USA > Massachusetts > Hampden County > Picturesque Hampshire : a supplement to the quarter-centennial-journal > Part 4
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But all human pleasures must have an end, the old tall clock that had told the
ON ELM STREET, NEAR THE JEWETT HOUSE.
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PICTURESQUE HAMPSHIRE.
hour fifty years, had ticked off the dreaded hour of nine, which was the signal of departure. Joining the group in the sitting-room, we were treated to the seanty, but sugary, remains of a huge pail of "flip" that the older guests had enjoyed. This, with a parting gift of maple sugar, closed a day of unalloyed enjoyment. Dear old grand-mother, to whom we were in- debted for the greater part of these simple but hugely prized joys, how vividly are all the features of thy kindly face imprinted on my memory! Photography at that day was an un- known art, nor do I need its aid to recall that loving countenance, though it has lain for more than fifty years beneath the turf of the cemetery. My memorial can be of but little worth, save perhaps to the very few surviving participators in these scenes, but the thought of resening some poor remains of past years from obscurity, prompted this imperfect record of them.
" Yes, let the rich deride, the proud disdain, The simple pleasures of the lowly train; To me more dear, congenial to my heart, One native charm, than all the gloss of art."
VIEUX TEMPS.
SUNLIGHT AND SHADOW ON ELM STREET, (NEAR SCHOOL-HOUSE.)
Through the kindness of Bishop Huntington, of New York, we are enabled to use the following interesting pieture of Northampton as it was seventy years ago. It appears in the form of letters, written by Timothy Dwight, D.D., L.L.D., and President of Yale College, and is now out of print. The work consists of four volumes and is in the Northampton public library, but strange to say, the matter which we quote below is not to be found therein, and was the fault of the binder, as a note therein explains.
An Old-Time Picture of Northampton.
Described by Dr. Timothy Dwight, in " Travels in New England and New York."
About four miles above South Hadley the Connecticut passes through the two large mountains, Tom and Holyoke ; having apparently made here, in ancient times, a breach in this range, and forced its way. By the old people in Northampton 1 was informed, many years since, of an Indian tradition, that the great valley north of these mountains was once a lake. The story is certainly not improbable. From anattentive survey of the country along this river, I have no difficulty in believing that a chain of lakes occupied the several expansions at some distant period of time. Here, certainly, the general geography
LOOKING UP ROUND HILL STREET.
ON HIGH STREET LOOKING TOWARD MOUNTAIN AND MEADOW.
of the country, and the particular appearance of the scenery near the river are favorable to this opinion.
We reached Northampton at sunset, and continued there until Tuesday. * *
* * * * * * *
Northampton is built on ten streets, proceeding from the centre with no very distinct re- semblance to the elaws of a erab ; only somewhat less winding, and less regular. It has been said that they were laid out by the cows; and that wherever these an- imals when going to feed in the forests made their paths, the in- habitants located their streets. The probability is that the first planters, being both inclined and obliged to build near to each other, placed their houses wherever the ground was sufficiently dry to fur- nish convenient building spots. In spite of this irregularity the town with its scenery, is a very inter- esting object to the eye.
" A BIT" NEAR WELCH END.
Northampton contains three hundred houses, and is the largest inland town in Massachu- setts. You will remember that hy a town I all along intend a collection of houses in the orig- nal village, and not those of a township. A considerable number of the houses are ordinary, many are good, and not a small proportion are handsome. They are, however, so seattered in the different streets as to make much less im- pression on the eye than even inferior build- ings are handsome. The stores and shops, built on the side of an irregular square in the center, give the traveler a lively impression of the business which is carried on.
The objects, by which this towu is sur- rounded are not, within my knowledge, excelled in splendor and beauty. As I shall describe them hereafter, I shall only observe in this place, that the magnificent front
A SWISS COTTAGE ON PARADISE ROAD,
ON PARADISE ROAD HILL.
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PICTURESQUE HAMPSHIRE.
THE ACADEMY OF MUSIC.
presented by the two mountains, Tom and Holyoke, with the fine opening between them, limited by the Lyme range at the distance of thirty miles, forms an assemblage, not less delightful than singular; and that Round Hill, the summit of an elevation termi- nating in the center of the town; a summit, finely regnlar, crowned with a noble grove, and exhibiting immediately beneath the grove three elegant houses, is inferior to no objects of the same kind in New England.
