USA > Massachusetts > Worcester County > Royalston > The history of the town of Royalston, Massachusetts > Part 5
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"Ah that such beauty varying in the light
Of living nature, cannot be portrayed
By words, nor by the pencil's silent thrill;
But is the property of Him alone
Who hath beheld it, noted it with care And in His mind recorded it with love."
The largest streams that water the territory of Royalston are three brooks that have their sources in the wild regions of the northerly part of Royalston, and in Southern New Hamp- shire and flow from north to south through the town into Millers River.
Priest Brook, the most easterly one, derives its name from Joseph Priest. One of the first grants of Royalston territory was located on both sides of this beautiful little river, and was given in consideration of Priest having opened a half-way house
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SCENERY
between Worcester and Charlestown No. 4, and extending its hospitalities to whoever might pass that way. Governor Bullock in his address refers to the grant and the Brook as follows:
"The name attached to one of these grants has become a part of the local geography and daily life of the town. Priest, who received three hundred acres as a recognition of his loyalty in extending the hospitality of his half-way house near the easterly line of the town to all those who passed that way to and from the French wars, will ever live in the beautiful river which bears bis name. And so long as the calm flow of its waters shall continue, so long shall live the memories of that service which associates your town with the pioneers and the rangers, with the Lily of France, with Louisburg, with that fidelity to the crown of our king in those days which I cannot but like, with those wars for our royal George's which prepared and educated our fathers afterwards to overwhelm all kings in the Revolution."
The name attached to the most central stream is supposed to have been bestowed complimentary to William Lawrence, a Commissioner authorized to sell and convey the township to the proprietors. In 1753 the second meeting of the proprietors was held at the Bunch of Grapes tavern in Boston, and a pre- viously appointed committee reported that they had found a site for the erection of mills on Lawrence Brook, one mile north of the north line of "Pequoig", now Athol. This was ten years before a settlement was made in the township.
The third of these rivers waters a deep valley running nearly across the town about a mile west of the Lawrence and is known in the proprietors records only as Long Pond; its first appear- ance with the present name of Tully is found recorded on the town book in 1770, five years later after the town was incorpora- ted. The source from which this name is derived seems to have been a subject of much inquiry by antiquarians and writers. Rev. Samuel Clark in his centennial address delivered at Athol in 1850, gives a tradition that was commonly accepted for a long time, that the name was derived from an Indian's dog named Tully which in following a deer drove the animal over the meadows into these waters, and while attempting to sieze his prey, was struck a stunning blow by the fore foot of the deer and held under the water until poor Tully was drowned.
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HISTORY OF ROYALSTON
The late James M. Crafts, a historical writer living in Orange at one time, cites the names of persons living in Boston during the latter part of the 17th century by the name of Tully, and also says that, "It is more than probable that some one engaged in some capacity with the surveyors, when this section was laid out, for some reason now unknown, gave the mountain the name of Tully, and so that attaches to the brook. The author of this history while writing a historical sketch of the early Methodists of Athol and Orange a few years ago, found the name of Jemima Tully recorded on the first class paper of the Metho- dist church dated Aug. 5, 1795, which shows that a family of that name must at one time have been residents of that section.
The gorges and waterfalls of Royalston are finely described by Professor Edward Hitchcock in his Geology of Massachusetts published in 1841 as follows:
"There are at least three waterfalls connected with deep gorges in Royalston, that are well worth the attention of those who are fond of wild natural scenery. About a mile west of the meeting house and center of the town, is a deep valley running north and south, nearly across the town. Near the meeting house is a pond which empties itself into this valley by plunging rapidly down a steep declivity which must be eight hundred or a thousand feet high. It then empties into another large pond, or rather a remarkable expansion of a small tributary of Millers River. At one part of the descent of the brook above named, it falls at least two hundred feet by several leaps within a distance of a few rods, forming several very beautiful cascades. Here the original forests have not been disturbed. The trees over-hang the murmuring waters, half concealing the stream, while broken trunks are plunged across it in all positions.
