USA > Massachusetts > Suffolk County > Boston > Old landmarks and historic personages of Boston.. > Part 29
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Dr. Holmes has said in his " Autocrat,"_
" Boston State House is the hub of the solar system. You could n't pry that out of a Boston man if you had the tire of all creation straightened for a crowbar."
This expression thus applied only to the State House, but since modified into the "Hub of the Universe," is now gener- ally used in connection with Boston itself, until the Bostonian abroad has become familiar and even content with hearing his native or adopted city styled the " Hub " from Maine to California.
The State House tract was passed by the town to the Com- monwealth in 1795 ; the nominal consideration was five shil- lings. Samuel Adams laid the corner-stone July 4 of the same year, dedicating it forever to liberty and the rights of man. In 1798 it was completed, and occupied by the legisla- ture, Increase Sumner being then governor. The building re- ceived enlargement in 1855, which cost considerably more than the original edifice.
The adornment of our public grounds with statues of dis- tinguished men is becoming a feature of Boston. Washington, Franklin, Webster, Mann, Everett, Hamilton, and the dis- coverer of America have effigies in bronze or marble in their honor. But where are the statues to Hancock, Otis, the Adamses, Quincy, and the rest ?
A copy in plaster of Houdon's Washington, at Richmond, Va., is in the vestibule of the Athenæum, as is also a plaster model of the statue of Bowditch by Ball Hughes. The figure of the Saviour on the apex of the pediment of the Church of the Immaculate Conception is a copy from Thorwaldsen. The Aristides and Columbus in Louisburg Square are specimens of Italian art, and were imported by Mr. Iasigi. The statue of Hamilton in granite in Commonwealth Avenue is by Dr. Rimmer, and is believed to have been the first in the country cut from that material. There are also three typical figures in granite on the front of Horticultural Hall, representing Flora, Ceres, and Pomona. These are by Milmore.
The bronze statue of Webster in the State House grounds is
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by Powers. It was the second executed by the artist, the first being lost at sea while en route from Leghorn. The work hardly fulfilled the expectations of Mr. Webster's admirers, or the hopes founded on the high reputation of the sculptor. It was first placed in the vestibule of the Athenæum, until removed to its present position by consent of the Legislature.
The statue of Horace Mann was cast in Munich, and is the work of Miss Stebbins. The fund was raised by the contri- butions of school-children and teachers throughout the State. The State paid for the pedestal.
In the vestibule are the statues of Governor Andrew and of Washington. The latter was placed in the State House in 1827, and is by Sir F. Chantrey. The idea originated with gentlemen of Boston who had been associated with Washing- ton in public life. They organized under the name of the Washington Monument Association, and first intended to erect an equestrian statue, -a purpose which want of sufficient funds obliged them to abandon. The pose of the figure is majestic and at the same time without stiffness; the military cloak thrown across the shoulders gives an ease and grace to the whole design. Chantrey began as a carver climbing to emi- nence in art from the lowest round of the ladder.
The torn and battle-stained colors of the Massachusetts regiments are here gathered in the keeping of the Common- wealth. In life, Governor Andrew presented most of these flags ; his statue is their appropriate guardian.
In the lower halls are also placed the tablets from the monu- ment formerly on the summit of Beacon Hill. They are four feet four inches long, and three feet three inches wide. The gilt eagle which perched upon the top of the column has found a place over the Speaker's chair, in the Hall of Representatives. A bust of Samuel Adams is affixed to a niche in the wall ; and the alcove in which stands the Chantrey statue is flanked by two brass cannon consecrated to the valor of Isaac Davis and John Buttrick, two heroes of the battle of Lexington.
On the 26th of August, 1824, Lafayette received the citizens of Boston in the lower hall; and on the next day a second 15 *
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reception was given by the distinguished Frenchman. No greater crowds ever thronged to do homage to any visitor in the halls of the Capitol. On this occasion the national stand- ard was displayed for the first time from the cupola.
When the General was again in Boston in 1825, to assist at the laying of the corner-stone of Bunker Hill Monument, the Legislature resolved to invite him to meet it in the Hall of Representatives, and requested ex-Governor Lincoln to address him on the occasion. The General was received by both houses in joint convention on the 16th of June, Governor Lincoln in the Speaker's chair. Among the distinguished guests was Mr. Barbour, United States Secretary of War.
