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Gc 977.802 K13w v.1 1132496
GENEALOGY COLLECTION
ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY 3 1833 01064 5239
3
Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from Allen County Public Library Genealogy Center
http://www.archive.org/details/kansascitymissou01inwhit
KANSAS CITY MISSOURI
Its History and Its People 1808=1908
KANSAS CITY MISSOURI
Its History and Its People
1808=1908
BY CARRIE WESTLAKE WHITNEY
ADVISORY BOARD
Col. R. T. Van Horn
Rev. William J. Dalton
Sen. William Warner
John C. Gage E. M. Clendening
William H. Winants
Frances Logan
Mrs. William B. Thayer
G. Van Millett
Dr. James M. Greenwood
J. V. C. Karnes
Joseph L. Norman
Milton Moore
Frances A. Bishop
Illustrated
Vol. I
CHICAGO THE S. J. CLARKE PUBLISHING CO.
1908
COPYRIGHT, 1908, BY THE AUTHOR
1132496
Sender- 35.00 (3Vol)
MRS. CARRIE WESTLAKE WHITNEY
PREFACE
This volume as indicated by the title. "Kansas City, Missouri: its his- tory and its people," is an attempt to give the characteristics of the people who made Kansas City and further to record the more important events that have made for the development of the city.
The History of Kansas City will give the people a better appreciation of the motto of the Commercial Club, viz .: "Make Kansas City a Good Place to Live In," which originated with Mr. Frank A. Faxon. As the rec- ord of events in the growth of the city unfolds year by year, it may be inter- esting to note the hand that gave the master strokes here and there, toward the accomplishment of the spirit of this motto.
The finality of Western history still lies in the distance. The many documents on the explorations, settlements and developments of the Western states simply attest future possibilities of the West. The Western element knows no note of decadence. The glowing ambition of youth always will predominate in this Western atmosphere.
By the generous encouragement of the people of Kansas City, my work has been greatly facilitated. For chapters on special subjects I am indebted to those better fitted from their various positions to do the subjects justice.
Referring to chapters on special subjects, may be noted the complete data on the Latter Day Saints, which was recorded by Mr. Frederick M. Smith of Independence, president of the Latter Day Saints. The chapter on railroads in Kansas City was given by Mr. E. S. Jewett. Mr. Jewett was the first ticket agent to open an office in Kansas City, coming here in 1867. Mr. E. R. Crutcher, president of the real estate exchange, contributed the excellent material on realty. Two valuable papers, one on Public Utilities and another on The City Charters, place the author under great obligations to Mr. Dante Barton.
In the chapter on Civie Associations, the data relating to the Manu- facturers' and Merchants' club was received from the secretary. Mr. Justin A. Runyan ; the Business Men's league from Mr. D. M. Bone. secretary: the Civic league from Mr. A. O. Harrison : and the Commercial club from the
4
10
PREFACE
secretary, Mr. E. M. Clendening. Credit is here given to Mr. Edmond D. Bigelow, secretary of the Board of Trade, for information on the Board of Trade. The sketch of Convention Hall is used by permission of Miss S. M. Willis.
The complete history of education in Kansas City no one could better write than our worthy superintendent, Dr. J. M. Greenwood. For the com- pilation on church history, I have drawn fully from articles previously written. Credit is due to Rev. Father Dalton for the article on the Catholic church; to Bishop Hendrix for that on the Methodist Episcopal church (South) ; to the late Rev. J. O'B. Lowry for the Baptist denomination; to the late Dr. Henry Hopkins for the Congregational; for the Presbyterian denomination to Rev. John B. Hill; and for the Universalist church to Rev. Mary E. Andrews.
Mr. George F. Damon in his position as superintendent of the Asso- ciated Charities, made every effort to gather together the historical sketches of the many charitable organizations and due credit is hereby given him; also to Mr. Jacob Billikopf for the data on Jewish charities. No one in our city is more competent to tell of the fine park system and of the beautiful boulevards and parks of Kansas City, than the president of the Park Board, Mr. Franklin Hudson. The history of the art movements of Kansas City was written by Mrs. E. R. Weeks, one of our publie spirted women who has always been associated with the art movements in Kansas City. The article on the Museum was written by Miss Mabel Green. Miss Anna C. Gilday's forte in "doing things thoroughly," is shown in her excellent work on Women's Clubs. Miss Elizabeth Butler Gentry collected the notes on Social Life from the descendants of the early families of the towns of Independence, Westport and Kansas City, and I am indebted to her for an exceedingly inter- esting chapter.
