USA > Missouri > Jackson County > Kansas City > Kansas City, Missouri : its history and its people 1808-1908 > Part 10
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Diamond Spring
IfNy CY.
Rue
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A
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Pawnee Room.
Littla Arkansas
AUBR
Fort Larned
Purblu
Caches
AVM TYM
Timpas
Band Cy.
Hole in the
Rock
Purgatory
Lower Spring
Middle, Spring
Willow Bari
Upper Springo
Cimarron
Ralon
Canadian
-
River
Rabbit Ear Cr.
Round Mound
Commeran CAleo
River
Ruck C
Fernando de Taos
River
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La Canada
MAP OF
SANTA FE
" LAS VEGAS,
THE OLD SANTA FÉ TRAIL
Pecos
San Jose
Compiled for Col. Henry Inman 1896
Cusano Tacalos
Puens Riter
OJO OE VERNAL
165º
004
10%
101ª
00
97
W C. HILTS, OLT.
LA
ARKAN8A8
RIter
RIVER
Fort Dodge
Hole in Prai
Charron Crossing
AND
Colorado Springs
FORT
Pawnu Forks
ATCHISON
Hutchlion ************** Newton
BENTS FORT.
Plumb Buttes
Fort Zarah
Walnut Cr.
Cottonwood Cracks
Emporia
The Hand
TTOPENA
"Fork
Kansas
TOPEKA
Hakkar
A
NaA Cr.
Choteau's Island
TORY
I
ERR
Canon
TOPEKA
Wagon Mound
D
Furt Union
36
San Migu
-
TERMINUS OF OLD SANTA FE TRAIL
153
HISTORY OF KANSAS CITY
aries, who, with the zeal of their calling, reduced the natives to a state of sub- jection and forced them to work in the various mines of gold, silver and tur- quoise, and to attend worship on Sundays in the chapel of San Miguel.
The earliest record of Santa Fe is found in the accounts of the wander- ings of Cabeza de Vaca and Coronado while on their explorations in search of gold in 1540. Three hundred years later, from the town of Old Franklin in Missouri, a party of men started, and, along a tortuous path, about seven hundred miles in length, afterward known as the Santa Fe trail, carried the first merchandise into the quaint old town of Santa Fe.
"When the masts of the Mayflower yet grew in the forest and the Pil- grim Fathers' fathers yet slept in their cradles, Cabeza de Vaca, a Spanish Æneas, led his shipwrecked party through the Rio Grande valley." The Spanish adventurers saw the advantage of the situation of Santa Fe as a strategic point, and there, in 1605, established their headquarters and base of supplies. The Pueblo Indians fought for their freedom again and again, but readily were subdued by their captors. At last, about 1688, they were successful in over- throwing the Spanish authority and were independent for twelve years.
The Spaniards were driven out of the country; the priests were tortured in very conceivable way, mutilated and their bodies left a prey to the wild beasts. Every vestige of Spanish rule was obliterated. The people were com- manded to forget their conquerors, not to remember anything that had been taught by them. In their twelve years of freedom the natives returned to their ancient ways, and a vow was forced upon each one that no foreigner ever again should know of their mines. The official records of the Spanish dominion were used as fuel for a bonfire in the plaza. The Spanish again gained supremacy in 1700, but with the promise that the mines were not to be worked. The rich mines in the vicinity of Santa Fe were not opened until the nineteenth century, when the American prospectors entered New Mexico.
In the earlier years of the Santa Fe trade, before the route had been es- tablished, the merchandise was conveyed in packs by men and animals. The caravans in 1824 and 1825 were composed partly of pack animals and partly of wagons. Wagons were used almost exclusively after 1826. The regula- tion high box "prairie schooner" was introduced about 1839. These wagons were drawn by five to ten yoke of oxen or as many teams of mules, and had a carrying capacity of about three tons.
