USA > Massachusetts > Suffolk County > Boston > Old landmarks and historic personages of Boston.. > Part 35
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Wharves were built at intervals along the eastern shore, from Beach to Dover Street. In front of these wharves dwell- ings and stores were erected, facing what is now Washington Street. Josiah Knapp's dwelling, recently removed from the corner of Kneeland Street, was one of these, his wharf being so near the street that the passers-by complained that the bow- sprits of his vessels unlading there obstructed the highway.
In the spring the road upon the Neck was almost impassable, especially before the centre was paved, which was from neces-
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sity done at last, but with such large stones that the pavement was always avoided by vehicles as long as the old road was practicable.
Measures began to be very early considered to protect the Neck from the violence of the sea. In 1708 the town granted a number of individuals all the tract included within Castle and a point a little north of Dover Street, conditioned upon the completion of a highway and erection of certain barriers to "secure and keep off the sea." A second grant was made nearly eighty years later for a like purpose, extending from the limits of the first grant to a point a little beyond the former estate of John D. Williams, Esq., where the Cathedral now stands. From this beginning dates the reclamation of that extensive area now covered in every direction with superb public edifices or private mansions.
A dike was built on the exposed eastward side, crossing the marshes to the firm ground on the Roxbury shore, before the Revolution, which traversed both the British and American works on the Neck. This followed in general direction the extension of Harrison Avenue. A sea-wall was built about the same time on the west side, for some distance south from the bridge at Dover Street, nearly as far as Waltham Street. In a word, the general appearance of the Neck sixty years ago, to a spectator placed at the Old Fortifications, was similar to the turnpikes crossing the Lynn marshes to-day, and was deso- late and forbidding in the extreme, especially to a nocturnal traveller.
From the old fortifications, northwardly, the highway was called Orange Street as early as 1708. Washington Street was named after the memorable visit of the General in 1789, and at first extended only from near Dover Street to Roxbury line ; the name was not applied to the whole extent of the present thoroughfare until 1824, when Cornhill, Marlborough, New- bury, and Orange became one in name as well as in fact.
Few of the thousands who daily traverse the Neck, with its street-cars, omnibuses, and private equipages following each other in rapid succession, can realize that travellers were once
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in great danger of losing their way along the narrow natural causeway and its adjacent marshes. Yet so frequent had such accidents become that not only the town but the General Court took action in 1723 to have the dangerous road fenced in.
The Neck marshes were a favorite resort for birds, and were much frequented by sportsmen. It is related that Sir Charles and Lady Frankland one day narrowly escaped being shot as they were passing over the highway. In 1785 the town of Roxbury was obliged to place sentinels here to prevent the desecration of the Sabbath. The meadows continued in much later times to be a resort for this purpose.
The Neck was paved quite early in the last century, accord- ing to the fashion we have described elsewhere. In 1757 the General Court authorized a lottery to raise funds for paving and repairing the highway. The forty-two rods of Orange Street, mentioned as having been ordered paved in 1715, were probably the portion nearest the town, but it was paved in 1775 as far as the British works. The whole Neck was paved under the mayoralty of Josiah Quincy.
In colonial times the fortification which was raised a little south of Dover Street was the limit of the town, - all beyond was nearly in its primitive condition. In 1794 there were but eighteen buildings between Dover Street and the line. In 1800 there were not more than one or two houses from the site of the new Catholic Cathedral to Roxbury. The few buildings standing between the American and British lines were burnt during the siege, and only two barns and three small houses were then left on what was properly termed the Neck.
A few doors north of Dover Street, on the easterly side of what was then old Orange Street, was the home of the favorite author and poet, Henry T. Tuckerman. The house was struck during the siege by a shot from the American lines. Mr. Tuck- erman has contributed largely to our literature both in verse and prose, as an essayist, critic, biographer, and accomplished traveller. He was also well known through his articles in our leading magazines. As a poet, his " Rome " gives a good sam- ple of his style.
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" A terrace lifts above the People's Square Its colonnade ;
About it lies the warm and crystal air, And fir-trees' shade."
