USA > Michigan > History of Michigan, civil and topographical, in a compendious form; with a view of the surrounding lakes > Part 25
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In the year 1820 this town was the seat of an Indian agen- cy of the United States, a council-house, a post-office, and gaol. Fine building stone abounds on the island. It was long the depot of the fur trade, conducted by the American Fur Company under the agency of Messrs. Stewart and Crooks. A large portion of the town plot was occupied by the buildings and fixtures connected with that establishment. Their warehouses, offices, boat yards, stores, &c. were nu- merous, affording employment for a great number of mechan- ics, clerks, and engagees, necessarily connected with so great an establishment. It is now unoccupied, but the trade is ex- tensively carried on by individual adventurers. Steam-boats almost daily visit this place upon their voyages to the north-
272
HISTORY OF MICHIGAN.
western ports ; while the numberless canoes and vessels, dur- ing the period of navigation, which daily go into the station, give an air of business and bustle to this beautiful island.
The coast of Lake Huron, as you proceed towards the Sault St. Marie, until within about three miles of that place, is composed of low swamps, in some places intersected by sandy plains, covered at different points with fragments of limestone, hornblend, and granite.
The village of St. Joseph, situated on the island of that name, and which was destroyed by Col. Croghan before his attack on the island of Michilimackinac, may now be seen a heap of mouldering ruins. This island was occupied by the British in 1795, and contains an area of about fifty-seven thousand acres of land. The old British fort elevated fifty- four feet above the level of the lake, maintains a military po- sition somewhat commanding.
The British Government, after the fall of St. Joseph, forti- fied Drummond's Island, near the mouth of the strait, which has since been a valuable position in aid of the fur trade.
The falls of the Sault St. Marie essentially obstruct the ship navigation of the upper lakes. The village of that name, which is there situated, is about fifteen miles below Lake Su- perior, and ninety miles north-west of the island of Macki- naw. Its situation is elevated, and the scenery is picturesque. The enterprise of Michigan has recently projected a plan for a ship channel around these falls. The effect of this bold and honorable adventure, when executed, will be to open to the shores of New-York the sources of the vast and unlimit- ed mineral region surrounding this magnificent world of wa- ters.
It is estimated that the fall is here about twenty-three feet in half a mile. At this place nature assumes an air of un- usual grandeur and sublimity. Vast fragments of rocks, con- sisting of granite and hornblend, lie imbedded in the stream, which, opposed to the current of the rapids, scatter its foam around the maple, the pine, the hemlock, and the elm, min- gled in green forests upon its banks. The canoes of the In- dians engaged in fishing, and which are seen playing around
273
LAKE COAST OF MICHIGAN.
the foot of the falls ; and the distant mountains of Lake Su- perior, which stand like mighty battlements on the horizon, impress the scenery with a character of solitary grandeur. Boats destined for the fur trade can ascend these rapids with half a load, but in returning they may be filled with freight. The town, consisting, in 1820, of twenty buildings, is on the American side. During that year it was occupied chiefly by French and English, who were engaged in the fur trade. The country around is elevated, and the village bears the as- pect of an ancient settlement. Charlevoix visited it in 1721, not long after it was founded. In 1762 it contained but four houses, two of which were occupied as barracks, with at stockaded fort and garrison. The old fort is totally destroy- ed. In the year 1820 the village contained forty lodges of Chippewa Indians and two hundred inhabitants. Their principal subsistence was the White Fish, which are taken in great abundance in these waters.
On the north bank of the river there were at that time six or seven dwelling-houses, occupied by French and English inhabitants, beside the establishment of the north-west compa- ny of fur traders. These consisted of a saw mill, a boat yard, some stone houses, and a dwelling-house. The company had constructed a canal, with a lock and towing path, fitted for ascending with barges and canoes on their trading expe- ditions. They had also erected a pier from one of the islands, at the head of the rapids, constituting a harbor, where the goods destined for the trade were shipped. Here also lay a vessel to receive the merchandize intended for the regions around the Great Lake and the Grand Portage. In the pro- gress of the country, the Sault de St. Marie must of necessity become a place of great commercial importance. At the head of navigation, below Lake Superior, it was early deemed so important in the prosecution of the fur trade, as to be selected by the French Canadians for that purpose, and has been used for that purpose both by the French and English, as well as Americans, ever since. By the late act of Congress defin- ing the boundaries of Michigan, this station is embraced with- in it; and the enterprise of the State will doubtless make it an 35
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274
HISTORY OF MICHIGAN.
