USA > Michigan > Genesee County > Genesee County, Michigan, rural directory, 1919 > Part 5
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10-14 days, repeat.
Use lice remedies for lice. For striped bugs. protect young plants with a cover of mosquito netting over each hill. Or keep vines well dusted with a mixture of air-slaked lime, to- bacco dust and a little Paris green.
When fruit is one- half grown, Bor-
Dig out borers. Cut down and burn trees affected with "yellows."
deaux.
NOTE :- It is safer always to use half- strength Bordeaux on peach foliage.
After blossoms have fallen. Bordeaux-ar- senical mixture.
8-12 days later, re- peat.
Look out for "fire blight." Cut out and burn blighted branches whenever seen.
days later, repeat.
10-20 days later, Bordeaux.
Cut out black knot whenever seen.
Repeat for blight, rot and insects.
To prevent scabby tubers, treat the seed with formalin before planting.
Repeat in 10-14 days.
Hand-pick tomato worms.
mixture is a fungicide as well as a scale cure, and if it is med the first carly Bordewer spray may be omitted.
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10-14
Repeat.
GENESEE COUNTY
A. F. ROSKA & SONS
SWARTZ CREEK, MICH.
Producers of Fine Comb and Extracted Honey
We mant to supyly your honey wants and we want to help you reduce the high cost of living by divid- ing the middle man's profit with you.
All honey made by bees is honey of course, but there is a big difference in quality, just as a big, red, juicy apple is better than the common kind.
We leave our honey on the hives until thoroughly ripened by the bees; this makes a rich, thick and delicious honey, the kind you will want more of.
A generous sample will be sent on receipt of ten cents, which will be deducted from first order.
Usually we can fill orders about the fifteenth of August. Shipping orders must be not less than sixty pounds if extracted is wanted and a two dozen section case for comb honey. Orders for any amount filled at apiary, one cent per pound less if you bring your own containers.
Buy your Shorthorn Bulls
from THE LONE ELM FARM
Visitors Welcome
BELL PHONE: 96-F4 FLUSHING
ADDRESS: MILTON J. SHEAR R. F. D. 5 Flint, Mich.
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RURAL DIRECTORY
The Iceless Refrigerator
An inexpensive refrigerator, or milk cooler, consists of a wooden frame cov- ered with Canton flannel. Wicks made of the same material as the covering rest in a pan of water on top of the refrigerator, allowing the water to seep down the sides. When evaporation takes place the heat is taken from the inside, consequently lowering the temperature. On dry, hot days a temperature of 50 degrees can be obtained in this refriger- ator. The following description will aid in the construction of this device:
Make a screened case three and a half feet high, with the other dimensions twelve by fifteen inches. Place two mov- able shelves in the frame, twelve to fif- teen inches apart. Use a pan twelve inches square on the top to hold the water, and where the refrigerator is to be used indoors have the whole thing standing in a large pan to catch any drip. The pans and case may be painted white, allowed to dry, and then enameled.
A covering of white Canton flannel should be made to fit the frame. Have the smooth side out and fasten the cov- ering on the frame with buttons or hooks, arranged so that the door may be opened without unfastening them. This can be done by putting one row of hooks on the edge of the door near the latch and the other just opposite the opening, with the hem on each side ex- tending far enough to cover the crack at the edge of the door, keeping out the warm, outside air and retaining the cooled air. The covering will have to be hooked around the top edge also.
Two double strips, one-half the width of each side, should be sewed on the top of each side and allowed to extend over about three inches in the pan of water. The bottom of the covering should ex- tend to the lower edge of the case. Place
the refrigerator in a shady place where air will circulate around it freely. If buttons and buttonholes are used, the cost should not exceed eighty-five cents.
Testing Seed Corn
Every ear of corn,
whether old or new, should be tested. Now is the time to make the tests before the rush of spring
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"rag doll" method is the cheapest, simplest way of testing.
