Picturesque Hampshire : a supplement to the quarter-centennial-journal, Part 2

Author: Warner, Charles F.(Charles Forbes), 1851-
Publication date: 1890
Publisher: [Wade, Warner]
Number of Pages: 128


USA > Massachusetts > Hampden County > Picturesque Hampshire : a supplement to the quarter-centennial-journal > Part 2


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Our Artists, Photographers and Engravers.


"Picturesque Hampshire" is of course largely the work of artists, photographers and engravers; in fact, the reading matter of this work is necessarily subordinated to the display of their handicraft.


First of all, the Frontispiece of Elbridge Kingsley, he ideal artist and engraver, speaks for itself and is described on another page. This is the chef d'œuvre of our work. It is one of the triumphs of the Century Maga- zine's favorite artist, who delights in culling the beauties nearest his old home. He has been many times urged to set up his tent, or, rather, his car, elsewhere than in west- ern Massachusetts, but as yet he has not been lured any length of time far from the scenes of his boyhood ; he has generally found a great sufficiency of art material right here in Hampshire. The old towns of Hadley, Hatfield and the Meadow City owe much to Elbridge Kingsley ; with the devo- tion of a lover to his mistress, he has paint- ed and extolled their beauties in many a picture ; he is most at home with them, and yet he treats them with the most perfect - delicacy of feeling. His description of the


Frontispiece furnishes the che to his treatment of the subject, and one can almost feel the in- spiration and divine afflatus of the artist himself, as he looks over this historic land of his fathers, with eye concentrated so wholly upon its picturesque fore- ground that the distant mountain and its top-most house fade into the shadows of evening light and all is lost but the objects near- est at hand on the sacred ground.


Photographers are not always artists; they are sometimes too mechanical in their work to make use of the many natural aids to picture grouping which lie at their command, but "Picturesque Hampshire" is singularly fortu- nate in being able to show unu- sual talent in the gentlemen en- gaged in this work. Photogra- pher Lovell of Northampton and his careful assistant, Mr. Cole, aided the editor of this work in the collection and prepa- ration of a large part of the scenes taken about the conn- ty in the fall of 1889 and the spring of the present year, and Mr. Knowlton assisted, but we should fail to do justice to the amatenr photographers of the county did we not mention particularly the aid they extended us. Prominent among them is L. H. Kingsley of Hatfield. To him we are indebted for the best views in Hattield and near vicinity. Mr. Kingsley has some of the art in- stinet of his brother and knows when to take a picture. The light and shadow effects which he seizes and utilizes in his scenes make his pictures works of art. Fred E. Judd of Southampton is another gentleman to whom we are indebted Tor views in that town. Mr. Judd has the enthusiasm of an artist and the delicate, refined taste of


doubtless, the heart of Kingsley, could he be lured away from these charms of his own home, which, apparently, he never can exhaust. To Mr. Johnson we are indebted for the cover and title design, some excellent wash- drawings, pen and ink sketches and photographs, which we have utilized. This young artist has the rare faculty of making and seizing artistic situations. A little boy


THE SMITH CHARITIES BUILDING,


or girl by the roadside, when he happens along with his camera, suggest happy possibilities to him, especially if the child has a fish-pole or basket in hand, or is engaged in any pleasing occupation or amusement, and our read- ers will find these pages brightened with several "ente bits" of character sketches in this particular. Mr. Johnson evidently has a useful career before him, and he will be heard from some day in a still more pro-


VIEW OF THE CITY FROM THE HILL CORNER OF PARK AND PROSPECT STREETS.


one who searches ont Nature at its best, as is shown in his discovery and picture-preservation of the choicest of the attractions of his town.


Fred I. Cleveland of West Chesterfield, another ama- teur photographer, has our thanks for a picture of the old bridge at that place. He has an interesting collec- tion of local scenery, of his own, and travelers through that region would do well to eall upon him.


