USA > New Hampshire > Carroll County > Wolfeborough > History of Wolfeborough (New Hampshire) > Part 3
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N the foregoing pages it has been the purpose to show where Wolfeborough is-to tell of its boundaries, its additions, and its subdivisions ; in those which immediately follow it will be the endeavor to show what it is-to describe somewhat its mountains, hills, plains, valleys, and islands ; its lakes, ponds, and streams.
Within the territory of Wolfeborough are included several bays, that set in from Lake Winnipesaukee. The most important of these is that which lies south of the principal village. It has an area of about five hundred acres, and is partially shut in from the broad of the lake by islands, which renders it a very safe har- bor. Farther inland is a smaller bay that extends to the foot of the falls on Smith's River. The two are connected by a narrow strait, which is a continuation of Smith's River. Another bay sets in towards South Wolfeborough village, and still an- other towards Wolfeborough Neck. A large bay, formed by the projections of the two peninsulas, Wolfeborough Neck and Tuftonborough Neck, lies partly within the town. The por- tion of this bay within the limits of Wolfeborough is called "Winter Harbor." It was so named because a loaded boat,
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HISTORY OF WOLFEBOROUGH.
destined for Moultonborough, was forced to seek shelter here, was frozen in, and remained during the winter.
In the south central part of the town lies a body of water nearly four miles long and three miles wide, formerly known as Smith's Pond, but now called Lake Wentworth. Smith's River, which connects Smith's Pond with Lake Winnipesaukee, and Smith's Bridge, the part of Wolfeborough village situated near the out- let of Smith's River, derive their names from the same source, and are supposed to have been thus called from an English hun- ter named Smith, who visited this region. Nothing is now known of his history. The story may be wholly legendary. It is, how- ever, certain that the town proprietors applied the name "Smith" to the pond and the river before there were any inhabitants in the town. Still it has been deemed proper to change the name of the pond, or lake, to that of the town's most distinguished early patron, who was at one time the possessor of a large por- tion of its shore-line.
The lake is somewhat oval in shape and has an area of 3094 acres. It has twenty islands, the most important of which are situated in the central part of the lake. The largest was called Mill Island by the proprietors of the town, probably because it was granted to the builders of the first mills. Subsequently, it received the name of Stamp Act, which it still retains. Why it was thus called is not known. The town proprietors first granted the land with other property to George Meserve as a consideration for his building mills at the falls on Smith's River within a definite time. He did not fully comply with the con- ditions of the agreement, and the island reverted to the original owners. In 1765, Meserve was appointed distributor of stamps for New Hampshire, but the hostility of the people to the odious Stamp Act was so great that he immediately resigned the office on arriving at the province. It is difficult to see how this affair should have had anything to do with the name of the island. The name not being euphonic, and to the present generation
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apparently meaningless, should be changed. Perhaps it would not be amiss to restore the original name.
The island was covered with the usual forest trees, some of them lofty pines. Here, from the recollection of the oldest in- habitant until a recent date, when the trees were felled, was a heronry. The area of the island is ninety acres. At its east end is a point of land called East Cape ; south of this is a sandy recess in the shore named Big Cove.
North of Stamp Act Island and nearer the shore of the lake, is Triggs's Island, containing twenty acres of land. It takes its name from Thomas Triggs, its original owner, in the posses- sion of whose family it remained until the decease of its last member, which occurred a few years since.
Farther east, and north of Stamp Act, is the Mink group, con- sisting of three islands, the largest of which contains three acres of land. West of Stamp Act, is a cluster of seven islands called "The Sisters." The largest one contains five acres and the next in size, three; the others are small. Most of this group are occupied in the summer by cottagers. Near the easterly shore of the lake is Turtle Island, the area of which is about three acres. A causeway from it to the mainland is partially built. This is supposed to have been constructed by Governor Wentworth. About a half-mile from the southerly shore of the lake is an island-rock, about forty feet long and thirty feet wide, called the Governor's Rock, or Tea Rock. Near the west shore of the lake is another similar rock, named Gull Rock, where a gull was formerly accustomed to breed its young. Near the north- western shore of the lake is a small island known as Goose Island. Between Stamp Act and the southern shore of the lake are two islands. One of them, containing about one acre of land, was formerly called Townsend's Island. It is now known as Bass Island. The other, situated east of this, is smaller, and has no name.