A great deal of mechanical and mercantile bus- iness is done in Northampton. The most consider- able manufactory of duck, and of coarse linen cloth in the United States, is established here; as is also a large and well contrived tannery, on a capital of $100,000. There are two printing offices, a paper- mill, a book-store, &c., &c. [This in 1820, remember.]
For a long time Northampton was remarkably free from litigation. My grandfather used to boast, that in eighteen years of his life, in which he was in full practice as a lawyer, not a single suit was commenced against any one of the inhabitants. I have been also informed, though I will not vouch for the cor- rectness of the information, that before the revolu- tionary war no inhabitant sned another for debt.
Their manners still resemble those of their
JENNY LIND AND HER HUSBAND
ancestors; but have been changed in many respects, and not always for the better, since the commencement of the American revolution.
Northampton contains one parish, and scarcely has there at any time been a dissentient from the New Eng- land system of religion. Probably no people were ever more punctual in their attendance on public worship than they were for one hundred and thirty years from the first settlement. Fourteen hundred and sixty persons were once counted in the church on a Sabbath afternoon; amounting to five-sixths of the inhabitants. During a great part of the period, religion has flourished in an eminent degree. The present generation are certainly less distinguished in this respect, than those who have pre- ceded them. Yet within a few years, religion has pros- pered extensively, both here and in many other parts of this county. The increase of wealth, the influx of strang- ers, and other causes of degeneraey, have sensibly and unhappily, affected a considerable number of the in- habitants.
House Fronts and a Grand Staircase, Etc.
A stroll "about town " before that "carriage ride" is taken will give our readers some idea of quaint and picturesque effects that they would not otherwise have the opportunity to observe, and these will be found in a leisurely observation on the principal streets.
It has always been considered a pardonable piece of extravagance to elaborate the front of all buildings and this dignified entrance is not an exception to cus- tom. The house was built for a Dr. Frink, who came to town in the early part of the cen- tury, where he with other local physicians, dur- ing a severe epidemic of canker-rash, lost many patients, mostly child- ren, until, Dr. Frink, being a new practitioner and having no reputa- tion, became disconrag- ed and surprised his housekeeper, Mrs. Hutchins, a member of one of the older families in the place, by inform- ing her that he must leave town because of his professional failures, which would be excused in older doctors having established record, but not in him, because of his being younger. "Doctor," said good Mrs. Hutchins, "I know
what is killing these child- ren ; it's the dosing. Now let me go as nurse to your next patient; you pretend to give medicine while I take care of the child." That child recovered, like- wise others by good care and imitation pills, until no one would have other than Dr. Frink to serve them. From that day his snecess was assured and secretly reimbursing his invaluable assistant, he became rich and thus able to build this very costly and substantial brick residence now occu- pied by Miss Allen on King street.
the walls is seen about the windows, and this postern-
The thickness of door half hid by the fragrant lilacs, whose prerogative to rest unmolested near old buildings has long been grant- ed and unquestioned.
In early colonial times, the British government granted land to skilled mechanics, as an inducement for them to settle in various parts of the country, and a mile square in Southampton -then included like other Hamptons in North- ampton-was given the first Pomeroy settler, whose family for generations were inn-keep- ers and gunsmiths, very im- jportant personages in those days, and one of the grand- -- children, Asahel, son of the famous Col. Seth Pomeroy, built for his home the house to which this entrance belongs, which is noticeably of the ever-pleasing colo- nial style. The front door is horizontally di- vided, the upper portion swinging back indepen- dently of the lower sec- tion and one can readily imagine the charming picture once made by Asahel's very attractive ; daughter, Miss Polly Pomeroy, as she convers- ed with her many friends and admirers through this half-admitting door, for she was a belle of the town and one of Nature's ladies of the olden time. This house is the last on Main street, before coming to the railroad crossing.
Above is the entrance to another house, also erected by Asahel Pom- Welcome All To Kearth Red Hill eroy about 1800, but for another daughter, Han- nah. The building has been changed somewhat, formerly having a four- sided roof, but the large oak hewn beams are still there, likewise the broad open fire-place with cost- ly brass andirons, fire- irons and metal fore- stick, enclosed with lattice-work fender and surmounted
GEORGE BANCROFT, HISTORIAN.