Artist Clifton Johnson of Hockanum will be remem- bered by readers of the Quarter-Centennial edition, as he contributed greatly to the artistic success of that work. Since that time he has fully justified the expectations we entertained for him, having performed meritorions work for Scribner and other magazines and publishers of various books. It was quite a matter of course that he should come to our aid in "Pic- turesque Hampshire." He has lived close to the heart of Nature in this county, like his "elder brother," Kingsley. He has literally pitched his tent and camped on the heights, in the valleys and rocky fastnesses of the towns of Hampshire, in the summer months, and there searched ont and brought to light much pictur- esque beauty, which would as much delight,


nounced way, as such talent is always at a premium. Among our artists, the deft and facile hand of Thomas M. Shepherd of Northampton should be noticed. With unusual skill and fidelity he has reproduced many of the saliently picturesque features in public and private buildings in Northampton, with noticeable success. Miss Susanna Lathrop also contributes a few pen and ink sketches.


Finally, we most heartily acknowledge our indebted- ness to the Boston Engraving Co. of 227 Tremont street, Boston, who have furnished us with over four hundred engravings for this work. For delicacy of execution, their engraving, in the much admired half tone process, is better even than that of our Quarter-Centennial edi- tion. The assertion that Boston cannot approach New York in this line of work is now exploded. The work we have in these pages is much superior to any we have heretofore used, where the subjects were happily chosen and the photographs fairly good.


WHAT "PICTURESQUE" IS NOT.


"Picturesque Hampshire" is not an historical work. It will be readily seen why. It is not an attempt to "boom" any one city or town of the county, at the ex- pense of any other. Northampton, as the shire of the county, is given the most and natural prom-


FIRST CHURCH, COURT.HOUSE, ETC.


7


PICTURESQUE HAMPSHIRE.


THE DICKINSON HOSPITAL.


inence, but the prevailing idea throughont is to treat all the towns from a picturesque point of view purely. There is no attempt to glorify Hampshire's great sons of the past or present, to any considerable extent, -- they are so many in number and history has done and will do them justice -- but portraits are given of our great- est poets, anthors, and America's greatest theologian, who found here his severest battle ground, while Jenny Lind is represented as one who gave Northamp- ton its long-boasted meed of praise, as "the "Paradise of America."


"Picturesque Hampshire " is not a gazetteer, nor a travelers' guide-book. Other publications cover the ground of such works and can be easily ohtained in the public libraries or book-stores. Iu a work of this kind it is difflenlt to find room in text for more than the barest description of the interesting points pictured. The original design of the editor was to make a work of considerable literary value, with contributions from several prominent anthors, but the great quantity of illustrations selected, even after the weeding-out process was compiete, prevented this and have made necessary the subordination of the text to the illustrations, as a general thing.


NO ROOM FOR LITERARY DISPLAY.


Owing to the copiousness of the illustrative matter in this book, it has been found impossible to carry out the original intention of giving a story by Edward Bellamy. This was contracted for, as announced in the prospectus, but as, under pressure of ill health, the author gave his consent relnetantly, we feel sure that he drops the mat- ter withont regret, leaving for us only the sentiment of loss in this matter-but the abundance of engravings and the low price of the book ought to amply absolve us from any imputation of bad faith in making the an- nouncement we did to the public.


OUR PORTRAITS.


In a work of this kind, portraits must be the excep- tion, but we find room for those of Jonathan Edwards, Wm. Cullen Bryant, J. G. Holland, Chas. Dudley War- ner, George Bancroft and Jenny Lind, six of the most distinguished personages who have reflected credit upon Northampton and the county. In the brief limits of our space, it is impossible for us to give biographical notices of these subjects and these can be readily found in books


devoted to that work.


It is simply necessary for us to say here thatJonathan Edwards, stern Calvinist as he was in his earlier min- istry, so broadened his theological views in la- ter life as to raise the ery of heresy against himself. He favored what was called the "half-way covenant"- the admission of "un- converted" persons to the sacrament of the "Lord's Supper,"-and on this account such a hne and ery was raised against him that he had to leave Northampton. For the liberality of his later years he deserves this mention and a mellowing remembrance of his aus- terity.


THE COUNTY JAIL ON UNION STREET,


William Cullen Bryant !- what sacred hours, in memory, cluster around this revered Hampshire poet's name ! "Thanatopsis," "The Flood of Years" and "The Water-Fowl," are works grand and immortal, and in pages farther on in this work more is said of this


A GLIMPSE OF SMITH COLLEGE.


most impressive of nature's poets. Josiah Gilbert Holland was, too, a poet of no mean order, and as a native of Belchertown Hampshire treasures his memory, while Northampton owes him her finest tribute in "Kathrina."