This house, like most of those on our main avenue in the beginning of the century, stood end to the street, which gave a singular impression to a stranger, and recalls the following quaint description of Albany by old Jedediah Morse, which has given rise to a witticism on the peculiarity of the inhabi- tants of that town : -
" This city and suburbs, by enumeration in 1797, contained 1,263 buildings, of which 863 were dwelling-houses, and 6,021 inhabitants. Many of them are in the Gothic style, with the gable end to the street, which custom the first settlers brought from Holland ; the new houses are built in the modern style."
The only purpose of utility for which the Neck was formerly used, except perhaps the grazing afforded by the marshes along the causeway, was for brick-making. There were brickyards north of Dover Street, as well as south, before the Revolution. These gave employment to many poor people during the con- tinuance of the Port Act. In this connection we may mention the total absence of building-stone of any kind on the site of original Boston. The principal elevations have been either wholly or partially removed without encountering a ledge of any description.
In October, 1786, the State of Massachusetts, being greatly in want of a specie currency, passed an act to establish a mint for the coinage H of copper, silver, and gold. This WEALTH was one of the GENT powers of sover- eignty which the S States continued 1787 to exercise under the old " Arti- MASSACHUSETTS CENT OF 1787. cles of Confed-
eration." Joshua Wetherle was appointed master of the mint
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in May, 1787, and authorized to erect the necessary works and machinery. $70,000 in cents and half-cents were ordered to be struck as soon as practicable.
Wetherle established his works on the Neck, in the rear of what is now Rollins Street, and at Dedham, the copper being first carted to Dedham to be rolled, and then brought back to Boston to be coined. In July, 1787, the national government established the devices of its copper coin.
Early in 1788 the copper coin ordered by the State began to be issued, but only a few thousand dollars of the large amount ordered were put in circulation before the work was suspended by the State in consequence of the adoption of the Federal Constitution, which reserved the right to coin money to the general government. The emblems on the Massachusetts cent and half-cent were the same. One side bore the American eagle with a bundle of arrows in the right talon and an olive- branch in the left, with a shield on the breast, on which is the word " cent " ; the word " Massachusetts " encircling the bor- der. The reverse represents a full-length Indian grasping his bow and arrow, but, as Mr. Felt remarks, considerably improved in appearance since he appeared on the colony seal. A star appears near the head, as in the State seal, emblematic of one of the United States, and the word " Commonwealth " com- pletes the device.
The first object which arrested the attention of the traveller as he journeyed towards Old Boston was the gallows, standing as a monument of civilization at the gates. It was at first situated near the old fortification on the easterly side of the Neck, but stood at a later period not far from the site of the St. James Hotel.
A characteristic anecdote is related of Dr. Warren in connec- tion with the gallows. It is said that as he was one day passing the spot he met some British officers, one of whom exclaimed, "Go on, Warren, you will soon come to the gallows." Warren immediately turned back and demanded to know which of them had thus accosted him, but neither of the warriors had the courage to avow it.
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Here were hanged the pirates John Williams, Francis Fred- erick, John P. Rog, and Niles Peterson, in 1819 ; and in the following year Michael Powers was also executed for the mur- der of Timothy Kennedy. Perez Morton was then district- attorney. Powers was defended by Daniel Webster, but was convicted, on an unbroken chain of circumstantial evidence, of having murdered and then buried his victim in a cellar.
The defences of Boston very early engaged the attention of the settlers. Fort Hill was fortified as early as 1634, and steps were taken to build a work on Castle Island in the same year. It is reasonable to conclude that the protection of the land side i received even earlier attention, the danger being more imminent. The Indians in the neighborhood were, as a general thing, friendly, but were not trusted, and a guard of an officer and six men was placed on the Neck, by order of the court, in April, 1631. We cannot, however, fix the date with precision, though a barrier was certainly erected prior to 1640. The gates of the old fortification were constantly guarded, and were shut by a certain hour in the evening, after which none were allowed to pass in or out.
The primitive barrier had disappeared before 1710, the broken power of the Indians leaving nothing to apprehend from that quarter. In this year the town voted that a line of defence be forthwith made across the Neck, between Boston and Roxbury. A suitable number of great guns were ordered to be mounted, and a gate erected across the road. The foun- dation of this work was of stone and brick, with parapet of earth ; part of what was considered to be the remains of the old fort was uncovered in 1860, when excavations were making in the street, just south of Williams Market.