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Take strips of heavy, unbleached muslin, 12 x 54 inches. Mark down the middle lengthwise with a lead-pencil, and then crosswise every three
inches, beginning twelve inches from one end and making eleven lines. Number the twenty divisions, and at the same time number twenty ears of corn to be tested. Take six grains from ear No. 1 ( two from near tip, two from middle and two from near butt), no two kernels from same row, and place them on division No. 1 on the cloth, with tips of all kernels pointing the same way, crosswise of the cloth. Place kernels from No. 2 on space No. 2, and so on for all the ears.
Next place a handful of moist sawdust on a piece of blotting paper on one end of the cloth and roll the rag around it carefully so the kernels will not be dis- placed; roll fairly compact but not too tight. Tie the "rag doll" at both ends. Soak it in lukewarm water over night, drain for half an hour, and stand it on end in a pail lined with a wet cloth- tips of kernels pointing down. A few pieces of brick in the bottom of the pail will afford air circulation and drain- age. Fold the pail cloth-lining over the top, put a fairly heavy dry cloth over the pail, set it in a warm place, and moisten the cloths with warm water every day. In seven days, when the sprouts will be about two inches long, take the doll out and unroll carefully. Any ear whose kernels have not grown vigorously should be thrown out. Be careful to throw away the right ear.
Make six or eight "dolls"-a pailful- at the same time. To prevent mold, scald all the cloths used.
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work comes on. The
GENESEE COUNTY
Grafting and Budding
The Art of Grafting
When in the spring the sap begins to move in the stock, be ready; this occurs early in the plum and cherry, and later in the pear and apple. Do the grafting, if possible, on a mild day during showery weather. The necessary tools are a chisel, or a thick-bladed knife or a grafting iron (with which to split open the stock after it is sawed off smoothly with a fine-tooth saw), a hammer or mallet to aid the splitting process, a very sharp knife to trim the scions, and a supply of good grafting wax. Saw off a branch at the desired point, split the stock a little way down, and insert a scion at each outer edge-taking care that the inner bark of the scion fits
snugly and exactly against the inner bark of the stock. This-together with the exclusion of air and moisture until a union results-constitutes the secret of success.
Trim the scions to a long edge, as shown in the picture; insert them ac- curately; the wedge should be a trifle thicker on the side which comes in con- tact with the stock's bark. Lastly, apply grafting wax with a brush. Each scion should be long enough to have two or three buds, with the lower one placed as shown. The "spring" of the cleft holds the scion securely in place, and therefore tying should be unnecessary. If both scions in a cleft grow, one may later be cut away.
When grafting large trees it is best not to cut away too much of the tree at once; therefore, a few secondary branches should be left untouched, and
these, after the scions are thriftily grow- ing, can gradually be cut away the fol- lowing years. Or, part of a tree can be thus top-grafted one year and the re- mainder the next. Many a worthless tree has thus been entirely changed.
You can't graft a pear or an apple on a cherry or plum tree, or vice versa. The stone fruits and the pomaceous fruits are separate families and refuse to intermarry.
Judge Biggle likes to make his graft- ing wax this way: One pound of resin, one-half pound of beeswax, and one- quarter pound of tallow, melted together. Keep in an iron pot; heat for use when wanted. He says: "It is best to use scions which were cut very early this spring or last fall; they can be kept in moist sawdust or sand."
Common putty may be used for graft- ing wax, and is much cheaper; put it on good and thick and fill all cavities smoothly. Then take cloth, tear it in strips, wind it around the putty and tie it with string. Many fruit men say they have better luck with putty than with wax.
Bridge Grafting
Rabbits have seriously injured fruit trees in many orchards by girdling. When the girdle is only three or four inches wide the tree may be saved by bridge grafting. Trees with large patches of bark removed entirely around the trunk cannot be successfully treated, though those not too badly injured may , be saved by special treatment.
Bridge grafting should be done in early spring, scions from healthy trees being selected from twigs produced last season. The torn edges of the wound should be cut off smoothly, and all badly loosened bark removed. The scion should be cut half or three-quarters of an inch longer than the wound, and the ends of the scions pointed.
The scion may then be inserted under the edge of the bark, care being taken to have the cut on the scion made rather slanting, to give considerable space for it to unite with the bark of the tree.
