USA > Michigan > History of Michigan, civil and topographical, in a compendious form; with a view of the surrounding lakes > Part 28
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HISTORY OF MICHIGAN.
Along the courses of the rivers is generally found a belt of gloomy forest, varying in width ; where the trees, close toge- ther and of large size, send up their shafts high into the air, and interlock their branches so as to shut out the sun from the damp and deep vegetable matter which moulders in the twilight around their trunks. As you advance across these belts into the interior, extensive tracts of groves expand be- fore the eye, on an undulating surface ; sometimes broken by a prairie, which appears like a lake, studded occasionally with wooded islands, and surrounded by forest shores. These prairies, composed of a rich and deep vegetable mould, often ex- tend as far as the eye can reach ; and through a distant avenue, resembling a strait made by the wilderness, another prairie may be often seen, stretched out in an irregular form. Groves of burr-oak, resembling orchards, may be descried ; and now a swamp, where the mire is so deep as to render it impervious, opposes a formidable obstacle to the traveller. Sometimes the prospect is bounded by wide tracts called barrens, afford- ing a stinted growth of trees and a tolerable soil, but stretch- ing along hillock and dale in beautiful undulation.
The navigable advantages of this region are scarcely ex- ceeded by its agricultural resources. Besides numerous small streams which afford inland navigation, water-power, and channels for rafts and flat boats, the Ohio waters a va- luable portion of the north-west. The Mississippi, taking its rise in the remote north, and receiving as tributaries several large rivers, fertilizes nearly three thousand miles of country in its progress to the Gulf of Mexico; and the great lakes, Erie, Huron, Michigan, and Superior, constituting much the largest body of fresh water on the globe, watering the shores of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, and Wisconsin, and giving to Michigan a longer line of coast than any other State in the Union, seek the ocean through the St. Lawrence.
The State of Ohio, containing a population of more than fifteen hundred thousand, has, from its age and proximity to the east, become already more densely settled than any other portion of this territory. Such a measure of physical strength acting on the soil, must have made vast inroads upon the
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wilderness ; and, accordingly we find in that a greater mea- sure of improvement than in any other of the north-western States. Here, wider clearings have been made. Broader harvests gild the fields, which are spread out below ; solitary trees, whose massive trunks spring from the vegetable mould towards the heavens " like the lone columns of a fallen tem- ple," which the axe of the emigrant has destroyed. More frequent herds of cattle, with tinkling bells to show their ranging grounds, rove the natural pastures of the wilderness within sight of the smoke which curls from the log-house in the forest. Roads are more beaten ; and the silence of the streams is more often broken by the voice of the boatman, or the hoarse puff of the steamboat as it shoots along undulating banks crowned with forest, loaded with freight for Cincinnati, Pittsburg, or the intermediate ports ; the whole scene present- ing a sturdy frame of enterprise, acting on a bountiful soil, which only requires age and industry to mould its condition into luxury and refinement.
Indiana soon opens to view, with its broad and fertile plains ; exhibiting less improvement than Ohio, but inhabited by an agricultural class of population, amounting to six hun- dred thousand, who are content to live in their comfortable villages and farm-houses in comparative indolence ; know- ing that the seed which is thrown broad cast upon their ploughed oak-lands and savannas, will yield them bounteous returns ; intelligent, cheerful, and independent.
Michigan* soon appears in sight, with its picturesque land- scapes and lakes, its parks of oak-lands and flowery glades. This may be properly termed the Lake State ; for four large lakes wash its shores, giving rise to the Indian origin of the name, and its whole domain is studded with little crystal ponds, which are set like gems in the soil to beautify the scenery.
Then comes Illinois, with its wide prairies ready for the plough, where the mould varies from one to five feet deep ;
* See Gazetteer of Michigan, containing a valuable collection of statistical facts.
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HISTORY OF MICHIGAN.
