USA > Massachusetts > Suffolk County > Professional and industrial history of Suffolk County, Massachusetts, Volume III > Part 32
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"How many shoes will you take home this trip?"
" As many as I took last year, or more."
" But, why do you buy so freely in these hard times?"
" Because my customers want the goods, and can pay for them."
" How can the Missouri trade pay for shoes when all the rest of the country is bankrupt?"
" I don't know, unless it is because we have got no banks."
Amasa Walker, after that, was known as an "anti-bank " man. Most of the western banks were " wild-cat " institutions in those days.
The pioneers of the Northwest were popular visitors to the Ameri- can House. Bradley & Metcalf, who went out from Spofford & Tiles- ton, of New York, to Milwaukee in 1843. The firm still exists, but W.
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WHOLESALE SHOE TRADE.
H. Metcalf died in April, 1892. Its members are millionaires. Mer- chants from Detroit-giants in those days-came also. Zach Chandler bought dry goods and shoes as early as 1834. A. C. MeGraw, whose continuous career in the shoe trade extends over sixty years. H. P. Baldwin, afterwards governor of Michigan and senator in Congress. Milton Tootle established in St. Joseph, Mo., in 1849. He built the St. Jo Opera House. C. Gotzian, St. Paul. L. L. Warren, of Louis- ville, who went from Boston about 1835. For many years he did the largest shoe business in the South. He built the Warren Memorial Church in that city at a cost of $60,000. W. E. Doggett and M. D. Wells came from Chicago. O. A. Childs, of Cleveland, and J. R. Cum- nings, of Toledo, were buyers from the West. From Cincinnati, Will- iam F. Thorne, John Gates and John Simpkinson. Their purchases, as well as those of H. Childs and H. S. Albree, of Pittsburgh, were sent over the Alleghany Mountains and to Pittsburgh by wagon. The buy- ers from Ohio River towns received their quota by flat boats or steam- ers. Haddock, Hazeltine & Co., J. H. Hendry, and M. M. Paul, of Philadelphia. Chauncey Brooks, James Carey, T. J. Magruder, and others of Baltimore got their shoes by sailing vessels. These were the strong houses of the olden time. Their buyers visited the market once -in the fall-sometimes again in the spring.
These parties congregated in the American House rotunda until 1859. Then, as the hegira to Pearl street was making progress, the owners of real estate at the north end took the alarm and tried to ar- rest the movement. The Codman building, adjoining the American House, had just been erected and the second floor was fitted up as an exchange. It was opened with considerable éclat. Governor Nathaniel P. Banks made a speech. The opposition of Pearl street dealers, how- ever, proved too strong for the movement. The room was cut up and used for offices. It still bears the name of the "Shoe and Leather Ex- change," but it is only that in name.
There was no regular place of meeting for ten years after this, ex- cept at the American House. That place of rendezvous was incon- venient. Most of the dealers were located in Pearl, High and Congress streets. Buyers began to stop at the Revere, Parker's and the Adams House.
In 1869 a plan for the "Boston Union Merchants' Exchange " was formulated. Different mercantile bodies were interested and the board was incorporated. It was proposed to ereet an exchange to accommo-
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SUFFOLK COUNTY.
date all the wholesale merchants of the city, irrespective of the class of goods they dealt in. It was also proposed to build on the spot where the "Old State House " stands, but the project was never carried out.
On the evening of July 3, 1869, a number of members of the trade met at a dinner at the Revere House. As stated in the invitations, it was an initiatory movement towards forming a " Board of Trade," or other similar organization. Francis F. Emery, presided. He forcibly urged the object proposed. Charles A. Grinnell, George W. Merritt, Warren Sawyer, S. R. Spaulding, Eben S. Poor, B. E. Cole, and other merchants spoke in favor of an organization. A committee was appointed to " devise a plan for the formation of an association." The committee reported at a meeting held at No. 98 Pearl street, December 15, 1869. S. R. Spaulding was chairman. They decided to organize, and nominated the following officers: President, William B. Spooner; vice-presidents, William Claflin, Newton; John Cummings, Woburn ; A. C. Mayhew, Milford; Francis Dane, Boston; J. H. Walker, Wor- cester; treasurer, Warren Sawyer. Fifty directors were chosen, and the name New England Shoe and Leather Manufacturers' Association adopted. The first meeting after organization was held at the store of William Claflin & Co., December 29, 1869, at which, on motion of John Cummings, a committee of three was appointed to " nominate a com- mittee of credits, to consist of seven members." Mr. Cummings stated the object " to be to establish a bureau of information as to the commercial standing and solvency of shoe and leather buyers." This was the commencement of the Bureau of Credits.