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RURAL DIRECTORY
Several of these scions should be put in around the tree at intervals of not more than one and one-half inches. (See illustration ). On small trees, three or four scions will be sufficient.
It is a good practice to paint over the wound areas with white lead, and they may further be protected by binding with cloth. Care should be taken, however, to see that the twine that holds the cloth is not so tight as to girdle the newly-set scions. After the scions have become firmly established, the cloth may be removed.
The scions will continue to increase in size, and as they approach each other the union of one scion to the other may be accomplished by shaving the sides of the scions. In time the entire girdle area may be entirely healed over in this way.
SCION
WOUND
GRAFT
In some cases, bridge grafting will not be necessary. If the inner bark has not been removed by the rabbits, the tree may be saved by immediately protecting the girdled area before it has had time to dry out, by wrapping with cloth which has been treated with grafting wax. The inner bark will then form an outer bark, without serious injury. Where it can be used, this method is better than bridge grafting. Trees on which the bark has been removed along the sides and not entirely around the trunk, will be benefited by painting the wound. Be- fore this is done, however, the rough edges of the bark should be removed so as to facilitate healing.
REMARKS: After all is said, the fact remains that it is much safer and better to prevent injury than to cure it. As we have often stated, mice and rab bits can be kept off by wrapping the tree trunks with strips of wood veneer, laths, building paper or wire screening. Of course, however, such wrappings do no good after the injury is done.
Budding
The art of budding consists in taking a bud from one tree and inserting it under the bark of some other tree. The union of the two, the bud and the stock, takes place at the edges of the bark of the inserted bud. For this reason, the bud should be inserted as soon as cut from its twig and before it has had time to dry out. The bud should also be full, plump and well matured, and cut from wood of the current season's growth. The stock should be in active growth so that the bark will slip easily.
In cutting the bud a sharp knife is required, as a clean, smooth cut is de- sirable. The knife is inserted a half inch below and brought out the same
distance above, shaving out a small wedge of wood under the bud along with the bark. This wedge is no hindrance to the union and should not be removed. The leaf is always clipped off.
To insert bud, make a T-shaped in- cision just through the bark of stock, as shown in the illustration. Raise the bark carefully without breaking it and insert the bud. Practice will give ease and dispatch to the operator. The bud must be held firmly to the stock by a bandage wound about the stock, both above and below it, being careful to leave the eye of the bud uncovered. Raffia, bast, candlewick or waxed cloth may be used for tying. In about ten days, if the bud "takes," the bandage must be removed or the stock will be strangled and its growth hindered. The work of budding is usually performed in July or August in the North, and in June.in the South. When the bark peels easily, and the weather is dry and clear, is the ideal time.
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GENESEE COUNTY
CONCRETE for PERMANENCE Homer J. Blackmore, Davison, Michigan Smith Interlocking Cement Stave Silo
Lasts a lifetime. Strength increases with age. Fire and wind proof. No paint. No trouble with loose hoops. Retain their original shape. Any height or diameter desired. Absolutely air-tight and sanitary. Costs less than any other perishable or high-grade wood silo. Made right and stays right. Cured in steam kilns.
Moulded in steam-heated machines. WE ERECT THE SILO.
MICHIGAN SILO CO., Kalamazoo, Michigan Manufacturers
PHONE 1343
The Flint Printing Co. LARGEST AND BEST EQUIPPED PRINTING PLANT IN COUNTY
COMMERCIAL PRINTING Bookbinding
Ruling
FINE NEW PLANT Third Ave. at Detroit Street, Flint, Mich.
W. J. Smith & Son
-DEALERS IN ---
DRY GOODS, GROCERIES, SHOES HARDWARE and AUTO SUPPLIES
EVERYTHING AT THE RIGHT PRICE
BELL PHONE
RANKIN EXCHANGE
Rankin, Mich.
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RURAL DIRECTORY
How to Have Good Roads
The construction and maintenance of earth roads is a vital topic in every rural community. The most practical and successful system is that which originated with Mr. D. Ward King, and which is now in general use all over the country.