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which in summer are covered with gorgeous flowers ; and as winter approaches, present the aspect of black and cheerless plains, from the autumnal fires which sweep over this region. Here the prairies, which in Michigan seem like small ponds, stretch into a form which may be compared to chains of seas ; with their indentations, bays, bends, timbered islands, and straits, all bounded by forest shores. And the inducements which are here held out for settlement have not been offered in vain ; for, although of recent growth, the emigrants who occupy its rich fields, and the wood-lands which fringe its streams, amount, together with Michigan, to about seven hundred thousand.
At last the territory of Wisconsin, containing a population of more than nineteen thousand ; a hilly region, abounding with water-power and mineral wealth, washed by Lake Michigan and the upper Mississippi, sweeps forward among the sister States, like a young maiden in green and flowing robes, to win the emigrant to her home.
The great lakes are the prominent feature of the north- west and of the country. Stretching from the State of New- York beyond the extreme north-western boundaries of Michi- gan, they will soon furnish a continuous line of navigation from the remotest shores of Lake Superior to the Gulf of Mexi- co through the Mississippi, and to the Atlantic Ocean through the St. Lawrence. Nor is the scenery of the lakes less remark- able than their commercial advantages. In advancing from New-York through Lake Erie, Pennsylvania bounds a part of its southern shore, and exhibits the thriving settlement of Erie, her only port on that lake ; and further onward, Ohio is met on the same line, with its heavily timbered banks. Cleave- land, a flourishing city, soon appears, showing in its new but muscular aspect the evidence of a vigorous enterprize ; and a little onward, the village of Sandusky heaves in sight. In approaching its western shore, between the wooded islands which dot that part of the lake, the land appears more low, damp, and level. In advancing towards the coast of Michi- gan, and up through the Detroit River and the transparent waters of the Lake and River St. Clair, a new aspect of things
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is presented. The Michigan shore of the lake exhibits hea- vily timbered forests, indented at wide distances by small vil- lages, which seem to fill up the entire space of the clearings which are made in the forest ; and the evidence of foreign influence is soon seen in the character of the improvements. The inlets which divide the stream give a picturesque cha- racter to the view ; and both the Canadian and American sides of the Detroit River, the Lake and River St. Clair, exhi- bit the little cottages of the old French peasantry, construct- cd sometimes of planed logs, and surrounded by orchards of pear and apple trees, whose seed was brought from the pro- vinces of France during the age of Louis XIV. Behind these orchards are narrow fields enclosed with pickets ; while here and there, amid the continuous settlement, a windmill is seen ; or a little chapel, surmounted by the cross, evinces that the religion of the class of French settlers is Catholic. Indeed, the mixed French and English character of the little villages of Malden, Sandwich, and Amherstburgh on the British side of the strait, the silence and pastoral quietude of the scene, are strongly contrasted with the activity, as well as the sturdy and substantial form of architecture which pre- vails upon the American bank. The comparative growth of the two sides of the strait, and the genius of the two govern- ments, are shown by the fact that while Canada presents on this line only a few small settlements, Detroit has advanced within a short period to a population of more than ten thou- sand.
At the head of the river St. Clair, Lake Huron spreads it- self out in a surface as clear as crystal, bounded on the north- ern coast of Michigan by thickly timbered and uninhabited shores. Lake Michigan expands toward the south with bold banks of sand, sloping glades, and dense forests ; disclosing the cities of Green Bay and Milwaukee in the Wisconsin territo- ry, and Chicago in Illinois. Last of all, though first in mag- nitude, Lake Superior stretches itself out like the Atlantic, Navigated only by the bark canoes of the Indians, or the tra- ders which skulk along its shores, or the two or three small vessels of the Hudson's Bay or the American Fur Company,
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HISTORY OF MICHIGAN.
which have appropriated the British or American side to the Fur trade, seemingly disdainful of civilization, which is subduing the adjoining region, and bowing to none but God ; it sleeps like a mirror, or heaves and dashes its surges against rugged and rocky shores, which are almost as silent and so- litary as they have been since the creation.