Relative to authorities consulted, I do not present a complete biblio- graphical list, but only mention those of the greatest importance. The list of the most important works consulted is appended.
I have not scrupled to quote at length from "Commerce of the Prairie" by Josiah Gregg, as the author was far more capable, in his graphie style, of describing the Western country in the early days.
The valuable set of the Encyclopedia of the history of Missouri and the admirable volumes of the Kansas Historical Society publications are in themselves a mine of information.
Albach, J. R. Annals of the West.
Barns, C. R. Commonwealth of Missouri.
Billon, F. L. Annals of St. Louis.
Bone, D. M. Kansas City annals.
11
PREFACE
Boone County, History of.
Brackenridge, H. M. Journal up the Missouri, 1811. Campbell, R. A. Gazetteer of Missouri, 1875. Case, Theodore. History of Kansas City, Missouri. Central Magazine. Chanute, O. and G. Morrison. Kansas City bridge.
Chappell, Phil. History of the Missouri river.
Chittenden, H. M. American fur trades of the far West. History of early steamboat navigation on the Missouri river. Coues, Elliott. Forty years a fur trader on the Upper Missouri. Dalton, W. J. Historical sketches of Kansas City.
Davis, W. B. and D. S. Durrie. History of Missouri.
De Smet, Father. Life and letters.
. Doniphan's expedition.
Donohue, James. Greater Kansas City year book, 1904-5. Encyclopædia of the history of Missouri.
Gilpin, William. Central gold region.
Gregg, Josiah. Commerce of the Prairie.
Howard County, History of.
Howe, Henry. Historical collections of the Great West.
Inman, Henry. Old Santa Fe Trail. First Edition. 1881.
Irving, Washington. Astoria.
Tours on the Prairie. Jackson County. History of. to 1881.
Kansas State Historical Society collections.
Leftwieh, W. M. Martyrdom of Missouri.
Lewis and Clark, Journals.
McCoy. J. G. Cattle Trade.
Miller, W. H. History of Kansas City to 1881.
Paxton. W. M. Platte County annals to 1897.
Peck, J. M. Annals of the West.
Perkins, J. H. Annals of the West.
Platte County. History of, to 1885.
Scharf, J. T. St. Louis City and County.
Schoolcraft. II. R. Journal of a tour into the interior of Missouri and Arkansaw.
Switzler, W. F. History of Missouri.
Trickett, W. P. Railroad systems of Kansas City. 1857-1900.
Western History, Magazine of.
Wetmore, Alphonso. Gazetteer of Missouri. 1837.
MRS. CARRIE WESTLAKE WHITNEY.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Chapter I At the Kaw's Mouth. 19
Chapter II Independence and Westport. 32
Chapter III "Zion" Redeemed 63
Chapter IV The Town of Kansas.
Chapter V
Hills and Hollows Transposed 109
Chapter VI
The Levee Outgrown. 125
Chapter VII
On the Road to Santa Fe. 149
Chapter VIII
Civil War Period. 179
Chapter IX The New Era. 204
Chapter X
Banking and Finance. 235
Chapter XI
The Story of the Railroads 246
Chapter XII
Realty in Kansas City 260
Chapter XIII
The Public Utilities. 269
Chapter XIV
The Civic Associations. 284
Chapter XV
Education 302
Chapter XVI
Free Public Library
349
Chapter XVII
The Press
364
Chapter XVIII
Churches
402
Chapter XIX
Charities
446
Chapter XX
The Legal and Medical Professions 465
Chapter XXI
The Great Industries. 481
Chapter XXII
Federal Department in Kansas City 493
Chapter XXIII
The Newer City 504
Chapter XXIV
Revival of River Transportation 526
Chapter XXV
The City Charters. 538
Chapter XXVI
Parks and Boulevards. 569
Chapter XXVII
Art Movements in Kansas City
596
Chapter XXVIII
Women's Clubs
616
Chapter XXIX Social Life 641
Chapter XXX
Kansas City in Prophecy 663
Appendix 671
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Chapter I .- At the Kaw's Mouth.