The name of the organization was altered in February, 1870, by the omission of the word "Manufacturers." Rooms were taken on the first, second and third floor of No. 10 Pearl street, corner of High. There were five hundred members enrolled. Edward P. Bond was the first secretary.
On Saturday, May 14, 1870, the new rooms were opened. There was a banquet in which over four hundred members of the trade par- ticipated. William B. Spooner presided. Addresses were made by prominent merchants.
When the association got into working order the great fire of Novem- ber, 1822, occurred. Temporary quarters were secured at No. 91 State street. Meetings were held there until 1874, when the association re- moved to 124 Federal street. In 1876 the rooms corner of Summer and Bedford streets were rented and occupied till 1883.
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WHOLESALE SHOE TRADE.
Charles S. Ingalls, formerly in the leather trade, had, in the mean time, been appointed secretary of the association and manager of the Bureau of Credits.
In 1883 the association rented spacious rooms on the south side of Bedford, near Kingston street. They remained there until 1890. Steps were then taken to erect a building. A building committee, with ex- Governor William Claflin as chairman, was appointed and the follow- ing Act of Legislature was ratified by an unanimous vote :
The New England Shoe and Leather Association may hold real and personal estate to an amount not exceeding $500,000, and the income thereof shall be devoted exclusively to the purposes of said corporation.
The building is of light-colored briek, with terra cotta trimmings. It occupies a lot of 12,000 feet, with a frontage of 147 feet on Bedford and 64 feet on Kingston street. It is six stories high. The Associ- ation Hall occupies a large central space fronting on Bedford street. The area is about 4,000 feet, and there are telegraph office, electric lights, lavatories, and all the modern conveniences. There are two wide entrances on Bedford and one on Kingston street. The hall on the ground floor is used for the exchange. The building is eligible in respect of light, heat and ventilation. There are three elevators for freight, and two for passengers. The second, third and fourth floors are for offices. The fifth floor is the Bureau of Credits. There is a large and convenient main room, consultation rooms, and directors' room. On the sixth floor are the parlors and dining room of the Bos- ton Trade Club.
The following gentlemen have been presidents of the New England Shoe and Leather Association :
William B. Spooner, 1869 to 18:1. Mr. Spooner began in the leather business about 1833 as clerk for Josiah M. Jones. He bore a high character as a merchant, accumulated riches, and was owner of some fine blocks of stores on Congress street. Mr. Spooner was for many years president of the Massachusetts Temperance Society. He died October 28, 1880, aged seventy-four years.
John Cummings, 1822 to 1843. He was and is a tanner and leather dealer, doing business in Woburn and Boston. Mr. Cummings was commissioner from Massachusetts to the Centennial Exposition at Philadelphia, and one of the jury in the shoe and leather department. He was also president of the Board of Trade. He is president of the Shawmut Bank.
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SUFFOLK COUNTY.
Thomas E. Proctor, 1874 to 1815. Mr. Proctor is now president of the Thos. E. Proctor Leather Company. They own ten or more tan- neries in Massachusetts and Pennsylvania. His father, Abel Proctor, came to Boston and embarked in the leather trade in 1842. Thomas E. Proctor has been connected as partner and overseer of the business since 1852. He has erected and occupied three of the largest leather stores in Boston at various periods since 1842. The stock company of which Mr. Proctor is president was formed in 1887.
Charles A. Grinnell, 1876 to 1879. Mr. Grinnell was formerly a Baltimore shoe merchant, and for many years thereafter a member of the firm of J. F. Dane, Grinnell & Co.
