USA > Massachusetts > Hampden County > Picturesque Hampshire : a supplement to the quarter-centennial-journal > Part 5
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It is an ancient, much abused, but picturesque look- ing city hall, which we are not ashamed to show the exterior of at least, to our company, as we take up our ride in the carriage, and here is a quaint little road-way known as Crafts avenue, at one side of it. Ask men of the present generation where they scudded to when they took to their heels to get out of the way of the local police on Fourth of July eve, and they will smile as they glance at this last picture on the fifth page.
But "our company" must now look out for themselves, and can turn the pages, as they ride along, as well as we can. Besides there is a good index at the close of
FOOTPATHS IN PARADISE.
this volume, if at any time they get off the printers' track.
As we drive along through the center of the town, coming down King street, the view looking toward Pleasant street is a suggestive one. Here, friends, not many years ago, at the junction of these streets, stood two large elms and a hay- scales, and here open-air abo- lition or anti-slavery meetings were held in days when the de- spised anti-slavery cause could not get a hearing in the church- es. Here the veteran William
WATER VISTAS.
20
PICTURESQUE HAMPSHIRE.
Lloyd Garrison fearlessly told the truth in those days which tried men's souls, and the aged landlord of the Warner coffee-house, Oliver Warner, once attended on a Sunday afternoon, instead of going to meeting, to the great scandal of the "brethren."
risen up to call'its founder blessed. Passing np the street and turning back, we see the First church, new conrt-house and First national bank, all picturesque objects against the horizon. The other side of Main street, being wholly made up of bus- iness blocks, was not pictured in these pages, though some of the buildings are
A LOOK ACROSS THE POND.
SOME PARADISE HOMES.
But the veteran " host " was a jealous lover of human liberty, and with many others was content to wait for time to vindicate him. He was subsequently candidate for the Legislature and was elected representative and Senator; as was his son Oliver, who character- istically had the same
blood and fought also
the "know-nothing" craze. Near by, on the site of the present court - house lawn, stood the old town hail, where later the abolitionists gained entrance, but their possession for an evening even was so
A QUIET DAY.
severely contested as to be a trial by fire, or, rather smoke, for wicked men and boys combined to smoke them out, but without avail. Near the left-hand corner of the street here spoken of is the building of the famous institution of the Smith Charities, whose noble work is peculiar to this age. Oliver Smith of Hatfield left a fund of several thousand dollars, in trust, to representatives of eight towns. for the
A BIT OF THE SHORE.
benefit of apprenticed boys, needy widows and newly married girls, also for the establishment of an agricul- tural college in Northampton, in a few years. The establish- ment of this fund has been one of the most remark- able and far- reaching ben- eficences the age. It has encour- aged thrift and growth of good charac- ter among as- piring yonth and thous- ands have
RUINS OF THE HOE SHOP.
out of the ordinary. Here the old Northampton bank of the "great robbery" fame, has new and elegant quarters, as has, too, the Hampshire county bank, which also has in its upper stories sumptuous accommodations for the Northampton elnb, an institution of the city to which strangers of dis- tinction are always introduced.
A short drive from the main street takes us to the corner of Park and Prospect streets, the boys' coasting-place in winter, and which in the spring and fall of the year furnishes ns with another bean- tiful view of the city, with the quaint Gothie sem- inary building in the foreground. A drive of only about a mile brings us to the Dickinson hospital, founded by Caleb Cooley Dickinson, of Hatfield, who left his money for the comfort of the siek indigent. This institution has already proved its usefulness, and many cases of accident have been quickly and tenderly cared for, where without this place so near at hand there must un- avoidably have been much prolonged suffering and agony in the unfortunate patients now welcome here. Driving down Elm street we ask the atten- tion of our companions in the carriage to another "glimpse" of North-
ampton's pride-Smith
PARADISE MEADOWS-NORTH.
PARADISE MEADOWS-WEST.
21
PICTURESQUE HAMPSHIRE.
college. Is it not a charming picture -- nestled there among the elms? As we clatter along towards the rail- road tracks the depot of two of the railroads lies ou our right, as well as another, not pictured, belonging to the N. Y., N. H. & H. railroad. They are both good structures of their kind, eounected by an arcade, but Northampton is now looking for the day near at hand when a union depot will take their place. As we rattle over the Main-street railroad crossing we have a characteristic business street view, looking np Main street. But a few rods away we draw rein in front of the county jail on Union street and inspect at our leisure the exterior of Sheriff Clark's ample quarters. Jails are about the same everywhere and we do not ask our friends to leave the carriage, although we know that the neat- ness and order within would make the visit seem far from an unpleasant one.