In the Senate Chamber are portraits of the old Colonial governors Endicott, Winthrop, Leverett, Bradstreet, and Bur- net. A fine portrait of Governor Sumner, presented by General W. H. Sumner, hangs above the President's chair. There are also portraits of Francis Higginson, first minister of Salem, and of Robert Rantoul.
On the front of the gallery are some interesting relics of the battle of Bennington, presented by General John Stark. They are a musket, drum, a heavy trooper's sword, and grenadier's cap with the curious conical brass plate, on which, as well as the brass plate of the drum, is embossed the emblematic horse of the Duchy of Westphalia.
Underneath is the letter of acceptance written by order of the General Assembly, and signed by Jeremiah Powell, Presi- dent of the Council.
Besides these are two old firelocks, bequeathed to the State by Rev. Theodore Parker. One of them has the maker's name on the lock-plate, " Grice, 1762," and an inscription on the butt as follows : -
" The First Fire Arm, Captured in the War for Independence."
The other is more antiquated in appearance. It has the donor's name on the lock-plate, and an inscription on the breech which reads, -
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"This Firearm was used by Capt John Parker in the Battle of Lexington April 19th 1775."
In connection with the State House we present an en- graving of the desk, long used in the Old State House by successive speakers of the House of Representatives. On the removal of the Legislature from their time-honored place of meet- ing, this desk was deemed too an- tiquated for further service. It is now one of the interesting me- morials of the colony in the keep- ing of the Historical Society. The chair is a relic of Plymouth Col- ony, having belonged to Governor Edward Winslow, and is also de- posited with the same society.
SPEAKER'S DESK, AND WINSLOW'S CHAIR.
Let us contrast for a moment the spacious halls of legislation and conveniences of the New State House with the confined limits of the Old, and let John Adams describe the famous Council Chamber of the latter as he saw it in 1768.
"The same glorious portraits of King Charles II. and King James II., to which might be added, and should be added, little miserable likenesses of Governor Winthrop, Governor Bradstreet, Governor Endicott, and Governor Belcher, hung up in obscure corners of the room. Lieutenant-Governor Hutchinson, Commander- in-Chief in the absence of the Governor, must be placed at the head of the council table. Lieutenant-Colonel Dalrymple, Commander- in-Chief of his Majesty's military forces, taking rank of all his Majesty's counsellors, must be seated by the side of the Lieutenant- Governor and Commander-in-Chief of the province. Eight-and- twenty counsellors must be painted, all seated at the council-board. Let me see, what costume ? What was the fashion of that day in the month of March ? Large white wigs, English scarlet cloth. cloaks, some of them with gold-laced hats, not on their heads, in- deed, in so august a presence, but on a table before them. Before
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these illustrious personages appeared Samuel Adams, a member of the House of Representatives, and their clerk, now at the head of the great assembly at the Old South Church. Thucydides, Livy, or Sallust would make a speech for him, or perhaps the Italian Botta, if he had known anything of this transaction, one of the most important of the Revolution ; but I am wholly incapable of it ; and if I had vanity enough to think myself capable of it, should not dare to attempt it."
The portraits referred to by the venerable writer were full lengths, attributed to Vandyke, but evidently erroneously, as these monarchs were minors when Vandyke died. Governor Pownall, in whose time they were sent over, placed them in some obscure corner, where they remained until Governor Bernard discovered and mounted them in elegant frames, and hung them in the Council Chamber.
In the State Library is a fine original portrait of General Gage, presented to the State by General W. H. Sumner, be- tween whom and the British general's wife it will be remem- bered a relationship existed. The last of the royal governors is separated from fellowship with his illustrious predecessors.
Suspended from the ceiling of the Representatives' Chamber is the ancient symbol of Massachusetts, the codfish, which has been a greater source of wealth than the mines of California. The same fish, which the reader may see upon one of the colony stamps we have represented in a previous chapter, hung in the old hall in State Street, but was taken down, and was not restored until after the peace, when, on the motion of John Rowe, it was again disp ayed before the assembled wisdom of the Commonwealth.
John Davis, the intrepid navigator of Queen Elizabeth's reign, was on our coast in 1585, in search of a northwest pas- sage, and records his experience of the great schools of codfish he encountered. Davis discovered the well-known straits to which his name has ever since been applied. He says :-
" Wee beeing vnprouided of fishing furniture, with a long spike nayle made a hoke, and fastening the same to one of our sounding lynes Before the bayte was changed wee tooke more than fortie great cods, the fishe swimming so aboundantly thicke about our
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barke as is incredible to be reported of, which, with a small portion of salte that wee had, wee preserued some thirtie couple, or there aboutes, and soe returned for England."