In September, 1774, when matters were approaching a crisis between the people and the King's troops, Gage began to fortify the Neck. The remains of the old works were strengthened, guns mounted, and earthworks thrown up some distance in advance of these on both sides of the highway. The armament at first consisted of two twenty-four and eight nine pounders. The first troops stationed by Gage in this quarter were the
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59th regiment, which arrived from Salem September 2, and encamped on the Neck. On the 4th four pieces of field artil- lery were taken from the Common and placed in front of the troops, fatigue parties from which went to work upon the in- trenchments. By midwinter the ordinary garrison was one hundred and fifty men, with a field-officer in command. This force was increased before the battle of Lexington to three hundred and forty men. A deep fosse, into which the tide flowed at high water, was dug in front of the Dover Street fort, converting Boston for the time into two islands.
In July, 1775, when the siege had fairly begun, the work nearest the town mounted eight twenty-four, six twelve, two nine, and seven six pounder guns, and was called during the siege "The Green Store Battery," from the warehouse of Deacon Brown, painted that color, which stood on the site of the Williams Market. The advanced work, which was much the stronger, mounted eight twenty-four, four twelve, one nine, and seven six pounders, with six eight-inch howitzers, and a mortar battery. The road passed directly through the centre of both lines, the first being closed by a gate and draw- bridge. The redan was flanked by a bastion on each side of the highway, from which the lines were continued across the intervening marshes to the sea. Floating batteries, abattis, trous-de-loup, and other appliances known to military science, were not wanting. Two guard-houses were on either side of the road immediately in the rear of the advanced post, while a third and smaller work, lying between the others on the eastern sea-margin, bore on Dorchester Neck, and took the left curtain and bastion of the main work in reverse. Above all waved the standard of England.
BRITISH LINES ON BOSTON NECK IN 1775.
The position of the main British work, vestiges of which were distinctly visible as late as 1822, particularly on the west
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side of the Neck, was between Dedham and Canton Streets. Mounds, ramparts, and wide ditches yet attested the strength of the defences which Washington deemed too formidable to be carried by assault. Remains of planks and poles used to support the embankment of what may have been one of the bastions were discovered many years since in digging the cellar of Edward D. Peters's house on the north corner of Canton and Washington Streets. Mr. John Griggs, whose recollections of the Neck go back more than half a century, remembers traces of the intrenchments on the east side, where we have located them. The visitor to the spot will not fail to observe that from this point the first unobstructed view is obtained in front as far as Washington Market.
By Washington's order Colonel Gridley rendered these works useless as soon as the Continental army moved to New York, so that if the enemy, whose fleet was still on the coast, should suddenly repossess themselves of Boston, they might not find the old defences available. From this stronghold Gage, Howe, Clinton, and Burgoyne grimly marked the rising intrenchments of the Americans three quarters of a mile away, or listened to the roll of the drums that greeted the approach of their chief- tain as he made his daily tour of the hostile lines. Gage at one time appears to have intrusted the defence of his lines on the Neck to Lord Percy.
Colonel Trumbull, afterwards one of Washington's military family, but then belonging to a Connecticut regiment, first brought himself to the notice of the general by a daring ex- ploit. Learning that a plan of the enemy's works was greatly desired at headquarters, he crept near enough to them to make a drawing, with which he returned to camp. For this act he was appointed aide-de-camp. A British soldier of artillery soon after came into the American lines with a plan of the hostile forts. From the time of the investment until the siege was raised, rigid martial law prevailed in Boston, with sentinels posted at all important points, patrols traversing the streets, and a town major at the head of police affairs.
Here Gage remained ignobly shut up, attempting nothing
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after the battle of Bunker Hill but a few marauding excursions along the coast in search of fresh provisions. His extremities are ludicrously set forth by that inimitable Revolutionary poet, Philip Freneau. The scene is a midnight consultation at the general's quarters.