Augustus P. Martin, 1880 to 1885. General Martin has been identi- fied with the shoe trade many years. He was born in Abbott, Piscat- aqua county, Me., November 23, 1835. His father was Pearl Martin, a merchant of Boston. When seven years old, A. P. Martin came to Boston and entered the public school, and later attended a private school at Melrose. He went with Fay & Stone, shoe dealers on Pearl street, as a clerk, about 1854. That year he joined "Cobb's Battery," and was a member in 1861 when he enlisted for three months in the Civil War. In November he re-enlisted; was first lieutenant in the Third Massachusetts Battery, captain in 1862, and was made Chief of Artillery, Ist Division, 5th Corps. In 1863 he was named commander of the brigade formed from the 5th Corps. He fought in thirteen battles, and at Gettysburg held "Little Round Top" against all hostile forces sent to capture the position. He was made colonel by brevet March, 1865. He returned at the close of the war, and was for about four years in the house of Francis Dane & Co. In 1871 he formed the firm of Martin & Skinner, afterwards Martin, Skinner & Fay, and is now the senior of the house of A. P. Martin & Co., with a factory at Hudson. In 1878 Mr. Martin was captain of the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company of Boston. In 1882 Governor Long commissioned him as brigadier-general on his staff, and in 1883 he was elected mayor of Boston.
William Claflin, 1886 to 1892. Ex-Governor Claflin is one of the most prominent citizens of this Commonwealth. He was born in Mil- ford in 1818. His father, Lee Claflin, was a tanner.
William Claflin began to manufacture shoes when eighteen years of age. In 1838 he went to St. Louis and engaged in the hide and leather trade with John How, who had gone there from Massachusetts. Mr.
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1
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WHOLESALE SHOE TRADE.
How afterwards became mayor of St. Louis. In 1851 Mr. Claflin sev- ered this connection and formed the shoe jobbing house of Claflin, Allen & Co. He withdrew from business in St. Louis in 1888. In ad- dition to his St. Louis connection, William Claflin became a partner with his father in the shoe business, in Fulton street, in 1841. With some changes that house continued until 1891, being the oldest shoe house in the city. William Claflin, Coburn & Co. was its recent style. N. P. Coburn, one of the partners, had been with Mr. Claflin since 1843. James A. Woolson entered the house, a boy, in 1846, and be- came a partner in 185%.
Of the political career of William Claflin it is superfluous to speak. It was honorable and useful to the highest degree He was represent- ative from 1849 to 1852; State senator 1860 and 1861, the latter year president of the Senate; lieutenant-governor four years, 1866 to 1869; governor of Massachusetts three years, 1820 to 1822; member of con- gress four years, 1849 to 1883; and four years chairman of the National Republican Committee. He is still connected with the shoe trade, as a partner in the house of Gregory, Shaw & Co.
Francis W. Breed, one of the largest shoe manufacturers in the United States, has extensive factories at Lynn. A more extended notice of him appears in the biographical department.
In addition to the New England Association, that embraces all the manufacturers in these States, there are the following local Boston clubs :
The Narragansett Shoe and Leather Club is a convivial coterie. They go down to Narragansett Bay every summer for a pleasure ex- cursion. In 1891 they celebrated their fifteenth anniversary.
The Leather Manufacturers' Association dates from 1886. The- ophilus King was the first president.
The Boston Shoe Associates was founded in 1886. Franklin Adams was the first president. The club is restricted to fifty members. At the death of one of the associates, each member pays $10, and the gross amount is presented to the wife or nearest relative of the deceased.
The Boston Boot and Shoe Travelers' League dates from 1884.
The Sheepskin Club of Boston, as its name imports, is an organiza- tion of members of the sheepskin trade. A meeting and banquet is held in January of each year. The club dates from 1879.
In 1888 the Boston Boot and Shoe Club held its first meeting. Seven banquets occur during the year, at which topics of trade or gen-
42
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SUFFOLK COUNTY
eral interest are chosen for discussion. A "Ladies' Night " is held yearly, at which addresses are made by women. John J. Henry was the first president of the club. He was succeeded by Francis F. Em- ery. F. H. Nazro was elected president in 1891.