Who does not love the hearty, often rollicking style of Charles Dudley Warner, when he goes haek to the old Plainfield farm, takes down the bars, lets us into the sweet scent- ed pasture and shows us how pleasant it is to be a boy ? The incense of family affection rises all the stronger about the now more often-kindled wood fire on the heartn. in many homes all over the land, because of his "Back-Log Studies," and the friends of the genial editor of Harper's "Easy Chair " will be glad to see his kindly "counterfeit pre- sentment " in Picturesque Hampshire.


George Bancroft, the veteran histo- rian, now over eighty years of age and living in Washington, D. C., was a familiar figure on Northampton streets


in the last generation, when he taught the famous Round hill school, which was chiefly attended by the sons of southern planters. Mr. Bancroft is now in very preca- rious health, and before these pages go to press may be numbered with the "silent majority, " but his great literary services, aside from past local associations here entitle him to a place among our portraits.


And finally, the gentle, lovely character, Jenny Lind !- what can we say of her that has not already been said ? We reproduce a quaint old daguerreo- type which represents the "Swedish Nightingale" and her husband, Otto Goldschmidt, " in the posi- tion frequently assumed by young people of their time, when sitting for portraits. Jenny Lind spent in Northampton the happiest days of her life, and why she was happy may be easily imagined. She was as generous and charitable as she was gifted and the poor of Northampton and many other places shared her bounty. It is most fitting that the portrait of this beautiful woman should com- plete and crown our list of portraits.


NOT AN ADVERTISING SCHEME.


While "Picturesque Hampshire" is not an ad- vertising scheme, it has been necessary to take some advertisements in order to carry it through success- fully, but it would require considerably more than we have, to make the work pay without large sales of the book itself. We could have subordinated our illustrations and text to the project of adver-


DEPOT OF THE CONN. RIVER AND BOSTON & MAINE RAILROADS.


tising, even in the reading matter. and doubtless reaped rich returns therefor, but we have preferred to give the people of Hampshire county a purely artistic work. The advertisements are by themselves, as in the Century magazine and similar publications, and the advertisers are entitled to consideration from their own merits, es- pecially for their enterprise and public spirit in using such a work as this. We trust it will only need a glance from the reader to see that such a volume is not issued from the motive which inspires the pub- lishers of so many advertising dodges-merely to catch gudgeons and make money. The object of this publica- tion was, first, to produce a superior, artistic work; next to make a dollar for the publishers if consistent therewith. The first object could not be assured of attainment if the text and illustrations were sold to


LOOKING UP MAIN STREET FROM BRIDGE STREET.


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PICTURESQUE HAMPSHIRE.


VIEW LOOKING WEST OVER THE COLLEGE GROUNDS.


advertisers, and so the second point was made subsidiary to it. Let the public give credit accordingly. That is all we ask.


REMEMBER THE ABSENT ONES.


No more grateful act can be performed than to send the absent sons of Hampshire copies of "Picturesque." and the price is so low that almost every one can afford to send several copies to his friends. Think how welcome


views, by themselves, but they are only taken because of picturesqne or historical value.


INTRODUCING NORTHAMPTON.


This publication is not a business or trade atfair, in the sense of intention to "boom" Northampton or any other place in Hampshire county, as already said. It is assumed that the Quarter-Centennial edition of The


ter Centennial Journal, and the office of this publication is more particularly to portray the picturesque attrac- tions of the " Meadow City " and its sister towns-of the Northampton, in which Beecher laid the scene of his story, "Norwood;" of which Holland sang in his "Kathrina " in well known lines, and which Jenny Lind praised so highly. We might lill many more papers with descriptions of the general business and social attrac- tions of Northampton and all the Hampshire towns, but


THE STATE LUNATIC HOSPITAL.


such a work as this must be to one who has been for some years far away from his native Hampshire hills and meadows. Every Hampshire boy will want a copy of this book when he sets his eyes upon it, for it will be to him a vivid picture, aye, a whole panorama, of the land of his fathers and his own boyhood.


NO FAVORITISM IN "PICTURESQUE."