In the extreme northwest part of the town, on the farm of Calvin Forbes, a gorge and cascade exist of still greater interest: one of the finest indeed in the state. The stream is not more than ten feet wide at the spot, but it descends forty-five feet at a single leap, into a large basin, which from its top had been excavated by the erosion of the waters. The sides, to the hight of 50 or 60 feet, are formed of solid rocks; now retreating and now projecting; crowned at their summits by trees. Many of these lean over the gulf, or have fallen across it; so that upon the whole, the scene is one of great wildness and interest."
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SCENERY
Professor Hitchcock suggested that this beautiful waterfall be named The Royal Cascade, partly in reference to the name of the town, and partly in reference to its royal character, but
FORBES FALLS
it has been more generally known as Forbes Fal's. At one time the proprietor of the property improved the surroundings by building a railing around the falls, with a flight of stairs to go below them, and seats, tables and swings in the grove adjoining and the place was visited by thousands every season. For many years an annual town picnic was held there with bands of music, and they were great gala days for the surrounding towns for miles around.
In regard to the third of these water falls Prof. Hitchcock says: "Two miles south of Royalston center, on the road leading to Athol, is another cascade on a larger stream. Its width in- deed, must be as much as twenty-five feet and the depth con- siderable. In a short distance the water here descends at several successive leaps, as much as two hundred feet between high walls of gneiss and granite. Towards the upper part of the descent,
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HISTORY OF ROYALSTON
several mills are erected, but a small part only of the water power is employed. Below the mills, the stream passes into the woods; and towards the lowest part of the descent, we get a single view of two falls of about twenty-five feet each."
Prof. Hitchcock suggested that this might be denominated the Republican Cascade, but it has been known for many years
DOANE'S FALLS
as Doane's Falls. Situated on the little stream called the Law- rence, and near the road from Royalston to Athol it is the most accessible to the traveler of any of the Royalston water falls.
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MINERALS
OLD ELM ON ATHOL ROAD
This grand old Elm with its wide spreading branches has stood as a sentinel for over a century. It was set out by John Kendall and Moses Walker, and is to-day a grand monument to their memory. The tree was at one time sold to Seth Holman
OLD ELM ON ATHOL ROAD
by Dea. Anger who lived in the house opposite the tree, and Mr. Holman came to cut it down and use it in his manufacturing establishment, but because of the pleas of the Deacon's wife the tree was spared.
Another majestic elm stands by the old Silas Hale house in South Royalston. This was set out by Stephen Hale in 1790.
MINERALS
Regarding the minerals of Royalston Professor Edward Hitchcock says: "The region in the north part of the State embracing the towns of Royalston, Athol, Orange, Erving and Warwick appears to me to promise very much to one who has leisure carefully to investigate its mineralogy. I feel as if the exploration had yet only begun."
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HISTORY OF ROYALSTON
The most important mineral found in Royalston is Beryl of which Mr. Hitchcock says: "The recent discovery of a rich locality of this mineral in South Royalston, enables me to place it as the first and most abundant of all the gems of Massachusetts. The specimens in the State Collection exhibit it in its natural State, as well as cut and polished by the lapidary. When set in gold, it is often much richer in appearance than the common beryl, that goes by the name of aquamarine. Its color often approaches nearer to the genuine emerald, though some speci- mens have the peculiar color of aquamarine. Sometimes though rarely, the color is a yellowish green, very much like the chry- solite. Hundreds of specimens have already been obtained from this spot; and the prospect is, that a vast many more may be obtained. They occur in a vein of coarse granite, ten or twelve feet wide, traversing gneiss; and the purest beryls are in the quartz. It ought, however, to be remarked, that only a few of the specimens are free enough from fissures to be advanta- geously cut. Yet considering the large number of fine. cabinet specimens that have been, and probably can be obtained from there, I apprehend that no locality of beryl hitherto discovered in this country, can compare with this. My attention was first directed to it by Alden Spooner, Esq., of Athol, who generously furnished me with several fine specimens." He says further in regard to this locality: "Probably since that time one or two thousand specimens have been got out by myself and others; and I hope the locality is not yet exhausted; although as the excava- tion is now several feet deep much more labor is required to obtain them." This description was made by Dr. Hitchcock three- quarters of a century ago in his report as State Geologist pub- lished in 1841.