The first American trader to penetrate his way to Santa Fe was James Pursley, an adventurer who had heard strange stories of the city and its in- habitants. While Pursley was wandering over the unexplored regions west of the Mississippi river he met a band of Indians on the Platte river who gave him information concerning the settlements in New Mexico. In company with
154
IIISTORY OF KANSAS CITY
the savages he went to Santa Fe in 1805 with a small pack of goods. He re- mained there. worked as a carpenter and accumulated a small fortune. Purs- ley was kept under close surveillance by the Mexicans who were extremely suspicious of foreigners. He was forbidden to write letters. Parsley re- mained in Santa Fe until his death.
The first commercial enterprise of any consequence from the North came in 1804 through a leading merchant of the Mississippi valley. William Mor- rison. of Kaskaskia, Ill .. who also had heard of the city of Santa Fe, and as an experiment sent Baptiste La Lande, a French Creole, to introduce his goods into New Mexico. A small assortment of cotton goods and other fab- ries was taken to Santa Fe with the view of establishing a trade with the Mexicans. La Lande reached his destination after a severe journey and was kindly received by the people who bought his goods. The Mexicans, desir- ing to have the trader become a resident, gave him land and other induce- ments. La Lande did not anticipate the return trip with any degree of pleas- ure : he forgot his obligation to his employer, William Morrison, and sojourned among the Mexicans. The supposition is that the residents of Santa Fe de- tained La Lande there for fear of innovations from the North. should he re- turn to his native land and report the commercial conditions in New Mexico.
The first officer of the United States government to visit Santa Fe was Lieutenant Zebulon Montgomery Pike. of the Sixth United States infantry, the discoverer of Pike's Peak. The government sent him on an exploring expedition up the Arkansas river in 1806, with instructions to travel to the sources of the Red river, for which the head waters of the Canadian river then were mistaken. Pike entered Kansas near Xenia in Bourbon county, September 5. 1806. and traveled to the village of the Pawnee republic, where, September 29. 1805. he held a conference with the Pawnee Indians and had the Spanish flag hauled down and the United States flag raised for the first time in the territory now included in the state of Kansas.
It was inevitable that Pike's journey should lead him into Spanish ter- ritory. He passed around the headwaters of the Canadian river and, crossing the mountains with great suffering and peril. descended upon the Rio del Norte with his party of fifteen men. Believing himself to be on the Red river, within the bounds of the United States. he erected small fortifications for his company to be used until the opening of the spring of 1807. when he might be enabled to continne his journey. As Pike was within Mexican territory, within sixty to eighty miles from the northern settlements, his position soon was discovered by the Mexicans and a force sent to capture him.
Lieutenant Pike was the victim of a treacherous deceit on the part of the Mexicans. The Mexican officer when he arrived at the camp informed the explorer that the Spanish governor. learning that he had lost his way, had
INDIAN ALARM ON THE CIMARRON RIVER
ARRIVAL OF THE CARAVAN AT SANTA FE
157
HISTORY OF KANSAS CITY
sent animals and an escort to convey him to a navigable point on the Red river and that his Excellency desired to see him in Santa Fe before he took leave of the country. The offer was accepted, but Pike soon learned that he was a prisoner instead of a guest. The governor sent Pike to the Commandant General in Chihuahua, where most of his papers were seized and he and his party were escorted to the United States border.
Previous to the American trade, New Mexico had no outside market for its products and no source of supply except Old Mexico, through Chihua- hua. The Mexicans exported sheep, buffalo robes, dressed deer, salt, tobacco and finely wrought copper vessels. In return came cotton, silk and velvet, confections, arms, iron, steel, ammunition and choice liquors. High grade imported cloth, according to Pike's account, sold in Santa Fe as high as $20 to $25 a yard, linen at $4 a yard and other dry goods in proportion.
SANTAFE
THE SANTA FE TRAIL
SANTA FE TRAIL MARKER
An expedition of twelve men, under the leadership of Robert McKnight, James Baird and Samuel Chambers, went to Santa Fe in 1812. The traders were induced to make the journey in the belief that the Spanish authority in Mexico had been overthrown by Hidalgo, the revolutionary chief, and that they would find the baneful customs and regulations that were prohibi- tive to foreign trade, removed. But the adventurers were destined to suffer trials and hardships of which they had formed no conception. While the merchants were making the long journey across the plains the Hidalgo move- ment failed and the patriot was captured and slain. The Spanish authorities were intensely suspicious of Americans at that time and when the luckless traders arrived their goods were seized and they were arrested as spies and thrown into the "calabozos" of Chihuahua, where they remained in rigorous confinement for nine years.