South of Stamp Act are several huge boulders, which, lying
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HISTORY OF WOLFEBOROUGH.
on a sandy bottom, rise above the surface of the water. Near these a very fine echo may be heard. The shores of the lake are generally low. There are several beautiful beaches and excellent natural meadows. Several of the latter border the streams that flow into the lake. They were utilized somewhat in the early settlement of the town, before the forests were cleared, for fur- nishing hay. The principal meadows are on the northeastern and southwestern shores of the lake. From Moose Point on the western shore, a sand beach extends for several miles. Near the outlet of the Warren Brook, east of the lake, is a large deposit of alluvium known as the "Sands." A little north of this is the only point where land much elevated borders the lake. Here, Mount Delight reaches the shore, and near here, is the greatest depth of water in the lake, which is generally shoal. Farther on, toward the south, are Townsend's Sands, Oak Bluff, Rocky Point, Point Breeze, Profile Rock, and Cate's Sands.
Ten streams flow into the lake. They are the Harvey, Hersey, Fernald, Clay Pit, Rye Field, Warren, Townsend, Red, and Heath Brooks, and Willey's Mill Stream. Harvey Brook flows from the west. Some seventy years ago, William Kent built on it a saw- mill, which was afterwards removed to the upper falls on Smith's River. The brook now furnishes motive power for the ma- chinery of a carpenter's shop. It rises in meadow-land formerly belonging to George Meserve, one of the original town pro- prietors ; hence probably came its name, as, in olden times, Har- vey and Meserve were names sometimes used interchangeably. A little north of Harvey, is Hersey Brook, the outlet of Lily (for- merly Sargeant's) Pond. It has a course of two miles, with a descent of about one hundred feet. Nearly a century ago there was a grist-mill on it, owned by John Lucas. This was situated near the present highway. About 1820 William Kent and James Hersey erected a sawmill farther up the stream. This was after- ward rebuilt by George W. Hersey. None of these mills are now standing. Still farther north, is Fernald's, in early times called
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HISTORY OF WOLFEBOROUGH.
Rattle Snake Brook. There were once on it a tannery and a shingle-mill.
Northeast of this, is the most important stream that flows into Lake Wentworth. It is formed by the confluence of the outlet of Batson's Pond, the Seavey Brook and other small streams. For- merly its water was used as motive power at several different localities ; now it only turns the machinery at V. B. Willey's saw- mill. It is called Willey's Mill Stream. On this stream were once a tannery and brick-yard on the road from North Wolfe- borough to Water Village, a sawmill and a grist-mill on that now leading from Wolfeborough Center to Ossipee, and a small tur- ner's shop on the road from Center Wolfeborough to North Wolfeborough. 1137035
Farther east is Clay Pit Brook, so called because clay has been dug from its borders. It runs through a large meadow, and in early times, a small grist-mill stood on its banks. Still farther east, is Rye Field Brook, one branch of which has its rise in Cot- ton Mountain. On its banks may still be seen evidences of the existence of a sawmill, which is supposed to have been built by Governor Wentworth. At the "Sands" flows in the Warren Brook, which has its source in Brookfield, and flows through extensive meadows. It bears the name of a family once living on its banks, in which were reared to adult age twenty-one children. Farther south is Townsend Brook, so called on account of its flowing through the farm formerly owned by Isaac Townsend, the first minister ordained in Wolfeborough. Still farther south is an- other small stream, called Red Brook. Its waters are colored either by absorption from the roots of shrubs growing in it, or by percolation through mineralized earth. Next in order is the South Branch, or Heath Brook. It has its rise in New Durham, where on its banks was once a grist-mill. It flows sluggishly through extensive meadows, its outlet being on the southern shore of Lake Wentworth.
At least thirty square miles of territory are drained by the
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HISTORY OF WOLFEBOROUGH.
tributaries of Lake Wentworth. A considerable portion of its volume of water is probably furnished by springs hidden in its bed. Most of the sources of the streams flowing into it are at some distance from its shore; hence there are very seldom sud- den overflows of water, and the lake is comparatively free from the effects of droughts or freshets. As a reservoir it is remarkably uniform in its supply of water.