agent of great wealth, by furnishing a free navigation to the Jake, which may be justly called the Father of the North- 'western waters. A passage of fifteen miles through a wide and pleasant stream, called the River St. Mary's, brings one to the lake. Here the Superior stretches out its broad ex- panse far to the west, like an ocean. Before you is exhi- bited a display of scenery, the most grand and magnificent which can be found within the borders of the State. It is a scene of simple grandeur. The mountains upon the Cana- dian shore and at the south lie piled along the skies, and ap- pear like distant clouds upon the horizon. In a calm, the wa- ters, fresh and clear as crystal, move over a bed of rocks. " When it was calm," says Carver, " and the sun shone bright, " I could sit in my canoe, where the depth was upwards of " six fathoms, and plainly see hnge piles of stones, of differ- " ent shapes ; some of which appeared as if they had been " hewn." Storms rage, at times, on this lake, as upon the Atlantic. Navigation, however, has not yet advanced in any great degree upon these remote waters. The barges and ca- noes employed in the fur business hug the shores in their ex- peditions upon them, and, of course, are subject to compara- tively few accidents of much consequence.
When the French held Canada, a small schooner plied upon this lake. As yet the march of enterprise has not scat- tered its vessels and steamers upon its surface. It is now at the point where Lake Erie was found in the year 1800. The lower shore of the lake is a margin of sand. A few miles back it terminates in highlands of considerable elevation. The timber consists of oak, aspen, birch, hemlock, and pine. The shore is broken by marshes, creeks, ravines, and sand hills, which give evidence of volcanic eruptions.
The pictured rocks, so called, extend twelve miles along the margin of the lake, and are in height about three hun- dred feet. The various colors of red, black, brown, and yel- low, which they exhibit and their name imports, are caused by the different mineral waters which are exuded. Along the borders of this lake are seen villages of Chippewas, scat-, tered along its shores. These procure their subsistence from
275
LAKE COAST OF MICHIGAN.
the lakes, and, neglecting agriculture, many actually die of famine.
The distance from Mackinaw to the mouth of the Ontona- gon River on Lake Superior, is about four hundred and six- teen miles. Here is the rock of pure copper, which is said to be the largest body of that metal to be found in the world, with but one exception. Evidences of pure copper are, in fact, exhibited on the adjacent island, and on the shores of the lake, in sufficient quantity to warrant the conviction that this country abounds to a great extent in this ore. A difference of opinion on this subject, however, exists, which it is pre- sumed experiments will soon do away. This copper, as well as that around St. Mary, was formerly beaten out by the In- dians into various utensils, as also into rings, bracelets, and other barbaric ornaments ; and by the early Catholics, formed into crosses and censers.
'The principal islands in this lake are Maurepas, Philipoux, the island of Yellow Sands, and Isle Royale. The latter island is estimated to be a hundred miles in length and for- ty broad. Of the country surrounding Lake Superior, but little is satisfactorily known ; at least so far as to warrant an expectation of minute description in this work. We must follow in the track which has been travelled by previous ad- venturers. Enough, however, is ascertained, to warrant the belief that it is a country of great mineral wealth.
The country bordering Lake Superior is not, however, generally adapted to agriculture. Wild rice or oats grow in great abundance around the sources of the rivers and lakes in this quarter ; and it was not only a grain of considerable importance during the. early operations of the fur trade, but it is now much used by the Indians for subsistence. The following is the mode in which it is gathered by the savages. Before in is ripe, the Indians bind it sheafs, when standing, by strings of bark. After standing for some time exposed in this way, it is collected by bending the sheafs over into their canoes, and by beating off the grain with large sticks until these canoes are full. It is then poured into a deer-skin, which is placed in holes upon the ground, and trampled with
276
HISTORY OF MICHIGAN.
the bare feet until the hulls are off. Afterwards it is either parched, or boiled for use .*
Large bodies of iron sand are found along the coast of Lake Superior, greater, probably, than in any other section of the country. The water along the coast is clear and deep ; and there are two natural harbors, which can hardly be ex- celled, at Grand Isle and Chegormegon Bay. This region will doubtless be a great place of export of minerals in the future commerce of the country.
