect the beach and repair the wagon roads; this, too, was refused. Under leader- ship of Frederick Tudor, the citizens of Nahant then sought by public subscription to make the needed improvements, and in this way nearly all of Willow Road was constructed. The road then from Lynn to Nahant was simply a long beach and at high tide nothing more than a ridge of soft sand, through which it was very hard to travel. At low tide, or even half tide, however, the hard, firm sand made a much easier road. Hence, nearly all journeys across were made at low tide. The time- table of the first stage coaches to Nahant was changed weekly to cor- respond with the tides. On account of this feature it was not long be- fore Boston provided boat service to Nahant.
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