The old Bridge-street cemetery is close at hand, where lie the bones of many a noted man. There are stones in the "old part" over two hundred years old, and the scene pictured by Miss Lathrop, in her pen and ink sketch, can be read- ily identified, if our friends choose to step from the carriage. The Bates tomb, near by, is quite a work of art and also worth inspee- tion.
A mile drive baek through the center of the town and south-west, brings us to the extensive grounds of the lunatic hospital, the tri- umph of many years of careful management and financiering, first by Supt. Pliny Earle and now by Supt. Edward B. Nims. It has long been the model institution of the state, self- supporting and almost per- fect in every respeet. Abuses will of course creep into all establishments of the kind, but this one has been comparatively free from them. As the en- trance to the grounds indi- cates, the premises are well cared for, the fountain and walks in front of the por- tico set off a scene of rare beauty, as the eity and the mountains stretch away at the base of the hill and be- yond the hospital meadow. Beautiful groves and walks
for the patients abouud, and all is done, apparently, that can be, with nature's surroundings, to repair the shat- tered intellects of the unfortunate patients committed here.
Our companions, in this drive must have noticed that, under its appropriate head, the most pic- turesque church fronts of the city have already been described. This was necessary, in that place, owing to the peculiar character of the pen and ink engravings.
"The Back Porch of an Old Bridge-Street Home- stead" will be recognized by almost every one on the street, if not by our companions, as a characteristic view. The wheelbarrow and old settle under the eaves tell their own story of labor and comfort.
What was once a " common " on Bridge-street is now called a park. It is a pretty, triangular piece of ground in front of the old cemetery, and within the memory of the writer had the town powder- house thereon, and in yet more remote days the militia of olden times used to "train " here. With what feelings of awe that small but suggestive building used to impress the boys
THE WINDING STREAM.
PARADISE PANELS ON THE HOSPITAL SIDE.
of the last generation ! Turning our carriage and looking down Bridge street, west, from nearly in front of Gen. B. E. Cook's residence-what a charm- ing street scene we have! The over-arching elms and the irregular peeps at the canopy of blue heaven, to be sure, may be seen in many other parts of the city, but we cannot resist calling the attention of our companions to it here. This is what makes Northamp- ton so lovely in summer- time, friends! Nowhere else in New England can her elms be seen in such luxuriance and graceful form. Look at that mon- ster in front of the Stebbins Lathrop residence - how some of its massive branch- es reach forth, like so many Briareus hands to the earth. Pomeroy Terrace is a very
handsome avenue, but not so noticeable for ancient trees as for handsome and well-kept lawns and walks.
Now turn we our carriage toward the head of Bridge street and a quarter of a mile ride brings us to its north- eastern terminus and the Connecticut river bridge. Here is a substantial iron structure, which permits our passage to the eastern side of the county. The little red house on the left was once the dwelling of the bridge_ keeper, who collected toll in the days when the old structure was in existence. This was an ancient cov- ered wooden affair, and it was lifted bodily from its foundations and thrown into the river, by a wind-storm on June 14, 1876. Eleven persons and seven teams went down with the bridge, though but one was killed-Mrs. Catherine Sullivan of Hadley. About two rods above this new structure is the railroad bridge used by trains of the Boston & Maine rail- road company, also of iron, and walking out on the bridge we have come to see we shall obtain a fine sontlı- eastern view of the mead- ows and mountains. This is a favorite walk with the Smith college students.
Let us return to town by way of North street, where a more than commonplace view is obtained, looking back, near the railroad crossing, of this modest little avenue, made familiar to so many citizens of the county from the fact of its furnishing the only direct road from lower King street to the fair grounds, where the annual cattle-shows are held. From this point we pass down King street, and in looking north, from in front of the old Hopkins estate. catch a glimpse of the massive trunk of the Edwards elm, on the right. Down town again and over to the corner of Pomeroy Terrace and Hancock street gives us another variation of the mountain and meadow scene which never tires the eye, and ou Hawley street, in front of the Washburn estate, is another fine elm.