The Boston Trade Club was formed in 1888. Thomas E. Proctor was the first president. He declined the office the next year. Horace W. Wadleigh was elected, with Frank B. Converse as treasurer. Mr. Converse is president for 1892. The objects of the Trade Club are social. In the fine dining room in the Association building visitors connected with the trade are entertained, and most of the members dine there regularly.
The Boston Leather Associates organized in 1885, with Gordon Plum- mer of the Boston Leather Company as president.
Notes given for the sales of shoes, or to raise money for purchases, have been bought and sold ever since the shoe business has become an important industry. The earliest dealer was Gilbert Dean, who had an office under the "Old State House." There was a law at that time against all interest above six per cent., but it was evaded by adding an extra charge made for exchange. Tisdale & Hewins, who kept a leather store on Long Wharf, were dealers in shoe notes. Mr. Tisdale was a director in the New England Bank, and a great deal of such paper went through that institution. John Cushing was a well known note broker thirty or forty years ago, and W. F. Lawrence still later. During the war the government issued certificates to pay contractors for furnishing shoes and other equipage. These certificates were numbered and re- deemed in regular order. By far the greater portion of the shoe con- tracts were placed in Massachusetts and note brokers did a good busi- ness in loaning money on them. They were taken for security for a note for about ten per cent. less than their face value and two per cent. a month charged for doing the business. Before the war shoes were sold on eight months' credit. From 1861 to 1867 the terms were gen- erally cash, thirty days. Gradually more time was given and notes were again taken-as in ante-bellum times-" payable to our own or- der," and on six months' time. These could be sold, if necessary, "without recourse." At the commencement of the season brokers notified their customers at what rate and how much of their paper they could sell. These one name notes of shoe and leather promisors can always be placed on favorable terms. Note brokers keep lists of paper they have, and the buying or selling rate. Manufacturers can secure
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WHOLESALE SHOE TRADE.
themselves against loss by disposing of such notes as they may take in this way. The note brokers disposed of $50,000,000 of such obligations in 1880, and $65,000,000 in 1890.
CHAPTER V.
Trade Statistics-The Great Fire-Labor Organizations-The Shoe District of Boston-Shoe Towns.
IN 1860 Essex county produced shoes to the value of $14,500, 000; Wor- cester, $9,500,000; and Plymouth, $9,250,000. In the State, $46,440, - 209 worth; of these, $4,867,399 were made in Lynn, and $4,130,500 in Haverhill. The largest production of any one establishment was at North Brookfield, $750,000.
It is estimated that the cost of making shoes by machinery is less than three-fifths as much as by hand work. The labor is only about fifty per cent. Use of buildings and machinery, say ten per cent., makes sixty per cent., or three-fifths. This estimate varies in different localities. The saving on cheap shoes is ordinarily more than on other grades.
An elucidation of the relative advantages in using machines is fully set forth in the following statistics of Massachusetts shoe industry at different periods for half a century.
In 1845 there were made in this Commonwealth 20,896,312 pairs of shoes; value, $14,799, 140; hands employed, 45,877. This was one and fifty-two-hundredths pairs per capita for each working day. No ma- chinery of any kind was used.
In 1855 there were manufactured 45,066,828 pairs of shoes; value, $37,501,724 ; hands employed, 71,827. Each person produced 579 pairs that year, an average of one and ninety-three-hundredths pairs daily. Sewing machines for stitching had recently been introduced. These were used for fitting the uppers and stitching the linings.
In 1865 there were made 31,870,381 pairs of shoes; value, $56,113, - 987; hands employed, 52,821. This was the year the war closed and business was badly disarranged. The product was small. The value per pair greater than it ever was before, or has ever been since that time. Two pairs a day was the product of each person. Some ma-
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SUFFOLK COUNTY.
chinery was used, but work-people were not proficient in its applica- tion.