Regarding the value of this gem, we might state that the beryl is the name of a family, and the aquamarine is one of the family, the golden beryl and the white or colorless are less valuable commercially while the emerald is the most valuable of all gems known, being several times the value of the diamond on a basis of purity and cleanness. The emerald and the aqua- marine are the more valuable and the latter is frequently called by those "up" in mineralogical lines, and gem experts as "pre- cious beryls."
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MINERALS
Regarding the early history of the first finding and working of the Beryl Hill mine in the northeast part of the town, on the farm formerly owned by C. W. Bowker of Worcester, we have not much information. The mine is now owned by Mr. F. H. C. Reynolds of Boston, who has owned it for several years and has worked it each year to a somewhat limited extent, for scien- tific and pleasure purposes.
Mr. Reynolds has satisfied himself that it is a wonderful property. and knows that it produces an exceedingly beautiful quality of the variety of beryl known as the aquamarine. He says that he has never seen such brilliant gems from any part of the world while the color is exquisite. He has mined hundreds of them, and disposed of some of the good sized stones as high as a hundred dollars apiece, and has some in his collection that have been valued by experts as worth three hundred dollars.
Mr. Reynolds describes the beryls on his place as being found without exception in what we term "bunches" that is, they appear generally in groups of crystals. Once during the last summer (1915) he opened probably a hundred crystals in a space not more than three feet square at the most, and he says that it was a wonderful sight. He has many crystals from that find, and they have been greatly admired by some of the most expert mineralogists of this country.
Mr. Reynolds is an expert on gems and has several properties in other states and says in regard to Royalston beryls that as to quality, beauty and brilliancy it will be a very difficult under- taking to find their equal.
The United States Report of 1914 devotes a page to the des- cription of this mine and the crystals that have been found there it says: "Beryl of especially fine quality has been mined at Beryl Hill, 2 1-2 miles N. 68 degrees E. of Royalston, Mass., by F. H. C. Reynolds of Boston." After further describing Beryl Hill the openings that have been made, the geological structure of the mine, and other minerals found there the Report concludes with the following: "The Beryl Hill gems range in color from light to dark aquamarine, fine blue, yellowish green, to golden. Many very fine bluish-green stones have been cut and among those seen was a table-cut stone of 13 3-4 carats. The blue beryls of better quality are rarely excelled by those from other localities in brilliancy or beauty of color. Among cut
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HISTORY OF ROYALSTON
gems of this quality a 12 1-2 carat brilliant cut stone was especial- ially beautiful."
Among other minerals that Dr. Hitchcock found in Royalston were: allanite of which he found a large number of crystals in a bowlder of gneiss on the road from South Royalston to Templeton; this mineral is essentially an oxide of cerium and all the external character correspond to the allanite from Greenland: Green stone may be found in a train of blocks in the northwest part of the town. Of Mica, he says, "the most perfect crystals of mica which I have found in Massachusetts occur at the Beryl locality in South Royalston. The crystals are usually primary form, viz., an oblique rhombic prism, and they vary in size from half an inch to two or three inches in length. Another mineral found there, much more rare is Crich- tonite, or Titanic Iron, which is in distinct crystals with the side and angles truncated. The crystals of feldspar at that locality were sometimes of remarkable size.
Among the other minerals besides beryl, the United States Report mentions, muscovite in crystals up to three inches across, a little biotite, black toumaline, and dark red garnets.
INDIANS AND WILD ANIMALS
No history of the early days of a New England town would be complete without some stories of Indians or wild beasts and game. We have been unable to find any reliable records from which to make a good Indian story, while no hill, lake or stream perpetuates the history of the Red Man. Writers of half a century ago after making diligent search found nothing more than a few probable stone arrow heads, pestles, etc., of their handiwork, and some uncertain traditions of Redskins, seen among the brakes and alders along the margins of our ponds and streams, while Governor Bullock in his address at the Centennial Anniversary says: "A precinct that bears no vestiges of the aborigines and is in this respect so unlike the more southerly towns, which had half a century of life crowded with Indian traditions, that I can not find that those original lords ever lighted a pipe or a fire here." James Babcock, who was one of the early settlers of Royalston near the George Woodbury place, was taken captive by the Indians while living in Athol in 1746 and was carried to Canada; on his return after living near Silver
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INDIANS AND WILD ANIMALS
Lake in Athol for several years he removed to Royalston being among the early settlers.