Now our ride must come to a temporary interrup- tion, for the muse, inspired by the Paradise scenes pictured on this and pre- ceding pages, is ready to sing. The poem which follows is well worthy of the beautiful region it celebrates, and coming from the well known Berkshire poets -- now acclimated to our own Hampshire hills and meadows-will be read with interest and pleasure by all. As to our carriage-ride, we claim all the license of such entertainments generally for ourselves and the friends who aecompany us-the privilege to stop and rest where we will, and this will be necessary frequently, at subsequent stages of this work.
THE RAPIDS.
22
PICTURESQUE HAMPSHIRE.
LAYING
~] the
EARTHSTONE
Above the mountain's purple rim Slowly the sapphire sky grows dim, Beside the river's shadowy line Long shapes ontstretch of bireh and pine, By gleams the flashing brook is seen Deep down within the cool ravine, And tender, twittering notes betray Where nesting birds forsake the day.
Evening and morning come again With balm to bless the hearts of men. Peaceful the hour of set of sun When all day's heavy tasks are done, And with the fall of evening dew The web of hope man spins anew.
" The web of hope man spins anew."
He builds-he plans-as one may see High rising here a new roof-tree, Close on these woods of Paradise The shapely, new-laid walls arise; Again-a home! again a space Apart, to furnish for life's race The hope of days that yet shall be ; Uusmirched-a human history ! Forever on the loom of Time, Whate'er the race, whate'er the clime, Woven by ns, by Heaven planned, Vast, wonderful, anstere and grand, With awe, with solemn trust we scan The destiny of mortal man.
Each by a smile, a tear, a prayer, Adds to the wondrous whole his share; Our lives, our loves, our joy and wo The fatal thread unconscious throw, Through us the vivid colors shine, Or clouds obscure the aerial line.
They come-a happy man and maid, To see their own new hearth-stone laid ; All theirs the home about to be Here where they plant a family tree. This roof their shelter from the storm, This chimney nook, forever warm, These walls, these windows firmly stand, Dear pledges of her promised hand.
Two workmen, lingering with good will, The yawning vacancy to fill, Smiling, have seized the massive stone Before the ample opening thrown ; Wide spreads the cheerful chimney place Which polished tiles in order grace,
While rising high, with carven vine, The solid oak shall all enshrine.
One soft, confiding glance she throws To him who well her purpose knows. Then, bending lightly to her knee, 'Neath the firm stone caressingly Within that hollow cradle lays A record of her maiden days,
" Within that hollow cradle lays."
And in that packet, sealed and safe, This compact of their mutual faith :
"Grateful for all the past, and sure God's boundless mercies shall endure, Here, where our lives the years shall blend, To Him, that future we commend ; Strong in our love, our trust, our youth, Before Him pledge our sacred truth.
"High rising here a new roof tree."
" Each to the other dearer far Than self to self can be, no bar Of wrong, disloyalty, or strife Shall thrust in twain a two-fold life, Our joys, our labor, and our care Here for all time we freely share.
"For us have others willed and dared- With us the gains of life have shared- In all humility we own No happiness is ours alone ; This hearth shall blaze a beacon bright, For here we build for human right."
Now to its place the hearthstone glides ; Firm-rooted are its well-smoothed sides ; She with a tender, wistful smile A-tremble on her lips the while Has hovered near, until at last The final touch is given, as last The yellow daylight fades, and night Mysterious closes on the sight.
A moment in the dusky room The lovers linger; through the gloom Her sweet eyes shine, and in their light A tear-drop sparkles, clear and brignt. So near the hidden sources lie Of grief and pure felicity !
Now all is done. How softly falls Pale twilight round the silent walls : Then suddenly their hearts are stirred By the deep wood-note of a bird, The hermit thrush, in stillness dim, Pours out to Heaven his vesper hymn. D. H. R. GOODALE.
INVOCATION
Come, beautiful morrow- Morrow of man's desire! For thee are our labors, All our hope is in thee ! Bring strength out of sorrow, Out of the darkness, fire:
Come, beautiful morrow, Morning of destiny !
Vast ages have perished, Men and their dreams decayed,
Here by the Long River, Here by the granite hill : New hopes shall be cherished, New vows shall be paid : Peace, then, to the perished- Hail to the future still !
DORA READ GOODALE.
THE RIDE ABOUT TOWN.
CONCLUDED.
Having refreshed ourselves with the foregoing sweet song of our muses, all hands will please prepare to nse their eyes again and we will start up "old Dobbin " once more and move on in our carriage to "fresh fields and pastures new " of scenic enjoyment.