The keynote, or basis, of Mr. King's system is a simply-made road drag, fash- ioned from a split log about eight feet long, with the two parts about two and one-half feet apart. Any farmer can make one of these drags for himself, at a cost of a dollar or so-or less.
Speaking of this system, the Iowa Highway Commission says in a bulletin issued by the engineering department of Iowa State College :
"Water is the foe to good earth roads, and the whole object of earth road con- struction and maintenance is to get rid of the water and its bad effects. Three systems of drainage are needed :
"First, Tile or Sub-drainage. Wher- - ever the soil is naturally wet from ground water, a line of four-inch tile should be laid to a regular grade longi- tudinally along the uphill side of the road, under the side ditch, at a denth of three to four feet.
"Second. Side Ditches. A good, big, side ditch, built to a continuous grade as determined by a road level, so that the water will not stand in it at any point, should be provided on each side of the road. The road level should be used to make sure that the ditch is built to a grade which will not leave. ponds of water in the ditches after rains.
"Third, Surface Drainage. Proper surface drainage, to shed the water promptly into the side ditches, should be provided by properly crowning the road, and by then keeping it hard and smooth with a King road drag. This drag is the cheapest instrument we have found for this purpose. The annual cost per mile of road treated with the King road drag, where all the time has been paid for by the hour, has not been found to exceed $2.50 to $3.00.
"We advise farmers to start using the
drag without waiting for the road offi- cers to take it up. They will be well repaid for their trouble by the saving of time and expense in using the roads, and the increase in value of their land, due to a good road in front of it.
"We also advise road officers to adopt the road drag, and to provide farmers with free materials to make them, and to hire the roads dragged where the farmers do not themselves undertake the work. There is no possible use of the road funds known to us which will yield such great returns for so small an outlay. In fact, the outlay will be more than saved by the lessened need for the big road grader, with its great cost of operation.
"Gravel roads, when cut up an inch or two deep in continued wet weather, should be gone over at such times with a King drag, the same as an earth road."
The correct method of using the King drag is about as follows :
Begin operations at once, and do not entirely abandon the work except when ground is solidly frozen. A few min- utes' or hours' work, now and then, is better than a week's work all at once.
After each rain or wet spell drive up one wheel track and back on the other at least once, with the drag in position. to throw the earth to the center. Ride on the drag. Haul at an angle of 45 degrees. Lay boards on the drag to stand on. Gradually widen the strip dragged as the road improves. To round up the road better, plow a shallow fur- row occasionally each side of the dragged strip, and spread the loose dirt toward the center.
Thus the road gradually becomes smooth, hard, and almost impervious to water. Rains run off the rounded road- bed, like water from a duck's back. By using the drag when the road is muddy (as advised) the earth packs and cements itself into a hard and nearly waterproof surface. And that is the idea, in a nutshell. 'Tis plain to see that if water can find no place to stand, no chuck-holes or ruts can develop.
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GENESEE COUNTY
FARMERS' BULLETINS Sent Free to Residents of the United States, by Department of Agriculture Washington, D. C., on Application.
NOTE .- Some nmmbers omitted are no longer published. Bulletins in this list will be sent free, so long as the supply lasts, to any resident of the United States, on application to his Senator, Representa- tive, or Delegate in Congress, or to the Secretary of Agriculture, Washington, D. C. Because of the limited supply, applicants are urged to select only a few numbers, choosing those which are of special interest to them. Residents of foreign countries should apply to the Superintendent of Documents, Gov- ernment Printing Office, Washington, D. C., who has these bulletins for sale. Price, 5 cents each to Canada, Cuba, and Mexico: 6 cents to other foreign countries.
22. The Feeding of Farm Animals.
27. Flax for Seed and Fiber.
28. Weeds: And How to Kill Them.
30. Grape Diseases on the Pacific Coast.
34. Meats: Composition and Cooking.
35. Potato Culture.
36. Cotton Seed and Its Products.
44. Commercial Fertilizers.
48. The Manuring of Cotton.
51. Standard Varieties of Chickens.
.52. The Sugar Beet.