¥ 35
SIW
THIS MARKS THE ROUTE OF THE SANTA FE TRAIL KANSAS CITY TO SANTA FE 1822-1885
SANTA FE TRAIL MARKER
-
SANTA FE TRAIL MARKER IN PENN VALLEY PARK
161
HISTORY OF KANSAS CITY
When the republican forces under Iturbide gained the ascendency the traders were set at liberty. John McKnight, brother to the trader, went to New Mexico in 1821 and both returned with several other traders in 1822. Baird also returned in 1822. Chambers returned to the United States in the fall of 1821 in a canoe down the Canadian fork of the Arkansas river.
Old Franklin may be called the "Cradle of the Santa Fe trade." In the early days of the trade the town was the most important in Missouri west of St. Louis; it was two hundred and five miles west by river from St. Louis, and one hundred and eighty-seven miles east below the mouth of the Kaw river, opposite the present site of Booneville, Mo. The early expeditions to Santa Fe started from Old Franklin. Nothing remains to mark the site of the town of Old Franklin, the entire town site having been washed into the river in 1828. The town of New Franklin now stands one mile back from the river.
Captain William Becknell is regarded as the founder of the Santa Fe trade and the "Father of the Santa Fe Trail," having made the first success- ful trading trip to Santa Fe. He was the first to pass along the general route followed later. Captain Becknell, in 1821, with four trusty compan- ions, started from Old Franklin, Howard county, Mo., to trade with the Comanche Indians, carrying their goods in packs upon their backs. They, however, fell in with a party of Mexican rangers and were persuaded to go to Santa Fe, where they disposed of their merchandise at a good profit. Becknell returned to the United States the succeeding winter and on June 10, 1822, had an advertisement in the Missouri Intelligencer of Old Franklin, Mo., calling for a company of seventy men "to go westward for the purpose of trading for horses and mules and catching wild animals of every descrip- tion." Although Santa Fe was not mentioned in the announcement it was understood that it was the destination. Becknell's party of thirty men and about $5,000 worth of merchandise started from Old Franklin August 4, 1822, crossed the Missouri river at Arrow Rock, Mo., September 1; reached the Arkansas river September 24, and Santa Fe, November 16, 1822. Beck- nell received enormous prices for his goods in Santa Fe; he sold plain do- mestic cotton for $2 to $3 a yard. Becknell had discovered a rich field for trade and returned to Old Franklin to tell of his wonderful "Inck." Other and larger trading trips soon followed.
The first wagon train, or caravan, of any importance to Santa Fe started in the early spring of 1823 from Old Franklin, Mo. The expedition was followed in 1824 by Francis Storrs, also of Old Franklin. When he returned from Santa Fe he made an elaborate report to Senator Thomas H. Benton, concerning the wonderful trade possibilities with New Mexico and Northern
162
HISTORY OF KANSAS CITY
Old Mexico. Senator Benton induced Congress to make an appropriation to survey the Santa Fe trail and appoint a commission to treat with the Little Osage and the Great Osage tribes of Indians who claimed most of the land through which the road was to pass.
The commissioners appointed by the government met the representatives of the Osage tribes, August 10, 1825, under the oak trees near the present site of Council Grove, Kas., and, after negotiations that lasted several days, concluded a treaty in which the Indians granted concessions for the estab- lishment of the Santa Fe trail. The town derived its name from this cele- brated council.