Driving over the Mill river-the modest but ill- omened stream which runs through the town-our com- panions will look in vain for the little character scenes which our artist once found "in the hollow " near the basket-shop. These were taken "on the fly," so to speak, and are gone forever, except on paper, but that little fellow caught accidentally with a stove-pipe hat on his head-isn't he comical in the picture? And the "back yard " of the company has its suggestive lesson- piles of lumber lying about, but all to be put to some use, and nothing wasted. The little foot- bridge over the treacherous stream has also its story and reminiscence to the tired workman who plods his weary way homeward after a day's labor. As we drive back toward the old South-street bridge, let us take a good look at this peculiar structure. It is one of the last of its kind in New England and "must go" sooner or later, as iron works inevitably take the place of such bridges. It has many pleasant associations to those who live in the south part of the city, and none of those who have used it much but will sigh a little when they see the old bridge go down. We wish our friends in the carriage would now observe these beautiful scenes, as "old Dobbin " draws us slowly up South-street hill, lately much improved by the lowering of the grade, for which the com- munity is largely indebted to Alderman Foote. We will not go beyond the top of the hill, however, at present, for the real beauty of the street pretty nearly all lies here and at the north end of it. Therefore, turning back, let ns say "Whoa" at the foot of the hill and look back. It is not much longer, probably, that we shall see standing there the little brick
THE MODERN RIVER CRAFT.
23
PICTURESQUE HAMPSHIRE.
ON THE ROAD TO THE MEADOWS.
school-houses where so many Northampton boys and girls began to "shoot" their young ideas, for the new school-house is already occupied, farther up the street and the old ones must give way to the march of improve- ment, as also must the old Hunt or Kingsley place, still more plainly in view. Looking north again, we see the sonthern side of the old bridge and the pretty little South-street park, where some more of the grand old eluis show forth. Not very far from this point our artist ran across a milk team and thereupon immediately framed one of his character-pictures. There are features about it that partake of Hoekanum, but we shall not "give it away," even to our friend in the carriage, while we fancy " old Dobbin " would say, if he could look at the picture,-"Evil be to him who evil thinks; the team is uot stopping to water milk, as evil-minded man would have it, but simply to give my brother horse a drink."
Now turn we up Ehu street once more and pass into Prospect, and while doing so notice this street vista at the junction. Now, farther on, about opposite the fiuely kept grounds of J. R. Trumbull, turn and look back- another beautiful view. But a few steps farther and we
preserved leave our carriage, as value. We need not more than ordinary and a land-mark of building
we slowly pass down
the hill, to see this
vista across the hand-
some lawn of J. R.
Trumbull's estate.
centers in the vista. wards church spire the right and the Ed- lic church show on school and the Catho- Burnham - Capen gymnasium of the The rear of the new
our artist caught his Bell's residence, that the south side of E. HI. It was on the lawn at
man at work as in the
ALONG SHORE
side of the street. houses on the east between the two tain" may be had of city and moun- and the "glimpse ordinary interest, tion, is of more than the Clarke Institu-
np the hill without gradually climbed for it, who have those not looking It is a revelation to
HOCKANUM FERRY.
the picture, and this estate and "Shady Lawn" -the latter place now unoccupied-make the bright and attractive spots on this (Gothic) street, to which we call
hason
THE OLD " FALL BOAT."
MEMBERS OF WISH-TON-WISH CLUB. (Original Decorative Arrangement.)
have one of those few but charming semi- circular roadways in town-this one sweep- ing around the head of the hill and in front of H. R. Hinckley's residence, while our view shows the homes of Dr. Blodgett and H. A. Kimball, half hidden by the dense tree foliage at this point. The residence of Mr. Hinckley, so near by, is well worth stepping behind the hedge, iuto the yard to see. It was once the home of one of Northampton's noted physicians and most kindly men, Dr. Ben- jamin Barrett, whose daughter is now Mrs. Hinckley. This fine old mansion is a well-
the attention of our friends in the carriage, as we drive by. The mayor of the city, Jeremiah Brown, has a modest cottage at the corner of the little lane which runs from this street to King, and through this we may pass again to that thoroughfare and in the vicinity of the French Catholic church obtain a fair view of the famous Round hill. Jenny Lind and many other cele- brated people enjoyed the at one time superior hotel privileges there furnished. The street view on the hill, in front of
THE FERRYMAN'S SHANTY
THE LUMBER COMPANY'S MILLS.
HIGH WATER, VIEWED FROM E. H. R. LYMAN'S GROUNDS.