54. Some Common Birds.
55. The Dairy Herd.
61. Asparagus Culture.
62. Marketing Farm Prodnce.
64. Ducks and Geese.
77. The Liming of Soils.
81. Corn Culture in the South. 85. Fish as Food.
86. Thirty Poisonous Plants. 88. Alkali Lands.
91. Potato Diseases and Treatment.
99. Insect Enemies of Shade Trees. 101. Millets.
104. Notes on Frost.
106. Breeds of Dairy Cattle.
113. The Apple and How to Grow It.
118. Grape Growing in the South.
121. Beans, Peas, and Other Legumes Food.
126. Suggestions for Farm Buildings.
127. Important Insecticides.
128. Eggs and Their Uses as Food.
131. Tests for Detection of Oleomargarine. 134 Tree Planting in Rural School Grounds. 137. The Angora Goat.
138. Irrigation in Field and Garden.
139. Emmer: a Grain for the Semi-arid Re- gions.
140. Pineapple Growing.
150. Clearing New Land.
152. Scabies in Cattle.
154. The Home Fruit Garden
156. The Home Vineyard.
157. The Propagation of Plants.
158. How to Build Irrigation Ditches.
164. Rape as a Forage Crop
166. Cheese Making on the Farm. 167. Cassava.
170. Principles of Horse Feeding.
172. Scale Insects and Mites on Trees.
Citrus
173. Primer of Forestry.
174. Broom Corn.
175. Home Manufacture of Grape Jnice.
176. Cranberry Culture.
177. Sqnab Raising.
178. Insects Injurious in Cranberry Culture. 179. Horseshoeing. 181. Pruning. 182. Poultry as Food.
183. Meat on the Farm.
185. Beautifying the Home Grounds.
187. Drainage of Farm Lands.
188 Weeds Used in Medicine.
192 Barnyard Manure.
194. Alfalfa Seed.
195. Annual Flowering Plants.
198. Strawberries.
200. Turkeys. 201. The Cream Farms.
Separator on Western
203. Canned Fruits, Preserves and Jellies. 204. The Cultivation of Mushrooms.
205. Pig Management.
206. Milk Fever and Its Treatment.
213. Raspberries
218. The School Garden.
220. Tomatoes.
221. Fnngous Diseases of the Cranberry.
224. Canadian Field Peas.
228. Forest Planting and Farm Manage- ment.
229. Production of Good Seed Corn.
231. Cucumber and Melon Diseases.
232. Okra: Its Culture and Uses.
234. The Guinea Fowl.
236. Incubation and Incubators.
238. Citrus Fruit Growing in the States.
Gulf
239. The Corrosion of Fence Wire.
241. Butter Making on the Farm.
242. An Example of Model Farming.
243. Fungicides and Their Use.
245. Renovation of Worn-out Soils.
246. Saccharine Sorghums.
88 248. The Lawn.
249. Cereal Breakfast Foods.
250. Wheat Smut and Loose Smut of Oats.
252. Maple Sugar and Syrup.
253. The Germination of Seed Corn.
254. Cucumbers.
255. The Home Vegetable Garden.
256. Preparation of Vegetables for the
Table.
257. Soil Fertility.
260. Seed of Red Clover and Its Impurities. 263. Information for Beginners in Irrigation. 264. The Brown-Tail Moth.
266. Management of Soils to Conserve Mois- ture.
269. Industrial Alcohol: Uses and Statistics. 270. Modern Conveniences for the Farm
Home.
271. Forage Crop Practices in the North- west.
272. A Successful Hog and Seed-Corn Farm. 274. Flax Culture.
275. The Gypsy Moth.
277. Alcohol and Gasoline in Farm Engines. 278. Leguminous Crops for Green Manuring. 279. A Method of Eradicating Johnson Grass. 280. A Profitable Tenant Dairy Farm. 282. Celery.