In making up the collection of pictures for this work, it has been our object to keep clearly in mind, all the time, the main idea, to treat the subject from a purely picturesque point of view, to single ont no particular building or dwel- ling, because it would please cer- tain parties. On the contrary, everything of this kind was stu- diously avoided ; there are a few private residences in detached


Journal, and the various histo ries, gazetteers and gnide-books have informed pretty much everybody what the general at- tractions of Northampton and the various towns in the county are. For instance, it is well known that Northampton is situated on the Connectient river, seventeen miles north of Springfield, very nearly in the


geographical center of the county ; that it is a city of about 15,000 pop- ulation ; that it has the usual complement of churches, fraternal so_ cieties and public in- stitutions, including Smith college for young ladies and the Mary A. Burnham preparatory school; is soon to have an agricul- tural college and one of the most liberally endowed libraries in the world. The state lunatie and Dickinson hospitals and home for aged women, with the Smith Char- ities and Florence Kindergarten, are among its beneficent institu- tions, and the schools are among the best in the country. All this was amply set forth in the Quar-


OLD STONES IN THE CEMETERY.


these advantages have often been portrayed. To any one not yet informed we would say that they are all that the best of New England can furnish. The people of Northampton will welcome sojourners among them- whether for days or years-and will endeavor to make them see that this is as pleasant a place as any on earth for them to settle in. All the advantages which culture, refinement, goed morals and easy communication with the outside world offer are here to be found, and inves- tigation is earnestly desired of all who love old New England towns and desire to see them made still more attractive.


We are not yet ready to give our reader the promised carriage-ride about town, as we wish first to prepare and unfold a sufficiency of the local panorama to make the event interesting. Preceding it must first come an article on the famous "River Gods" of Northampton (the men of two generations ago who, by their learning, political sagacity and eloquence, made this place honor- ed and respected all over the country). And now, hay- ing taken a pictorial look at the principal public build- ings about the center of the town, the article on the next page, descriptive of the most picturesque church fronts in the city, seems timely.


ENTRANCE TO AND FOUNTAIN ON HOSPITAL GROUNDS,


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PICTURESQUE HAMPSHIRE.


Appearance of Church Doors on Week Days.


Even with the door closed, the massive and well proportioned arch entrance to the First Church, looks very inviting and attractive, particularly in summer- time, with the bright fresh Chinese ivy cling- ing as affectionately to its walls as once did the old parishioners to the original society at a time when it was the only church in the place and its material affairs - the parson's salary, etc, if not its religious bearings - were discussed in regu- lar town meetings and yearly appropriations made therefor, the same as for other town ex- penses.


But there was at this time in this old church a growing liberal ele- ment that clung more fondly to their new idea than to the mother


church and in 1825 became the first swarm from the old hive, and formed the Second Congregational (Unitarian) Society. This "Church of the Three Judges," as it was then sometimes called, on ac- count of Judges Howe, Hinckley and Lyman being prominent in its organization, has always had a wonderful influ- ence in liberalizing the whole community and chose for its architecture the unpretentious Doric order, secluded from dis- play by a beautiful tree- shaded avenue, an appro- priate symbol of true char-


acter and its intelligent faith in the One Eter- nal, Power, Wisdom and Love. The second se- ceding child was nat- urally of different type, desiring more definite forms of worship and church government and enconraged by Mr. Cogs- well, one of the pro- prietors of the then re- cently organized and subsequently celebrated Round Hill School, whose pupils were large- ly wealthy men's sons and from fashionable families in the cities and southern states, who desired their children to attend the same church as at home-the Episco-


pal society was formed and a structure erected, using the symmetrical Gothic style - gnite me- diæval even as to its bolt- studded doors and pre- senting as a whole today the most graceful front in town, and one of the best works of Arch- itect Pratt of Northamp- ton.


The Baptist church was built through the indefa- tigable efforts of its first pastor, the Rev. Mr. Wil- lard, who obtained many subscriptions thereto from those of other de- nominations, both in the town and elsewhere, and, as if in seeming acknowl- edgment of these dona- tions the organizers, se- 1 lected a plain, nngarnish- ed style of architecture. free from unnecessary or- naments, and as straight and stern in its lines as the faith for which it was to stand ; but in late years mnch improvement has been made in its appear- ance and some likeness to Smith college tower will be discerned in the engraving of this church tower. The building stands on one of the most sightly and beautiful spots in town, opposite the college green, or triangle, and facing the entrance to Elm street, But a few feet away lies the Turner lot, chosen as the site of one of the greatest libraries of modern times,


and gazing down the street, from the


top-most windows of the church, one looks upon the main business street of the town. Alto- gether, the Baptist people have much to felicitate themselves upon in the situation of their edifice.