24
PICTURESQUE HAMPSHIRE.
noting their surroundings ; but it is only a preparation for the grander scene spread out when one moves a few steps farther on and gains the brow of the hill, in front of what remains of the buildings of the old hotel. Here is a scene which it is simply impossible to photograph, paint or put on paper or canvass in any presentable shape, as our friends in the carriage must admit. Therefore we have brought them to see for them- selves how it was that we could not transfer it to these pages. Driving down the hill we will just dodge in and out one of the prettiest little streets in the city-Henshaw avenue-which continnes on and runs into Crescent street, another circular thoroughfare, which circles all the way around the hill, and is now being lined with fine residences on the west as well as east and north sides. Judge-of-Probate Bassett's residence is on Crescent street, and the creamery is a few rods to the northi- west.
Look at this jolly party of Smith college girls, all ready to start out from the college meadows for a buck-board ride about the country These meadows, by the way, make a beautiful strolling ground for the fair students. They are close by "Paradise " and abnt upon College avenue. Now back again upon Elin-street, for "old Dobbin" is not a bit weary, though
but we cannot drive so far out of the way to see it, just now and "it will keep." Driving down to Para- dise Road, close at hand, we can take in considerable at a glance. In the view near the Swiss cottage the home of the author, George W. Cable, is plainly seen, first on the hill to the right. The home of County Clerk Clapp comes next and the last house on the street is just beyond.
Please notice, friends, as we drive up this street, how neatly it is
ENTRANCE TO LAUREL, PARK CAMP-GROUND.
kept, the whole length of the roadway. This is one of the instances, in a small way, of the benefits of co-operation. The property-owners on this street club together and pay each a small sum every season for the permanent care of it by a competent landscape gardener.
It is to be regretted that we cannot give our carriage companions a view of the completed Academy of Music, which is expected to be the pride of the Meadow City, but our picture of it is a good one, and true to the plans. When it is finished, it is needless to say, it will be a eredit to its builder, E. H. R. Lyman, and a worthy memorial to the son in whose memory it was erected.
"Paradise" proper is our next point of view, and here "old Dob- bin" must halt and we shall ask our friends to walk, for no horse and carriage can comfortably push its way through this sacred pre- cinct. Why, here is little Robin Pillsbury, with his wagon, at the entrance to the glen,-there is room enough for his vehicle, at all events -- and he follows us. At the foot of the hill paths lead in three
VIEW FROM ELIZABETH ROCK-SOUTH.
perhaps bewildered with the frequent turnings. The picturesque old home- stead of the Jewetts has often been admired and we are sure our traveling companions will not be sorry we have brought them to view that and the effect of "sunlight and shadow " under the maples and elms of this grand old street, near the school-house, as also on the street looking up Round hill, in the left of which latter scene stands the maid with a baby carriage. One of Miss Lathrop's "bits" near Welch End is an artistic little piece of work.
VIEW FROM ELIZABETH ROCK-NORTH.
directions, one back, up the hill, and the others east and west, through the glen, and along the bank of the river. Walking to the east we see charming "water vistas," and continning along the edge of the pond and coming ont on College avenne, we arrive at the hoe shop ruins, which have a tragic interest, in the death by fire of the young lady book-keeper of the works, a few years since. In the series of "Paradise" views the picture of "A Quiet Day" shows us the humble but picturesque homes of workingmen on College avenue, perched high above the beautiful scene below. Let ns take a boat and row ont into the middle of the pond-it wont hurt "Dobbin" to rest awhile-and here we see more "Paradise homes," with a boy fishing along shore, as patient as a boy can be. A look across the pond barely shows us, above the trees, the roofs of the residences of Mr. Drury and Mrs. Peck, while a picturesque "bit of the shore " is farther up the river. "The Winding Stream" and "The Rapids" are still farther west, and here we will leave our boat and take a ramble in the "Paradise Meadows," with which too few are acquainted, for here should have been, with the rest of the "Paradise" region, a public park. It is perhaps not too late now to secure it, although the meadows are already partly divided and sold for building lots, which beginning on the brow of the hill, to the north, run down to the river, but which. for building purposes, are practically valueless, as being liable to overflow in a very high freshet. But it is not our desire to depreciate the value of these lands any more than it is to create a fictitions value for them, though here we cannot resist expressing the opinion-and we are sure our visiting friends coincide with us-that the city should take measures to obtain this territory for a park
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