The outlet of Lake Wentworth is Smith's River on its western shore. For about one-third of a mile this is a narrow stream. It then broadens into several irregular shaped bays, and takes the name of Crooked Pond. This is about one mile long. It has one small island called Loon Island. One of its bays is named Porcupine Cove. The river narrows again a little above its fall, which is twenty-eight feet, and running about one-fourth of a mile, flows into the inner bay that extends to Smith's Bridge. Into this bay flow two small streams, one of which is called Var- ney's Brook because of its running through the premises of the Joseph Varney family. On this many years ago was a small bark- mill. The other stream was utilized for some years by Hiram Ham, a manufacturer of lumber.
The scenic views from Lake Wentworth are very attractive. Toward the southeast lies Pleasant Valley, its acclivities gradually rising towards Mount Dick in Brookfield and the towering Copple Crown in New Durham. . A depressed line of hills continues until Long Stack, partly in Wolfeborough, is reached, while farther on, toward the south, and then toward the west, appear the moun- tains of Alton, Gilmanton, and Gilford, including the Belknap range with its numerous peaks. Toward the north is seen the dark browed Ossipee, more distant, the rugged Chocorua, and still farther on, encircled by its lofty neighbors, the hoary head of that monarch of New Hampshire mounts-Washington. With- in the limits of Wolfeborough, and in a narrower circle, the eye of the observer beholds Garland Heights, Center Square, Stock-
THE POND ROAD
RUST POND AND COPPLE CROWN
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HISTORY OF WOLFEBOROUGH.
bridge, Beacham, Moody, Batson, Trask, Whiteface, and Cotton Mountains, Martin's Hill and Mount Delight.
Rust's Pond is situated in the southerly part of Wolfeborough. The town proprietors named it Middle Pond, it being located be- tween Lake Wentworth and Lake Winnipesaukee and not far from either of them. (Both the lakes were then termed ponds.) Henry Rust, a town proprietor, afterwards came into possession of the lot in which the greater part of the pond lies, and it took his name. It is of an oval shape, and has an area of perhaps a hundred acres. Its principal tributary is Perry's Brook, which takes its rise in New Durham and runs through a farm once owned by Jolın Perry. A small brook near its northern shore is called Deland's Brook. The water of Rust's Pond flows into Lake Winnipesaukee by a stream, which in a distance of one-third of a mile falls seventy feet, furnishing an excellent mill privilege. As the traveler from Wolfeborough village to South Wolfe- borough passes over the brow of the Brewster Ridge, there sud- denly bursts upon his sight the lakelet, cradled in the little valley that extends nearly to the base of the diminutive Pierce mountain -a landscape picture of surpassing loveliness.
Mirror Lake lies mostly within the limits of Tuftonborough. It was first known as Livius's Pond, taking its name from Peter Livius, a member of Governor John Wentworth's council. Through his agents Livius commenced farming operations on the western shore of the pond. There he dug a channel, by which he purposed to drain the pond, and convert it into a grass meadow. This channel still exists. He erected a house, the cellar of which can still be seen, and employed a large number of laborers under an overseer who is said to have had a seat on the top of a stump twenty feet high, where he could overlook his gang of workmen. The scheme for an artificial meadow proved a failure, either be- cause of the unsuitable character of the soil, or Livius's enforced departure from the province of New Hampshire. Being a royalist, he retired to Canada, where he obtained a government office. In
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the dark days of the Revoluntionary War he wrote to General Sullivan and vainly sought to induce him toabandon the American cause. The name Livius was contracted to Levis, and by that name the pond was known until a family named Lang settled on its eastern shore. It then took the name of that family, and re- tained it until a few years ago, when a post-office was established in the vicinity. Since then it has been called Mirror Lake. It is a beautiful sheet of water, and its present name is both appropri- ate and euphonic and will doubtless be abiding. Tradition says, and no doubt speaks truly, that the outlet of the pond was origi- nally at the "Narrows." Since the time of Livius the water has flowed through the artificial channel.
Beech Pond, which is supposed to have taken its name from the beech forests that formerly grew on its borders-although it is not certain that its name did not arise from its fine sand beaches, and that it should not have been called Beach Pond-is a superior reservoir of very pure water which furnishes an abundant supply for Wolfeborough village, distant three and a half miles from it, and situated four hundred feet below it. (The exact fall of the water to the level of Lake Winnipesaukee is four hundred and seventy-five feet.) The pond is evidently fed by springs whose fountains are hidden in the lofty hills that border its eastern shore, as only one small stream flows into it. Its area is three hundred acres. Its surplus water flows through a short channel into Lower Beech Pond, and eventually reaches the Saco River in Maine. On the western shore of the pond is a natural embankment of earth about one hundred rods long and one hun- dred feet high. A narrow valley extends to its base, from which issues a spring whose water is supposed to possess medicinal prop- erties. Many years ago it was a popular resort for invalids. This water is supposed to pass through mineralized earth from the pond above. The spring is one of the sources of Nineteen Mile Brook which empties into Lake Winnipesaukee. If the foregoing hypoth- esis is correct, the water of Beech Pond reaches the ocean by
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HISTORY OF WOLFEBOROUGH.