The causes of the slow progress of improvement when this vast domain was under the French domination, are obvious. They are founded on the policy of the French Government and the character of the people. It has been seen that the French colonists were wanting in energy and enterprise. They were laboring under a political servitude, which, if the genius of the people had been active, would necessarily have cramp- ed their operations. The policy of the laws prevented settle- ment, and the colonists were devoted to the employment of seigneurs in the prosecution of the Fur trade .* Without that stability and perseverance which might have enabled them to become substantial tenants, encouraging settlement and advancing the progress of agriculture, their enjoyments consisted in traversing the lakes, in shooting the buffaloes which moved along the shores of Michigan, or across the vast prairies of Illinois, like black pirate fleets upon the ocean.t And they were contented with their lot ; for the forests swarm- ed with game, the rivers with fish, water-fowl blackened the crystal shores of the streams, or fed in the sedgy marshes
The whole system of operation under the French Government, as has been before seen, was singular. In Michigan the accounts were kept in beaver skins, and if these were wanting, other furs were received in payment for goods, after having been reduced to their value in beaver skins. As late as 1765, beaver, at Michilimackinac was two shillings and sixpence per pound, " Michilimackinac currency ;" otter skins were six shillings each ; marlin was one shilling and six- pence ; and other peltries were in like proportion. The prices for a Strond blank- et were ten beaver skins, for a white blanket eight, a pound of powder two, a pound of shot or of ball one, a gun twenty, an axe of one pound weight two, a knife one. Peltrics were generally used as a circulating medium in the absence of a better currency, although the notes and coin of Quebec and Montreal some- times found their way to the lake ports. See Henry's Travels, p. 195.
t The buffalo paths are now seen on the prairies of Illinois. They formerly roamed on the banks of the Detroit River, but have since been driven to the plains of Missouri and the base of the Rocky Mountains.
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which fringed them, and the wide savannahs of this region, and the clustering grapes which hung from the trees, remind- ed them of the champaign districts of France, from which they emigrated.
The same general causes impeded the growth of the coun- try after the English obtained its dominion. It was then held as a matter of conquest, and settlement was encouraged only so far as it might tend to support the military establishments whichi were erected for its defence. Troops were quartered on the coun- try to defend it from invasion, and individuals were prohibited from purchasing tracts of the savages, or from making any set- tlements, unless by the permission of the English monarch. Nor had population advanced into this quarter in sufficient strength to stamp their influence upon the country. Accordingly we find that there are but few vestiges of foreign enterprise in that portion of the territory which now belongs to the United States.
Even after the treaty of 1783, which ceded the north-west- ern territory to the United States, and liberal cessions had been made by the eastern States to the General Government, the country remained a comparative wilderness. The confe- deration of the Indians upon the lakes opposed the advance of emigration. Even the few settlers who had established them- selves upon the banks of the Muskingum found their path beset by savages, who were influenced by that vindictive jea- lousy which they at this time entertained toward the Ameri- can people ; and while the emigrants held the rifle near them as a defence against the savages, they were obliged to wield their axes upon the oaks which beset their path. Indeed, it was only about forty years since that the State of Michigan came into the possession of the United States, and American emi- grants had scarcely obtained a strong foot-hold upon the soil, when the war of 1812 broke out, which resulted in the devas- tation of the territory.
When the last peace was declared, and the possession of Michigan was regained, formidable obstacles were op- posed to its progress in a fear of the Indians and the igno- rance which prevailed respecting the resources of the inte- rior. The low belt of soil which borders its surrounding
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HISTORY OF MICHIGAN.
lakes was deemed a specimen of the whole territory. The interior was occupied, for the most part, by Indians and trad- ers, who had just emerged from a struggle with the United States to secure the domain. But few motives were present- ed under these circumstances for any thorough explorations. It wasfor theinterest of these traders and Indians to describe the country as low, wet, and almost submerged by swamps .* When an occasional party adventured into the forest, their horses sunk deep in the mire which abounds along the frontier ; and they were induced to return without advancing further, for their own experience confirmed the current reports. They were not aware of what facts have since proved, that the cell- tral portion of Michigan abounded with a dry, undulating, and fertile soil, in every way adapted to the purposes of agricul- ture. Accordingly it was twenty years since believed that what 110w constitutes the State of Michigan was a vast morass, sur- rounded only by a narrow rim of inhabitable land.