In 1845 there were manufactured 59, 262,866 pairs of shoes; value, $89,315,942; hands employed, 48,090. Full sets of machinery were used. The average yearly product of each employee was 1,2423/4 a year, or 6% pairs daily. Almost twice as many shoes were made in 18:5 as in 1865, while 4,631 less persons were employed. The United States census of 1820 gave the following statistics for Massachusetts shoe trade: Number of factories, 2,392; hands employed, 54, 831 ; wages paid, $27, 265, 283; valtte of product, $88,399,583.
The total was 78,512, 194 pairs of boots, shoes and slippers made that year. Massachusetts produced 5734 per cent., and New England 67-1% per cent. of all the boots and shoes made in the United States that year.
In 1885 there were made in the State 92, 485, 400 pairs of shoes ; value, $119,049,000; hands employed, 64,858. Each employee made 1,426 pairs, an average of 43 pairs daily. Lynn and Haverhill turned out that year 31, 124, 320 pairs with 12,500 workpeople, an average of 2, 121 12 pairs yearly, or seven pairs a day for each worker. The wages paid averaged $7.75 a week for each employee.
The United States census for 1880 furnishes these statistics for the Massachusetts shoe trade for that year:
BOOTS AND SHOES (FACTORY INDUSTRY).
Number of factories
982
Value of all materials
$59,906,773
Capital
$21,098,133
Pairs boots made, including women's
Hands employed
61,651
and children's lace and button
Wages paid $24,875,106
23,018,813
Sides sole leather used 3,852,455
Pairs of shoes made 55,493,381
Sides upper used
11,754,766
Total value of product $95,900,510
Other leather, pounds
22,632,639
The report of the Massachusetts Bureau of Statistics of Labor for 1891 contains table of cost of production as follows:
PERCENTAGE OF COST IN PAIR OF SHOES.
Stock
69.29
Taxes .16 I 1
Wages
27.65
Repairs
.15
Salaries
1.23
I
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1
I
1 .08
Freight
.58
Other expenses
1 .08
Rent
.56
Insurance
.22
Per cent
100
.
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
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1
1
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1
1
1
1
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1
1
1 1
1
1
1
.
1
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New equipment
1
1
1
333
WHOLESALE SHOE TRADE.
.
A comparative table of the shoe industry for each decade, from 1845 to 1885, was:
CLASSIFICATION.
1845
1955
1865
1875
ISS5
Number of establishments
206
2,638
2,366
Capitalinvested
$6,574,904 $23, 196,717
$49,086,164
$70,178,677
Persons employed
45,877
.827
52,821
48,000
64,858
Wages paid.
$17,580,410
$26,916,608
Motive power (horse power
4,630
10,4357%
Value of goods made
$14,799,140
$37.501,725
$35,741,393
$83,153,755
$114,729,533
The value of all machinery in shoe factories in 1885 was $4,513,370. In rubber factories $1,695,523. Wages ranged at $10 to $20 for males and $6 to $12 a week for females, but 2,305 males and 151 females made more than $20 a week. Ten hours was an average day's labor.
At the commencement of the war, in 1861, a great many manufac- turers failed. Collections South were stopped. Francis Dane was a prominent manufacturer whose indebtedness was principally in that section. He went through the panic unscathed. Mr. Dane had great faith in his customers, and they proved themselves men of probity. At the time war was declared, Gardner, Carlton & Co., of Richmond, Va., tried to remit to him a payment for a lot of shoes, and for that purpose purchased a bill of exchange on London for £200. This was sent by mail, but communication being suddenly cut off, the letter went to the western section of the Confederacy, and was returned to them after the lapse of more than a year. They were, however, deter- mined to forward it, and in 1863, upon the occasion of the coming North of Mr. Chamberlain, one of the partners, the bill of exchange was sewed in his overcoat. He got it safely through, although he was thoroughly searched by the Confederate and Union officials. When he gave it into the hands of Mr. Dane, its value had increased nearly threefold, from rise in premium on gold. The extra amount placed to the credit of the senders was of great advantage to them after the close of the war.