It required three years to survey the road and gain proper recognition for the route. Water determined the line of the roadway, and the camping places were as fixed as the trail itself. About five hundred miles of the Santa Fe trail was in the present state of Kansas. The trail entered the state from the east near the town of Glenn in Johnson county, according to HIiram M. Chittenden in his "History of the American Fur Trade," and crossed the following counties: Johnson, Douglas, Osage. Wabaunsee, Lyon, Morris, Marion, McPherson, Rice, Barton, Pawnee. Edwards. Ford, Gray, Haskell, Grant, Stevens and Marion. Chittenden gives the more important camping places on the Santa Fe trail with the distance in miles from Independence : Blue Camp, 20; "A charming spot on the western boundary of Missouri." Round Grove, or Lone Elm, 35; a regular stopping place.
Oregon Trail junction, 43. There on the naked prairie stood a sign post with the inscription, "Road to Oregon."
Black Jack point, 47; so called from the dwarf oak trees growing there.
The Narrows, 65; "a narrow ridge which separates the Osage and Kansas rivers."
"One Hundred and Ten Mile" creek. 100. The name of this creek refers to its distance from old Fort Osage.
Bridge creek, 108.
Switzler's creek, 116; "a fine running water."
Council Grove, 150. This was one of the most important stopping places on the trail. The thickly wooded river bottom at this point, one-half a mile to one mile in width and of indefinite length. afforded an abundant supply of wood for the campers. The caravans usually went to Council Grove in detached parties and there met in council and organized for the perilous journey across the plains. The caravans usually elected captains and other minor officers.
Diamond spring, 165; "a crystal fountain discharging itself into a small brook, to which in recent years, caravans have sometimes advanced before or- ganizing."
RAMSEY MURLETT HUDSON!
"KAN"
PAWNEE ROCK.
165
HISTORY OF KANSAS CITY
Lost spring, 180. Cottonwood creek, 192. Turkey creek, 217. Little Arkansas, 234. Cow creek, 254.
Arkansas river, 270. This stream, which for all its length west of the 100th meridian was the frontier between the United States and Spanish ter- ritories, was of great importance to the traders in that region. It was not navigable in that part of its course, unless the possibility of descending in light craft in flood time entitles it to that distinction. Its importance arose in part from the fact of its being the national frontier, and partly because the coun- try around its headwaters was rich trapping territory. The road followed along the left bank of the river.
Walnut creek, 278.
Pawnee Rock, 293. This rock was to the Santa Fe trail what the Inde- pendence rock was to the Oregon trail. It was a mass of sandstone that rose twenty fect high on the right hand side of the road, about two miles back from the river. The rock was covered with inscriptions both by the white men and Indians. "Here was a confused medley of cognomens," an early traveler said. "English, French, Spanish, German, Irish, Scotch-all entered upon the register of fancied immortality." Some of the names re- corded on Pawnee Rock found a permanent place in Western history. The name of the rock, according to tradition, "came from a siege there, once upon a time, of a small party of Pawnces by the Comanche hordes; the rocky mound was impregnable, but alas for valor! They were parched with thirst, and the shining river glided in their sight through green meadows! They drank their horses' blood and vowed to Wah-Condah that their fates should be one. Death before slavery! Finally in a desperate effort to cut their way to liberty, they all met heroic death; ushering their spirits with defiant shouts to the very threshold of the happy hunting grounds! The Comanches, after their melancholy success, were full of admiration and erected on the summit a small pyramid which we see to this day."
Ash creek, 297.
Pawnee Fork, 303.
Coon creek, 336.
"The Caches," 372; so named from the fact that James Baird and Sam- uel Chambers, two of the unfortunate men who were imprisoned in Santa Fe nine years, when they made a return trip in 1822 were forced to stop at that place and "cache," or conceal their goods, having lost their animals in the severe winter, they camped there. The term cache, meaning a place of con- cealment in the ground, seems to have been used originally by the French
the only dif- the attacks. s disturbance icathy from Digest.ve or to two cases e the same
above number
n21t.
CHICK & CO., Agents, Kansas City.
----
SANTA FE, N. M.
UNITED STATES MAIL. FROM INDEPENDENCE TO SANTA FE
NEW
MEXICO
SEMI- MONTHLY
5 ANTA FE Traders, and those desirous of crossing the Plains to New Mexico, are informed that the undersigned will carry the United States Mail, from Inde- pendence to Santa Fe, for four years, commencing on the first day of July, 1857, in stages drawn by six mules.
r anyone ted. can iption of ct them, Write to- Kansas
in hard ith pay.