Portrait of James Bridger. 25
Portrait of Pierre Chouteau. 18
Portrait of Father de Smet. 29
Keelboat in the Fur Trade. Indian Bullboat 23
Pioneer Steamboat, 1820-30 33
Chapter II .- Independence and Westport.
Old Westport City Hall.
61
Colonel Doniphan's Army
15
Portrait of L. W. Boggs .. 57
Portrait of Isaac and Christiana McCoy. 57
Portrait of Colonel Alexander W. Doniphan. 41
Independence Female College.
53
Two-Story Brick Depot of Independence and Wayne City Railroad, Built in 1848 Early Map of Westport, 1855.
49
37
Chapter III .- "Zion" Redeemed.
The "Mormon Bible"
65
From the Mormon Bible 71
Chapter IV .- The Town of Kansas.
Old Chick Homestead. . 89
Walnut Street Between Sixth and Ninth Streets. 105
Home of James McGee, First Brick House in Jackson County. 93
McGee's Hotel on Grand Avenue. 99
Chapter V .- Hills and Hollows Transposed.
"Petticoat Lane," Eleventh Street Between Main and Grand. 111
Main Street Looking South from Twelfth 115
Grand Avenne, North from Twelfth. 125
"The Grade" in Kansas City. 110
Wyandotte Street, from Third to the River. 114
Baltimore Avenne, from Ninth to Eleventh, in 1890. 118
Old E. D. Parson's Homestead, Eighth and Cherry, 1867. 119
Chapter VI .- The Levee Outgrown.
City Hall 147
Main Street, North from Missouri Avenue, 1867. 139
Main Street, North from Tenth, 1867. 135
Kansas City in 1852 126
Old Gillis House. 131
Kansas City, 1869. Topographical map. 143
Kansas City in 1855 127
Chapter VII .- On the Road to Santa Fe.
Advertisement of Santa Fe Trail from Journal of 1858. 166
Santa Fe Trail Markers. 158, 159, 161
Fort Zarah 167
Indian Alarm on the Cimarron River. 155
Arrival of the Caravan at Santa Fe. 155
Pawnee Rock 163
Santa Fe Trail Marker in Pennsylvaia Valley Park, Kansas City, Mo. 159
Santa Fe Stage Company Building, Second and Main. 171
Pack Train to Santa Fe, 1820. 167
Santa Fe Terminus of Old Santa Fe Trail. 151
Portrait of Josiah Gregg. 175
Map of old Santa Fe Trail 150-
1.3
14
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Chapter VIII .- Civil War Period.
Portrait of General Sterling Price. Fort Union 201
197
Chapter IX .- The New Era.
Main Street Looking North from Eleventh Street. 205
Ninth and Main Streets, Showing Junction Building .. 217
The Great Bend in the Missouri River, from an Old Print 213
The Old Exposition Building. 225
Fire Department 209
Chapter X .- Banking and Finance.
First National Bank. 241
Chapter XI .- The Story of the Railroads.
Map Showing Kansas City as a Transportation Center 247
Kansas City Bridge, 1869. 253
Building Kansas City Bridge, 1868. 257
Chapter XIII .- The Public Utilities.
Elevator for Raising and Lowering of Teams, Inter-City Viaduct 277
Chapter XV .- Education.
Central High School. 335
Westport High School. 339
Manual Training High School. 343
Washington School 307
Humboldt School 303
311
Franklin School
.315, 319, 323
Lincoln School
Morse School 331
Woodland School 327, 331
Norman School 347
Benton School
343
Map Showing Growth of School District. 338
Chapter XVI .- The Free Public Library. 351
Westport Branch Library
Public Library 351
Chapter XVII .- The Press.