But if the first settlers of Royalston had no Indians to con- tend with they were abundantly supplied with bears, wolves, and other wild animals. Bears crossed the woodman's path, and alarmed the berry pickers in the clearings, while they feloniously made way with sheep and calves from the pastures, and broke into the folds by night taking their fill of choice mutton and pork. Wolves were more numerous and dangerous than the bears, though they soon left the town. The early settlers used to see them in the evening twilight, stealing abroad, and in the hours of breaking day returning to their coverts, generally without noise and several of them together, following each other in single file. In the night, however, they held high carnival on the open meadows, and during the winter upon the frozen ponds. Dea. Enos Metcalf, who lived on the high land just west of Long Pond, used to describe their howling as frightful. Upon visiting their rendezvous the next day, the grass or snow as the case might be, would be trodden as though a flock of sheep had been folded over the night on the spot. Woe to man or beast abroad unprotected in the night. The wolves were almost sure to be upon their track and hunt them down before morning.
Jonathan Bosworth, Jr., one of the early settlers in that part of the town near the Winchendon line is said to have had a lively time with the wolves one night, which he long remembered. He was set upon by a pack of them as he was returning to his home through the woods one night. He had with him a lighted torch, and as they pressed upon him, he would turn and rush among them with his flaming pine knot, scattering them in wild confusion. He continued this manoeuver till he reached a place of safety. According to one version of the story he took refuge upon a huge boulder from the top of which he hurled defiance upon his baffled and howling foes, till daylight admon- ished them to disperse. The wolves even made bold, when pressed with hunger, to make their attacks in the broad day- light. The late Benoni Peck, Esq., related an instance of this kind. His mother, her husband being absent one day, and she while engaged in her domestic affairs indoors, heard their first and only cow bellowing as though in affright, or mortal pain. She shut up her four little ones in the house, armed herself with a pitchfork and hastened to the scene of disturbance, where she
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HISTORY OF ROYALSTON
found the cow cornered among some logs, and a wolf rendirg her. Mrs. Peck rushed upon the ferocious creature, employing both lungs and fork with a will. The wolf beat a reluctant re- treat and the cow, though badly mangled, was saved by the hero- ism of her mistress. Many a poor beast that strayed from its home or pasture, and failed of being hunted up by its owner, paid the forfeit of its temerity with its life. Royalston like many other towns, offered a bounty on wolves. We find on the early town records the following action taken at a town meeting held Nov. 27, 1780: Art. 5-"Voted that any person belonging in this town that shall kill a wolf, shall be entitled to 40 shillings per head, old money, provided he kill said wolf or wolves within two miles of the meeting house in Royalston. Voted to allow Mr. Thomas Beal 3 pounds, old way, for killing wolves some time back."
Wildcats, catamounts and panthers, were often heard in the woods, and were sometimes seen and killed.
The Mt. Monadnock region was the stronghold of wild beasts and the cattle pens of Southern New Hampshire and Northern Worcester County were raided by these denizens of the woods and mountains. The children were employed to watch the herds by day and at night they were driven into strong enclosures. The catamount was an especially formidable and dangerous beast to encounter, and there were occasional instances of the shooting or taking of these dangerous animals. Rev. J. F. Norton in his sketch of Athol in Jewett's History of Wor- cester County, tells of a catamount, the last of his race, which was taken in a powerful steel trap, near the foot of Mt. Monad- nock, which measured thirteen feet and four inches from the nose to the end of the tail and for its stuffed skin the proprietors of the Boston Museum are said to have paid forty-five dollars.
The bears were not considered as dangerous as the wolves and catamounts, but were a great source of annoyance because of their visits to the sheep folds and calves pens. Various modes were adopted for punishing these marauders. At first there were traps made of logs, and after a while iron traps were used. Bear hunts were frequently organized, and the common enemy was hunted down in this way.