The Stages will leave Independence and Santa Fe on the first and fifteenth of each month They will be entirely new, and comfortable for passengers well guarded, and running through each way, in from twenty to twenty-five days. Travellers to and from New Mexico, will doubtless find this the safest, and most expeditions and comfortable, as well as the cheapest mode of crossing the plains.
FARE THROUGH
From November Ist to May 1st .. ... $150 00 May 1st to November Ist ..... 125 00 Provisions, arms and ammunition fur- nished by the proprietors.
if this Indi- Stom- re yoll,
Packages and extra baggage will be transported when possible to do so, at the rate of 35 cents per pound in summer, and 50 cents in winter, but no package will be charged less than one dollar.
on the of the 1s the gestive
The proprietors will not be responsible for any package worth more than fifty dollars, unless contents given and special- ly contracted for, and all baggage at all times at the risk of the owner thereof.
. com- ls and ent to isery ! cover IEDY
In all cases the passage money must be paid in advance, and passengers must stipulate to conform to the rules which may be established by the under- signed, for the government of their line of stages, and those travelling with them on the plains.
1906. essing 1 my over ns in ve it some nson
No passenger allowed more than forty pounds of baggage in addition to the necessary bedding.
Mr. Levi Speidieburg, at Santa Fe, and J & W R. Bernard & Co., at Westport, Mo., and our conductor and agents are authorised to engage passengers and re- ceipt for passage money HOCKADY & HALL.
July 1S. 1857.
n42-tf
wh
BAKERY AND CONFECTIONERY. The undersigned announce to the Pub- lic that they keep on hand at all times a fine assortment of Fancy Candies, Frui. Nute and all ki- of Cakes to sui
th
ADVERTISEMENT OF THE SANTA FE TRAIL FROM JOURNAL OF 1858
Treatment I feel
T he proper 1 as successful v me and now, I thanking you f while treating
CAN
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Dr. Cath ful figure successtu show you ceeds w} to send charge, free. BEI
cured afflict.
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FORM
you for t anyone t them to STEW. the f
P. S weeks The the 1 perso that ? lives
have cured able from .ne appro- ere is not fficient to of a cure :tainty of
common lese de- o obtain COM- .S, 355B,
A PACK TRAIN TO SANTA FE. 1820
FORT ZARAH
169
HISTORY OF KANSAS CITY
trappers and hunters. The location of "The Caches" was five miles west of the site of Dodge City, Kas.
Ford of the Arkansas river, 392. This was the regular crossing after 1829 and was known as the Cimarron crossing. Its location was twenty miles above Dodge City. The ford was about half way between Independence and Santa Fe.
Battle ground, 407; so called from a battle in which a small band of Texans defeated a larger band of Mexicans.
Cimarron river, Lower spring, 450. This "river" had no water flowing in its bed in the dry season except at the springs. This part of the route was especially dreaded because of the scarcity of water.
Middle spring of the Cimarron, 486.
Willow Bar, 512.
Upper spring, 530.
Cold spring, 535; at this point the road left the valley of the Cimarron river.
McNees' creek, 560. This was the site of one of the melancholy tragedies of the trail. McNees and Daniel Munroe, traders of Franklin, Mo., started to return from Santa Fe in the summer of 1828. The exact circumstances of their death are not known, but it is supposed that Pawnee Indians crept up to the traders as they slept near the caravan and shot them with their own guns. MeNees was found lifeless and was buried on the banks of the stream that bore his name. Monroe lived several hours after he was found before he died. He was buried in the valley of the Cimarron.
Rabbit Ear creek, 580. This name arose from the fancied resemblance of two hills near-by to rabbit's ears. The elevations were a guide to travel- ers on that part of the journey. It was near the head of Rabbit Ear creek that Major Stephen H. Long passed in 1820 in his futile search for the Red river.