The summit of Beacon Hill, on which stood the ancient Pharos of Boston, is intersected by Temple Street, named for Sir John Temple, who married a daughter of Governor Bowdoin. A portion of the elevation comes within the Reservoir site, and the houses south of it. The tract owned by the town was only six rods square, with a way of thirty feet leading to it. This was sold to John Hancock and Samuel Spear in 1811, when the action of the abutters in digging down the hill ren- dered it untenable. On the top of this grassy mound was erected the Beacon, shown in all the early plans of the town. It was a tall mast standing on cross tim- bers placed upon a stone foundation, and supported by braces. Treenails were driven through the mast by which it was ascended ; and near the top projected a crane of iron sixty-five feet from the base, upon which was suspended an iron skele- ton frame, designed to receive a barrel of tar, or other combustibles. This recep- tacle was placed at an altitude of more than two hundred feet from the sea level, BEACON. and could be seen, when fired, for a great distance inland. Its
object was to alarm the country in case of invasion. This beacon was erected about 1634-35, the town having ordered it set up on Centry Hill in this year, with a watch of one person, to give the signal on the approach of danger. It was newly erected in 1768, having fallen from some cause un- known. In November, 1789, the beacon was blown down.
Following the primitive signal spar, a monument of brick, sixty feet in height and four in diameter, was erected, in 1790,
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commemorating the events of the Revolution. Charles Bul- finch was the designer. It was a plain Doric shaft, raised on a pedestal of stone and brick, eight feet high. The outside was encrusted with cement ; and on the top was a large gilded eagle of wood, supporting the American Arms. After the fall of the old beacon, Governor Hancock of- fered to erect another at his own cost, but the movement for an obelisk being already on foot, the proposal was with- drawn, and the selectmen proceeded to lay out the hill for the monument. The monument was taken down and the hill levelled in 1811. It stood very near the southeast corner of the Reser- voir, Temple Street passing directly over its position. The earth which formed the cone was deposited in the Millpond, making a future foundation for the Lowell and Eastern Railroad stations. The tablets of slate bore in- MONUMENT. scriptions written by the architect,
Charles Bulfinch, as follows : -
ON THE SOUTH SIDE. To Commemorate the train of events which led to the American Revolution and finally secured Liberty and Independence to the United States, this column is erected by the voluntary contributions of the citizens of Boston M.D.CCXC.
ON THE EAST SIDE. Americans While from this eminence Scenes of luxuriant fertility of flourishing commerce and the abodes of social happiness meet your view, Forget not those who by their exertions Have secured to you these blessings.
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ON THE WEST SIDE.
Stamp Act passed 1765. Repealed 1766. Board of Customs established, 1767 British troops fired on the inhabitants of Boston, March 5, 1770 Tea Act passed 1773. Tea destroyed in Boston, December 16. Port of Boston shut and guarded June 1, 1774. General Congress at Philadelphia Sept. 5 Battle at Lexington, April 19, 1775. Battle at Bunker Hill, June 17. Washington took command of the army July 2. Boston evacuated, March 17, 1776. Independence declared by Congress, Hancock President, July 4.
ON THE NORTH SIDE.
Capture of the Hessians at Trenton, Dec. 26, 1776 Capture of the Hessians at Bennington, Aug. 16, 1777 Capture of the British army at Saratoga, Oct. 17. Alliance with France Feb. 6, 1778. Confederation of the United States formed, Bowdoin President of Convention, 1780. Capture of the British army at York, Oct. 19, 1781 Preliminaries of Peace Nov. 30, 1782 Definitive Treaty of Peace Sept. 10, 1783 Federal Constitution formed, Sept. 17, 1787 And Ratified by the United States, 1787 to 1790. New Congress assembled at New York, April 6, 1790. Washington inaugurated President, April 30. Public Debt funded, August 4, 1790.