18
PICTURESQUE HAMPSHIRE.
by the genial motto, " Welcome all, to hearth and hall." Many quaint pieces of furniture, table ware, old-time fixtures, etc., are still found in the house which today is occupied by Henry Shepherd, a de- scendant of the Pomeroy family.
Here is illustrated an old style coffee urn in -which the beverage was kept hot by filling with live coals an iron cylinder extending through the en- tire receptacle, having draught holes near its ~ base and regulating cap at top.
Near by is a silver creamer and sugar-bowl, the latter containing one of a set of solid silver spoons, bearing on its handle an embossed sheaf of wheat and sickle, given years ago as a customary prize by the H. F. & H. Agricultural society-a practice that might be advantageously revived today, as the perma- maney of such premiums would be now as then a whole- some reminder of previons successes and a stimulant to similar efforts in the future.
The Corinthian order of architecture is one of the most rarely seen now-a- days and the accompany- ? ing ent shows its only rep- resentative in the city, as attached to the substan- tial residence of Miss Bak- er on Pomeroy Terrace, from whose porch is seen an equally rare view of the historical Northampton meadows with their varied crops under cultivation, re- sembling in summer months an immense carpet bound by Mount Tom and Mount Holyoke, whose out- lines picturesquely break the monotony of the sky. T The Baker residence is one of the best preserved resi- dences in the city, and one of the many places on the 1. - , Terrace which have given this quarter a good name, for it is in a very aristocratic section of the city.
Here is another example of the colonial style of building, erected by John Hopkins, a retired Boston broker, whose conservatism and exactness is shown in the selection he made for exterior decoration to his country home. This property, soon to be used for very different purposes, and nntil a few years a residence, has been occupied by his fami- ly and latterly by Prof. Bridg- man for educational purposes, but is now owned and will soon be used by the French Catholic society, whose prospective new church, it is supposed, will be erected on the land adjoining this house and prove a decided innovation on this street.
Next to the entrance porch, the old time builder felt justified in putting his skill and thought into the staircase and one of the best examples can be seen at the home of the Misses Clapp on South street, where it will be noticed that each step is supplied with three different kinds of ser- pentine balusters, all of which were mannfactur- ed in Boston and drawn here by teams. It must be remembered that all this old fashioned, grace- Ful work shown here and elsewhere, was made by hand and was very tedi- ous, laborious and costly and some of the methods of working it are almost a lost art now.
There are other hand- some old fashioned stair- cases in the city, notice- ably those in the resi- dence of the late J. Hunt But- ler and the home of Dr. B. C. Blodgett, but we had not space to illustrate them and the sketch given shows the best specimen in town of the "grand" stair- case.
The residence of Misses Damon on Bridge street, with its Huted Tuscan col- umns half hid by care- fully trained shrubbery and flowering vines and guarded by the massive front fence is the admir- ation of nearly every observer. The builder and owner was Lyman Kingsley, father of Ed- ward, William F., Cal- vin and Albert, all well known in Northampton, who in connection with Isaac Damon, built many similar structures
sich as the Old Chinch, the old Court House, old Mansion House and also many bridges in this vieinity and elsewhere.