After the survey had been made of the territory, the public lands brought into market, and the Erie Canal had been con- structed, the full action of American enterprise was felt upon the north-west. It appears that the present convenient mode of surveys, which is now employed, was first recommended by General William H. Harrison in 1799, when a delegate of the north-western territory. Albert Gallatin subsequently gave his aid in the framing of the law which was afterwards established for that object. Prior to the year 1820, the price demanded by government for land was two dollars by the acre, one fourth of which was required to be paid on the pur- chase, and the remainder in three annual instalments ; a dis- count of eight per cent being allowed if the whole amount was paid in advance, but subject to forfeiture on failure of payment. The operation of this system was found to be attended with evil consequences. The quality of the soil, and the probable ad- vance of its value, induced many to adventure into large pur-
* The savages always opposed the progress of settlement. The first survey- ors of Michigan met with opposition from the Indians. At a place called Battle Creek, in this State, the surveyors and Indians came to open warfare. Hence arose that name.
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chases ; and while a few realized fortunes by their investments, others did not possess the means of paying their instalments, and consequently lost the whole. Land was diminished in va- lue on account of the large quantity in market. The whole po- pulation became purchasers. Produce was increased in the amount raised, in such a degree as to exceed the demand for its consumption ; and the profit from that source was also cut off, while the emigrants required labor and money in order to im- prove their farms. The purchase of lands and the importa- tion of foreign goods drained the population of their means ; the amount raised and the market for products were not suffi- cient to equalize the balance of trade. The credit system was, however, soon abolished. Tracts might be purchased in small- er quantities, and the price affixed was one dollar and a quar- ter for the aere ; which would enable the husbandman, by the labor of a week, to procure sufficient land to maintain him for the year .*
From the recent emigration, the development of the re- sources of the country, the establishment of public works, the increased commerce of the lakes, which opens a ready mar- ket to all the productions of the west, the state of things has become much changed ; and it is found, that those who are willing to exert their enterprise in agricultural labor seldom fail to receive bountiful returns, as all the productions which are not required by the local population find a ready market at the east. Large capitalists secure a profitable subject of in- vestment in advancing the progress of those improvements which are now going on, and everywhere the motives for production are increased.
It is to the period of the introduction of the public land into market, and the establishment of internal improvements, furnishing a market for the products of the soil, that the growth of the State of Michigan, as well as the other north- western States, may be dated. The agricultural classes of the eastern population, which comprised the great body of the emigrants, were induced to advance into this region, where
* See Hall's Statistics of the West.
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HISTORY OF MICHIGAN.
the best legal title could be procured to the richest soil, and the labor of a week would provide sufficient land for their support during a year. We here subjoin a table from the of- ficial revision, which exhibits the growth of the north-west- ern territory at the different periods of the enumeration. Some variations are to be considered as depending upon the change of state and territorial boundaries.
STATES.
1800
1810
1820
1830
1838
Ohio,
45,365 230,760 581,434 937,903 1,600,000
Indiana,
4,875
24,520 147,178 343,031
600,000
Illinois,
2,282
55,211 157,455
525,000
Michigan,
4,762
8,896| 31,639
175,000
Wisconsin,
* 18,148
Total population in 1838, according to the received estimate,
2,918,148
Numerous causes combine, which will eventually make the State of Michigan among the most prominent of the north- west ; the principal of which are, the fact that it is almost en- circled by the great lakes, and that it possesses a fertile soil, various in its character, possessing but little waste land, and capable of holding a dense population. The rich, black mould of the timbered land, the best quality of whose soil is indicated by a growth of black walnut, white wood, ash, buck-eye, and sugar maple, is eminently adapted to agricul- ture. Although there are parts of timbered land which con- tain a growth of sugar maple, these are comparatively few ; such tracts comprise a most fertile soil. When deadened, the trees are easily burned ; but when green, are hard to cut. The poorest quality of this species of land is that on which there is a growth of beech and soft maple, and that soil is a grey sand based on a stratum of blue clay. The average price of clearing and fencing this soil is believed to be about fifteen dollars per acre. It is, however, not unfrequently the case that potashes are made upon the soil in sufficient quantity to pay for the clearing and fencing. The first crop of corn may be got in with the hoe, and will often yield 40 bushels to the acre ; it is excellent for grass and wheat, is often watered
* See American Almanack for 1838.