" The clock strikes two ! - Gage smote upon his breast, And ery'd, - ' What fate determines must be best - But now attend - a counsel I impart That long has laid the heaviest at my heart - Three weeks -ye gods ! nay, three long years it seems Since roast-beef I have touch'd, except in dreams.
In sleep, choice dishes to my view repair ;
Waking, I gape and champ the empty air. - Say, is it just that I, who rule these bands,
Should live on husks, like rakes in foreign lands ?"
The space between the opposing works became a battle- ground for the skirmishing parties of the two armies, each of which had pickets in their front, covered by slight intrench- ments. A short distance in advance of the British works on the west side of the highway were the house and barns of a Mr. Brown, which served the British admirably as a post from which to annoy our men. This was the house at which Bur- goyne proposed to meet Charles Lee, to discuss the differences between the colonies and the mother country. Congress, how- ever, put a veto on a proceeding neither military nor diplo- matic. On the 8th of July (1775) Majors Tupper and Crane surprised the guard and destroyed the house and out-buildings. The bare chimneys remained standing, and to some extent af- forded a protection to the enemy.
After the battle of Lexington the Americans at first merely guarded the passage of the Neck with a small force under Colonel Robinson, or until the Provincial Congress took meas- ures to organize an army, and regular military operations were undertaken.
No intrenchments appear to have been thrown up on the Neck by the Continental forces until after the battle of Bun- ker Hill, when the famous Roxbury lines were laid out by Colonel Richard Gridley, the veteran of Louisburg, Quebec, and Bunker Hill, now chief-engineer of the army.
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LANDMARKS OF BOSTON.
From the best evidence to be obtained these lines were situated on the rising ground a little north of the old monu- ment on the line of division between Boston and Roxbury, and near Clifton Place. An abattis was formed of trees felled with the tops pointed towards Boston, as an obstacle to the much- dreaded Light Horse, - a needless precaution, for this choice band of heroes never appeared outside their defences. The embankments were strengthened with planks filled between with earth. The works were bastioned, and rested with either flank on arms of the sea.
The American advanced post was first at the George Tavern, which stood a little south of the site of the present Washington Market, and was burnt by a British sally on the night of Sun- day, July 30, 1775.
The George Tavern, sometimes called the St. George, which we have had occasion to mention in connection with the recep- tions of some of the royal governors, was included in an estate of more than eighteen acres, extending nearly or quite to Rox- bury line on the south and across the marshes to the great creek, which formed its boundary on the west. It had or- chards, gardens, and a site which commanded a view of the town of Boston and the harbor on one hand, and Cambridge Bay with the shores of the mainland on the other. While it re- mained, but few travellers might venture over the gloomy Neck, over which the cold winds swept with violence, without a pause under its hospitable roof.
The George is noted in the history of the Colony as the place of meeting of the General Court in 1721, perhaps on account of the prevalence of the small-pox in Boston in that year, when it raged with frightful violence. In 1730, while it was kept by Simon Rogers, the Probate Court was held there. Rogers continued to be landlord until 1734. It was kept at different times by Gideon Gardner and Samuel Mears, and in 1769 by Edward Bardin, who changed the name to the King's Arms, a title it retained but a short time. In 1788 a tavern was reopened on or near the site of the George, but was not of long continuance.
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THE NECK AND THE FORTIFICATIONS.
Before the destruction of the tavern the Americans threw up a work a little below where it had stood, and within musket- range of the British outpost. To this point it was Washington's daily custom to proceed, accompanied by his personal staff, com- posed of men subsequently famous in Revolutionary annals. There was Mifflin, first aide-de-camp, afterwards governor of Pennsylvania, who, as president of the Congress in 1783, re- ceived the resignation of his old chief ; Joseph Reed of Phila- delphia, his trusted friend and secretary ; and Horatio Gates, whose military experience enabled him to fill acceptably the arduous post of adjutant-general, and bring a little order out of the chaos that prevailed in the American camp.
General Washington's uniform at this time was " a blue coat with buff-colored facings, a rich epaulet on each shoulder, buff under-dress, and an elegant small-sword ; a black cockade in his hat." # It was at this point, from which he had, in 1775, daily viewed the inactivity of his enemy with a surprise he has not concealed in his letters, that the general, in 1789, then become President, mounted his famous white charger, a present from Charles IV. of Spain, and, attended by his secretaries, Colonel Lear and Major Jackson, made his last entry into Bos- ton.