It is enough for Lake Superior to say, that it is the largest body of fresh water on the earth, and that its waters swell the whole chain of the lakes of the north-west, fill the chan- nels of its streams and the tide of the St. Lawrence, thunder down Niagara, and go on in their everlasting journey to the ocean. The scenery, instead of being beautiful as in the pe- ninsular portion of Michigan, is here bold and sublime. Na- ture seems to have appropriated this domain to herself, where she can be enthroned amid enduring rocks, and reign in undisturbed solitude. Here, too, she has practised painting, sculpture, and architecture. The pictured rocks, painted in gorgeous colors by mineral alluviations, spread out their smooth canvass to the eye ; and now the barrier is broken into vast fragments in the form of temples, arches, towers, cities, and monuments. Among the most striking of these are the Doric Rock and the Urn. From those solid walls of rock, cascades leap out, and pour their waters into the lake. Turbid swamps stretch out their dismal morasses in the hol- lows of these waves of rock. It seems as if nature had rent these rocks into fragments by some powerful convulsion, and had strewed their wrecks upon the shores, in mockery of human art. But a small proportion of the emigration,. which is pressing to the west, lodges in this cold and in- hospitable region. Scattered bands of the Chippewas and Sioux may be found upon its shores ; and its darkness is sometimes illumined by the camp fires of the Coureurs des
* It is said that Monominee River owes the origin of its name to the Indian word which signifies wild rice-eaters.
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277
LAKE COAST OF MICHIGAN.
Bois, who have adventured there in search of furs. The bear and the famished Indian wander upon its hills, and the bald eagle sits upon the cliff, and whets his beak, or watches for his prey upon the broad expanse of Lake Su- perior, which thunders at its base.
Green Bay, which is an indentation of Lake Michigan, is a place some interest, as containing a French settlement of an- cient date. This settlement was made by the French as early as 1670. In 1820 the village consisted of sixty dwell- ing-houses, five hundred inhabitants, and a garrison. Seven- ty of the citizens were then enrolled as soldiers ; the main part of whom were the French who had intermarried with the Indian women. During the last war, the influence of this people was strongly allied to the English. The vil- lage was formerly included within the territory of Michigan, and was the seat of justice for Brown County under that or- ganization ; but by the late act of congress it has been placed within the bounds of Wisconsin. The fort of Green Bay is located on the north bank of Fox River, near its mouth. It consisted, in 1820, of a range of log barracks, opening upon three sides of a square parade. It had block-houses at each angle, and was surrounded by a stockade about thirty feet in height ; and was then garrisoned by three hundred men, The military establishment here has, however, become much enlarged ; and a thriving settlement has been built on its present site, which is probably the nucleus of a large sea-port. The watersof Green Bay are very clear, and its banks are a rich alluvial soil, crowned with hemlock, poplar, elm, and caks ; and the verdant vegetation, which is generally much more forward here than in the surrounding country, has originated the name.
The shore of Lake Michigan, which stretches like a sea on the western side of the peninsula, is an alluvial sand, based on transition lime-stone, covered at intervals with fragments of rock of the primitive and secondary classes ; and bearing at points a growth of beach, oak, pine, birch, poplar, and maple. Petrifactions of some interest are found among masses of hornblend, quartz, limestone, and granite,
278
HISTORY OF MICHIGAN.
The different sections of the shore of the lake do not, how- ever, exhibit a uniform character. At some points the banks are elevated nearly sixty feet, with a sand beach crowned with maple. During certain periods, violent thunder storms rage upon it ; and the shore has been known to be covered with the skeletons of pigeons and gulls, which had been drowned in crossing at such times. Eagles, in great num- bers, also frequent these shores, in order to glut themselves upon their dead bodies, which are thrown upon the beach. Here the bank stretches into a succession of pine-covered sand hills, and there it swells into verdant and picturesque landscapes, bearing a growth of forest trees, which indicate a soil of the greatest richness. The progress of emigration has increased the settlements, which were formerly the site of Indian lodges or small trading-houses, into important vil- lages.
Among those places are Milwaukee and Chicago. The former of these ports was, in 1820, the site of a Potawatamie village, and but two American familes resided there at that time ; whereas it is well known as a village of considerable population and wealth. The Milwaukee River is about six- ty yards wide at the mouth. At this point is the city of Mil- waukee. Chicago is two hundred and seventy-five miles from Green Bay, a city standing upon a rolling and beautiful prairie, and consisted during the same year of only twelve dwelling-houses, and a population of only about sixty. A garrison stands on the south side of Chicago Creek.
Michigan City, New Buffalo, and St. Joseph, at the mouth of the St. Joseph River, have sprung up within the last four ycars. Twenty miles up this river on the bank was the old French fort, St. Joseph, together with the missionary esta- blishment. Along this part of the coast of Lake Michigan, the immediate shores exhibit a sterile prospect, although the interior abounds in extensive agricultural resources ; vast hil- locks of sand, driven into varying heaps at every storm, cover the banks, scattered as they are with occasional pines and poplars. The principal rivers which enter into Lake Michigan from the peninsular portion of the State, are the
279
LAKE COAST OF MICHIGAN.