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ITS PROSPECTS.
by clear springs, and produces vegetation a fortnight earlier than the openings.
Along the margin of the streams of Michigan are what are called bottom lands, sometimes running back a mile from the bank ; maintaining the same general character with the heavily timbered forest, and bounded frequently by a ridge of an average height of twenty feet. From these bluffs springs often gush out, and flow into the streams. During the freshets these bottom lands are most generally overflowed. Saw logs, of black walnut and white wood, as well as other forest trees, are obtained when the stream is of sufficient depth to admit of rafts in sufficient quantity to pay for the clearing. This land is favorable for corn, which will yield in greater quantity than the timbered uplands. It is also adapted to English grass, which, got in with the harrow in the fall, will produce two tons to the acre. This, in the present scarcity of that article, is a profitable crop.
There is a striking contrast presented in the oak openings of Michigan. Comprised, as they are, of white oaks inter- spersed with black and yellow oaks, as well as hickory, ma- ny of the trees have a shaft of sixty feet of hewing timber. The growth of hickory indicates a soil of bright yellow loam. Being free from under-growth, it produces wheat of the first character, as the grain is plump and round, and free from smut or cheat. In preparing this land for cultivation, the ordinary course for the emigrant is, to cut down and roll together all the timber under the size of a foot in diameter, together with the fallen and dead timber ; to girdle the re- mainder when he has taken off enough rail timber to fence it ; to break up the land in the months of June and July, the sap being then in the grass, and causing the turf sooner to rot ; and then sow a bushel and a half of wheat to each acre by the middle of September. The expense of doing this will probably be about ten dollars per acre. The first crop of wheat will be about twelve bushels per acre, which will be annually increased until it amounts to thirty bushels. In the openings there is also another description of timber and soil. The growth is frequently a grove of small trees, not more
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HISTORY OF MICHIGAN.
than eight inches in diameter, and of uniform size. Perhaps an occasional plain without vegetation, breaks the scene ; with here and there a tall and thrifty oak springing from a yellow loam, and on a gently undulating soil.
Openings, which adjoin timbered land, are not unfrequently distinguished by an under-growth of bushes ten feet high, consisting, among other products, of sassafras, hazel, and hickory. The soil of the openings is loose ; and the grass, although sometimes growing knee high, and affording a beau- tiful range for stock, is not closely matted together like that of the prairies ; so that three yoke of cattle are generally sufficient to break it up.
Each kind of openings is subject to what are called grubs. These are formed by the fires which annually run through the woods, and burn the tops of the vegetation, leaving a root which spreads over the ground sometimes three feet square, and is firmly imbedded in the soil. Six yoke of cattle are fre- quently required to tear up these grubs, which is done by the plough. It is often necessary to hitch one yoke of cattle on the rear of the plough, and pull it back three or four feet before it can go on. The expense of clearing this land will depend, in great measure, upon the conveniences at hand. An occasion- al pond or running brook furnishes abundant water; and water may also be found by digging twenty-five feet.
The soil of the burr-oak plains, being of a deep brown sand or loam, is more productive than openings. It is easily broken up when free from grubs, and can be improved at less expense when lying convenient to oak openings and tim- bered land; the burr-oaks being generally eight inches in di- ameter, of a scrubby nature, and thinly scattered over the surface of the soil. The length from the body to the root of the tree generally maintains an average of abont fourteen feet. As the burr-oak is difficult to split, it does not usually make more than one rail ; and the soil, like that of the open- ings, grows black by cultivation, which is caused by the lime which makes up a great part of its composition, producing the finest crops of wheat : it is not equal to the timbered land for corn or grass. The usual cost of breaking and fencing
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ITS PROSPECTS.
this land is about ten dollars for the acre ; and the purest wa- ter may be obtained by digging twenty-five feet.
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