Probably no great personage has ever lived whose career has afforded fewer anecdotes to his biographer then General Wash- ington. The calm dignity of his manner repelled every at- tempt at familiarity, but this dignity was in no way associated with hauteur. It is related that Gouverneur Morris, having undertaken once the hazardous experiment of accosting the President unceremoniously, declared that nothing would induce him to repeat the attempt. The French officers who served with Rochambeau were at once captivated by Washington's noble presence and gracious manner.
The Washington Market stands on the site of the Washing- ton House, in which Mrs. Rowson once kept her school for young ladies, and which, under the control of the Cooleys, father and son, became a much-frequented resort for sleighing-
* Thacher's Military Journal.
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parties, when the Neck was the course to which, in winter, the beauty and fashion of the town repaired.
Next south of the market is a three-story brick building, kept as a tavern as far back as 1820, and known first as Wash- ington Hall, and subsequently as the Washington Hotel. It was kept in 1837, and for some time subsequently, by Amherst Eaton of Concert Hall. Both of these houses were on the George Tavern estate.
In 1737 the following petition was presented by Stephen Minot to be allowed a license to sell liquors at his tavern on the Neck (supposed to be the George Tavern). It was allowed.
" That your petitioner lately met with very heavy losses by the way of the sea it stands him in stead to put his estate on the land to the best improvement he possibly can in a way of Trade &c. And as he designs to keep for sale a variety of goods suitable for the country, So he apprehends it will but little avail him unless he may be permitted to supply his customers with Rum also, because they usually chuse to take up all they want at one place."
Thacher, who was a surgeon of Colonel Jackson's regiment in the old war, relates an amusing incident of the arrival of that regiment at Boston after a forced march from Providence, R. I. : -
" A severe rain all night did not much impede our march, but the troops were broken down with fatigue. We reached Boston at sun- rising, and near the entrance of the Neck is a tavern, having for its sign a representation of a globe, with a man in the act of struggling to get through it ; his head and shoulders were out, his arms ex- tended, and the rest of his body enclosed in the globe. On a label from his mouth was written, 'Oh ! how shall I get through this world ?' This was read by the soldiers, and one of them exclaimed, 'List, d-n you, list, and you will soon get through this world ; our regiment will be through it in an hour or two if we don't halt by the way.'"
The scarcity of powder within the American lines during the siege of Boston is connected with an incident not without interest. At first, a few country people were allowed to pass into town with provisions, after undergoing a search at the British post at the Green Store. Market-wagons were but little
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used, the farmers riding on horseback with panniers containing their marketing. George Minot, of Dorchester, from his fre- quent visits was well known to the guard, who allowed him to pass without examination. Had they looked into the honest man's panniers, they would have found them well filled with " villanous saltpetre," which he was, at great personal risk, conveying to his friends. The money to buy the powder was furnished by Minot's father, John Minot, a selectman of Dor- chester. The government afterwards acknowledged and paid the claim, with which Minot purchased a part of Thompson's Island.
It is a matter of history that, within musket-shot of twenty British regiments, Washington's whole army was disbanded and reorganized ; it is no less true that in August, 1775, the entire supply of powder was only nine rounds per man. Wash- ington's letters at this time are full of anxiety.
The flags used by the Americans during the siege of Boston have always been a subject of much interest. The flag of thir- teen stripes was first raised on the heights near Boston, prob- ably at or near the commander-in-chief's headquarters, January 2, 1776. Letters from Boston at this time say that the regulars did not understand it ; and, as the king's speech had just been sent to the Americans, they thought the new flag was a token of submission. The British Annual Register of 1776 says, more correctly, that the provincials burnt the king's speech, and changed their colors from the plain red ground they had hith- erto used to a flag with thirteen stripes, as a symbol of the number and union of the colonies. This was, without doubt, the flag that, on the 17th March, 1776, waved over the Old State House and Province House, and was borne in the van of the American troops.
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