The last bear hunt in Royalston took place in August, 1829, and was graphically described by the late Daniel Davis in a
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WILD ANIMALS
newspaper article about eighteen years ago. A wild beast had been seen by two or three in a wild territory lying southeast of what is known as the "city." The next day a bear hunt was organized and the people rallied from all quarters, hunters from North Orange rendering assistance with dogs and guns. The wild woodland territory was surrounded as well as the number of men would permit. The dogs were let loose and opened in the forenoon upon the wild animals' tracks when forth speeds the bear and gives his pursuers a lively chase, over rocks and ledges, through tangled swamps beneath black pine and spoon wood thickets and over huge tree trunks scattered around, until about the time of the setting sun reports of guns are heard, and the hunters rally to the spot, where shots from well aimed guns in the hands of Cyrus Davis and James Buffum brought the wild beast to the ground. One of the hunters, Adriel White, with less caution than curiosity, ventured too near the infuriated animal and was siezed by one leg that would have been badly mangled had not Mr. Buffum dealt a deadly blow with his gun upon the bear's head that saved Mr. White the use of all his limbs. The carcass was conveyed to the "city", weighed and skinned and found to be in a lean condition, although its weight was over two hundred pounds. The next day many of the hunters gathered at the "city" and a season of joy and gladness was passed; bear meat was cooked and eaten at Landlord Buf- fum's tavern and some strong drink disappeared with it. Dr. Stephen Bacheller had the bear's skin dressed and used it as a robe many years in his one-seated vehicle.
Game abounded in the forests, while the ponds and streams afforded good fishing. Deer were common, and many an antler graced the cabins of the settlers while their larders could frequently boast the savory venison. Wild turkeys were for a long time met with in flocks of twenty, fifty or one hundred. Asahel Davis shot in 1808 a wild turkey gobbler that weighed 20 pounds. The streams were once frequented by beavers as is shown by the remains of their dams.
CHAPTER VI
CHURCHES OF ROYALSTON
It has been said that, "a History of any New England town without an ecclesiastical chapter would surely be like the play of Hamlet with the part of Hamlet left out." And this is especially true as regards Royalston, for the Church is the foundation upon which was built the characters of the men and women who have made the History of Royalston illustrious as they have gone out into the uttermost parts of the earth carrying the light of the Gospel and Education to the people of all races and color. Among the first men to subscribe their names to the Church Covenant were the Moderator and Clerk of the town, the three Selectmen, the Assessors and the constable. Vital Godliness was so honored as not only to be held in general respect but also by the blessing of God to bring into Church fellowship, at an early period in the history of the town, leading; and influential members of almost all the families in town. Religion won such a position and influence among the Fathers of the town that Royalston had a reputation abroad for the decided and consistent religious character, the intelligence, stability and moral worth of her people as a whole.
FIRST CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH
In 1763, only one year after the permanent settlement of the town began, the contract was made for the building of a meeting house, and it was so far completed the next year (1764) as to be opened for public worship. This first house of worship was provided at the expense of the proprietors of the township, and, though destitute of external pretensions or imposing internal appointments, for nearly a third of a century it was to the fathers "none other but the house of God." Hon. Isaac Royal paid one-eighth of the cost of the meeting house besides his own assessment as one of the company; he also gave the church and congregation worshiping therein "a handsome folio Bible, for promoting the decent, honorable and advantageous
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FIRST CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH
reading of the Holy Scriptures in the public exercises of Divine Worship."
Rev. E. W. Bullard in his historical address on the One Hundredth Anniversary of the Church says: "To what extent, and by what method, public worship was here maintained, from the opening of the first meeting house till the town became incor- porated it is now impossible to ascertain. Since the latter event, however, down to 1831, when the town and parish became distinct, these matters were all attended to in open town meeting, and consequently have their place on the Records of the town.
The town voted, assessed and appropriated, all monies required for maintaining public worship, chose and instructed committees to secure candidates, or occasional supplies, elected warden, tithingmen and choristers, and at first, without, and afterwards in conjunction with the church, invited the aid of neighboring churches, for council on their ecclesiastical affairs. Thus we find among the records of a town meeting, that the town appointed a "day of fasting and prayer to seek the blessing of Almighty God on us in bringing forward this new town, and, in special, in gathering and setting a church, and, in due time, giving us a pastor after his own heart."
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