The base of the monument was enclosed by a railing, with benches for the use of pilgrims to the spot. A view, equalled only by that now to be obtained from the lantern of the State House, well repaid a breathless scramble up the steep acclivity. On the Derne Street side a flight of wooden steps conducted part way up the eminence, but, after that, the explorer had to avail himself of the foot-holes worn by other visitors, until he reached a space fifty feet square on the summit. On all sides, except the north, the contour of the ground was perfect ; there it had been encroached upon, in 1764, to a degree endangering the elevation, by one Thomas Hodson. The town, by a com- mittee, remonstrated with Hodson, but to no purpose, although Thomas Hancock and James Otis, Esqrs., were of the delegation.
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The contumacious Hodson persisted in digging gravel on his lot, and the committee were obliged to content themselves with a recommendation to employ the intervention of the General Court.
No account appears that the original beacon was ever used, but when the troops were momentarily expected in 1768, the Bostonians prepared it for firing, to give the intelligence to the country. Governor Bernard waxed very wroth at this presump- tion, and sent Sheriff Greenleaf to remove the tar-barrel which the Sons of Liberty had placed in the skillet. " Matters now," wrote the governor, " exceeded all former exceedings."
In 1865 the Legislature authorized the rebuilding of Beacon Hill Monument by the Bunker Hill Monument Association, they to receive the tablets now in the custody of the Common- wealth. To Mr. R. C. Winthrop is said to belong the credit of the suggestion, as yet not carried out.
Mt. Vernon Street was formerly called Sumner Street as far as Belknap ; beyond this it was Olive Street. The whole was then called Sumner, and, in 1833, by its present name. Han- cock was George Street ; Bowdoin, like Hancock, named for the governor, was first Middlecott Street. As early as 1722 only a narrow pathway prolonged Beacon Street across the Hancock pasture, around the base of Beacon Hill. To this the name of Davie's Lane was given. Beacon Street then terminated at the Almshouse.
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Besides the ropewalks mentioned west of Hancock Street, there was one east of it, which became the property of the State by purchase. This ropewalk-site now forms the westerly side of the Reservoir. A long ropewalk, coinciding nearly with the line of Belknap Street, is upon the earliest map ; ropemak- ing was an important industry of Old Boston, especially of the westerly portion of it.
Succeeding to the old gambrel-roofed Almshouse came the stately edifice at the corner of Park and Beacon Streets, chiefly remarkable as having been the house in which Lafayette so- journed during his visit to Boston in 1824. It was erected by Thomas Amory, before 1800, for his residence, its site commanding a beautiful view of the Common, but was later divided into four
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dwellings. In part of this mansion resided Christopher Gore, during the year he was governor of Massachusetts. Fisher Ames, who died July 4, 1808, was buried from this house. The funeral services took place at King's Chapel. Hon. Sam- uel Dexter pro- nounced his eu- logy. It was
later tenanted by George Tick- nor, the distin- guished scholar, one ofthe found- ers of the Public Library, and au- thor of the His- tory of Spanish Literature.
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Before the di- vision of the LAFAYETTE'S RESIDENCE. building, it was kept as a fashionable boarding-house by Mrs. Carter, until she removed to the present Howard Street. These boarding-houses were, before the erection of the Tremont House, the resort of strangers visiting Boston.
Edward G. Malbone, the celebrated portrait-painter, had his studio there. He accompanied Allston to Europe, and was urged by West to remain, but preferred returning to the United States. Malbone excelled in miniature-painting.
Samuel Dexter was a resident in that part of the house front- ing on Beacon Street. A Bostonian and a Harvard man, Mr. Dexter was one of the greatest lawyers Massachusetts ever had. Judge Story said of him that he never descended to finesse or cunning before a jury ; Webster, that his statements were argu- ments. He served in both houses of Congress ; in the upper branch during the exciting times of the troubles with the French Republic. He was successively Secretary of War and of the Treasury, under Mr. Adams, and for a time acting Secretary of State. In politics Mr. Dexter was a stanch Federalist, but sup-
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ported the war of 1812. He was first president of the first temperance society formed in Massachusetts. The accomplished scholar, Lucius M. Sargent, studied law with Mr. Dexter.
After Mr. Dexter, the building was used - not too success- fully - as a club-house. It was rented by Mr. Quincy, when mayor of Boston, for the use of Lafayette, during the week he was the guest of the city.
Lafayette, in order to redeem his pledge to be in Boston at a stated time, had to ride forty miles at night, arriving at Dedham at midnight. His meeting with Governor Eustis, with whom he had been acquainted in the old Revolutionary army, was ex- tremely interesting, the governor exclaiming, "I am the hap- piest man that ever lived."