two outlets, the Saco River in Maine and the Merrimac in Massa- chusetts. There are very few inhabitants dwelling in the neigh- borhood of this pond, and the drainage of farm buildings and fre- quented highways does not contaminate its water. It is sur- rounded by pasture and woodland.
Lily Pond is situated northwest of Center Square. It is circu- lar in form, and has an area of nearly two hundred acres. Border- ing on it are some cranberry meadows, but no fine beaches. On its muddy bottom grow many aquatic plants, among them a profusion of water-lilies, which in their season cover the surface of the pond with a mantle of white. Until within a few years this body of water was called Sargeant's Pond from the name of the town proprietor within the limits of whose lot it lay. Two brooks flow into the pond; the larger, Hill's Brook, from the east; the other, Hyde's Brook, which is quite small, from the north. Its outlet is Hersey Brook, a stream about two miles long, which flows into Lake Wentworth.
Batson's Pond, which derives its name from an original pro- prietor of the Addition, is situated in the northerly part of the town near Ossipee line. It is circular in form, and has an extent of about twenty acres. Its water flows southerly for several miles and is then discharged into Lake Wentworth. Hidden behind Batson's Mountain, and at some distance from a public highway, it has probably never been seen by one in twenty of the inhabi- tants of Wolfeborough.
There are two brooks that flow directly into Lake Winnipesau- kee. One is a small stream in the westerly part of the town known as Meserve Brook. It rises in land formerly owned by George Meserve, a town proprietor. The other enters the lake near South Wolfeborough village. It is called Rust's Brook.
The surface of the town of Wolfeborough is generally uneven. It has several fine ridges of land with moderately sloping sides. Among these may be noticed the two which are near the Bridge village, one rising from the level of the lake toward the north and
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HISTORY OF WOLFEBOROUGH.
the other toward the south, also the background of Pleasant Val- ley in the southeast, a portion of the Governor Wentworth farm still farther east, and Garland Heights. Bickford's Ridge, in the north, is perhaps as marked as any. It is certainly nearer the clouds than the others. Much of the town's surface, however, consists of irregular hills, of moderate size, and narrow valleys. In the north it is mountainous ; yet the peaks are so iow that they are generally utilized by the farmers. The most noted elevations are those which will now be described.
Center Square is noticeable only on account of its location, it being situated near the center of the original township of Wolfe- borough. Stockbridge Mountain, so called from a farmer former- ly dwelling at its base, is a solitary peak, mostly denuded of trees, situated in the westerly part of the Masonian division of the town. It affords a very fine view of the Winnipesaukee lake region. East of this mountain is a chain of high hills sometimes termed the "Alps of Wolfeborough." It includes Beacham and Moodey Mountains, some of whose peaks are twelve hundred feet above the ocean. East of this range, is Batson's Mountain with an alti- tude of one thousand feet. About one and one-half miles, as the bird flies, southeast of Batson's is Trask's Mountain, so named from a family that lived on its eastern side. Between these two mountains is a deep, narrow valley, through which runs the road leading from Wolfeborough to Ossipee. About two miles in an easterly direction, Whiteface rears its head to an elevation of twelve hundred feet, just equalling the height of Trask's. A precipice several hundred feet high on its eastern side gives the mountain its name. Trask's and Whiteface, like Batson's, are within the limits of the Addition.
About two miles southeast of Whiteface is Cotton Mountain, which is so called from a group of families of that name that have for many years dwelt on its sides and in the adjacent valleys. Its first name was Cutter's Mountain, it being included within the limits of the lot, which in the division of the town fell to Dr. A. R.
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HISTORY OF WOLFEBOROUGH.
Cutter. The height of this mountain is only fifty feet less than that of Whiteface. It is the most southerly of the four distinct ele- vations of land about equal in height and nearly equi-distant from each other that are situated in an almost direct line on the north- east side of Wolfeborough.