The Methodist and Bap- tist people seceded from the original society about the same time, although the former sect was main- tained by a few families at West Farms, then call- ed "Lonetown." The society here today is quite prosperous, and will, no doubt, soon have a more elaborate church than is here illustrated.


the general good acerning therefrom and assisted them financially and otherwise. Quite a difference between those times and today, with their old edifice given over to one branch of the sect and the other occupying this costly structure on Elm street, the only example of cathedral architecture in the city, a style which is the pride of Europe and the ad- miration of all travelers.


There still remained in the Old Church an element that was more demonstra- tive in its religious zeal than the majority of the mem- bers, although of nearly the same belief, and assum- ing for its banner of con- servatism the celebrated nameof Jonathan Edwards,


In the early part of the century an Irishman was considered, here, as al- most a curiosity and about the first one who came to town to live was Ben Jackson, during the year 1811, to be a weaver in the woolen mill, at "Shep- herd's Hollow," now called Leeds, but some thirty years later, enough families had arrived to form a Catholie society and build this church on North King street, it be- ing near where most of the communicants lived. At first there was consid- able opposition to their organizing, but many Protestants believed in


500


organized a society bearing his name.


It was a sorry day when their first edifice succumbed to the flames, some twenty years ago, but now its mem- bers need not feel other than contented in their modern and well appointed building, newly re-furnished and hav- ing an outside most grace- fully attired in the climbing woodbine about its ample entrances.


During the past summer the church has been repaired and greatly improved in its interior, by lowering the gal- leries, re-cushioning the pews and re-frescoing the walls. The spire is called the best proportioned in the eity, and the architecture was by W. F. Pratt of this place.


THE RIVER GODS OF NORTHAMPTON.


The term " River Gods " is a cabalistic phrase, in some respects, to the young and aspiring politicians of Hamp- shire county. But there was a time in our history when it was full of meaning and significance; when no polit- ical enterprise or movement was projected until certain distinguished gentlemen residing in our beautiful valley had been consulted and their concurrence fully secured Now we are not consulted at all. That marks the dif- ference between now and then. Indeed, so far as polit- ical influence is concerned, Hampshire may be classed with Nantucket and Martha's Vineyard. There are


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THE BACK PORCH OF AN OLD BRIDGE STREET HOMESTEAD


some old men still living-of whom the writer is one- who can remember with excusable pride and exultation the period when the voice of our county was frequently potential in the councils of political parties, in the selec- tion of leaders and in conducting campaigns. It is not necessary to inquire why we have sunk into this humil- iating obscurity. To the intelligent reader the fact is apparent and the reason obvious.


In colonial times there were just two localities in the province of Massachusetts that overshadowed all others. These were Boston and the towns in the immediate vicinity, and the settlements in the Connecticut Valley After leaving the sea-shore, political influence, with a "hop, skip and jump," passed over what now consti- tutes the great connty of Worcester, then a region of small and inconsequential hamlets, and alighted in the river towns, Once the town of Hadley possessed more political weight in the General Court of the province than does the city of Worcester in that of the State. And this remark is also true of Hatfield. In recent years among politicians little account is taken of Western Massachusetts except the county of Berkshire. Men of respectable abilities, if they only live in Berkshire, are magnified in the eastern part of the state into intel- lectual giants, as it is well known that


"Distance lends enchantment to the view !"


It is impossible in the limited space assigned to this article to mention all the personages who may have proper claims to be classed as "River Gods." A few may be selected as types of the others. The polit- ical reign of these gods may be divided into two periods, namely, under pr vince rule, when we imported royal governors, and there was a constant struggle between these officials and the representatives of the people to successfully resist the encroachments of kingly authority


A LOOK UNDER THE TREES OF THE BRIDGE STREET PARK.


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PICTURESQUE HAMPSHIRE.


LOOKING WEST, DOWN BRIDGE STREET.




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