284. Enemies of the Grape East of the Rockies. 286. Cotton Seed and Cotton-Seed Meal. 287. Poultry Management.
288. Non-saccharine Sorghums.
289. Beans.
291. Evaporation of Apples.
292. Cost of Filling Silos.
293. Use of Fruit as Food.
295. Potatoes and Other Root Crops as Food. 298. Food Value of Corn and Corn Prod- ucts.
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RURAL DIRECTORY
299. Diversified Farming. 301. Home-Grown Tea. 302. Sea Island Cotton.
303. Corn Harvesting Machinery.
304. Growing and Curing Hops.
409. School Lessons on Corn.
410. Potato Culis as a Source of Alcohol.
411. Feeding Hogs in the South.
413. The Care of Milk and Ita Use.
414. Corn Cultivation.
415. Seed Corn.
417. Rice Culture.
420. Oats: Distribution and Uses.
421. Control of Blowing Soils.
Work on Southern
423. Forest Nurseries for Schoola.
424. Oats: Growing the Crop.
426. Canning Peaches on the Farm.
427. Barley Culture in the Southern States.
428. Testing Farm Seeds.
429. Industrial Alcohol: Manufacture.
431. The Peanut.
432. How a City Family Managed a Farm.
433. Cabbage.
434. Production of Onion Seed and Sets.
436. Winter Oats for the Sonth.
437. A System of Tenant Farming.
438. Hog Houses.
439. Anthrax.
440. Spraying Peaches.
441. Lespedeza, or Japan Clover
442. The Treatment of Bee Diseases.
443. Barley: Growing the Crop.
444. Remediea Against Mosquitoes.
445. Marketing Egga Through the Creamery.
446. The Choice of Crops for Alkali Land. 447. Bees.
448. Better Grain-Sorghum Crops.
449. Rabies or Hydrophobia.
450. Some Facts About Malaria.
452. Capons and Caponizing.
453. Danger of Spread of Gypsy and Brown- Tail Motha.
454. A Successful New York Farm.
455. Red Clover.
456. Our Grosbeaks and Their Value.
458. The Best Two Sweet Sorghuma. 459. House Flies.
460. Frames as a Factor in Truck Growing. 461. The Use of Concrete on the Farm.
462. The Utilization of Logged-Off Land.
463. The Sanitary Privy.
464. The Eradication of Quack-Grass.
466. Winter Emmer.
467. Chestnut Bark Disease.
468. Forestry in Nature Study.
470. Game Laws.
471. Grape Propagation, Pruning, Training.
472. Farming in Central New Jersey.
474. Paint on the Farm.
475. Ice Houses.
476. Dying Pine in Southern States. 477. Sorghum Sirup Manufacture.
478. Typhoid Fever.
480. Disinfecting Stables.
481. Concrete on the Live-Stock Farm.
482. How to Grow Pears.
483. Thornless Prickly Pears.
484. Spotted Fever.
485. Sweet Clover.
487. Cheese in the Diet.
488. Diseases of Cabbage, etc.
489. Two Imported Plant Diseases.
490. Bacteria in Milk.
492. Fungous Enemies of the Apple.
493. English Sparrow Pest.
494. Lawn Soils and Lawns.
495. Alfalfa Seed Production.
496. Raising Hares and Rabbits. 498. Texas-fever Tick.
500. Control of the Boll Weevil.
501. Cotton Improvement. 502. Timothy in the Northwest.
403. Construction of Concrete Fence Poats. 503. Comb Honey.
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322. Milo as a Dry-Land Grain Crop. 324. Sweet Potatoes.
325. Small Farms in the Corn Belt.
326. Building up a Cotton Plantation.
328. Silver Fox Farming.
330. Deer Farming in the United States. 331. Forage Crops for Hogs in Kansas 332. Nuts and Their Uses as Food. 333. Cotton Wilt.
337. New England Dairy Farms. 338. Macadam Roads.
339. Alfalfa.
341. The Basket Willow.
344. The Boll Weevil Problem.
345. Some Common Disinfectants.
346. The Computation of Rations.
347. The Repair of Farm Equipment.
348. Bacteria in Milk.
349. The Dairy Industry in the South. 350. The Dehorning of Cattle.
351. The Tuberculin Teat of Cattle.
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