Round Mound, 588; a notable landmark that was important as a guide to travelers before the route had been fully established. The height of the mound above the plain was six hundred and ten feet.
Rock creek, 596.
Point of Rocks, 615.
Rio Colorado, 635. This stream was supposed to be the upper course of Red river until 1820 when Major Stephen H. Long discovered that it was the upper course of the Canadian river.
Ocate creek, 641.
Santa Clara spring, near Wagon Mound, 662. It was there that the mountain branch from Bent's fort joined the main trail.
170
HISTORY OF KANSAS CITY
Rio Mora, 684; last of the Canadian waters.
Rio Gallinas, 704.
Ojo de Bernal spring, 721.
San Miguel, 727; the first settlement of any consequence before reaching Santa Fe. Pecos village, 750.
Santa Fe, 775.
Wetmore's gazeteer of Missouri, for 1837, gives the list of places and distances from New Franklin through Independence to Santa Fe as follows: From New Franklin to Independence in Jackson County :
MILES.
To Arrow Rock 12
" Smith's 10
" Carthay's 20
" Grand Pass 12
" Demoss' 2
Webb's 6
" Lexington 25
" Rennick's 12
" Independence 28
From Jackson County to Santa Fe:
MILES.
To Camp Grove 16
Big Blue river ford 20
Round Grove
Belmont 14
Left-Hand Grove 20
18
Right-Hand Grove 18
" Elk Creek 5
" Marie des Cignes 11
Rock Creek 5
" Prairie Camp 13
" Indian Camp 9
High-water Creek 15
" Council Grove on Neosho S
" Plain Creek 5
" Diamond Spring S
" Prairie Spring S
" Hook's Spring (in prairie) S
" Cottonwood Grove 13
" Lake Camp 18
SANTA FE STACE CO.
THE SANTA FE STAGE COMPANY. NORTH WEST CORNER OF SECOND AND MAIN STREETS
173
HISTORY OF KANSAS CITY
To Small Creek
MILES
20
" Little Arkansas 18
" Branch of Cow Creek 12
" Main Cow Creek
13
" Arkansas river
15
" Walnut Creek (up the Arkansas) 20
" Ash Creek
24
" Pawnee Fork of Arkansas
8
" Plain Camp 15
" Little Pond
21
" Small Drain 20
" Anderson's Caches on the Arkansas
20
" Pond Camp west of Arkansas river
7
" The Two Ponds
22
" Several Ponds
19
" The Lake
12
" Sandy Creek
12
" Lone Pond
14
" Small Pool 22
" The Semiron
S
" The Lower Spring
2
" Salt Camp
8
" Nitre Camp
21
" The Willows
7
" Saltpetre Camp, in view of Sugarhouse Mound 10
" Upper Semiron spring
10
" Seven Mile Creek
7
" Drain Camp 8
" Two Pools
17
" Rocky Pool 8
" Bad Water 7
" Sugar Loaf
5
" Kiawa Camp 10
" Sabine Camp 15
" Round Mound 4
" Rocky Branch 12
" Summit Level, in view of Rocky
Mountains 8
" Harl's Camp 6
" Point of Rocks
10
174
IIISTORY OF KANSAS CITY
To Deep Hollow MILES
7 .
" Canadian Fork 15
" Mule Creek 6
" Pilot Knobs 19
" Tar Kiln Grove 20
" El Moro 10
" El Sapiote 2
" Rio Las Guienas 18
" San Magil (village) 25
' Santa Fe 40
The original historian of the Santa Fe trail was Josiah Gregg, a prac- tical trader and author. His "Commerce of the Prairies," published in 1844, is regarded as the classic of the Santa Fe trail literature. A return jour- ney from Santa Fe, as described by Gregg, was characteristic of travel on the celebrated highway :
"On the 4th of April, 1838, we departed from Santa Fe. Our little party was found to consist of twenty-three Americans, with twelve Mexican ser- vants. We had seven wagons, one dearborn, and two small field pieces, be- sides a large assortment of small arms. The principal proprietors carried between them about $150,000 in specie and bullion, being for the most part the proceeds of the previous year's adventure.
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