Kansas City Star Building. 387
Kansas City Star Paper Mill. 387
Octuple Hoe Press, Kansas City Star 389
Journal Building 369
Photograph of R. T. Van Horn .. 373
Photograph of William Rockhill Nelson. 381
Chapter XVIII .- Churches.
Institutional Church. 415
St. Paul's Episcopal Church. 427
M. E. Church, South Mt. Washington 427
St. Francis Regis Church, First Catholic Church in Kansas City 405
Day Nursery Dining Room of Institutional Church. 415
Chapter XX .- Legal and Medical Professions.
Jackson County Courthouse. 467
Chapter XXI .- The Great Industries.
Live Stock Exchange Building. 487
Trading Pit in Board of Trade. 491
Plankinton & Armour Plant. 483
Exchange Building, 1871. 483
1
.
15
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Chapter XXII .- Federal Department in Kansas City.
Old Federal Building. New Federal Building.
495
499
Chapter XXIII .- The Newer City.
Willis Wood Theater. 515
Shubert Theater. 511
National Bank of Commerce 505
Convention Hall. 521
Chapter XXIV .- Revival of River Transportation.
Snag Boat "Suter"
535
Arrival of the Lora, 1906. 531
Portrait of Lawrence M. Jones 531
Portrait of E. C. Ellis 527
The Tennessee. 535
Chapter XXVI .- Parks and Boulevards.
Parade.
593
Cliff Drive.
571
Valentine Road. 587
Penn Valley Park.
575
Pergola on the Paseo
581
Park and Boulevard System
570
Kersey Coates Terrace. 587
North Terrace Park. 581
Chapter
XXVII .- Art Movements in Kansas City.
Portrait of George C. Bingham. 603
Order No. 11 607
Kersey Coates Terrace, Before Grading. 611
Kersey Coates Terrace, After Grading 611
Chapter
XXVIII .- Women's Clubs.
Portrait of Mrs. J. C. Horton
617
Chapter XXIX .- Social Life.
Fashions in Kansas City in Early Days. 643
Chapter XXX .- Kansas City in Prophecy.
William Gilpin's Prophetic Map, 1859 667
-
PIERRE CHOUTEAU.
KANSAS CITY MISSOURI
Its History and Its People
CHAPTER I.
AT THE KAW'S MOUTH.
It has been conceded since the earliest times that climate, soil and natural surroundings have vast importance in shaping the history of states. What is true of nations is even more true of cities. There is a good reason why every great metropolis is where it is. The physical conditions that sur- round a city-the rivers, seas, valleys, hills and plains-determine its great- ness.
In ancient and medieval times when "might made right," the clans. and tribes of the Old World sought the fastnesses of the hills where all ap- proaches might be guarded, the more easily to defend themselves from the attacks of their enemies. Changing conditions later developed systems of barter and trade, and men devoted themselves more to commercial pursuits and less to strife and warfare. In the New World adventure developed com- merce and trade demanded means of transportation. Rivers and lakes, the highways of nature, solved the problem. The location of settlements, vil- lages and cities, in pioneer days, was determined largely by the blue strips of water in the form of rivers or lakes.
Travel in the early days by boat, horseback or stage required stopping places for man and beast. In consequence settlements were established on river banks, in foothills, in valleys and on the plains where necessity required rest and refreshment for the travelers. These natural stopping places be- came commercial centers that developed into towns and cities. Trading posts, as some of the centers were called, attracted a thrifty class of people. Prosperous merchants, through their desire for better conditions of living, brought together various classes of tradespeople and mechanics, and in this manner progressive communities were formed.
Kansas City, of all the great inland cities of America, is the most fortu- nately situated. A river, having a carrying capacity equal to one hundred railroads, flows past its port in an endless stream. For her tributary ter-
20
HISTORY OF KANSAS CITY
ritory Kansas City has the great Southwest, an exceedingly fertile region. The center of the national domain, as demonstrated by William Gilpin in his discussion of "The Cosmopolitan Railway," is one hundred and twenty miles west of Kansas City. The author and philosopher discovered these interesting facts :
" If from a point where the junction of several small streams forms the Kansas river, 120 miles due west from the Missouri as a center, a circle be described touching the boundary line of 49 as a tangent. the opposite circumference of the circle will pass through the seaport of Matagorda, in Texas, through New Orleans and Mobile. This point is, therefore, the cen- tre between the northern and southern boundaries of our country. If from the same center a larger cirele be described, it will pass through San Fran- cisco, and through Vancouver City, on the Columbia, grazing almost the en- tire coast between them. The same circle will pass through Quebec and Bos- ton on the Atlantic, through Havana on the Gulf, and through the city of Mexico. The same point is then the center between the oceans.