Grand, Moskegon, St. Joseph, and that which is called Pere Marquette .*
. The distance from Detroit to the mouth of the Ontonagon River, on Lake Superior, with the intermediate places of any prominence, is comprised in the following table, formed by Mr. Schoolcraft in his expedition into that region in 1820.
From Detroit to the entrance into Lake St.
Clair,
MILES 6 TOTAL MILES.
Grosse Point,
3
9
Mouth of Flint River, of St. Clair,
15
24
Mouth of St. Clair River,
8
32
Belle River at St. Clair settlement,
18
60
Black River,
9
69
Fort Gratiot,
2
71
White Rock,
55
126
Elm Creek,
10
136
Black River,
12
148
Point aux Barques,
12
160
Point aux Chenes, on Saganaw Bay,
18
178
Shawangunk Islands,
11
189
River aux Sable,
30
210
Thunder Bay Island,
40
250
Flat Rock Point, near Middle Island,
18
268
Presque Isle,
20
288
Lower end of the Island of Bois Blanc,
60
348
Michilimackinac,
12
360
From Michilimackinac to Detour,
40
To the Sault de St. Marie,
45
85
Point aux Pins,
6
91
* This last river derives its name from the following fact, as related by Char- levoix. That illustrious missionary, Father Marquette, in travelling from Chica- go to Michilimackinac, entered this river on the 8th day of May, 1675. Here he erected an altar, and said mass. He afterwards went a short distance from his companions to return thanks. They soon found him dead, and buried him on the bank. From that time, the river, says Charlevoix, has retired, out of res- pect to his remains, and opened for itself a new passage.
280
HISTORY OF MICHIGAN.
MILES. TOTAL.
Point Iroquois, entrance of Lake Superior, 9
100
Tonquamenon River,
15
115
Shelldrake River,
9 124
White Fish Point,
-
9
132
Two-Hearted River,
24
157
Grande Marrais, and Commencement of Grande Sables,
21
178
La Point La Grande Sables,
9
187
Pictured Rocks La Portaille,
12
199
Doric Rock and Miner's River,
6
205
Grand Island,
12
217
River aux Trains,
9.
226
Isle aux Trains,
3
229
Laughing Fish River,
6
235
Chocolate River,
15
250
Dead River (in Presque Isle Bay,)
6
256
Granite Point,
6
262
Garlic River,
9
271
St. John's River,
15
286
Salmon Trout, or Burnt River,
12
298
Pine River,
6
304
Huron River (Huron Isles lie off this river,)
9
313
Point Abbaye, East Cape of Keweena
Bay,
6 319
Mouth of Portage River,
21
340
Head of Portage River, through Keweena Lake,
24
364
Lake Superior, at the head of the Portage, 1 365
Little Salmon Trout River,
9
374
Graverods River (small, with flat rocks at its mouth,)
6
380
Riviere au Misiere,
12
392
Fire Steel River,
18
410
Ontonagon, or Copper Mine River,
6
416
Thus the whole distance from Detroit to the Ontonagon
281
LAKE COAST OF MICHIGAN.
River, which is situated near the north-west line of Michi- gan, following the indentations of the shores through the great chain of the nortli-western lakes, is about seven hun- dred and seventy-six miles, calculating the length of Lake Michigan at four hundred miles, the length of the coast of Michigan is nearly twelve hundred miles.
The long line of navigation which has been thus briefly described, constitutes the Lake coast of Michigan. Stretch- ing along the east, the north, and the west ; connecting with the rising territory of Wisconsin the States of Illinois, Indiana, Pennsylvania, Ohio, and New-York ; each having ports on the lakes, and constituting a vast extent of territory, ample in mineral and agricultural resources, and with innumerable streams reaching far into the interior ; the lake territory opens a long line of navigation to the remotest sections of the north-west, and will circulate vigor and commercial wealth along nearly the entire borders of the State of Michigan .*
* For the material of a great proportion of this chapter I am indebted to the valuable work of Mr. Henry R. Schoolcraft, entitled " Narrative of the Expe- dition under Governor Cass, in 1820, through the great chain of American lakes."
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CHAPTER XV.
County of Wayne-Monroe-Macomb-St. Clair-Lenawee-Hillsdale- Branch-St. Joseph-Cass-Calhoun-Jackson-Berrien -- Van Buren- Kalamazoo -- Washtenaw- Oakland -- Livingston- Ingham-Eaton-Barry Alleghan -- La Peer-Genessee-Shiawassee-Clinton-Ionia-Kent-Sa- ginaw-Mackinaw-Chippewa-Production of the counties in 1837.
MICHIGAN is bounded on the north by Lake Superior ; on the south by Ohio and Indiana ; on the east by Lake Erie, De- troit River, Lake St. Clair, River St. Clair, and Lake Huron ; and its western boundary is formed by Lake Michigan and the territory of Wisconsin.