The water which flows down the north side of this mountain reaches the ocean by Saco River, that from the east side makes its way to the Piscataqua, while that from the west side forms a tributary to Lake Wentworth, and eventually arrives at the Mer- rimac. Thus the rain, which falls within a circle whose diameter is about a half mile, reaches the ocean by three distinct rivers that open into it from three different states; viz., the Saco in Maine, the Piscataqua in New Hampshire, and the Merrimac in Massa- chusetts.
The points from which fine landscape views may be obtained are numerous in Wolfeborough. Perhaps that from Trask's Mountain, the top of which can be easily reached with carriages, is of greater extent than any other in the town. Here, in almost every direction, rise isolated peaks, or chains of mountains of ever-varying contour, while the valleys are diversified with lakes and streams, that, glistening in the sunlight, form a striking con- trast to the dark shades of the forest-clad hills. In the north, is seen the Kearsarge of Bartlett; in the west, the Kearsarge of Warner. Alike in name, they resemble each other in aspect. From Mount Dick, situated in Brookfield, a little outside the limits of Wolfeborough, can be obtained a bird's-eye view of the town and the Winnipesaukee Lake region that furnishes a panorama of surpassing loveliness. Copple Crown, eighteen hun- dred feet high, although within the limits of New Durham, is yet, on account of its proximity to Wolfeborough, a striking feature in its scenery .
Wolfeborough is not rich in minerals. Small quantities of bog- iron have been found on the northern shore of Lake Wentworth. A chalky earth has been obtained on Stamp Act Island. Crystals
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HISTORY OF WOLFEBOROUGH.
of quartz and garnets are sometimes found. Coarse granite abounds. There are deposits of clay in different localities. A con- siderable part of the principal village is built over a substratum of this earth.
The soil of Wolfeborough is varied, but generally fertile, readily producing Indian corn, wheat, and other small grains ; grass both for hay and pasturage ; also potatoes and such vegetables as are adapted to a northern climate in great perfection. Pears do fairly well; apples extraordinarily so. Plums and cherries are with difficulty raised, not so much on account of defects in the soil and climate as the prevalence of harmful insects.
The primitive forests of Wolfeborough were diversified. White pine prevailed in the central and southwestern portion of the town. One locality is still called "Pine Hill." Hemlock, beech, maple, oak, and other hard woods were to be found in all parts of the town. Masts cut in the vicinity of Lake Wentworth were floated across that body of water and down the upper section of Smith's River to a cove situated in Wolfeborough Falls, still called "Mast Landing."
Little is known of the history of the aborigines who made their homes on the territory now included within the limits of Wolfe- borough and other lake towns. That the shores of Winnipesau- kee were to the denizens of the forest a desirable abode or a fre- quent resort, is not to be doubted. Here they could easily obtain an abundance of peltry and foods. Sometimes, when they had been on marauding expeditions to the settlements on the sea- coast, they had been pursued to Lake Winnipesaukee. On its shores the English built a fort and stationed a garrison of scouts to protect the frontier towns. The Indians which dwelt in this region are supposed to have been subject to the Penacook tribe, whose headquarters were on the Merrimac River, where the city of Concord now stands. The chief of the Penacooks governed all the tribes on that river and its tributaries. Indian relics, such as axes, chisels, and other stone tools, have been found on the
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borders of streams and ponds of Wolfeborough. Many years ago a stone hearth and several caches were discovered on the southern shore of Lake Wentworth. Within the limits of Pine Hill ceme- tery there was, when Wolfeborough was first settled, a cleared spot of ground called the "Indian Dance."
CHAPTER IV.
NOTICE OF PROPRIETORS' MEETING-FORM OF CONTRACT-NOTE TO JOSIAH MILES-MARCH'S CONTRACT-TITLES TO PRO- PRIETORS' LOTS-RUST'S DEED AND A DESCRIPTION OF HIS LOT-DESCRIPTION OF SUNDRY LOTS-GEORGE MESERVE'S CONTRACT TO ERECT MILLS-LIVIUS' PROPOSITION-ME- SERVE'S FAILURE AND THE NEW CONTRACT-LANDS FOR- FEITED BY A FEW PROPRIETORS AND RE-GRANTED TO GOV- ERNOR WENTWORTH-BLAKE AND LIBBEY FELL TREES- RUSTIC SURGERY-TOWN PERMANENTLY SETTLED IN 1768 -EARLIER VISITORS IN THE TOWN.
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