"Thus at the forks of the Kansas river a point exists, in latitude 38° 45', and longitude 97° west of Greenwich, which is the geographical center- north and south, east and west-not only of the Mississippi basin, but of our entire national domain."
In the early days of Kansas City, the Missouri river and its tributaries drew from the mountains, hills and plains the riches supplied by nature for the use of the pioneers of commerce. From the distant regions of the Rocky mountains, where outposts had been established, down the treacherous waters of the Missouri, came small craft laden with furs to be sold to trad- ers at the Kaw's mouth. The fearless boatmen in the employ of the fur traders were the tentacles that reached out into the wilderness and brought forth its riches. To these traders, hunters, trappers and boatmen, Kansas City owes its beginning. The shrewd commercial instincts of the early pioneers led them to realize the geographical value of the site at the con- fluence of the Missouri and Kaw rivers as a location for a trading center.
The importance of the fur trade as a factor in the colonization of the great West. must be appreciated to understand the beginning and develop- ment of Kansas City. To the Spanish explorer the gold and other precious metals of the South country brought reward, but no less profitable was the traffic in furs carried on by the early French settlers and English adven- turers.
From Louisiana up the Mississippi river came hunters and trappers in the employ of the trading firm whose junior partner was Pierre Laclede Liguest, known as Laclede, this company having, in 1762. obtained from the Governor-general of Louisiana exclusive control of the trade with the
--
INDIAN BULLBOAT.
ـز
23
HISTORY OF KANSAS CITY
Indian tribes as far north as St. Peter's river. The fur trade extended from New York to Montreal, through Canada into the Northwest.
The Louisiana Purchase in 1803 opened a new and wonderfully rich territory for the traffic of pelts. Transportation was afforded by means of Indian canoes, keelboats and other small river craft. The new acquisition included the great water shed of the Missouri river and a large part of the Western country. It was known throughout the Lewis and Clark expedition that this wilderness abounded in fur-producing animals.
John Jacob Astor was not slow to perceive the possibilities of the fur trade in the new territory. He organized the American Fur company in 1808 in New York, and established the Pacific Fur company in 1810. The fur trade along the Missouri river, however, was largely controlled by the Chouteaus. Chouteau is a name familiar in the annals of the West. The members of this French family were noted for their business foresight and their ability to deal successfully with the Indians. Auguste Chouteau, head of the family and one of the founders of St. Louis, was born in New Orleans, August 14, 1750. His brother, Pierre, with whom he was associated in the development of the fur trade in the Missouri river valley, was six years younger. With St. Louis as the base of operations, the Chouteaus extended their fur traffic west to the Kaw river and into the wilderness beyond.
Increase in the volume of fur trade and the demand for more sys- tematic business methods led the Chouteaus and several associates to organ- ize the Missouri Fur company in 1808. After several years of intense rivalry between this company and the American Fur company, the two firms were merged in 1813.
In an effort to monopolize the fur trade of the West, in 1821 the Amer- ican Fur Company sent Francois Chouteau, son of Pierre Chouteau, into this territory to establish new trading posts and to bring independent fur traders into subordination to the larger firm. A location was desired that would be accessible to the greatest number of trading points reached by river craft and by overland transportation. With the good judgment that characterized the Chouteaus, Francois discerned that a position near the junction of the Missouri and Kaw rivers would be the most desirable and he chose a site in the Missouri river bottom, opposite Randolph bluffs, about three miles down stream from Kansas City. He brought with him about thirty active men, couriers as the French called them, with whom he was able to concentrate at the central depot the trade of the Tran-Mississippi country. The family of Francois Chouteau came from St. Louis in canoes and pirogues, the journey requiring twenty days. Francois Chouteau's younger brother, Cyprian, came to the central agency in the following year and established a trading post on the north bank of the Kaw river near the site of Bonner Springs, and the post became known
24
HISTORY OF KANSAS CITY
as "Four Houses." It derived this name from the fact that the defense con- sisted of four log houses arranged so as to inclose a square court.