In April, 1865, a great outdoor meeting was held in Pearl street. Several members of the Southern shoe trade addressed the assemblage. Amicable relations had been restored, and they were again in the shoe district as customers. Great efforts had been made to cancel the in- debtedness. A few had saved some cotton; others possessed gold hoarded for four years. A good proportion of Southern shoe merchants paid a dividend; some settled in full. A majority of the jobbers were
.
$17,398,629
$34,313,421
Value of stock used
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SUFFOLK COUNTY.
in a position to continue business. At the meeting referred to, a few of them created a sensation by telling how they had sent their boys north at the commencement of the struggle, and that " not one of them ever fired on the old flag."
On the night of November 9 (Saturday), 1872, the " great fire " in Boston occurred. The entire business portion was burned. Massive granite and marble warehouses, with the greater portion of their con- tents were destroyed. The fire broke out at the corner of Summer and Kingston streets, burned over the territory to Broad, and north to Milk street, where the open site of the post-office, then being erected, stayed its progress.
The losses of the shoe and leather trade were about as follows:
Leather
$ 5,650,000
Boots and shoes
3,800,000
Boots and shoes, rubber
950,009
Findings
600,000
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1
1
1
1
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Total
$11,000,000
1
1
1
I
1
1
4
1
1
Buildings owned by members of the trade $ 1,250,000
About half of this amount was recovered from the insurance com- panies. The comparatively small loss of the findings dealers was due to the fact that one large house had recently moved to Hanover street, and all the others were at the head of Pearl or in Milk street, and had ample time to get goods away before the conflagration reached them. Every team and wagon in the city was pressed into the service to save merchandise in the district. A great many shoe goods were stored in Quincy Block, at the foot of State street. A fire broke out there a few days later, but fortunately did not do much damage.
Some of the buildings burned belonged to members of the trade. E. B. Phillips, a dealer in tanner's oils, lost twenty-two stores. B. G. Boardman, hide and leather dealer, owned a fine block. Frederick Jones and his brother Josiah M. owned several stores. Thomas E. Proctor, William B. Spooner, Henry Poor, William Claflin, were among the property owners. They rebuilt immediately, putting up much finer structures than before. Frank L. Fay was the first to build on High street. Stephen Dow put up a fine block a little further down the street. David L. and John G. Webster erected their spacious store. The streets in the burned district were straightened and widened. Ninety acres of flats were filled in and built upon at the foot of Con- gress street.
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WHOLESALE SHOE TRADE.
The second great fire in the shoe and leather district occurred in 1893. At 4.25 p.M. on Friday, March 10, of that year, an alarm was rung in from the ill-fated box, No. 52, corner of Summer and Lincoln streets, Boston. On the arrival of the firemen a brisk blaze was in progress in the magnificent Ames building, corner of Lincoln and Essex streets. The fire broke out in the second floor, occupied by Horace Partridge & Co., dealers in toys, notions and small wares, and so rapidly did it spread that in less than ten minutes the entire struc- ture was enveloped in a sheet of flame, and in an incredibly short time was a mass of ruins, and the walls had fallen into the street. In less than ten minutes after the flames broke out, the Farlow building, on the opposite side of Lincoln street, took fire, and a second and third alarm was sounded, calling the entire department, and also summoning aid from Newton, Cambridge, Salem, Lynn, Somerville and other places. The Farlow building was completely destroyed, and the fire communicated with the adjoining block, which was soon reduced to ruins. Such was the intensity of the heat, and so rapid the spread of the fire, that none of the occupants of the buildings were enabled to save anything. When the fire reached the fourth floor of the Ames building, occupied by the Redpath Bros. Manufacturing Co., shoe manufacturers, E. W. Redpath and his brother, Leonidas H. Redpath, had no chance to escape by the stairway, and were compelled to jump from the windows. E. W. Redpath escaped with some bruises, but his brother received injuries which proved fatal a few minutes afterward. Two or three others were killed, and a large number of men and girls who were compelled to jump from the windows were seriously injured. Many of them were at once conveyed to the Emergency Hospital, but before their injuries could be attended to, the hospital took fire and all the patients were hastily removed.
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