This queer building was erected for Edward Clarke. an early resident of Northampton and a re- tired Boston merchant, an uncle of the present Christopher Clarke, and brother of John Clarke, founder of the Clarke Institution, which now in the turn of fortune uses the present struc- ture for its school, after some modifications from its original strongly Greek architecture (one of the best specimen of its kind in the county). Edward's father and his brothers Christopher and John maintained on Shop-Row what was nick-named "Bunkers' Variety Store." The great assortment of goods kept on hand was illustrated by a wager once made that a goose-yoke could not be found therein ; and it is doubtful if one person in a hundred to- day could recognize the use of such an article were it shown, for it was made by fastening to- gether three stont eight- een inch slats in shape of a triangle, and close- ly attaching it around the neck of a goose-the ends projecting so as to prevent the wearer es- -11 caping through fences from desired enclosures. But the bet was lost, for that very article was discovered, unnsed then for nearly thirty years in the attic now remodeled into the Odd Fellows' lodge rooms and approached then as today through the picturesque entrance here illustrated. Nathan Storrs, an early partner of Gen. B. E. Cook, lived here and for him this was built many years ago, with its gambrel roof, dor- mer windows and quaintly sheltered porch, all guard- ed by magnificently pro- portioned elms. Mrs. Dr. Samuel Fisk and family now own this estate, on King street. It is one of several stately houses in this vicinity that with the change of times are abont changing owners, giving a rather melancholy air of departing glory to the once aristocratic neighborhood. Several magnificent elms stand near this place, and the famous Edwards elm is but a few rods north, on the same street. The bean- tiful Hopkins estate ad- joins the Fisk property. Moses Breck, erected this
A veteran builder, the late very odd shaped honse at the approach to Round Hill for Judge Chas. P. Huntington, who reward- ed Mr. Breck for his faithfulness in the con- struction by a gratuity of $500 above the contract price, something not very often done nowadays and a highly commendable act to perform under the eir- enmistances and no doubt fully merited by the well known and much respect- ed citizen. It is now used by Merritt Clark.
Balconies, Piazzas, Knockers, Etc.
There are many more choice bits of architecture about the city than there is room in this work to il- lustrate, but one of the most remarkable exam- ples is found in the old Henry Bright place, now occupied by Prof. Blodgett. It was built for Henry G. Bowers, one of the first retired New York merchants to be at. tracted by the town's natural beanties and in- duced to locate here, bringing with him large means and extensive city ideas, which are amply shown in his grand old residence substantially standing beneath the ancient sycamores and commanding a magnifi- cent view.
Here is a fine example of the composite order in this capital to one of the four large columns that reach above the second story win- 4 dows overlooking the city and that part of the broad Connecticut valley which is bounded by the twin moun- tains Holyoke and Tom to the south, and to the east the . long line of Hampshire hills pieketed by the sentinel church spires of Shutesbury and Pelham and tower on Mt. Lincoln, while to the northward the eye reaches far out to Mts. Warner, Toby, Sugar Loaf and the grey peaks in Franklin county and sonthern Vermont.
This glimpse of the front balcony shows the same style of architecture, ornamented with many trailing vines and under the cool shade of the tall trees is a tempting spot to the weary toiler up the neighboring hill as he passes by the handsome porch
and a little farther along comes to the quaint old barn quietly settled un- der tall protecting pines -the front fence and it: sturdy gate post orna- mented by a touch of the Greek-fret and sur- mounted by a graceful urn, all add to the pictur- esqueness of this prim- itive estate. Dr. Blod- gett, while greatly im- proving this always handsome estate, has preserved all the finest architectural features of the place, and a view of all sides of the premises is replete with suggestive points of interest to artists, architects and builders.
This sightly structure now occupied by the Clarke Institution for deaf mutes, was erected by Thomas Shepherd about 1810, and cost over $12,- oco, an exceedingly large sum in those days, the outside material being soap-stone sawed four inches thick and !iron
elasped. It was drawn from Middlefield, twenty-six miles away, by ox teams. The roof was formerly four- sided, having stylish rail- ings near the eaves. At the same time two other broth- < ers built similar houses of As wood and brick, when all three together owned the entire erest of Round Hill and these houses stood prominently alone for a long time and established and maintained for eighty years, to that vicinity, a desirable residence locality from which
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PICTURESQUE HAMPSHIRE.
the city derives a benefit today. As one walks down Elm street, he cannot l'ail to detect the odd bits of old styles yet remaining unchanged about the Burnham- Capen school building, although to meet its remarkable success, the necessary moderniz'ng has nearly obliter- ated the early Ionic order which characterized the former house of one of Northampton's most prominent citizens, Hon. Elijah H. Mills, who with Judge Howe and Law- yer Ashmun conducted the celebrated Law School and what is a singular coincidence, that aristocratie mansion on Prospect street, also used today by the same Burnham- Capen school, was original- ly built for this Judge Howe and stands with its deli- cate cream tinted, graceful columns upon a slight emi- neuce and at a proper dis- tance from the public high- way to give, with the tower- ing elms that overshadow the place, an air of dignity which invariably impresses the beholder. Thus these two old time gentlemen were partners in legal in- struction whose early resi- dences are now graced by many a collegiate devotee of the fairer sex. From the portico of this school build- ing a beautiful view of the city, nestling at the foot of the hill below, is obtained.