The County of Wayne is bordered by the Detroit River, and its seat of justice is Detroit. The north-eastern part of the county, included in the towns of Hamtramck, Detroit, and Springwells, is low, level, and but poorly supplied with water, although it is occasionally broken by marshes and wet prairies. The towns of Nankin and Plymouth are watered by the Rouge and its branches. These afford valuable water-power, which has been improved by the erection of grist-mills and saw-mills. The soil of the town of Nankin is somewhat rolling, consisting of sand, loam, and clay ; and is heavily timbered with the white and black ash, white and black oak, beech and sugar maple. The middle is comprised of plains and openings of a light soil. The soil of Plymouth is rolling, and contains, beside the timber which has been mentioned, thrifty groves of the black walnut. The Huron, a clear and rapid stream, flows through a town of the same name in this county, bordered by high banks and sloping glades. A greater part of this town is destitute of streams ; the soil is rich, and easy of tillage. The eastern part is com- prised of oak openings and plains, intermingled with groves of
283
THE COUNTIES OF MICHIGAN.
dense timber, broken by a swamp, a wet or dry prairie. The south part is timbered with white and black ash, white-oak, beech, and maple, with occasionally a white wood. The south-west corner is low land, and contains a large wet prai- rie. Brownstown is not well watered, and exhibits oak openings, plains and prairies, intermingled with groves of heavy timber. The south-eastern part is level, excepting at the mouth of the Huron River. It is watered by Muddy and Brownstown Creek. Monguagon is situated on Detroit River. This township is fertile, and has a good quarry of limestone. It embraces Grosse Isle. Dearborn is a beauti- ful township. The village of Dearbornville contains the United States arsenal ; and a large amount of cannon and am- munition are here stored for the defence of the State. Detroit, the largest city in Michigan, now contains a population of more than ten thousand ; and a polished and agreeable so- ciety. Many of the houses are of brick. A general thorough- fare for the travel of the north-west, it is, during the proper season, almost filled with emigrants from the different parts of the United States. The County of Wayne contains the towns of Brownstown, with a population of 846; Canton, 1050 ; Dearborn, 1317 ; Detroit, 8273; Ecorce, 709 ; Green- field, 897 ; Hamtramck, 1772; Huron, 481; Livonia, 1076; Monquagon, 404; Nankin, 1160; Plymouth, 2246; Redford, 1021; Romulus, 389; Springwells, 960; Van Buren, 799. The whole constitutes an aggregate of 23,400. About fifty steam-boats stop at Detroit, besides vessels amount- ing to a considerable tonnage.
The County of Monroe is bounded on the east by Lake Erie. This county is well watered. The north-eastern part is low, level, and heavily timbered ; while the southern part is rolling land, alternated by tracts of heavy timber, oak open- ings, and prairies. The soil is generally very fertile. The towns are, Ash, containing a population of 1011; Bedford, 431; Erie, 999 ; Exeter, 156 ; Frenchtown, 1503; Ida, 200; La Salle, 826 ; London, 456; Milan, 270; Monroe, 2795 ; Raisinville, 614 ; Summerfield, 1128 ; Whiteford, 257. Total, 10,646. This county is watered principally by the River
.
284
HISTORY OF MICHIGAN.
Raisin, a serpentine stream which flows into Lake Erie. The prominent village is Monroe, a settlement extending along the banks of the River Raisin, containing several handsome pieces of architecture. Among these are three | handsome churches and a court-house, whose cost is estimat- ed to be about 40,000 dollars. The village is about three miles from the mouth of the river, Many of the population of Monroe County, who are distinguished for their energy and enterprise, are French. A ship canal has been com- menced from the mouth of the river to the village; and a rail-road is now in operation from Lake Erie to that point.
The County of Macomb is comprised of rolling land in the western part, occasionally broken by hills, but variegated by oak openings, plains, and prairies ; while the north-eastern and western part is level, and heavily timbered. The plains are remarkably free from undergowth, and the soil is highly productive. It is watered by the Clinton River, a beautiful stream, which with its branches supplies water-power, ferti- lizes the soil and beautifies the landscape. Its seat of justice is Mount Clement, a picturesque village, which lies four and a half miles from Lake St. Clair. Its towns are, Armada, with a population of 1001; Bruce, 889; Clinton, 1193; Harrison, 502 ; Hickory, 249; Jefferson, 523; Lenox, 234; Macomb, 736 ; Orange, 297; Ray, 786; Shelby, 1153; Washington, 1329 : and the aggregate population is 8892.
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