The General was escorted from the residence of Governor Eustis, in Roxbury, into town, by a cavalcade which conducted him to the city limits, where he was received by the city au- thorities. He proceeded, under a military escort, to the head of the mall on Tremont Street, where the scholars of the public. schools were drawn up to receive him. All accounts agree that on no occasion were there ever so many people in Boston before. After paying his respects to the governor and Council in the Senate Chamber, the General was conveyed to his lodgings. A handsome arch was thrown over Washington Street, at the site of the old fortifications, with this inscription written on the spur of the moment the day previous by the poet Sprague : -
" Welcome, Lafayette ! The fathers in glory shall sleep, That gathered with thee to the fight, But the sons will eternally keep The tablet of gratitude bright. We bow not the neck, and we bend not the knee ; But our hearts, Lafayette, we surrender to thee."
Another arch was erected on the site of the Old Liberty Stump, opposite Boylston Market. Lafayette rode, uncovered, in the barouche with Mr. Quincy, bowing incessantly to the multitudes that pressed around him. A scene of great interest occurred when the General appeared on the balcony of the man- sion he was to occupy. On either side of him were Governor
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Eustis and ex-Governor Brooks, clad in their old Continental uniforms. These two, brothers in arms, had buried an old animosity to greet the noble Frenchman, -a circumstance known to and applauded by many. The Boston Regiment, which had escorted the General, passed in review ; and, amid the cheers of thousands of spectators, the General and his dis- tinguished companions withdrew.
A dinner was given to Lafayette at the Exchange Coffee House on the 27th, at which, after the company had partaken of an elegant repast provided by Colonel Hamilton, the General gave the following toast : -
"The city of Boston, the cradle of Liberty ; may Faneuil Hall ever stand a monument to teach the world that resistance to oppres- sion is a duty, and will, under true republican institutions, become a blessing."
The General made a visit to the battle-ground of Bunker Hill, also to the Navy Yard, where he was welcomed by Com- modore Bainbridge. He passed an evening at Mrs. Lloyd's, lady of Senator Lloyd, at their residence in Somerset Street. He also visited Governor Eustis at Roxbury, and Governor Brooks at Medford, where, in allusion to the ex-governor, an arch was erected near the meeting-house with the inscrip- tion : -
" General Lafayette, Welcome to our hills and Brooks."
He attended divine service on Sunday at Brattle Street, where he heard Dr. Palfrey, and in the afternoon went to Quincy to dine with the venerable John Adams. "That was not the John Adams I remember," said the General, sadly, after- wards. "That was not the Lafayette I remember," said the patriarch after the meeting." Both had changed, the ex-Presi- dent was verging on ninety, and the General sixty-seven ; Mr. Adams died in 1826, Lafayette in 1834.
On Monday, August 30, a grand military review took place on the Common. The troops were under the command of Major-General Crane. The Cadets escorted General Lafayette from his lodgings to the State House, thence to the Common,
* Life of Quincy.
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where the governor and other officers of the Commonwealth were assembled. About six thousand troops took part in the review, Generals Lyman and Appleton commanding brigades. Dinner was served in an immense marquee, to which more than twelve hundred guests sat down. In the evening the General gave a levee at his residence which was thronged by all classes, the Marquis bestowing particular attention on every individual of humble appearance or advanced age.
Lafayette enjoyed his visit to Boston highly. He was cheered to the echo whenever he went abroad, and the corner of Park Street was seldom deserted. One day, when he returned from some excursion with the mayor, there was a great crowd to see him alight. He turned to the mayor and said, " Mr. Quincy, were you ever in Europe ?" "No, General." "Then," said Lafayette, "you cannot understand the difference between a crowd in Europe and here in Boston ; why, I should imagine the people of your city were a picked population out of the whole human race."
General Lafayette's first visit to Boston was in. 1778, with D'Estaing. He was next here in 1780, when he returned from a trip to France, where he had been to transact some business. He remembered perfectly the persons who had received him on that occasion, - when he landed from the frigate Hermione at. Hancock's wharf, -and whom he had visited. On his second visit he was accompanied by his son and by M. Levasseur. The people of America will not soon forget their generous and gal- lant ally, who asked permission to serve as a volunteer in the American army. Brandywine, where he was wounded, and the trenches of Yorktown, alike attest his valor. He has no monu- ment ; but paper, even more durable than marble, furnishes us with records like this : -
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