Aithongh the horse-chestnut is of recent importation
to this city it does not ap- pear amiss as seen while in blossom in connection with the old-fashioned gable- end of this picturesque honse on King street.
In early days brass work was quite expensive and its possessor took much pride in keeping it in good order and placing it where his neighbors should not fail to view it. Cordial hospitality was a leading characteristic then and a friendly visitor was gladly received, hence the knocker and door handle were closely associated with thoughts of welcome, and the brighter they shone the more it por- trayed the pride of the house and the genial reception awaiting therein. It was a latch string that was al- ways ontside, the satisfactory application of which could have been no secret to the neighborhood as the heavy hammer fell upon its corresponding brass plate attached to the door frame and acting like a violin re- sounded through the halls and echoed in the street ..
Some difference now, as we genteelly push the electric button to announce our desired admittance. Our brief space will not allow illustration or description of the varied kinds of front door appliances, for some were very elaborate, with animals' heads, lions, characteristic emblems and monograms, wrought into the device, but any handsomely designed brass knocker (like the one on S. E. Bridgman's house) or costly handle on the front door was considered in form- er days as evidence of re- markable prosperity. A fa- mous local character of the last generation and one of nature's orators once said in town meeting, while dis- enssing the vexed tax ques- tion: "Put your taxes on them what has the brass knockers on their doors! "
The care involved in selecting illustrations for this work may be imagined when we state that although the number in this book is nearly five hundred, the original collection has been largely reduced, hundreds having been thrown out for faults, as well as for lack of space to display them.
THE ENTRANCE TO PARADISE GLEN.
A DRIVE ABOUT TOWN.
Well, indulgent readers, you have waited long for that promised carriage-ride, and so have we, your drivers and would-be entertainers, for the "right of way ;" but in a work of this nature one cannot always have his own way and drive when and where he likes-there are so many matters to be considered and arranged first.
Owing to the mass of illustrations in this book, it is simply impossible-except in a few cases, to arrange text concur- rently with pictures. Any one at all acquainted with the difficulties of com- piling such a work-typographically and otherwise-will understand why this is But as, in a leisurely stroll-the only proper way-we have inspected the curious and artistic features in church and residence architecture, of Northamp- ton, we may now take our carriage-ride about the streets, and though the pictures have considerably ontstripped us, we might as well start out from Paradise Road, where this page supposes us, and we shall soon come back to this starting- point and be able to glance a little ahead By turning to the fourth page onr readers will find where we left off when we returned from that brief trip into the conn- try which was intended sim- ply as an ap- petizer for what was to come. That "Top-most Crag on Mt. Holyoke" is an ideal pic- ture, and the bird therein portrayed is supposed to be emblemat- ic of the wild scene portrayed in poem and prose on that page. Naturally our horse, " Old Dobbin," draws our carriage toward the center of the city, to start witb, and you, fellow-trav- elers with us, are comparative strangers here, or we should not be taking such pains to "show you aronnd." Smith college is but a few rods from our starting-point, and tying our horse for a few moments in front thereof, we ask you to alight and take a view from the college tow- er, which will be the best preparation we know of for the continued ride. This view, looking towards the business part of the city, is the center of the fifth page, and Artist El- bridge Kingsley considers it a work of art. It is an almost perfect reproduction of the photographer's work. The main street lies
directly in front of ns. On the right is the Baptist church and high school building, with the flag thereon flying in triumph. Memorial and the eity halls are visible farther down the street, and then the turn in the highway of course hides from ns the city's main avenue of trade. Mount Holyoke looms up in the background and on the left we have the Edwards church, Catholic church and parsonage in the foreground, with First and Methodist churches, electric light chimney and engine- house tower beyond. The western view from the college tower, over the college grounds, will be found on the eighth page. The state hospital and hoe-shop ruins lie on the left background and some "Paradise" homes a little to the right of the center beyond the college houses.
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