Misfortune came to Francois Chouteau in 1826 when a flood in the Missouri river washed away his warehouse. The merchandise and peltry saved from the flood were taken to the "Four Houses" post on the Kaw river. Later Chouteau rebuilt his warehouse farther up the Missouri river on higher ground, included afterwards in Guinotte's addition to Kansas City. This second station was the celebrated "Chouteau's warehouse" of the early traders. Francois Chouteau subsequently entered the land upon which his warehouse stood and he lived there until his death in 1840. Again, in 1844, a flood destroyed Chouteau's warehouse. The family then gave up fur trading and. engaged in other business.
Descendants of some of the Frenchmen who had been followers of Laclede and others of the same class living in the wilderness joined the Chouteaus at the mouth of the Kaw, shortly after the flood of 1826, and formed a settlement of several dozen families. The French traders were a people of peculiar traits. Thy possessed mild vivacity and gaiety and were distinguished for their inoffensive dispositions and their frugal, enterprising habits. The French settlement never was large, but for twenty-five years it was the center of an immense trade.
With an expedition of the American Fur company, in 1815, came Monsieur Jacques Fournais, known as "Old Pino," one of the earliest of the pioneer trappers and hunters. When he arrived in this locality the bluffs crowned by the two Kansas Citys were the haunts of many wild animals of the smaller class. "Old Pino" was a trapper in the Southwest sixty years and after he became too old to follow a life of such hardship, he came to the vicinity of Kansas City and lived almost thirty years at the home of William Mulkey, where he died, July 17, 1871, at the reputed age of 124 years.
The life of the old huntsman overlapped our country's four wars: the Revolution, War of 1812, Mexican war and Civil war. He remembered in- cidents of the Revolution and he was a soldier under General Jackson in New Orleans in the War of 1812. "Old Pino" lived long enough to see the first railroad train that came to Kansas City, and he regarded it as the great event of his life.
Another celebrated pioneer in the same class with "Old Pino" was James Bridger, hunter, fur trader, explorer, guide, Indian fighter. He was born in Virginia, March 17, 1804. When Bridger was ten years old, his father and mother having died, he began earning a living for himself and his sister by operating a flatboat at St. Louis. Stories that came from the frontier stirred the lad and when he was eighteen years old he joined a party of trappers and went to the West. After a life of thrilling adventure
A
JAMES BRIDGER.
27
HISTORY OF KANSAS CITY
that covered a period of twenty-five years, Bridger settled on a tract of land near New Santa Fe in Jackson county, Southeast of Kansas City. It was the old scout's custom to spend the summers on the plains and the winters at home. He died at his home, July 17, 1881.
Bridger's reputation rested on the extraordinary part he had in the ex- ploration of the West. Following is the record of his achievements, as given on his monument in Mount Washington cemetery in Kansas City :
Discovered the Great Salt lake in 1824; the South pass in 1827; vis- ited Yellowstone lake and the geysers in 1830; founded Fort Bridger in 1843; opened the overland route by Bridger's pass to the Great Salt lake; a guide for the United States exploring expeditions, Albert Sidney John- son's army in 1857, G. M. Dodge in the Union Pacific railroad survey and the Indian campaigns of 1865-66.
The immensity of the fur trade finally called for greater facilities for transportation and steamboat navigation had its beginning. To the Inde- pendence-John Nelson, captain-belongs the honor of making the first steamboat voyage up the Missouri river. Leaving St. Louis, May 15, 1819, the packet came as far as the mouth of the Chariton river, near Glas- gow, Missouri. The boat stopped at Franklin in Howard county, May 28, on the up-trip and the officers were given a heartyy reception and a dinner. The Independence returned to St. Louis, June 15, 1819.
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